INDEX
| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Y |
A
Aasleagh Falls: 444–445
Abbeys and monasteries: about, 216; Cong Abbey, 436–437; Ennis Friary, 382–383; Glendalough, 172–176; Hore Abbey, 229; Jerpoint Abbey, 215–217; Kells Priory, 217–218; Monasterboice, 161; Old Mellifont Abbey, 160; Reasc Monastery, 350–351
Abbey Theatre (Dublin): 120
Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Act of Union (1801): 61, 103, 104, 159, 210, 448, 609
Aer Arann Islands: 413
Afternoon tea: Belfast, 592; Dublin, 136
Aillwee Burren Experience: 378
Aircoach (Dublin): 140
Air-conditioning, in hotels: 662
Airfares (airlines): 23, 25, 141, 693–694
Airports: 694; Aran Islands, 413–414; Belfast, 594; Cork, 253; Dublin, 140, 143–144; Kerry, 308, 359; Shannon, 386; VAT refunds, 653
Albert Memorial Clock Tower (Belfast): 554, 558
Almanac: Northern Ireland, 480; Republic of Ireland, 33
Ancestors, tracing: See Genealogical research
Ancient stone circles: about, 622. See also Archaeological sites
An Daingean Peninsula: See Dingle Peninsula
An Daingean Town: See Dingle Town
An Earagail: 468–469
Anglo-Irish Treaty (1921): 57, 67, 610, 626
Ann Street (Belfast): 554
An Plassy (shipwreck): 430–431
Antrim Coast: 17, 513–535; eating, 516–517; map, 514–515; planning tips, 513–515; sights, 517–527; sleeping, 527–528; transportation, 515–516. See also Portrush
Antrim Mountains and Glens: 526–527
Apartment rentals: 24, 664–668
Apple Market (Waterford): 214
Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall (Derry): 491
Apps: 26, 675; maps and navigation, 654, 688; messaging, 675; payment, 26, 650; sightseeing, 656; user reviews, 665
Aquariums: Dingle, 311, 322–323; Salthill, 402
Aran Dive Academy: 419
Aran Islands: 16, 409–431; ferries, 368–369, 412–413; map, 410; planning tips, 410–411; tours, 393–394, 411, 417–418; transportation, 412–414. See also Inisheer Island; Inishmore Island
Aran Off-Road Experience: 418
Archaeological sites: overview, 622, 628; Caherconnell Ring Fort, 376; Cahergal Ring Fort, 290, 300; Dun Aengus (Inishmore), 410, 419–420, 422; Dunbeg Fort, 345; Gallarus Oratory, 351–352; Grianan Aileach Ring Fort, 462–464, 512; Hill of Tara, 83, 162–163; Kenmare Stone Circle, 280–281, 602; Knowth, 155–156; Leacanabuaile Ring Fort, 300; Newgrange, 156–157; Poulnabrone Dolmen, 376–377; Rock of Cashel, 223–231; Slea Head Ring Fort, 345; Staigue Fort, 287, 290, 292; Staigue Ring Fort, 287, 290, 292
Ardagh Chalice: 85
Arkin Fort (Inishmore): 424
Art: history timeline, 630–631; overview, 628–629, 632. See also specific art museums and artists
Atlantaquaria Aquarium (Salthill): 402
ATMs: 648–652. See also specific destinations
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 695–696
August Festival (Bangor): 597
Aviva Stadium (Dublin): 143
B
Ballinskelligs: 295
Ballinspittle: 458
Ballintoy Harbor: 524
Ballybur Castle: 667
Ballyferriter Museum: 350
Ballyhack: 222
Ballyportry Castle: 667
Ballyvaughan: 372–373, 375, 378
Ballyvourney: 263
B&Bs: See Bed-and-breakfasts
Bangor: 595–600; eating, 600; map, 596; sights/activities, 597–599; sleeping, 599–600; tourist information, 597; transportation, 596–597
Bangor Aurora Leisure Centre: 597
Bangor Castle: 597
Bangor Coastal Path: 598
Bangor Court House: 598
Bangor Open House Festival: 597
Bank Bar (Dublin): 63
Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 26. See also Money; and specific destinations
Banquet, at Dunguaire Castle: 379, 407
Banshees of Inisherin, The (movie): 455, 700
Barnacle, Nora: 104, 105, 106, 147, 397; House (Galway), 397
Barronstrand Street (Waterford): 205, 213
Barry, Kevin: 117
Battle of Kinsale: 246–247, 248, 492, 621
Battle of the Boyne (1690): 150, 157–160, 160, 490, 501, 608–609, 623; battle site, 157–158, 160
Beaches: Bangor, 598; Carroll’s Cove, 292; Dun Laoghaire, 146; Inch Strand (Dingle), 327; Inishmore, 422; Keem, 455; Portrush, 530–531; St. Finian’s Bay, 296; Salthill, 401–402; Ventry, 343–344
Beaghmore Stone Circle: 622
Beal na Blath: 262–263
Beara Peninsula: 282–283, 292; boating, 281; map, 283
Beatty (Chester) Library (Dublin): 46, 64, 92–94, 134–135
Beckett Bridge (Dublin): 107
Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs): overview, 661–663. See also specific destinations
Beehive huts (clochans): 296, 303, 310, 344, 346–347
Beer: 671, 674; Guinness Storehouse (Dublin), 47, 111–113; Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny, 197. See also Pubs
Behan, Brendan: 633
Belfast: 17, 536–595; at a glance, 546–547; arrival in, 539–540; eating, 590–593; excursion areas, 595–606; helpful hints, 541; history of, 540, 610; layout of, 538–539; maps, 537, 542–543, 550–551, 559, 570, 581, 588–589; nightlife, 584–586; orientation, 538–539; planning tips, 537–538; shopping, 541; sights, 563–584; sleeping, 586–590; tourist information, 539; tours, 544–547, 572–579; transportation, 539–540, 541, 544, 593–595; walking tours, 547–563
Belfast Botanic Gardens: 580
Belfast Cathedral: 556–557
Belfast City Hall: 546, 552–553; eating near, 590–592
Belfast Giants: 560
Belfast Grand Opera House: 549, 584
Belfast Harbor Marina: 561
Belfast Hidden Tours: 545
Belfast International Airport: 594
Belfast Sectarian Neighborhoods: 538, 540, 544, 546, 568–579, 614; overview, 569; sights, 572–579; tours, 570–572
Belfast Story: 584–585
Belfast Traditional Music Trail: 585
Belfast Visitor Pass: 541
Belleek Pottery Visitors Centre: 473–474
Beltany Stone Circle: 622
Belt Shrine: 85
Benner’s Hotel (Dingle): 314, 330
Bewley’s Oriental Café (Dublin): 57–58, 134
Biking (bike rentals): Belfast, 547; Dingle Peninsula, 310, 324, 341–342; Dublin, 42, 50; Galway, 393; Inisheer, 427; Inishmore, 418, 419; Kenmare, 278; Kilkenny, 188; Kinsale, 236–237; Rathlin Island, 526; Westport, 450–451, 452
Birds and bird-watching: 303, 365, 605; Burren Birds of Prey Centre, 378; Cliffs of Moher, 365, 368; Rathlin Island Seabird Centre, 526. See also Falconry
Birkenhead: ferries, 594
Bishop’s Gate (Derry): 494
Bishop’s Palace (Waterford): 211
Black Abbey (Kilkenny): 192
Black Fort (Inishmore): 424
Black Valley: 275
Blackwater Bridge: 291
Blarney Stone and Castle: 261–262
Blasket Island Ferry: 325, 355
Blasket Islands: 347–349, 353–356; ferries, 325, 355; sleeping, 356
Blennerville Windmill (Tralee): 357–358
Blessing of the Boats (Dingle): 308–309, 698
Bloody Foreland: 469
Bloody Sunday (1972): 488, 493, 494, 500–503, 613, 614, 627; Monument (Derry), 498, 500; overview, 499
Bloomsday (Dublin): 42, 59, 698
Blue Coat School (Derry): 491
Boating: Bangor, 598; Kenmare, 281. See also Kayaking
Boat travel and cruises: Belfast, 595; Blasket Islands, 311, 355; Cliffs of Moher, 368–369; Dingle, 324–325; Doolin, 368–369; Dun Laoghaire, 144–145; Garnish Island, 282; Kinsale, 237, 240; map, 680–681; Skellig Michael, 302. See also Ferries
Bobbin Café (Belfast): 553, 591–592
Boer War: 51
Bogs: 442–443
Bogside Murals (Derry): 495–503; guided tours, 489; map, 496
Bollard’s Bar (Kilkenny): 201
Bombay Street (Belfast): 574, 613, 614
Book of Kells (Dublin): 46, 59–60, 77–81, 620, 628–629
Books, recommended: 699–700
Bookstores: Dublin, 119. See also specific destinations
Bord Gáis Energy Theatre (Dublin): 120
Boyne Valley: 150–163; map, 151; planning tips, 151; transportation, 151–153. See also Trim
Braveheart (movie): 165, 166, 167, 177
Brazen Head, the (Dublin): 122
Breakfast: overview, 670. See also “Irish fry” breakfast
Bregagh Road: 526
Brian Ború: 381
Brian Ború harp: 80–81
Bridge End: 462
Bridge Street (Westport): 451, 452–453
Bridget, Saint: 366–367
British pound: 650
Broighter Hoard: 85
Browne Doorway (Galway): 395
Bru Boru Cultural Centre (Rock of Cashel): 232
Brú na Bóinne: 152–157; background, 153–155; map, 153; tours, 151–152, 153; transportation, 152–153; Visitors Center Exhibition, 155
Budgeting: 23. See also Money-saving tips
Bulman Bar (Summercove): 248, 252–253
Bunbeg: 469
Bunratty Castle and Folk Park: 363
Burial mounds: See Archaeological sites
Burren, the: 16, 371–379; botany of, 377; driving tour, 373–379; maps, 362; planning tips, 361–363; tours, 372–373, 381
Burren Centre (Kilfenora): 374
Burren Perfumery (Carran): 375–376
Burren Way: 366
Busáras Central Bus Station (Dublin): 39–40
Buses (bus travel): 677, 682–683; map, 680–681; Dublin, 39–40, 43, 140–141; tours, 49–50. See also specific destinations
Bushmills (town): 522; eating, 516–517; sleeping, 527
Bushmills Distillery: 516, 521–522
Business hours: 646
Butler Arms Hotel (Waterville): 295
Butler Gallery (Kilkenny): 199
Butter Slip (Kilkenny): 190
C
Cabs: See Taxis
Caherconnell Ring Fort: 376
Cahergal Ring Fort: 287, 290, 300
Cahersiveen: 299–300
Cairnryan: ferries, 594
Calatrava, Santiago: 107
Canice, Saint: 193
Car and driver, overview: 683
Car insurance: 685
Carnegie Arts Center (Kenmare): 278
Carol Cronin Gallery (Dingle): 317
Caroline, HMS (Belfast): 546, 563, 567–568
Carran: 375–376
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge: 523–524
Carrickfergus Castle: 605
Carroll’s Cove: 292
Carrowbeg River: 451
Carson, Edward: 556
Car travel (driving): 689–693; best three-week trip, 20–21; distances and time, 686–687; road signs, 692; roundabouts, 689; the Burren, 373–379; Connemara, 441–448; County Donegal, 461–472; Dublin, 40, 141; Killarney National Park, 274–275; Ring of Kerry, 286–300; Sally Gap, 172; Slea Head, 340–353; Tralee, 359–360. See also specific destinations
Casement Square (Cobh): 255–256
Casey, Steve “Crusher”: 291
Cashel (town): 231–233; eating, 233; sleeping, 232
Cashel, Rock of: See Rock of Cashel
Cashel Murphy Beehive Huts: 346
Castle Park (Bangor): 597
Castles: accommodations at, 666–667; architecture, 624; Ashford Castle, 437, 440; Bangor Castle, 597; Blarney Castle, 261–262; Bunratty Castle, 362; Carrickfergus Castle, 605; Desmond Castle (Kinsale), 243–244; Donegal Castle, 474–475; Dublin Castle, 47, 64, 90–91; Dunguaire Castle, 379, 407; Dunluce Castle, 524–525; Glenveagh Castle, 466–468; Hillsborough Castle, 547, 603–604; Kilkenny Castle, 189–190, 193, 195; Leamaneh Castle, 374–375; Lynch’s Castle (Galway), 396; Minard Castle, 326–327; O’Brien’s Castle (Inisheer), 429, 430; Rock of Cashel Castle, 231; Trim Castle, 165–167
Castletownbere: 283
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Waterford): 213
Cathedral Quarter (Belfast): 537, 538, 555–556; eating, 592–593; nightlife, 585
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Catholic Church: 32, 34; Latin Mass, in Dublin, 42
Cavan, Saint: 429–430
Cell (mobile) phones: 26, 674–676. See also Apps
Celtic Nights (Dublin): 121, 131
Celtic Whiskey Shop (Dublin): 54
Celts (Celtics): 6, 9, 81, 84, 313, 327, 345, 351, 619, 628
Centre for Migration Studies (near Omagh): 512
Chalice of Ardagh: 85
Chaplin, Charlie: 295
Charles Fort (Kinsale): 245, 248
Charles III: 480, 576–577, 601, 612
Charles Stewart Parnell Monument (Dublin): 74–75
Chester Beatty Library (Dublin): 46, 64, 92–94, 134–135
Chieftans, the: 403, 451, 452–453
Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin): 47, 65–66, 95–96; sleeping near, 125–126
Christ Church Cathedral (Waterford): 211–212
Church, The (Dublin): 138
Church Bay: 526
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 625; Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin), 47, 65–66, 95–96; Christ Church Cathedral (Waterford), 211–212; First Derry Presbyterian Church, 490–491; Galway Cathedral, 397–398, 400–401; Holy Cross Church (Kenmare), 281; Holy Trinity Cathedral (Waterford), 213; Kilmalkedar church, 352–353; Long Tower Church (Derry), 506; Rock of Cashel Cathedral, 230–231; St. Anne’s Cathedral (Belfast), 556–557; St. Ann’s Church (Dublin), 55; St. Benen’s Church (Inishmore), 424; St. Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny), 198; St. Cavan’s Church (Inisheer), 429–430; St. Colman’s Cathedral (Cobh), 258; St. Columb’s Cathedral (Derry), 505–506; St. Enda’s Church (Inishmore), 423; St. James’ Church (Dingle), 314–315, 330; St. Mary’s Church (Dingle), 317, 321–322; St. Multose Church (Kinsale), 243; St. Nicholas Collegiate Church (Galway), 396; St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin), 47, 97–99; St. Teresa’s Catholic Church (Dublin), 58; Seven Churches (Inishmore), 423
Church Hill: 466
Cistercian abbeys: about, 216. See also Abbeys and monasteries
Claddagh (Galway): 398
Claddagh Records (Dublin): 69
Claddagh rings: 119, 395–396, 398
Clare, County: 16, 361–387; map, 362
Clare, Mary Francis: 279
Clare Museum (Ennis): 381–382
Clarke, Harry: 58; Windows of Díseart (Dingle), 311, 317, 321–322
Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 695
Clew Bay: 445
Cliffoney: 473
Cliffs of Moher: 363–367; map, 364; tours, 363–364, 368–369; Visitors Center, 365
Clifftop Experience (Antrim Coast): 521
Clochans (beehive huts): 296, 303, 310, 344, 346–347
Clogher Head: 349–350
Clonard Memorial Garden (Belfast): 574
Clonardy Monastery (Belfast): 574
Clonycavan Man: 84
Clothing sizes: 703
Cobblestone Pub (Dublin): 123
Cobh: 14, 253–260; eating, 259–260; helpful hints, 254–255; maps, 235, 255; planning tips, 234–235; sights, 255–259; sleeping, 259; tourist information, 254; transportation, 260
Cobh Heritage Centre: 257
Coffin ships: 446–447; Dunbrody, 218–219; Jeanie Johnston, 47, 108, 118
Cois na hAbhna (Ennis): 384
Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas (Galway): 396
Collins, Michael: 56, 65, 67, 90, 116, 117; Beal na Blath, 262–263
Collins Barracks (Dublin): 114
Columba, Saint (Colmcille): 423, 463, 491, 492, 505–506
Columbus, Christopher: 396, 399; Monument (Galway), 397
Commercial Court (Belfast): 555–556
Cong: 436–441; eating, 441; sights, 436–437, 440
Cong Abbey: 436–437
Connemara: 16, 432; driving tour, 441–448; guided tours, 433; map, 434–435; planning tips, 432–433
Connemara National Park: 447
Connemara Regional Airport: 413–414
Connemara Sheep and Wool Centre (Leenane): 442
Connolly, James: 103, 110, 610
Connolly Station (Dublin): 39, 140; sleeping near, 130
Conor Pass: 360
Consulates: 645
Cork, County: 14, 234–263; map, 235; planning tips, 234–235. See also Cobh; Kinsale
Cork Airport: 253
Cormac’s Chapel (Rock of Cashel): 227–228
Cormac’s House (Hill of Tara): 163
Corrib River: 394, 397–398, 399–400
Costs of trip: 23
Country houses: Derrynane House, 288, 292–294; Kylemore Abbey, 443–444; Mount Stewart House, 547, 601–603; Muckross House, 271–273; Powerscourt Estate Gardens, 170–172; Rothe House and Garden (Kilkenny), 192, 197–198; Ventry Estate (Slea Head), 343; Westport House and Estate, 451–452
County Antrim: 513–535
County Clare: 361–387; map, 362
County Cork: 14, 234–263; map, 235; planning tips, 234–235. See also Cobh; Kinsale
County Donegal: 460–475, 512; driving tour, 461–472; maps, 461, 464–465; planning tips, 460–461. See also Derry
County Galway: 388–408
County Kerry: 264–300
County Kilkenny: 181–205; map, 184–185
County Mayo: 432–459; map, 434–435
County Tipperary: 223–233
Courthouse Pub (Dingle): 314, 330
Covid-19, entry requirements: 644
Craggaunowen Open-Air Folk Museum: 383–384
Crawfordsburn Country Park (Bangor): 598
Croagh Patrick: 445–446
Croke Park Stadium (Dublin): 115, 117
Cromwell, Oliver: 78, 97, 182–183, 192, 193, 194, 198, 222, 243, 279, 326, 389, 430, 608, 621–622, 623
Crooke: 222
Crookstown: 263
Cross of Cong: 86
Crown Liquor Saloon (Belfast): 549, 591
Crumlin Road Gaol (Belfast): 578–579
Crystal: Dingle, 318; Waterford Crystal, 205, 207–209
Cultra: 583–584
Curragh Racecourse: 177
Curran’s Pub (Dingle): 316, 329
Currency and exchange: 650; Northern Ireland, 478, 650; Republic of Ireland, 650
Curry’s Fun Park (Portrush): 530
Cushendall: 527
Customs regulations: 654
D
Dalton’s Bar (Kinsale): 241, 249
Dame Street (Dublin): 65
Dance: See Ceilidh; Step dancing, in Galway
Danlann Gallery (Dingle): 310
Darkey Kelly’s Bar (Dublin): 66, 122
Dark Hedges: 526
Dawson Lounge (Dublin): 54
De Gaulle, Charles: 291
Department stores, in Dublin: 117, 135
Derry: 17, 484–510; eating, 509–510; entertainment, 508; excursion areas, 510–512; helpful hints, 488–489; history of, 492–493, 499; maps, 486–487, 496; nightlife, 508; orientation, 485, 488; planning tips, 485; sights, 503–507; sleeping, 508–509; tourist information, 488; tours, 489; transportation, 471, 488, 510; walking tours, 489–503
Derrybeg: 469
Derry Craft Village: 490, 495, 505; eating, 509–510
Derrycunihy: 274
Derry Girls (TV series): 485, 489, 493, 495, 506–507, 701
Derry Guildhall: 504–505
Derry Halloween Festival: 489, 699
Derry Jazz and Big Band Festival: 488–489, 697
Derry Walls: 489–495
Desmond Castle (Kinsale): 243–244
De Valera, Éamon: 55, 56, 90, 110, 263, 381
Diamond, The (Derry): 494–495
Dick Mack’s Pub (Dingle): 318, 329
Dingle Courthouse: 313
Dingle Crystal: 318
Dingle Distillery: 311, 322, 342
Dingle Dolphin Boat Tours: 325
Dingle Food Festival: 309, 698
Dingle Harbor: 306, 319–320, 324–325, 342; cruises, 324–325
Dingle Hillwalking Club: 312
Dingle Horse Riding: 325
Dingle Peninsula: 12, 304–353; at a glance, 311; maps, 306–307, 341; planning tips, 305; vs. Ring of Kerry, 265; Slea Head driving tour, 340–353; tours, 310, 312
Dingle Peninsula Hotel: 351
Dingle Pitch & Putt: 326
Dingle Stone Pillars: 342–343
Dingle Town: 306–340; eating, 334–338; helpful hints, 308–310; history of, 319, 328–329; maps, 308–309, 314–315, 324, 332–333; nightlife, 327–330; shopping, 313–314, 315–316, 318; sights/activities, 321–327; sleeping, 330–334; tourist information, 307; tours, 310, 312; transportation, 307–308, 339–340; walking tour, 312–320
Dingle Town Mall: 312–313
Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations
Discounts: 646. See also Money-saving tips
Discover Ulster-Scots Centre (Belfast): 557–558
Distilleries: See Whiskey
Dolphins: 632; Fungie Statue (Dingle), 320
Dome, the (Belfast): 554
Donegal, County: 17, 460–475, 512; driving tour, 461–472; maps, 461, 464–465; planning tips, 460–461. See also Derry
Donegal Castle: 474–475
Donegall Place (Belfast): 553
Donegall Square (Belfast): 552
Donegal Town: 474–475
Doolin: 367–370; eating, 370; ferries, 368–369; sleeping, 369–370; transportation, 370
Doolin Cliff Walk: 368
Doolin Ferry Company: 368–369, 412–413
Doolin Music House: 368
Doolin Pitch-and-Putt: 369
Drake, HMS: 605
Driminaught: 466
Driving: See Car travel
Drombeg Stone Circle: 622
Dromoland Castle: 667
Druid Theatre (Galway): 397
Drumcliff Village: 472–473
Dry-stone walls, about: 421
Dublin: 12, 36–142; at a glance, 46–47; arrival in, 39–41; with children, 118; eating, 131–139; entertainment, 120–124; excursion areas, 142–180; helpful hints, 41–42; itineraries, 37–38; layout of, 38; maps, 40–41, 43, 52–53, 71, 78–79, 100–101, 126–127, 128, 132–133; orientation, 38; planning tips, 37–38; shopping, 117–120; sights, 76–117; sightseeing tips, 39, 41; sleeping, 124–130; tourist information, 38–39; tours, 45, 48–50; transportation, 39–41, 42–45, 140–142; walking tours, 50–76
Dublin Airport: 140, 143–144, 594
Dublin Bay: 142–149
Dublin City Hall: 65
Dubliners (band): 123
Dublin Historical Walking Tour: 45, 46
Dublin Literary Pub Crawl: 48–49
Dublin Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl: 46, 48, 121–122, 131
Dun Aengus (Inishmore): 410, 419–420, 422
Dunamase: 179–180
Dunbeg Fort: 345
Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross): 218–219
Dunfanaghy: 470–471
Dunfanaghy Workhouse: 469–470
Dunganstown: 220
Dun Laoghaire: 38, 142–149; eating, 148–149; map, 144–145; sights/activities, 146–148; sleeping, 148
Dunluce Castle: 524–525
Dunmore Head: 347
E
Eask Tower (Dingle): 320, 324, 342, 353
Eason’s (Dublin): 119
Easter Rising (1916): 52–53, 56, 65, 73, 75, 80, 105, 110, 114, 451, 609, 610, 626; Garden of Remembrance (Dublin), 75–76; GPO Witness History Exhibit (Dublin), 47, 73, 99–102; guided walking tour, of Dublin, 45, 48; Memorial (Dingle), 313
Eating: 669–674; budgeting, 23, 24; tipping, 652; user reviews, 665. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Ebrington Square (Derry): 507
Economy: 627–628; Northern Ireland, 480; Republic of Ireland, 33
Eddie Rocket’s Diner (Dublin): 118
Eileen Hickey Republican History Museum (Belfast): 573–574
Electricity: 646
Elizabeth II: 34, 76, 116, 576
Embassies: 645
Emergencies: 645
Emigration: 103, 463, 623, 628; Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross), 218–219; EPIC: The Irish Emigration Museum (Dublin), 46, 106–107; Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship (Dublin), 47, 108, 118; Queenstown Story (Cobh), 257, 259
Enda, Saint: 423
Ennis: 379–386; eating, 385; helpful hints, 381; map, 380; nightlife, 384; sights, 381–384; sleeping, 385; tourist information, 381; tours, 381; transportation, 381, 386
Ennis Friary: 382–383
Entertainment: budgeting, 23. See also Music; Theater
Environmental footprint (going green): 646, 648
Enya (musician): 463
EPIC: The Irish Emigration Museum (Dublin): 46, 106–107
Erriff River: 444–445
Essex Street (Dublin): 119–120
Euro currency: 650
Europa Hotel (Belfast): 548, 586
Evensong, in Dublin: 96, 97–98
Evolution in Ireland: 298
Exchange rates: 650
Eyre Square (Galway): 389, 394–395; eating near, 407
F
Fab Food Trails Dublin: 49
Falconry: 334, 378; Ireland School of Falconry (Cong), 440; Kingdom Falconry (Dingle), 323
Falls Road (Belfast): 538, 569, 571–572, 573–575, 614
Famine: See Great Potato Famine
Far and Away (movie): 305, 319, 343, 347, 701
Father Ted (TV series): 417
Ferries: 693; Aran Islands, 368–369, 412–413; Belfast, 594; Blasket Islands, 355; Doolin, 368–369, 412–413; Dublin, 141–142; Hook Head, 222; Killimer-Tarbert, 360; map, 680–681; Rathlin Island, 526; Skellig Michael, 302; Valentia Island, 299
Festivals: 697–699; Dingle, 308–309, 698; Ennis, 381, 698; Galway, 392, 698; Inishmore, 417, 698; Tralee, 357, 698. See also specific festivals
Fiadh Handwoven Design (Dingle): 313–314
Films, recommended: 700–702. See also specific films
First Derry Presbyterian Church: 490–491
Fishamble Street (Dublin): 66
Fishing: Cong, 437; Dingle, 319–320; Ring of Kerry, 295
Flag: Northern Ireland, 480; Republic of Ireland, 33
Folk music: See Music
Food: See Eating; Markets
Food tours: Belfast, 545; Dublin, 49; Galway, 393
Football: See Gaelic football
Forster Street (Galway): 401, 403, 404
14 Henrietta Street (Dublin): 46, 102–106
Four Courts (Dublin): 67
Foxy John’s Pub (Dingle): 316, 329
Foyle Maritime Festival (Derry): 489, 698
Foyle River: 464, 484, 485, 507
Foyleside (Derry): 485
Foyleside Shopping Centre (Derry): 495, 508
Fungie Statue (Dingle): 320
Fusiliers Arch (Dublin): 51–52
G
Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA): 32, 116; Museum (Dublin), 47, 115, 117, 118
Gaelic language: 32, 634–637; County Donegal, 467; Dingle Peninsula, 317, 339; names, 637; place names, 635–636; pleasantries, 636; political terms, 636; pub and music words, 637
Gaiety Theatre (Dublin): 120
Gallarus Oratory: 351–352
Galway: 16, 388–408; eating, 405–407; helpful hints, 392–393; history of, 389, 399; map, 390–391; nightlife, 402–403; orientation, 389; planning tips, 388–389; sights, 398–402; sleeping, 403–405; tourist information, 392; tours, 393–394; transportation, 392, 407–408; walking tour, 394–398
Galway Arts Festival: 392, 698
Galway Cathedral: 397–398, 400–401
Galway City Museum: 398–399
Galway Food Tours: 393
Galway Oyster Festival: 392, 698
Galway Tour Company: 363–364, 373, 394, 433
Game of Thrones (TV show): 523, 524, 526, 560, 562, 580; bus tour, in Belfast, 546–547
Game of Thrones Studio Tour (Banbridge): 523
Gap of Dunloe: 275
Garden of Remembrance (Belfast): 552, 574
Garden of Remembrance (Dublin): 75–76
Garnish Island: 282
Gate Theatre (Dublin): 75, 120
Genealogical research: 107, 259, 512, 558; overview, 647
General Post Office (Dublin): 47, 73, 99–102
Geography: Northern Ireland, 480; Republic of Ireland, 33
George Best Belfast City Airport: 594
George’s Street (Dun Laoghaire): 149
Giant’s Causeway: 517–521; hiking, 519–521; map, 518; sleeping, 527–528; Visitors Centre, 519
Glacier Lake: 291
Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin): 117
Glasthule: 143, 146; eating, 148–149; sleeping, 148
Glebe Stone Circle: 622
Glenariff Forest Park: 527
Glencree: 172
Glendalough: 170, 172–176; map, 173; Visitors Center, 174
Glens of Antrim: 526–527
Glenveagh Castle and National Park: 466–468, 512
Glór Irish Music Centre (Ennis): 384
Gobbins Cliff Path: 527, 547, 605–606
Gogarty’s Pub (Dublin): 122
Golden Mile (Belfast): 548–549
Golf: Ballyferriter, 326; Dingle, 326, 342; Doolin, 369; Kenmare, 281; Portrush, 531
Good Friday Agreement: 493, 502, 504, 540, 548, 568, 569, 616
Gortahork: 469
Government: Northern Ireland, 480; Republic of Ireland, 33
GPO Witness History Exhibit (Dublin): 47, 73, 99–102
Grafton Street (Dublin): 37, 55–59; eating, 134, 135; map, 52–53; shopping, 119
Grand Canal Dock (Dublin): 143
Grand Opera House (Belfast): 549, 584
Gravity Bar (Dublin): 113
Gray, John: 72
Great Blasket Centre: 311, 348–349
Great Blasket Island: 265, 305, 311, 347–349, 353–356; ferries, 325, 355; map, 354; sights/activities, 355–356; sleeping, 356
Great houses: See Country houses
Great Potato Famine (1845-49): 74, 103, 279, 346, 386–387, 436, 445, 455, 609, 623; about, 438–439; Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross), 218–219; Irish Workhouse Centre (Portumna), 386–387; Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship (Dublin), 47, 108, 118; Kilkenny Famine Experience, 199–200; Memorial (Dublin), 107–108; Memorial Garden (Kilkenny), 200; Strokestown Park and Irish National Famine Museum, 457–459
Great Victoria Street (Belfast): 548–549
Great Western Greenway: 450, 452
Green Post Box (Dublin): 63–64
Green Street (Dingle): 316–318
Gresham Hotel (Dublin): 74
Grey Point Fort (Bangor): 598
Grianan of Aileach Ring Fort: 462–464, 512
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 695
Guided tours: See Tours
Guinness: 671; in Dingle, 313; in Dublin, 47, 111–113
Guinness, Arthur: 111–112, 138, 671
Guinness Storehouse (Dublin): 47, 111–113
Gweedore: 469
H
Hag’s Head: 366
Hall of the Red Earl (Galway): 397
Halloween Festival (Derry): 489, 699
Handel’s Hotel (Dublin): 66–67
Hands Across the Divide (Derry): 507
Ha’ Penny Bridge (Dublin): 67–68, 69
Hardiman Hotel (Galway): 394, 404
Harry Clarke Windows of Díseart (Dingle): 311, 317, 321–322
Harry Street (Dublin): 56
Healy Pass: 282–283
Heaney, Seamus: 634
Heartbreak Pier (Cobh): 257
Helen’s Bay: 598
Henrietta Street, no 14 (Dublin): 46, 102–106
Henry, Paul: 629
Henry Street (Dublin): 73, 120
Heuston Station (Dublin): 39, 140
Hickey Republican History Museum (Belfast): 573–574
Hickson’s Point (Belfast): 561
High crosses: 161, 175, 226–227, 229, 262–263, 471–472, 629
High Street (Kilkenny): 190, 204
Hiking (walks): Bangor, 598; Cliffs of Moher, 365–366; Cobh, 254–255; Connemara National Park, 447; Croagh Patrick, 446; Dingle, 311, 312, 324; Giant’s Causeway, 519–521; Gobbins Cliff Path, 527, 547, 605–606; Great Blasket Island, 355–356; Horn Head, 471–472; Inisheer, 429, 430; Inishmore, 422–423; Kilkenny, 198–199; Kinsale, 237, 248; Mount Errigal, 468–469; Rathlin Island, 526; Skellig Michael, 303; Trim, 167–168
Hill of Tara: 83, 150, 162–163, 619; map, 151
Hillsborough Castle and Gardens: 547, 603–604
Hill Street (Belfast): 555
History: 619–627; timelines, 630–631. See also Troubles, the
HMS Caroline (Belfast): 546, 563, 567–568
Holidays: 697–699
Holy Cross Church (Kenmare): 281
Holyhead: ferries, 141–142
Holy Trinity Cathedral (Waterford): 213
Holy Well of St. Bridget: 366–367
Homeless Jesus (Dublin): 65
Hook Head: ferries, 222
Hook Lighthouse: 221–222
Hore Abbey: 229
Horn Head: 471–472
Horseback riding: 281, 325–326, 344
Horse-drawn carts: 418, 427–428, 456
Horse racing: Curragh Racecourse, 177; Galway Races, 392, 698
Horses, at Irish National Stud: 176–179
Hospital of St. John the Baptist (Newtown): 168
Hostels: overview, 668. See also specific destinations
Hotels: booking websites, 664; overview, 659–664; rates and deals, 658–659; reservations, 24, 25, 660–661. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
Hugh Lane Gallery (Dublin): 102
Hurling: 115–117, 189, 198–199
I
Inch Strand (Dingle): 327
Inisheer Island: 409, 427–431; eating, 431; map, 428; planning tips, 411; sights, 429–431
Inishmaan Island: 409
Inishmore Island: 414–426; eating, 426; ferries, 412–413; helpful hints, 416–417; maps, 415, 425; planning tips, 410–411, 414–415; sights/activities, 419–421; sleeping, 421–426; tourist information, 416; tours, 417–418
International Pan Celtic Festival (Derry): 697
International Wall (Belfast): 575
Internet security: 675
IRA: See Irish Republican Army
Ireland School of Falconry (Cong): 440
Irish Citizen Army: 103
Irish dancing, in Galway: 403
Irish Design Shop (Dublin): 118–119
Irish Family History Centre (Dublin): 107
Irish Ferries: 141–142
Irish Film Institute (Dublin): 121
Irish football: See Gaelic football
“Irish fry” breakfast: 659–660, 663, 670
Irish Handmade Glass Company (Waterford): 207
Irish high crosses: See High crosses
Irish House of Lords (Dublin): 62
Irish language: See Gaelic language
Irish literature: See Literature
Irish Museum of Modern Art (Dublin): 111
Irish Museum of Time (Waterford): 213
Irish music: See Music
Irish National Famine Museum: 457–459
Irish National Stud: 176–179
Irish Rebellion (1798): 110, 163, 170, 293, 494
Irish Republican Army (IRA): 263, 293, 473, 482, 609–610, 612, 614, 626
Irish Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum (Dublin): 69, 118
Irish Silver Museum (Waterford): 212–213
Irish Wake Museum (Waterford): 212
Irish whiskey: See Whiskey
Irish Workhouse Centre (Portumna): 386–387
Irish-Yankee vocabulary: 638–643
Itinerary planning: 18–22
Iveragh Peninsula: See Ring of Kerry
J
James Fort (Kinsale): 248–249
James Joyce Centre (Dublin): 106
James Joyce Tower and Museum (Dun Laoghaire): 147–148
James Street (Westport): 449–451
Japanese Gardens (Kildare): 179
Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship (Dublin): 47, 108, 118
Jerpoint Abbey: 215–217
JFK Arboretum (Wexford): 221
John Benny’s Pub (Dingle): 328–329, 335
John F. Kennedy Park (Cobh): 256–257
John F. Kennedy Park (Galway): 394
John F. Kennedy Pier (Cobh): 256
John Kehoe Pub (Dublin): 55
John’s Bridge (Kilkenny): 198
John Weldon Jewellers (Dingle): 318
Joyce, James: 48, 59, 73–74, 91, 104–105, 121, 397, 633; Bloomsday (Dublin), 42, 59, 698; Centre (Dublin), 106; Tower and Museum (Dun Laoghaire), 147–148; Ulysses, 59, 74, 91, 104–105, 137, 147, 633
Joyce, William: 399
Julia Morrissey Bridge (Galway): 399–400
K
Keating, Sean: 629
Keem Strand: 455
Kells Bay: 300
Kenmare: 16, 276–285; eating, 284–285; helpful hints, 276, 278; history of, 279; map, 277; nightlife, 281; planning tips, 266–270; sights/activities, 280–281; sleeping, 281–284; tourist information, 276; tours, 278; transportation, 285
Kenmare Ancient Stone Circle: 280–281, 622
Kenmare Bay: 291
Kenmare Bookshop: 276
Kenmare Golf Club: 281
Kenmare Heritage Centre: 280
Kenmare Lace and Design Centre: 280
Kennedy, John F.: 90, 220–221, 256–257, 394, 401
Kennedy Arboretum (Wexford): 221
Kennedy Homestead (County Wexford): 220–221
Kennedy Park (Cobh): 256–257
Kennedy Park (Galway): 394
Kennedy Pier (Cobh): 256
Kerry, County: 264–300
Kerry, Ring of: See Ring of Kerry
Kerry County Museum (Tralee): 357
Kevin, Saint: 173–176
Kildare: 177
Kilfenora: 374
Kilfenora Céilí Band: 374
Kilkenny: 14, 185–205; eating, 204; helpful hints, 187–188; maps, 187, 202; nightlife, 200–201; planning tips, 181–183; sights/activities, 193–200; sleeping, 201–204; tourist information, 186; tours, 188–189; transportation, 186–187, 205; walking tour, 189–193
Kilkenny, County: 181–205; map, 184–185
Kilkenny Castle: 189–190, 193, 195
Kilkenny Design (Dublin): 117–118
Kilkenny Design Centre: 190
Kilkenny Famine Experience: 199–200
Kilkenny Way: 189
Killarney House: 270–271
Killarney National Park: 270–271, 274–275
Killarney Outlet Centre: 270
Killary “Fjord”: 442
Killeany: 423–424
Killimer-Tarbert ferry: 360
Kilmainham Gaol (Dublin): 46, 109–111
Kilmalkedar church: 352–353
Kilmurvey (Inishmore): 422
Kilronan (Inishmore): 413–422; eating, 426; map, 425; sleeping, 424–426
Kingdom Falconry (Dingle): 323
King’s Corner (Belfast): 576
Kinsale: 14, 235–253; eating, 251–253; helpful hints, 236–237; history of, 246–247; maps, 235, 238–239; nightlife, 249; planning tips, 234–235; shopping, 249; sights, 244–249; sleeping, 250–251; tourist information, 236; tours, 237, 240; transportation, 236, 253; walking tour, 240–244
Kinsale Harbor: 236, 240; cruises, 237, 240
Kinsale Market Quay Square: 241
Kinsale Market Square: 242
Kinsale Mead Company: 244–245
Kinsale Regional Museum: 242, 244
Kinsale Rugby Sevens Tournament: 236
Kinvarra: 378–379
Knightstown Heritage Museum: 289, 297, 299
Knock Shrine: 457
Knowth: 152, 155–156; background, 153–155; map, 151; orientation, 153; planning tips, 151; tours, 151–152, 153; transportation, 151, 152–153
Kylemore Abbey: 443–444
Kytelers Inn (Kilkenny): 191, 201, 204
L
Lace (lacemaking): 279, 280; Kenmare Lace and Design Centre, 280
Ladies View: 274
Lagan Weir (Belfast): 558–559
Language: See Gaelic language
“Latin Quarter” (Galway): 395–397; eating, 405–406
Leacanabuaile Ring Fort: 287, 300
Leamaneh Castle: 374–375
Leenane: 441–442
Leinster House (Dublin): 81
Leprechaun Museum (Dublin): 118
Letterfrack: 447
Liberties, The (Dublin): 113–114
Liddy’s (Pat) Walking Tours: 48
Lifford: 475
Linen Hall Library (Belfast): 550–552
Linen Mill Studios (Banbridge): 523
Lisbeth Mulcahy Weaver (Dingle): 318
Liscannor: 366
Lisdoonvarna: 371
Lispole: 326
Literature: 632–634, 699–700; in Dublin, 91; guided tours, 48–49; Museum of Literature Ireland, 46, 89; National Library of Ireland, 88–89. See also specific writers
Little Museum of Dublin: 89–90
Liverpool: ferries, 594
Liverpool Football Club (Belfast): 552
Lodging: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Londonderry: See Derry
Long’s Horseriding Centre (Ventry): 325–326, 344
Long Tower Church (Derry): 506
Looscaunagh Lough: 274–275
Lough Corrib: 436
Lough Leane: 271
Lough Mask: 436
Lough Tay: 172
Lough Veagh: 467
LUAS (Dublin): 43–44
Lusitania: 235–236, 242, 244, 247, 248, 255–256, 259, 564; Memorial (Cobh), 255–256
Lynch’s Castle (Galway): 396
Lyric Theatre (Belfast): 580, 584
M
Maam Valley: 441
MacBride, John: 451
McDonagh, Thomas: 198
McKeag, Stevie “Top Gun”: 577
Macroom: 263
“Magdalene laundries”: 401
Mail: 676–677. See also Post offices; and specific destinations
Man of Aran (movie): 701
Mansion House (Dublin): 54–55
Maps: See Map Index
Marcie Regan’s Pub (Trim): 168
Maritime Mile Walk (Belfast): 560
Maritime Museum of Ireland (Dun Laoghaire): 148
Markets: Belfast, 541, 546, 579; Dingle Town, 309; Dublin, 69, 119–120; Dunfanaghy, 470; Galway, 392, 396; Kilkenny, 187; Kinsale, 236; Macroom, 263; Portmagee, 296; Waterford, 214
Markievicz, Constance: 110
Matchmaking Festival (Lisdoonvarna): 371
Mathew, Theobald: 74
Matt Molloy’s Pub (Westport): 451, 452–453
Mayo, County: 432–459; map, 434–435
Mead: 244–245
Meagher, Thomas Francis: 102, 209, 210, 699
Medical help: 645
Medieval banquet, at Dunguaire Castle: 379, 407
Medieval Mile (Kilkenny): 189, 190, 191–193, 197
Medieval Mile Museum (Kilkenny): 188, 190, 196–197
Medieval Museum (Waterford): 210–211
Meeting House Square (Dublin): 121
Megalithic art: See Archaeological sites
Mellifont Abbey: 160
Mellon Centre for Migration Studies (near Omagh): 512
Merchant Hotel (Belfast): 555, 586, 592
Merrion Square (Dublin): 90
Metric conversions: 703
Metropolitan Arts Center (Belfast): 557
Midleton Distillery: 260–261
Milestone House (Dingle): 334, 342
Military Road over Sally Gap: 172
Millennium Bridge (Dublin): 67, 120
Millennium Forum (Derry): 508
Millennium Walk (Dublin): 120
Milltown Cemetery (Belfast): 574–575
Milltown House (Dingle): 334
Milltown River: 342
Minard Castle: 326–327
Mobile phones: 26, 674–676. See also Apps
Moher: See Cliffs of Moher
Moll’s Gap: 275
Molly Malone statue (Dublin): 62
Monasterboice: 161
Monasteries: See Abbeys and monasteries
Money: 648–653; average daily expenses, 23; budgeting, 23; Northern Ireland, 478, 650. See also specific destinations
Money-saving tips: 23–24, 646; Belfast, 541; Dublin, 39, 44; sightseeing passes, 23–24, 656; sleeping, 658–659; train tickets, 682
Monk’s Stone House (Cong): 437
Moore, Annie: 257
Morrison, Van: 545
Motorcycle race, in Portrush: 528, 530
Mount Errigal: 468–469
Mount Stewart House: 547, 601–603
Movies, recommended: 700–702. See also specific movies
Muckross House: 271–273
Muckross Lake: 274
Muckross Traditional Farms: 273
Mullaghmore Head: 473
Mulranny: 452
Murals: about, 501; Belfast, 572–579. See also Bogside Murals
Murphy, William: 103
Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne (Ballyferriter): 350
Museum of Free Derry: 498
Museum of Literature Ireland (Dublin): 46, 89
Music: 7–8; glossary of Gaelic terms, 637; Belfast, 546, 584–586; Cashel, 232; Derry, 488–489, 508, 697; Dingle Town, 310, 311, 327–330; Doolin, 368, 370; Dublin, 69, 121–123; guided tours, 46, 48, 121–122; Irish Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum, 69, 118; Dunfanaghy, 471; Dun Laoghaire, 146; Ennis, 381, 384, 698; Galway, 402–403; Inishmore, 419; Kenmare, 281; Kilfenora, 374; Kilkenny, 200–201; Kinsale, 249; Lisdoonvarna, 371; Portmagee, 297; Portrush, 535; Tralee, 357, 698; Trim, 169; Westport, 452–453
N
Napoleonic Tower (Inisheer): 429, 430
Nassau Street (Dublin): 119
National Concert Hall (Dublin): 121
National Gallery of Ireland (Dublin): 87–88
National Leprechaun Museum (Dublin): 118
National Library of Ireland (Dublin): 88–89
National Maritime Museum of Ireland (Dun Laoghaire): 148
National Museum of Archaeology (Dublin): 46, 81–87; map, 82; self-guided tour, 82–87
National Museum of Decorative Arts and History (Dublin): 47, 114–115
National Museum of Natural History (Dublin): 88
Navogue boats: 416
Newgrange: 152, 156–157; background, 153–155; map, 151; planning tips, 151; tours, 151–152, 153; transportation, 151, 152–153
Newman’s Mall (Kinsale): 241–242
Newmills Corn and Flax Mills: 464–466, 512
New Ross: 218–220
Newtowntrim: 167–168
Nightlife: budgeting, 23. See also Music; Pubs; Theater
Nomadic, SS (Belfast): 561, 567
Nomads (Travellers): about, 456
Nore River: 198–199
North Down Museum (Bangor): 597
Northern Ireland: 6, 10, 478–606; almanac, 480; border crossing, 475, 685; currency, 478, 650; history, 612–618, 626–627; map, 479; overview, 478–483; political terminology, 482. See also specific destinations
Northern Ireland Drive: 433
Northern Ireland War Memorial (Belfast): 557
North Pier (Bangor): 598
North Quay Docklands (Dublin): 138–139
Northwest 200 Race (Portrush): 530
Northwest Ireland: 17, 460–475; map, 461; planning tips, 460–461
O
O’Brien, William Smith: 72
O’Brien’s Castle (Inisheer): 429, 430
O’Brien’s Tower: 366
Oceanworld (Dingle): 311, 322–323
Ó Conaire, Pádraic: 394–395
O’Connell, Daniel: 58, 65, 72, 74, 163, 264, 458; biographical sketch, 293; Derrynane House, 292–294
O’Connell Bridge (Dublin): 70
O’Connell Street (Dublin): 38, 46, 69–76, 99; map, 71; sights, 99–102; walking tour, 69–76
Octagon (Westport): 449
O’Dwyer, Mick: 295
Odyssey, the (Belfast): 560
Old Bushmills Distillery: 516, 521–522
Old Jameson Distillery (Dublin): 108
Old Mellifont Abbey: 160
Old Midleton Distillery: 260–261
Old Military Road over Sally Gap: 172
Omagh: Ulster American Folk Park, 510–512
O’Malley, Grace: 445
O’Neill’s Pub (Dublin): 62–63
Organized tours: See Tours
O’Shea, Paddy: 344
O’Shea’s Merchant Pub (Dublin): 122
Owengarriff River: 274
P
Packing tips and checklist: 26, 705
Parliament House (Dublin): 61–62
Parliament Square (Dublin): 60
Parnell, Charles Stewart: 74–75, 110, 117
Parnell Square (Dublin): 75; sleeping near, 129–130
Patrick, Saint: 9, 30, 83, 85, 97, 98, 223, 432, 620, 632; Croagh Patrick, 445–446; Cross of (Rock of Cashel), 226–227; Day, 42, 697; Hill of Tara, 150, 162–163
Patrún Festival (Kilronan): 417, 698
Pavilion Theatre (Dun Laoghaire): 146
Peace Bridge (Derry): 485, 507
Peace Wall (Derry): 494
Peace Walls (Belfast): 575–576, 614
Pearse Lyons Distillery (Dublin): 114
Peat bogs: 442–443; Bog Bodies (Dublin), 84, 443
Penn, William: 263
Performing arts: See Music; Theater
Phoenix Park (Dublin): 118
Phones: 674–676
Pickie Fun Park (Bangor): 598
Playhouse Theatre (Derry): 508
Political Gaelic terms: 636
Political murals: about, 501; Belfast, 572–579. See also Bogside Murals
Population: Northern Ireland, 480; Republic of Ireland, 33
Portadown Massacre: 608
Portaneevy: 524
Portballintrae: sleeping, 527
Portmagee: 288, 296–297; eating, 296–297; sleeping, 296
Portobello (Dublin): eating, 137–138
Portrush: 17, 528–535; eating, 532–533, 535; map, 529; sights/activities, 530–531; sleeping, 531–532; tourist information, 529; transportation, 529–530, 535
Portrush Recreation Grounds: 530
Portumna: 386–387
Post offices: 676–677; General Post Office (Dublin), 47, 73, 99–102. See also specific destinations
Potato Famine (1845–49): See Great Potato Famine
Pottinger’s Entry (Belfast): 554
Poulnabrone Dolmen: 376–377
Powerscourt Center (Dublin): 118
Powerscourt Estate Gardens: 170–172
Prehistoric sites: See Archaeological sites
Presbyterian Assembly Building (Belfast): 549
Pubs: 670, 672–674; eating at, 673–674; glossary of Gaelic terms, 637; Ballyferriter, 350; Belfast, 585–586; Cashel, 233; Cong, 441; Derry, 508; Dingle, 316, 318; Dingle Town, 327–330; Doolin, 368, 370; Dublin, 121–124; guided tours, 46, 48–49; Dunfanaghy, 471; Dun Laoghaire, 149; Ennis, 385; Galway, 396–397, 402–403; Inisheer, 431; Inishmore, 419, 426; Kenmare, 281; Kilfenora, 374; Kilkenny, 200–201; Kinsale, 241, 249; Lisdoonvarna, 371; Portmagee, 297; Portrush, 535; Trim, 168, 169; Waterford, 214; Westport, 452–453
Puck Fair (Killorglin): 698
Q
Quays, the (Galway): 396–397, 403
Queen’s Corner (Belfast): 576; eating, 593
Queen’s Quarter (Belfast): 536–537, 539, 579–583; map, 581; sleeping, 587, 590
Queenstown Story (Cobh): 257, 259
Queen’s University (Belfast): 579–580
Quiet Man, The (movie): 436, 437, 702
Quiet Man Museum (Cong): 437
R
Rafting: 165
Rail travel: See Train travel
Rathlin Island: 525–526
Rathlin West Light: 526
Reasc Monastery: 350–351
Rebellion Walking Tour (Dublin): 45, 48
Red Hand of Ulster: 582, 602–603, 613
Reginald’s Tower (Waterford): 209
Rental properties: 664–668
Republic of Ireland: 6, 9, 30–475; almanac, 33; border crossing, 475, 685; currency, 650; history, 612–618, 626–627; map, 31; overview, 30–35. See also specific destinations
Resources from Rick Steves: 694–696
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Rice, James: 212
Ring forts: about, 290. See also Archaeological sites
Ring of Kerry: 16, 264–300; driving tour, 286–300; maps, 266–267, 288–289; planning tips, 266–270, 286–288; ring forts, 290, 300; tours, 278; vs. Dingle Peninsula, 265. See also Kenmare
River Valley Riding Stables (Kenmare): 281
Robert the Bruce: 534
Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum (Dublin): 69, 118
Rock of Cashel: 14, 223–231; map, 226; orientation, 224–225; planning tips, 181–183, 224; self-guided tour, 225–231; tours, 225; transportation, 223–224
Rock of Cashel Castle: 231
Rock of Cashel Cathedral: 230–231
Roe & Co Whiskey Distillery (Dublin): 113–114
Romans, ancient: 30, 85, 534, 619–620
Room and board: See Eating; Sleeping
Rose of Tralee International Festival: 357, 698
Rossville Street (Derry): 494, 496–500
Rothe House and Garden (Kilkenny): 192, 197–198
Roundwood: 172
Royal Portrush Golf Club: 531
RTE (Raidió teilifís Éireann): 34, 691
Rubrics (Dublin): 60
Ryan’s Daughter (movie): 305, 319, 327, 348, 350, 702
S
Saints: See specific saints
St. Andrew’s (Dublin): 62
St. Anne’s Cathedral (Belfast): 556–557
St. Ann’s Church (Dublin): 55
St. Augustine Chapel (Derry): 491
St. Benen’s Church (Inishmore): 424
St. Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny): 198
St. Cavan’s Church (Inisheer): 429–430
St. Colman’s Cathedral (Cobh): 258
St. Columb Heritage Center (Derry): 506
St. Columb’s Cathedral (Derry): 495, 505–506
St. Columb’s Hall (Derry): 495, 508
St. Enda’s Church (Inishmore): 423
St. Fiachra’s Garden (Kildare): 179
St. Finian’s Bay: 287, 295–296
St. George’s Market (Belfast): 541, 546, 579
St. James’ Church (Dingle): 314–315, 330
St. John’s Eve Bonfire Night (Inishmore): 417, 698
St. Kevin’s Church (Dublin): 42
St. Kevin’s Cross: 175
St. Kevin’s Day: 174
St. Kieran’s Church (Glendalough): 176
St. Kieran’s Street (Kilkenny): 192
St. Mary of the Rosary Church (Cong): 437
St. Mary’s Cathedral (Kilkenny): 191–192
St. Mary’s Church (Dingle): 317, 321–322
St. Mary’s Church (Dublin): 138
St. Mary’s Church (Kilkenny): 190
St. Multose Church (Kinsale): 243
St. Nicholas Collegiate Church (Galway): 396
St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin): 47, 97–99
St. Patrick’s Cross (Rock of Cashel): 226–227
Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral (Trim): 167–168
St. Stephen’s Green (Dublin): 51–54, 118; map, 52–53; pubs, 123; sleeping near, 125
St. Stephen’s Park (Dublin): 99
St. Teresa’s Catholic Church (Dublin): 58
Sally Gap: 172
Salmon, George: 60
Salmon Weir Bridge (Galway): 400
Salthill: 401–402, 403; sleeping, 405
Samuel Beckett Bridge (Dublin): 107
Sands, Bobby: 573, 575, 576, 615
Sandycove/Glasthule: 143, 146; eating, 148–149; sleeping, 148
Santa María de la Rosa: 348
Scilly Walk (Kinsale): 248
Sciúird Archaeology Tours: 310, 311, 312
Scott, Robert Falcon: 328–329, 357
Scuba diving: 419
Seasons: 19
Set Theatre (Kilkenny): 201
“Seven Churches” (Inishmore): 423
Shackleton, Ernest: 328–329, 357
Shankill Road (Belfast): 538, 569, 576–578, 614
Shannon Airport: 386
Shaw, George Bernard: 91, 300, 633
Sheepdogs: 346, 376; Kissane Sheep Farm, 269, 275
Shelbourne Hotel (Dublin): 136
Shepherd’s Steps (Giant’s Causeway): 520–521
Shopping: clothing sizes, 703; hours, 646; VAT refunds, 653. See also Crystal; Lace; Markets; and specific destinations
Siege Museum (Derry): 491
Siege of Londonderry: 485, 488, 490, 491, 492, 503, 505–506
Sightseeing: best three-week trip, 20–21; budgeting, 23; general tips for, 656–657; itinerary planning, 18–22; maps and navigation, 654, 688; ***must-See Destinations, 12; passes, 23–24, 656; planning tips, 654–655; reservations, 25; reservations and advance tickets, 654–655; worth-it destinations, 14–17. See also specific sights and destinations
SIM cards: 675–676
Sinn Fein: 33, 54–55, 56, 482, 572, 573, 609, 626; Press Office (Belfast), 573
Skellig Experience Centre (Valentia): 288–289, 297, 302
Skellig Michael: 269–270, 300–303, 343; ferries, 302
Skellig Ring: 295
Skelligs Chocolate Factory: 295–296
Slea Head: 311, 324, 340–353; biking, 324; driving tour, 340–353; eating, 338; map, 341; planning tips, 340–342; tours, 312
Slea Head Ring Fort: 345
Sleep code: 658
Sleeping: 657–668; booking websites, 664; budgeting, 23; rates and deals, 658–659; reservations, 24, 25, 660–661; types of accommodations, 659–668. See also specific destinations
“Sleeping Giant”: 348
Slievemore Deserted Village: 455–457
Small Gallery (Dingle): 315–316
Smartphones: 26, 674–676. See also Apps
Smerwick Harbor: 353
Smithfield (Dublin): 108–109; pubs, 123; sleeping, 130
Smithfield Square (Dublin): 108–109, 123, 130
Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny: 192, 197
Smock Alley Theatre (Dublin): 120
Sneem: 291–292
Somme Museum (Bangor): 598–599
Sounds of History Museum (Rock of Cashel): 232
South Belfast: See Queen’s Quarter
Southeast Ireland: 14, 181–222; history, 182–183; map, 184–185; planning tips, 181–185. See also Kilkenny; Waterford
South Pole Inn (Dingle): 327
Spaniard Inn (Kinsale): 249
Spanish Arch (Galway): 398
Spanish Armada: 30, 235, 240, 323, 348, 503–504, 525, 580–581
Special events: See Festivals
Spike Island (Cobh): 256
Spire, the (Dublin): 73–74
“Spirit of Belfast” (statue): 554
Sports: See Fishing; Gaelic Athletic Association; Gaelic football; Golf; Hiking; Hurling
SSE Odyssey Arena (Belfast): 560
Stag and hen parties: 201, 305, 403
Staigue Ring Fort: 287, 290, 292
Star Wars (movies): 301, 305, 319, 348
Step dancing, in Galway: 403
Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre (Dublin): 54, 117
Stone circles: about, 622. See also Archaeological sites
Stonehouse Cafe (Dingle): 338, 345–346
Stoneybatter (Dublin): 109, 139; eating, 139
Stoneyford: sleeping, 203
Storm Beach: 327
Strabane: 475
Stranorlar: 475
Strokestown Park and Irish National Famine Museum: 457–459
Strongbow: 96, 97, 182–183, 189, 195, 211, 212, 608
Sweny’s Pharmacy (Dublin): 91
Sybil Head: 349–350
T
Tara, Hill of: See Hill of Tara
Tara Brooch: 85–86
Taxes: VAT refunds, 653
Taxis: 683; Belfast, 544; Dublin, 44–45, 140; tipping, 652. See also specific destinations
Tedfest (Inishmore): 417
Teeling Distillery (Dublin): 114
Telephones: 674–676
Temperance Hall (Dingle): 316
Temperatures, average monthly: 704
Temple Bar (Dublin): 46, 68, 95; eating, 135–136; pubs, 122–123; shopping, 119–120
Temple Bar Square (Dublin): 69
Theater: Belfast, 584; Derry, 508; Dublin, 120; Dun Laoghaire, 146; Ennis, 384; Galway, 397; Kilkenny, 201
Theft alerts: 27, 42, 645, 651–652
Thomas Moran (Westport): 451
Thompson Dry Dock (Belfast): 563
3 Arena (Dublin): 121
Three Sisters: 349–350
Time zones: 646
Tiny Bridge (Dingle): 312
Tipperary, County: 223–233
Tipping: 652–653
Titanic: 564; in Belfast, 536, 546, 552, 561–563, 565–567; in Cobh, 254–258
Titanic Belfast Museum: 546, 565–567
Titanic Distillers (Belfast): 563
Titanic Experience (Cobh): 256, 257–258; eating, 259
Titanic Hotel (Belfast): 561–562, 587
Titanic Memorial Garden (Belfast): 552
Titanic Quarter (Belfast): 538, 558–568; map, 559; walking tour, 558–563
Titanic Studios (Belfast): 562
Titanic Trail (Cobh): 254–255
Tone, Wolfe: 138
Torc Waterfall: 274
Tory Island: 472
Tourist information: 644–645. See also specific destinations
Tours: Dublin, 45, 48–50; Rick Steves, 695. See also specific destinations
Tower Museum Derry: 503–504
Traditional Irish music: See Music
Trad on the Prom (Galway): 403
Train travel: 678–682; map, 680–681; Dublin, 39, 44, 140–141. See also specific destinations
Tralee: 356–360; transportation, 359–360
Transit passes: 23; Dublin, 44
Transportation: 677–694; budgeting, 23; map, 680–681; pre-booking, 25. See also Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Car travel; Ferries; Train travel; and specific destinations
Transport Museum (Cultra): 547, 583–584
Travel advisories: 644
Travellers (nomads): about, 456
Travel smarts: 27–28
Travel tips: 644–648
Treasury (Dublin): 84–86
Trim: 164–169; eating, 169; helpful hints, 164–165; map, 166; sights/activities, 165–168; sleeping, 168–169; tourist information, 164; transportation, 169
Trim Castle: 165–167
Trinity College (Dublin): 46, 59–61, 76–81; guided tours, 76–77; pubs near, 123–124; sleeping, 125
Trinity Old Library (Dublin): 46, 59–60, 77–81
Trip costs: 23
Troubles, the: 10, 478–479, 607–618, 626–627; in Belfast, 536, 540, 548–549, 553, 568, 569, 572, 574, 575, 577, 578–579; guided tours, 545; in Derry, 484, 485, 488, 493, 494, 498–503; historical origns of, 607–612; symbols and terminology, 482, 612–613
Tully Walk: 179
Turin Castle: 667
U
Uilleann: 7–8
Ulster American Folk Park (near Omagh): 510–512
Ulster Defense Association (UDA): 482, 612
Ulster Folk Museum (Cultra): 547, 583
Ulster Museum (Belfast): 546–547, 580–583
Ulster Transport Museum (Cultra): 547, 583–584
Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF): 482, 577, 582, 612
Ulysses (Joyce): 59, 74, 91, 104–105, 137, 147, 633
V
Valentia Heritage Museum: 289, 297, 299
Valentia Island Car Ferry: 299
Valley of the Boyne: See Boyne Valley
VAT refunds: 653
Ventry (town): 343–344
Ventry Estate (Dingle): 343
Verbal Arts Centre (Derry): 494
Victoria, Queen: 253–254, 274, 552, 554
Victoria Square (Belfast): 541, 554
Victoria Street (Belfast): 548–549
Vikings: 66, 86–87, 96, 182, 228, 301, 349, 620; Dublinia (Dublin), 47, 96–97; Reginald’s Tower (Waterford), 209
Viking Splash Tours (Dublin): 118
Virgin Mary shrines: about, 458
Vocabulary, Irish-Yankee: 638–643
W
Wall of Fame (Dublin): 69
Waterford: 14, 205–215; eating, 214; helpful hints, 207; history of, 210; map, 206; planning tips, 181–183; sights, 207–213; sleeping, 213–214; tourist information, 206; transportation, 206–207, 215
Waterford Crystal: 205, 207–209; eating, 214; Visitor Centre, 207–209
Waterford Museum Quarter: 209–213, 214
Watergate Theatre (Kilkenny): 201
Water park, in Salthill: 401–402
Waterside (Derry): 485
Waterville: 295
Wave Dingle: 323
Wellington Column (Trim): 164
West Belfast: 538, 568–579; map, 570. See also Belfast Sectarian Neighborhoods
Westend (Galway): 398–399, 404–405; eating, 406
West Kerry Craft Guild (Dingle): 316
Westport: 16, 448–454; eating, 453–454; entertainment, 452–453; helpful hints, 448–449; map, 450; maps, 434–435; planning tips, 432–433; sights/activities, 449–452; sleeping, 453; transportation, 454; walking tour, 449–451
Westport House and Estate: 451–452
Westport Town Hall: 449
Whiskey: 672–673; Belfast, 563; Dingle Distillery, 311, 322, 342; Dublin, 54, 59, 108, 124; The Liberties distilleries, 113–114; Old Bushmills Distillery, 521–522; Old Midleton Distillery, 260–261
White Star Line Building (Cobh): 256
Wicklow Mountains: 170–176; map, 171
Wilde, Oscar: 5–6, 55, 60, 90, 91, 395, 556, 633
Women’s Quilt Corner (Belfast): 577
Workhouses: 199–200, 386–387, 438–439, 469–470
World War I: 56, 99, 103, 147, 242, 247, 353, 443, 471, 598, 610; HMS Caroline (Belfast), 546, 563, 567–568; Somme Museum (Bangor), 598–599. See also Lusitania
World War II: 536, 552, 557, 611
Worm Hole (Inishmore): 422–423
Wyatt, James: 448
Y
Yeats, William Butler: 54, 75–76, 88, 91, 120, 633; gravesite, 472