PRACTICALITIES
RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES
Map: Ireland’s Public Transportation
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Map: How to Navigate a Roundabout
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.
Travel Tips
Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, at Travel.State.gov (US State Department travel pages) and CDC.gov (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention). The US embassy website for Ireland is another good source of information (see later).
While most countries no longer require proof of Covid-19 vaccination for entry, some sights or tours may still have vaccination requirements (check websites). Even if it’s not required for your itinerary, it’s smart to pack a copy of your vaccine record and/or store a photo of your Covid-19 vaccine card on your phone.
Tourist Information: Ireland’s two government-funded tourist offices (one for the Republic and one for Northern Ireland) offer a wealth of information. Before your trip, scan their websites. For the Republic of Ireland, visit DiscoverIreland.ie. For Northern Ireland, use DiscoverNorthernIreland.com. At either site, you can download brochures and maps.
In Ireland, a good first stop in any town is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book; most are run by an organization called Fáilte Ireland, meaning “Welcome”). Avoid ad agencies masquerading as TIs, especially in Dublin—use the official TI. Fáilte Ireland TIs are information dispensaries with trained staff that don’t sell anything or take commissions. I swing by to pick up a city map and get info on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife. In smaller cities, these may be staffed only in summer, and in some places they’re not staffed at all—simply a rack of brochures and maps tucked in the corner of a museum or civic building.
In Dublin, try to get everything you’ll need for all of Ireland in one stop at the TI (see here). The general nationwide tourist-information phone number for travelers calling from within Ireland is +353 1 850 230 330 (office open Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun). Local Fáilte Ireland offices don’t have direct phone numbers; all calls are diverted to this central call center.
Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112. If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost items, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For help with a lost phone, see “Damage Control for Lost Phones” on here. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.
US Embassies: In Dublin by appointment only Mon-Fri 8:30-17:00, closed Sat-Sun, 42 Elgin Road, +353 1 668 8777, http://ie.usembassy.gov; in Belfast by appointment only Mon-Fri 8:30-17:00, closed Sat-Sun, Danesfort House, 223 Stranmillis Road, +44 28 9038 6100, after-hours emergency +44 28 9038 6104, http://uk.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulates/belfast.
Canadian Embassies and Consulates: In Dublin by appointment only Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-16:30, consular and passport services Mon-Fri 9:00-12:00, closed Sat-Sun, 7 Wilton Terrace, +353 1 234 4024, www.canada.ie; in Belfast, Honorary Consul, +44 33 0500 1222. This office does not offer passport services; instead contact the Canadian High Commission in London (www.unitedkingdom.gc.ca).
Time Zones: Ireland is five/eight hours ahead of the East/West coasts of the US—and one hour earlier than most of continental Europe. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).
Business Hours: In Ireland, most stores are open Monday through Saturday from roughly 10:00 to 17:30 or 18:00, with a late night on Wednesday or Thursday (until 19:00 or 20:00), depending on the neighborhood. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open (with limited hours), while banks and many shops are closed. You’ll notice special events, limited public transportation, no rush hours, and street markets lively with shoppers.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and appliances (hairdryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with three square prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.
Rip up this book! Turn chapters into mini guidebooks: Break the book’s spine and use a utility knife to slice apart chapters, keeping gummy edges intact. Reinforce the chapter spines with clear wide tape, use a heavy-duty stapler, or make or buy a cheap cover (see the Travel Store at RickSteves.com), swapping out chapters as you travel.
Discounts: Discounts for sights (called “concessions” in Ireland) are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 60 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only to Irish citizens.
Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint when traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them). Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, see RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.
Money
Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Europe. I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Credit Card: You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big (hotels, advance tickets) and small (little shops, food stands). Some businesses in Ireland have gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is widely accepted and simple to use.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw a small amount of local cash. Wait until you arrive to get cash (European airports have plenty of ATMs); if you buy euros and pounds before your trip, you’ll pay bad stateside exchange rates. While many transactions are by card these days, cash can help you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work and can be useful to pay for things like tips and local guides.
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.
Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency (for example, if your debit card gets eaten by the machine).
BEFORE YOU GO
Know your cards. For credit cards, Visa and Mastercard are universal while American Express and Discover are less common. US debit cards with a Visa or Mastercard logo will work in any European ATM.
Go “contactless.” Contactless pay options are now standard in much of Ireland. Check to see if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines) and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section for details). Both options are more secure than a physical credit card: Instead of recording your credit-card number, a one-time encrypted “token” enables the purchase and expires shortly afterward.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.
Report your travel dates. Some banks want to know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards overseas, specifically when and where you’re headed. Depending on your bank, you can do this either online or over the phone.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can withdraw daily and ask for a higher daily limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not savings accounts.
Find out about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or Mastercard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). Shop around; you can compare credit cards on Bankrate.com. Some cards offer lower international fees than others—and some don’t charge any at all. If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new card. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.
IN EUROPE
Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps
Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: These cards have the usual chip and/or magnetic stripe, but with the addition of a contactless symbol. Simply tap your card against a contactless reader to complete a transaction—no PIN or signature required (except in some cases as a security measure for larger purchases). This is by far the easiest way to pay and is the standard in much of Europe.
Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. To pay, hold your phone near a contactless reader; you may need to verify the transaction with a face scan, fingerprint scan, or passcode. If you’ve arrived in Ireland without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone to work in this way.
Will My US Card Work? Usually, yes. On rare occasions, you may run into a situation where your card doesn’t work. This is most likely at self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks, tollbooths, or fuel pumps). Usually a tap-to-pay card does the trick in these situations. If not, look for a cashier who can process your payment manually, or use cash. Drivers should be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. (In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card.) When approaching a toll plaza or ferry ticket line, use the “cash” lane.
Always Choose to Pay in the Local Currency: During a credit card transaction, the payment terminal will often ask whether you want to pay in US dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While this “service”—called Dynamic Currency Conversion (DCC)—offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate and/or higher fees, and you’ll wind up losing money.
Using Cash
Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars.
The best option is an ATM operated by a bank, which offers local cash calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate. Look for a cash machine marked with a bank logo, and ideally use one just outside a brick-and-mortar bank (in the rare event that you have any issues).
You’ll more commonly see cash machines run by exchange or money-transfer companies, which have unfavorable rates, higher fees, or both. These can be marked Euronet, Travelex, Your Cash, and Cashzone—or simply marked generically, as “bankomat” or “ATM.” Avoid these unless you enjoy paying too much for your local cash.
Rip-off exchange ATMs are often the only option at airports and train stations. On arrival, consider using a cashless payment option to get downtown, then find a real bank near your hotel to withdraw local currency.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later. When offered the choice to process your transaction in US dollars or the local currency, always choose the local currency for the best rates.
Exchanging Cash: Minimize exchanging money in Ireland; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). In a pinch, you can find exchange desks at major train stations or airports. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
Security Tips
Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your backup cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money and one card in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front of the machine. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Avoid using a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).
Damage Control for Lost Cards
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to your bank (using a secure app) or the following global customer-assistance centers. With a mobile phone, call these 24-hour US numbers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), Mastercard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111).
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days (see RickSteves.com/help for more). If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.
TIPPING
Tipping in Ireland is appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: At a pub or restaurant with waitstaff, check the menu or your bill to see if the service is included; if not, tip about 10-15 percent. At pubs where you order food at the counter, a tip is not expected but is appreciated. Tip in cash, or if paying with a credit card, you can ask the server to add a tip to your card. (You won’t get a printed receipt with a “tip line” like back home; rather, the server hands you the credit card terminal, and you punch in a new total that includes the tip.)
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €9, give €10). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.
Services: For local guides, private drivers, or others who spend several hours with you, and significantly improve the quality of your trip, a healthy tip (of around 10 percent) is not extravagant. In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a good job for you, a small tip of a euro/pound or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
GETTING A VAT REFUND
Wrapped into the purchase price of your Irish souvenirs is a value-added tax (VAT) of 23 percent in the Republic. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than £30 worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Since Jan. 1, 2021, visitors to the UK are no longer able to get a VAT (value-added tax) refund on purchases made in UK shops. In Northern Ireland, overseas visitors can still buy items tax-free at stores (that offer this service) if the items are sent directly to an overseas address outside the UK and the EU. As the UK continues to adjust to the fallout from Brexit, the situation regarding VAT refunds and tax-free shopping could change again. For the latest, check https://www.gov.uk/tax-on-shopping/taxfree-shopping.
In the Republic, getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.
At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Ireland.
At the Border or Airport: Process your VAT document at your last stop in Ireland with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds (allow plenty of extra time for this process and have your purchased items easily accessible for inspection). At some airports, you’ll go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT-refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. Elsewhere, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing, or you may be able to do it at a self-validation kiosk. (Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee, but you’re paying for the convenience of receiving your money in cash immediately or as a credit to your card.) Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant.
CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Ireland’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS
Your best navigation tool is on your phone. Google Maps (and similar mapping apps) offer turn-by-turn directions for walking and driving, as well as detailed public transit instructions in most big cities. Simply plug in a destination and instantly get detailed directions for reaching it on foot or by subway, bus, or tram—including where to catch it, how long it takes, where to get off, and how far you’ll walk at the other end.
To conserve data, most mapping apps let you download maps in advance (do this when you’re on strong Wi-Fi). However, offline maps may not include every feature (most in-city public transit navigation doesn’t work offline). For more on how to get online with your phone during your trip, see here.
For offline navigation, the maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Ireland, simple paper maps are generally free at TIs and hotels; maps with more detail are sold at newsstands and bookstores.
PLAN AHEAD
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see this book’s “At a Glance” sidebars for Dublin, Dingle, and Belfast.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Opening days and hours can fluctuate; confirm the latest with the TI or at the sight’s official website (listed throughout this book).
Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (first Monday in May). A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided walks and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES
Some popular sights in Ireland come with long ticket-buying lines. Visitors who buy tickets online in advance (or who have a museum pass covering key sights) can skip the line and waltz right in. Advance tickets are generally timed-entry, meaning you’re guaranteed admission on a certain date and time.
For some sights, buying ahead is required (tickets aren’t sold at the sight and it’s the only way to get in). At other sights, buying ahead is recommended to skip the line and save time. And for many sights, advance tickets are available but unnecessary: At these uncrowded sights you can simply arrive, buy a ticket, and go in.
Don’t confuse the reservation options: available, recommended, and required. Use my advice in this book as a guide. Note any must-see sights that sell out long in advance and be prepared to buy tickets early. If you do your research, you’ll know the smart strategy.
Given how precious your vacation time is, I’d book in advance both where it’s required (as soon as your dates are firm) and where it will save time in a long line (in some cases, you can do this even on the day you plan to visit).
You’ll generally be emailed a digital ticket with a code that you’ll store on your phone to scan at the entrance (if you prefer, you can print it out). At the sight, look for the ticket-holders line rather than the ticket-buying line; you may still have to wait in a security line.
Sightseeing Pass
The Heritage Card gets you into more than 45 historical monuments, gardens, and parks maintained by the Office of Public Works (OPW) in the Republic of Ireland. It pays off if you visit at least eight included sights (€40; seniors age 60 and older-€30, students-€10, families-€90, valid one year, includes handy map and list of sights’ hours and prices, purchase at first Heritage sight you visit, some sights take cash only, +353 1 647 6592, www.heritageireland.ie, heritagecard@opw.ie). Those traveling by car are most likely to get their money’s worth out of the card. The card covers no sights in Northern Ireland.
Note that scheduled tours given by OPW guides at the covered sights are included with your Heritage Card.
AT SIGHTS
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
A few sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check day packs and coats. (If you’d rather not check your day pack, try carrying it tucked under your arm as you enter.)
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Tours: In Ireland, many sights (from museums to stony ruins) offer a 45-minute guided tour. This is typically included in your ticket and well worth taking—the guides are usually excellent and have a gift for greatly deepening your appreciation for the sight. Tours are typically offered a few times per day; it’s wise to check ahead to find out the schedule and plan accordingly.
Audioguides and Apps: Some sights offer audioguides with recorded descriptions. Often you’ll use free Wi-Fi to download the tour to your mobile device on the spot; less frequently you’ll borrow or rent a device preloaded with the audio content at the museum. Bring your own plug-in earbuds to enjoy better sound (with a splitter, two can often share one rented device).
Expect Changes: Artwork and artifacts can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria. Especially in remote countryside areas, this can be your best bet for a quick, efficient lunch between sightseeing stops. The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.
Sleeping
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to sightseeing.
My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for Irish traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and a fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. Also reserve in advance for Dublin for any weekend, for Galway during its many peak-season events, and for Dingle throughout July and August. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in Ireland.
Some people make reservations a few days ahead as they travel. This approach fosters spontaneity, and booking sites make it easy to find available rooms, but—especially during busy times—you run the risk of settling for lesser-value accommodations.
The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland have banned smoking in the workplace (pubs, offices, taxicabs, etc.), but some hotels may still have a floor or two of rooms where guests are allowed to smoke. To avoid getting a smoking room, let the hotelier know when you make your reservation. All of my recommended B&Bs prohibit smoking.
Loud and rowdy Irish stag/hen (bachelor/bachelorette) parties are plentiful on weekends. If you’re a light sleeper, bring earplugs and think twice before booking a weekend room in a hotel with a pub on the ground floor. Steer clear of establishments that trumpet “stags and hens welcome” on their websites.
RATES AND DEALS
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant.
Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking hotel websites and booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself, by phone, email, or on the hotel’s website. This increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). When you book direct, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites—in exchange, ask if they can give you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included).
Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this book by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show this book upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS
Ireland has a rating system for hotels and B&Bs. These stars and shamrocks are supposed to imply quality, but I find that they mean only that the place sporting symbols is paying dues to the tourist board. These rating systems often have little to do with value or quality.
Hotels
Note that to be called a “hotel” in Ireland, a place must have certain amenities, including a 24-hour reception (though this rule is loosely applied). An “en suite” room has a bathroom (toilet and shower/tub) inside the room; a room with a “private bathroom” can mean that the bathroom is all yours, but it’s across the hall.
Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.
Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. If stairs are unavoidable, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up.
Most European countries require hotels to collect your name, nationality, and passport number. At check-in, the receptionist might ask for your passport and may keep it for several hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to give them instead.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
Some B&Bs and smaller hotels use self-check-in, where you’ll be sent an access code to let yourself into your room.
In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV and free Wi-Fi, which can vary in strength and quality. Simpler places rarely have a room phone.
Breakfast and Meals: Many small hotels and B&Bs serve a hearty “Irish fry” breakfast (more about B&B breakfasts later). Because B&B owners are often also the cooks, there’s usually a limited time span when breakfast is served (typically about an hour, starting at about 8:00). Some B&Bs no longer offer a cooked breakfast; instead, they leave a basic continental breakfast in your room (coffee or tea, fruit, shrink-wrapped pastries) or don’t offer breakfast at all. If you have your heart set on a traditional Irish breakfast, look for a place that still offers a “cooked breakfast.”
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.
If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a rowdy pub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. Pubs are plentiful and packed with revelers on weekend nights.
To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I rarely bother to use one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel or B&B is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
Small Hotels and B&Bs
B&Bs range from large guesthouses with 10-15 rooms to small homes renting out a couple of spare bedrooms, but typically have six rooms or fewer. A “townhouse” or “house” is like a big B&B or a small family-run hotel—with fewer amenities but more character than a hotel. The philosophy of the management determines the character of a place more than its size and amenities. I avoid places run as a business by absentee owners. My top listings are run by people who enjoy welcoming their guests.
Compared to hotels, B&Bs and guesthouses give you double the cultural intimacy for a fraction of the price. While you may lose some of the conveniences of a hotel—such as fancy lobbies and frequent bedsheet changes—I happily make the trade-off for the personal touches, whether it’s joining my hosts for afternoon tea or relaxing by a common fireplace at the end of the day. If you have a reasonable but limited budget, skip hotels and go the B&B way.
B&B proprietors are selective about the guests they invite in for the night. Many do not welcome children. In popular weekend-getaway spots, you’re unlikely to find a place to take you for Saturday night only. Many B&B owners are also pet owners. If you’re allergic, ask about resident pets when you reserve.
Rules and Etiquette: B&Bs and small hotels come with their own etiquette and quirks. Keep in mind that owners are at the whim of their guests—if you’re getting up early, so are they; if you check in late, they’ll wait up for you. Most B&Bs have set check-in times (usually in the late afternoon). If arriving outside that time, they will want to know when to expect you (call or email ahead). Most will let you check in earlier if the room is available (or they’ll at least let you drop off your bag).
B&Bs and small hotels often come with thin walls and doors, and sometimes creaky floorboards and stairs, which can make for a noisy night. If you’re a light sleeper, bring earplugs. And please be quiet in the halls and in your rooms at night...those of us getting up early will thank you for it.
Many B&Bs and guesthouses serve a hearty “Irish Fry” breakfast (see “Eating,” later in this chapter). Let your host know which parts of the “fry” you don’t want. It’s an unwritten rule that guests shouldn’t show up at the very end of the breakfast period and expect a full cooked breakfast. If you do arrive late (or need to leave before breakfast is served), most establishments are happy to let you help yourself to cereal, fruit, juice, and coffee.
As noted earlier, some B&Bs no longer offer the second “B”—or you may get a continental breakfast rather than a fully cooked one. “Self-catering” is code for “you’re on your own for breakfast.”
In the Room: Some B&Bs stock rooms with an electric kettle, along with cups, tea bags, and coffee packets.
Hang towels up to dry and reuse. Many Irish B&Bs don’t provide washcloths. If your electrical appliance isn’t working, flip the switch at the outlet to turn on the current.
You’re likely to encounter unusual bathroom fixtures. The “pump toilet” has a flushing handle or button that doesn’t kick in unless you push it just right: too hard or too soft, and it won’t go. (Be decisive but not ruthless.) Most B&B baths have an instant water heater. This looks like an electronic box under the showerhead with dials and buttons: One control adjusts the heat, while another turns the flow off and on (let the water run for a bit to moderate the temperature before you hop in). If the shower looks mysterious, ask your B&B host for help...before you take off your clothes.
Paying: Many B&Bs take credit cards, but may add the card service fee to your bill (about 3 percent). If you do need to pay cash for your room, plan ahead so you have enough on hand when you check out.
Modern Hotel Chains
Chain hotels—common in Ireland’s bigger cities—can be a great value. These hotels are about as cozy as a Motel 6, but they come with private showers/WCs, elevators, good security, and often an attached restaurant. Branches are often located near the train station, on major highways, or outside the city center.
This option is especially worth considering for families, as kids often stay for free. While most of these hotels have 24-hour reception and elevators, breakfast and Wi-Fi generally cost extra, and the service lacks a personal touch (at some, you’ll check in at a self-service kiosk).
Room rates change from day to day with volume and vary depending on how far ahead you book. The best deals generally must be prepaid a few weeks ahead and may not be refundable—read the fine print carefully.
The biggies are Leonardo Hotels (formerly called Jurys Inn; call their hotels directly or book online at www.leonardohotels.co.uk), Clarion/Quality Inns (US +1 877 424 6423, www.choicehotels.com), and Travelodge (also has freeway locations for tired drivers, reservation center in Britain +44 8700 850 950, www.travelodge.co.uk).
Short-Term Rentals
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, a house, or a room in a private residence—is a popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and VRBO let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com and RentaVilla.com can provide a more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive). Both of Ireland’s tourism websites (www.discoverireland.ie and www.discovernorthernireland.com) are reliable sources for rentals.
Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to public transportation, and how well connected the property is to the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-con, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
The stone castles that dot the Irish landscape are some of the most famous and evocative in the world. Built in the 11th to the 16th century, they were the fortified homes of Anglo-Norman settlers and Irish chieftains, designed for defense. Modern-day visitors can get an intimate feel for medieval Irish life by spending the night in one of these fortresses of yore.
These are not modern imitations, but the real thing (though sometimes heavily modified). The true-to-history castle lodgings are rustic, isolated tower houses, while the modified ones are fancy mansion splurges. Either way, don’t be swept away with frilly Camelot film-set expectations.
For an authentic experience, search out a real tower-house castle built by native Gaelic lords in the 1400s. Usually four to six stories high, these age-old fortifications sleep from 8 to 12 (3-night minimum stay). A visiting cook may prepare meals, but all have self-catering kitchens.
Authenticity comes with surprises, such as the occasional spider, drafty windowsill, or flake of medieval dust sprinkling down from original wicker-imprinted ceilings. Canopy beds protect you as you sleep...just like the lord and lady 600 years ago. You’ll carry your bags up tight stone stairways and may have to share a bathroom. Wi-Fi may not be able to handle the three-foot-thick walls, so unplug for a few days. However, floor heating and electric lights take the edge off “roughing it.”
These remote castles don’t come with fancy landscaping—your windows will likely overlook bogs or grazing land. Get clear directions and be sure to arrive in daylight. Prices vary wildly depending on number of nights and time of year (and require 50 percent advance deposit). Figure €1,800 for three nights and up to €4,500 for a week (give or take a crown jewel). Split that cost by 10 friends and you’ve got the recipe for a unique, good-value evening à la the 15th century. Light the candles, stoke up the fireplace, and uncork the wine—a convivial night in a castle can be truly magical. Three well worth considering can be found at www.celticcastles.com.
Ballyportry Castle (10 miles north of Ennis in County Clare, www.ballyportry.ie) was built by a branch of the O’Brien family in the 15th century.
Turin Castle (9 miles east of Cong in County Mayo, turincastle.com) was built by the powerful De Burgo family in the 13th century.
Ballybur Castle (5 miles south of Kilkenny town in County Kilkenny, www.ballyburcastle.com) was built in the 16th century as the seat of the Comerford clan.
Despite their castle-like exteriors, these fancy versions are plush, pampered estates with spas and golf courses. They have all the comforts and then some. The current structure may indeed include a smaller fortified castle that once stood alone hundreds of years ago. But then wealthy Romantic-age Anglo-Irish aristocrats built luxurious additions and surrounded them with lush gardens and gurgling fountains. Real fortified castles would never have had the vulnerable ground-floor bay windows seen on palaces today.
Don’t expect basic room prices below €500 per night (and they may be more than twice that in summer). The upside? A chance to live like a privileged character in a Victorian novel for a day or two. A couple to consider:
Dromoland Castle (8 miles south of Ennis or 9 miles north of Shannon Airport, www.dromoland.ie) once secretly hosted Beatles John and George as they attempted to hide out during the height of Beatlemania.
Ashford Castle (28 miles north of Galway near the town of Cong, www.ashfordcastle.com) has hosted Ron and Nancy Reagan, John Wayne, Brad Pitt, and Jack Nicholson, and the weddings of Pierce Brosnan and champion golfer Rory McIlroy.
Think about the kind of experience you want: just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self-check-in and minimal contact; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require payment in full before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place for several nights, it’s worth considering an apartment—sometimes called a “flat” in Ireland—or rental house. These can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. Apartments in Ireland, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.
Rooms in Private Homes: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some are interested in getting to know the travelers who pass through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Irish people). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com.
Hostels
Ireland has hundreds of hostels of all shapes and sizes. Choose yours selectively; hostels can be historic castles or depressing tenements, serene and comfy or overrun by noisy school groups.
A hostel provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required, www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Ireland’s Independent Holiday Hostels (www.hostels-ireland.com [URL inactive]) is a network of independent hostels, requiring no membership and welcoming all ages. All IHH hostels are approved by Fáilte Ireland.
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share a booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.
Eating
Modern Irish cuisine is delicious and varied, with more and more international influences. Irish beef, lamb, and dairy products are among Europe’s best. And there are streams full of trout and salmon and a rich ocean of fish and shellfish right offshore. While potatoes remain staples, they’re often replaced with rice or pasta in many dishes. Modern places almost always have a serious vegetarian main dish. Try the local specialties wherever you eat.
For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not tourists. Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
Tipping: See here for advice.
RESTAURANT PRICING AND HOURS
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a taste of the local cuisine at a reasonable price.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries typically have an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and refined cuisine.
At classier restaurants, look for “early-bird specials” (sometimes called “pre-theater menus”), which allow you to eat well and affordably, but early (about 17:30-18:00 or 18:30). Cafés are typically open daily for lunch, while restaurants may be open just for dinner, or also for lunch (more common on weekends); I’ve noted exceptions.
BREAKFAST
The traditional breakfast, the “Irish Fry” (known in the north as the “Ulster Fry”), is a hearty way to start the day—with juice, tea or coffee, cereal, eggs, bacon, sausage, a grilled tomato, sautéed mushrooms, and optional black pudding (made from pigs’ blood). Toast is served with butter and marmalade. Home-baked Irish soda bread can be an ambrosial eye-opener for those of us raised on Wonder Bread.
PICNICS
Picnicking saves time and money. Try boxes of orange juice (pure, by the liter), fresh bread (especially Irish soda bread), tasty Cashel blue cheese, meat, a tube of mustard, local eatin’ apples, bananas, small tomatoes, a small tub of yogurt (it’s drinkable), rice crackers, trail mix or nuts, plain digestive biscuits (the chocolate-covered ones melt), and any local specialties. At open-air markets and supermarkets, you can get produce in small quantities. Supermarkets often have good deli sections, packaged sandwiches, and sometimes salad bars.
If you’re driving, pull over and grab a healthy snack at a roadside stand (Ireland’s climate is ideal for strawberries).
PUBS
Pubs are a cornerstone of the Irish social scene, and whether you’re a teetotaler or a beer guzzler, they should be a part of your Ireland experience. Whether in rural villages or busy Dublin, a pub (short for “public house”) is an extended living room where, if you don’t mind the stickiness, you can feel the pulse of Ireland. You’ll find the most traditional and atmospheric pubs in Ireland’s countryside and smaller towns.
Smart travelers use pubs to eat, drink, get out of the rain, watch the latest sporting event, and make new friends. You’re a guest on your first night; after that, you’re a regular.
Every year on March 17, bars around the US serve pint after pint of green beer. But if you go to Ireland on Saint Patrick’s Day, the beer is never green. It’s black—or actually “dark ruby,” according to the Guinness Brewery.
In 1759, Arthur Guinness signed an astounding 9,000-year lease on a dilapidated Dublin brewery. The rent: £45 a year. Competition was fierce among Dublin brewers, and friends of the 34-year-old entrepreneur thought his idea was ridiculous. He began pumping out two varieties of beer: an ale, and a darker “stout porter,” so named because it was popular among porters in London. Against big odds, his dark beer thrived. By 1868, Guinness had the largest brewery in the world.
Today, Guinness remains one of the world’s largest beer producers, with breweries in 50 countries. Around the world, 10 million pints of Guinness stout are consumed each day (with a few extra on St. Patrick’s Day).
Over the years, a clever ad campaign has helped fuel the beer’s success. In the 1930s, the brewery was known for its animal cartoons (many by illustrator John Gilroy) that featured simple but catchy slogans such as, “Guinness is good for you,” “Have a Guinness when you’re tired,” and “My goodness, my Guinness!”
Guinness stout is known for its dark color and creamy white head. The color and slightly burnt flavor come from roasting the barley before the beer is brewed. The beer is carbonated with nitrous oxide in addition to the usual carbon dioxide, producing the thick white foam on top. The head itself is bitter, while the beer beneath is sweet. Rather than sipping the less tasty head, really nuzzle in through that foam to make sure you’re getting to the sweet, sweet beer. That’s why properly drinking a Guinness leaves a “moustache” on your lip. Traditionally, Guinness is served at a slightly warmer temperature than most ales and lagers.
Because of the high carbonation, pouring a Guinness takes skill, and ordering one takes patience. To tap a perfect pint, Guinness instructs bartenders to use a “two-part pour.” The glass should be tilted at a 45-degree angle and filled to three-quarters capacity. Then you wait for the surge of bubbles beneath the foam to settle before the glass is filled to the brim. The overall process takes about two minutes.
In 2020, the company unveiled Guinness 0.0, a non-alcoholic version (sold by the can, rarely found on draft) that replicates the Guinness experience for teetotalers and designated drivers.
Craic (pronounced “crack”), Irish for “fun” or “a good laugh,” is the sport that accompanies drinking in a pub. To encourage conversation, stand or sit at the bar, not at a table.
It’s a tradition to buy your table a round, and then for each person to reciprocate. If an Irish person buys you a drink, thank them by saying, “Go raibh maith agat” (guh rov mah UG-ut). Offer them a toast in Irish—“Slainte” (SLAWN-chuh, the equivalent of “cheers”).
Pubs are generally open from 11:00 or 12:00 until 23:30. They stay open later Fridays and Saturdays but close earlier on Sundays (about 22:30). Children are generally welcome before 20:00 (sometimes in specific sections). You must be at least 18 to order a beer.
There’s seldom table service; order drinks and meals at the bar. Pay as you order, and only tip (by rounding up to avoid excess coinage) if you like the service.
All pubs in the Republic are smoke-free but have covered smoking patios.
Pub Grub: Pub grub is Ireland’s best eating value (although not every pub serves food; some offer only peanuts and potato chips). Pubs that are attached to restaurants are more likely to have fresh, made-to-order food. But don’t expect high cuisine; this is, after all, comfort food. For about $20, you’ll get a basic meal in friendly surroundings.
Pub menus offer a hearty assortment of traditional dishes, such as Irish stew (mutton with mashed potatoes, onions, carrots, and herbs), soups and chowders, coddle (bacon, pork sausages, potatoes, and onions stewed in layers), fish-and-chips, collar and cabbage (boiled bacon coated in bread crumbs and brown sugar, then baked and served with cabbage), boxty (potato pancake filled with fish, meat, or vegetables), and champ (potato mashed with milk and onions). Chicken goujons are what we’d call chicken fingers. Irish soda bread nicely rounds out a meal. In coastal areas, try seafood, such as mackerel, mussels, and Atlantic salmon.
Beer: The Irish take great pride in their beer. Guinness is the default choice in an Irish pub, dark in color and with a creamy head. If you think you don’t like Guinness, try it in Ireland. It doesn’t travel well and tastes better in its homeland.
For a small beer, ask for a glass, which is a half-pint. Stout is dark and more bitter, like Guinness (Murphy’s is a good one, a bit smoother and milder than Guinness). For a cold, refreshing, basic, American-style beer, ask for a lager, such as Harp. The ales vary from sweet to bitter, and often have a hoppy or nutty flavor (I swear by Smithwick’s). Caffrey’s is a satisfying cross between stout and ale. Craft microbrews are beginning to make inroads in Ireland (check www.beoir.org for options).
Other Pub Drinks: Try the draft cider (sweet or dry)...carefully. The most common spirit is triple-distilled Irish whiskey.
Staying Connected
A mobile device is an indispensable tool for efficient travel. Fortunately, staying connected in Europe gets less complicated (and less expensive) each year. You can use your devices much like you do at home, by either getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.
Because dialing instructions vary between the Republic and Northern Ireland, carefully read the “How to Dial” sidebar on here.
USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers unlimited text and low-speed data, plus reasonable per-minute voice calls).
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. Turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) only when you can’t find Wi-Fi.
Save large-data tasks for Wi-Fi. If your included data is slow or metered, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype or FaceTime, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off.
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, FaceTime, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. WhatsApp is especially popular throughout Ireland and Europe, and is often the easiest way to communicate with guides, drivers, or other local contacts.
Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls, need a local phone number, or your provider’s international data rates are expensive, consider getting a European SIM card to replace the one in your (unlocked) device.
SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters and some newsstands (you may need to show your passport), and vending machines. If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop. Some newer devices may also allow you to download an eSIM from an international provider.
Here’s how to dial from anywhere in the US or Europe, using the phone numbers of recommended hotels in Dublin (01 614 6500) and Belfast (028 9027 1066) as examples. If a number starts with 0, drop it when dialing internationally (except when calling Italy).
Phone numbers in this book are presented exactly as you would dial them, from any location, with a US mobile phone. For international access, press and hold the 0 (zero) to get a + sign, then dial the country code (353 for the Republic of Ireland, 44 for Northern Ireland) and phone number.
To call the Dublin hotel from any location, dial +353 1 614 6500.
To call the Belfast hotel, dial +44 28 9027 1066.
Replace + with 011 (US/Canada access code), then dial the country code (353 for the Republic of Ireland, 44 for Northern Ireland) and phone number.
To call the Dublin hotel from your home landline, dial 011 353 1 614 6500.
To call the Belfast hotel, dial 011 44 28 9027 1066.
Replace + with 00 (Europe access code), then dial the country code (353 for the Republic of Ireland, 44 for Northern Ireland, 1 for the US) and phone number.
To call the Dublin hotel from a European landline (including Northern Ireland), dial 00 353 1 614 6500.
To call the Belfast hotel from a European landline (outside the Republic of Ireland), dial 00 44 28 9027 1066. To call from a Republic landline, see next page.
To call my US office from any Irish landline, dial 00 1 425 771 8303.
To call within the Republic of Ireland or within Northern Ireland on a landline, drop +353 or +44 and dial the phone number (including the initial 0). To call a Northern Ireland landline from a Republic of Ireland landline, replace 028 with 048.
To call the Dublin hotel from Dingle, dial 01 614 6500.
To call the Belfast hotel from Derry, dial 028 9027 1066.
To call the Belfast hotel from a Dublin landline, dial 048 9027 1066.
Local Numbers: European phone numbers and area codes can vary in length and spacing, even within the same country. Mobile phones use separate prefixes (for instance, in the Republic, mobile numbers begin with 08, and in Northern Ireland, they begin with 07).
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: It’s generally not possible to dial European toll or toll-free numbers from a US mobile or landline (although you can sometimes get through using Skype). Look for a direct-dial number instead.
Calling the US from a US Mobile Phone, While Abroad: Dial +1, area code, and number.
More Phoning Help: See HowToCallAbroad.com.
There are generally no roaming charges when using a European SIM card in other EU countries, but confirm when you buy.
Damage Control for Lost Phones: Losing your phone can be a significant inconvenience. Before you leave home, make sure your device is set up for automatic cloud backups, and enable the “find my phone” feature (make sure you have access to it from another device, like your travel partner’s phone or a laptop). Familiarize yourself with your phone’s “lost and lock” mode, which you should enable from another device if it goes missing. Report the loss to your mobile carrier; if your phone remains lost, use the “wipe” feature to erase its data.
For details on sending packages to your own home or to others, visit www.cbp.gov, then select “Travel” and “Know Before You Go.” The Irish postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com). Get stamps at the neighborhood post office, newsstands within fancy hotels, and some minimarts and card shops. Don’t use stamps from the Republic of Ireland on postcards mailed in Northern Ireland (part of the UK), and vice versa.
Transportation
For getting around Ireland, you have two main choices: public transportation or car.
It’s possible to see many locations—especially cities and larger towns—by train and bus, which is cost-effective if a bit slower. A few bigger destinations (Dublin, Belfast, Galway, Cork, Limerick, Westport) are relatively well connected. However, some of the most appealing small towns (including Dingle, Doolin, Kinsale, and Kenmare) take more effort and time, often requiring multiple changes. Departures can be infrequent (especially on weekends); plus because of the hub-and-spokes nature of the Irish transit map, once you’re out of Dublin, connecting the dots around Ireland’s perimeter can get complicated. Also, Ireland has an abundance of countryside sights that are all but impossible to reach without your own wheels: Dingle’s Slea Head, the Ring of Kerry, the Burren, the Antrim Coast, County Donegal, Boyne Valley, and others are not even worth attempting unless you’re driving.
For all of these reasons, and for maximum efficiency, I heavily favor renting a car if you’d like to see a full range of Irish destinations. While first-timers may be intimidated by the idea of driving on the left, it’s pretty easy once you try it—and much of the driving is on rural roads with light traffic. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside.
I’ve included a sample itinerary for drivers (with tips and tweaks for those using public transportation) to help you explore Ireland smoothly (see here).
If you are using public transportation, the best overall source for schedules in both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland—including rail, cross-country and city buses, and Dublin’s LUAS transit—is the Republic of Ireland’s DiscoverIreland.ie (select “Getting Around” near the bottom of the home page).
For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.
TRAINS
To research Irish rail connections for the Republic of Ireland, use IrishRail.ie (prices in euros). For Northern Ireland, use Translink.co.uk (prices in pounds). The only connection covered on both sites is the train between Dublin and Belfast; buy tickets from the country you are departing. For train schedules on the rest of the European continent, check Bahn.com (Germany’s excellent Europe-wide timetable).
In the Republic of Ireland, it really pays to buy your train tickets online ahead of time. Advance-purchase discounts of up to 50 percent are common, but unpredictable. Online and off, fares are often higher for peak travel on Fridays and Sundays. Irish Rail tickets are sold only for specific dates and times but can be exchanged, as long as they haven’t been printed from a ticket collection machine and downloaded QR-code tickets have not been scanned in the station (deadlines and fees vary; 1-48 hours ahead, depending on fare type). “Return” (round-trip) tickets can be cheaper than two “single” (one-way) tickets, especially a “same-day return.” Booking ahead online (up to 60 minutes before departure) can also help you avoid long ticket lines in Dublin and elsewhere at busy times. A few smaller town stations have no ticket sales available, requiring you to book online.
For trains within Northern Ireland, it’s standard to buy tickets in stations (or onboard if boarding at a small station that doesn’t sell tickets). You can also buy and activate tickets in Translink’s mLink app. Web Saver discount tickets can save you up to 50 percent on specific departures but must be purchased at least 24 hours in advance and are not refundable or changeable. Used primarily by commuters, unlimited daily, weekly, or monthly iLink Travelcards (valid for train and bus within Northern Ireland, separated into five regional zones) are sold in main stations and a few TIs (and online for home delivery in Ireland only). The one-day version can cost just a few pounds more than a one-way ticket.
Will you be better off buying a rail pass or point-to-point tickets? It pays to know your options and choose what’s best for your itinerary.
A Eurail Ireland Pass lets you travel by train in Ireland for three to eight days (north or south, consecutively or not) within a onemonth period. Ireland is also covered (along with Britain and most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass. Discounted rates are offered for seniors (age 60 and up) and youths (ages 12-27). Up to two kids (ages 4-11) can travel free with each adult-rate pass (but not with senior rates). All passes offer a choice of first or second class for all ages.
In addition, Irish Rail sells a rail pass that’s good for four consecutive days or five days of train travel in the Republic of Ireland within a 15-day period. This pass can be purchased at rail ticket offices in Ireland.
While most rail passes are delivered electronically, it’s smart to get your pass sorted before leaving home. For more on rail passes, including current prices and purchasing, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
In Ireland, buying tickets as you go works fine for both rail and bus. Use this map to add up approximate fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass. The rates here require purchase online; additional discounts may be available with advance purchase.
Map shows approximate costs, in US dollars, for one-way, second-class tickets purchased online at least 60 minutes before departure.
Be aware that very few Irish train stations have storage lockers.
Rail Passes: For most travelers in Ireland, a rail pass is not very useful. Trains fan out from Dublin to major cities but neglect much of the countryside. But if a pass works for your itinerary, keep in mind that Eurail passes cover all trains in both the Republic and Northern Ireland, and give a 30 percent discount on standard foot-passenger fares for some international ferries. Pass holders can make free seat assignments on Irish Rail by selecting the option for “Free Travel Pass or Valid Ticket Holders” (required on InterCity services until further notice). Irish Rail also offers an Explorer pass covering five days of travel within a 15-day period in the Republic only (purchase at any major rail station in Ireland, www.irishrail.ie). For more detailed advice on train travel options in Ireland, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
Discounts: The Transport for Ireland Leap Cards for a child (16-18), young adult (19-23), or student (includes older students with proof of enrollment) provide 50 percent discounts on trains and cross-country coaches. Apply at www.leapcard.ie, allowing time for home delivery by mail, and pay a €5 refundable deposit for the smartcard technology. In Northern Ireland, ages 16-23 can apply for the free yLink discount card. Children 5-15 pay half-price on trains without any special card, and wee ones under age 5 go free.
International SailRail Discounts: Deals sold by Irishferries.com combine a ferry ride with connecting trains in Ireland and the UK at a price (but not a speed) that rivals the budget airlines (also sold in the largest Irish Rail stations and available to/from the port of Cherbourg, France).
BUSES
Public transit (especially cross-country Irish buses) will likely put your travels in slow motion. Although buses are about a third slower than trains, they’re also a lot cheaper, and can be more direct. A combination of train and bus works best for many routes.
The Irish distinguish between “buses” (for in-city travel with lots of stops) and “coaches” (long-distance cross-country runs). Note that some rural coach stops are by request only. This means the coach will drive right on by unless you flag it down.
Bus stations are normally at or near train stations. On some Irish buses, sporting events are piped throughout the bus; have earplugs handy if you prefer a quieter ride.
Bus Éireann Expressway is the main bus company in the Republic (www.buseireann.ie); Translink serves Northern Ireland (www.translink.co.uk). Dublin Coach covers Dublin, Ennis, Killarney, Tralee, Kildare, Kilkenny, Waterford, and Belfast (www.dublincoach.ie, book online at least three hours ahead or pay with credit card onboard). And Aircoach connects Dublin Airport with both Dublin and Belfast (www.aircoach.ie).
Backpacker Bus Tours: Paddy Wagon offers two- to nine-day tours of Ireland geared toward thrifty hostelers (+353 1 823 0822, www.paddywagontours.com). They also offer day tours to the Giant’s Causeway, Belfast, Cliffs of Moher, Glendalough, and Kilkenny.
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Most taxis in Ireland are reliable and affordable. Often, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. Many people here still call a local company to summon a cab or, in larger cities, they go to a taxi stand.
Ride-hailing apps, such as FreeNow and Uber, are useful in some cities (especially Dublin)—but they simply summon a standard taxi. Your cabbie will run the meter, then plug in your fare at the end to pay through the app. Because not every driver uses these apps (FreeNow is more widely used than Uber), you may wind up waiting longer than if you’d simply called or found a taxi stand.
PRIVATE DRIVER
While not cheap, hiring a private driver can make sense, particularly if you’re traveling with a group. One solid outfit worth considering is Fitzpatrick Coaches, based in Monaghan but available to drive anywhere in Ireland (+353 47 82331, mobile +353 87 273 1396, www.fitzpatrickcoaches.com). They have vans (up to 7 passengers) and coaches of various sizes.
RENTING A CAR
Travelers from North America are understandably hesitant when they consider driving in Ireland, where you must drive on the left side of the road. The Irish government statistics say that 10 percent of all car accidents on Irish soil involve a foreign tourist. But careful drivers—with the patient support of an alert navigator—usually get the hang of it by the end of the first day.
It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Ireland. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (www.autoeurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper www.autoeurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal. Or go with a local company: The user-friendly My Irish Cousin works with larger partners, but offers a personal touch in its communications and simple, all-inclusive pricing (www.myirishcousin.com).
Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
Rental Costs and Considerations
If you book well in advance, expect to pay $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car with minimum insurance (not including fuel, tolls, and parking). You’ll pay more for an automatic or for supplemental insurance. Smaller economy-size cars cost about $50 less per week. Minibuses are a good, budget way to go for larger groups (five to nine people). To save money on fuel, request a diesel car.
Manual vs. Automatic: Cars with manual transmission are more common in Europe and generally cheaper than automatic. If you need an automatic, it’s wise to book well in advance. An automatic makes sense for most American drivers: With a manual transmission in Ireland, you’ll be sitting on the right side of the car and shifting with your left hand...while driving on the left side of the road. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.
Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car-rental websites. In the Republic of Ireland, you generally can’t rent a car if you’re 75 or older, and you’ll usually pay an extra €25 per day insurance surcharge if you’re 70-74. Some companies in Northern Ireland won’t rent to anyone over 69.
Choosing Pickup/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.
Crossing Borders in a Rental Car: You can drive your rental car from the Republic of Ireland into Northern Ireland, but will pay a drop-off charge (it could be $200 or more) if you return it across the border from where you rented it. You’ll pay a smaller drop-off charge (as much as $100) for picking up and returning the car from different locations, even within the same city. If you pick up the car in a smaller city, you’ll more likely survive your first day on the Irish roads. If you drop the car off early or keep it longer, you’ll be credited or charged at a fair, prorated price.
Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, GPS, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.
Car Insurance Options
When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card, or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy (though the last two options are often not available in Ireland).
Basic CDW costs $15-30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. Tires and wheel rims are usually excluded from this coverage. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
Be aware that if you opt out of insurance—intending to use your credit card for coverage—your rental company may place a large hold on your card. If you have a tight credit limit, consider this when booking—or you may have to pay for extra insurance when you show up to get your car.
For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.
This Irish tourism marketing initiative offers drivers “the world’s longest defined touring route.” Stretching 1,550 miles (2,500 km) from Kinsale in the south to Derry in the north, the Wild Atlantic Way snakes along the inlets and outcrops of Ireland’s west coast, passing through nine counties and bagging some of the best coastal views along the way. This is the scenic, long-way-around route for travelers not in a hurry. You’ll frequently see signs with a large blue “WAW” meant to symbolize waves, which tells you that you’re driving on a section of the route (www.wildatlanticway.com).
Navigation Options
If you’ll be navigating using your phone, remember to bring a car charger. Most rental cars are equipped with a USB port so you can run your phone’s GPS through the dashboard display, but it can also be smart to bring a device mount.
Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Ireland’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—provide offline route directions, but you’ll need data access for current traffic. For more on using a mapping app, see “Using Your Phone in Europe,” earlier.
GPS Devices: Most cars come with a dedicated GPS unit, though it’s sometimes an odd-on cost (about $15-20/day). The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask.
Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with GPS, I always have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a road atlas that covers all of Ireland. Ordnance Survey atlases are best (sold affordably in gas stations and bookstores). Drivers, hikers, and cyclists may want more detailed maps for Dingle, Connemara, Donegal, Wexford, the Antrim Coast, the Ring of Kerry, and the Boyne Valley (easy to buy locally at bookstores or gas stations).
Driving
Ireland’s motorways link most major cities (Dublin, Belfast, Cork, Waterford, Limerick, and Galway). But many sights require driving on narrow country lanes.
An Irish Automobile Association membership comes with most rentals (www.theaa.ie). Understand its towing and emergency road-service benefits.
Road Rules: Driving in Ireland is basically wonderful—once you remember to stay on the left and have mastered the roundabouts. (When getting used to driving on the left, it helps to remember that the driver is always in the center of the road.) At roundabouts, the flowing traffic has the right-of-way; entering traffic yields (look to your right as you merge). As you approach bigger roundabouts, look for instructions on the pavement that indicate which lane to be in for your destination.
Driving gives you access to the most rural sights and is my favorite mode of transportation in Ireland. In addition to our general driving advice within this chapter, here’s what I’ve learned in the school of hard brakes and adrenaline rushes.
Study your map before taking off. Get a sense of the areas you’ll be visiting, as road numbers are inconsistent. The shortest distance between any two points is usually the motorway (highway). But miss a motorway exit and you can lose 20 minutes.
Estimate an average speed of 40 mph (1 km per minute). Find distances and driving times on the driving chart in this chapter or check online (www.google.com/maps or www.viamichelin.com).
In the Republic, the speed limit is in kilometers per hour and the roads can be bumpy, narrow, and winding. In Northern Ireland, the speed limit is in miles per hour and roads are better maintained.
Adjust and use your side-view mirrors. Get comfortable with the sound of vegetation whisking the side of your car on narrow roads.
Diesel fuel pumps (which are usually green in the US) are black in Ireland. Be clear on which type of gas you need.
If you have a disabled parking card, bring it. For information on disabled parking, call the Irish Wheelchair Association at +353 18 186 400.
Get an early start. Rushing makes you miss turns, which causes stress, which makes your trip feel less like a vacation.
Enlist passengers to help navigate: Road signs can be confusing, too little, and too late.
Get used to shifting with your left hand. Find reverse...before you need it. (I love the smell of burnt clutch in the morning.)
Avoid driving in big cities; use ring roads to skirt the congestion. Check real-time traffic conditions on Google Maps before venturing out.
On narrow rural roads, pull over at a marked pullout and blink your headlights to signal faster drivers to pass. Buses have the right of way on rural roads.
Expect a slow tractor, a flock of sheep, a one-lane bridge, or a baby stroller to lurk around each blind turn. Honk when approaching blind corners to alert approaching drivers.
Don’t drink and drive. The Garda (police) set up random checkpoints. If you’ve had more than one pint, you’re legally drunk in Ireland.
Tune in to RTE Radio 1, the national radio station (89 FM), for an education in Irish culture (see here). The same goes for BBC Ulster (94.5 FM) in Northern Ireland.
If you’re concerned about wayfinding, you could spend a little time using Google’s Street View option to actually see 360-degree views of the roads you’ll be driving and how to access lodging or sightseeing you’re considering. An advance peek online can settle the nerves of twitchy drivers and give you a heads-up on navigational issues you hadn’t thought of yet.
Be warned: Every year I get a few emails from traveling readers advising me that, for them, trying to drive in Ireland was a nerve-racking and regrettable mistake. If you want to get a little slack on the roads, try to time your car rental to begin on a Sunday morning when you can acclimate to driving on less congested roads at a mellower pace.
Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be on at all times, and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. In Ireland, you’re not allowed to turn left on a red light unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on motorways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the left. Seat belts are mandatory for all, and kids under 12 or under 1.5 meters tall (about 4 feet, 9 inches) must ride in a child-safety seat.
Ask your car-rental company about these rules, read the Department for Transport’s Highway Code (www.gov.uk/highway-code), or check the “International Travel” section at Travel.State.gov (enter Ireland in the “Learn About Your Destination” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”).
Speed Limits: Speed limits are 50 kilometers per hour (roughly 30 miles per hour) in towns, 80 kph (approximately 50 mph) on rural roads (such as R-257, R-600, etc.), 100 kph (about 60 mph) on national roads (N-8, N-30, etc.), and 120 kph (roughly 75 mph) on motorways (M-1, M-50, etc.). Note that road-surveillance cameras strictly enforce speed limits. Any driver (including foreigners renting cars) photographed speeding will get a nasty bill in the mail. (Cameras—you’ll see the foreboding gray boxes—flash on your rear license plate in order not to invade the privacy of anyone sharing the front seat with someone they shouldn’t be with.)
Tolls: Ireland has a variety of toll roads, where you’ll be charged (typically around €2-3) for the privilege of driving on a slick expressway. These roads mostly run outward from Dublin toward Waterford, Cork, Limerick, and Galway. Toll motorways are usually blue on maps and are shown with the letter “M” followed by the route number (toll prices and map: www.tii.ie/roads-tolling [URL inactive]).
In most cases, you have two ways to pay for tolls: Approaching the toll plaza, you can get in a lane for a typical tollbooth (pay by cash or credit card). The other option is to use an automated system called eFlow—a tag in your windshield that automatically pays the toll (simply slow down and drive through a designated eFlow lane). Some car-rental companies allow you to rent an eFlow tag, usually for a set price, covering all tolls throughout your trip. While convenient, this may wind up being slightly more expensive than paying as you go.
One unusual toll is the M-50 outerbelt near Dublin Airport—designed to charge visitors who are using the expressway on arrival and departure. For this €3.50 toll, there are no tollbooths at all; rather, a camera snaps a photo of your license plate to send you a bill. Ask your car-rental company how to handle this: Some of them will simply deduct the toll from your credit card, while others may require you to go to www.eflow.ie [URL inactive] to pay online (must pay by 20:00 the following evening to avoid an extra fee).
Parking: Street parking is confusing. One yellow line marked on the pavement means no parking Monday through Saturday during business hours. Double yellow lines mean no parking at any time. Broken yellow lines mean short stops are OK, but you should always look for explicit signs or ask a passerby. Signs along the street indicate whether an area uses pay-and-display (machines have a blue circle with white letter P) or parking discs (sold at nearby shops; buy one disc for each hour you want to stay, scratch off the time you arrived on the disc and put it on your dashboard). Even in small towns, rather than fight it, I just pull into the most central parking lot I can find.
FLIGHTS
To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: Easy-to-use Google Flights is the top site for flights to and within Europe, Kayak has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.
Flights to Ireland: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another.
Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet, Aer Lingus, or Ryanair. For flights within Ireland, try Aer Arann, a regional subsidiary of Aer Lingus. Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and a larger carbon footprint than a train or bus.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
Ireland’s Airports: There are four major airports planted in the four corners of the island of Ireland: Dublin (east), Cork (south), Shannon (west), and Belfast (north). If you only have a few days and are focused mainly on one region, investigate flying into that airport to save valuable time (rather than assuming Dublin is best because it’s biggest, then wasting half a day driving).
Direct flights from the US land in Dublin, Shannon, or Belfast. Cork has become a handy arrival point as well (via connecting flights from London). If you’re offered a choice and have no interest in sightseeing in busy, congested Dublin, you’ll find Shannon Airport to be a far less stressful entry or exit point into or out of Ireland. Drivers will especially appreciate getting used to the “other side of the road” around rural Shannon, as compared to urban Dublin. Be aware that smaller regional airports may have fewer car-rental offices.
If you’re connecting between Ireland and Britain or other parts of Europe, consider a smaller airport: Kerry, Knock, Donegal, Derry, or Belfast City.
Resources from Rick Steves
Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com
My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, beautiful photos, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and X (formerly Twitter).
Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/forums).
Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).
Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).
Rick Steves’ Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More
Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year more than 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to book a tour, visit RickSteves.com/tours or call us at +1 425 771 8303.
Books: This book is just one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket Guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows and Video Library: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year. Watch full episodes for free (RickSteves.com/tv). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (Classroom.RickSteves.com).
Monday Night Travel Talks: To raise your travel I.Q., join our virtual travel party every Monday featuring Rick Steves guides discussing European destinations, art, culture, food, travel tips, and more. Join the live events or check out the video recordings (RickSteves.com/mnt).
Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced 60 free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, visit RickSteves.com/audioeurope.
Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.
Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a selection of video clips from my public television show, and video recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/podcasts).