INDEX
| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| R | S | T | U |
| V | W | Y | Z |
A
Aalsmeer Flower Auction: 16, 396, 401–403
Academy Building (Utrecht): 465–466
Accommodations: See Sleeping
A’DAM Tower (Amsterdam): 44, 106, 258
Adolf and Catharina Croeser (Steen): 171–172
Airbnb: 25, 213, 214, 507, 511–512
Air-conditioning, in hotels: 510
Airport, Schiphol: 284–286, 325
Air travel: 21–22, 25, 27, 532–533
Albert Cuyp Market: 81, 237, 238, 258, 269
Albert Heijn: 362; Amsterdam, 163, 240; Delft, 332; Haarlem, 324
Albert Heijn Grocery “Museum” (Zaanse Schans): 362
Alexanderplein: 47
Alkmaar Cheese Market: 357–358
Almanac: 484–485
Almond Blossom (Van Gogh): 193
Almshouses, in Haarlem: 314
American Book Center: 44
American Pilgrim Museum (Leiden): 415, 416–417
Amstelkring Museum: See Our Lord in the Attic Museum
Amstelpark: 259
Amsterdam: 34–286; at a glance, 64–65; arrival in, 40–42; best views, 44; with children, 252–262; daily reminder, 41; eating, 226–244; entertainment, 275–278; helpful hints, 43–44; as home base, 12; itineraries, 39–40; landmark guide, 37; neighborhoods, 36–38; nightlife, 275–278; orientation, 34–38; shopping, 263–274; sights, 58–212; sleeping, 213–225; smoking, 245–251; tourist information, 40; tours, 52–57; transportation, 40–42, 45–52, 279–286; walking tours, 108–162. See also specific sights and neighborhoods
Amsterdam, VOC Ship: 102–103, 256
Amsterdam canals: See Canals of Amsterdam
Amsterdam Centraal Station: See Centraal Station
Amsterdam Central Library: 44, 100
Amsterdam City Hall: 82
Amsterdam day trips: 353–482; best, 14–17; east, 17, 453–482; maps, 352, 396, 454; north, 14, 353–394; south, 16, 395–452
Amsterdam Flower Market: 124, 265
Amsterdam Gay Pride: 43
Amsterdam Marionette Theatre: 260
Amsterdam Pipe Museum: 71–72
Amsterdam School: 79, 155, 462
Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp (Rembrandt): 425
Anne Frank House: 69, 156–157, 195–204; with children, 257; eating near, 232–233, 235; general info, 64, 69, 195–196; late hours, 278; maps, 197, 199; sleeping near, 217; the tour, 196–204
Anti-Catholicism: 208
Antiekcentrum Amsterdam: 273
Antiques, shopping for: 273, 331. See also Delftware; Flea markets
Antwerp, train travel: 281, 349, 420, 452
Apartment rentals: 25, 213, 214, 507, 511–512
Appel, Karel: 79
Apps: 28, 521; Amsterdam, 44, 45, 502–503; language translation, 32, 497; maps and navigation, 44, 45, 502–503, 531; messaging, 521; payment, 43, 45, 499; sightseeing, 505; user reviews, 511
Aquarium: 259
Architecture: Dutch gables, 152. See also Churches and cathedrals
Arnhem: 17, 453, 472; map, 471; museums near, 453–454, 470–482; tourist information, 472; transportation, 470–471, 472
Arnhem Open-Air Folk Museum: 261, 454, 473–477
Art: modern Dutch, 79. See also Art museums; Civic Guard portraits; Golden Age; and specific artists and artworks
Artis, trams: 47
Artis Royal Zoo: 259–260
Art museums: advance tickets, 27–28, 58–59; Escher in the Palace (Hague), 429–430; Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem), 304–313; H’ART Museum, 65, 86; Kröller-Müller Museum, 454, 477–481; Lakenhal Museum (Leiden), 416, 418–419; Mauritshuis Royal Picture Gallery (Hague), 424–427; Moco Museum, 75; Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (Rotterdam), 449; Our Lord in the Attic Museum, 139, 205–212; Rembrandt House, 65; Stedelijk Museum, 64, 78–80; Stedelijk Museum Alkmaar, 359; Vermeer Center (Delft), 340–341; Westfries Museum (Hoorn), 382; Willet-Holthuysen Museum, 73–74. See also Rijksmuseum; Van Gogh Museum
ATMs: 497–500; Amsterdam, 43–44
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 28, 534
Auschwitz Memorial: 96
B
Bakery museums: Medemblik, 389; Zaanse Schans, 362
Bananenbar: 143
Banks (banking): See Money
Banquet at the Crossbowmen’s Guild (van der Helst): 179
Banquet of the Officers of the Calivermen Civic Guard (Hals): 308–309
Banquet of the Officers of the St. George Civic Guard (Hals): 307–309
Bars: See Nightlife
Batavialand (Lelystad): 391
Beaches: Amsterdam, 100; Scheveningen, 260–261, 431; Zandvoort, 262, 315
Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs): 510; Amsterdam, 218, 224, 225; Haarlem, 318–319
Bedroom, The (Van Gogh): 189
Beer: 520; Amsterdam’s brown cafés, 242–244; Haarlem, 322; Heineken Experience, 80–81; museum, in Alkmaar, 359
Beer Museum (Alkmaar): 359
Beestenmarkt (Leiden): 407
Begijnhof (Amsterdam): 65, 66–67, 119–120, 122
Berenstraat, shopping: 271
Berlin, train travel: 281
Bern, train travel: 281
Beurspassage: 114
Beursplein: 113–114
Beurstraverse (Rotterdam): 441
Beurs van Berlage: 113–115
Biking: 6; Amsterdam, 49–51, 106–107, 126, 150; harbor ferry, 57; tours, 56–57; Arnhem, 472; Delft, 332; Edam, 368–369; Haarlem, 290; Hoge Veluwe National Park, 478–479; Keukenhof, 400; Leiden, 405; Rotterdam, 435, 438, 439; on trains, 527; Zandvoort, 315
Bimhuis: 276
Binnenhof Parliament Complex (Hague): 428
Binnenrotte Outdoor Market (Rotterdam): 442–443
Black Lives Matter: 489
Blauwbrug: 82
Bloemenmarkt (Amsterdam): 124, 265
Bloemenveiling: See Aalsmeer Flower Auction
Blue Amsterdam Restaurant: 123, 232
Blue Boat Company: 53
Boat travel and cruises: Amsterdam, 51, 52–54, 259; harbor ferry, 57; Delft, 332; Enkhuizen, 385; Haarlem, 290; Historic Triangle, 389; Leiden, 405, 407, 419; Medemblik, 389; Rotterdam, 438, 450–451; Volendam, 377; Zaanse Schans, 361
Books, recommended, for children: 254
Bookstores, in Amsterdam: 44
Boom Chicago: 277
Boterbrug (Delft): 335
Botermarkt (Haarlem): 324–325
Brewers’ Chapel (Haarlem): 299
Brown cafés, in Amsterdam: 242–244, 275, 520
Brussels, transportation: 281–282, 286, 325, 349, 420, 433
Budgeting: 25
Budget tips: See Money-saving tips
Buiksloterweg: 103–107; sights, 104–106
Bulldog Café Coffeeshop: 136, 251
Burcht (Leiden): 414–415
Buses: 529; Amsterdam, 45, 48–49, 283, 285; Arnhem, 470–471, 472; Delft, 332; Edam, 368, 376; Haarlem, 289, 325; Hoge Veluwe National Park, 479; Leiden, 420; Marken, 379; Zaanse Schans, 361
C
Cabs: See Taxis
Café de Prins: 157, 235, 242–243
Café de Sluyswacht: 85, 243–244
Café ‘t Mandje: 142
Calvinism: about, 210
Canals of Amsterdam: 36–38, 112–113, 125, 140–141; cruises, 51, 52–54, 122, 259; Houseboat Museum, 69–70; Jordaan walking tour, 150–159; locks, 125, 140–141, 153; Museum of the Canals, 70–71; pilings, 117; sleeping, 215–218. See also specific canals
Canals of Utrecht: 460–462
Cannabis College: 248
Canoe tours, in Amsterdam: 54, 259
Carillons: 68, 135, 156, 296, 338, 414
Car insurance: 530–531
Car navigation: 531
“Carpenters House” (Leiden): 408
Car travel (driving): 531–532; Amsterdam, 52; Arnhem, 470; Delft, 331; Enkhuizen, 385; Flevoland’s Dike Road, 390–391; Haarlem, 289; Hoge Veluwe National Park, 478; Zaanse Schans, 361
Casa Rosso: 144
Cell (mobile) phones: 521–523. See also Apps
Centraal Station (Amsterdam): 40–42, 109, 111, 279–282; brown cafés near, 243; eating, 241; sleeping near, 219; trams, 46
Centraal Station (Rotterdam): 435, 439–440, 449
Centraal Station (Utrecht): 456, 460, 469
Central Amsterdam: 36; eating, 227–232; maps, 36, 63, 110, 216–217, 220–221; sights, 62–69; sleeping, 214, 219–221; walking tours, 108–145. See also Red Light District
Central Library (Amsterdam): 44, 100
Cheese Market (Alkmaar): 357–358
Cheese Market (Edam): 368, 370
Cheese Museum (Alkmaar): 358
Cheese Museum (Edam): 369–370, 372
Cheeses: 263, 514, 516–517; Alkmaar, 357–358; Edam, 368–372, 375–376; Zaanse Schans, 364
Children, in Amsterdam: 252–262; general tips, 252–255; top sights and activities, 256–262
Chinatown (Amsterdam): 142
Churches and cathedrals: De Papegaai Hidden Church, 117–118; Grote Kerk (Alkmaar), 359; Grote Kerk (Edam), 371, 374; Grote Kerk (Haarlem), 288, 294–301; Laurenskerk (Rotterdam), 441–442; Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam), 66, 114–115, 116; Nieuwe Kerk (Delft), 333, 338–339; Oude Kerk (Amsterdam), 44, 68, 133, 135; Oude Kerk (Delft), 337, 340; Pieterskerk (Leiden), 412; St. Martin Cathedral (Utrecht), 464–465; Westerkerk, 70, 155–156
Civic Guard portraits: 118–119, 179; about, 308; Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem), 307–313; Rembrandt’s The Night Watch, 174–176
Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 28, 534
Climate: 19–20
Clothing sizes: 536
Coen, Jan Pieterszoon: 381, 382
Coffee: 521
Coffeeshops: 520; Amsterdam, 136, 250–251, 251; Haarlem, 324; Rotterdam, 449
Colonialism: 488–489
Comedy club, in Amsterdam: 277
Concertgebouw: 276
Condomerie: 129
Consulates: 496
Corrie ten Boom House (Haarlem): 288, 302–303
Coster, L. J.: 292
Coster Diamonds: 74–75, 86, 268
Costs of trip: 25
Credit cards: 28, 497–501, 531
Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises
Cube Houses (Rotterdam): 443–444
Cuisine: See Food
Currency and exchange: 498–499
Customs regulations: 502
D
Dampkring: 251
Dam Square (Amsterdam): 36, 114–115, 147–148; eating, 234, 241; map, 63; sights, 62, 64–66; trams, 46
Day trips: See Amsterdam day trips
DD (Dirty Dicks): 133
De Adriaan Windmill (Haarlem): 261, 314, 317
De Candelaer Delft Workshop (Delft): 342
De Catharina Hoeve Cheese Farm (Zaanse Schans): 364
De Hef (Rotterdam): 445
De Hortus Botanical Garden: 87, 260
De Kat (Zaanse): 363
De Koepel (Haarlem): 315
De Kooning, Willem: 79
Delft: 328–349, 396; eating, 346–348; helpful hints, 331–332; as home base, 12; itineraries, 328–329; map, 330; sights, 337–344; sleeping, 345–346; tourist information, 329; tours, 332; transportation, 329, 331, 348–349; walking tour, 332–337
Delft’s Old Town: See Old Town
Delft Town Hall: 334
Delftware (Delft Blue): 342–344; De Candelaer Delft Workshop (Delft), 342; manufacturing process, 343; Royal Delft Museum (Delft), 342–344; shopping for, in Amsterdam, 264, 265, 268, 273
De Negen Straatjes: 116–117, 270–271
Den Haag: See Hague, the
De Papegaai Hidden Church: 117–118
Department stores, in Amsterdam: 269
De Pijp: 37, 49, 81, 237; eating, 237; flea market, 55, 81, 237, 269; food tours, 55
De Roode Steen (Hoorn): 381–382
De Rotterdam (Rotterdam): 447
De Verwoeste Stad (Rotterdam): 448
De Zoeker (Zaanse): 363
Diamonds: 74–75, 85–86, 264, 268
Dike Road (Flevoland): 390–391
Dining: See Eating
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Dog-Whipper’s Chapel (Haarlem): 300
Dollebegijnensteeg: 134
Domplein (Utrecht): 463–464
DOMunder (Utrecht): 465
Drieharingstraat (Utrecht): 460
Drinks: 520–521. See also Beer; Jenever
Driving: See Car travel
Drugs: See Coffeeshops; Marijuana; Smartshops
Durgerdam: 107
Dutch design: 264
Dutch East India Company: 87, 103, 104, 125, 140, 207, 342, 380, 381, 391, 488
Dutch Golden Age: See Golden Age
Dutch Holocaust Memorial of Names: 65, 86–87, 92
Dutch language: See Language
Dutch Resistance Museum: 64, 96–98, 256
Dutch restaurant phrases: 540
Dutch survival phrases: 539
Dutch Theater (Amsterdam): 95–96
E
Eating: 512–521; Amsterdam, 226–244; chef’s choice menu, 227–228; budgeting, 25; with children, 253; Delft, 346–348; Dutch restaurant phrases, 540; Edam, 375–376; Haarlem, 319–324; the Hague, 432–433; Leiden, 419; money-saving tips, 26; Otterlo, 482; Rotterdam, 451–452; tipping, 501, 513; Zaanse Schans, 365. See also Food
Economy: 484–485
Edam: 14, 354, 367–376; eating, 375–376; helpful hints, 368–369; map, 373; sights, 369–374; sleeping, 375; tourist information, 368; transportation, 368, 376; walking tour, 369–372
Edam Bell Tower: 369
Edam cheeses: 368–372, 375–376, 517
Ede-Wageningen Station: 477–478
Eendrachtsplein (Rotterdam): 449–450
Eerste Anjeliersdwarsstraat, eating: 233
Eerste Leliedwarsstraat: 158–159, 273
Egelantiersgracht (Amsterdam): 159–160, 235
Eilandsgracht (Edam): 371–372
Electricity: 497
Electric Ladyland: 160
Elements of Nature Smartshop: 132
Embassies: 496
Emergencies: 496
Enkhuizen: 14, 354–355, 383–387
Enkhuizen Zuiderzee Museum: 261, 380, 383–387; map, 384
Entertainment: See Nightlife
Environmental footprint (going green): 497
Erasmus, Desiderius: 442
Erasmus Bridge (Rotterdam): 439, 446–447
Erotic Museum: 67–68, 143, 278
Escher (M.C.) in the Palace (Hague): 429–430
ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System): 27, 495
Euro currency: 498–499
Europaplein: 49
Exchange rate: 499
EYE Filmmuseum: 104–106, 277–278
F
Fabritius, Carel: 426
Families: See Children, in Amsterdam
Feast of St. Nicholas, The (Steen): 170
Festivals: 496
Filmmuseum, EYE: 104–106, 277–278
Flag, Dutch: 485
Flanagan, Barry: 462
Flea markets: Albert Cuypstraat, 81, 237, 238, 258, 269; Waterlooplein, 82, 272
FloraHolland Aalsmeer Flower Auction: 396, 401–403
Flowers: 396; Keukenhof, 396, 398–401; seeds and bulbs, shopping for, 124, 264–265; “tulip mania,” 30, 490. See also Gardens
Flower markets: Aalsmeer Flower Auction, 396, 401–403; Amsterdam Flower Market, 124, 265; Delft, 331
Food: 512–520; tours, in Amsterdam, 54–55. See also Cheeses; Chocolate; Eating; Fries; Herring; Rijsttafel
Foodhallen (Amsterdam): 235
Foodhallen (Hague): 433
Frank, Anne: 195, 199–201, 203–204. See also Anne Frank House
Frank, Edith: 196–200
Frank, Otto: 196–204
Frankfurt, train travel: 281
Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem): 304–313; general info, 304; map, 305; self-guided tour, 304–313
Fries (friets): 514, 515; Amsterdam, 112, 241, 253, 270; Haarlem, 323
Friesland, MS: 389
Frozen Fountain, The: 264
G
Gables: about, 152
Galgewater Canal (Leiden): 407–408
Garden of Saint Paul’s Hospital (Van Gogh): 191
Gardens: 411, 475, 480; De Hortus Botanical Garden, 87, 260; Keukenhof, 396, 398–401
Gassan Diamonds: 75, 85–86, 268
Gasthuismolensteeg, shopping: 271
Gauguin, Paul: 186, 190–191, 480
Gauguin’s Chair (Van Gogh): 190–191
Gay men and lesbians, in Amsterdam: 9, 72, 132, 141, 142, 275; Homomonument, 43, 155; information, 43, 155
Gay Pride: 43
GAYtic: 43
Genever Experience: 80
Gerecht (Leiden): 412–413
Girl with a Pearl Earring (Chevalier): 254
Girl with a Pearl Earring (Vermeer): 421, 426–427
Golden Age: 104–105, 166, 487–490; Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem), 304–313; in Haarlem, 293; Historical Museum of the Hague, 430; Lakenhal Museum (Leiden), 416, 418–419; in Leiden, 411; Mauritshuis Royal Picture Gallery (Hague), 424–427; Rijksmuseum, 164–180; ruffs, 175; Westfries Museum (Hoorn), 382
Goldfinch, The (Fabritius): 426
Google Maps: 44, 45, 279, 502–503
Government: 485, 492, 494; Binnenhof Parliament Complex (Hague), 428
Grachtenmuseum: 70–71
Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky: 115
Great Church (Haarlem): See Grote Kerk
Great Synagogue (Amsterdam): 90, 92
Grey Area, the: 153–154
Grote Kerk (Alkmaar): 359
Grote Kerk (Haarlem): 288, 294–301, 317; general info, 294; map, 295; self-guided tour, 295–301
Grote Markt (Haarlem): 288, 292–294; eating, 322; map, 291; nightlife, 324
Grote Noord (Hoorn): 381
Grotius, Hugo: 333–334
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 534; updates, 29, 533
H
Haarlem: 288–325; arrival in, 289; eating, 319–324; helpful hints, 290; history of, 293; as home base, 12; maps, 291, 320–321; nightlife, 324–325; orientation, 288–289; sights, 292–317; sleeping, 317–319; tourist information, 289; transportation, 289, 325; walking tour, 292–294
Haarlem Canal Tours: 290
Haarlem Catholic Cathedral: 314–315
Haarlem Church: See Grote Kerk
Haarlemmerdijk (Amsterdam): 272
Haarlemmermeer: 316
Haarlemmerstraat (Amsterdam): 271–272
Haarlemmerstraat (Leiden): 407, 416
Haarlem Town Hall: 292–293
Haarlem Verwey Museum: 313
Hague, the: 16, 397, 421–433; eating, 432–433; map, 422; orientation, 421–422; sights, 424–432; tourist information, 422; transportation, 422–423, 433
Hague Historical Museum: 430
Halfweg-Zwanenburg: 317
Hals, Frans: 425, 427; biographical sketch, 306; grave of, 297; painting style, 313; Rijksmuseum, 164–167. See also Frans Hals Museum
Hartenstraat, shopping: 271
Hash, Marijuana, and Hemp Museum: 65, 68, 144–145, 278
Havenbuurt (Marken): 378
Heiligeweg, shopping: 273–274
Heineken Experience: 80–81
Heinen Delfts Blauw (Amsterdam): 269
Hema: 269
Herenstraat, shopping: 271
Herring: 241, 514; Amsterdam, 124–125, 155, 241–242; Haarlem, 292
Het Hollands Kaasmuseum (Alkmaar): 358
Het Huis Oudaen (Utrecht): 461
Het Muizenhuis: 258
Historical Museum of the Hague: 430
Historic Triangle: 354–355, 380–381, 388–389
Hofvijver (Hague): 427
Hoge Veluwe National Park: 454, 477, 481; transportation, 477–479
Holidays: 496
“Holland”: use of term, 5
Holland America Line: 447
Hollandsche Schouwburg: 95–96
Holocaust Memorial of Names: 65, 86–87, 92
Holy Ghost Orphanage (Leiden): 415
Hooglandse Kerk (Leiden): 415
Hooglandse Kerkgracht (Leiden): 415–416
Hoogstraat (Leiden): 416
Hoogstraat (Rotterdam): 441, 442
Hoorn: 14, 354–355, 380, 381–383; sights, 381–383; transportation, 383
Hoorn Harbor: 382
Hoorn Station: 383
Hostels: 512; Amsterdam, 225; Haarlem, 319
Hotel New York (Rotterdam): 447
Hotels: overview, 508–510; reservations, 508–509. See also Sleeping
Houseboat Museum: 69–70
House of Bols: Cocktail & Genever Experience: 80
House of Hajenius: 122–123
Huidenstraat, shopping: 270
Huis Willet-Holthuisen: 73–74
I
IJ River: 316
IKEA: 317
Indonesian food: 230–231, 518; Amsterdam, 112–113, 231; Delft, 348; Haarlem, 322; menu terms, 519
In-line skating, in Amsterdam: 278
International Court of Justice (Hague): 421, 430–431
Internet security: 524
Isaac Abrahamsz Massa and Beatrix van der Laen (Hals): 167
Isaac and Rebecca (Rembrandt): 173
Islam and the Netherlands: 493
Itineraries: 12 days in Netherlands, 20–21; Amsterdam, 39–40; best day trips, 14–17; best home bases, 12; Delft, 328–329; designing your own, 18–22; Leiden, 404; Rotterdam, 435; Utrecht, 455; Waterland, 366–367
J
Jamin: 133
Jenever: 80, 234, 242, 243, 263, 512, 520
Jeremiah Lamenting the Destruction of Jerusalem (Rembrandt): 178–179
Jewish Bride, The (Rembrandt): 173
Jewish Cultural Quarter (Amsterdam): 87–98
Jewish Museum (Amsterdam): 65, 90, 92, 257
Jews in Amsterdam: 88
Joods Museum (Amsterdam): 65, 90, 92, 257
Jordaan: 146–161; brown cafés, 242–243; eating, 232–233; map, 148–149; markets, 238; shopping, 268, 270–271, 272–273; sleeping, 218; walking tour, 147–161
K
Kaasmarkt (Alkmaar): 357–358
Kalverstraat: 115, 122–123; shopping, 269, 270, 273–274
Keizersgracht: 36, 155; trams, 47
Keizersgracht Bridge: 155
Kerkbuurt (Marken): 378–379
Kids: See Children, in Amsterdam
Kijk-Kubus Museum House (Rotterdam): 444
King’s Day: 43
Kinkerstraat: 235
Klompenmakerij (Zaanse Schans): 364
Koepel Kathedraal (Haarlem): 314–315
Koningsplein: 109, 124–126; eating, 124–125, 240, 242; trams, 47
Koninklijk Huis: See Royal Palace
Koornbrug (Leiden): 414
KPN Tower (Rotterdam): 446–447
Krijtmolen d’Admiraal: 106
Kröller-Müller Museum: 454, 477–481
Kubuswoningen (Rotterdam): 443–444
Kwakelbrug (Edam): 369
L
Lakenhal Museum (Leiden): 416, 418–419
Land sailing: 260
Langebrug (Leiden): 413
Lange Leidsedwarsstraat, eating: 236
Langestraat (Alkmaar): 356, 357
Lange Veerstraat (Haarlem): 323, 324
Language: Dutch restaurant phrases, 540; Dutch survival phrases, 539; Indonesian menu terms, 519; online translation tip, 497; translation, 32, 497
Laughing Boy (Hals): 427
Laundry: Amsterdam, 44; Delft, 331–332; Haarlem, 290
Laurenskerk (Rotterdam): 441–442
Leeuwenhoek, Anton van: 335
Leiden: 16, 397, 404–420; eating, 419; history of, 121, 410–411; itineraries, 404; map, 406; sights, 416–419; tourist information, 405; transportation, 405, 419–420; walking tour, 405–416
Leiden City Hall: 413–414
Leiden University: 410–411
Leidseplein: 37, 71; coffeeshops, 136, 251; eating, 236–237; nightlife, 275, 276–277; sleeping near, 221, 224; trams, 47
Leliegracht: 154–155
Lelystad: 391–394
Leuvehaven (Rotterdam): 448
Leyster, Judith: 171
Lijnbaan (Rotterdam): 440
Lindengracht, market: 238, 273
Lindengracht, shopping: 273
Little Street, The (Vermeer): 169–170
“Little Venice”: 139
London, train travel: 282
Loridanshofje (Leiden): 409
Love Boutique: 144
Love Letter, The (Vermeer): 169
Luxe Sloepen Haarlem: 290
M
Maastoren (Rotterdam): 446
McCarthy, Paul: 449–450
Magere Brug: 82
Magna Plaza Shopping Mall: 147–148, 269
Mail: 523–524
Maps: to buy, 44; navigation apps, 502–503, 531. See also Map Index
Marijuana: 9, 68, 245–251, 264; Bulldog Café, 136, 251; Cannabis College, 248; Dutch approach to, 246, 248; in Haarlem, 324; Hash, Marijuana, and Hemp Museum, 65, 68, 144–145; laws, 141–142, 246–249; pressure to recriminalize, 247; scamming stoners, 44. See also Coffeeshops; Smartshops
Marionette Theatre: 260
Maritime museums: 65, 100–103, 256, 448
Marker Museum (Marken): 379
Markets: 268; Alkmaar, 268, 357–358; Amsterdam, 238, 258, 268; Delft, 268, 331; Edam, 268, 368; Haarlem, 288; Leiden, 268, 414; Rotterdam, 442–443, 451–452. See also Flea markets; Flower markets
Mark Raven: 149–150
Markt (Delft): 331, 333–334, 337–338; eating, 346–347
Mauritshuis Royal Picture Gallery (Hague): 424–427
Meat Market (Haarlem): 293–294
Medemblik: 388–389
Medical help: 496
Meijer, Jonas Daniël: 89
Melkweg: 277
Merry Drinker, The (Hals): 165–166
Merry Family, The (Steen): 170–171
Metric system: 535–536
Metro: Amsterdam, 44, 48–49, 367; Rotterdam, 438
Militiaman Holding a Berkemeyer, A (Hals): 165–166
Milkmaid, The (Vermeer): 168–169
Mint Tower: 123; eating, 229, 232; sleeping near, 221
Mobile phones: 28, 256, 521–523. See also Apps
Moco Museum: 75
Molenmuseum de Valk (Leiden): 417–418
Molsteeg: 149–150
Mondrian, Piet: 79, 120, 466, 480
Money: 28, 497–502; in Amsterdam, 43–44; average daily expenses, 25; budgeting, 25; with children, 255–256
Money belts: 43, 128, 255, 500
Money-saving tips: 25–26, 497; Amsterdam, 48, 59; sleeping, 506–508
Montevideo (Rotterdam): 447
Monument of Jewish Gratitude: 92–93
Morsstraat (Leiden): 407
Mouse Mansion: 258
Movie theaters, in Amsterdam: 277–278
Multatuli: 152–153
Munich, train travel: 281
Munttoren: See Mint Tower
Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (Rotterdam): 449
Museum het Rembrandthuis: 65, 83–85
Museumkaart: 59, 504; Alkmaar, 357; Amsterdam, 59; Arnhem, 472; Delf, 331; Flevoland, 390; Haarlem, 290; the Hague, 422; Leiden, 405
Museum of the Canals: 70–71
Museum of the Mind (Haarlem): 315
Museum of the 20th Century (Hoorn): 382
Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder: See Our Lord in the Attic Museum
Museumplein (Amsterdam): 37, 74–75, 162; eating near, 236; map, 76–77; playgrounds, 258; sleeping near, 221, 224; trams, 47
Museum Speelklok (Utrecht): 468
Museum Stoomtram (Hoorn): 383
Museum Zaanse Tijd: 362
Music: Amsterdam, 276–277; Haarlem, 294, 296, 314, 324–325. See also Carillons; Jazz; Opera
Musical Clock Museum (Utrecht): 467, 468
Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ: 276
N
Nationaal Biermuseum de Boom (Alkmaar): 359
National Center for Science and Technology (NEMO): 44, 100, 256
National Holocaust Museum: 64, 93–95
National Monument (Amsterdam): 115
Natura Artis Magistra: 259–260
NDSM: 38, 103–104, 107; eating, 239–240
Nederland: use of term, 7
Nederlands Scheepvaartmuseum: 65, 100–103, 256
NEMO (National Center for Science and Technology): 44, 100, 256
Netherlands Maritime Museum: 65, 100–103, 256
Netherlands Open-Air Folk Museum (Arnhem): 261, 454, 473–477
Neude (Utrecht): 462–463
New Cheese Weigh House (Edam): 370–371
New Church (Amsterdam): 66, 114–115, 116, 276
New Church (Delft): 333, 338–339
New Europe Tours: 55
New Orleans Tower (Rotterdam): 447
New Synagogue: 92
Nieuwegracht (Utrecht): 466
Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam): 66, 114–115, 116, 276
Nieuwe Kerk (Delft): 333, 338–339
Nieuwe Leliestraat: 158
Nieuwe Spiegelstraat: eating, 163, 236; shopping, 273
Nieuwezijds Kolk (Amsterdam): 46
Nightlife: Amsterdam, 275–278; current schedule, 40, 275; budgeting, 25; Haarlem, 324–325. See also Music; Red Light District
Night Watch, The (Rembrandt): 174–176
“Nine Little Streets”: 37, 116–117, 270–271
Noordereiland (Rotterdam): 445
North Amsterdam: 38; bike tour, 106–107; eating, 239–240; map, 36; sights, 103–107
Northeast Amsterdam: 38; maps, 36, 101; sights, 100–103
North Holland Canal: 106–107
Numbers and stumblers: 535
O
Officers and Subalterns of the St. George Civic Guard (Hals): 309
Old Church (Amsterdam): 44, 68, 133, 135
Old Church Tower at Nuenen (Van Gogh): 186
Old Harbor (Rotterdam): 444–445; eating, 451–452
Old Town (Delft): 329, 331, 332–341; eating, 346–348; sleeping, 345–346; walking tour, 332–337
Old Wooden House (Amsterdam): 140
Oosterpark: 260
Open-air folk museums: 261; Arnhem, 261, 454, 473–477; Enkhuizen Zuiderzee Museum, 261, 380, 383–387; Zaanse Schans, 261, 360–365
Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam: 44
Otterlo: 482
Oude Binnenweg (Rotterdam): 452
Oude Delft Canal (Delft): 335–336
Oude Kerk (Amsterdam): 44, 68, 133, 135, 276
Oude Leliestraat: 153–154
Oudemanhuispoort Book Market: 269, 272
Oude Spiegelstraat, shopping: 270
Oudezijds Achterburgwal: 142–144
Oudezijds Voorburgwal: 137
Our Lord in the Attic Museum: 68–69, 139, 205–212; general info, 64, 69, 205; overview, 206; the tour, 206–212
P
Packing tips and checklist: 28, 252, 537
Paleisstraat: 46–47
Pannenkoekenhuis (pancakes): 229, 234, 253, 339, 347, 476, 514
Panorama Mesdag (Hague): 429
Panorama Terrace: 284
Parade of Flags (Rotterdam): 445
Paradiso: 276
Paris, transportation: 282, 283
Parliament Complex (Hague): 428
Peace Palace (Hague): 430–431
Peeters, Clara: 171
Petrus en Paulus Kerk: 117–118
Pharmacies, in Amsterdam: 44
Phoenixstraat (Delft): 337
Phones: See Telephones
Pietà, after Delacroix (Van Gogh): 192
Pieterskerkhof (Leiden): 412
Pilgrim Fathers Church (Delft): 451
Pilgrims in Holland: 121, 451, 457, 488; Leiden, 404, 411, 412, 415, 416–417
“Pill Bridge”: 137
Pipe Museum: 71–72
Planetarium: 259
Playgrounds: 258–259
Polders: 6, 316, 335–336, 386, 392–393; canoe tours, in Amsterdam, 54, 529
Pompadour: 268
Population: 484
Porcelain: See Delftware
Portrait of a Couple (Hals): 167
Portrait of a Woman, Possibly Maria Trip (Rembrandt): 177
Portrait of Jacobus Zaffius (Hals): 309–310
Portraits of Nicolaes Woutersz van der Meer and: His Wife, Cornelia Voogh (Hals), 311–312
Portuguese Synagogue (Amsterdam): 64, 87–90
Post offices: 523–524
Pot: See Marijuana
Potato Eaters, The (Van Gogh): 185
Pride in Amsterdam: 43
Princess Juliana Daycare: 137
Prinsengracht: 36, 125, 157–158; eating, 157, 234, 235; trams, 47
Prinsenhof (Delft): 336–337
Prinsenhof Museum (Delft): 336, 341
Prinsenstraat, shopping: 271
Prinzenkwartier (Delft): 341
Prison Gate Museum (Hague): 428–429
Prostitution: 67, 128, 136–137, 138, 142, 143; history of, 134; Information Center, 128, 136–137; Red Light Secrets Museum of Prostitution, 68, 143, 278. See also Red Light District
R
Rail passes: 27, 527, 528, 533
Rail travel: See Train travel
Railway Museum (Utrecht): 260, 466, 467–468
Ransdorp: 107
Rapenburg (Leiden): 409–410, 411
Raven, Mark: 149–150
Red Cabbages and Onions (Van Gogh): 187
Red Light District (Amsterdam): 36, 64, 67–69, 127–145, 275; brown cafés, 243; eating, 232, 242; guided tours, 57, 128; map, 130–131; sights, 67–69; walking tour, 129–145
Red Light District (Haarlem): 314
Red Light Secrets Museum of Prostitution: 68, 143, 278
Reestraat, shopping: 271
Regentesses of the Old Men’s Almshouse (Hals): 312–313
Regents of St. Elisabeth Hospital (Hals): 310–311
Regents of the Old Men’s Almshouse (Hals): 312
Rembrandtpark (Leiden): 408–409
Rembrandtplein (Amsterdam): 72, 123; nightlife, 275; trams, 47
Rembrandt van Rijn: 34, 66, 70, 75, 135, 172–173, 408–409, 413, 418, 425; House, 65, 83–85; The Night Watch, 174–176; Rijksmuseum, 172–179
Rental properties: 507, 511–512
Resources from Rick Steves: 533–534
Restaurants: See Eating
Rhine River: 405, 408, 410, 413, 414, 415, 484
Rietveld, Gerrit: 79
Rietveld Schröder House (Utrecht): 466
Rijksmuseum: 75, 162–180; with children, 257; eating, 163; eating near, 236; general info, 64, 75, 162–164; map, 165; shopping, 269–270; sleeping near, 221, 224; the tour, 164–180
Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Schiphol: 284
Rijksmuseum Boerhaave (Leiden): 416, 417
Rijsttafel: 230–231, 518; Amsterdam, 112–113, 231; Delft, 348; Haarlem, 322; menu terms, 519
Rock music, in Amsterdam: 276–277
Rokin: 115, 122; brown cafés, 243; eating, 229; shopping, 272; trams, 47
Rotterdam: 16, 397, 434–452; eating, 451–452; helpful hints, 438; itineraries, 435; map, 436–437; sights, 438–451; tourist information, 435; transportation, 435, 452; walking tour, 439–450
Rotterdam Centre: 447–448
Rotterdam City Hall: 440–441
Rotterdam City Library: 443
Rotterdam Maritime Museum: 448
Royal Delft Museum (Delft): 342–344
Royal FloraHolland Aalsmeer Flower Auction: 396, 401–403
Royal Palace (Amsterdam): 62, 64–66, 115–116; eating near, 241
Rozengracht, shopping: 273
Rubens, Peter Paul: 424
Runstraat, shopping: 270
Ruysch, Rachel: 171
S
Safety: with children, 255–256. See also Theft alerts
SAIL Amsterdam: 43
St. Andrew’s Courtyard: 160–161
St. Bavo Church (Haarlem): 294–301; map, 295
St. George Gate (Leiden): 409
St. Hubertus Lodge (Hoge Veluwe): 481
St. Lawrence Church (Rotterdam): 441–442
St. Martin Cathedral (Utrecht): 464–465
St. Peter’s Church Square (Leiden): 412
Scheltema: 44
Schepenmakersdijk (Edam): 369
Scheveningen: 260–261, 431–432
Schiphol Airport: 284–286, 325
Schokkerhuisje: 394
Schokland Museum: 391–394
Schouwburgplein (Rotterdam): 440–441
Science museum, NEMO: 44, 100, 256
Seasons: 19–20
Self-Portrait (Rembrandt): 177
Self-Portrait as the Apostle Paul (Rembrandt): 176
Self-Portraits (Van Gogh): 187, 188
Sensi Seed Bank Store: 145
Sex: museums, 67–68, 143, 278; Damrak Sex Museum, 67, 112; Erotic Museum, 67–68, 143; shops, 133, 143, 144; shows, 144. See also Prostitution; Red Light District
Sheaf Binder, after Millet, The (Van Gogh): 192
Shipping: 263
Shopping: Amsterdam, 263–274; map, 266–267; top zones, 270–274; clothing sizes, 536; hours, 263, 497; Rotterdam, 441; VAT refunds, 263, 501–502. See also Chocolate; Delftware; Diamonds; Markets; Wooden shoes
Siberië Coffeeshop: 251
Sightseeing: advance tickets, 27–28, 58–59, 503–504; general tips, 504–505; planning tips, 503; best day trips, 14–17; best home bases, 12; budgeting, 25; with children, 253–255, 256–262; maps and navigation tools, 502–503; top destinations, 11; in 12 days, 20–21. See also Itineraries; and specific sights and destinations
Sightseeing passes: 59, 504. See also Museumkaart
SIM cards: 522
Singel Belt (Rotterdam): 449–450
Singel Canal (Amsterdam): 36, 151–152; sleeping, 219
Skating, in Amsterdam: 278
Sleep code: 506
Sleeping: 505–512; Amsterdam, 213–225; budgeting, 25; with children, 252; cost considerations, 213–214; Delft, 345–346; Edam, 375; Haarlem, 317–319; home bases, 12; money-saving tips, 25–26, 506–508; Otterlo, 482; reservations, 27, 508–509; types of accommodations, 508–512
Sloep Delen Boat Rental: 51
Sloterdijk Station: 316–317
Smartphones: 28, 256, 521–523. See also Apps
Smidtje Canal Cruises (Haarlem): 290
Smoking, in Amsterdam: 245–251
Social control: 141
Southeast Amsterdam: 37–38; eating, 238–239; maps, 36, 84–85; sights, 82–100
Southern Canal Belt: 37; eating, 234–235; maps, 36, 72; sights, 71–74; sleeping, 215, 224–225
Southwest Amsterdam: 37; eating, 232, 235–237; maps, 36, 76–77, 222–223; sights, 74–81; sleeping, 214–215, 221–224
Sower, The (Van Gogh): 190
Spaarne River Canal (Haarlem): eating, 323
Spiegelkwartier, shopping: 273
Spoorwegmuseum (Utrecht): 260, 466, 467–468
Spui (Edam): 370
Spui (Spuistraat): 122–123, 126, 150; eating, 228–229; shopping, 273–274; trams, 46–47
Spui Square: 122–123; brown cafés, 243; eating, 242
Staalstraat: 38; shopping, 270, 272
Steam Train Hoorn Medemblik: 388–389
Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam): 64, 78–80
Stedelijk Museum Alkmaar: 359
Steen, Jan: 170–172, 413, 418, 426
Steenweg (Utrecht): 467
Still Life with Bible (Van Gogh): 185
Stock Exchange (Amsterdam): 113–115
Story of Edam Cheese: 369–370, 372
STRAAT Museum: 107
Strain Hunters Coffeeshop: 251
Stromma (Amsterdam): 53
Stroopwafels: 229, 253, 292, 398, 516
“Stumbling stones”: 94
Subway, in Amsterdam: 45, 48–49
Sunflowers (Van Gogh): 189–190, 481
Surinamese food: 237, 240, 518
Syndics the (Rembrandt): 173–174
T
Taxes, VAT refunds: 263, 501–502
Taxis: 529; Amsterdam, 51–52, 285–286; Haarlem, 290; Rotterdam, 438; tipping, 501
‘T Blauwe Theehuis: 81, 236–237
Telephones: 521–523
Ten Boom (Corrie) House (Haarlem): 302–303
Teylers Museum (Haarlem): 303
Theater, in Amsterdam: 277
Theatre Casa Rosso: 144
Theft alerts: 29, 31, 43, 496, 500–501; bikes, 50
This Is Holland (Amsterdam): 106, 258
Those Dam Boat Guys: 53–54
Three Little Ships (Haarlem): 298
Time zones: 496
Tobacco: 245, 249–250; Pipe Museum, 71–72
Tobacco Theater: 277
Torensluis Bridge: 151–152; eating, 234
Tour guides: 29; Amsterdam, 55–56; Leiden, 405
Tourist information: 496; Amsterdam, 40. See also specific destinations
Tours: Amsterdam, 52–57; Rick Steves, 533–534
Train travel: 524–529; Alkmaar, 357, 359–360; Amsterdam, 40–42, 279–282, 285; Arnhem, 472; with children, 256; Delft, 329, 331, 348–349; Enkhuizen, 385; Haarlem, 289, 325; the Hague, 423, 433; Historic Triangle, 388–389; Hoge Veluwe National Park, 477–478; Hoorn, 381, 383; Leiden, 405, 419–420; map, 525; Rotterdam, 435, 439–440, 452; schedules, 525–526; Steam Train Hoorn Medemblik, 388–389; tickets, 27, 526, 528; Utrecht, 456, 469; Zaanse Schans, 360–361; Zandvoort, 262. See also Centraal Station
Trams: Amsterdam, 45–49; Delft, 348; the Hague, 422–423, 433; Rotterdam, 438
Transportation: 524–533; Alkmaar, 357, 359–360; Amsterdam, 40–42, 45–52, 279–286; maps, 280; Arnhem, 470–471, 472; budgeting, 25; with children, 252–253, 256; Delft, 329, 331, 348–349; Edam, 368, 376; Enkhuizen, 385; Haarlem, 289, 325; the Hague, 422–423, 433; Hoorn, 381; Kröller-Müller Museum, 477–478; Leiden, 405, 419–420; pre-booking, 27; Rotterdam, 435, 452; Utrecht, 456, 469. See also Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Car travel; Taxis; Train travel; Trams
Travel advisories: 495
Travel insurance: 28, 498, 531
Travel tips: 495–497
Trip costs: 25
Tulip Museum: 265
Tulips: See Flowers
Tuschinski Theater: 72–73, 123, 277
Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat: 159, 273; eating, 232–233
U
Uitkrant: 275
Unknown Prostitute (“Belle”), statue: 135
Utrecht: 17, 453, 455–469; history of, 457; itineraries, 455; map, 458–459; orientation, 455–456; sights, 456–468; tourist information, 456; transportation, 456, 469; walking tour, 456, 460–467
Utrecht Cathedral: 464–465
Utrecht Cathedral Square: 463–464
Utrecht City Hall: 463
Utrecht Railway Museum: 260, 466, 467–468
Utrecht University: 465–466
V
Van Doesburg, Theo: 79
Van Gogh, Vincent: 64, 79, 114, 180; Kröller-Müller Museum, 480–481. See also Van Gogh Museum
Van Gogh Museum: 75, 78, 181–194; with children, 257; general info, 64, 78, 181–182; shopping, 269–270; the tour, 183–194
Verkade Pavilion (Zaanse Schans): 364–365
Vermeer, Johannes: 167, 426–427; biographical sketch, 341; Center (Delft), 340–341; Rijksmuseum, 168–170
Vermeercentrum (Delft): 340–341
Verwey Museum Haarlem: 313
View of Delft (Vermeer): 427
View of Houses in Delft (Vermeer): 169–170
Vijfhoek (Haarlem): 325
Visitor information: 496; Amsterdam, 40. See also specific destinations
Visser, Lodewijk Ernst: 89–90
Vlaams Cultuurhuis de Brakke Grond: 277
Vleeshal (Haarlem): 293–294
VOC Ship Amsterdam: 102–103, 256
Volendams Museum: 377
Vondelpark: 81, 258–259; with children, 258–259; skating, 278; sleeping, 221, 224, 225; tea house, 81, 236–237
Vredenburgplein (Utrecht): 460
Vredespaleis (Hague): 430–431
W
Waag, the (Delft): 334
Waagplein (Alkmaar): 356
Walking tours: Amsterdam, 108–162; guided, 55; Jordaan, 146–161; Red Light District, 127–145; Delft, 332–337; guided, 332; Edam, 369–372; Leiden, 405–416; Rotterdam, 439–450; Utrecht, 456, 460–467
Wardens of the Amsterdam Drapers Guild (Rembrandt): 173–174
Water, drinking: 521
Waterland: 366–379
Waterlooplein: 38, 82; eating, 243–244; flea market, 82, 272; map, 84–85; sights, 82–87; trams, 47
Waterstone’s Booksellers: 44
Weather: 19–20
Weaver’s House (Zaanse Schans): 364
Weena (Rotterdam): 440
Wereldmuseum Amsterdam: 98–100
West Amsterdam: 36–37; eating, 232–233; maps, 36, 148–149, 216–217; sights, 69–71; sleeping, 214, 215–218. See also Jordaan
Westerkerk: 70, 155–156; concerts, 276
Westermarkt: 155
Westfries Museum (Hoorn): 382
Wheat Field with a Reaper (Van Gogh): 192
Wheat Field with Crows (Van Gogh): 193–194
White House (Rotterdam): 444
Wijde Heisteeg, shopping: 270
Willet-Holthuysen Museum: 73–74
William of Orange: 301, 336, 341, 410–411, 412, 485–486; biographical sketch, 486; tomb of, in Delft, 338–339
Williams Bridge (Rotterdam): 445
Windmills: 106, 316, 337, 363–364, 407, 408; Arnhem, 475–476, 477; De Adriaan (Haarlem), 261, 314, 317
Windmill Museum (Leiden): 416, 417–418
Windmill Museum (Zaanse Schans): 363–364
Wind n’ Wheels: 260
Witte de Withstraat (Rotterdam): 449, 452
Woeste Westen: 259
Wolvenstraat, shopping: 270–271
Woman Reading a Letter (Vermeer): 169
Wooden shoes: 6, 112, 261, 360, 401; factory, in Marken, 379; shopping for, 263–264; workshop, in Zaanse Schans, 364
Woonbootmuseum: 69–70
World Museum Amsterdam: 98–100, 257
World Port Center (Rotterdam): 447
World War II: 87–95, 88, 431, 434, 438, 440, 441, 445–446, 491–492; Anne Frank House, 195–204; Auschwitz Memorial, 96; Corrie ten Boom House (Haarlem), 302–303; Dutch Resistance Museum, 96–98, 256; Dutch Theater, 65, 95–96; Holocaust Memorial of Names (Amsterdam), 65, 86–87, 92; National Holocaust Museum, 93–95; National Monument (Amsterdam), 115
Y
Yellow Bike Guided Tours: 56
Yellow House, The (Van Gogh): 188–189
Young Woman in Fantasy Costume (Rembrandt): 178
Z
Zaandijk: 360–361
Zaanse Schans Open-Air Museum: 14, 261, 353–354, 360–365; eating, 365; sights, 361–365; transportation, 360–361
Zaanse Time Museum: 362
Zaans Museum (Zaanse Schans): 364–365
Zeedijk: 140–142
Zoo, in Amsterdam: 259–260
Zuiderzee: 377–378, 392–393, 491
Zuiderzee Museum (Enkhuizen): 261, 380, 383–387; map, 384
Zuid-Kennemerland National Park: 316
Zunderdorp: 106–107