Practicalities — Rick Steves Amsterdam & the Netherlands (5th Ed, 2025)

This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.

Travel Tips

Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, at Travel.State.gov (US State Department travel pages) and CDC.gov (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention). The US embassy website for the Netherlands is another good source of information (see later).

ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering the Netherlands and other Schengen Zone countries (quick and easy process). For the latest, check https://travel-europe.europa.eu/etias_en.

Tourist Information: The Netherlands’ national tourist office in the US can be a wealth of information (www.holland.com). Its website has trip-planning advice, festival schedules, downloadable city maps, and much more. Another useful website is Iamsterdam.com (Amsterdam Tourism Board).

Local tourist information offices (abbreviated TI in this book; marked VVV locally) can be hit or miss. Amsterdam’s main TI (called the “I Amsterdam Store”) is inside Centraal station but is often crowded. You’ll also find TIs in most Dutch cities and towns.

A TI’s advice can be influenced by partnerships with local businesses, but they’re still a handy place to pick up a town map, browse brochures, and ask basic questions. If the TI falls short, you can also get local information from your hotelier, or even staff at sights and other businesses.

Holidays and Festivals: For a list of festivals and national holidays observed throughout the Netherlands, see RickSteves.com/europe/festivals. Before planning a trip around a festival, verify the dates with the festival website or the national tourist office.

Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 (operators typically speak English). If you get sick, do as the Dutch do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.

Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy or consulate (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards,” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For help with a lost phone, see “Damage Control for Lost Phones” on here. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.

US Embassies and Consulates: Amsterdam +31 70 310 2209 (Museumplein 19, https://nl.usembassy.gov). Online appointments are mandatory for all public services.

The Hague +31 70 310 2209, visits by appointment only (John Adams Park 1, in the suburb of Wassenaar, https://nl.usembassy.gov).

Canadian Embassy: The Hague +31 70 311 1600 (Sophialaan 7, www.Canada.ca/Canada-And-Netherlands).

Time Zones: The Netherlands, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. If you have cell service, your phone should update to the local time zone when you arrive in Europe (if not, look under “Settings” and “Date and Time” or “Clock” to do it manually). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone.

Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. All electronics and most appliances (hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.

Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 65 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only to European citizens.

Online Translation Tip: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites. The Google Translate app converts spoken or typed English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera. Before your trip, it’s a good idea to download the Dutch dictionary in the app so it can translate even if you’re offline.

Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint while traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight between cities, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them). Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, see RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.

Money

Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Europe. I pack the following:

Credit Card: You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big and small. Many Dutch businesses have gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is widely accepted and simple to use.

Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw a small amount of local cash. Wait until you arrive to get euros (European cities have plenty of ATMs). While many transactions are by card these days, cash can help you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work and can be useful to pay for things like tips and local guides. But don’t take out too much, or you may find you can’t use it all.

Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.

Travel Insurance

Travel insurance can minimize the considerable financial risks of traveling: accidents, illness, missed flights, canceled tours, lost baggage, theft, terrorism, travel-company bankruptcies, natural disasters, emergency evacuation, and getting your body home if you die. The decision to buy travel insurance (and how much) depends on your situation. First determine what coverage you already have; many premium credit cards include generous coverage, and other expenses may be covered through your health, homeowners, or renters insurance. Then consider how likely it is that you’ll need to change or cancel (for example, if you or a loved one is in frail health), how much of your prepaid trip costs are nonrefundable, and your risk tolerance.

It costs money to buy away the financial risk of travel. But if insurance costs 10 percent of your total trip cost, that may be a small price to pay—and worth the peace of mind—compared to the potential loss in the event of something catastrophic. You can compare insurance policies and costs at InsureMyTrip.com.

Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency.

BEFORE YOU GO

Know your cards. In Europe, Visa and Mastercard credit cards are universal, while American Express and Discover are less common. Debit cards with a Visa or Mastercard logo will work in any European ATM.

Go “contactless.” Contactless pay options are now standard in much of Europe. Check if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines) and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section).

Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.

Report your travel dates. Some banks want to know that you’ll be using your cards overseas, specifically when and where you’re headed. Depending on your bank, you can do this either online or over the phone.

Check your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can withdraw daily and ask for a higher daily limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not from savings accounts.

Find out about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a foreign transaction fee (1-3 percent). Shop around; you can compare credit cards on BankRate.com. Some cards offer lower international fees than others—and some don’t charge any at all. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no foreign transaction fees.

IN EUROPE

Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps

Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: If your card has a contactless symbol, you can simply tap it against a contactless reader to make a purchase. A PIN or signature is generally required only as a security measure for larger purchases. This is by far the easiest way to pay and is available in much of Europe. Some small businesses (such as market stalls or food stands) accept only tap cards.

Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can tap-to-pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. If you’ve arrived in Europe without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone with a payment app.

Will my US card work? Usually, yes. Rarely, a vendor or self-service payment machine (such as a transit-ticket kiosk, tollbooth, or fuel pump) may not accept older chip-and-PIN or swipe cards. Have some cash handy or look for a cashier who can process your payment manually. In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card. When approaching a toll plaza or ferry-ticket line, use the “cash” lane.

Always choose to pay in the local currency: During a credit-card transaction, the payment terminal will sometimes ask whether you want to pay in US dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While this “service”—called Dynamic Currency Conversion (DCC)—offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate and/or higher fees, and you’ll wind up losing money.

Using Cash

Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars. In Europe, the universal term for an ATM is “bankomat”; in the Netherlands, ask for a geldautomaat.

Beware of cash machines run by exchange or money-transfer companies, which have less favorable rates and higher fees than banks. These can be marked Euronet, Travelex, Your Cash, or Cashzone—or simply marked generically, as “bankomat” or “ATM.” Rip-off exchange ATMs are often the only option at airports and train stations. You’ll get better rates in town at yellow Geldmaat ATMs (visit www.geldmaat.nl to find the nearest one) or at a bank ATM; major Dutch banks include ABN AMRO, ING, and Rabobank. On arrival, consider using a cashless payment option to get downtown, then find a real bank’s ATM near your hotel.

If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later. When offered the choice to process your transaction in US dollars or the local currency, always choose the local currency.

Exchanging Cash: Minimize exchanging money in Europe; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). In a pinch, you can find exchange desks at major train stations or airports. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.

Security Tips

Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your passport and backup cash and cards secure in your money belt (or your hotel-room safe) and carry only a day’s spending money and one card in your wallet.

Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front of the machine. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device.

Don’t use a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.

If accessing your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).

Damage Control for Lost Cards

If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to your bank (using a secure app) or the following global customer-assistance centers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), Mastercard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111).

You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see RickSteves.com/help for more).

If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.

TIPPING

Tipping in the Netherlands isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a good job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required.

Restaurants: Tipping is an issue only at restaurants that have table service. European credit card receipts typically do not have a tip line—request to add a tip before they run your card or leave a tip in cash. See here for more on tipping in restaurants.

Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €4.50, pay €5; or for a €28 fare, give €30). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.

Services: For local guides, private drivers, or others who spend several hours with you—and significantly improve the quality of your trip—a healthy tip (of around 10 percent) is not extravagant. In hotel rooms, leaving a tip of €1-3 per night is standard. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip for a service, ask a local for advice.

GETTING A VAT REFUND

Wrapped into the purchase price of your souvenirs is a value-added tax (VAT) of about 21 percent in the Netherlands. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €50 worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)

Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.

At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Europe.

At the Border or Airport: Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds (allow plenty of extra time for this process and have your purchased items easily accessible for inspection). At some airports, you’ll go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT-refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. Elsewhere, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing, or you may be able to do it at a self-validation kiosk. (Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee, but you’re paying for the convenience of receiving your money in cash immediately or as a credit to your card.) Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant.

CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS

You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. You also can bring certain flower bulbs that are sold with customs certificates. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).

To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).

For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit Help.cbp.gov.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to the Netherlands’ finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.

MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS

Your best navigation tool is on your phone. Google Maps (and similar mapping apps) offers turn-by-turn directions for walking and driving, as well as detailed public transit instructions in most big cities. Simply plug in a destination and instantly get detailed directions for reaching it on foot or by subway, bus, or tram—including where to catch it, how long it takes, where to get off, and how far you’ll walk at the other end.

To conserve data, most mapping apps let you download maps in advance (do this when you’re on strong Wi-Fi). However, offline maps may not include every feature, such as real-time traffic updates (most in-city public transit navigation doesn’t work offline). For more on using your phone during your trip, see here.

The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Europe, simple paper maps are generally free at TIs and hotels; maps with more detail are sold at newsstands and bookstores.

PLAN AHEAD

Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see “Amsterdam at a Glance” (here); also see “Daily Reminder” on here.

Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Opening days and hours can fluctuate; confirm the latest at the sight’s official website (listed throughout this book).

Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on major holidays (see for a list of European holidays). In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.

Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.

If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.

Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit. The Rijksmuseum is much more entertaining if you’ve boned up on ruffs and Dutch Masters the night before.

RESERVATIONS AND ADVANCE TICKETS

Many popular sights in Europe come with long ticket-buying lines. Visitors who buy tickets online in advance can skip the line and waltz right in. Advance tickets are generally timed-entry, meaning you’re guaranteed admission on a certain date and time.

For some sights, buying ahead is required (tickets aren’t sold at the sight and it’s the only way to get in). At other sights, buying ahead is recommended to skip the line and save time. And for many sights, advance tickets are available but unnecessary: At these uncrowded sights you can simply arrive, buy a ticket, and go in.

Don’t confuse the reservation options: available, recommended, and required. Use my advice in this book as a guide. Note any must-see sights that sell out long in advance and be prepared to buy tickets early. If you do your research, you’ll know the smart strategy.

Given how precious your vacation time is, I’d book far in advance both where it’s required (as soon as your dates are firm) and where it will save time in a long line (in some cases, you can do this even on the day you plan to visit). Amsterdam has three famous sights—visited by every tourist in town—where reservations are required: the Anne Frank House, the Rijksmuseum, and the Van Gogh Museum.

You’ll generally be emailed a digital ticket that you’ll store on your phone to scan at the entrance (if you prefer, you can print it out). At the sight, look for the ticket-holders line rather than the ticket-buying line; you may still have to wait in a security line.

Sightseeing Passes: The Museumkaart sightseeing pass is valid at 450 sights around the country—but you can use it at just five sights of your choosing (€75, valid 31 days, full details and list of covered sights at www.museumkaart.nl). Amsterdam also offers the I Amsterdam City Card that provides free or discounted admission to several sights as well as public transportation (see here). Even with a sightseeing pass, you’ll often still need to make reservations for the most popular sights.

AT SIGHTS

Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word. Here’s what you can typically expect at sights:

Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.

Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check day packs and coats. (If you’d rather not check your day pack, try carrying it tucked under your arm as you enter.)

At churches—which often offer interesting art (usually free) and a cool, welcome seat—a modest dress code (no bare shoulders or shorts) is encouraged, though rarely enforced.

Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.

Audioguides and Apps: I’ve produced free, downloadable audio tours for my Amsterdam City Walk, Red Light District Walk, and Jordaan Walk; look for the in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.

Some sights offer audioguides with recorded descriptions in English. Often you’ll use free Wi-Fi to scan a QR code and access the tour on your phone (A+ students can check ahead and download audioguides before their trip). Less frequently you’ll borrow or rent a device preloaded with the audio content.

Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.

Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy and air-conditioned places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.

Sleeping

One of my joys as a guidebook writer is connecting my readers with the small-hotel owners I’ve come to know over the years. Even if you’re willing to spend more, you’ll have a far richer trip if you stay in places with a strong sense of local character.

My best tips for booking rooms: Book direct, and book early. While third-party sites and room-booking services may seem convenient, booking directly with my recommended hotels puts you in contact with your host and can sometimes save you money.

Reserve your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See RickSteves.com/europe/festivals for a list of major holidays and festivals in the Netherlands.

FINDING AND RESERVING ROOMS

Curated and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to sights.

My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for Dutch traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.

Sleep Code

Hotels in this book are categorized according to the average price of a standard double room with breakfast in high season. These ranges apply to cities; you may pay less in towns.

€€€€	Splurge: Most rooms over €300
€€€	Pricier: €225-300
€€	Moderate: €150-225
€	Budget: €75-150
¢	Backpacker: Under €75
RS%	Ask about Rick Steves discount

Unless otherwise noted, credit cards are accepted and hotel staff speak basic English. For the best deal, book directly with the hotel.

RATES AND DEALS

I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a euro-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant. City taxes, which can vary from place to place, are generally insignificant (a few dollars per person, per night). Amsterdam’s visitors also pay a hefty tourist tax for overnight stays.

Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare features and prices at several hotels. Start with the recommendations in this book, then use hotel websites, booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com, and user-review sites such as TripAdvisor to narrow your options. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself—on the hotel’s website or by email or phone.

While big booking sites are convenient for travelers, they’re both a blessing and a curse for small, independent, family-run hotels. Without a presence on these sites, small hotels become almost invisible. But to be listed, they must pay a big commission...and promise that their own website won’t undercut the price on the booking-service site.

When you book directly with the hotel, the price may be the same as via a booking site, but more of your money goes to the hotel, not agency commissions. In exchange, ask if they can give you a nicer room or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included). Booking direct also increases the chances that your hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation).

The Pros and Cons of Short-Term Rentals

Short-term rental services like Airbnb are having a big impact in Europe. With hotels becoming more expensive and less personal post-pandemic—especially in big cities—short-term rentals are filling the gap.

Short-term rentals can provide more space and amenities than a cookie-cutter hotel (and are an especially good value for stays longer than a few days). Having your own kitchen can save on restaurant costs; a washer-dryer can spare you a trip to the launderette; and families who want to spread out get better value renting an apartment rather than multiple hotel rooms. Airbnb fans appreciate feeling part of a neighborhood and getting into a daily routine as “temporary Europeans.” Some places are run by thoughtful hosts, allowing you to get to know a local and keep your money in the community. But others are impersonally managed by large, absentee agencies, with self check-in and minimal contact.

Critics of Airbnb see it as a threat to “traditional Europe.” Landlords can make more money renting to short-stay travelers, driving rents up—and local residents out. Traditional businesses are replaced by ones that cater to tourists. And the character and charm that made those neighborhoods desirable to tourists in the first place goes too. Some cities have cracked down, requiring owners to obtain a license and to occupy rental properties part of the year (and staging disruptive “inspections” that inconvenience guests).

As a lover of Europe, I share the worry of those who see residents nudged aside by tourists. I’ve witnessed some of my favorite charming old neighborhoods sell out to the tourist dollar. Locals are left feeling like strangers, no longer able to identify with their temporary neighbors.

As an advocate for travelers, I appreciate the value short-term rentals provide in offering the chance to stay in a local building or neighborhood with potentially fewer tourists, and the convenience for families. But before searching on a short-term rental site, consider staying in a small, family-run hotel, to help preserve the culture you are traveling so far to see.

Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this book by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve and show it upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.

Making Hotel Reservations

Reserve your rooms as soon as you’ve pinned down your travel dates. For busy national holidays, it’s wise to reserve far in advance (see RickSteves.com/europe/festivals).

Requesting a Reservation: Book directly with the hotel (not through a booking website). Even small family-run places typically have websites that offer online bookings. If not, book your room directly via email or phone. Here’s what the hotelier wants to know:

• Type(s) of room(s) you want and number of guests

• Number of nights you’ll stay

• Arrival and departure dates, written European-style as day/month (18/06 or 18 June)

• Special requests (en suite bathroom, cheapest room, twin beds vs. double bed, quiet room)

• Applicable discounts (such as a Rick Steves discount, cash discount, or promotional rate)

Confirming a Reservation: Most places will request a credit-card number to hold your room. If the hotel’s website doesn’t have a secure form where you can enter the number directly, it’s best to share this info by phone.

Canceling a Reservation: If you must cancel, it’s courteous—and smart—to do so with as much notice as possible, especially for smaller family-run places. Cancellation policies can be strict; read the fine print before you book. Many discount deals require prepayment and can be expensive to change or cancel.

Reconfirming a Reservation: Always call or email to reconfirm your reservation a few days in advance. For B&Bs or very small hotels, I call again on my arrival day to tell my host what time to expect me (especially important if arriving after 17:00).

Phoning: For tips on calling hotels overseas, see here.

TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS

Hotels

In this book, the price for a double room ranges from $130 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to $500 (maximum plumbing and more), with most clustering at about $300-400 in Amsterdam, or about half in other Dutch towns and cities. For more guidance on this, see the Sleeping in Amsterdam chapter.

Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to a double; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a family room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single.

Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance and ring the bell.

Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. If stairs are unavoidable, ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up.

Most European countries require hotels to collect your name, nationality, and passport number. At check-in, the receptionist might ask for your passport and may keep it for a few hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to hand over instead.

If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.

Some hotels now offer self check-in. You’ll receive instructions before you arrive with a code for your room (and sometimes for the building’s front door).

Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it’s smart to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry.

Keep Cool

If you’re visiting the Netherlands in the summer, you’ll want an air-conditioned room. Most hotel air-conditioners come with a remote control that generally has similar symbols and features: fan icon (toggle through wind power, from light to gale); temperature (20 degrees Celsius—about 68 Fahrenheit—is comfortable); louver icon (steady airflow or waves); snowflake and sunshine icons (cold air or heat); and clock (“O” setting: run X hours before turning off; “I” setting: wait X hours to start). When you leave your room for the day, do as the environmentally conscious Europeans do and turn off the air-conditioning.

Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.

Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.

If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I rarely bother to use one and, in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.

For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.

Bed-and-Breakfasts

B&Bs offer double the cultural intimacy and—often—nicer rooms for a good deal less than most hotel rooms. Hosts usually speak English and are interesting conversationalists.

In the Netherlands, B&Bs are common in well-touristed areas outside the big cities. Amsterdam has very few B&Bs; by law, they may have no more than two rooms and must be in homes where people actually live. But good ones provide a great value and an insightful peek into a local home.

Crowd-Sourcing vs. Guidebooks

User-generated reviews on platforms such as TripAdvisor, Yelp, and Booking.com can give you a consensus of opinions about everything from hotels and restaurants to sights and nightlife.

I find online reviews more reliable for accommodations and sightseeing experiences than for restaurants (which tend to favor touristy options over local gems). When scanning reviews, I look for patterns: repeated complaints about bad service, a problematic location, or nighttime noise. I take one-off complaints with a grain of salt: Even the most expertly run business can have a bad day...or a cranky guest.

As a guidebook writer, my sense is that there is a big difference between the uncurated information on a review site and the vetted listings in a guidebook. A user review is based on the limited experience of one person, who stayed at just one hotel in a given city and ate at a few restaurants there. A guidebook is the work of a trained researcher who forms a well-developed basis for comparison by visiting many restaurants and hotels year after year.

Both types of information have their place, and in many ways, they’re complementary. If something is recommended in a guidebook and also gets good online reviews, it’s likely a winner.

Short-Term Rentals

Short-term vacation rentals offered through Airbnb and other services can be cost-effective. However, the city of Amsterdam places strict limits on Airbnb-type properties, to the extent that you’ll find a much smaller selection here compared to many other cities.

Keep in mind that European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.

Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.

Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and Vrbo let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com and RentaVilla.com can provide a more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive).

Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Consider the proximity to public transportation and amenities that are important to you (elevator, air-con, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.

Think about the kind of experience you want: just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self check-in and minimal contact; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.

Confirming and Paying: Many places require payment in full before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).

Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). A good place to start is HomeExchange.com.

Hostels

A hostel provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers, usually for under $60 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome, and family and private rooms are often available. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one).

Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share a booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.

Eating

In the Netherlands, lunch and dinner are served at typical American times (roughly 12:00-14:00 and 18:00-21:00). Traditional Dutch food is basic and hearty, with lots of bread, soup, and fish. Dutch treats include cheese, pancakes (pannenkoeken), and “syrup waffles” (stroopwafels). Popular drinks are light, pilsner-type beer and gin (jenever).

Treat your tongue to some new experiences in Holland: Try a pickled herring at an outdoor herring stand, linger over coffee in a “brown café,” sample a variety of cheeses at a cheese market, sip an old jenever with a new friend, and consume an Indonesian feast—a rijsttafel.

For listings in this book, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not tourists. Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.

Restaurant Code

Eateries in this book are categorized according to the average cost of a typical main course. Drinks, desserts, and splurge items can raise the price considerably.

€€€€	Splurge: Most main courses over €30
€€€	Pricier: €20-30
€€	Moderate: €10-20
€	Budget: Under €10

In the Netherlands, a friets stand or other takeout spot is €; a basic café or sit-down eatery is €€; a casual but more upscale restaurant is €€€, and a swanky splurge is €€€€.

When ordering drinks in a café or bar, you can just pay as you go (especially if the bar is crowded), or wait until the end to settle up, as many locals do. If you get table service, take the cue from your waiter. Cafés with outdoor tables generally charge the same whether you sit inside or out.

Waiters constantly say, “Alstublieft” (AHL-stoo-bleeft). It’s a useful, catchall polite word meaning, “please,” “here’s your order,” “enjoy,” and “you’re welcome.” You can respond with a thank you by saying, “Dank u wel” (dahnk oo vehl).

If you enjoy your meal, use the Dutch word for “yummy!”: Lekker! (LEH-ker). When a Dutch person really enjoys the food, he or she waves one hand to the side of their head.

Tipping: Tipping is an issue only at restaurants that have table service. If you order your food at a counter, don’t tip. At Dutch restaurants that have waitstaff, 15 percent service is included in the menu price, although it’s common to round up the bill after a good meal (usually 5-10 percent; so, for an €18.50 meal, pay €20). In bars, rounding up to the next euro (“keep the change”) is appropriate if you get table service rather than ordering at the bar.

RESTAURANT PRICING AND HOURS

I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a euro-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.

The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a taste of the local cuisine at a reasonable price.

Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and refined cuisine.

Most of my restaurant listings are open daily for lunch and dinner; I’ve noted exceptions.

DUTCH SPECIALTIES

Cheeses: The Dutch are probably better known for their cheese than for any other food. For more on this quintessential Dutch specialty, see the sidebar.

French Fries: Commonly served with mayonnaise (ketchup, curry sauce, peanut “satay” sauce, and various flavored mayonnaises are often available) on a paper tray or in a newspaper cone. Proper Flemish (Vlaamse) friets are proudly made from whole potatoes, not pulp.

Pannenkoeken: Dutch pancakes are typically halfway between a fluffy, American-style pancake and a thin French crêpe. They come with either savory or sweet toppings. The Dutch usually eat them for dinner, not breakfast; tourists do both.

Haring (herring): Pickled herring, always served with chopped raw onions and sometimes also with pickles. You can eat them straight, or tucked into a thick, soft, white bun. For more on herring, see here.

Hutspot: Hearty meat stew with mashed potatoes, onions, and carrots, especially popular on winter days.

Stamppot: Hearty side dish—a mash of potatoes and other ingredients—originally designed to fortify farm workers for a busy day in the fields. The basic stamppot mixes potatoes with stewed meat and cabbage, but you’ll also see andijviestamppot (with endive and bacon), zuurkoolstamppot (with sauerkraut), and boerenkoolstamppot (kale and potatoes with smoked sausage).

Snert: Thick pea soup.

Gehaktbal: Giant meatball. A slavink is a meatball wrapped in bacon.

Balkenbrij: Meatloaf made with organ meat and blood mixed with grains.

Kibbeling/Lekkerbekje: Little chunks/filets of deep-fried fish—often cod—dipped into mayonnaise or other flavored sauces (like fish-and-chips, but without the chips).

Hapjes (bar snacks): The Dutch enjoy lingering in bars and brown cafés while nibbling a variety of (mostly deep-fried) bar snacks. Popular options include kroketten (not quite “croquettes”—log-shaped rolls of meats and vegetables that are breaded and deep-fried, kind of like corn dogs), bitterballen (smaller, deep-fried balls of meat ragù—named not for the flavor, but for the “bitters”-based drinks typically consumed with them), frikandellen (minced-meat, uncased sausages, usually deep-fried rather than grilled), lumpia or vlammetjes (spring rolls), and bamihap or bamischijf (deep-fried, Indonesian-spiced fried rice). Vegetarians can look for kaassoufflé, a deep-fried pastry filled with cheese.

TYPICAL MEALS

Breakfast: Breakfasts are big by continental standards: bread, meat, cheese, and maybe an egg or omelet. Hotels generally put out a buffet spread, including juice and cereal. You might find a little box of candy sprinkles at the buffet. Dutch people (even grown-ups) like to butter a slice of bread, then scatter the top with chocolate sprinkles (De Ruijter brand). They also have little pellets of candied anise called Muisjes (“little mice”) that go on thick, crunchy rusk crackers.

Lunch: Simple sandwiches are called broodjes (most commonly made with cheese and/or ham). An open-face sandwich of ham and cheese topped with two fried eggs is an uitsmijter (OUTS-mi-ter). Soup is popular for lunch, including snert or erwtensoep, a thick, hearty pea soup.

Snacks and Takeout Food: Small stands sell friets (french fries) with mayonnaise, pickled herring, falafels (fried chickpea balls in pita bread), shoarmas (lamb tucked in pita bread), and döner kebabs (Turkish version of a shoarma). Delis have deep-fried meat-and-veggie snacks (kroketten). Although less rigid about “teatime” than the British, the Dutch also enjoy an afternoon cup of tea with a snack. Cafés serve a pricey afternoon tea around 16:00.

Happy Hour: The Dutch enjoy what they call borrel—an impromptu evening gathering with drinks and heavy (often deep-fried) snacks. Some bars use this term to advertise what we’d (loosely) call “happy hour.”

Dinner: It’s the biggest meal of the day, consisting of meat or seafood with boiled potatoes, cooked vegetables, and a salad. Hearty stews are served in winter. These days, many people eat more vegetarian fare.

Dutch Cheeses

The Dutch—who eat about 40 pounds of cheese per person each year—are famous for their cheese. In fact, worldwide, some small Dutch towns (like Gouda or Edam) are synonymous with cheese.

Traditionally, the Dutch produced mostly cow’s-milk cheeses—including most of the types described below—but recently goat cheese is becoming more popular. Some Dutch goat cheese is fresh and soft, while other types are hard and aged in big Gouda-like rounds. You can tell the difference by color: Cow’s-milk cheese is yellow or orange (from the carotene in the roots of the grass), while goat cheese is white (goats only eat the top of the grass).

Young (jong) cheeses are mellow: smooth, buttery, and mild. Mature or “old” (oude) cheeses are aged—traditionally in wooden warehouses, with hatches that can be opened and closed to adjust the heat and humidity. Aging brings out salty, crumbly, and pungent qualities—the longer, the stronger. Look for the terms jonge (1 month old), jong belegen (2 months), belegen (4 months), extra belegen (7 months), oude (10 months), and overjarig (“over a year”). Old cheese has no more salt content than new cheese—but the salt is more concentrated, so you taste it more. What look like “crystals” (little, white, crunchy specks) are concentrated pockets of protein. Either new or old, cheese may be seasoned with cumin, cloves, pepper, and other spices—even nettles.

Half of all Dutch cheeses are Gouda (HOW-dah)—a term that refers not to a particular cheese, but to the way it is produced and packaged: in giant, wax-covered, 30-pound, tire-sized rounds that could be rolled along streets and wharves for easier transport. Gouda (which was traditionally traded—not necessarily made—in the town it’s named for) is typically cow’s-milk cheese, and the flavor varies dramatically with how long it ages. Graskaas is a special kind of Gouda that’s made with the first harvest of milk after the cows return to the pasture each spring.

Edammer comes in smaller rounds (like an oversized softball), is covered with red wax, and travels well without refrigeration. Its portability made it popular during the Age of Exploration, when it was widely exported, which explains its worldwide appeal today: It turns up in national specialties as far away as Latin America and Pacific islands. Young Edam is extremely mild, but it gets firmer and more flavorful with age.

Cheeses that are not as well known—but still worth trying—include the following: Leidse kaas (“Leyden cheese”) is a hard cow’s cheese flavored with cumin. Boerenkaas (“farmer cheese”) is farm-produced in small batches with raw (unpasteurized) milk. Limburger is a famously fragrant, semisoft cow’s cheese. Leerdammer and Maasdammer resemble what we’d call “Swiss cheese” (with big holes and a pungent bouquet). Nagelkaas (“nail cheese,” from Friesland in the far north of Holland) is a firm cow’s-milk cheese flavored with cumin and cloves. And Parrano and Prima Donna are Italian-style cheeses—with a Parmesan flavor, but a smoother texture. Blue cheeses are not traditional but are catching on (look for the brand names Delfts Blauw and Bastiaanse Blauw). Other names you may see—such as Beemster, Old Amsterdam, or Reypenaer—are name brands rather than types of cheese.

To sample some Dutch cheese, drop into any cheese shop; tourist-oriented stores in Amsterdam and other Dutch cities are particularly generous with samples. For a better selection at a top-quality cheese shop with a staff that’s knowledgeable and passionate about their cheese, visit De Kaaskamer van Amsterdam, in the Nine Little Streets district (see here). Or, for the full Dutch cheese experience, hop on a train to Alkmaar on a Friday morning in spring or summer to experience a traditional cheese market in action (see the Alkmaar and Zaanse Schans chapter).

Sweets: The Dutch work hard to satisfy their sweet tooth. The quintessential Dutch treat is a stroopwafel—syrup sandwiched between two crispy, thin waffles. Prepackaged stacks of stroopwafels are sold in grocery stores, but a fresh, hot stroopwafel from a street vendor is a revelation. Pancake variations include pannenkoeken (skinny pancakes with fruit and cream), poffertjes (bite-sized, powdered-sugared puffy pancakes), and wentelteefjes (French toast). A bottle of stroop (sweet syrup—but not as flavorful as North American maple syrup) is on the table for drizzling. Gevulde koeken, despite the generic-sounding name (“filled cookies”), are filled with almond paste. Oliebollen (“oil balls”) are deep-fried dough balls dusted with powdered sugar. A zeeuwse bolus is like a cinnamon roll. And while we like to say “as American as apple pie,” the Dutch are renowned for their appelgebak or appeltaart. Another favorite dessert is spekkoek, a flavorful spice cake (with very thin, alternating layers of strong spice flavors including clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, and anise) that originated in Indonesia. The Dutch also have an appreciation for licorice (drop), including salty licorice (zoute drop)—usually sold in small pellets (hence the name).

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE

If you’re not in the mood for meat and potatoes, sample some of the Netherlands’ abundant international offerings.

Indonesian (Indisch): The tastiest “Dutch” food is Indonesian, from the former colony. Find any Indisch restaurant and experience a rijsttafel (literally, “rice table”). The spread usually includes many spicy dishes (ranging from small sides to entrée-sized plates) and a big bowl of rice (or noodles). Vegetarian versions are yours for the asking. For a smaller version, order nasi rames (several tiny portions on one plate). For more on Indonesian food, see the menu decoder in this chapter. For an Indonesian experience specific to Amsterdam, see the sidebar in the Eating in Amsterdam chapter (here).

Middle Eastern: Try shoarma (roasted lamb with garlic in pita bread, served with bowls of different sauces), falafel, gyros, or a döner kebab. Some shops sell a kitchen-sink gut-bomb called a kapsalon (“hair salon”): friets, shoarma meat, and melted cheese, with salad on top.

Surinamese (Surinaamse): Surinamese cuisine, like Suriname itself, is a complicated cultural mix. You’ll find influences from Caribbean, Indonesian, Chinese, and Indian cuisines—often on the same menu. Each Surinamese place has its own mix, but typically it’s roti (flatbread) and rice (white or fried) served with meats in sauces (curry and spices). Why Surinamese food in the Netherlands? In 1667, Holland traded New York City (“New Amsterdam”) to Britain in exchange for the small country of Suriname (which borders Guyana on the northeast coast of South America). For the next three centuries, “Dutch Guyana” became a melting pot of Dutch colonialism, as traders forcibly brought people here from the far corners of the world—mixing the indigenous people with transplants from Indonesia, China, India, and elsewhere. When Suriname gained independence in 1975, hundreds of thousands of Surinamese migrated to Amsterdam...and brought along this complicated culinary tradition.

More International Cuisine: In addition to the types listed here, you’ll also find plenty of Thai, Greek, Italian, and other foods.

TYPES OF EATERIES

Any place labeled “restaurant” will serve full sit-down meals for lunch or dinner. But there are other places to chow down.

A café or eetcafé is a simple restaurant serving basic soups, salads, and sandwiches, as well as traditional meat-and-potatoes meals in a generally comfortable but no-nonsense setting.

A salon de thé serves tea and coffee, but also croissants, pastries, and sandwiches for a light brunch, a lunch, or an afternoon snack.

Indonesian Menu Decoder

Indonesian food is spicy, flavorful, and satisfying. Rice (nasi), or sometimes noodles (bami), are the base upon which is layered a wide variety of beef, chicken, lamb, fish, shrimp, and vegetable dishes, often simmered in powerful sauces. Spicy pastes called sambal are used to add kick and other hits of flavor. The classic Indonesian dining experience is the rijsttafel—a “rice table” featuring a dizzying array of dishes shared family-style. (For a more detailed description of the rijsttafel, and some places to try it in Amsterdam, see here.) But that’s a huge amount of food; if you prefer to order à la carte, use this menu decoder. Here’s a tip: For a plate with a few samples of several dishes, look for nasi rames or nasi campur.

asam: tamarind (sour)

ayam: chicken

bakar: baked

bami (or mie): noodles

bami goreng: fried noodles

blado (or balado): spicy sauce

bumbu: spice mixture

campur: mix

daging: beef

domba: lamb

gado-gado: steamed veggies with peanut sauce

goreng: fried

ikan: fish

kacang: peanut

kecap: dark soy sauce

krupuk: deep-fried chips (usually shrimp)

kuning: yellow (usually with turmeric)

lodeh: coconut (or veggies in coconut milk)

lumpia: spring rolls

nasi: rice

nasi goreng: fried rice

nasi kuning: turmeric rice

nasi putih: steamed rice

nasi rames or nasi campur: “mixed rice” sampler plate

nasi uduk: sweet coconut rice

pangang: sweet and sour

perkedel: potato fritters

peteh: giant beans

pisang goreng: battered-and-fried bananas

rendang: rich, slow-simmered meat dish

sambal: hot paste, comes in many varieties

sambal goreng: stir-fried veggies with a spicy sauce

sate: grilled meat on a skewer

sayur: vegetables

sayur asem: vegetable tamarind soup

sayur lodeh: veggies in spicy coconut milk

spekkoek: spiced layer cake

tahu: tofu

tempeh: soybean cake (like fried tofu)

udang: shrimp

urap: steamed vegetable salad

Some other terms you might see—including Bali, Padang, and Jakarta—refer to regions within Indonesia. For example, Padang-style dishes tend to use lots of spice and coconut milk.

Bruin cafés (“brown cafés”) are named for their nicotine-stained walls (though they’re nonsmoking today). These places are usually a little more bar-like, with dimmer lighting and wood paneling.

A proeflokaal (“tasting locality”) is a bar (with snacks) offering wine, spirits, or beer.

“Coffeeshop” is the code word for an establishment where marijuana is sold and consumed, though most offer drinks and munchies, too (see the Smoking chapter).

There’s no shortage of stand-up, takeout places serving fast food, sandwiches, and all kinds of quick global cuisine.

No matter what type of establishment you choose, expect it to be gezellig—a much-prized Dutch virtue, meaning an atmosphere of relaxed coziness.

DUTCH DRINKS

Beer: Order “a beer,” and you’ll get a pils, a light lager/pilsner-type beer in a 10-ounce glass with a thick head leveled off with a stick. Typical brands are Heineken, Grolsch, Oranjeboom, Amstel, and the misnamed Bavaria (brewed in Holland). Another common tap beer is Palm Speciale, an amber ale served in a stemmed, wide-mouth glass. Witte (white) beer is light-colored and summery, sometimes served with a lemon slice (it’s like Hefeweizen, but yeastier). Bruin (“brown,” or dark) beers are also available; one popular brew is Imperator, made by the Brand brewery. Belgian beers—which, most aficionados would insist, are superior to Dutch beers—are quite popular; because many Belgian specialty beers are bottle-fermented, some of the best come in bottles, though others may be available on tap.

Jenever (yah-NAY-ver): Try this Dutch gin made from juniper berries. Jong (young) is sharper; oude (old) is mellow. These terms refer not to how long the jenever ages (although some are aged), but to whether they use an older or newer distilling technique. I prefer oude jenever, which is smooth and soft, with a more mature flavor—like a good whiskey. It’s served at room temperature, while jonge jenever is served chilled. Jenever is meant to be chugged with a pils chaser (this combination is called a kopstoot—head-butt). Typically, bartenders will fill your small, tulip-shaped jenever glass to the very brim. Wasting jenever is frowned upon, so lean over to sip a bit off the top before picking it up.

Liqueur: You’ll find a variety of local fruit brandies (brandewijn) and cognacs. If you have a sweet tooth, try advocaat—a super-rich, eggnog-like cocktail of brandy, eggs, and sugar.

Wine: Dutch people drink a lot of fine wine, but it’s almost all imported.

Coffee: The Dutch love their coffee, enjoying many of the same drinks (espresso, cappuccino) served in American or Italian coffee shops. Coffee usually comes with a small spice cookie. A koffie verkeerd (KOH-fee fer-KEERT, “coffee wrong”) is an espresso with a lot of steamed milk—the closest thing to our latte (but you could also just ask for a latte).

Soft Drinks: You’ll find the full array.

Orange Juice: Many cafés/bars have a juicer for making fresh-squeezed orange juice.

Water: The Dutch drink tap water and are proud of how good it tastes. They often promote drinking tap water as a way to reduce plastic-bottle waste. At restaurants, you can get tap water—kraanwater (KRAHN-vah-ter)—free for the asking.

Staying Connected

Your mobile phone is an indispensable tool for efficient travel. Fortunately, staying connected in Europe gets easier (and less expensive) each year. You can use your devices much like you do at home, either by getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your phone. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.

USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE

Here are some budget tips and options.

Prepare your phone. Before your trip, stock your device with any content or apps you’ll want on the road. Helpful tools include Google Translate, Google Maps, your airline’s app, public transit apps for your destinations, and sight-specific apps (such as museum audioguides). Also download maps if you plan to use offline navigation, and TV shows or movies to watch on the plane or during downtime.

Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at an affordable cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers unlimited text and low-speed data, plus reasonable per-minute voice calls).

Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. In Europe, look for and use Wi-Fi for most online tasks. Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public transit hubs, and airports, and aboard trains and buses.

Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. Turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) only when you can’t find Wi-Fi.

Save large-data tasks for Wi-Fi. If your included data is slow or metered, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to make video calls, download audio tours or apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Navigation apps such as Google Maps require lots of data; download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.

Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off.

Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. FaceTime, Skype, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. WhatsApp is especially popular throughout Europe and is often the easiest way to communicate with guides, drivers, or other local contacts.

Consider buying a European SIM or eSIM card. Both give you a European phone number and access to local calling and data rates; if you’re traveling to other countries within the EU, there are no additional roaming fees. Physical SIM cards can be purchased at mobile-phone shops and inserted into your (unlocked) phone; electronic SIM cards (or eSIMs) can be purchased online and downloaded.

In the Netherlands, SIM cards are sold mostly at vending machines and convenience stores (you may need to show your passport), though there are phone shops at Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam’s Centraal station.

Damage Control for Lost Phones: Losing your phone can be a significant inconvenience. Before you leave home, make sure your device is set up for automatic cloud backups, and enable the “find my phone” feature (make sure you have access to it from another device, like your travel partner’s phone or a laptop). Familiarize yourself with your phone’s “lost and lock” mode, which you can enable from another device if your phone goes missing. Report the loss to your mobile carrier; if your phone remains lost, use the “wipe” feature to erase its data.

How to Dial

Here’s how to dial from anywhere in the US or Europe, using the phone number of one of my recommended Haarlem hotels as an example (023 532 4530). If a number starts with 0, drop it when dialing internationally (except when calling Italy).

From a US Mobile Phone

Phone numbers in this book are presented exactly as you would dial them from a US mobile phone. For international access, press and hold 0 (zero) to get a + sign, then dial the country code (31 for the Netherlands) and phone number.

To call the Haarlem hotel from any location, dial +31 23 532 4530.

From a US Landline

Replace + with 011 (US/Canada access code), then dial the country code (31 for the Netherlands) and phone number.

To call the Haarlem hotel from your home landline, dial 011 31 23 532 4530.

From a European Landline

Replace + with 00 (Europe access code), then dial the country code (31 for the Netherlands, 1 for the US) and phone number.

To call the Haarlem hotel from a French landline, dial 00 31 23 532 4530.

To call my US office from a Dutch landline, dial 00 1 425 771 8303.

From One Dutch Phone to Another

To place a domestic call (from a Dutch landline or mobile), drop +31 and dial the phone number (including the initial 0).

To call the Haarlem hotel from Amsterdam, dial 023 532 4530.

More Dialing Tips

Local Numbers: European phone numbers and area codes can vary in length and spacing, even within the same country. Mobile phones use separate prefixes (for instance, in the Netherlands, mobile numbers begin with 06).

Toll and Toll-Free Calls: It’s generally not possible to dial European toll or toll-free numbers from a US mobile or landline (although you can sometimes get through using Skype). Look for a direct-dial number instead.

Calling the US from a US Mobile Phone, While Abroad: Dial +1, area code, and number.

More Phoning Help: See HowToCallAbroad.com.

MAIL

For details on sending packages to your own home or to others, visit CBP.gov, then select “Travel” and “Know Before You Go.”

The Netherlands has privatized its postal service, which is operated by PostNL. In addition to Postkantoor (full-service post offices), a variety of smaller private shops act as shipping agents (look for PostNL Pakketpunt). Either one is marked with the orange-triangle PostNL logo. If you’re shipping a package overseas, fill out all the paperwork online in advance at PostNl.nl (you’ll need to know the approximate weight), then take the package to a Pakketpunt or Postkantoor, give them your confirmation code, and drop off the box. (These shops typically also sell boxes in various sizes, stamps, and tape and other packing materials.) You can also buy stamps at some newsstands, bookstores, or grocery stores.

Tips on Internet Security

Whether using a laptop or phone on the road, make sure it’s running the latest versions of its operating system, security software, and apps. Ensure that your device and apps are password-protected (enable facial recognition where possible). If two-factor authentication is an option, activate it.

Use only secure, password-protected Wi-Fi. Ask the hotel or café staff for the specific name of their network, and make sure you log on to that exact one.

To access sensitive information (such as bank accounts), use a dedicated app, and ideally a cellular connection, which is more secure than a shared Wi-Fi network. Or consider subscribing to a VPN (virtual private network). If you’re using the Safari browser on an Apple device, an encryption feature called “Private Relay” works in a similar way.

For quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com).

Transportation

If your trip will cover more of Europe than just the Netherlands, you may need to take a long-distance train or bus, rent a car, or take a flight. Within the Netherlands itself, because of the short distances and excellent public transportation systems, I recommend traveling by train. Trains connect Amsterdam, Haarlem, Delft, and most day-trip destinations faster and easier than you could by driving. A car is necessary to visit Flevoland and can be an efficient way to visit Enkhuizen’s Zuiderzee Museum or the Kröller-Müller Museum near Arnhem.

For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.

TRAINS

The easiest way to reach nearly any Dutch destination is by train. Connections are fast and frequent. The Dutch train system—Nederlandse Spoorwegen—is usually identified by its initials, NS. InterCity (IC) trains are speedy for connecting big cities, and the high-speed Eurostar is the fastest (the speed comes at a price; see “Seat Reservations for Rail-Pass Holders,” later). InterRegio (IR) and sneltreins connect smaller towns, stoptreins are pokey milk-run trains that stop at every station, and the Netherlands’ misnamed “Sprinter” trains are actually slow stoptreins. Throughout the Netherlands, smoking is prohibited in trains and train stations.

Schedules

To get train schedules in advance, use the Dutch Rail website (www.ns.nl for domestic trains, www.nsinternational.nl for international trains) or the NS app (available in both domestic and international versions). If you’ll be riding the rails beyond Amsterdam, download the NS app before your trip and use it as you travel. Another good resource is the German Rail (Deutsche Bahn) website, which has comprehensive schedules for almost anywhere in Europe (www.bahn.com). Yet another website, 9292.nl, combines information on Dutch trains, buses, and trams, which can help fill in some gaps. For train information by phone in the Netherlands, dial +31 30 751 5155 (and press 5 for English).

To find schedules at train stations, check the yellow schedule posters, or look for screens listing upcoming departures. The direction of the train is identified by its final station. If you can’t find your train, or are unclear on departure details, visit an information booth or enlist the help of any official-looking employee.

Paying for Train Trips

While it’s still possible to buy tickets for train journeys (see below), the Netherlands is the first European country that lets you simply tap your credit card to pay for any journey, nationwide.

Contactless Pay: You’ll need a contactless credit or debit card with a Visa or Mastercard logo; you can also use a smartphone or smartwatch equipped with a payment app (such as Apple Pay or Google Wallet). At any train station, as you enter the turnstiles, simply tap your card or device to “check in”; then, at your destination, tap the same card or device to “check out.” The cost of a second-class journey will automatically be charged to your card.

While this usually works well (and saves time buying tickets at a machine or on an app), there are a few caveats. Each traveler needs their own payment card—so a couple needs two different payment methods, and a family or group needs one per person. It’s critical to “check out”—otherwise, you’ll be charged for the longest possible journey. And there are other situations where you may prefer to pay for tickets as you go, such as to access discounted fares (for youth or seniors); to buy a first-class ticket; or for international journeys (this system works only to the borders of the Netherlands).

Tickets: If you prefer to use old-fashioned tickets, that’s still possible. Dutch train tickets are issued either electronically (with a QR code, through the NS app or website), or on paper “chipcards.”

It’s best to download and use the NS app, which allows you to check schedules and buy tickets with your credit card. When you buy a ticket through the app, you’ll get an eticket (with a QR code to get through the turnstile). You can also buy tickets online at Ns.nl; your QR code will be emailed to you.

If you prefer to get tickets at the station, you can buy a single ticket at NS ticket machines (or, for a €0.50 service fee, at a ticket desk; single tickets purchased at the station are subject to a €1 surcharge).

Ticketing is different for international trains, including those to Belgium. For example, to buy electronic tickets, you’ll need to use a separate app (NS International) or website (www.nsinternational.nl), rather than the domestic Dutch options.

At the Station

At most Dutch stations—especially in cities and larger towns—you’ll need to go through turnstiles to access the platforms. Some services (often a few shops, plus ticket windows and machines) are outside of the turnstiles, while others (more shops, luggage lockers, if the station has them) are inside the turnstile-controlled area.

To go through the turnstiles, tap your contactless credit card or smartwatch, or scan your QR code. You’ll do the same to exit the turnstiles at the other end.

Bikes on Trains

If you’re traveling with a bike, you’ll pay extra to bring it on the train. In the Netherlands, bikes are allowed only during off-peak hours (9:00-16:00 & 18:30-6:30) plus all day on weekends, holidays, and during July and August. A “Bicycle Day Travel Card” is required (€7.50, no matter the destination). You must use designated bike storage racks.

Rail Passes

All rail passes that cover the Netherlands also cover Belgium and Luxembourg. Collectively, they’re called “Benelux” and count as one country as far as rail passes are concerned. Most visits to the Netherlands don’t cover enough miles to justify a rail pass, but if your itinerary extends beyond this relatively small region, a Eurail Global Pass could make sense. For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail-pass options for your train trip, visit RickSteves.com/rail.

Seat Reservations for Rail-Pass Holders: For the most part, you can hop on nearly any Dutch train with just your rail pass in hand. But the fast Eurostar trains that run between Amsterdam and Brussels (and between Brussels and Cologne, Paris, or London) do require seat reservations—and they’re expensive (Eurostar point-to-point tickets also cost much more on these routes—see next).

Trains to and from Belgium: Eurostar vs. IC

Two types of trains run between Dutch and Belgian cities: Eurostar trains are faster but much more expensive (potentially double or even triple the cost); IC (InterCity) trains are a better value unless you’re in a huge rush. For example, to get from Amsterdam to Antwerp might take 1.75 hours and cost €21-44 on an IC train; on Eurostar, you can get there in 1.25 hours, but the ticket costs €45-79 (depending on how early you purchase, with limited seats at the lower prices). Eurostar requires rail-pass holders to make expensive seat reservations; IC trains don’t require them. Before you book, pay careful attention to your options for train types—and the cost implications.

Rail Pass or Point-to-Point Tickets?

Will you be better off buying a rail pass or point-to-point tickets? It pays to know your options and choose what’s best for your itinerary.

Rail Passes

A Eurail Benelux Pass lets you travel by train in Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg for three to eight days (consecutively or not) within a one-month period. All three countries are also covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass.

Discounted rates are offered for seniors (age 60 and up) and youths (ages 12-27). Up to two kids (ages 4-11) can travel free with each adult-rate pass (but not with senior rates). All passes offer a choice of first or second class for all ages.

While most rail passes are delivered electronically, it’s smart to get your pass sorted before leaving home. For more on rail passes, including current prices and purchasing, visit RickSteves.com/rail.

Point-to-Point Tickets

If you’re taking just a couple of train rides, buying individual point-to-point tickets may save you money over a pass. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass plus reservations. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.

Map shows approximate costs, in US dollars, for one-way, second-class tickets on faster trains.

BUSES

While you’ll mostly use trains to travel in this region, a few destinations (for example, the charming villages of Edam and Marken, the tulip gardens of Keukenhof, the flower auction in Aalsmeer, or the Kröller-Müller Museum near Arnhem) are reachable only by bus.

Confusingly, there’s no unified national bus company for the Netherlands—various destinations are served by different companies. Arriva (www.arriva.nl), Connexxion (www.connexxion.nl), and EBS (www.localbus.nl) are the main companies. The best public transit website in the Netherlands for bus schedules is 9292.nl.

TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES

Most European taxis are reliable and cheap. Often, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. Uber operates in some parts of Europe, and rides can be cheaper than taxis. In some places, Uber works just like back home; in others, the app looks the same, but it hails a regular taxi rather than a private car. For more on taxis and Uber in Amsterdam, see here.

RENTING A CAR

It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (www.autoeurope.com—or the sometimes-cheaper www.autoeurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.

Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”

Rental Costs and Considerations

If you book well in advance, expect to pay $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. Diesel cars are more common in Europe than back home and can save you on fuel costs.

Manual vs. Automatic: Cars with manual transmission are more common in Europe and generally cheaper than automatic. If you need an automatic, it’s wise to book well in advance. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.

Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car-rental websites.

Choosing Pick-up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.

Crossing Borders in a Rental Car: Be aware that international trips—say, picking up in Amsterdam and dropping off in Paris—can be expensive if the rental company assesses a drop-off fee for crossing a border.

Always tell your car-rental company which countries you’ll be entering. Some companies levy extra insurance fees for trips taken in certain countries with certain cars (such as BMWs, Mercedes, and convertibles). Double-check with your rental agent that you have all the documentation you need before you drive off (especially if you’re crossing borders into non-Schengen countries, where you might need to present proof of insurance).

Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any dents or scratches are noted on your rental agreement (or take a photo of the damage). Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, GPS, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel or unleaded). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.

Car Insurance Options

When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra); get coverage through your credit card (essentially “free,” but more complicated if you need to use it); or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.

Basic CDW costs $15–30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).

If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your card company about how it works. If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical choice. Both options are typically valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland and Italy.

For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.

Navigation

Using Your Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. Remember to bring your phone’s car charger. In newer rental cars, you can plug your phone directly into a USB port (or connect with Bluetooth) and display GPS directions on the car’s dashboard screen.

To save on data, most mapping apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—provide offline route directions, but you’ll need data access for current traffic.

Dashboard Devices: Some rental cars come with their own dashboard GPS system. Ask about enabling this in advance; it’s sometimes an add-on cost (about $15-20/day).

Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with GPS, I always have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone’s GPS stops working. It’s smart to buy a good map before you go, or pick one up at a local TI, gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.

Driving

Road Rules: Traffic cameras are everywhere in the Netherlands; speeding tickets for even a few kilometers over the limit are common. Kids under age 12 (or less than about 5 feet tall) must ride in an appropriate child-safety seat. Seat belts are mandatory for all, and two beers under those belts are enough to land you in jail. Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be on at all times, and nearly all forbid handheld phone use. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the “International Travel” section at Travel.State.gov (enter Netherlands in the “Learn About Your Destination” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”).

Fuel: Gas (benzine in Dutch) is expensive—about $7 per gallon. Diesel (diesel or dieselolie in Dutch) is less—about $5 per gallon—and diesel cars get better mileage, so try to rent a diesel car to save money. Be sure you know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Some pumps are color-coded: Unleaded pumps are green and labeled “E,” while diesel pumps (often yellow or black) are labeled “B.” Gas is most expensive on freeways and cheapest at big supermarkets. About 30 percent of the filling stations in the Netherlands are unmanned, and your US credit and debit cards may not work at self-service gas pumps unless they have a chip. Look for stations with an attendant or be sure to carry sufficient cash in euros.

Parking: Finding a parking place can be a headache in larger cities. Ask your hotelier for ideas, and pay to park at well-patrolled lots (blue P signs direct you to parking lots). Parking structures usually require that you take a ticket with you and pay at a machine on your way back to the car. US credit cards may not work in these automated machines, but euro coins (and sometimes bills) will.

FLIGHTS

To compare flights, begin with a search engine: Easy-to-use Google Flights is the top site for flights to and within Europe, Kayak has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. Before you book, be sure to read the small print about change or cancellation policies, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.

Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights at least four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another.

Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable, though it leaves a larger carbon footprint than a train or bus. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet or Ryanair, along with Amsterdam-based Transavia (www.transavia.com). Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, carry-on size or weight limits, hidden fees (read the fine print carefully), and time-consuming treks to secondary airports.

EU Air Passenger Rights: Tourists are covered by Europe’s generous consumer protections for airline passengers. For any flight within the EU—and for flights into and out of the EU operated by European airlines—you’re entitled to compensation for delays of three or more hours (or if your flight is canceled or rescheduled, or a connection is missed). The service FlightRight.com walks you through the steps to apply for compensation.

Resources from Rick Steves

Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com

My expansive website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, beautiful photos, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and other social media channels.

To add context to your trip, we’ve compiled a list of recommended books, films, and TV shows that feature the Netherlands. See RickSteves.com/europe/books-movies.

Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/forums).

Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).

Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).

Rick Steves’ Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More

Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year about 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to book a tour, visit RickSteves.com/tours or call us at +1 425 771 8303.

Books: This book is just one of many in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.

TV Shows and Video Library: My public-television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year. Watch full episodes for free (RickSteves.com/tv). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (Classroom.RickSteves.com).

Monday Night Travel Talks: To raise your travel IQ, join our virtual travel party every Monday, featuring travel experts discussing European destinations, art, culture, food, travel tips, and more. Stream the live events or check out the video recordings (RickSteves.com/mnt).

Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced 60 free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, visit RickSteves.com/audioeurope.

Radio: My weekly public-radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 500 public-radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.

Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a selection of video clips from my public-television show and video recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/podcasts).

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