EATING IN AMSTERDAM
Fine Dining with a Chef’s Choice Menu
West Amsterdam and the Jordaan District
IN THE CANAL BELT, BETWEEN THE JORDAAN AND THE CITY CENTER
DE PIJP AND ALBERT CUYP MARKET
Hipster Hangouts in North Amsterdam (Amsterdam-Noord)
Amsterdam has a thriving and ever-changing restaurant scene. In this international city, there’s something for every taste. While I’ve listed many options, I’ve only scratched the surface; foodies should do their own research on what’s new and hot. Most hoteliers keep a list of reliable neighborhood eateries and know which places keep their travelers happy.
This extremely touristy city has several neighborhoods clogged with interchangeable, sloppy, touristy eateries—industrial-strength, crank-’em-out food halls with long menus, too many tables, and uninspired cooking. While these are temptingly easy, it’s well worth making a little extra effort to find something better (which is what I’ve focused on). With a bike or a willingness to walk just 10 minutes, you can easily find more rewarding dining experiences. If you eat on Leidseplein or along Damrak, it’s your own fault.
Note that many of my listings are lunch-only (usually termed “café” rather than “restaurant”)—good for a handy bite near major sights. Similarly, many top restaurants serve only dinner. Before trekking across town to any of my listings, check the hours.
At anything other than the most casual places, reservations are strongly recommended; in-the-know tourists compete with locals for a finite number of good restaurants, and if you “just show up” you’ll likely be disappointed. During the pandemic, restaurants were required to take reservations for all diners—leaving them with user-friendly booking widgets on their websites, which still work great for making stress-free reservations. If a place appears booked up online, it can’t hurt to call and see when they might squeeze you in.
While in Amsterdam, three characteristic food experiences are worth having on your list: an Indonesian rijsttafel dinner, a herring snack at a fish stand, and a drink or light meal at a characteristic brown café.
I rank eateries from € budget to €€€€ splurge. For more advice on eating in Holland, including ordering, tipping, and Dutch cuisine and beverages, see the “Eating” section of the Practicalities chapter.
Fine Dining with a Chef’s Choice Menu
If you want to eat very well and for a good value, try a fine restaurant offering a “chef’s choice” surprise menu. My three favorite choices have the same formula: multicourse tasting menus, often with smart wine pairing options; no à la carte; and always booked up in advance.
Unless otherwise noted, each of these places serves dinner daily from about 18:00-22:00. Expect to pay about €50 for a three-course meal without wine (more for additional courses). You’ll choose either a meat or a vegetarian fixed-price menu and leave it up to the chef to cook what they’re inspired to serve that day. It’s always fresh and seasonal, fusing local ingredients with an international twist; the plates are beautifully presented—and served by young, enthusiastic waitstaff; and you’ll be dining with smart locals rather than noisy tourists.
Expect a sleek, modern, dressy atmosphere (with mostly indoor seating) that’s romantic without pretense. Given the mystery of what you’ll eat paired with the certainty that it’ll be fine dining, your meal promises to be a gourmet adventure in creative Dutch cuisine.
To locate the first two places, see the “Central Amsterdam Hotels and Restaurants” map on here; for Gebr. Hartering see the “Southeast Amsterdam” map on here.
€€€€ Restaurant Hemelse Modder is beautifully situated on Waalseilands canal with a spacious dining area, fine wine list, and a subdued vibe (just beyond the Red Light District at Oude Waal 11, +31 20 624 3203, www.hemelsemodder.nl).
€€€€ Restaurant Klein Breda, three doors off Rembrandtplein, has a tight, trendy interior with an exciting energy, and a few bustling tables out front (also quick “businessman’s lunch” from 12:00, Utrechtsestraat 6, +31 20 362 0030, www.bredagroup-amsterdam.com).
€€€€ Gebr. Hartering, named for brothers Paul and Niek Hartering, applies the trendy “nose-to-tail” philosophy to Dutch cooking. It’s a bit more expensive than the other two, with a tight rustic-chic dining room that surrounds the open kitchen (Peperstraat 10, +31 20 421 0699, www.gebr-hartering.nl).
Central Amsterdam
You’ll likely have a meal at some point in the city’s core for a break from your sightseeing. Here are a few good spots near the big landmarks. For locations, see the “Central Amsterdam Hotels and Restaurants” map on here.
ON AND NEAR SPUI
€€€€ Restaurant d’Vijff Vlieghen, in spite of its name (“The Five Flies”), is a dressy museum of a restaurant with an interior right out of a Rembrandt painting. It’s a romantic splurge, offering Dutch and international cuisine, professional service, and a multicourse tasting menu with matching wines. Although it’s huge, its 300 seats are mixed into a candlelit labyrinth (daily, dinner only, Spuistraat 294, +31 20 530 4060, www.vijffvlieghen.nl).
€ The Lebanese Sajeria, a short walk from Spui, features wraps made with a flatbread called a manousheh—baked before your eyes on a hot stone (called a saj), then filled with a variety of meats and spices (also indoor seating upstairs, daily, Wijde Heisteeg 1, +31 20 737 3386, https://thesajeria.com). Now a chain, this place is expanding to other parts of the city.
€€€ The Seafood Bar focuses on fresh and fishy, with an appetizingly briny menu. From the white subway-tile walls to the modern decor, it’s understandably popular—reserve ahead for lunch or dinner. Their fish-and-chips are cheap and their mixed platters are popular for sharing (daily, Spui 15, +31 20 233 7452, www.theseafoodbar.nl). Another branch is near the Rijksmuseum (listed later).
€ Singel 404 Lunch Café, just across Singel canal from Spui and near the Nine Little Streets, is a sweet little Italian-feeling café serving burgers, bagel sandwiches, and more (daily until 18:00, Singel 404, +31 20 428 0154, https://singel404.nl).
Cheese, Wine, and Sandwiches to Go: € Gastrovino, right along Spui, is a cheese shop with good-quality products, including generous samples of Dutch cheeses. You can stock up for a picnic or order a sandwich—either to go, or to eat at one of the little café tables in the back, peeking out over a canal (daily until 19:00, Spuistraat 330, +31 20 775 3526, www.gastrovino.nl).
Stroopwafels: The delectable Dutch dessert of stroopwafels (thin, crispy waffles sandwiching gooey syrup) are nearly impossible to avoid in Amsterdam. Mass-produced and sold bagged in every shop, they’re much better when heated and slightly melty, as you can find them at many shops and food stalls. For something both classic and elevated, drop in at Lanskroon bakery, a few steps from Spui, where they make stroopwafels fresh as you wait (daily until 17:00, Singel 385, www.lanskroon.nl).
NEAR ROKIN
€€ Van Kerkwijk is tucked away on the narrow, relatively quiet street called Nes, running south from Dam Square. This cozy, popular, unpretentious but quirky eatery has a loyal following. The menu of freshly prepared international dishes is concise, supplemented by your server’s rundown of the day’s specials. They don’t take reservations, and there’s often a line (daily, Nes 41, +31 20 620 3316, www.vankerkwijk.com).
€€ Gartine is a hidden gem, filling a rustic and relaxed little space tucked just off the tourist-thronged Spui and Rokin zones that serves brunch until noon and then lunch after that. It’s a calm and classy spot for a light meal or high tea (high tea served from 14:00, no dinner, closed Mon-Tue, Taksteeg 7, +31 20 320 4132, www.gartine.nl).
€€ Pannenkoekenhuis Upstairs is a tight, tiny (just four tables), characteristic perch up some extremely steep stairs, where Arno, Ali, and Toto cook and serve delicious pancakes. They’ll tell you that I discovered this place long before Anthony Bourdain did (Mon-Sat until 18:00, Sun until 17:00, Grimburgwal 2, +31 20 626 5603, https://upstairspannenkoeken.nl).
€€ Café ’t Gasthuys is a simple quiet spot just off the busy boulevard with good canalside seating (Grimburgwal 7; see “Characteristic Brown Cafés,” later in this chapter).
NEAR THE MINT TOWER
€€ De Jaren Café (“The Years”) is a big, modern local favorite with a prime terrace overlooking a bend in the canal. It’s handy for light lunches (soups, salads, and burgers all day, plus sandwiches at lunch) or just coffee. On a sunny day or a balmy evening, the café’s canalside patio is a fine spot to savor a drink (daily, a long block up from Muntplein at Nieuwe Doelenstraat 20, +31 20 625 5771, https://cafedejaren.nl).
Today’s Indonesia (the East Indies) was a Dutch colony for over 300 years, until 1949. In those days, the Dutch called the archipelago “the Spice Islands” for its lucrative spice trade. And today, Indonesian cuisine still has an important place at the Dutch table.
The essential Indonesian dining experience is the rijsttafel (“rice table”)—a spread of a dozen or so different dishes and sauces (always available with a vegetarian option). Rijsttafel is not really an Indonesian dish, but a Dutch creation to showcase an extravagant array of food and spices from their colony.
You’ll begin with a mound of rice, then take a bit of chicken, beef, lamb, or vegetable in a variety of sauces. Start with mild and work up to spicy. Try to keep your rice clean—to cleanse your palate between each dish as you savor the variety of flavors and textures. (To more fully understand what you’re trying, peruse the Indonesian menu decoder on here.)
A rijsttafel is huge—generally more food than you can comfortably eat. Many restaurants require a two-person minimum order; budget diners can try asking to share one (with the partner ordering something lighter), but don’t count on it. More commonly, a single traveler dining alone may be able to order just one portion of rijsttafel—ask.
The rijsttafel is a memorable experience. But if you have a smaller appetite, you can order many of the dishes à la carte, or ask for nasi rames—a cheaper, one-plate version of a rijsttafel. Or try bami goreng, a plate of stir-fried noodles (or nasi goreng, fried rice) served with rijsttafel items.
Experiment with the different sauces. Sambal is a chutney-like hot peppery paste that comes in hundreds of varieties. Atjar tjampoer are sweet-and-sour mixed pickles that help cool down your tongue. Other common sauces and flavors are peanut (kacang), dark soy (kecap), sour tamarind (asam), and coconut (lodeh). You’ll wash it down with a Dutch beer and finish up with spekkoek, a super-moist cake with thin layers of pungent spices.
It’s a challenge—especially in Amsterdam’s touristy center—to get an authentic Indonesian rijsttafel, as many mix it up with Chinese cuisine. Here are some solid, truly Indonesian options: The first one is just outside the center, beyond Vondelpark, but it’s also the best choice for serious diners. The others are scattered around the city center. For a rijsttafel, the first two are more formal and finer (€35-45/person, reservations smart) and the third is cheaper and cheerier (reservations not possible). The last two feel trendy rather than traditional, but serve good food.
In Southwest Amsterdam (see map on here): The local choice for upmarket Indonesian cuisine, €€€€ Restaurant Blauw is bright and modern with none of the touristy bling. They have a great rijsttafel and interesting desserts. If you’re biking, just pedal through Vondelpark and out the back end—it’s across the street and to the left. Or ride tram #2 to Amstelveenseweg and walk a few minutes (dinner only, Amstelveenseweg 158, +31 20 675 50 00, https://restaurantblauw.nl).
Facing the Flower Market (see map on here): €€€€ Sampurna Indonesian Restaurant, while a bit dark, with more tourists and tighter seating, is great for the true Indonesian experience (daily, Singel 498, +31 20 625 3264, www.sampurna.com).
Near the Red Light District (see map on here): €€€ Aneka Rasa Indonesian Restaurant is a weirdly bright, spacious, and peaceful place at the northeast edge of the otherwise unappetizing Red Light District. Jerry takes your order at the counter, then you grab a seat and prepare to feast (dinner only, closed Sun, Warmoesstraat 25, +31 20 626 1560, https://anekarasa.nl).
In West and Central Amsterdam (see map on here): Happy eaters book ahead for the colorful, upscale, modern bar at €€€ Amoi (“Little Sister”). It feels hip, but the dishes—inspired by Tante (Aunt) Uddie—are traditional and delicious. They don’t serve a full rijsttafel, but their à la carte menu and creative cocktails make for a memorable meal (dinner only, closed Mon, Kinkerstraat 53a, +31 20 846 2755, www.amoiamsterdam.nl). You’ll find it along trendy Kinkerstraat, just west of the Jordaan near the Foodhallen (described later).
€€€€ Max Restaurant, a short walk from the Anne Frank House, offers an intriguing menu of upscale Indonesian food fused with French influences. Their formula lets you choose from a short list to assemble a two-course or three-course meal, or opt for the full rijsttafel tasting menu (reserve ahead, dinner only, closed Sun-Tue, Herenstraat 14, +31 20 420 0222, www.maxrestaurant.nl).
€€ Blue Amsterdam Restaurant may be a shopping-mall diner, but it has one of the best views in town and a menu that includes light lunches, soups, salads, and vegetarian dishes (in the Kalver Passage Mall at #206 Kalverstraat, just go in the mall and ride up the slanted elevator, daily until 18:30, +31 20 427 3901).
West Amsterdam and the Jordaan District
Nearly all these places are within a few scenic blocks of the Anne Frank House, providing handy lunches and atmospheric dinners in the city’s most charming neighborhood—perfect after taking my Jordaan Walk or while browsing the shops. Unless otherwise noted, for locations, see the “West Amsterdam Hotels and Restaurants” map on here.
FINER DINING IN THE JORDAAN
€€€ Café Restaurant de Reiger must serve up the best cooking of any eetcafé in the Jordaan. Famous for its fresh fish, ribs, good beer on tap, and casual, convivial bistro ambience, it’s part of the classic Jordaan scene. People leave with a smile (dinner only, closed Sun-Mon, Nieuwe Leliestraat 34, +31 20 624 7426, https://dereigeramsterdam.nl).
€€€ Ristorante Toscanini is an upmarket Italian place (no pizza here) that’s always packed. It’s a fixture among locals for a classy meal. With a lively, spacious ambience, nice acoustics, and great cuisine, this place is a treat—if you can get a seat. Reservations are essential. Eating with the dressy, local, in-the-know crowd and the busy open kitchen adds to the fun energy (dinner only, closed Mon, deep in the Jordaan at Lindengracht 75, +31 20 623 2813, http://restauranttoscanini.nl).
€€€ Restaurant Moeders is a celebration of motherhood with a homey menu and a mismatched world of tables, chairs, plates, and silverware—all donated by neighbors at the grand opening. The tight interior feels like a family rec room, and tables spill out onto the street overlooking a canal. The fun, accessible menu features Dutch home cooking—some locals say, the best you can get at a restaurant—plus international dishes. Make a reservation before walking out here (dinner only, Rozengracht 251, +31 20 626 7957, https://moeders.com).
JORDAAN’S “RESTAURANT ROW”
The Jordaan’s trendiest area is home to a variety of tempting places to eat. This is a youthful and exuberant scene, with high-energy eateries that spill out into lively brick-sidewalk seating. Stroll Tweede (“2nd”) Egelantiersdwarsstraat along its length from Egelantiers Canal to Westerstraat to survey your options: Japanese pancakes, Italian trattoria, top-end Spanish/Basque, fancy burgers, Mexican, dumplings, and more. Many of these places are popular; as you explore, consider reserving a spot for a return dinner visit. Here are my favorites:
€€ La Perla has a big, busy wood-fired pizza oven surrounded by a few humble tables, with a more trendy and jumbled dining room across the street and—best of all—sidewalk tables at one of the liveliest intersections in the Jordaan (daily, locations face each other at Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 14 and 53, reserve online, https://pizzaperla.nl).
€ Le Petit Deli, a quaint little spot with takeaway fare, also has a few seats to enjoy pastries, coffee, tea, salads, and sandwiches. While the sandwiches are freshly made, the service can be slow (until 18:00, closed every other Tue, Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat 16, +31 20 337 3228, www.lepetitdeli.nl).
€€ Sonneveld Eetcafe, named after the Dutch cabaret legend Wim Sonneveld (who lived in the Jordaan), has a warm staff who offer traditional fare (ribs and stamppot—mashed potatoes and sausage) plus good salads. In the spirit of Sonneveld, they crank up the music on Friday and Saturday. Whether you choose a cozy indoor table or sidewalk seating in good weather, you’ll feel right at home (daily, Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat 72, +31 20 423 4287, Cora with Aimee and Bryan).
Eerste (“1st”) Anjeliersdwarsstraat: This smaller street, one block parallel to “Restaurant Row,” has a few more €€ fun choices within steps of each other (all dinner only). Kinnaree Thai Restaurant, with a modern ambience, features delicious, freshly prepared Thai cuisine served by an attentive waitstaff (daily, at #14, +31 20 627 7153). Shah Jahan Indian Restaurant at #18 is steamy and real (daily, +31 20 624 0122). Jottum Mediterranean Tapas offers a fun, mostly Spanish mix-it-up-with-small-plates menu (across from the Thai place at #17, closed Mon, +31 20 420 5262).
Dessert: Monte Pelmo Ice Cream has good ice cream and often a long line (daily, Tweede Anjeliersdwarsstraat 17).
In the North Jordaan: A short walk north of the places listed above, this area also has some good choices—and it hosts a wonderful Saturday morning market with lots of tempting food stalls (plus a Monday flea market). €€ Café Winkel 43, the North Jordaan’s hangout, feels both classic and youthful, serving hearty plates and a beloved appeltaart. Rather than having a meal here, I’d come to enjoy the square and a slice of pie (daily, Noordermarkt 43, +31 20 623 0223, https://winkel43.nl).
IN THE CANAL BELT, BETWEEN THE JORDAAN AND THE CITY CENTER
These eateries lie in the idyllic Canal Belt between the narrow lanes of the Jordaan and the urbanity of the Dam Square/Spui/Rokin zone—handy to either area, and worth a short walk for the view as much as for the food. Also in this area is the excellent Max Restaurant (see the “Rijsttafel and Other Indonesian Dishes in Amsterdam,” sidebar, earlier).
€€ Proeflokaal A. Van Wees, a scenic five-minute walk west of Spui, is ideal for anyone seeking traditional Dutch cooking, a chance to sample jenever, or a classic atmosphere along a beautiful canal—or all three at once. Originally opened in 1973, it has been recently refurbished and modernized. They offer handy four-shot flights of jenever ranging from basic to high-end (€18-35), as well as an enticing menu of well-executed updated Dutch classics. The three seating zones are all equally appealing: a handful of canal-facing sidewalk tables; a few indoor/outdoor tables tucked a bit farther back, in the ornate entryway; and the cellar-like interior, with beams and barrels (reserve ahead, daily, Herengracht 319, +31 20 625 4334, https://proeflokaalvanwees.nl).
€€ The Pancake Bakery has long been a favorite of backpackers, youth hostelers, and people who just want a pancake for dinner. They offer a fun and creative menu with lots of hearty savory pancakes (including a rainbow of international-themed options—kind of like a pizza place, but with pancakes) and dessert pancakes. The sloppy scene feels like a bar, with a quieter zone upstairs (daily, American breakfasts until noon, two blocks north of the Anne Frank House at Prinsengracht 191, +31 20 625 1333).
€€€ Restaurant De Belhamel, tucked at the northwest corner of the historic Canal Belt, is a favorite among locals for dishes with French flair. They have a few sidewalk tables and a beautiful Art Nouveau interior—more brasserie than brown café. For well-executed meals in a memorable setting, it’s worth reserving ahead (daily, Brouwersgracht 60—see the “Central Amsterdam Hotels and Restaurants Map” on here, +31 20 622 1095, www.belhamel.nl).
€€ Café van Zuylen on Torensluis Bridge (a.k.a. “Big Head Square”) is great in nice weather for a scenic meal and perfect for people watching. In bad weather, you can sit in the glassed-in front room or the cozier and classier back room (farther down Torensteeg). They serve salads, burgers, local standards, and Dutch and Belgian beers on tap (daily, Torensteeg 4—see the “Central Amsterdam Hotels and Restaurants Map” on here, +31 20 639 1055).
€ Bánh Mì Deli, across the canal from the Anne Frank House, assembles fresh Vietnamese sandwiches to order. Modern and delicious, it’s a handy place to grab lunch between sightseeing stops (lunch only, closed Tue, Prinsengracht 172, +31 20 244 6601, www.banhmideli.nl).
Prinsengracht Brown Cafés near the Anne Frank House: Two recommended €€ brown cafés are set along Prinsengracht. See the “Characteristic Brown Cafés” section later in this chapter for lengthier descriptions of Café ’t Smalle, a good place for a light lunch with canalside seating (Egelantiersgracht 12), and Café de Prins, just across the canal from the Anne Frank House, with delightful canalside tables and a longer menu than most.
BEYOND THE JORDAAN
Foodhallen, a quick tram ride or 15-minute walk southwest of the Jordaan, is an international food festival. This lively, trendy food circus jams two dozen food and drink vendors and lots of communal seating into an atmospheric old tram depot. It’s lively and rollicking, and diners can take their pick: Basque tapas, Chinese dim sum, French crêpes, Mexican tacos, Dutch bitterballen, and much more (daily, Bellamyplein 51, take tram #7 to Bilderdijkstraat, www.foodhallen.nl). At the back end, the food circus feeds into a gigantic bar serving food, called Kanarie Club. The food hall is just one part of the giant brick Hallen complex, a former tram depot that has been restored as a cultural center with a library, shops, art galleries, a cinema, a shared workspace, and a big underground bike garage. The surrounding streets of the “Hallenkwartier” have more food options—gourmet ice cream, coffee roasters, wine bars, and so on.
Kinkerstraat—the street between the Foodhallen and the heart of the Jordaan—is an emerging foodie hotspot, lined with a variety of intriguing places (including the recommended Amoi restaurant; see the “Rijsttafel and Other Indonesian Dishes in Amsterdam” sidebar, earlier).
Southwest Amsterdam
The area surrounding Amsterdam’s museum quarter and nearby Vondelpark is one of the city’s most upscale, with swanky broad boulevards, the top-of-the-line fashion street (P. C. Hooftstraat), and exclusive homes. While a few eateries are just a few steps from the big museums, my picks are within a 10-minute walk and have better food and service. These restaurants are good for a lunch or early dinner combined with museum-going. For locations, see the “Southwest Amsterdam Hotels and Restaurants” map on here.
NEAR THE RIJKSMUSEUM
€€€ Buffet van Odette, an elegant little restaurant with a feminine twinkle, serves Mediterranean and Italian cuisine with lots of farm-fresh, seasonal vegetables. Select from three main dishes—meat, fish, or vegetarian. It’s healthy, unpretentious, romantic, and peaceful, with a good wine list. A few tables outside face a picturesque canal (closed Sun-Tue, two blocks past the Amsterdam Pipe Museum at Prinsengracht 598, +31 20 423 6034, https://buffet-amsterdam.nl).
€€€ The Seafood Bar—modern, slick, and popular—features a tasty array of seafood. The menu focuses on fresh and sustainable dishes with a Burgundian flair (reservations smart, daily, Van Baerlestraat 5, between the Rijksmuseum and Vondelpark, +31 20 670 8355, www.theseafoodbar.nl). Another branch is in the city center, on Spui (listed earlier).
€ Simple Lunches on Nieuwe Spiegelstraat: This charming row of antiques shops, a few short blocks directly in front of the Rijksmuseum, is a handy place to grab a quick bite and stretch your legs in a pretty canalside area. Along here, consider a couple of handy chains (both open daily): € Soupenzo for hearty soups (at #54) and € Stach for sandwiches, quiches, and pastries (at #52).
NEAR LEIDSEPLEIN
I’d avoid the eateries right on Leidseplein, which tend to be industrial-strength tourist traps. But there are a few intriguing choices nearby.
€€€ De Balie Grand Café is a ground-floor eatery in a former prison complex that’s now home to galleries and concert venues. While just a block off the touristy Leidseplein, you’ll feel as if you’re in a parallel, tourist-free world. They serve salads, sandwiches, and simple plates, and your bill helps support culture and progressive thinking—peruse the program of events at your table (daily, local beers, Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10, +31 20 553 5130, https://debalie.nl).
For more choices, wander along Lange Leidsedwarsstraat, one block to the north, and head east. This features a lineup of tourist-friendly, international eateries—heavy on the Italian, but also Middle Eastern, Greek, and much more. Tucked among this United Nations of flags is €€ The Pantry, an unassuming little pocket of very traditional Dutch cooking. With a cozy chandeliers-and-pottery interior and a few sidewalk tables, they feature Dutch classics done well, along with proudly Dutch beers (daily, Leidsekruisstraat 21, +31 20 6200 922, www.thepantry.nl).
Relaxing in Vondelpark: €€ ‘T Blauwe Theehuis (“The Blue Tea House”), deep in Vondelpark, has been a popular meeting place for a century, welcoming all generations for drinks and light meals. The leafy setting is like a Monet painting. These days, it’s owned by a local brewery, and churns out craft brews, sandwiches, and pizza. Sit at tables outside, inside, and on the rooftop (daily, Vondelpark 5, +31 20 662 0254).
DE PIJP AND ALBERT CUYP MARKET
This workaday, fun-to-say (“deh peep”) neighborhood is just beyond the Southern Canal Belt—immediately behind the Heineken Experience, and less than a 15-minute walk from the Rijksmuseum. De Pijp is home to Amsterdam’s best street market, the Albert Cuyp Market, which fills Albert Cuypstraat six days a week. This area can be handy for lunch after a busy morning of museum-going; the market also merits a special trip just to check it out (busiest on Sat, worthwhile any day except Sun, when it’s closed). And now that the north-south Metro line #52 has a stop right in the heart of the market zone (stop: De Pijp), it’s easier than ever to drop in and explore.
There are two approaches to eating here: Graze the market stalls, while also dropping in on local brick-and-mortar shops; or have a full meal at a sit-down restaurant. The epicenter of the action is at the intersection of Albert Cuypstraat and Eerste van der Helststraat.
Go for a slow lap up and down Albert Cuypstraat, browsing for produce, fresh fish and seafood, baked goods, Dutch cheeses, sweets, and a variety of street food: hummus, roasted nuts, roasted or fried chicken, international dishes, and so on. There are also stalls selling clothing, housewares, flowers, and so on.
You can also patronize some of the brick-and-mortar places that cling like barnacles onto the market action. Several line Eerste van der Helststraat, including the popular brunch spot Wasserette (at #27, named for a former launderette on this spot, with great people-watching tables); Tjin’s Toko (at #64, closed Sun), a Surinamese-Chinese grocery and deli, with a takeout counter up front selling delicious sandwiches and other prepared foods; Sonny (at #43), a beloved falafel shop that also has excellent fries and sauces; and the herring stand Volendammer Vishandel (at #60).
While most of these are lunch-only, De Pijp also has some good dinner spots. €€ Warung Spang Makandra is a great opportunity to sample Surinamese cuisine in a trendy yet accessible dining room, with an interesting menu, reasonable prices, and efficient but helpful service. If you’re curious to try Surinamese food, this is worth venturing to for lunch or dinner—even outside of the market bustle (daily, Gerard Doustraat 33, +31 20 670 5081, www.spangmakandra.nl).
Southeast Amsterdam
If you’re sightseeing in the Jewish Cultural Quarter beyond Waterlooplein, these places are excellent options. For locations, see the “Southeast Amsterdam” map on here.
€€ Café-Restaurant de Plantage was built in the late 1800s in the Art Nouveau style as part of the venerable Artis Zoo (it was the original zoo patrons’ club). It opens up on a prize-winning public square with spoonbills and flamingos and a lively children’s fountain. A great scene both inside and out, it serves European and Mediterranean plates (closed Mon, across the street from the Dutch Resistance Museum at Plantage Kerklaan 36, +31 20 760 6800, www.caferestaurantdeplantage.nl).
€€€ Café Dignita Hoftuin, in the park between the H’ART Museum and the Dutch Holocaust Memorial of Names, is a fine choice for a drink or meal. With a charming, glassed-in interior and a fine outdoor terrace, this popular place books up far ahead—be sure to reserve (brunchy menu, daily until 18:00, Nieuwe Herengracht 18a, +31 20 370 2723, https://eatwelldogood.nl/en/dignita-hoftuin/).
Hipster Hangouts in North Amsterdam (Amsterdam-Noord)
To really get away from the tourists (and all that history), hop on the free 15-minute ferry behind Centraal station to the former shipyards (NDSM). For a description of this post-industrial (in places, almost post-apocalyptic) corner of the city, see here in the Sights in Amsterdam chapter.
On arrival at NDSM, the eateries in the modern condo building straight ahead are glitzy but nothing special. To tap into what’s unique about this area, consider the following options instead.
Industrial Eateries: Departing the ferry, head right—between the blight and shipping containers—and curl back toward the water, watching for €€ Pllek, one of the biggest and best-known choices at NDSM. The main interior is a gigantic corrugated-metal hall, looking out over the IJ with the city center on the horizon, and with discarded shipping containers grafted onto its hull. Out front, a gravelly “beach bar” sprawls toward the banks of the IJ. As much a place to party the night away as to get a good meal, it has fun cocktails and a solid, enticing menu of international fare (daily, T.T. Neveritaweg 59, +31 20 290 0020, https://pllek.nl).
Nearby (a bit inland), €€ Cannibale Royale du Noord has another rustic, industrial hall interior. An outpost of an Amsterdam-wide chain, this is a solid choice for meat lovers—you’ll smell the rich smoke from its grill before you see it, and the menu of burgers, ribs, chicken, and steak is enticing (nightly for dinner, also Sat-Sun for lunch, Mt. Ondinaweg 32, +31 20 211 1116, https://cannibaleroyale.nl).
A short walk away from the water and next to the can’t-miss-it SRAAT Museum of street art, €€€ IJver is yet another variation on this same theme. In this case, the industrial hall feels a little more refined, with some of the rusty edges sanded off, and an “indoor terrace” (daily, Scheepsbouwkade 72, +31 20 247 1001, https://ijveramsterdam.nl).
An Artsy Oasis in the Middle of Nowhere: €€ Café de Ceuvel is worth a brief pedal or Uber ride from either of the ferry-dock areas (it’s in a no-man’s-land, surrounded by industrial and suburban sprawl, roughly between the NDSM and Buiksloterweg docks). This is not just a destination restaurant, but a sprawling campus built upon a once-polluted riverside plot. It’s a ramshackle fantasy world of shiplap cottages, boardwalks, secret gardens, tents, outdoor tables, and even a floating hotel made of lashed-together boats and barges. The complex is anchored by its good restaurant: The interior feels like a treehouse that’s taken root, with windows overlooking the water, and there’s ample outdoor seating with rickety-chic ambience. The menu is entirely vegan, sustainable, international, and delicious (daily, Korte Papaverweg 4, +31 20 229 6210, https://deceuvel.nl). They host frequent events, concerts, and parties (check the schedule on their website). Come here not just for a meal, but on a balmy evening to explore the whole area—which feels like a little corner of hipster Berlin transplanted to a post-industrial Dutch polder.
Cheap and Fast Eats
To dine cheaply yet memorably, grab a meal to go, then find a bench on a lively neighborhood square or along a canal. Sandwiches (broodjes) of delicious cheese on fresh bread are cheap at snack bars, delis, and broodje shops. International restaurants—many of them Indonesian or Surinamese, and several named with varying puns on “Wok”—serve inexpensive, splittable carryout meals. Middle Eastern fast-food stands and diners abound, offering a variety of meats or falafel wrapped in pita bread. Supermarkets and grocery stores are handy for anyone seeking picnic fare.
Supermarkets: The big name in Holland is Albert Heijn, a handy chain with long hours, picnic-friendly deli sections with takeaway salads and sandwiches, good prices, and a bright-blue color scheme that’s close to every Dutch heart (long hours daily). Helpful locations are on Museumplein (Van Baerlestraat 33—see the map on here), and throughout the center (see the map on here): near Dam Square behind the Royal Palace (Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 226), near the Mint Tower (Koningsplein 4), on Leidsestraat (at Koningsplein, on the corner of Leidsestraat and Singel), and inside Centraal station (at the far end of the passage under the tracks).
Dutch Fried Fast Food: An Amsterdam junk-food institution, Febo (FAY-boh) caters mainly to late-night drinkers looking for greasy eats to soak up the booze—or for anyone who just wants to sample some classic Dutch fried foods. A wall of self-service, coin-op (or card-op) windows provides freshly fried croquettes, cheese, burgers, and so on. This Dutch institution began with the beef croquette (rundvleeskroket); rather than a dry potato filling, the interior is meaty and luxuriously creamy. While picky diners turn up their noses, a certain breed of locals swears by their slogan—De lekkerste! (The tastiest!) You’ll find branches all over town, including at Leidsestraat 94, just north of Leidseplein (see the map on here); in the Red Light District (facing the Old Church across the canal—see the map on here); and near Rembrandtplein and the Tuschinski Theater (see the map on here).
Not “French” Fries: Resist the inclination to call your fries “French” here in the land of their origin. Amsterdam has countless Vlaamse friets (“Flemish fries”) stands serving fries, and often an arsenal of wicked deep-fried gut bombs referred to as “snacks.” Mayonnaise is the default topping, but there’s a world of other variations: ketchup, curry sauce, satay sauce (peanut), and so on. Fresh-chopped raw onions can also be sprinkled over the top. Or go bold and try a “special” version with multiple sauces, including the combo of mayo-nnaise, satay sauce, and raw onions—called patatje oorlog, literally “fries of war.” Locals and in-the-know visitors head for € Vlemnickx, an unpretentious hole-in-the-wall friets counter hiding just off the main Kalverstraat shopping street. They sell only fries, with a wide variety of sauces—they call themselves “de sausmeesters” (daily, Voetboogstraat 31—see the map on here).
Amsterdam Experiences
TRADITIONAL HERRING STANDS
Amsterdam’s old-fashioned fish stands (haringhandel) sell herring sandwiches and other salty seafood concoctions, usually from easy photo menus. Most stands are generally open 10:00-18:00 (often closed Sun-Mon). For more on this fishy tradition—including what and how to order—see here.
Like a local hot dog stand, these are designed to accommodate cyclists swooping through to pick up a quick bite. You’ll see herring stands on convenient corners and bridges all over the country. Here are a few with handy locations and good reputations in Amsterdam (for locations, see the map on here).
Near Centraal Station: A few blocks from Centraal station on Singel canal, the well-established Stubbe’s Haring is where the Stubbe family has been selling herring for 100 years.
Near Dam Square: Just behind the Royal Palace, De Zeevang sits at a busy tram-and-traffic intersection (corner of Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal and Raadhuisstraat).
On Spui Square: Central Jonk Volendammer Haringhandel is at the Rokin end of Spui Square.
On Koningsplein (King’s Square): The especially handy Frens Haringhandel is right along my Amsterdam City Walk, between the Flower Market and Spui.
CHARACTERISTIC BROWN CAFÉS
Gezellig Places for a Drink or Light Bar-Snack Meal
Be sure to experience the Dutch institution of the bruin café (brown café)—so called for the typically hardwood decor and nicotine-stained walls. (While cigarette smoking was banned several years ago—making these places even more inviting to nonsmokers—the traditional color survives.) Akin to a British pub, the corner brown café is the neighborhood’s living room. Exemplifying the gezellig (cozy) quality that the Dutch hold dear, these are convivial hangouts, where you can focus on conversation while slowly nursing a drink (nondrinkers can enjoy a soft drink or coffee).
Some brown cafés specialize in beer, while others focus on the Dutch gin, jenever; most also serve wine (for more on drinks, see here). Some offer light meals, but any food menu is usually very short—often limited to bar snacks called hapjes (mostly deep-fried goodies; common options are listed on here).
Admittedly, the line separating a brown café from a plain old bar is blurry, but here are my favorites. While some brown cafés are jammed with noisy drinkers, others are a bit more sleepy and mellow.
To locate the next four places, see the map on here.
In the North Jordaan: A classic brown café, € Café ’t Papeneiland has Delft tiles, an evocative old stove, and a stay-awhile perch overlooking a canal with welcoming benches. It’s been the neighborhood hangout since the 17th century. It feels a little exclusive; patrons who come here to drink and chat aren’t eager to see it overrun by tourists (daily, drinks but almost no food—cheese or liverwurst sandwiches plus famous apple pie, overlooking northwest end of Prinsengracht at #2, +31 20 624 1989).
Buried Deep in the Jordaan: Extremely charming € Café ’t Smalle has three zones where you can enjoy a light lunch or a drink: at a few canalside tables, inside around the bar, and up some steep stairs in a quaint little back room. The café is open late and serves both bar snacks and simple meals of soups, salads, burgers, and sandwiches (plenty of fine Dutch beers on tap, interesting wines by the glass; at Egelantiersgracht 12—where it hits Prinsengracht, +31 20 623 9617).
€€ Café de Prins, with pleasant outdoor seating on the canal across and just up from the Anne Frank House, is a fine spot for poffertjes—those beloved tiny Dutch pancakes—as well as simple bar food (daily, Prinsengracht 124, +31 20 624 9382).
Between the Jordaan and Centraal Station: Beer lovers will find the ideal brown-café experience at € Proeflokaal Arendsnest. Awash in wonderful old-fashioned decor, it displays 52 rotating Dutch beers (not a single Belgian one) “on tap/on draft” on a big chalkboard. They also have more than a hundred bottled beers, as well as jenever. The only food is Dutch bar snacks—local meats and cheeses with crackers—but the place is so inviting (with seating inside and on the canal) that it’s tempting to make them into a meal (Mon-Fri from 14:00, Sat-Sun from 12:00, Herengracht 90, +31 20 421 2057).
Other Jordaan Brown Cafés: Earlier in this chapter, I recommend some places that aren’t quite “brown cafés” but offer similar ambience. These include Café Winkel 43 (at the north end of the Jordaan) and Café van Zuylen (with a longer menu than most and a sterling location right on “Big Head Square”; see listings for details).
Between Centraal Station and the Red Lights: Fittingly for this neighborhood, € Proeflokaal de Ooievaar (“Pelican”) feels like a grubby sailors’ tavern—which is exactly what it was. Although it dates from the golden age of Dutch seafarers (1782), today its tight nautical-themed interior is crammed with tourists coming up for air from the crowded Red Light District streets (daily, on the edge of the Red Light District at Sint Olofspoort 1—see the map on here, look for the pelican on the sign, +31 20 420 9004).
Near Rokin: With a lovely, secluded back room and peaceful canalside seating, €€ Café ’t Gasthuys offers a long bar and sometimes slow service. I’d come here to eat outside on a quiet canal in the city center. The busy dumbwaiter cranks out light lunches, sandwiches, and reasonably priced basic dinners (cheeseburgers are a favorite, daily, Grimburgwal 7—see the map on here, +31 20 624 8230).
On Spui Square: A classic drinking bar, € Café Hoppe is as brown as can be. This is a good choice if you want to hang out with locals and drink hard. “Hoppe” is their house brew, but there are many beers on tap, a good selection of traditional drinks, and big wooden casks of jenever. They have sandwiches until 18:00, very simple bar food, a packed interior, and fun stools outside to oversee the action on Spui (daily, Spui 18, +31 20 420 4420). Mr. Heineken drank wine here.
Near Waterlooplein: Great for drinks and snacks with a view, € Café de Sluyswacht is just across the street from Rembrandt’s House. This “Lockkeeper’s House” dates from 1695. Their outdoor terrace, idyllically looking out over wide canals, has one of Amsterdam’s best views. If the weather’s bad, head upstairs and hunker down in the cozy painted-wood room. While mostly about the drinks, they serve bar snacks that you could turn into a light—and very scenic—meal (Dutch and Belgian beers on tap, daily, Jodenbreestraat 1—for location, see the map on here, +31 20 625 7611).