Sleeping in Amsterdam — Rick Steves Amsterdam & the Netherlands (5th Ed, 2025)

Greeting a new day by descending steep stairs and stepping into a leafy canalside scene—graceful bridges, historic gables, and bikes clattering on cobbles—is a fun part of experiencing Amsterdam. However, be aware that you’ll pay dearly for that privilege. Over the past several years, prices for accommodations in this city have gone up drastically. To combat “overtourism,” city authorities have capped the number of hotel rooms; done their best to effectively shut down Airbnb; and heavily regulated small mom-and-pop B&Bs, forcing many out of business. The result is that there simply aren’t enough rooms to meet demand, and prices have skyrocketed.

You’ll pay the most during the peak tourist season, which lasts from April (when the Keukenhof flower show begins) all the way through September. Weekends or special events are higher still. Wherever you stay, and whatever your budget is, it’s critical to book as early as possible. You’re competing with millions of other visitors for a finite number of good lodgings. This is one city where the early bird gets the worm (and, often, better rates).

Hotel Costs and Considerations

If you’re dreaming of that classic canalside hotel experience, anything reasonably comfortable in the city center’s historic Canal Belt during busy times will cost you at least €300 for a double; something that would qualify as “midrange” in most European cities will be closer to €400. You may find accommodations in the €200 range, but buyer beware—they likely have rough edges.

Those who can afford to splurge may find it worth doing so here; a €400 room is far more appealing for that classic Amsterdam experience than a €200 room. If that’s not in your budget, consider these alternatives: Come off-season; look for hotels slightly outside the city center (such as in the Museumplein area), which have less canalside charm but are somewhat more affordable; or stay farther afield, in the suburbs or modern parts of the city, with little charm but good public transit connections.

A B&B or Airbnb can save you a little, but options have dwindled thanks to increasingly draconian regulations. Traditional B&Bs are legally allowed to rent only two rooms (with two people maximum per room, including kids—that means no “family rooms”), and the hosts must live on-site. These can provide a better value and a nice connection with a local family; I’ve listed a few good options, but they book up fast. Airbnb too is now strictly restricted: Many Amsterdammers blame it for driving up housing costs and causing formerly “traditional” areas to lose some of their character. While you’ll still find a few options, many are more like B&Bs (a room in a private home) or subject to other caveats.

For the most reasonable rates, you could sleep in another town or city and commute into Amsterdam for your sightseeing. Haarlem (20 minutes by train), Leiden (30 minutes by train), Edam (30 minutes by bus), or even Delft (45 minutes by train) are just some of the appealing places that offer Dutch urban charm at about half the cost of central Amsterdam (see those chapters for recommendations).

Hotel Neighborhoods

I’ve grouped my Amsterdam hotel listings into several neighborhoods, each of which has its own character.

West Amsterdam (which includes the Jordaan) is your classic Amsterdam address: It has Old World ambience, with quiet canals, traditional Dutch architecture, and candlelit restaurants. It’s also just minutes on foot to Dam Square. Consequently, it’s the most expensive neighborhood in town. Many of my hotels are charming, friendly gabled mansions (albeit with small rooms and lots of stairs).

Central Amsterdam works for people who like shopping, tourist sights, and easy access to public transit (including Centraal station). On the downside, the area has traffic noise, concrete, and urban grittiness, and the hotels can lack character.

Southwest Amsterdam, farther afield in the quieter semi-suburban neighborhood around Vondelpark and Museumplein (sometimes called the Museumkwartier), is close to the Rijks and Van Gogh museums. While it lacks canalside ambience—with buildings that are 100 years old rather than 300 or 400—it has a certain urban gentility, and prices can be significantly lower than those at more central accommodations. The downside is that it’s a bit farther out, a 30-minute walk from Dam Square (or 40 minutes from Centraal station). Fortunately, it’s well connected by public transit: Museumplein has a stop both for the airport bus #397 and for the super-handy tram #2/#12 line that cuts through the heart of the city.

Also within this general area, just north of bustling Leidseplein, the charming Southern Canal Belt can be a bit of a “Goldilocks”: more canal charm, a little closer to the heart of town, and still less expensive than the West or Central Amsterdam areas. Alas, this zone also has relatively few accommodations.

More Hotel Tips

Be aware of the busiest times, when you’ll want to book as far ahead as possible: tulip season (late March-mid-May), conventions, festivals (see RickSteves.com/europe/festivals), and summer weekends.

Downtown Amsterdam is a sea of construction: cranes for big transportation projects and small crews of bricklayers repairing the wobbly, cobbled streets that line the canals. Canalside rooms can come with great views—and early-morning construction-crew noise. Light sleepers should ask for a quiet room in the back. Parking in Amsterdam is even worse than driving—if you must park a car, ask your hotelier for advice (or stay elsewhere, and come into town by train).

Canal houses were built tight. They have steep stairs with narrow treads, and only some have elevators. If that’s a problem, look for a hotel with an elevator—and confirm that it reaches your room (many require a few steps, sometimes steep ones, in addition to the elevator ride).

I rank accommodations from € budget to €€€€ splurge. For the best deal, contact my family-run places directly by phone or email. When you book direct, the owner avoids a commission and may be able to offer a discount. For more details on reservations, short-term rentals, and more, see the “Sleeping” section in the Practicalities chapter.

West Amsterdam

This area oozes elegance and class, and is fairly quiet at night.

STATELY CANALSIDE HOTELS

These hotels face historic canals, and their rooms can feel like they’re from another century. The first two come with lovely lobbies; the last listing is smaller and has a quaint tearoom.

€€€€ Hotel Ambassade is elegant, traditional, and modern all at once, lacing together 55 rooms in a maze of connected houses. At this well-run place, the staff is top-notch, and the library of books signed by authors who’ve slept here was designed by Rijksmuseum architects. The good breakfast comes in a fine dining room with big windows over the canal—also open for lunch and dinner (RS%, breakfast extra, air-con, Herengracht 341, +31 20 555 0222, https://ambassade-hotel.nl, info@ambassade-hotel.nl).

€€€€ The Toren, part of the Pavilions group, is a pleasant, canalside mansion with a peaceful backyard garden. This classy, romantic hotel has 40 rooms on a quiet street two blocks northeast of the Anne Frank House, at the edge of the Jordaan. The gilt-frame, velvet-curtained rooms try hard to feel elegant, and the chandeliered lounge will lure you to linger over breakfast (RS%—use code “RSTEVES,” breakfast extra, air-con, some stairs, laundry, valet parking, Keizersgracht 164, +31 20 622 6033, www.thetoren.nl, info@thetoren.nl).

€€€€ ’t Hotel is cozy, with eight small, fresh rooms, each delicately decorated with handmade wallpaper designed by the owner’s daughter. The 17th-century house offers garden and canal views and a tearoom where you’ll enjoy breakfast (family room, air-con, no elevator, Leliegracht 18, +31 20 422 2741, https://thotel.nl, amsterdam@thotel.nl).

CANALSIDE HOTELS AND B&BS

Some of these hotels have basic, downright spare rooms; others offer tight-spaced boutique comfort—but all have romantic canalside charm.

€€€€ Mr. Jordaan Hotel, in the heart of this Greenwich Village-like neighborhood, offers 34 rooms with funky-but-stylish touches. Some are very snug, but they warn you in advance it’s a “cozy” double (RS%—use code “enjoyjordaan” when booking, breakfast extra, family rooms available, air-con, staff can arrange local guides and canal boat rides, Bloemgracht 102, +31 20 626 5801, https://mrjordaan.nl, stay@mrjordaan.nl).

€€€€ Hotel Hegra is cozy, with 10 rooms filling a 17th-century merchant’s house overlooking the canal. While some rooms are small, everything is clean, modern, and functional (no breakfast, no air-con, no elevator, family room, some canal views, part of the Stanley Hotels group, just north of Wolvenstraat at Herengracht 269, +31 6 2447 1242, www.hotelhegra.be, info@hotelhegra.nl).

€€€€ The Times Hotel is a business-comfort hotel in a scenic canal setting. The 33 modern rooms are tight, and a handful have real bathtubs instead of just a shower. Rooms are spare yet elegant, decorated in muted tones (family room, air-con, valet parking, Herengracht 135, +31 20 330 6030, https://thetimeshotel.nl, info@thetimeshotel.com; Glenn, Marco, and Gabriella at the front desk).

€€€ Linden Hotel is Mr. Jordaan’s sister hotel, with tight teal-and-brown rooms, friendly staff, and slightly cheaper rates. While it’s on the edge of the Jordaan neighborhood, some of its 25 rooms have canal views (RS%—use code “enjoylinden” when booking, breakfast extra, family rooms, air-con, Lindengracht 251, +31 20 622 1460, https://lindenhotel.nl, info@lindenhotel.nl).

€€€ Wiechmann Hotel’s 37 rooms are worn and sparsely furnished with just the dark-wood essentials, but they’re spacious, and the gezellig (cozy) public areas are chock-full of Old World charm. Expect lots of stairs and no elevator in this historic building; the new owners may renovate, which could increase prices (family rooms, some canal views, back rooms are quiet, nicely located at Prinsengracht 328, +31 20 626 3321, www.hotelwiechmann.nl, info@hotelwiechmann.nl).

Central Amsterdam

You won’t get an especially warm welcome at some of these places, but for a no-nonsense room that’s convenient to plenty of tram lines, these fit the bill. If you enjoy getting to know the Dutch and appreciate a personal touch, consider the Herengracht 21—one of the few traditional B&Bs remaining in Amsterdam.

NEAR SINGEL CANAL AND CENTRAAL STATION

€€€€ Hotel The Craftsmen, run by the Zandbergen family, faces the Singel canal a 10-minute walk from Centraal station. Its 14 very different rooms range from grand and roomy to tight and quirky (to be clear on exactly what you’re getting, compare your options carefully on their website before booking). They’re cleverly decorated with reclaimed industrial items: For example, the Cartographer room’s reading lights are made from sextants, and the Clockmaker room features art created from antique clock pieces (family rooms, air-con in most rooms, Singel 83, entrance on Lijnbaanssteeg, +31 20 210 1218, https://hotelthecraftsmen.com, info@hotelthecraftsmen.nl).

€€€ Max Brown Hotel, the flagship hotel of a boutique-style chain, has a trendy urban design geared toward a hipster clientele. Located in a quiet neighborhood just west of Centraal station, it offers 34 modern rooms and public areas with funky-chic details. Rooms with canal views are pricier and breezier (spread over three canalside buildings, guest happy hour, no elevator, Herengracht 13, +31 20 710 7288, www.maxbrownhotels.com, hello.cd@maxbrownamsterdam.com). Another location is near Vondelpark and the Rijksmuseum.

€€ Herengracht 21 B&B is on the same quiet street as the Max Brown Hotel, near Centraal station, and offers two stylish, intimate rooms in a canal house filled with art. This traditional B&B is run with care by lovely Loes Olden; her husband, Ton, offers private tours in their 1921 canal boat (tours-€200/4 people, 2 hours, weather permitting; Herengracht 21, +31 20 625 6305, mobile +31 6 2812 0962, https://herengracht21.nl, loes@herengracht21.nl).

€€ Hotel Ibis Amsterdam Centre, next door to Centraal station, is a modern, efficient, 363-room place. It offers a handy location, comfort, and good value, without a hint of charm. While the prices can vary wildly, if you can get a deal, this could be a suitable mid-budget choice (breakfast extra, air-con, facing Centraal station, go left toward the multistory bicycle garage to Stationsplein 49; +31 20 721 9172, www.ibishotel.com, h1556@accor.com).

NEAR THE MINT TOWER

€€€€ Hotel Résidence Le Coin has 42 larger-than-average rooms complete with small kitchenettes. The bathrooms have been updated, while the rooms have a slightly dated look. This hotel is a two-minute walk to the Flower Market and a five-minute walk to Rembrandtplein (breakfast extra, by the university at Nieuwe Doelenstraat 5, +31 20 524 6800, www.lecoin.nl, hotel@lecoin.nl).

€€€ Hotel Nes is a well-located, functional-but-bland hotel that often books up far in advance. The 39 rooms are tight but have modern fixtures; some come with canal views (breakfast extra, family rooms, Kloveniersburgwal 137, +31 20 624 4773, www.hotelnes.nl, info@hotelnes.nl, Rick).

Southwest Amsterdam

NEAR VONDELPARK AND MUSEUMPLEIN

These options cluster around Vondelpark in a safe neighborhood. Though they don’t have romantic Old Dutch flavor, they’re reasonable values and only a short walk or tram ride from the action. Many are in a pleasant nook between rollicking Leidseplein and the park, and most are a 5-to-15-minute walk to the Rijks and Van Gogh museums. They easily connect with Centraal station by tram #2 or #12.

€€€ Hotel Fita has 21 bright, spacious rooms in a great location—100 yards from the Van Gogh Museum; a one-minute walk from the tram stop—on a pleasant corner with a grade school’s lively recess yard filling a traffic-free street. The style is modern yet rustic, with minimalist furniture and nice extras, including espresso machines in every room. It’s conscientiously run by Aleksandra, who offers a friendly welcome and many nice extras (free breakfast when you book direct, air-con on upper floors, free laundry service, bike rental, honesty bar, Jan Luijkenstraat 37, +31 20 679 0976, https://fita.nl, info@fita.nl).

€€€ Bed & Breakfast Amsterdam is run by a friendly Englishwoman, Karen, and her Dutch husband, Paul. They have a double with a garden patio, and a suite for up to four with a balcony, kitchenette, and canal views. It’s clean, white, and bright, with wood floors (fridge can be stocked with breakfast foods for a fee, no shoes, no elevator but not many stairs; south end of Vondelpark at Sloterkade 65, 7-minute walk from tram stop, +31 6 5109 7663, www.bedandbreakfastamsterdam.net, rooms@bedandbreakfastamsterdam.net).

€€€ Hotel Alexander is a modern 35-room hotel on a quiet street. Some of the rooms overlook the garden patio out back. If you’re looking for a smart, clean, relaxed place, this is it (breakfast extra, family room, Vondelstraat 44, +31 20 589 4020, www.hotelalexander.nl, info@hotelalexander.nl).

€€€ Catalonia Vondel Amsterdam, the only Amsterdam outpost of a chain with hotels in Europe and Latin America, features crisp, modern decor spread across seven century-old buildings. The atmosphere feels both high end and impersonal, with 83 rooms, three apartments, a bar, and a breakfast buffet catering to various diets (breakfast extra, air-con, Vondelstraat 26, +31 20 612 0120, www.cataloniahotels.com/en/hotel/catalonia-vondel-amsterdam, booking@cataloniahotels.com).

€€ XO Hotel Van Gogh enjoys a prime Museumplein location. A block from the Van Gogh Museum, this is a no-frills hotel that nonetheless provides nice touches, like wall-size paintings and rental bikes (breakfast extra, family rooms, air-con, Van de Veldestraat 5, +31 2026 9200, www.hotelvangogh.nl, info@hotelvangogh.nl).

IN THE SOUTHERN CANAL BELT

€€ The Weavery is a delightful B&B run by warm and capable Bettina and her family. They have two suites: a simpler, more affordable basement room; and a chirpy attic room, accessed by several steep and narrow steps, with air-con. There’s no breakfast, but each unit has a basic kitchenette, and Bettina is a font of suggestions and good conversation (cash or app payment only, 2e Weteringdwarsstraat 67, +31 6 2412 6530, www.the-weavery.com, info@the-weavery.com).

€€ Wildervanck B&B, run by Helene and Sjoerd Wildervanck, offers two tastefully decorated rooms in an elegant 17th-century canal house. If you want to meet a friendly Dutch family, this is the place. The location has a lot to offer, since it’s near the lively Leidseplein, within walking distance of major museums, and steps off the tram line (2-night minimum, cash or bank transfer only, breakfast in their pleasant dining room, just west of Leidsestraat at Keizersgracht 498, +31 20 623 3846, www.wildervanck.com, info@wildervanck.com).

Hostels

Amsterdam has a world of good, cheap hostels located throughout the city. Most are designed for the party crowd, but here are two quieter options, both ¢.

In Vondelpark: Although it’s one of Amsterdam’s top hostels for the under-25 set, Stayokay Vondelpark (IYHF) feels comfortable for all ages (some doubles, family rooms, lots of school groups, bike rental; right on Vondelpark at Zandpad 5—see the “Southwest Amsterdam Hotels and Restaurants” map, earlier; +31 20 589 8996, www.stayokay.com, vondelpark@stayokay.com). Though Stayokay Vondelpark is generally booked long in advance, a few beds occasionally open up each day at 11:00.

Farther East: While it’s away from the center, at Stayokay Oost (IYHF) you have all the modern services, and you’re just 15 minutes from Damrak street by tram or bike. Oldsters fit in here with the youngsters (games, restaurant, bike rental; from Amsterdam Centraal station take bus #22, direction: de Indische Buurt, to the Javaplein stop and walk to Timorplein 21, see the map on here, +31 20 551 3190, www.stayokay.com, amsterdamoost@stayokay.com).