PRACTICALITIES

Travel Tips

Money

PLASTIC VERSUS CASH

BEFORE YOU GO

IN EUROPE

TIPPING

GETTING A VAT REFUND

CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS

Sightseeing

MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS

PLAN AHEAD

RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES

AT SIGHTS

Sleeping

RATES AND DEALS

TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS

Eating

RESTAURANT PRICING AND HOURS

BREAKFAST

LUNCH AND DINNER

BEVERAGES

DESSERTS AND SWEETS

Staying Connected

USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE

MAIL

Transportation

TRAINS

Map: Public Transportation

BUSES

BOATS

TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES

Map: Key Driving & Ferry Routes

RENTING A CAR

FLIGHTS

Resources from Rick Steves

This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.

Travel Tips

Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, at Travel.State.gov (US State Department travel pages) and CDC.gov (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention). The US embassy websites for each country are another good source of information (see later).

While most countries no longer require proof of Covid-19 vaccination for entry, some sights or tours may still have vaccination requirements (check websites). Even if it’s not required for your itinerary, it’s smart to pack a copy of your vaccine record and/or store a photo of your Covid-19 vaccine card on your phone.

ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering Scandinavia and other Schengen Zone countries (quick and easy process). For the latest, check https://travel-europe.europa.eu/etias_en.

Tourist Information: National tourist websites can be a wealth of information. Begin your Scandinavian travel planning at VisitDenmark.com, VisitNorway.com, VisitSweden.com, VisitFinland.com, and VisitEstonia.com.

Once in Scandinavia, a good first stop in every town is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). You’ll find Scandinavian TIs are usually well organized and always have an English-speaking staff. TIs are in business to help you spend money in their town—which can color their advice—but I still swing by to pick up a city map and get info on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife.

Emergency and Medical Help: In most countries in this book, dial 112 for any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire (operators typically speak English). The exception is Norway, where you’ll dial 112 for police, 110 for fire, and 113 for an ambulance. If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.

Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen items, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For help with a lost phone, see “Damage Control for Lost Phones” on here. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.

US Embassies and Consulates: Embassies are located in all the capital cities. Passport services are by appointment. Embassies are closed on national holidays in the US and the host country.

Denmark: Dag Hammarskjölds Allé 24, Copenhagen, Mon-Fri 8:30-17:00, +45 33 41 71 00, https://dk.usembassy.gov

Norway: Morgedalsvegen 36, Oslo, Mon-Fri 8:30-13:30, +47 21 30 85 40, https://no.usembassy.gov [URL inactive]

Sweden: Dag Hammarskjölds Väg 31, Stockholm, Mon-Fri 8:00-16:30, +46 8 783 5300, https://se.usembassy.gov

Finland: Itäinen Puistotie 14B, Helsinki, by appointment only, +358 9 616 250 (select 0), https://fi.usembassy.gov

Estonia: Kentmanni 20, Tallinn, Mon-Fri 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00, info +372 668 8100, after-hours emergency +372 509 2129 or +372 668 8169, https://ee.usembassy.gov

Canadian Embassies: Canadian consular services are by appointment only. For after-hours emergencies, call Ottawa collect +1 613 996 8885.

Denmark: Kristen Bernikowsgade 1, Copenhagen, Mon-Fri 8:30-12:00 & 13:00-16:30, +45 33 48 32 00, www.denmark.gc.ca

Norway: Wergelandsveien 7, Oslo, Mon-Fri 8:30-12:30 & 13:00-16:30, +47 22 99 53 00, www.norway.gc.ca

Sweden: Klarabergsgatan 23 (6th floor), Stockholm, Mon-Fri 9:00-12:00 & 13:00-17:00, +46 8 453 3000, www.sweden.gc.ca

Finland: Pohjoisesplanadi 25B, Helsinki, Mon-Fri 8:30-12:00 & 13:00-16:30, +358 9 228 530, www.finland.gc.ca

Estonia: Toom-Kooli 13, Tallinn, Mon-Fri 8:30-17:00, +372 627 3311, https://www.international.gc.ca

Time Zones: Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, like most of continental Europe, are generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. Finland and Estonia are one hour ahead of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).

Business Hours: Shops generally open at 10:00 and close between 17:00 and 20:00 on weekdays; bigger stores and malls tend to stay open later, while smaller stores and shops in smaller towns may have shorter hours. On Sundays banks and most shops are closed, and public transportation options are generally fewer. Many museums in Scandinavia are closed on Mondays.

Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and appliances (hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.

Rip Up This Book! Turn chapters into mini guidebooks: Break the book’s spine and use a utility knife to slice apart chapters, keeping gummy edges intact. Reinforce the chapter spines with clear wide tape; use a heavy-duty stapler; or make or buy a cheap cover (see the Travel Store at RickSteves.com), swapping out chapters as you travel.

Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 65 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only to European citizens. Note that liberal Scandinavia is Europe’s most generous corner when it comes to youth discounts—children usually sightsee for half-price or free.

Online Translation Tips: The Google Translate app converts spoken or typed English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera. Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com and DeepL.com are also handy.

Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint when traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them) and turn the air-conditioning off when you leave the room. Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, see RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.

Money

Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Scandinavia. I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.

Credit Card: For all intents and purposes, Scandinavia has gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big (hotels, advance tickets) and small (little shops, food stands). A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is widely accepted and simple to use.

Backup Card: Some travelers carry a second card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.

Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency.

PLASTIC VERSUS CASH

Scandinavians almost never use cash; they pay with plastic even for small purchases such as parking meters, bus tickets, and market stalls. Don’t bother withdrawing any local cash from an ATM; it’s possible to get through an entire Scandinavian trip without it. Most merchants prefer plastic, and you’ll scramble to spend unused cash at the end of your trip. It’s bothersome to exchange Scandinavian currency back to dollars even in Scandinavia, and difficult (with punishing rates) outside the country.

In Scandinavia, I use my credit card exclusively, for everything from hotel reservations and car rentals to everyday expenses such as meals, gas, parking, and sightseeing. While you could use your debit card for some of these expenses, keep in mind that you have greater fraud protection with your credit card. The card you use may depend on which one charges the lowest international transaction fees.

BEFORE YOU GO

Know your cards. For credit cards, Visa and Mastercard are universal while American Express and Discover are less common. US debit cards with a Visa or Mastercard logo will work in any European ATM.

Go “contactless.” Contactless pay options are now standard in much of Europe. Check to see if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines) and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section for details). Both options are more secure than a physical credit card: Instead of recording your credit card number, a one-time encrypted “token” enables the purchase and expires shortly afterward.

Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.

Report your travel dates. Some banks want to know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards overseas, specifically when and where you’re headed. Depending on your bank, you can do this either online or over the phone.

Find out about fees. For any purchase made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or Mastercard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). Shop around; you can compare credit cards on BankRate.com. Some cards offer lower international fees than others—and some don’t charge any at all. If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new card. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.

IN EUROPE

Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps

Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: These cards have the usual chip and/or magnetic stripe, but with the addition of a contactless symbol. Simply tap your card against a contactless reader to complete a transaction—no PIN or signature required (except in some cases as a security measure for larger purchases). This is by far the easiest way to pay and is available throughout Scandinavia. Some small businesses (such as market stalls or food stands) accept only tap cards; city buses typically accept tap cards or, in rare cases, exact change.

Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. To pay, hold your phone near a contactless reader; you may need to verify the transaction with a face scan, fingerprint scan, or passcode. If you’ve arrived in Europe without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone to work in this way.

Will My US Card Work? Usually, yes. On rare occasions, you may run into a situation where your card doesn’t work. This is most likely at self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks, tollbooths, or fuel pumps). Usually a tap-to-pay card does the trick in these situations. Drivers should be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. (In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card).

Always Choose to Pay in the Local Currency: During a credit card transaction, the payment terminal will often ask whether you want to pay in US dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While this “service”—called Dynamic Currency Conversion (DCC)—offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate and/or higher fees, and you’ll wind up losing money.

Security Tips

Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your passport and backup cards secure in your money belt, and carry one card in your front pocket or wallet.

Don’t use a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.

To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).

Damage Control for Lost Cards

If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to your bank (using a secure app) or the following global customer-assistance centers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), Mastercard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111).

You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see RickSteves.com/help for more).

If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.

TIPPING

Tipping in Scandinavia isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.

Restaurants: You don’t need to tip if you order your food at a counter. At restaurants with a wait staff, it’s common to tip by rounding up (about 5-10 percent) for a good meal. When paying with a credit card, you can ask the server to add a tip to your card. (You won’t get a printed receipt with a “tip line” like back home; rather, servers hand you the credit card terminal, and you punch in a new total with your desired tip.)

Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is 85 DKK, pay 90 DKK). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.

Services: For local guides, private drivers, or others who spend several hours with you, and significantly improve the quality of your trip, a healthy tip (of around 10 percent) is not extravagant. In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a good job for you, a small tip of a crown/euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.

GETTING A VAT REFUND

Wrapped into the purchase price of your Scandinavian souvenirs is a value-added tax (VAT) of 20-25 percent (among the highest rates in Europe). You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than a certain amount (300 DKK in Denmark, 315 NOK in Norway, 200 SEK in Sweden, €40 in Finland, and €38 in Estonia) at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme (look for signs in store windows—VAT is called MVA in Norway; MOMS in Denmark, Finland, and Sweden; and käibemaks or km in Estonia). Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)

Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.

At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Europe.

At the Border or Airport: If you’ve made purchases in Denmark, Sweden, Finland, and/or Estonia, process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds (allow plenty of extra time to deal with this process and have your purchased items easily accessible for inspection). If you’ve shopped hard in Norway (a non-EU country), get your document(s) stamped at your point of departure from Norway.

At some airports, you’ll go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. Elsewhere, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing, or you may be able to do it at a self-validation kiosk. (Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee, but you’re paying for the convenience of receiving your money as a credit to your card). Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant.

CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS

You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).

To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).

For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit Help.cbp.gov.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Scandinavia’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.

MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS

Your best navigation tool is on your phone. Google Maps (and similar mapping apps) offers turn-by-turn directions for walking and driving, as well as detailed public transit instructions in most big cities. Simply plug in a destination and instantly get detailed directions for reaching it on foot or by subway, bus, or tram—including where to catch it, how long it takes, where to get off, and how far you’ll walk at the other end.

To conserve data, most mapping apps let you download maps in advance (do this when you’re on strong Wi-Fi). However, offline maps may not include every feature (most in-city public transit navigation doesn’t work offline). For more on how to get online with your phone during your trip, see here.

For offline navigation, the maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Europe, simple paper maps are generally free at TIs and hotels; maps with more detail are sold at newsstands and bookstores.

For help with the Scandinavian terms you’ll see on maps and signs as you travel, see the “Useful Topographical Words” sidebar on here.

PLAN AHEAD

Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see this book’s “At a Glance” sidebars for Copenhagen, Oslo, Bergen, Stockholm, Helsinki, and Tallinn.

Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Opening days and hours can fluctuate; confirm the latest with the TI or at the sight’s official website (listed throughout this book).

Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.

Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.

If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.

Study up. To get the most out of the sight descriptions in this book, read them before your visit.

RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES

Many popular sights in Europe come with long ticket-buying lines. Visitors who buy tickets online in advance (or who have a museum pass covering key sights) can skip the line and waltz right in. Advance tickets are generally timed-entry, meaning you’re guaranteed admission on a certain date and time.

For some sights, buying ahead is required (tickets aren’t sold at the sight and it’s the only way to get in). At other sights, buying ahead is recommended to skip the line and save time. And for many sights, advance tickets are available but unnecessary: At these uncrowded sights you can simply arrive, buy a ticket, and go in.

Don’t confuse the reservation options: available, recommended, and required. Use my advice in this book as a guide. Note any must-see sights that sell out long in advance and be prepared to buy tickets early. If you do your research, you’ll know the smart strategy.

Given how precious your vacation time is, I’d book in advance both where it’s required (as soon as your dates are firm) and where it will save time in a long line (in some cases, you can do this even on the day you plan to visit).

You’ll generally be emailed a digital ticket with a code that you’ll store on your phone to scan at the entrance (if you prefer, you can print it out). At the sight, look for the ticket-holders line rather than the ticket-buying line; you may still have to wait in a security line.

Sightseeing Passes: Some cities offer sightseeing passes that include free or discounted admission to several sights. Do the math to determine if a sightseeing pass makes sense for your visit. Even with a sightseeing pass, you’ll often still need to make reservations for the most popular sights.

AT SIGHTS

Here’s what you can typically expect:

Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.

Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check day packs and coats. (If you’d rather not check your day pack, try carrying it tucked under your arm as you enter.)

Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.

Audioguides and Apps: Some sights offer audio tours in English. Often you’ll use free Wi-Fi to scan a QR code and access the tour on your phone (some can be downloaded in advance—smart if you’re worried about connectivity); less frequently you’ll borrow or rent a device preloaded with the audio content at the museum. Bring your own plug-in earbuds to enjoy better sound (with a splitter, two can often share one rented device).

Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.

Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy and air-conditioned places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.

Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.

Sleeping

Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to sightseeing.

My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for Scandinavian traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and a fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.

Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in Scandinavia.

Some people make reservations a few days ahead as they travel. This approach fosters spontaneity, and booking sites make it easy to find available rooms, but—especially during busy times—you run the risk of settling for lesser-value accommodations.

RATES AND DEALS

I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant. City taxes, which can vary from place to place, are generally insignificant (a few dollars per person, per night).

Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking hotel websites and booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself, by phone, email, or on the hotel’s website. This increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). When you book direct, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites—in exchange, ask if they can give you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included).

Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this book by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show it upon arrival, and sometimes stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.

TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS

Accommodations in Scandinavia are fairly expensive, but normally very comfortable and usually come with a generous breakfast. When budgeting, plan on spending about $200-250 per hotel double in big cities, and $150-200 in smaller towns. Money-conscious travelers should consider doubles in hostels and rooms in simple hotels with shared baths—a respectable option in clean and wholesome Scandinavia.

Hotels

Check hotel websites for deals. When a classy, modern $200 place has a $150 special that includes two $10 buffet breakfasts, a dumpy $100 hotel room without breakfast becomes less exciting.

Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.

Some modern Scandinavian hotels offer “combi” rooms with either two narrow twin beds or one twin and a sofa that converts to a bed. These are generally cheaper than a full double.

Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.

Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. If stairs are unavoidable, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up.

Most European countries require hotels to collect your name, nationality, and passport number. At check-in, the receptionist might ask for your passport and may keep it for several hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to give them instead.

If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.

In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV and free Wi-Fi, which can vary in strength and quality. Simpler or characteristic places rarely have a TV or room phone.

Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it’s smart to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in.

Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.

Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets gurgle and smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.

If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I rarely bother to use one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.

For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.

Short-Term Rentals

A short-term rental—whether an apartment, a house, or a room in a private residence—is a popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.

Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.

Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and VRBO let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com and RentaVilla.com can provide a more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive).

Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to public transportation, and how well connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-con, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.

Think about the kind of experience you want: just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self check-in and minimal contact; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.

Confirming and Paying: Many places require payment in full before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).

Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place for several nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or rental house. These can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.

Rooms in Private Homes: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some are interested in getting to know the travelers who pass through their home.

Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com.

Hostels

Scandinavian hostels are among Europe’s finest. A hostel provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for usually under $50 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Family and private rooms are often available.

Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share a booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.

Camping

Scandinavian campgrounds are practical, comfortable, and economical. This is the middle-class Scandinavian family way to travel: safe, great social fun, and no reservation problems. Campgrounds are friendly, more central and convenient than rustic, and rarely full. Dedicated campers should look into the “Camping Key Europe” card (about $20), which offers discounts on stays throughout Europe. Buy the card at the first campground you visit or through CampingKeyEurope.com.

The national tourist office websites have campground listings, but for more comprehensive guides, visit these websites: Camping.se (Sweden), Camping.dk (Denmark), and Camping.no (Norway). You’ll find campgrounds just about everywhere you need them.

Many campgrounds also offer camping cottages (stugor) or huts (hytter) for wannabe campers with no gear. These normally sleep four to six in bunk beds and come with blankets and a kitchenette. The toilet and shower may be in a nearby shared washhouse. Increasingly, you can find nicer, more modern, more private camping cabins with an en suite bathroom; these work especially well for families. Because locals typically move in for a week or two, many campground huts are booked for summer long in advance. In expensive Norway, camping cabins can be a rustic, memorable, and far more affordable alternative to a pricey hotel...and many are in scenic locations. At more traditional places, you may be charged extra for sheets and/or cleaning at the end of your stay.

Eating

For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not one obviously catering to tourists. Venturing even a block or two from the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.

Most Scandinavian nations have one hard-to-appreciate staple that is cherished with a patriotic sentimentality. These dishes, which often originated during a famine, now remind the young of their ancestors’ suffering. Norway’s penitential food, lutefisk (dried cod marinated for days in lye and water), is used for Christmas and for jokes. Swedes and Norwegians make pickled herring the centerpiece of any buffet (pickling was the best way to preserve the abundant fish back in the Middle Ages). And Finns go for kalakukko—a fish-and-bacon hand pie, a convenient portable lunch back in the day.

Nowadays, contemporary Scandinavian cuisine takes full advantage of its traditional local ingredients, emphasizing fresh seafood, hearty grains, seasonal berries, and sturdy root vegetables. Using pure, fresh ingredients—often foraged locally—and innovative preparations, Scandinavia’s chefs are piling up well-deserved accolades. The shorthand for this philosophy is “New Nordic”—popularized by René Redzepi, chef/owner of the world-famous (and soon-to-be-closed) Noma restaurant in Copenhagen—which is now embraced by restaurants at every price point.

For more on Norwegian cuisine, see here; for Swedish specialties, see here.

RESTAURANT PRICING AND HOURS

I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.

The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a taste of the local cuisine at a reasonable price.

Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries typically come with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and refined cuisine. Note that in expensive Scandinavian cities, you may pay splurge prices for even more casual meals.

Most of my restaurant listings are open daily for lunch and dinner; I’ve noted exceptions.

BREAKFAST

The vast breakfast buffet that comes with most hotel rooms is a great way to stock up on calories for a busy day of sightseeing. Plenty of local treats show up on the breakfast table: various herring dishes, hearty breads and crackers, and rich, sweet goat cheese.

You’ll also find fruit, cereal, and various milks (look for words like skummet for skim, let/lavt for low-fat, sød/hel for whole). Grab a drinkable yogurt and go local by pouring it in the bowl and sprinkling your cereal over it. The great selection of breads and crackers comes with jam, butter (smør), margarine (same word), and cheese (ost). And you’ll get an array of cold cuts, pickled herring, caviar paste (in a squeeze tube), and boiled eggs (bløt/blød is soft-boiled; hård is hard-boiled); use the egg cups and small spoons provided to eat your soft-boiled egg Scandinavian-style.

The brown cheese with the texture of earwax and a slightly sweet taste is called geitost/gede ost (“goat cheese”) or brunost (“brown cheese”). Most common in Norway, it’s not really a cheese—it’s made from boiled-down, slightly caramelized (brown and sweet) whey mixed with goat or cow’s milk. Give this odd but enjoyable dairy product a try—it’s a tasty topping on traditional heart-shaped waffles, or it goes well on a slice of rustic bread with a little butter and/or jam. Swedes prefer a spreadable variety called messmör.

LUNCH AND DINNER

Scandinavians, not big on lunch, often just grab a sandwich and a cup of coffee at their work desk. Sandwiches are something of an art form in Scandinavia. Especially in Denmark, you’ll find smørrebrød shops turning out tempting open-face sandwiches. These delights taste as good as they look. My favorite is the one piled high with little shrimp (mej reje/med räkor). The roast beef (roastbeef/rostbiff) is good, too. And don’t be afraid to give herring (sild/sill) a try. Shops will wrap sandwiches up for a perfect picnic in a nearby park.

The largest meal of the Nordic day is dinner. At restaurants, many menus list small and large plates. Because portions tend to be large, choosing a small plate or splitting a large one makes some otherwise pricey options reasonable. Remember that taxes and the tip are included in menu prices—so a $40 Scandinavian meal is not that much more than a $30 American meal. You’ll notice that even in fine restaurants, many locals just drink free tap water (for more on beverages, see next section).

The all-you-can-eat Scandinavian smorgasbord is not to be missed. For tips on navigating this epic buffet, see here.

Tipping: Tipping in restaurants is not an established practice in Scandinavia. A service charge is typically included in your bill, and you aren’t expected to leave an additional tip. But if you enjoy great service and want to show your appreciation, round up the bill (about 5-10 percent of the total check). You can tip in cash if you have some on hand, or you can ask to add a tip to your credit card payment (the server will give you the payment terminal, and you can punch in a new total that includes the tip).

Budget Tips

Fortunately, there are plenty of strategies for stretching your food budget while on the road in expensive Scandinavia. Most towns and cities offer a range of basic eateries, and while cafeterias, street stands, and to-go meals are not high cuisine, they’re undeniably cheap. Here are some tips to help you eat inexpensively.

If your hotel offers breakfast—even if they charge for it—take advantage of this option; these hotel breakfasts are often a better deal than buying breakfast around town. And while it’s bad form to take freebies from the breakfast buffet to eat later, many hotels will provide you with the wrappings to pack yourself a lunch, legitimately, for $13-15. Ask for a “packed lunch”—madpakke (Danish) matpakke (Norwegian), or packad lunch (Swedish).

If you want to enjoy a combination of picnics and restaurant meals on your trip, you’ll save money by eating in restaurants at lunch (when there’s usually a special, and food is generally cheaper) and picnicking for dinner. Many restaurants offer cheap daily (dagens) lunch specials and buffets to entice office workers. In Sweden, for lunch, look for restaurant signs offering a dagens rätt or dagens lunch. These daily specials typically get you a main dish, salad, bread, coffee, and water.

Picnic as much as possible. Basements of big department stores have huge, first-class supermarkets with lots of alternatives to sandwiches for picnic dinners. Or explore your options at market stalls and takeaway delis. Samples of picnic treats: Wasa cracker breads (the rye “Sport” flavor is my favorite), packaged meat and cheese, brown “goat cheese” (geitost), drinkable yogurt, smoked fish from markets, fresh fruit and vegetables, lingonberries, squeeze tubes of sandwich spreads (from mustard and mayo to shrimp and caviar), rye bread, and boxes of juice and milk. Grab a park bench or waterside perch, relax, and enjoy.

BEVERAGES

Scandinavia’s heavily taxed wine, beer, and spirits can put a dent in your vacation budget. In Sweden and Norway, spirits, wine, and strong beer (more than 3.5 percent alcohol) are sold in state-run liquor stores: Systembolaget in Sweden, and Vinmonopolet in Norway. Buying a beer or glass of wine in a bar or restaurant in Sweden or Norway is particularly expensive. Therefore, many Scandinavians will have a drink or a glass of wine at home (or in their hotel room) before going out, then limit themselves to one or two glasses at the restaurant. If taking an overnight cruise during your trip, you can get a good deal on a bottle of wine or spirits in the onboard duty-free shop.

Liquor laws and prices are more relaxed in Denmark, where you can buy wine, beer, and spirits at any supermarket or corner store. Public drinking is acceptable in Denmark, while it is illegal (although often done) in Norway and Sweden.

Some local specialties are akvavit (also called akevitt or aquavit), a strong, vodka-like spirit distilled from grains or potatoes and infused with dill, caraway, or other herbs and spices—then drunk ice-cold in Sweden and Denmark, and room temperature in Norway. Lakka is a syrupy-sweet liqueur made from cloudberries, the small orange berries grown in the Arctic (popular in Norway, Sweden, and Finland). Salmiakka is a nearly black, licorice-flavored liqueur (Finland, Norway, and Denmark). Gammel Dansk can be described as Danish bitters for the adventurous (Denmark only).

In Norway, hard cider now can be sold directly by the producer—spurring a new craft-cider trend nationwide (see the sidebar on here).

DESSERTS AND SWEETS

Scandinavians love sweets. A meal is not complete without a little treat and a cup of coffee at the end. Bakeries fill their window cases with all varieties of cakes, tarts, cookies, and pastries. The most popular ingredients are marzipan, almonds, hazelnuts, chocolate, and fresh berries. Many cakes are covered with entire sheets of solid marzipan. To find the neighborhood bakery, just look for a golden pretzel—the classic Scandinavian symbol for a bakery—hanging above the door or windows.

For a classic Danish dessert, try rødgrød med fløde—red berries (traditionally red currants) with cream. Swedes go for kladdkaka, a rich chocolate cake that’s gooey inside but crisp on the outside. Norwegians dig into fyrstekake, a fragrant tart that sandwiches cardamon-scented almond paste in a buttery dough. The Finns make a variation on those same flavors in the cylinder-shaped Runebergstårta, or Runeberg torte, named for a revered Finnish poet. In Estonia, desserts often feature curd cheese, as in the popular kohupiimakreem, a pudding-like mix of the cheese, sugar, vanilla, and cream.

Scandinavian chocolate is some of the best in Europe. In Denmark, seek out Anthon Berg’s dark chocolate and marzipan treats, as well as Toms’ chocolate-covered caramels (Toms Guld are the best). Sweden’s biggest chocolate producer, Marabou, makes huge bars of solid milk chocolate, as well as some with dried fruits or nuts. Daim are milk chocolate-covered hard toffees, sold in a variety of sizes, from large bars to bite-size pieces, all in bright red wrappers. The Freia company, Norway’s chocolate goddess (named for the Norse goddess Freya), makes a wonderful assortment of delights, from Et lite stykke Norge (“A little piece of Norway”) bars of creamy milk chocolate (melkesjokolade) in pale yellow wrapping and Smil (chocolate-covered soft caramels sold in rolls) to Firkløver (milk chocolate bars with hazelnuts) and the venerable Kvikk Lunsj, similar to a Kit Kat bar. For those who can’t decide on one type, the company sells bags of assorted chocolates called Twist and red gift boxes of pricey chocolates called Kong Haakon, named after Norway’s first king.

While chocolate rules, licorice and gummy candies are also popular. Black licorice (lakrits/lakris/lakrids) is at its best here—although saltlakrits (salty licorice) is not for the timid. Black licorice flavors everything from ice cream to chewing gum to liqueur. Throughout Scandinavia, you’ll find stores selling all varieties of candy in bulk. Fill your bag with a variety of candies and pay by the gram. Look around at the customers in these stores...they aren’t all children.

Staying Connected

A mobile device is an indispensable tool for efficient travel, and one with an international data plan is increasingly necessary as public-transit tickets, reservations for sights, and museum audioguides move to QR-code and app-based systems. Fortunately, staying connected in Europe gets less complicated (and less expensive) each year. You can use your devices much like you do at home, by either getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.

USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE

Here are some budget tips and options.

Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers unlimited text and low-speed data, plus reasonable per-minute voice calls).

Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public transit hubs, and airports, and aboard trains and buses.

Hurdling the Language Barrier

Though each of the Scandinavian countries has its own language, Danish, Norwegian, and Swedish are so closely related that locals can laugh at each other’s TV comedies. Danes and Norwegians can read each other’s newspapers and can converse somewhat (but with difficulty because of thick accents). Swedes, whose written language is different, have a hard time with printed Danish and Norwegian, but can carry on simple conversations in those languages. Finns (whose language is not related at all) learn Swedish in school, thanks to Sweden’s long historical presence in Finland. Estonian is similar to Finnish. If there’s ever a language barrier, though, most Scandinavians can easily revert to their common second language—English.

For travelers to Scandinavia, English is all you need; it seems every well-educated Scandinavian speaks it. Still, knowing a few key words in the language of the country you are visiting is good style and helpful.

These languages add a few extra letters (Æ, Ø, Ö, Å, Ä) that affect pronunciation—and also alphabetizing. If you can’t find, say, Årjäng in a map index, look after Z. Finnish and Estonian are related and vastly different from the other Scandinavian languages; in fact, Finnish has more in common with Hungarian than with Swedish.

Here are a few Swedish, Norwegian, and/or Danish words you’ll see and hear a lot: hej/hei (hi), tack/takk/tak (thanks), gammal/gammel (old), litten/litt/lille (small), stor (big), slott/slot (palace), centrum/sentrum (center), gata/gate/gade (street), and öl/øl (beer).

You’ll find a longer list of survival phrases in the introductory chapters for each country in this book. Give it your best shot. The locals will appreciate your efforts.

Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. Turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) only when you can’t find Wi-Fi.

Save large-data tasks for Wi-Fi. If your included data is slow or metered, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype or FaceTime, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.

Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off.

Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, FaceTime, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. WhatsApp is especially popular with Europeans and is often the easiest way to communicate with guides, drivers, or other local contacts.

Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls, need a local phone number, or your provider’s international data rates are expensive, consider getting a European SIM card to replace the one in your (unlocked) device. SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters and some newsstands (you may need to show your passport), and vending machines. If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop. Some newer devices may also allow you to download an eSIM from an international provider. There are generally no roaming charges when using a European SIM card in other EU countries, but confirm when you buy.

Damage Control for Lost Phones: Losing your phone can be a significant inconvenience. Before you leave home, make sure your device is set up for automatic cloud backups, and enable the “find my phone” feature (make sure you have access to it from another device, like your travel partner’s phone or a laptop). Familiarize yourself with your phone’s “lost and lock” mode, which you should enable from another device if your phone goes missing. Report the loss to your mobile carrier; if your phone remains lost, use the “wipe” feature to erase its data.

MAIL

For details on sending packages to your own home or to others, visit CBP.gov, then select “Travel” and “Know Before You Go.” The postal service works fine throughout Scandinavia, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com).

Transportation

Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains, buses, and boats are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers, and those who want to leave the driving to others. Short-hop flights within Europe can creatively connect the dots. Be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city; with trains and buses, you’re at the mercy of a timetable; flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport and leaves a larger carbon footprint.

If your itinerary mixes cities and countryside, my advice is to connect cities by train (or bus) and to explore rural areas by rental car. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.

TRAINS

With a few exceptions, trains cover my recommended Scandinavian destinations wonderfully.

To study schedules and prices in advance, check Bahn.com (Germany’s excellent Europe-wide timetable). You’ll also find fares, timetable information, and online booking at DSB.dk or Rejseplanen.dk (Denmark), Vy.no or Entur.no (Norway), SJ.se (Sweden), VR.fi (Finland), and Elron.ee (Estonia).

When boarding a train, especially in Denmark, don’t assume the entire train is going where you want to go. On some routes, part of the train may split off somewhere along the line and head in another direction. Announcements and train staff can help you make sure you’re in the right compartment.

Point-to-Point Tickets

The easiest way to buy most train tickets is online, through an app, or at stations from self-service kiosks. If you need help, tickets are sold at counters at bigger stations, but this can come with long lines and a surcharge. The cheapest tickets are advance purchase, nonchangeable, and nonrefundable.

Ticket Discounts: Advance booking for specific departures is the best way to save money on point-to-point tickets, especially for longer distances and faster trains in Norway, Sweden, and Finland (but discounts come with refund and exchange limitations). In these countries, discounted tickets go on sale three to four months ahead of travel dates (see websites, earlier). In Denmark, distances are shorter and standard tickets are more affordable, but discounts are available for those willing to lock in a departure time outside of rush hours (sold up to two months ahead).

Rail Pass or Point-to-Point Tickets?

Will you be better off buying a rail pass or point-to-point tickets? It pays to know your options and choose what’s best for your itinerary.

Rail Passes

A regional Eurail Scandinavia Pass lets you travel in Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Finland for three to eight days (consecutively or not) within a one-month period. In addition, single-country rail passes can be a solid value in all four countries. These countries are also covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass.

Discounted rates are offered for s eniors (age 60 and up) and youths (ages 12-27). Up to two kids (ages 4-11) can travel free with each adult-rate pass (but not with senior rates). All passes offer a choice of first or second class for all ages.

While most rail passes are delivered electronically, it’s smart to purchase your pass before your trip. For more on rail passes, including current prices and purchasing details, visit RickSteves.com/rail.

Point-to-Point Tickets

If you’re taking just a couple of train rides, buying individual point-to-point tickets may save you money over a pass. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.

Map shows approximate costs, in US dollars, for one-way, second-class tickets on faster trains.

In Norway, kids (ages 6-17) and seniors (age 67 and older) pay half the full fare on most trains (but not sleepers). In Sweden, kids (2-15) traveling with an adult pay only about 15 percent of the regular rate; youths (under 26) and seniors (65 or over) qualify for last-minute rates sold within 24 hours of departure. In Finland, kids (4-17) save 40 percent on most tickets and seniors (65 or over) save 20 percent. In Denmark, up to two kids ages 4–11 travel free with ticket-buying adults on most trains and those under 16 generally ride for half the adult fare.

Rail Passes

One of the great Nordic bargains, the Eurail Scandinavia pass is your best rail-pass deal for a trip through Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Finland. All Eurail passes allow up to two kids (ages 4-11) to travel free with an adult. Youth and senior discounts are available.

Those four countries are included in the Eurail Global pass, which covers most of Europe. Single-country Eurail passes are also available for Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Finland (and for Estonia and Latvia, but those countries are better traveled by bus).

For detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail-pass options for your train trip, visit RickSteves.com/rail.

Seat Reservations and Sleepers: Passes cover almost all trains in the region, though you’ll need paid seat reservations ($5–20) for many longer rides, express trains, and special routes such as the scenic Myrdal-Flåm portion of the Norway in a Nutshell route. If you’ll be taking a popular train on a busy day and want to be assured of having a seat, a reservation can be a good investment even if it’s not required.

Within tiny Denmark, reservations are rarely necessary. Some reservations aren’t available outside Europe, but generally trains don’t sell out terribly far in advance. You can usually arrange several reservations at your first train station.

Sleepers on night trains also cost extra. For instance, in Norway, the fee for a two-bed sleeper compartment is about $100 with a second-class rail pass; cheaper shared compartments are available in Sweden and Finland but not Norway.

The national railway websites may not process pass-holder reservations or accept US credit cards. As a workaround, try ordering by phone: Norway +47 61 05 19 10 (press 9 for English) or email tog@vy.no; Sweden +46 771 757 575 (press 7 for English); Denmark +45 70 13 14 18; Finland +358 923 192 90. International agents such as Rail Europe (see RickSteves.com/rail) or Eurail.com may have access to some but not all reservations in this region.

Boat Discounts with a Rail Pass: The Scandinavia and Global rail passes give you discounts on some boat tickets (such as Stockholm to Helsinki, Tallinn, and Riga) without requiring the use of a counted rail-pass travel day.

BUSES

Don’t overlook long-distance buses, which are usually slower but considerably cheaper than trains. Big bus carriers include Norway’s Nor-Way (www.nor-way.no) and Vy (www.vy.no/en), Sweden’s branch of Flixbus (www.flixbus.se) as well as Vy Bus4You (www.bus4you.se), and Finland’s Matkahuolto (www.matkahuolto.fi). Denmark is served by Flixbus www.flixbus.com)—but the train is nearly always the better option in Denmark. Estonia’s several carriers (Lux Express is the largest, www.luxexpress.eu) cover more destinations than the national railway; to check schedules and buy tickets for all Estonian bus service, see Tpilet.ee.

BOATS

Boats are romantic, scenic, and sometimes the most efficient—or only—way to link destinations in coastal Scandinavia. Boats can be more expensive than other options, although some international routes may be covered or discounted with a rail pass. Prices vary but are generally higher in summer and on weekends.

The main overnight links are Oslo to Copenhagen (www.dfds.com; see the Copenhagen chapter), Stockholm to Helsinki (www.sales.vikingline.com and www.tallinksilja.com; see the Helsinki chapter), and Stockholm to Tallinn (www.tallinksilja.com; see the Tallinn chapter). Advance reservations are recommended for overnight boats, especially in summer and on weekends.

Several companies speed between Helsinki and Tallinn in two to three hours (see the Tallinn chapter). It’s possible to connect Bergen or Kristiansand, Norway, with Hirtshals, Denmark, by ferry (www.fjordline.com [URL inactive] and www.colorline.com). Ferries are essential for hopping between the mainland and Scandinavia’s many islands, including Norway (see the Bergen and Setesdal Valley chapters), Stockholm’s archipelago, or Ærø in central Denmark (drivers should reserve online a month in advance, especially for weekends and in summer, foot/bike passengers should book no later than an hour in advance in summer; www.aeroe-ferry.dk). Boats are both a necessary and spectacular way to travel through Norway’s fjords or along its coast (www.fjordtours.no, www.fjord1.no). Bergen, in Norway, is a departure point for boats to the Arctic (www.hurtigruten.com; see the Bergen chapter).

TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES

Taxis in Scandinavia tend to be expensive. Since most cities have excellent public transportation, it’s best to avoid taxis unless you’re in a pinch.

Uber and other ride-booking apps operate in some Scandinavian cities, and rides can be cheaper than taxis. However, the details may differ from location to location. In some places, Uber works just like back home; in others, the app looks the same, but it hails a regular taxi rather than a private car. Uber is banned in some cities and countries, though sometimes similar companies operate where Uber cannot.

RENTING A CAR

It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (www.autoeurope.com—or the sometimes-cheaper www.autoeurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.

For a Scandinavian trip, renting a car for a short time in each country can work well. Use the car to explore the most interesting regions (such as Sweden’s Glass Country) and take the train to cover longer distances (connecting Copenhagen and Stockholm).

Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”

Rental Costs and Considerations

If you book well in advance, expect to pay roughly $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. To save money on fuel, request a diesel car.

Manual vs. Automatic: Cars with manual transmission are more common in Europe and generally cheaper than automatic. If you need an automatic, it’s wise to book well in advance. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.

Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car-rental websites.

Choosing Pick-up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.

Drop-Off Fees and Crossing Borders: Be aware that international trips—say, picking up in Copenhagen and dropping off in Oslo—can be expensive if the rental company assesses a drop-off fee for crossing a border. Even one-way rentals within a country can come with a hefty drop-off fee (especially in Norway); always check.

Tell your car-rental company exactly which countries you’ll be entering. Some companies levy extra insurance fees for trips taken in certain countries with certain cars (such as BMWs, Mercedes, and convertibles). Double-check with your rental agent that you have all the documentation you need before you drive off (especially if you’re crossing borders into non-Schengen countries, where you might need to present proof of insurance).

Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, GPS, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.

Car Insurance Options

When you rent a car in Europe the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (essentially “free,” but more complicated if you need to use it), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.

Basic CDW costs $15-30 a day and typically comes with $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).

If you opt for credit card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your card company about how it works. If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical choice. Both of these options are typically valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland and Italy.

For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.

Navigation Options

If you’ll be navigating using your phone, remember to bring a car charger. Most rental cars are equipped with a USB port so you can run your phone’s GPS through the dashboard display, but it can also be smart to bring a device mount.

Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—provide offline route directions, but you’ll need data access for current traffic.

GPS Devices: Most cars come with a dedicated GPS unit, though it’s sometimes an add-on cost (about $15-20/day). The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Make sure you know how to use the device—and that the language is set to English—before you drive off.

Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with GPS, I always have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone’s GPS stops working. It’s smart to buy a good map before you go, or pick one up at a local gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.

Driving

Except for the dangers posed by scenic distractions and moose crossings, Scandinavia is a great place to drive. But never drink and drive—even one drink can get a driver into serious trouble.

Road Rules: Seat belts are mandatory, and small children (generally, under 4.5 feet) need a child-safety seat. Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights at all times, and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the “International Travel” section at Travel.State.gov (enter a country in the “Learn About Your Destination” box, then select “Travel and Transportation”).

Fuel: Gas is expensive—often more than $8 per gallon. American “tap-to-pay” or contactless cards are generally accepted at staffed stations and should work at pay-at-the-pump stations. Carry more than one card just in case. Diesel rental cars are common; make sure you know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Some pumps are color-coded: Unleaded pumps are green and labeled “E” (or may be marked bensin); diesel pumps (often yellow or black) are labeled “B”.

On the Road: Roads are good (though nerve-rackingly skinny in western Norway). Signs and road maps are excellent. Local road etiquette is similar to that in the US. There are plenty of good facilities, gas stations, and scenic rest stops. Snow is a serious problem off-season in the mountains.

Tolls: You’ll encounter tolls on major bridges in Scandinavia. The most expensive (about $65) is the Øresund Bridge between Sweden and Denmark; other toll bridges include the Svinesund Bridge between Sweden and Norway (about $2) and the Storebælt Bridge between the Danish islands of Zealand and Funen (about $22). Cities such as Oslo, Bergen, and Stockholm charge tolls for entering the city center. Rental cars are typically equipped with devices to automatically collect tolls, which are then charged back to you via your rental company.

Ferries: Norway’s fjords are crisscrossed by slick ferries that depart frequently. For most short hops with a car, reservations are not needed (or even possible); just line up and wait. In most cases, the fare will be automatically charged to your credit card (similar to the toll system). There are a few exceptions: On certain popular, longer routes that double as sightseeing trips (such as Geiranger to Hellesylt on the Geirangerfjord or Kaupanger to Gudvangen via the Nærøyfjord, on the Sognefjord), you’ll want to reserve well ahead and pay online before arriving at the dock.

Parking: Parking on the street is a headache in major cities, where expensive garages are safe and plentiful. It’s usually a good strategy to park on the outskirts and take public transportation into city centers. Even in the Nordic countries, thieves break into cars. Park carefully, use the trunk, and show no valuables.

Signage: As you navigate, you’ll find town signs followed by the letters N, S, Ø (Ö in Sweden), V, or C. These stand for north (nord/norr), south (syd/sør/söder), east (øst/öst), west (vest/väst), and center (centrum/sentrum), respectively; understanding them will save you lots of wrong turns.

FLIGHTS

Copenhagen is usually the most direct and least expensive Scandinavian capital to fly into from the US. Copenhagen is also Europe’s gateway to Scandinavia from points south.

This book covers far-flung destinations separated by vast stretches of mountains and water. While boats and trains are more romantic, cheap flights can provide an affordable and efficient way to connect the dots on a Scandinavian itinerary.

To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: Easy-to-use Google Flights is the top site for flights to and within Europe, Kayak has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.

Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another.

Flights within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet or Ryanair. Options include Norwegian Airlines (hubs in Oslo and Bergen, www.norwegian.com), Widerøe (www.wideroe.no; connections throughout Norway and a few international destinations), and Finnair (www.finnair.com). Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and a larger carbon footprint than a train or bus.

Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).

Resources from Rick Steves

Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com

My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, beautiful photos, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and X.

Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/forums).

Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).

Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).

Rick Steves’ Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More

Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year about 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to book a tour, visit RickSteves.com or call us at +1 425 771 8303.

Books: This book is just one of many in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.

TV Shows and Video Library: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year. Watch full episodes for free (RickSteves.com/tv). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (Classroom.RickSteves.com).

Monday Night Travel Talks: To raise your travel I.Q., join our virtual travel party every Monday featuring Rick Steves guides discussing European destinations, art, culture, food, travel tips, and more. Join the live events or check out the video recordings (RickSteves.com/mnt).

Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced 60 free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, visit RickSteves.com/audioeurope.

Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.

Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a selection of video clips from my public television show, and video recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/podcasts).