Nothing is very far from Keswick and Derwentwater. Pick up a good map (any hotel can loan you one), get off the big roads, and leave the car, at least occasionally, for some walking. In summer, the Keswick-Ambleside-Windermere-Bowness corridor (A-591) suffers from congestion. Back lanes are far less trampled and lead you through forgotten villages where sheep outnumber people.

To rent a car here, try Enterprise in Penrith; you can arrange a pickup or drop-off in Keswick (closed Sat afternoon and all day Sun, reserve well in advance, Haweswater Road, +44 1768 216 440, enterprise.co.uk). Other car-rental branches are located in Carlisle, a bit to the north but well served by train (on the same Glasgow-Birmingham line as Penrith) and only a few minutes farther from the Keswick area.

Parking is tight throughout the region. It’s easiest to park in the many pay lots (most machines take cards, but have some coins handy just in case). Never park on double yellow lines.

Those based in Keswick without a car manage fine. Because of the region’s efforts to “green up” travel and cut down on car traffic, the bus service can be quite efficient for hiking and sightseeing. (Even with a car, consider leaving it in town and using the bus so that you’re not limited to round-trip hikes.)

By Bus: For bus schedules, look for the Lakes by Bus booklet (available at TIs or on any bus) or visit stagecoachbus.com and set your location for Keswick. Check the schedule carefully for last bus times. Keswick doesn’t have a proper bus station; buses stop at the busy but well-organized pullout at the big Booths supermarket at the edge of town (see “Arrival in Keswick,” later).

Bus Tickets and Passes: Any bus ride—no matter how short or long—costs £3 (pay driver, cards preferred). If planning to ride lots of buses, consider the North West Explorer pass, which covers unlimited rides on Stagecoach buses in the entire Lake District (£12/1 day, £26/3 days). In the South Lake District, the Central Lakes DayRider all-day ticket (£10) covers the area around Ambleside and Windermere (for example, the Lakesider bus #599). There are also Bus & Boat Explorer all-day passes combining unlimited bus rides with boat cruises on Derwentwater (£17.90) or Ullswater (£20).

Bus Routes: The frequencies noted are for high season (roughly April-Oct); in the peak of summer, many of these go more often, but most are reduced off-season (and, sometimes, on Sundays). Before venturing out, check for seasonal changes to these bus routes and their frequencies at stagecoachbus.com.

Buses #X4/#X5 connect Penrith train station to Keswick (2/hour, hourly on Sun, 40 minutes).

Bus #77/#77A, the Honister Rambler, runs seasonally, making the gorgeous circle from Keswick alongside Derwentwater, over Honister Pass, through Buttermere, and down the Whinlatter Valley (#77A 7-8/day clockwise, #77 4-5/day “anticlockwise,” 1.75-hour loop).

Bus #78, the Borrowdale Bus, goes topless in the summer for a wonderful sightseeing experience, heading from Keswick to Borrowdale Hotel, Grange Bridge, Rosthwaite, and Seatoller at the base of Honister Pass (1-2/hour, 30 minutes each way).

Bus #508 runs between Penrith and Ullswater, with several stops along the lake (Pooley Bridge at the northern tip, Aira Force waterfall trailhead, Glenridding for boat trips) before terminating at Patterdale Hotel (about hourly, half are open-top buses, 50 minutes from Penrith to Glenridding). About half of the departures carry on from Glenridding to Windermere (6/day, 1 hour).

Bus #505 connects Ambleside with Hawkshead (about hourly, 35 minutes).

Bus #555 connects Keswick with the south, including Ambleside and Windermere train station (1-2/hour, 1 hour to Windermere).

Bus #599, the open-top Lakesider, runs along the main Windermere corridor, connecting attractions in the south: Grasmere and Dove Cottage, Rydal Mount, Ambleside, Brockhole, Windermere, and lake cruises from Bowness Pier (2-3/hour, 40 minutes between Windermere and Grasmere).

By Bike: Keswick works well for several fine days out on a bike; consider a three-hour loop trip up Newlands Valley. Ask about routes at the TI or bike rental shop. You cannot take bikes on local boats or buses. Keswick’s bike shops are good but expensive (figure £40-50/day for road and mountain bikes; £55-80/day for e-bikes); rentals come with helmets and advice. Try E-Venture (happy to store bags while you rent for no cost, closed Sun, Elliot Park—facing the Keswick bus stop, +44 1768 721 920, e-venturebikes.co.uk) or Whinlatter Bikes (closed Sun and Wed, 82 Main Street, +44 1768 773 940, whinlatterbikes.com).

By Boat: Both Derwentwater and Ullswater have circular boat service, which glides you around the lake with several hiker-aiding stops along the way (for a cruise/hike option, see “Sights and Hikes at Ullswater,” later).

By Foot: Hiking information is available everywhere. Don’t hike without a good, detailed map. You’ll find maps outlining all the details of individual walks at the TIs in Keswick and Ullswater, and at many outdoor gear stores. For an up-to-date weather report, check lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk. Carry essentials, wear suitable clothing and footwear (you can rent boots in town; try the George Fisher outdoor store), and plan for rain. Watch your footing—every year, several people die in hiking accidents in the area.

By Bus Tour: For organized bus tours in the South Lake District, see here.

The National Park Visitors Centre/TI has everything you need to know about nature walks, hikes, talks, movies, theater, weather forecasts, and bus schedules. Formerly located on the town square, it will likely have moved to another location by the time you visit—ask locally (daily 9:30-17:30, Nov-Easter until 16:30, +44 1768 780 613, keswick.org; general Lake District info at +44 1539 724 555, lakedistrict.gov.uk). Staffers can advise you about hiking routes and help you figure out public transportation to outlying sights. The TI sells Keswick Launch boat tickets (at a small discount) and brochures and maps that outline nearby hikes (including a series of Lap Maps featuring sights, walks, and driving/cycling tours).

By Car: Drivers twist their way through the town’s congested streets. If staying overnight, ask your B&B about parking options. (Street parking along The Heads is free but can be tight.) If you’re day-tripping into town, the most central pay lots are the giant Bell Close car park, along Main Street, or the Central car park, along Heads Road; these flank the central Market Square area, putting everything within a short walk. If heading for a Derwentwater cruise or the theater, try the Lakeside car park. Additional, smaller pay lots surround the town center (for an all-day visit, the Rugby car park is cheap; just down Crow Park Road from the bus stop and Booths supermarket). Check signs carefully for street parking: Some disk parking spaces are time-limited (2 hours during the day).

By Bus: Keswick has no real bus station; buses stop in front of the giant Booths supermarket, where maps and posted schedules make your options clear. Be sure to find the right spot to queue; on busy days, long lines can form before buses arrive.

From here, it’s a short walk into town: With the big parking lot at your back, turn left, then curve right along Main Street (passing Stanger Street, with some recommended B&Bs) to the pedestrianized Market Square. To reach accommodations on The Heads, turn right from the bus stop, and follow the road as it curves around, becoming The Headlands (keep uphill/left at the fork).

• Laundry: The town’s launderette is on Bank Street, just across from the Bell Close parking lot (full- and self-service; Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00, +44 1768 775 448).
• Weather Info: Hikers should check the daily forecast at lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk. Weather can change instantly here—for better or worse—throughout the day.
• Midges: Tiny biting midges might bug you in this region from late May through September, particularly at dawn and dusk. Wind and sunshine can deter them, and insect repellent fends them off: Ask the locals what works if you’ll be hiking.
• Groceries and More: Get food to go at Booths, the huge supermarket facing the Keswick bus stop. It has a fine cafeteria (with indoor and outdoor seating), a great book and map section, and a public WC (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, Tithebarn Street, +44 1768 773 518).
• Local Guides: ShowMeCumbria Tours & Transfers, run by Andy Jackson, offers personalized tours around Cumbria and the Lake District. He’s based in Penrith but can pick up in Keswick and other locations (£195/half-day for 2-6 people, £385/full day, +44 7809 026 357, showmecumbria.co.uk, andy@showmecumbria.co.uk). Discover Lakeland guided tours are led by Anna Gray, a friendly, knowledgeable, and experienced Blue Badge guide. She gives customized tours throughout Cumbria, with a particular focus on the Lake District and the western sections of Hadrian’s Wall (from £240/half-day, from £360/full day, +44 7557 915 855, discoverlakeland.uk, anna@discoverlakeland.co.uk).

This inviting, grassy park stretches alongside Keswick’s River Greta. Everyone’s out having fun. You may catch men in white (or frisky schoolboys in uniform) playing a game of cricket.

The small-town Keswick Museum is as charming as they come, with exhibits celebrating local life—from Keswick’s earliest days as a gritty mining town to its tourism boom in the 18th and 19th centuries (for museum details, see the listing under “Sights in Keswick,” later). Downstairs and around back, the museum’s Café West has a fine little space where community members install rotating exhibits on topics dear to their hearts. The park beyond includes a lively playground.

Across the street from the museum, you can head down to Café HNW. This bustling centerpiece of the park (which has live music on weekend afternoons in summer) is surrounded by fun: There’s the serious bowling green (where you’re welcome to watch the experts play and enjoy the cheapest cuppa—i.e., tea—in town), and a public patch where tourists are welcome to give lawn bowling a go (the café rents gear for tennis, lawn bowling, and putting, daily 9:30-17:00, Station Road, +44 7972 214 839, cafehnw.co.uk).

• Head down the road between the museum and the bowling green, toward town. You’re walking down...

This was the main artery leading to Keswick’s train station, built in 1865. It was only in the late 18th century that Keswick became a popular destination for travelers. With wars and revolutions sweeping the Continent, wealthy Brits were unable to complete their Grand Tours; instead, they forged a new “domestic Grand Tour”—spurred by Wordsworth and other Romantics—that put the Lake District on the tourist map. The arrival of the railway pushed visitor numbers into overdrive.

At first, holidaymakers came only to look at the scenery, but as hiking boots and gear improved, more and more visitors began to conquer the nearby peaks. Later, in the 1950s and 1960s, Alfred Wainwright’s guidebooks to the Lake District’s 214 peaks spurred a trend of bagging as many summits as possible.

• Pause when you reach the bridge over the tree-lined, duck-filled River Greta.

Notice the fine riverside path, which might tempt you for an after-dinner stroll. Crossing the bridge, spot the old mill on the far bank, now a youth hostel. Now take a moment to imagine this entire parkland filled with water. The impacts of climate change are especially felt in places close to nature, like Keswick; they’ve had “once-a-century” floods three times already since 2000 (the worst, Storm Desmond in 2015, was considered by scientists a “once-every-1,300-years” event).

• After crossing the river, stop at the row of fine, old...

Much of Keswick is made of locally quarried stone and greenish slate, often in the Arts and Crafts style that was so popular around the turn of the 20th century. Traditionally, row houses like this were occupied by family-run B&Bs and small hotels. But more recently, traditional, mom-and-pop B&Bs are more often being converted into holiday homes and Airbnb-style self-catering rentals.

Across from the slate houses is a memorial for the dead of the World Wars—a fixture in every British town.

• Continue down the street (now called Station Street) and cross the busy road. After a long block, watch on the right for the fancy glass canopy marking the entrance to...

This mostly covered shopping gallery burrows through the middle of town. Walk straight through here. When you reach the T-intersection, make note of a couple of drinking holes: Craft Beer Keswick, to the right, with taps from two local microbreweries plus lots of cans and bottles (daily); and, straight ahead, Lake District Wine, with bottles and tastings (closed Mon).

• At the T-intersection, turn left and walk past the cheese shop to pop out in the middle of Keswick’s...

The town square is lively every day throughout the summer, especially on market days (Thu and Sat). Its centerpiece, Moot Hall (meaning “meeting hall”), dates to 1813; most Lake District towns and villages have similar halls, some from medieval times and once used for assembly, justice, and markets. Earlier, in the 16th century, a storehouse for copper stood here.

As you stand amidst this bustle, consider this: “Keswick” means “cheese farm”—a legacy from the time when the town square was the spot to sell cheese. You’ll still find cheesemongers among today’s 70 market stalls, along with other locally made foods and crafts. Go for a quick wander to take it all in—the market extends far below Moot Hall. It’s a mix of touristy and local: kitschy pubs, trendy burger joints, and outdoor outfitters along with charity shops, chemists, and chippies.

• Exit Market Square on the street to the right of the recommended Old Keswickian chippy, across from Moot Hall at the top of the square.

Along the street on the right is a classic (and recommended) pub, The Dog and Gun; a few steps farther, on the left, the Lakeland Slate Co. is a modern purveyor of custom, distinctly green slate products—from homey address plates to fireplace surrounds—all from nearby quarries.

• Continue down the street as it curves past touristy outlets. After passing a lonesome church on your left, head right along the street in front of the giant George Fisher outdoor store. Where the street comes to an end, bear left through pretty gardens and into a pedestrian underpass. On the far side, the street on the right heads up to The Heads—with a row of stately stone-and-slate buildings, a mix of traditional B&Bs and those glitzy “holiday lets.” But we’re heading left (following signs for The Lake). After just a few steps, go through the gate on the right into...

This lovely park occupies a central location between the town and the lake. You’ll first pass the ticket booth for a nine-hole pitch-and-putt golf course, offering a classy and affordable way to wind down after a long day of touring; for me, this activity is worth ▲ (daily from 10:00, last round starts around 18:00, possibly later in summer, shorter hours off-season, café, +44 1768 773 445, hopeleisure.com).

Continue past the pitch-and-putt to a neatly manicured area; higher up on the grassy lawn is a fine place to stroll, with great photo ops back on The Heads. Walk straight through the main part of the park until you see a giant squirrel on a stump.

• Across the path (on your right) is a bench with a life-size bronze statue of an English Springer Spaniel.

This is Max the Miracle Dog. During the Covid-19 pandemic, Max’s owner gained an avid following with daily livestreams of their walks together, surrounded by Lakeland beauty. Max, a trained therapy dog, lifted the spirits of lonely, housebound urbanites across Britain, and the world, with his gentle good cheer. Max’s death from old age in 2022 made national headlines.

Step through the green arch just to the right of Max (as you face him) and enjoy the beautiful view, with the park’s manicured gardens in the foreground, The Heads behind, and the fells on the horizon.

• Just past Max, turn right (keeping Lady Hope’s Garden on your left), then swing left through more fine gardens. Exit the park just past Kessie, the mountain-rescue helicopter (with the giant car park straight ahead). Turn right here and walk toward the lake in the distance. On your left is the...

Keswick’s theater is a top-quality venue; check at the box office to see what’s on. Across the path on the right is the entrance to yet another grassy lawn, Crow Park. Just past the theater, the Lakeside café and restaurant—with a wall of windows looking toward Derwentwater—can be a handy spot for a meal combined with a boat trip or a play.

• Finally, you reach...

One of Cumbria’s most photographed and popular lakes, Derwentwater has four islands, good boat service, and plenty of trails. At the boat landing, you can hop on a classic old wooden boat for a lazy cruise around Derwentwater—a scenic, easy, and fun way to pass the time (see listing later, under “Sights in Keswick”). You can also rent rowboats and motorboats.

While a fine, marked trail runs all along Derwentwater (9 miles, 4 hours, floods after heavy rains), a better bet is to combine a hike with a boat ride. This works especially well for reaching the trailhead for the wonderful Catbells hike (described later), or the 1.5-mile path between the docks at High Brandelhow and Hawes End, where you’ll stroll a level trail through peaceful trees.

• For just a taste of lakefront scenery, stick with me for about 10 more minutes and an...

Walk along the row of docks at the boat launch (either up above, or down along the bay), then keep going, taking the well-marked right fork to the Friar’s Crag viewpoint. From this pine-scented, rocky knob of land, fine views unfold through the trees over Derwentwater and the adjacent hills. This is a good place to find some midges (or, more accurately, they’ll find you). The pointy monument just above the viewpoint honors John Ruskin (1819-1900), the great thinker and writer who recalled a visit to this very spot as his earliest childhood memory. To extend your walk a few minutes more, follow the curving path down to the beach just beyond Friar’s Crag.

• Our walk is finished. Wander lonely as a cloud back toward the boat launch, where you can contemplate a cruise and/or hike; explore more of the big, grassy Hope Park; or slowly make your way back up into Keswick.

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This unexpectedly engaging museum—filling a beautiful 1897 building in Fitz Park—harnesses Keswick’s community spirit to make this small town’s history fascinating.

Cost and Hours: £7.50, daily 10:00-16:00, a short walk from Market Square on Station Road, +44 1768 773 263, keswickmuseum.org.uk.

Visiting the Museum: Stepping inside, appreciate the beautiful space—look up to see Arts and Crafts-style copper light fixtures (called “electroliers”), created by the Keswick School of Industrial Arts. From the ticket desk, to the right is a room with thoughtful changing exhibits, and to the left is the permanent collection. Take time reading the story of each item. Learn about local geology while studying a gigantic 1825 surveyor’s relief map of the Lake District, and gain an appreciation for Keswick’s flourishing as a tourist destination with the earliest known guidebook to the town, from the early 1910s.

A highlight are the “musical stones”: naturally occurring local stones that are musically resonant. Starting in the 1780s, locals began collecting stones of different lengths, carefully chipping away until they hit just the right note, then arranged them like a xylophone to play musical compositions.

The Keswick Launch Company provides service around the lake in distinctive, old-fashioned wooden boats (with a mix of outdoor and enclosed seating). They run two cruises an hour, alternating clockwise and “anticlockwise” (boats depart on the half-hour; daily 9:45-16:00, July-Aug until 17:30, Nov and Feb generally weekends only, does not run Dec-Jan; at end of Lake Road, +44 1768 772 263, keswick-launch.co.uk). Boats make seven stops on each 50-minute round-trip (may skip some stops or not run at all if the water level is very high or very low). The boat trip costs £3.30 per segment or £15.25 per round-trip circuit (£1.50 less if you book through TI) with free stopovers; you can get on and off all you want, but tickets are collected on the boat’s last leg to Keswick, marking the end of your ride. If you want to hop on the scenic #77/#77A bus and also cruise Derwentwater, the £17.90 Bus & Boat Explorer all-day pass covers both (see “Getting Around the Lake District—Without a Car,” earlier). To be picked up at a certain stop, stand at the end of the pier and wave, or the boat may not stop. See the “Derwentwater & Newlands Valley” map, later, for an overview of boat stops.

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For whatever reason, 70 percent of England’s stone circles are here in Cumbria. Castlerigg is one of the best and oldest in Britain, and an easy stop for drivers (it’s just 1.5 miles from Keswick). The circle—90 feet across and 5,000 years old—has 38 stones mysteriously laid out on a line between the two tallest peaks on the horizon. They may have served as a celestial calendar for ritual celebrations. Imagine the ambience here, as ancient people filled this clearing in spring to celebrate fertility, in late summer to commemorate the harvest, and in the winter to celebrate the winter solstice and the coming renewal of light.

Cost and Hours: Free, always open, east of Keswick on Eleventrees Road—see the “Derwentwater & Newlands Valley” map, later; about 30 minutes from town on foot—the last half up a fairly steep hill; by car, follow brown signs—it’s 3 minutes off the A-66, limited but easy parking, english-heritage.org.uk.

For a great “king of the mountain” feeling, 360-degree views, and a close-up look at the weather blowing over the ridge, take a two-hour hike above Derwentwater from the Hawes End Pier up along the ridge to Catbells (1,480 feet) and down to the High Brandelhow jetty. Because the mountaintop is basically treeless, you’re treated to dramatic panoramas the entire way up. From High Brandelhow, you can catch the boat back to Keswick or take the easy path along the Derwentwater shore to your Hawes End starting point. (Extending the hike farther around the lake to Lodore takes you to a waterfall, rock climbers, and another boat dock for a convenient return to Keswick—for more about Lodore, see here.)

Note: When the water level is very high (for example, after a heavy rain), boats can’t stop at Hawes End—ask at the TI or boat dock before setting out.

Getting There: While possible to reach the trailhead by car, parking is severely limited—just one teeny lot—so driving is not recommended. The most scenic and enjoyable option for getting to the trailhead is to catch the “anticlockwise” boat from Keswick (see “Derwentwater Cruises,” earlier) and ride for 10 minutes to the second stop, Hawes End. Note the schedule for your return boat ride.

Another option is to take bus #77/77A to Hawes End (7-8/day on clockwise #77A, fewer on #77; not all buses make this stop—check schedules for “Catbells”). And finally, hardcore hikers can walk all the way to the foot of Catbells from Keswick via Portinscale (takes about 40 extra minutes—ask your B&B or the TI for directions.)

The Route: The path is not signposted, but it’s easy to follow, and you’ll see plenty of other walkers. From Hawes End, walk away from the lake through a kissing gate to the turn just before the car park. Then turn left and go up, up, up. After about 20 minutes, you’ll hit the first of two short scrambles (where the trail vanishes into a cluster of steep rocks), which leads to a bluff. From the first little summit (great for a picnic break), and then along the ridge, you’ll enjoy sweeping views of the lake on one side and of Newlands Valley on the other. The bald peak in the distance is Catbells. Broken stones crunch under each step, wind buffets your ears, clouds prowl overhead, and the sheep baa comically. Just below the summit, the trail disintegrates into another short, steep scramble. Your reward is just beyond: a magnificent hilltop perch.

After the Catbells summit, descend along the ridge to a saddle ahead. The ridge continues much higher, and while it may look like your only option, at its base a small, unmarked lane with comfortable steps leads left. Unless you’re up for extending the hike, take this path down to the lake. You could take the official terrace path back to Hawes End, where you began. But for variety, I prefer to detour to High Brandelhow Pier: Take the first left fork you come across down through a forest to the lake. When you reach Abbot’s Bay, go left through a swinging gate, following a lakeside trail around a gravelly bluff, to the idyllic High Brandelhow Pier, a peaceful place to wait for your boat back to Keswick.

Note: On your way down from Catbells, rather than backtracking to High Brandelhow to return by boat, you could instead go the other way, descending down a scree slope to the charming village of Grange, where you can catch bus #78 back to Keswick (2/hour, the stop is over the Grange bridge on the main road).

For the easiest mountain-climbing sensation around, take the short drive to the Latrigg Peak parking lot just north of Keswick, and hike 15 minutes to the top of the 1,200-foot-high hill, where you’ll be rewarded with a commanding view of the town, lake, and valley, all the way to Bassenthwaite, the next lake over. At the traffic circle just outside Keswick, take the A-591 Carlisle exit, then an immediate right (direction: Ormathwaite/Underscar). Take the next right, a hard right, at the Skiddaw sign, where a long, steep, one-lane road dead-ends at the Latrigg parking lot. With more time, you can walk from your Keswick B&B to Latrigg and back (it’s a popular evening walk for locals—about 1.5 miles one-way).

A restored, fully paved four-mile path from the edge of Keswick follows an old train track and the river to the village of Threlkeld (with two pubs). You can return along the same path or loop back via the Castlerigg Stone Circle (described earlier, roughly 8 miles total). The railway path starts near Fitz Park behind the leisure center along Station Road (as you face the center, head right and around back).

From your Keswick B&B, a fine four-hour, seven-mile, round-trip walk to Walla Crag offers great fell and ridge walking without the need for a bus or car. Start by strolling along the lake to the Great Wood parking lot and head up Cat Ghyl (where “fell runners”—trail-running enthusiasts—practice) to Walla Crag. You’ll be treated to panoramic views over Derwentwater and surrounding peaks—especially beautiful when the heather blossoms in the summer. Descend toward Ashness Packhorse Bridge, then follow the road down to walk back along the lake (either on the shoulder, or—if the lake levels are low enough—along the shore). You can do a shorter version of this walk—just up to Walla Crag and back—from the parking lot at Ashness Packhorse Bridge.

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Keswickians brag that they enjoy “London theater quality at Keswick prices.” Cumbria’s only producing theater offers events year-round on two stages and a wonderful rotation of traveling and home-produced plays from late May through October. Attending a play here is a fine opportunity to enjoy a classy night out.

Cost and Hours: £12-42, discounts for those under 26; shows generally at 19:30, some matinees at 14:00; café, nearby Lakeside Restaurant handy for preshow dinner; located off Lake Road with parking in adjacent lot. It’s smart to buy tickets in advance—book online (theatrebythelake.com), at the box office, or by phone (+44 1768 774 411).

For an entertaining evening stroll, try Lakeland Hauntings Ghost Walks, led by a Victorian-costumed guide called simply “The Lady” (£10, generally summer Mon-Thu and Sat at 19:30, fewer departures in shoulder season, confirm schedule and book ahead, +44 7949 909 365, lakelandhauntings.co.uk).

To socialize with locals, head to a pub for one of their special evenings. Quiz nights are popular at many local pubs, and tourists are more than welcome. Drop in, say you want to join a team, and you’re in. If you like trivia, it’s a great way to get to know people here. The Pack Horse Inn hosts quiz nights most Wed at 21:30, plus live music on many weekends (Packhorse Court, just off the main square). The Oddfellows Arms is a good spot to catch live music (often classic rock) several nights a week (19 Main Street).

Many of these countryside choices are just a few minutes’ drive from Keswick, with easy parking, grand views, and perfect tranquility. These accommodations are all on or near the route of my self-guided driving tour (described later). For locations, see the “Derwentwater & Newlands Valley” map, earlier.

From Points South to the Lake District: From Liverpool or North Wales, the direct, easy way to Keswick is to leave the M-6 at Penrith and take the A-66 motorway for 16 miles to Keswick. For a scenic sightseeing drive through the south lakes to Keswick, exit the M-6 on the A-590/A-591 through the towns of Kendal and Windermere, in the South Lake District. From here, the A-road to Keswick is fastest, but the high road—the tiny road over Kirkstone Pass to Glenridding and lovely Ullswater—is much more dramatic (for a day plan built on this scenic route, see “Planning Your Time,” near the beginning of this chapter).

To or From Hadrian’s Wall: The fastest way between Keswick and the wall (in a little over an hour) is to drive north from Penrith to Carlisle on the M-6, then on to Haltwhistle on the A-69. For a much more scenic route, which adds only about 15 minutes, go by way of Alston. This takes you through haunting moorland scenery, over Hartside Pass (on the Cumbrian section) and through a bucolic landscape of stone walls, farms, sheep, and rolling hills (on the Northumbrian section).

To or From the West: Only 1,300 feet above sea level, Hardknott Pass is still a thriller, with a narrow, winding, steeply graded road. Just over the pass are the scant but evocative remains of the Hardknott Roman fortress. But avoid it on summer weekends, when the one-lane road is clogged by traffic.

If the Newlands Valley had a lake, it would be packed with tourists. But it doesn’t—and it isn’t. The valley is dotted with 500-year-old farms, many still family-owned and -operated. Out here, shearing day is reason to rush home from school. However, wool doesn’t bring in what it used to. Many farm families rent rooms or holiday apartments on the side. As in other parts of the Lake District, many houses have been bought up as second homes or holiday rentals, driving up prices and threatening some of the old lifestyles. And yet, many farmers still soldier on here, inundated from time to time with hikers climbing up the “easy way” behind Catbells.

The road (six miles to the pass) has one lane, with turnouts for passing. As you leave the open fields of the valley floor and climb up, pull over at the Newlands Pass summit (unmarked, but you’ll see a waterfall on the left and a parking pullout). Get out of your car to get a feel for the setting—and perhaps a short hike. Looking back down the valley, notice the glacial-shaped wilds, once forested, now not. An easy 300-yard hike leads to a little waterfall with fine valley views. On the other side of the road, a one-mile hike climbs up to Knott Rigg, which offers lots of TPCB (thrills per calorie burned).

• From Newlands Pass, descend toward...

Tucked between the remote Newlands Valley and rugged Honister Pass, this sweet little town (and nearby lake) is a miniature dose of civilization.

At the intersection at the top of town, either drive straight to dip down into the tiny hamlet—with a few eating options and a fine hike to a lovely lake (described below)—or, to continue our drive, turn left (signed Keswick via Honister Pass).

Tiny Buttermere can be jammed on busy days. To reach the village center, turn off the main road next to the Bridge Hotel; you’ll run into the little cul-de-sac where bus #77/#77A stops as well as three cramped pay lots (one on either side of the Buttermere Court Hotel, the other next to the Croft House Farm Café). From the parking areas, it’s a short walk to the lake—also called Buttermere—to begin my recommended walk (see next).

For accommodations in Buttermere, see here.

Buttermere Hike: This ideal little lake offers nonstop, no-sweat Lake District beauty with a ▲▲ stroll—if you’re not a hiker but wish you were, this walk is a good choice. Even those short on time should at least stop here and get their shoes dirty.

The trail starts at the Buttermere Court Hotel, in the center of the hamlet. You can circumnavigate the entire lake in about two hours (4 miles), or walk just two miles on the side of the lake opposite the road, from Buttermere to Gatesgarth Farm (about an hour, use pay lot at either end and ride bus #77/#77A to get back to your car—but check bus frequencies in advance).

Eating in Buttermere: In the center of town, the swanky £££ Bridge Hotel (aka Bridge Inn) has a higher-end pub with a cozy interior, outdoor tables, and good food (daily; also rents rooms). Tucked behind the Buttermere Court Hotel, ££ High Stile Kitchen has a nondescript interior and ample, appealing outdoor tables facing the fells (daily, +44 1768 770 253). For more casual food, try £ Croft House Farm Café, for freshly made soups, salads, and sandwiches to eat on their sunny deck or to take away (daily, +44 1768 770 235). And just a short walk up the road, the ££ Syke Farm Tea Room has good lunches (soups, sandwiches, pies), cakes, and ice cream (daily, +44 1768 770 277).

•From Buttermere, drive the length of the lake (passing Gatesgarth at the far end) and climb over rugged...

This area is strewn with glacial debris, remnants from the old slate mines, and curious shaggy sheep (the local breed, with their curly horns, look more like goats). The U-shaped valleys you’ll see are textbook examples of what a glacier can carve. Look high on the hillsides for small “hanging valleys”—they were cut off by the huge flow of the much larger glacier that swept down the main valley floor.

• At the summit, you’ll reach the Honister Slate Mine. Even if not taking a tour, stop to snap a photo from the viewpoint (just across the road from the parking lot) and consider perusing their slate-filled shop. Next to the mine is a pay lot for hikers wanting access to nearby high-altitude trails.

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England’s last still-functioning slate mine stands at the summit of Honister Pass, offering tours that are worth ▲ to those interested in industrial history. You’ll put on a hard hat, load onto a bus for a short climb, then hike into a shaft. It’s a long, stooped hike into the mountain, punctuated by the sound of your helmet scraping against low bits of the shaft. Standing deep in the mountain, surrounded by slate scrap and the beams of 30 headlamps fluttering around like fireflies, you’ll learn of the hardships of miners’ lives and how “green gold” is trendy once again, making the mine viable. Wear good walking shoes (be prepared to stoop, walk on uneven footing, and tackle several flights of stairs in the dark)—and bring warm clothing, as even in summer, you can see your breath in the mine.

Cost and Hours: £20; 1.5-hour tours depart regularly throughout the day, confirm times online (and ideally book ahead, as it can sell out); +44 1768 777 230, honister.com.

• Just beyond the mine, you’ll pass a youth hostel, originally built to house miners in the 1920s. From there, drop into the sweet and homey...

This valley was essentially a “company town” supplying workers to the slate mine—where quarrymen toiled underground, 14 hours a day, seven days a week, in exchange for vouchers that bought them tools, clothes, and food for their families.

Today, a few lonely and cute hamlets still dot the valley. In the first one—Seatoller—£££ The Yew Tree gastropub is a tempting spot for a meal (closed Mon-Tue, +44 1768 777 634). Soon after, you’ll pass through Borrowdale, then Rosthwaite. About a mile later, watch on the right for parking to visit the house-size Bowder Stone, a so-called erratic, thought to have been cleaved from the top of a nearby cliff by glacial activity. It’s about a 15-minute walk off the main road; a ladder lets you climb to the top of the stone.

Soon after, keep an eye on the left for a long, pretty stone bridge that leads to the village of Grange, which must be the cutest hamlet in the area. It’s built of locally quarried Lakeland Green slate, and mostly by one builder, which adds to the tidy feel.

Farther along, Lodore Falls is a short walk from the road, behind the Lodore Falls Hotel (a nice place to stop for tea and beautiful views). Shepherds Crag, a cliff overlooking Lodore, was made famous by pioneering rock climbers as far back as the 1890s. (Their descendants hang from little ridges on its face today.)

• Soon, your first glimpses of Derwentwater (the far end of the lake from Keswick) come into view. From here, you can head straight back to Keswick, or consider a...

Just after passing what once housed the Derwentwater Hostel (near the southern tip of the lake), watch on the right for an easy-to-miss, hard right turn at the Ashness Gate Pier (signposted Ashness Bridge, Watendlath). Once on this road, drive steeply about a half-mile up a narrow lane to the postcard-pretty Ashness Packhorse Bridge, a quintessential Lake District scene (drive over the bridge, then watch for the pay parking lot just above, on the right). Get out here for a fun photo op of the stone arch, with gurgling streams and waterfalls pouring beneath it.

A half-mile farther up, on the left, is another big parking lot. Hop out here and cross the street. You’ll be startled by the “surprise view” of Derwentwater.

• If you want to continue a bit farther, the road gets extremely narrow en route to the hamlet of Watendlath, which has a tiny lake and lazy farm animals. Otherwise, return to the main B-5289 road for the drive back to Keswick. If you have yet to see it, cap your drive with a short detour from Keswick to the Castlerigg Stone Circle (described under “Sights in Keswick,” earlier).

For drivers, Ullswater is a quick side trip from Keswick (about 30 minutes away), and it’s an easy detour when connecting between Keswick and points east (such as Hadrian’s Wall or York) or south (Liverpool). If driving to the Glenridding boat dock, the turnoff for the dock is just past the town center; drive right past the expensive overflow lot and continue to the pay lot at the dock.

Nondrivers can reach Ullswater on bus #508 from Penrith. For a full day on Ullswater, consider the £20 all-day Bus & Boat Ullswater Explorer ticket (buy on bus). For example, you could ride the bus from Penrith to Pooley Bridge, hop on the boat for the one-hour cruise down to Glenridding, ride the shuttle boat to Aira Force Waterfall, then catch bus #508 back to Penrith—all covered by a single ticket.

By Car: Driving is your best option to connect the sights clustered here. If you’re coming to or from the South Lake District from the west, you could take the steeply winding Hardknott Pass for a scenic introduction to the area (see “Keswick Connections,” earlier).

By Bus: The town of Windermere, with train and bus stations, is a transportation hub. Buses #599 and #555 are a fine and stress-free way to lace together the gauntlet of sights in the congested Lake Windermere area. Consider parking your car at Grasmere or Windermere to ride the breezy and scenic bus #599, hopping off and on as you like (using the Central Lakes DayRider ticket; see “Getting Around the Lake District—Without a Car,” on here).

By Bus Tour: Mountain Goat Tours runs half- and full-day minibus excursions from Windermere or Ambleside to a variety of scenic highlights. Customizable private tours are also available (starting at £30/half-day, £60/full day, tours run April-Oct, 16 people maximum, book in advance, +44 1539 445 161, mountain-goat.com, tours@mountain-goat.com).

By Boat: Windermere Lake Cruises run from Bowness to Ambleside and other points on the lake all year (+44 1539 443 360, windermere-lakecruises.co.uk). The Bowness car ferry, which crosses the lake in just five minutes, is scenic but purely practical—not a sightseeing trip.

The small lake called Grasmere, north of Lake Windermere (and less than a 30-minute drive from Keswick), is where you’ll find two important sights related to William Wordsworth: Dove Cottage (the humble and characterful home where he spent his most productive years) and Rydal Mount (where he lived later, after he’d “made it”).

Wordsworth was one of the first writers to reject fast-paced city life. During England’s Industrial Age, hearts were muzzled and brains ruled. Science was in, machines were taming nature, and factory hours were taming humans. In reaction, a rare few—dubbed Romantics—began to embrace untamed nature and undomesticated emotions.

Getting There: Dove Cottage and Rydal Mount are easy for drivers, or doable by public transit (from Keswick, take bus #555; or from Windermere, #555 or #599).

▲▲Dove Cottage at Wordsworth Grasmere

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For literary types, this visit is the top sight of the Lake District. The poet whose appreciation of nature and a back-to-basics lifestyle put this area on the map spent his most productive years (1799-1808) in this well-preserved stone cottage on the edge of Grasmere. After functioning as the Dove and Olive Bow pub for almost 200 years, it was bought by his family. This is where Wordsworth got married, had kids, and wrote much of his best poetry.

You’ll take a short tour of William Wordsworth’s humble cottage; get inspired in its excellent museum, which displays original writings, sketches, personal items, and fine paintings; and wander the garden and orchard. Even during his lifetime, Wordsworth was famous (his fans dubbed this area “Wordsworthshire”), and Dove Cottage was turned into a museum in 1891—it’s now protected by the Wordsworth Trust. A complete visit takes about 40 minutes, plus however long you linger in the museum.

Cost and Hours: £16 for cottage and museum, £13 for museum only; cottage visit only with included guided tour (every 20 minutes); Tue-Sat 10:00-16:00 or 17:00 depending on demand, closed Sun-Mon; café, +44 1539 435 544, wordsworth.org.uk. There’s pay parking in the Dove Cottage lot off the main road (A-591), 50 yards from the site.

Book Ahead: During busy summers and weekends, slots to enter the cottage can sell out—it’s best to book a day before. At quieter times, you’ll likely just wait for the next tour to depart (you can pass the time perusing the museum).

Events: Check the website for occasional events and activities, such as poetry readings by volunteers in period costumes, and opportunities to sketch or pen your own poem.

Visiting the Cottage and Museum: From the entrance building, your guide will lead you to the stables to watch a beautifully produced 10-minute video introducing Wordsworth’s time here, first with his sister Dorothy (a compulsive journaler who chronicled life at the cottage), and later with his wife, Mary. Inside the cottage you are free to look around while your guide stands by to answer questions. Scattered on tables are re-creations of handwritten poems, journal entries, and letters. One of the tables and a nearby grandfather clock actually belonged to Wordsworth.

From the house, exit into the garden and orchard out back. Take some time to wander here, just as Wordsworth did.

The museum (“Galleries”) has lots of manuscripts handwritten by Wordsworth and his illustrious friends, and media displays combining recitations of his poetry with views of the landscapes that inspired him. Look for some intimate artifacts, including the poet’s suitcase from a four-month Grand Tour to Europe (he packed light), walking stick, socks, and sandwich box.

Rydal Mount and Gardens

Located just down the road from Dove Cottage—but far less intimate and insightful—this sight is worth ▲ for Wordsworth fans. The poet’s final, higher-class home may lack the humble charm of Dove Cottage but still evokes the creative spirit of the literary giant who lived here for 37 years (starting in 1813). Until recently, his great-great-great-great-grandsons still called it home on occasion; however, the property has been sold and may be closed when you visit (check website for updates).

If open, you’re free to roam the house, which feels like the upscale manor of a successful person who’s “arrived.” Then wander through the expansive garden, which William himself designed and which has changed little since.

Cost and Hours: £12.50, £6.50 for garden only; daily 10:30-16:00, shorter hours off-season and closed Jan, occasionally closed for private functions—check website; free parking, +44 1539 433 002, rydalmount.co.uk.

Author and illustrator Beatrix Potter, of Peter Rabbit fame, lived and worked in the Lake District for years. Of the many attractions in the area that claim a connection to her, there’s really only one worth visiting: Hill Top Farm, where she made many of her sketches and paintings of natural subjects such as wildflowers, insects, hedgehogs, and—of course—rabbits. Hill Top Farm is appealingly perched in the bucolic hills above Windermere’s west shore, removed from the touristic logjam below and just a few minutes’ drive from the charming village of Hawskhead, with a good schoolhouse museum.

▲Hill Top Farm

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Well worth ▲▲▲ to Beatrix Potter fans (and appealing but skippable for others), this dark and intimate cottage, swallowed up in the inspirational and rough nature around it, provides an enjoyable if quick experience. The six-room farmhouse has been left as it was when Potter died in 1943. At her request, the house is set as if she had just stepped out—flowers on the tables, fire on, lights low. In addition to basic posted information, guides in each room are eager to explain things. Fans of the classic Tale of Samuel Whiskers will recognize the home’s rooms, furniture, and views—the book and its illustrations were inspired by an invasion of rats when Potter bought this place.

Cost and Hours: Farmhouse and gardens-£17; daily 10:00-16:00, June-Aug until 17:00, closed in winter and on some Fri—check online; +44 1539 436 269, nationaltrust.org.uk/hill-top.

Reservations Recommended (and Required for Drivers): Only 40 people are allowed in every 30 minutes. Admission is by timed ticket, and reservations open up every Thursday for the next two weeks (if slots are still available, you can book online up until 8:00 the same day). Drivers must book admission in advance to guarantee a spot in the small parking lot. Big bus or student groups (common in late July and Aug) tend to book up morning slots. Afternoon tickets may be available on a first-come, first-served basis, but if Hill Top is high on your list, it’s best to book in advance.

Getting There: Drivers can take the B-5286 and B-5285 from Ambleside or the B-5285 from Coniston—be prepared for extremely narrow roads. The free museum parking lot and ticket office are about 150 yards down the road from the farm, at the end of the village. Check in at the office by the parking lot, then walk along the roadside through the delightful village to the farm.

From Windermere, take bus #505 or catch the car ferry from Bowness (runs continually except when it’s extremely windy, 5-minute crossing). From the ferry dock (Ash Landing), it’s a five-minute drive to Hill Top. Or ride the seasonal Mountain Goat bus #525 between the ferry dock and Hawkshead, with a stop at the farm (daily late May-Sept, 2-3/hour, £3; confirm schedule at museum website). Otherwise, walk 40 minutes from the ferry landing.

Visiting the Museum: Entering the property, head up through the garden (along a beautiful lawn under a big tree) and step into the main house. Guides will give you an orientation, then set you free to explore each room. On the main floor are the Hall, a large entry room with a fireplace, and the parlor. Upstairs is a bedroom, music room, treasure room, and temporary rotating exhibits. The author and artist didn’t have a single writing room; in this dark house, with no electric lights, she moved around to make the most of available light, and often did her work outdoors.