PRACTICALITIES
Map: Public Transportation Routes in Croatia and Slovenia
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Map: Driving in Croatia and Slovenia
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably and well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.
Travel Tips
Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, on the travel pages of the US State Department (www.travel.state.gov) and Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov/travel). The US embassy websites for the countries in this book are good sources of information (described next). Be aware of any entry requirements, such as proof of vaccination, for each country on your itinerary.
ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering Schengen Zone countries—including Croatia and Slovenia (a quick and easy process). For the latest, check www.etias.com.
Tourist Information: National tourist offices are a wealth of information. Before your trip, visit each country’s website for events, activities, and attractions by region. Explore information on Croatia’s islands and active tourism (+385 212 279 8672, https://croatia.hr), Slovenia’s outdoor activities and tourist farms (www.slovenia.info), Montenegro’s scenic coastline and rugged interior (www.montenegro.travel), and Bosnia-Herzegovina’s hiking opportunities and well-preserved historical sites (there’s no official tourist board website, but www.tourismbih.com is helpful).
A good first stop in every town is generally the tourist information office—abbreviated TI in this book (though locally, you may see them marked TZ, for turistička zajednica). Throughout Croatia and Slovenia, and in Montenegro, you’ll find TIs are usually well organized and always have an English-speaking staff; in Bosnia, due to funding cuts, TIs are unfortunately hit-or-miss...or nonexistent.
TIs are in business to help you spend money in their town—which can color their advice—but I still swing by to pick up a city map and get info on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Some TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so you can pick up maps and other info for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip.
Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 from a mobile phone or landline (operators typically speak English). If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know of the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy or consulate (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost items, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.
US Embassies: In Croatia—Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, Zagreb, +385 1 661 2200, consular services +385 1 661 2345, https://hr.usembassy.gov; in Slovenia—Prešernova 31, Ljubljana, +386 1 200 5500, https://si.usembassy.gov; in Montenegro—Džona Džeksona 2, Podgorica, +382 20 410 500, https://me.usembassy.gov; and in Bosnia-Herzegovina—Ulica Robert C. Frasure 1, Sarajevo, +387 33 704 000, https://ba.usembassy.gov. At any of these, it’s advisable to call ahead to ensure they’re open, and sometimes to make an appointment.
Canadian Embassies: In Croatia, it’s in Zagreb at Prilaz Đure Deželića 4 (+385 1 488 1200, www.international.gc.ca/country-pays/croatia-croatie). Slovenia has a Canadian consulate in Ljubljana (Linhartova Cesta 49a, +386 1 252 4444), but some services for Slovenia—and all services for Bosnia-Herzegovina—are provided through the Canadian embassy in Budapest, Hungary (+36 1 392 3360, www.international.gc.ca/country-pays/hungary-hongrie). For Montenegro, you’ll use the Canadian embassy in Belgrade, Serbia (+381 11 306 3000, www.international.gc.ca/country-pays/serbia-serbie). For after-hours emergencies from anywhere, call Canadian tel. +1 613 996 8885 (call collect if from a landline).
Borders: Croatia and Slovenia (as well as neighboring countries such as Italy, Austria, and Hungary) are in the open-borders Schengen zone, which means you typically don’t have to stop or show your passport to cross between them. However, whether you’re traveling by car, train, or bus, you’ll still need to go through passport control when entering or exiting Montenegro or Bosnia-Herzegovina. These border crossings are fairly routine: There may be a line of cars, but when it’s your turn, it’s simply a matter of handing over your passport for a few seconds. Drivers may be asked to show proof of car insurance (“green card”), so be sure you have it when you pick up your rental car. Because there are lots of day-trippers going between Croatia and Montenegro or Bosnia, there can be a long wait at certain borders on busy days. I’ve explained some of your options in this book, including less-used borders and strategies for timing your crossing to sidestep the worst of the crowds (typically that means avoiding midmorning and late afternoon). Remember that Croatia, Slovenia, and Montenegro all use the same euro currency; Bosnia has its own currency, but euros are often accepted there as well.
Time Zones: Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Montenegro, like most of continental Europe, are generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).
Business Hours: Particularly in seasonal resort areas along the coast, business hours can be very unpredictable—dictated entirely by demand. A shop may be open daily from 9:00 to 24:00 in August, with its hours becoming progressively shorter in the shoulder season until it closes entirely in mid-October. In larger, less touristy cities and towns—and in most of Slovenia—hours are a bit more predictable (typically Mon-Fri from around 8:00 or 9:00 until 17:00, Sat mornings from 8:00 or 9:00 until 12:00 or 13:00, and closed Sun). In both Croatia and Slovenia, you will find a few businesses open on Sundays, but generally only in touristy areas or in large cities (especially near bus or train stations). Friday and Saturday evenings are rowdy; Sunday evenings are quiet.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and appliances (newer hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.
Rip up this book! Turn chapters into mini-guidebooks: Break the book’s spine and use a utility knife to slice apart chapters, keeping gummy edges intact. Reinforce the chapter spines with clear wide tape; use a heavy-duty stapler; or make or buy a cheap cover (see the Travel Store at RickSteves.com), swapping out chapters as you travel.
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 65 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only to European citizens.
Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com and DeepL.com are also handy. The Google Translate app converts spoken or typed English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera.
Smoking Bans: Croatia and Slovenia have enacted smoking bans in most public places, which are generally obeyed—though patrons at outdoor tables can still smoke (and often do, like chimneys). Montenegro and Bosnia-Herzegovina have recently passed similar bans, but the jury is still out on enforcement.
Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint while traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them). Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed brochures, maps, or other materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, see RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.
Money
Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Europe. I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Credit Card: You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big (hotels, advance tickets) and small (little shops, food stands). Some European businesses have gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is the most widely accepted and simplest to use.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw a small amount of local cash. Wait until you arrive to get cash (European airports have plenty of ATMs); if you buy cash before your trip, you’ll pay bad stateside exchange rates. While most transactions are by card these days, cash can help you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work, and can be useful to pay for things like tips and local guides.
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.
Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency (for example, if your debit card gets eaten by the machine).
BEFORE YOU GO
Know your cards. For credit cards, Visa and Mastercard are universal while American Express and Discover are less common. US debit cards with a Visa or Mastercard logo will work in any European ATM.
Go “contactless.” Get comfortable using contactless pay options. Check to see if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines), and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section for details). Both options are widely used in Europe and are more secure than a physical credit card: Instead of recording your credit card number, a one-time encrypted “token” enables the purchase and expires shortly afterward.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.
Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can withdraw daily and ask for a higher daily limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not savings accounts.
Find out about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or Mastercard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new card. Reputable no-fee cards include those from Capital One, as well as Charles Schwab debit cards. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.
IN EUROPE
Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps
Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: These cards have the usual chip and/or magnetic stripe, but with the addition of a contactless symbol. Simply tap your card against a contactless reader to complete a transaction—no PIN or signature is required. This is by far the easiest way to pay and has become the standard in much of Europe.
Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. To pay, hold your phone near a contactless reader; you may need to verify the transaction with a face scan, fingerprint scan, or passcode. If you’ve arrived in Europe without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone to work in this way.
Other Card Types: Chip-and-PIN cards have a visible chip embedded in them; rather than swiping, you insert the card into the payment machine, then enter your PIN on a keypad. Swipe-and-sign credit cards—with a swipeable magnetic stripe, and a receipt you have to sign—are increasingly rare.
Will My US Card Work? Usually, yes. On rare occasions, at self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks, tollbooths, or fuel pumps), some US cards may not work. Usually a tap-to-pay card does the trick in these situations. Just in case, carry cash as a backup and look for a cashier who can process your payment if your card is rejected. Drivers should be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. (In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card.) When approaching a toll plaza or ferry ticket line, use the “cash” lane.
Using Cash
Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate. In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in Croatia and Slovenia ask for a Bankomat. When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later.
Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Your Cash, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see next).
Dynamic Currency Conversion: When withdrawing cash at an ATM or paying with a credit card, you’ll often be asked whether you want the transaction processed in dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While DCC offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate, and you’ll wind up losing money.
Exchanging Cash: In general, minimize exchanging money in Europe; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). But because the countries in this region have different currencies, you may wind up with leftover cash. Coins can’t be exchanged once you leave the country, so spend them before you cross the border. Bills are easy to convert to the “new” country’s currency, but remember that regular banks have the best rates for the conversion. Post offices and train stations usually change money if you can’t get to a bank.
Security Tips
Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Avoid using a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).
Damage Control for Lost Cards
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. With a mobile phone, call these 24-hour US numbers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), Mastercard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111). From a landline, you can call these US numbers collect by going through a local operator.
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see RickSteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.
TIPPING
Tipping is a fairly recent innovation, imported to Croatia and Slovenia by tourists. Many locals still don’t tip at all, so any tip is appreciated—and a generous, Yankee-sized tip is extravagant. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: You don’t need to tip if you order your food at a counter. At restaurants that have a waitstaff, round up the bill 5-10 percent after a good meal. If paying with a credit card, be prepared to tip separately with cash or coins; credit card receipts don’t often have a tip line. For details on tipping in restaurants, see here.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €9.25, hand over €10). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.
Services: In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a superb job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. Local guides, private drivers, or others who spend many hours with you to improve the quality of your trip deserve a healthy tip for a job well done—in this case, 10 percent or more is not extravagant. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
GETTING A VAT REFUND
Wrapped into the purchase price of your souvenirs is a value-added tax (VAT) of 25 percent in Croatia, 22 percent in Slovenia, 17 percent in Bosnia, and 19 percent in Montenegro (“VAT” is called “PDV” in this part of the world). You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than a certain amount (for example, €100 in Croatia, €50.01 in Slovenia) of goods at a store that participates in the VAT refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Getting your refund is usually straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.
At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Europe.
At the Border or Airport: Process your VAT document at your last stop in the country in which you made your purchase (or, if you bought it in the European Union, at your last stop in the European Union, such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds (allow plenty of extra time to deal with this process). At some airports, you’ll have to go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. At other airports, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing. (Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee, but you’re paying for the convenience of receiving your money in cash immediately or as a credit to your card.) Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant.
CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Croatia’s and Slovenia’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS
A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Europe, simple maps are generally free at TIs and hotels.
You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device, which provides turn-by-turn directions for walking, driving, and taking public transit. Google Maps, Apple Maps, and City Maps2Go allow you to download maps for offline use; ideally, download the areas you’ll need before your trip. For certain features, you’ll need to be online—either using Wi-Fi or an international data plan.
PLAN AHEAD
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at a region’s top destinations, see this book’s “At a Glance” sidebars for major cities and regions. The hours at sights tend to fluctuate with demand from season to season (especially in coastal towns), and since the Covid-19 pandemic, hours for museums and sights have been unstable. Both before and during your trip, confirm the latest opening days and times with the TI or on a museum or sight’s official website (listed throughout this book).
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Midmorning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.
Study up. To avoid redundancy, many cultural or historical details are explained for one sight in this book and not repeated for another; to get the full picture, read the entire chapter for each destination before you visit.
CROWD-BEATING TIPS
While reserving tickets online for major museums is important in much of Europe, the destinations in this book don’t generally have sights where this is required—or even recommended. Croatia, Slovenia, and Bosnia have some wonderful museums, but none of them are internationally famous, marquee-type attractions—so even during busy times, it’s typically straightforward to get in with little to no wait. The only exceptions are two natural wonders: Plitvice Lakes National Park (in Croatia) and Vintgar Gorge (near Slovenia’s Lake Bled), where reserving an entry time slot is strongly recommended.
There are a few attractions in very popular places where you might encounter lines—for example, in Dubrovnik, to ride the cable car up to the mountain above town, or to walk around the City Walls; or in Split, to enter Diocletian’s cellars or the cathedral. In these cases, the lines aren’t to buy tickets but to enter. At these places, it’s critical to heed this book’s advice about the best time(s) of day to visit. If you’re ascending Dubrovnik’s City Walls very early, or later in the afternoon, you’ll likely experience fewer crowds.
Some places (such as Dubrovnik) have sightseeing passes that cover multiple attractions. Increasingly, these can only be purchased online; you’ll be emailed a QR code that you can show to gain entrance. This is more a convenience and potential cost-saver than a time-saver.
AT SIGHTS
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Audioguides and Apps: Some sights offer audioguides with recorded descriptions in English. In some cases, you’ll rent a device to carry around (if you bring your own plug-in earbuds, you’ll enjoy better sound). Increasingly, museums and sights instead offer an audioguide app you can download (often free; check websites from home and consider downloading in advance, as not all sights offer free Wi-Fi).
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Services: The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.
Sleeping
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book. That’s because the accommodations scene in Croatia and Slovenia is quirky and complicated. In most Croatian destinations, you have two basic choices: either a very expensive hotel, or what locals call “private accommodations”—a rented apartment (apartman, plural apartmani) or a room in a private home (soba, pronounced SOH-bah; plural sobe, SOH-bay). I explain the ins and outs of each in this section. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose places that are clustered in appealing neighborhoods or convenient to your sightseeing.
My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I look for places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for local traditions. My favorites are small, family-run hotels (which are rare) and friendly local people who rent “hotelesque” private rooms without a reception desk (which are, thankfully, abundant). I’m more impressed by a handy location and a fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals.
Some people make reservations a few days ahead as they travel. This approach fosters spontaneity, and booking sites make it easy to find available rooms, but—especially during busy times—you run the risk of settling for lesser-value accommodations.
RATES AND DEALS
In Croatia, there’s a gulf between the high end and the low—with not a lot in the middle. My recommendations range from $15 bunks to $500-plus splurges, but most cluster around two poles: rented rooms or apartments in private homes, which can run anywhere from $50 for a basic double to $120 for something more hotelesque and private; and hotels—whether big resorts on the outskirts of town, or smaller boutique hotels closer to the center—which tend to start around $300 and shoot up from there. In many coastal destinations it can be next to impossible to find something in the middle (though in some places, you can find resort hotels that are a very long walk or bus/taxi ride from the center of town for around $200). At all but the very cheapest places, certain amenities are standard: a private bathroom, air-conditioning, decent if not lightning-fast Wi-Fi, and often a TV.
Slovenia has a wider range of affordable, small, midrange hotels (about $100-150 in Ljubljana and Lake Bled, a bit less in small towns and the countryside); there are also some cheaper options and splurges, of course.
Bosnia is a very inexpensive place to travel, and even in a big city like Sarajevo, true luxury accommodations are rare; you’ll find many perfectly comfortable guesthouses and even business-class hotels for well under $100.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Notice that my price ranges are intentionally not based on peak-of-peak season—July and August—when rates skyrocket and fewer of my readers are traveling. Instead, they are based on rates during shoulder season: June and September.
Especially at bigger hotels, room prices can fluctuate wildly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant. Short stays (of less than three nights) are discouraged, especially in peak season. In July or August, you may be charged extra if staying only one or two nights; some places even have a minimum-stay requirement. But if you can fill a gap in their reservations schedule, they might waive this surcharge.
Three or four people can save money by requesting one big room. Traveling alone can be expensive: A single room is often only 20 percent cheaper than a double.
Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several accommodations. You can do this by checking their individual websites and also booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. (Some of my recommended accommodations can be found on those sites, or on Airbnb.com.) After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book direct, ideally by email. (Alternatively, some places have a booking form on their website.) Because this lets the property owner avoid the commission paid to booking sites, they’re more inclined to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included). Booking direct also increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as a quiet room or an adjustment to your reservation).
Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show this book upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
HELPFUL HINTS
Get help finding your accommodations. On the Croatian coast, most of my recommendations are small family homes with just a few rooms, often tucked up narrow lanes from the main square or main drag. As these can be tricky to find, use the maps in this book, get careful directions from your host, and ask anyone you pass as you’re looking. If they offer to come meet you at the ferry...accept! Even if the soba owner is not there to meet you, someone at the bar next door can track them down for you.
Be prepared to walk...and climb. Many of my accommodations are buried in the heart of historic old towns. Often, you’ll need to huff up lots of stone steps to reach your room. Once there, you may have to climb up narrow staircases to a cozy, upper-floor perch. If you have limited mobility, or just prefer to avoid stairs, be clear on the difficulty level of reaching your room before you commit.
B.Y.O.B. (bring—or buy—your own breakfast). Many of my accommodations don’t provide breakfast. In each town, I’ve recommended some places to buy your own. But if you’d like a simple “picnic breakfast” in your room, bring along or buy some individual instant coffee pouches (like Nescafé or Starbucks Via), and grab some goodies at the bakery the evening before.
Bring earplugs. Bars and nightclubs fill the Old Town centers of many cities and towns in this book. I’ve noted the specific hotels that suffer the worst noise. If you’re a light sleeper, make a point of requesting a quiet room, and check online reviews to avoid the worst offenders.
Expect odors. Throughout this region, some buildings have Yugoslav-era septic-tank systems that aren’t properly vented. On rainy days, a faint sewage smell may drift into rooms. This isn’t harmful, but it can be unpleasant and is impossible to predict. Nothing can be done about it, so don’t bother complaining (unless you want to try to switch to a less-smelly room).
Perhaps because of poor ventilation—or because they tend to be located in musty old stone buildings—some hotels and sobe in Croatia use heavily perfumed air fresheners in their rooms. It’s usually easy to locate and unplug these, but if you are very sensitive to fragrances, try asking your host to remove them before you arrive.
Bring bug spray. Window screens are rare in this area, so in warm weather be prepared to share your room with mosquitoes and other bugs.
Shower smart. If there seems to be no hot water, try flipping the switch with a picture of a water tank, usually next to the light switch. (Ideally, discover this switch long before you need to shower, and keep it on—otherwise you’ll have to wait 20-30 minutes for the water to heat up.) In many sobe, the hot-water tank is tiny—barely big enough for one American-length shower. So two people traveling together may want to practice the “navy shower” method (douse yourself, turn off water, soap up, then turn water back on for a quick rinse)...or the second person may be in for a chilly surprise. The incredibly high water pressure in most Croatian showers makes the hot water go that much faster (turn the faucet on only partway to help stretch the precious hot water).
TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS
Private Accommodations (Sobe and Apartments)
Private accommodations offer travelers a characteristic and money-saving alternative for a fraction of the price of a hotel. You have two options: sobe (rooms) or apartmani (apartments). Often, a house renting both types is called a vila or villa—like a small guesthouse or pension.
Often run by empty-nesters, private accommodations are similar to British bed-and-breakfasts...minus the breakfast (ask your host about the best nearby breakfast spot). The simplest sobe allow you to experience Croatia on the cheap, at nearly youth-hostel prices, while giving you a great opportunity to connect with a local family. The fanciest sobe are downright swanky and offer near-hotel anonymity and amenities.
It’s possible to travel most of the year without reservations, especially if you arrive early in the day (although popular tourist towns can be completely full in late July and August). But given the good value of the accommodations I’ve found for this book, I’d recommend that you reserve your rooms as soon as you’ve pinned down your travel dates. For busy national holidays, it’s wise to reserve far in advance (see the appendix for a list of holidays).
Because my favorite accommodations tend to be small-time entrepreneurs renting only a few rooms, they book up fast with my readers. I’ve tried to list several good options, so if your first choice is full, you can simply try others on the list. Sometimes one of my listings might offer to find you somewhere else to stay. This can be convenient, but don’t feel obligated—you’ll have more control over your options if you book direct, using my recommendations.
Requesting a Reservation: For sobe and family-run hotels, it’s generally best to book your room direct by email or phone. For business-class and chain hotels, or if you’d rather book online, reserve direct through the hotel’s official website (not a booking website). Almost all of my recommended hotels take reservations in English.
Here’s what the hotelier or sobe host wants to know:
• Type(s) of rooms you want and number of guests
• Number of nights you’ll stay
• Arrival and departure dates, written European-style as day/month/year (for example, 18/06/24 or 18 June 2024)
• Special requests (en suite bathroom, cheapest room, twin beds vs. double bed, quiet room)
• Applicable discounts (such as a Rick Steves discount, cash discount, or promotional rate)
Confirming a Reservation: Some places will request a credit-card number to hold your room. If the hotel’s website doesn’t have a secure form where you can enter the number directly, share this info on a phone call.
Canceling a Reservation: If you must cancel, it’s courteous—and smart—to do so with as much notice as possible, especially for smaller family-run places and sobe. Cancellation policies can be strict; read the fine print before you book. Many discount deals may require prepayment and can be expensive to change or cancel.
Reconfirming a Reservation: Always call or email to reconfirm your room reservation a few days in advance. For smaller hotels and sobe, I call again on my arrival day to tell my host what time to expect me (especially important if arriving after 17:00).
Phoning: For tips on calling hotels overseas, see here.
Apartments are typically bigger and cost slightly more than sobe, but they’re still far cheaper than hotels. At many places, the only real difference between a soba and an apartment is that the apartment comes with a kitchenette. If you make good use of the kitchen, this can be a good investment to stretch your meal budget. Apartments are also more likely to have laundry facilities.
Registered sobe are rated by the government using a system that assigns stars based on amenities. Three or more stars means that you’ll have your own bathroom, while two stars puts the bathroom down the hall. (Apartments always have private bathrooms.) Air-conditioning and Wi-Fi are (almost) universal, except at some of the very cheapest places. The prices for private accommodations fluctuate dramatically with the seasons, and remember that stays of fewer than three nights often come with a surcharge (though this can be waived outside peak season).
There are generally two kinds of sobe hosts: those who want minimal interaction with their guests, and hosts who are friendly and may want to get to know you. Think about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a Croatian? Some rent rooms scattered around town, in which case you probably won’t see much of the hosts. In other cases, they have one or two rooms in their own home, making it easier to strike up a friendship. Read my descriptions and online reviews to help shape your decision.
Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually explore the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to the bus station or boat dock, and how near or far the property is from the charming Old Town where you’ll be spending most of your time. Ask about extra amenities (laundry, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can identify trouble spots.
The best-value sobe deservedly book up early, so reservations are highly recommended. It’s important to book direct—not through a booking site. The importance of this can’t be overstated. Several sobe hosts I list in this book told me that some of my readers have emailed them to check availability...and then proceeded to book through a third party. This frustrates them because it costs both you and your host more money. Reserving directly with the host often results in a better price (see the sidebar), and it lets them keep all of that income. Any special prices or discounts I’ve negotiated for this book are invalidated if you use an intermediary.
After you’ve reserved, keep in mind that your host loses money if you don’t show up. For this reason, some hosts may request your credit-card number to secure the reservation. (They’ll generally ask for payment in cash when you’re there; your credit card won’t be charged.) A few hosts might ask you to wire or mail money as a deposit. Because wiring money can come with substantial fees, which you (rather than the sobe host) will incur, it usually works better to mail them a check or travelers check, or pay them through PayPal. Ask your sobe host which options they accept.
You may be approached on the street by someone offering to rent you a room. Some of these sobe hucksters can be very persuasive about luring travelers away from their reservations. But if you’ve already booked a room at a particular place, you owe it to them to show up.
If you like to travel spontaneously, during most of the year it’s possible to find sobe as you go (late July and August are the exceptions). While most of the room-booking trade has moved online, you still may be approached by locals offering you a room as you step off your bus or boat. These are hit-or-miss, but I’ve found some of my favorite sobe in this book this way. Just be clear on how far it is from the main attractions (and beware the European propensity to drastically lowball walking estimates). Otherwise, you can keep an eye out for blue sobe and apartmani signs around town (often there’s a posted phone number you can call to inquire). If you’re in a pinch, travel agencies usually have a line on local rooms and can call around for you (for a 10-20 percent surcharge).
Finding Private Accommodations Online: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and VRBO let you browse a wide range of properties. Many of my handpicked recommendations also rent their rooms on one or more of these sites. Because of the quirky nature of Croatian accommodations, similar places may be shuffled, somewhat arbitrarily, between multiple classifications (“Hotels,” “B&Bs and Inns,” “Specialty Lodging,” and “Vacation Rentals”)—making it difficult to compare apples to apples.
While these sites are a useful resource for finding a bed, they lack the personal vetting you’ll enjoy at the places I recommend in this book. And, at times, I’ve found even some “top-ranked” places on TripAdvisor or Booking.com to be mysteriously lackluster in person. At the end of the day, it makes sense to use both my advice and these sites in a complementary way to find the best fit for your trip.
Slovenian Tourist Farms: Note that sobe aren’t as common or as good a value in Slovenia as they are in Croatia, but the Slovenes have their own budget option: tourist farms (turistične kmetije). At these working farms, you can get a hotelesque room, plus breakfast and dinner, for a surprisingly low cost. For more on tourist farms, see here.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com. To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
Hotels
Croatian hotels, while comfortable enough, tend to be extremely expensive. During the Yugoslav era, gigantic resort hotels were built like crazy up and down the Adriatic (largely to accommodate workers taking advantage of a mandated two-week annual vacation). While almost all of these have been renovated—sometimes to an extremely high standard—they still carry on that tradition of mass tourism: anonymous, sometimes dreary hallways; crowded “beach” access (often on a concrete pad); less-than-enthusiastic staff; a travel-agency desk selling excursions in the lobby; corny live music in the lounge a few nights each week; a seaview aperitif bar; and so on. More money buys you a friendlier, more polished staff, newer decor, and a better location.
The other big downside: Most of these giant hotels are on the outskirts of town—often a long walk (or a taxi or bus ride) from the main sights. Some towns have big hotels that are closer in, but they’re much more expensive.
More recently, there’s been a smattering of much smaller, centrally located boutique hotels—usually eight or ten rooms, often filling historic townhouses tucked right in the heart of the old town. While these can be quite nice, they’re essentially guesthouses (with a slightly higher level of service and amenities than the sobe and apartments). Charging at least as much as the big hotels, these places, with rare exception, are a questionable value. But they can be a decent compromise for those willing to pay a premium for well-located, hotel-type accommodations.
The hotel situation is more straightforward in Slovenia and Bosnia, which have a wider range of small, reasonably priced hotels. While you will find a few communist-era holdover hotels in resorty parts of these countries, they don’t dominate the scene as they do in Croatia.
Accommodations Tips
Arrival and Check-In: If you’re staying at private accommodations or a small hotel, it’s essential to clearly communicate your arrival time, so they can be ready for you. If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. In that case, check your bag safely at your accommodations and dive right into sightseeing.
Most European countries require accommodations to collect your name, nationality, and passport number. At check-in, the receptionist or host might ask for your passport and may keep it for a few hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to give them instead.
Elevators: These are extremely rare in Croatian coastal towns, though some larger hotels may have them. Elevators are more common in Slovenia. Where an elevator does exist, you may have to climb a flight of stairs to reach it (if so, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up).
In Your Room: In private accommodations and some hotels, towels aren’t replaced. The cord that dangles over the tub or shower in big resort hotels is not a clothesline—you pull it if you’ve fallen and can’t get up.
Extra Beds: Some accommodations can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers and sobe hosts can be a great source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy. English works virtually everywhere. Many of my recommended hoteliers (and other business owners) love interacting with my readers and are often happy to help if you have a key trip-planning question that you can’t answer on your own (such as advice on getting into town from the airport, or finding a good local guide or driver to hire). However, keep in mind that lengthy email exchanges can be exhausting and time-consuming—try not to take advantage of their good nature.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly.
If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your accommodations are disappointing, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
Hostels
A hostel provides cheap dorm beds where you sleep alongside strangers for about $25-35 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Family and private rooms are often available.
Hostels are a relatively new concept in Croatia. Official Hostelling International (IYHF) hostels are usually poorly located and institutional, while independent hostels are loosely run, tend to attract a youthful party crowd, and are grungier than the European norm. If you need a cheap bed and aren’t into the party scene, you’ll probably do better for only a little more money by sleeping in basic private accommodations (rooms in private homes, described earlier).
Slovenia has a more appealing range of hostels. For example, one of Europe’s most innovative hostels is Ljubljana’s Celica, a renovated former prison (see here).
In each town, I’ve tried to list the best-established, most reputable hostel options, both independent and official. But this scene is evolving so fast that avid hostelers will do better getting tips from fellow travelers and searching sites such as www.hostels.com, www.hostelworld.com, and www.hostelz.com.
At any hostel, cheap meals are sometimes available, and kitchen facilities are usually provided for do-it-yourselfers. Expect crowds in the summer, snoring, and lots of noisy backpacker bonding in the common room while you’re trying to sleep. Hosteling is ideal for those traveling solo: Prices are per bed, not per room, and you’ll have an instant circle of friends.
Eating
Sampling local foods is a highlight of any trip to this region. And, generally speaking, the cuisine here is good and can be surprisingly diverse. Choosing between strudel and baklava on the same menu, you’re constantly reminded that this is a land where East meets West. Throughout this region, you’ll sink your teeth into lots of tasty Italian-style food (pizzas and pastas), as well as seafood and impressive, underrated local wines. You’ll also find some pan-Balkan elements such as grilled meats and phyllo dough (see the “Balkan Flavors” sidebar on here).
Croatia has a solid culinary scene, and it’s getting better all the time—as more and more chefs are venturing beyond the pizza, pasta, and seafood rut. However, prices are high for what you get. Make it a point to try some dishes that may be hard to find back home, such as fresh octopus salad, “black risotto” (with cuttlefish ink), or a big plate of grilled meats with the spicy condiment ajvar. Your options are widest in the cities (Zagreb in particular), with choices growing more limited as you get farther afield.
Slovenia is a few steps higher on the foodie ladder, typically offering more interesting, better-quality, and better-value meals than Croatia.
Bosnia-Herzegovina also has an excellent (and quite different) culinary tradition, which is also very inexpensive; Sarajevo in particular has an outstanding street food scene. I’ve listed the specific specialties in the introduction to each country in this book.
For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag often leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
Note that many restaurants in coastal Croatia (even in big cities like Split and Dubrovnik) are likely to close entirely off-season. If you’re traveling anytime after October or before May, and you have your heart set on a place, make sure it’s open before making a special trip.
On the flip side, in the peak summer months, many restaurants are booked up—often days ahead (or longer). It’s always smart to reserve. Some places have a booking form on their website, but it’s usually more reliable to call or drop by in person (the staff will generally speak enough English to make a reservation).
RESTAURANT PRICING
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, pizza-slice windows, and bakeries selling burek and other light meals. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food. Many of my listings fall in this category—great for a taste of the local cuisine at a reasonable price.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey, refined cuisine.
At fish restaurants, seafood is often priced by weight—either by kilogram (just over two pounds) or by hectogram (about 3.5 ounces). A one-kilogram portion feeds two hungry people or three light eaters. For tips on ordering seafood, see “Croatian Food” on here.
Although bread, cover, and service charges haven’t traditionally been applied in these countries, a few tourist-oriented restaurants have started to pad their bills with these extra fees. If you’re concerned about this, ask up front.
When you’re in the mood for something halfway between a restaurant and a picnic meal, look for bakeries selling burek (the savory phyllo-dough pastry) and other goodies—one popular and good chain, with locations all over Croatia, is Mlinar. Also look for shops advertising “pizza cut” (pizza by the slice). Many grocery stores sell premade sandwiches, and others might be willing to make one for you from what’s in the deli case.
Tipping: You only need to tip at restaurants that have table service. If you order your food at a counter, don’t tip. At restaurants that have a waitstaff, it’s common to tip after a good meal by rounding up the bill 5-10 percent. My rule of thumb is to estimate about 10 percent, then round down slightly to reach a convenient total. For an €18.50 meal, I pay €20—a tip of €1.50, or about 8 percent. That’s plenty. A 15 percent tip is overly generous, verging on extravagant. At some tourist-oriented restaurants, a 10 or 15 percent “service charge” may be added to your bill, in which case an additional tip is not necessary.
Staying Connected
One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer? More easily and affordably than you might think.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it much as you would at home, following the money-saving tips listed next, such as getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.
USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers data and text, but not voice calls).
Before your trip, research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. When you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) just long enough for the task at hand.
Even with an international-data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype or FaceTime, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off, and change your email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, WhatsApp, FaceTime, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. Just log on to a Wi-Fi network, then connect with any friends, family members, or local contacts who use the same service.
Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls or need a local phone number, or your provider’s international-data rates are expensive, consider buying a SIM card in Europe to replace the one in your (unlocked) US phone or tablet. SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters and some newsstands (you may need to show your passport), and vending machines. If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop.
There are generally no roaming charges when using a European SIM card in other EU countries, but confirm when you buy. Be aware that Bosnia and Montenegro are not in the EU, so roaming charges could be much higher.
Here’s how to dial from anywhere in the US or Europe, using the phone numbers of recommended hotels in Dubrovnik, Croatia (020 429 339) and Ljubljana, Slovenia (01 421 9650) as examples. If a number starts with 0, drop it when dialing from country to country (except when calling Italy).
Phone numbers in this book are presented exactly as you would dial them from a US mobile phone, from any location. For international access, press and hold 0 (zero) to get a + sign, then dial the country code (385 for Croatia, 386 for Slovenia) and phone number.
To call the Dubrovnik hotel, dial +385 20 429 339.
To call the Ljubljana hotel, dial +386 1 421 9650.
Replace + with 011 (US/Canada access code), then dial the country code and phone number.
To call the Dubrovnik hotel from your home landline, dial 011 385 20 429 339.
To call the Ljubljana hotel from your home landline, dial 011 386 1 421 9650.
| Country Codes | |
| Croatia | 385 |
| Slovenia | 386 |
| Bosnia-Herzeg. | 387 |
| Montenegro | 382 |
To call from country to country, replace + with 00 (Europe access code), then dial the country code and phone number.
To call the Dubrovnik hotel from a Slovenian landline, dial 00 385 20 429 339.
To call the Ljubljana hotel from a Croatian landline, dial 00 386 1 421 9650.
To call my US office from a Croatian landline, dial 00 1 425 771 8303.
To call within a country, drop the country code and dial the phone number, including the initial 0. Within the same area code, just dial the local number.
To call the Dubrovnik hotel from a Croatian phone, dial 020 429 339.
To call the Ljulbljana hotel from a Slovenian phone, dial 01 421 9650.
To call the Ljubljana hotel from a number within the same area code, just dial 421 9650.
Local Numbers: European phone numbers and area codes can vary in length and spacing, even within the same country. Mobile phones use separate prefixes.
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: It’s generally not possible to dial European toll or tollfree numbers from a US mobile or landline (although you can sometimes get through using Skype). Look for a direct-dial number instead.
Calling the US from a US Mobile Phone, While Abroad: Dial +1, area code, and number.
More Phoning Help: See HowToCallAbroad.com.
WITHOUT A MOBILE PHONE
It’s less convenient but possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can make calls from your hotel and check email or get online using public computers.
Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls. You can use a prepaid international phone card (relatively rare in Croatia and Slovenia; usually available at newsstands, tobacco shops, and train stations) to call out from your hotel.
Some hotels have public computers in their lobbies for guests to use; otherwise you may find them at public libraries (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). On a European keyboard, use the “Alt Gr” key to the right of the space bar to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy and paste it from a web page.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and search for “Know Before You Go.” The Croatian and Slovenian postal services work fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (DHL.com).
Transportation
Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains, buses, and boats are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers, and those who want to leave the driving to others. Short-hop flights within Europe can creatively connect the dots (especially to skip the long overland journeys between places like Dubrovnik, Sarajevo, and Zagreb). Be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city; with trains, buses, and boats you’re at the mercy of a timetable; flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport and leaves a larger carbon footprint.
Cars are a worthless headache in places like Ljubljana and Dubrovnik. But in some parts of Croatia and Slovenia, a car is helpful, if not essential: Istria (especially the hill towns), the Julian Alps, Logarska Dolina, the Karst, and Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor. A trip into Mostar (and on to Sarajevo) is best by car—allowing you to stop off at interesting places en route—but doable by public transportation. In other areas, a car is unnecessary: Ljubljana, Zagreb, and most of the Dalmatian Coast (Dubrovnik, Split, Hvar, and Korčula). For most trips, the best plan is a combination: Use public transportation in some areas, then strategically rent a car for a day or two in a region that merits it. (I’ve noted which areas are best by car, and offered route tips and arrival instructions in most chapters.)
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
Throughout this book, I’ve suggested whether trains, buses, or boats are better for a particular destination (in the “Connections” section at the end of each chapter). When checking timetables (vozni red), arrivals are dolasci and departures are polasci in Croatian. (In Slovene, arrivals are prihodi and departures are odhodi.) Svaki dan means “daily,” but some transit doesn’t run on Sundays (nedjeljom) or holidays (praznikom). You’ll notice that many posted schedules list departure times, but not the duration of the trip; try asking for this information at the ticket window.
Trains
Trains are ideal for certain routes in Croatia and Slovenia (such as between Ljubljana and Zagreb) and for connecting to Budapest and to some northern countries. But their usefulness is limited, and you’ll find buses, boats, and flights better for most journeys.
Schedules and Tickets: Pick up train schedules from stations as you go. To study ahead on the Web, check www.bahn.com (Germany’s excellent Europe-wide timetable). You can also check www.slo-zeleznice.si for Slovenia, and www.hzpp.hr for Croatia. Buy tickets at the train station (or on board, if the station is unattended)—you rarely need a reservation.
Rail Passes: While rail passes can be a good deal in some parts of Europe, they usually aren’t as useful in Croatia or Slovenia. Point-to-point tickets are affordable and often the better option. Each country has its own Eurail pass, covering 3 to 8 days of travel within a month, or is covered by the Eurail Global Pass for most of Europe. Again, none of these passes is likely to save you much money, but if a pass matches your itinerary, give it a look and crunch the numbers. For options and prices on pertinent Eurail passes, see www.ricksteves.com/rail.
Buses
Buses often take you where trains don’t—including anywhere south of Split (where Croatia’s train tracks end). Even on some routes that are served by trains, buses can be a better option. For instance, Ljubljana and Lake Bled are connected by both train and bus—but the bus station is right in the town center of Bled, while the train station is a few miles away. Buses can even be convenient for connecting to islands (by ferry, of course).
Confusingly, a single bus route can be operated by a variety of companies, making it difficult to find comprehensive schedules. Your first stop is https://getbybus.com, which includes many (but not necessarily all) bus connections in Croatia, and many in neighboring countries, and lets you book tickets online (for a small fee). In addition, these online-timetable sites are helpful: www.autobusni-kolodvor.com for Croatia and www.ap-ljubljana.si for Slovenia. And a separate company, called Flixbus, runs additional buses in some areas—especially connecting Slovenia and northern Croatia to international destinations—that won’t show up on any other site (www.flixbus.com).
For smaller towns, the TI can also help you sort through your options. If your trip involves a connection at an intermediate station, don’t be surprised if it’s difficult to get the schedule details for your onward journey. Be patient, and try calling that town’s TI (or the TI or bus station at your final destination) for details.
Prices vary slightly among companies, even for identical journeys. In high season, popular routes can sell out—sometimes well ahead. Especially if there are limited connections on your route, it’s wise to book your tickets at least a day or two before you travel. Online booking has become standard; typically, you’ll be emailed a QR code that you can show on your phone to board the bus. It’s still possible to buy tickets in person at the station, but you may have to wait in line.
Buses have some overhead bag storage on board, but you’ll likely check your big bag under the bus (for a small extra cost).
If you’re headed south along the coast, sitting on the right side comes with substantially better scenery (sit on the left for northbound buses). When choosing a seat, also take the direction of the sun into consideration.
Bus routes that cross borders can be subject to significant delays during peak times. The most notable example is the Montenegro border south of Dubrovnik, which is very popular with day-trippers heading to the Bay of Kotor. If traveling at busy times (midmorning) in the peak summer months, don’t expect the estimated trip durations to be exactly right (or ask around for advice about which departures might be less affected by border lines).
Shared Transfers
As an alternative to buses in Slovenia and northern Croatia, consider the Ljubljana-based GoOpti shared transfer service. You’ll sign up on their website for an intercity transfer, and they’ll try to find other travelers with similar plans, then tell you the time of departure. You’ll all load into the same van and split the cost (and carbon footprint) of the ride. It’s affordable, efficient, and very convenient. Locals swear by this service, which can fill in gaps in the public-transportation network—such as getting from Piran, Slovenia, to Rovinj, Croatia; or traveling from downtown Ljubljana to the Venice airport to catch a flight (www.goopti.com; for details, see here).
Boats
All along the Croatian coast, slow car ferries and inexpensive speedy catamarans shuttle tourists between major coastal cities and quiet island towns. Boats run often in summer (June-Sept), but frequency drops sharply off-season.
A ferry (trajekt) takes both passengers and cars; though pokey, it can run in almost any weather. The number of cars is limited, but there’s almost unlimited deck space for walk-on passengers. Watching the ferry crew scurrying around to load and unload cars and trucks onto their boat—especially if it’s a small one—is a ▲▲▲ Croatian experience.
Increasingly, traditional ferries are being phased out in favor of much faster, passenger-only catamarans. These are efficient, but they have to slow down (or sometimes can’t run at all) in bad weather. Catamarans are smaller, with limited seats, so they tend to sell out quickly. Because of the high speeds, you’ll generally have to stay inside the boat while en route, rather than being outside on the deck.
If you’re island-hopping in Dalmatia, you’ll choose between boats operated by three companies. The biggest is the state-run company called Jadrolinija (yah-droh-LEE-nee-yah, www.jadrolinija.hr, +385 51 666 111). Jadrolinija has a virtual monopoly on the big car-ferry routes, and also runs some handy high-speed catamarans. Other catamarans are operated by Krilo (www.krilo.hr) and TP Line (www.tp-line.hr). Schedules can change dramatically from season to season, and the three companies operate independent of each other. I suggest researching your options on https://getbyferry.com. (Local TIs can also be helpful.) Then, once you’ve settled on a specific departure, go to that company’s website to book your ticket.
Each company’s website allows for easy online booking. If you’d rather book your tickets in person, each company also has a ticket kiosk or is partnered with a local travel agency that sells their tickets. (However, especially in smaller towns, these may be open only sporadically.) You’ll be competing with lots of other travelers for a few precious seats on the most convenient catamarans. Especially during busy times, it’s wise to book at least a day or two ahead—or even earlier for popular routes in peak times.
Because all boats have open seating, it’s smart to show up 30-60 minutes before departure time to get a good seat. Reservations are not necessary for walk-on passengers on car ferries; you can almost always find a seat on the deck or in the onboard café.
Boat rides are affordable for foot passengers. A short hop, such as from Split to the island of Hvar or Korčula, costs around $16-20 on a fast catamaran (less on a slow ferry). For a longer trip, such as from Split to Dubrovnik, figure $50.
On some Jadrolinija ferries, it’s possible to reserve a space for a car. Other ferries don’t take reservations and can fill up quickly at busy times. Because volumes flex with the season, the local TI is your best resource for advice on how early to get in line. On some islands, the car-ferry port is a long drive from the main tourist town (for example, Vela Luka on Korčula Island is a one-hour drive from Korčula town; Stari Grad on Hvar Island is a 25-minute drive from Hvar town).
You can buy overpriced, low-quality food and drinks on board most boats. Bring your own snacks or a picnic instead.
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Most European taxis are reliable and cheap. In many cities, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. If you like ride-booking services such as Uber, their apps usually work in Croatia just like they do in the US: Request a car on your mobile phone (connected to Wi-Fi or data), and the fare is automatically charged to your credit card. Uber is not active in Slovenia or Bosnia.
RENTING A CAR
It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (AutoEurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper AutoEurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.
In this region, I prefer to connect long distances by train or bus, then rent cars for a day or two where they’re most useful. But be aware that some companies have a minimum rental period (generally three days); you can keep the car for a shorter time, but you’ll pay for the minimum period anyway. If you want the car for just a day or two, try to find a company that allows short rentals.
Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
Rental Costs and Considerations
If you book well in advance, expect to pay $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. To save money on fuel, request a diesel car.
Manual vs. Automatic: Almost all rental cars in Europe are manual by default—and cars with a stick shift are generally cheaper. If you need an automatic, reserve one specifically. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.
Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car-rental websites.
Choosing Pick-up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs, at a distant resort hotel, or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.
Have the Right License: If you’re renting a car, bring your driver’s license. In Slovenia, Croatia, and Bosnia, you’re also technically required to have an International Driving Permit—an official translation of your license (sold at AAA offices for about $20 plus the cost of two passport-type photos; see AAA.com). How this is enforced varies: I’ve never needed one.
Crossing Borders in a Rental Car: Be warned that international trips—say, picking up in Ljubljana and dropping off in Dubrovnik—while efficient, can be expensive (see “The Rental-Car Conundrum” sidebar for ways around this).
Always tell your car-rental company exactly which countries you’ll be entering. Some companies levy extra insurance fees for trips taken in certain countries with certain cars (such as BMWs, Mercedes, and convertibles). Or the company may prohibit driving the car in off-the-beaten-track destinations, such as Bosnia-Herzegovina. As you cross borders, you may need to show the proper paperwork, such as proof of insurance (called a “green card”). Double-check with your rental agent that you have all the documentation you need before you drive off.
Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.
Car Insurance Options
When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (free, but more complicated), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW costs $15-30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works.
If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical option. For example, Travel Guard (TravelGuard.com [URL inactive]) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.
For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.
Navigation Options
If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.
Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—also have offline route directions, but you’ll need mobile data access for current traffic. For more on using a mapping app without burning through data, see “Using Your Phone in Europe,” earlier.
GPS Devices: On newer cars, you can plug your phone directly into a USB port (or connect it with Bluetooth) to display GPS directions on the car’s built-in screen, using Google Maps or another mapping program. But if you want a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car (about $20/day, or sometimes included—ask). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Make sure you know how to use the device—and that the language is set to English—before you drive off.
Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always have a paper map—ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at a local gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.
DRIVING
Drivers should be prepared for twisty seaside and mountain roads, wonderful views, and plenty of tempting stopovers.
Road Rules: Seat belts are required, and two beers under those belts are enough to land you in jail. Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries—including all those in this book—require headlights to be turned on at all times, and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light, unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules or check the “International Travel” section of the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn About Your Destination” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”).
Fuel: Gas is expensive—often about $6-8 per gallon. Diesel cars are more common in Europe than back home, so be sure you know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up (diesel is dizel in both languages). Some pumps are color-coded: Unleaded pumps are green and labeled “E,” whereas diesel pumps (often yellow or black) are labeled “B.”
Tolls: Croatia and Slovenia are crisscrossed by an impressive network of expressways (autocesta in Croatian, avtocesta in Slovene). I don’t call them “freeways” because they’re not—you’ll pay to use them.
In Croatia, you’ll pay about €0.07 per kilometer—so a 100-kilometer trip (60 miles), which lasts about an hour, costs approximately €7. You’ll take a toll-ticket when you enter the expressway, then submit it when you get off (but don’t lose your ticket, or you’ll pay the maximum).
Slovenia has done away with its tollbooth system. Instead, drivers who use Slovenia’s expressways are required to buy a toll sticker, called a vignette (Slovene: vinjeta, veen-YEH-tah; €15/week, €30/month). Vignettes are sold at gas stations, post offices, and some newsstands. Your rental car might already come with one—ask. A few of my readers have reported waiting too long to buy one and getting slapped with a €150 fine, plus €15 for the sticker. If you’re coming into Slovenia on an expressway, watch for vinjeta signs at gas stations as you approach the border, and purchase the sticker before you cross. You can also buy an e-vinjeta online (https://evinjeta.dars.si); you’ll enter your rental car’s license plate number instead of displaying an actual sticker.
Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro both have limited expressway networks; to use them, you’ll pay tolls as you go (as in Croatia).
Road Conditions: Croatian, Slovenian, and even Bosnian roads are extremely well engineered and typically in excellent repair. (The less said about Montenegrin roads, the better.) Croatia’s primary artery is its speedy A-1 expressway, which runs from Zagreb all the way south to Split; farther south, you’ll follow a well-maintained (but slower) two-lane highway to Dubrovnik. For details on expressways in Croatia, see www.hak.hr; for Slovenia, see www.dars.si. Secondary roads can be very twisty—especially along the coast or through the mountains. If you get way off the beaten track, you might find gravel. Locals poetically describe these as “white roads.” (Get it? No asphalt.) Keep a close eye out for bikers. You’ll see scads of them on mountain roads, struggling to earn a thrilling downhill run.
Maps and Signage: A good map is essential. While most roads are numbered, the numbers rarely appear on signs. Instead, do as the Croatians and Slovenes do, and navigate by town name—at every major intersection, directional signs point to nearby towns and cities. The color of the sign tells you what type of road you’re approaching: Yellow is a normal road; blue (in Croatia) or green (in Slovenia) indicates that the route is by expressway. Brown indicates a cultural or natural attraction (such as a castle or a cave). On expressways, each tunnel and bridge is identified and labeled with its length in meters. Learn the universal road signs. As you approach any town, follow the Centar signs (usually also signed with a bull’s-eye symbol).
Parking: Get parking advice from your hotel, or look for the blue-and-white P signs. Street parking marked with blue lines must be paid for (look for pay-and-display parking meters, or signs explaining how to pay on your phone). Parking is a costly headache in big cities. You’ll pay about $15-25 a day to park safely (and astronomically more than that near Dubrovnik’s Old Town). Rental-car theft can happen in cities, so ask your accommodations for advice. Many coastal towns—such as Rovinj and Piran—are off-limits to cars...unless you’re sleeping in the city center, in which case you may be granted permission to drive in just long enough to drop off your bags, then return to the parking lot outside town. Ask your hotelier about this in advance.
FLIGHTS
Croatia is a little country with long distances (for example, it’s at least a seven-hour drive from Zagreb to Dubrovnik), so flying can save you a lot of time. Flying also makes sense if you’re going to Sarajevo, which is relatively far from other destinations in this book but easily connected to Zagreb by daily flights on Croatia Airlines.
Croatia’s national carrier, Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.com), offers both domestic flights and flights to most major European capitals. Many of these seats are sold at discounted promotional rates—provided you book far enough ahead.
To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: Kayak is the top site for flights to and within Europe, easy-to-use Google Flights has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.
Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see our hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at RickSteves.com/hub-airports.
Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet or Ryanair. If you’re not sure who flies to your destination, check its airport’s website for a list of carriers. Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and a larger carbon footprint than a train or bus.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
Resources from Rick Steves
Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com
My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; my travel blog; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.
Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chime in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/forums).
Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).
Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).
Rick Steves’ Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More
Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year about 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to get our tour catalog, visit RickSteves.com/tours or call us at +1 425 608 4217.
Books: This book is just one of many in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks; Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides); Pocket guides (full-color little books on big cities); “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides); and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows and Travel Talks: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year (watch full episodes at my website for free). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (Classroom.RickSteves.com). And to raise your travel I.Q., check out the video versions of our popular classes (covering most European countries as well as travel skills, packing smart, cruising, tech for travelers, European art, and travel as a political act—RickSteves.com/travel-talks).
Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced dozens of free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, see here.
Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.
Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content on several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a weekly selection of video clips from my public television show, my audio tours of Europe’s top sights, and live recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/watch-read-listen/audio/podcasts).