INDEX
| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| R | S | T | U |
| V | W | Y | Z |
A
Addresses, locating, in Croatia: 36; Hvar, 256; Zagreb, 55
Adventure Park (Bled): 670
Agroturizams: 164, 404, 582, 729
Airbnb: 24, 367, 830–831, 832, 837
Air-conditioning, in hotels: 838
Airports: Bovec, 717; Dubrovnik, 314–315; Ljubljana, 651–652, 679; Pula, 142–143; Sarajevo, 523–524; Split, 196; Zagreb, 58
Air tours: Bled, 660; Bovec, 717
Ajda: 707–708
All Saints’ Church (Korčula): 296
Almanac: Bosnia-Herzegovina, 464–465; Croatia, 34–35; Montenegro, 420–421; Slovenia, 580–581
Alpine Cheese Museum (Kobarid): 726
Alps: See Julian Alps
Ambulance: 817
American Gardens (Opatija): 184–185
Amphitheater, in Pula: 144–147
Amphorae: about, 147
Angiolina Park (Opatija): 184
Apartment rentals: 830–831, 833–837. See also specific destinations
Apicultural Museum (Radovljica): 687–691
Apparition Hill (Međugorje): 516–517
Apps: 26, 845; language translation, 28, 819; maps and navigation, 826, 857; messaging, 845; payment, 821–822; Sarajevo, 526; sightseeing, 827–828; user reviews, 831
Aquariums: Dubrovnik, 352; Piran, 783
Archaeological museums: 154, 215, 247–248, 514, 561, 621, 765
Arch of Sergius (Pula): 152
Arms Collection (Ptuj Castle): 752
Ars Aevi Bridge (Sarajevo): 544
Arsenal (Dubrovnik): 337
Arsenal (Hvar): 257
Art Park (Zagreb): 64
Arts and Crafts Museum (Zagreb): 81–82
Aščinica: 569
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 864
Austro-Hungarian Tunnels (Pula): 154–155
Avaz Twist Tower (Sarajevo): 545, 565
B
Babine Kuće: 370, 372, 409, 412, 414
Bačvice Beach (Split): 223, 226
Badija Island: 297
Balota Beach (Rovinj): 129
Banje Beach (Dubrovnik): 338, 360–361, 366
Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 26. See also Money
Ban’s Palace (Zagreb): 66–67
Baščaršija (Sarajevo): 550–552, 568
Baščaršija Mosque (Sarajevo): 530
Basilica of St. Mary Formosa (Pula): 150
Batana boats, in Rovinj: 123, 127–128, 132
Battle of Neretva: 574
Bay of Cavtat: 425
Bay of Kotor: 15, 380, 423–438, 504; map, 426–427. See also Kotor
Bay of Mali Ston: 242, 397–398
Bay of Portoč: 385–386
BBI Centar (Sarajevo): 538, 576
Beaches: Bled Lake, 669–670; Budva Riviera, 456–458; Croatia, overview, 32; Dubrovnik, 338, 360–362; Hvar, 263–265; Koločep, 387; Korčula, 296–297, 299; Lokrum Island, 385; Lopud, 387–388; Lumbarda, 298; Mljet, 412–413; Opatija, 181, 183, 185; Piran, 784; Rovinj, 129–130; Šipan, 388; Split, 223; Šunj Beach, 361–362, 387–388; Sveti Stefan, 456–457; Vinogradišce Cove, 270
Beekeeping: 582, 654, 668, 670–671, 687–691
Beer: 85, 472, 572, 590, 634, 635, 648
Bene Beach (Split): 223
Benedictine Convent (Hvar): 259, 261
Big Collapsed Valley: 764
Big Waterfall (Plitvice Lakes): 100
Bijela: 430
Biking (bike rentals): Bled, 657, 660, 685; Brijuni Islands, 158; Korčula, 298; Ljubljana, 603; Logarska Dolina, 734; Mljet, 411, 414; Piran, 777; Radovljica, 685; Rovinj, 130; Sečovlje, 789–790; Split, 197; Vintgar Gorge, 681; Zagreb, 60
Bišćević Turkish House (Mostar): 493–494
Biševo: 224
Bishop’s Palace (Dubrovnik): 349–350
Blato: 300
Bled: 653–679; eating, 676–678; helpful hints, 657; maps, 655, 658–659; nightlife, 672; orientation, 654–655; planning tips, 654; sights/activities, 662–672; sleeping, 673–676; tourist information, 655–656; tours, 661–662; transportation, 656–657, 657, 660, 678–679, 714–715
Bled, Lake: 17, 653–654, 662–670; boating, 663, 665, 669; maps, 655, 682–683; sights/activities, 662–670; swimming, 669–670; tours, 661–662
Bled Castle: 666–669
Blejski Otok: 664–666
Blue Cave (Biševo): 224
Blue Lagoon (Split): 224
Boating: Bled Lake, 663, 665, 669; Bohinj Lake, 697; Rovinj, 128–129. See also Kayaking; Rafting
Boat travel: 852–853; map, 850–851; Brijuni Islands, 158; Cavtat, 389; Dubrovnik, 314, 377–378, 383–384; Elaphite Islands, 386; Hvar, 196, 237, 238, 253, 257, 279–280; Istria, 120; Koper, 791–792; Korčula, 237, 238–239, 284, 297, 305–307; Kotor, 424, 447; Ljubljana, 604; Lokrum, 385; Mljet, 237, 239, 306, 377, 414–415; Our Lady of the Rocks, 435; Pakleni Islands, 269–270; Piran, 788; Plitvice Lakes, 98–99; Rijeka, 190; Rovinj, 123, 128–129; Split, 196, 223–224, 235, 236, 237; Trogir, 243. See also Jadrolinija ferry; Krilo; Nona Ana
Bogomils: 465–466, 495, 514, 525, 546–547
Bohinj, Lake: 695–699
Boka Waterfall: 712
Bol: 224
Boninovo Bay: 311; sleeping, 372
Books, recommended: 867
Bora, the: 185–186
Border crossings: 818, 855; Croatia, 504, 505; Montenegro, 418, 422
Bosnaseum (Mostar): 487–488
Bosnia-Herzegovina: 6, 460–576; at a glance, 15, 380; almanac, 464–465; cuisine, 470–472; history, 464–470, 497, 807–811; map, 461; natural wonders, 8; overview, 460–472; tours, 475. See also specific destinations
Bosnia-Herzegovina Historical Museum (Sarajevo): 545, 559–561
Bosniak Institute (Sarajevo): 535
Bosnia Main Coastal Road: 505–507
Bosnian Central Bank (Sarajevo): 538
Bosnian coffee: 460–462, 472, 484, 531, 569
Bosnian Jewish Museum (Sarajevo): 534, 552–554
Bosnian Parliament (Sarajevo): 542
Bosnian Presidency (Sarajevo): 539
Bovec: 712, 715–720; activities, 716–717; eating, 719–720; sleeping, 717–719
Braće Fejića (Mostar): 495–496
Bradina: 575
Brijuni Declaration (1956): 159
Brna: 299
Broz, Josip: See Tito
Brusa Bezistan Covered Market (Sarajevo): 546–547
Budgeting: 23–24
Budget tips: See Money-saving tips
Budva: 456
Budva Riviera: 380–381, 455–458
Bukovac (Vlaho) House (Cavtat): 390–391
Bulevar (Mostar): 481–482
Buna River: 510
Burek: 24, 156, 471, 520, 530, 568, 587, 781, 842
Burglars’ Tower (Zagreb): 64
Burnum: 246
Buses: 849, 852; map, 850–851. See also specific destinations
Business hours: 818–819
Butchers’ Bridge (Ljubljana): 613–614
Buža (Dubrovnik): 338, 364–365
Buža Gate (Dubrovnik): 311
C
Cable cars: See Funiculars
Cabs: 854. See also specific destinations
Café de Alma (Mostar): 484
Café Uliks (Pula): 152
Čara: 299
Cardo (Split): 208–209
Car insurance: 855–857
Carnival (Ptuj): See Kurentovanje
Carnival Masks Collection (Ptuj Castle): 748
Car rentals: 23, 854–855. See also specific destinations
Car travel (driving): 857–862; best two-week trip, 20–21; distances and time, 858–859; road signs, 861. See also specific destinations
Castles: Bled Castle, 666–669; Ljubljana Castle, 605, 614, 624–626; Predjama Castle, 771–772; Ptuj Castle, 747–752; Velenje Castle, 743–744
Catamarans: See Boat travel
Catholic Cathedral of the Sacred Heart (Sarajevo): 534–535, 555
Cave del Predil: 715
Caves (caverns), in Slovenia: 761–765, 768–771
Cavtat: 381, 388–393, 425; sights/activities, 389–393
Cell phones: 26, 843–845. See also Apps
Center Rinka (Sol Solčava): 738
Central (Bosniak) Mostar: 475, 478, 480–496; eating, 502–503; map, 476–477
Cetina River: 224
Cetinje: 454–455
Cetinje Ethnographic Museum: 454
Cetinje Historical Museum: 454
Cetinje Monastery: 454–455
Changing of the Guard (Zagreb): 59–60
Cheese: 8, 47, 69, 77, 86, 471, 726, 743
Christmas Market (Zagreb): 59
Church of the Annunciation (Opatija): 184
Church of the Holy Spirit (Podolševa): 737
Church of the Holy Trinity (Budva): 456
Church of the Sacred Hearts (Pula): 151
Čilipi: 392
Ciril-Metodov trg (Ljubljana): 614–615, 638
City Museum of Ljubljana: 605, 621
Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 864
Clothing sizes: 869
Cobblers’ Bridge (Ljubljana): 619
Congress Square (Ljubljana): 623–624, 647
Contemporary History Museum (Ljubljana): 605, 633–635
Cooperative Bank (Ljubljana): 610–611
Čopova (Ljubljana): 607
Coppersmiths’ Street (Mostar): 487
Coppersmiths’ Street (Sarajevo): 529–530
Costs of trip: 23
Croata (Split): 211
Croatia: 5, 30–415; at a glance, 12–14; almanac, 34–35; cuisine, 43–48, 114; helpful hints, 36; history, 36–41, 805–807; map, 31; natural wonders, 7; overview, 30–49. See also specific destinations
Croatia Airlines: 58, 378, 862
Croatian Coast: 7, 30–31, 110–415; Istria, 110–181; map, 31; weather, 185–186. See also specific destinations
Croatian language: 48–50; restaurant phrases, 52; survival phrases, 51
Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Zagreb): 65, 70–73
Croatian National Theater (Split): 210
Croatian Parliament (Zagreb): 66
Crooked Bridge (Mostar): 483
Cruises: See Boat travel
Cuisine: 840–843; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 470–472; Croatia, 43–48, 114; Slovenia, 587–590, 644, 677
Cultural and Educational Center Kaštel (Motovun): 167–168
Currency and exchange: 820, 823; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 465, 479, 823; Croatia, 34, 823; Montenegro, 421, 823; Slovenia, 580, 823
Customs regulations: 825–826
Cyril and Methodius Serbian Orthodox Church (Ljubljana): 605, 632–633
Cyril and Methodius Square (Ljubljana): 614–615
D
Dalmatian Coast: 193–280; bus travel, 139, 240; car travel, 108–109, 140, 190–192, 196, 240–242, 307; map, 238–239. See also Dubrovnik; Hvar; Split
Dante Square (Pula): 151
Dayton Peace Accords: 469, 537, 810
Debeli Brijeg: 422
Diocletian: 35, 37, 126, 193, 200–201; Palace (Split), 200–209
Diocletian Days (Split): 867
Discounts: 819. See also Money-saving tips
Dominican Monastery Museum (Dubrovnik): 323, 331, 350–351
Dornk Excursion Farm: 671–672
Dovje: 703
Drače: 402–403
Dragojević, Oliver: 33
Dragon Bridge (Ljubljana): 614
Drava River: 747
Driving: See Car travel
Držić, Marin: 334
Dubrovnik: 14, 308–378; at a glance, 322–323; arrival in, 314–316; eating, 373–377; entertainment, 363–366; excursion areas, 379–415; helpful hints, 316–317; history of, 308–310, 332–333, 747, 807; maps, 312–313, 324–325, 368–369, 382–383; nightlife, 364–366; orientation, 311; planning tips, 310; shopping, 362–363; sights/activities, 338–362; sleeping, 366–372; tourist information, 311–314; tours, 320–321; transportation, 314–316, 317–319, 377–378, 383–384; walking tour, 322–338
Dubrovnik Aquarium: 352
Dubrovnik Bell Tower: 328, 330–331, 344
Dubrovnik Cathedral: 323, 335, 348–349
Dubrovnik City Hall: 334
Dubrovnik City Walls: 317, 322, 331, 339–345
Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery Museum: 323, 331, 350–351
Dubrovnik Ethnographic Museum: 323, 354–355
Dubrovnik Franciscan Monastery Museum: 322, 327–328, 345–347
Dubrovnik Maritime Museum: 344, 351–352
Dubrovnik Red History Museum: 322, 359–360
“Dubrovnik School”: 350–351
Dubrovnik Serbian Orthodox Church: 323, 353
Dubrovnik Summer Festival: 316, 363, 866
Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra: 364
Dubrovnik Synagogue Museum: 323, 352
E
Eating: 840–843; budgeting, 23; money-saving tips, 24; tipping, 824, 842–843. See also specific destinations
Economy: Bosnia-Herzegovina, 465; Croatia, 34; Montenegro, 421; Slovenia, 580
Elaphite Islands: 381, 386–388
Electricity: 819
Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Split): 214
Embassies: 545, 576, 631, 817–818
Emperor’s Mosque (Sarajevo): 533
Environmental footprint (going green): 819
ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System): 816–817
Euphemia, Saint: 126–127
Euphrasian Basilica (Poreč): 161–162
Exchange rate: 820
F
Fairytale Forest (Logarska Dolina): 739
Fantazam (Hvar): 266
Farming in the Northern Valleys: 735, 737
Farm stays: See Agroturizams
Ferhadija Mosque (Sarajevo): 534
Ferhadija Street (Sarajevo): 534–537
Ferries: See Boat travel; Jadrolinija ferry
Festivals: 865–867. See also specific festivals
Fijakers, in Bled: 660
Films, recommended: 867–868
Firšt Gostišče: 739
Flags: Bosnia-Herzegovina, 465; Croatia, 35; Montenegro, 421; Slovenia, 581
Folk dancing: 364, 392. See also Moreška sword dances, in Korčula
Food: See Ajvar; Beekeeping; Burek; Cheese; Cuisine; Eating; Markets; Pršut; Truffles; and specific destinations
Fort Kaštel (Pula): 154–155
Fort of St. John (Dubrovnik): 337, 340
Fort of St. Lawrence (Dubrovnik): 317, 326, 343
Foundry Museum (Dubrovnik): 342, 345
Franciscan Church of Sts. Peter and Paul (Mostar): 480–481
Franciscan Monastery (Hvar): 261–262
Franciscan Monastery Museum (Dubrovnik): 322, 327–328, 345–347
Franz Ferdinand, Archduke: 468, 527, 530, 551, 568, 576; assassination site, in Sarajevo, 533, 549–550, 551
French Revolution Square (Ljubljana): 622–623
Froggyland (Split): 215
Funiculars (cable cars): Dubrovnik, 356; Knin Cable Car (Bovec), 717; Ljubljana, 614, 625; Sarajevo, 565–566; Velika Planina, 742; Vogel Mountain Cable Car, 697–698; Zagreb, 64
G
Galerija Emporium (Ljubljana): 607, 610
Galovački Buk: 102
Galovac Lake: 102–103
Game of Thrones: 30, 43, 203, 215, 318, 385, 394, 425, 868; in Dubrovnik, 318–319, 323, 336, 343; guided tours, 320
Game of Thrones Museum (Split): 215
Garibaldi, Giuseppe: 122
Gate of Hercules (Pula): 153
Gazi Husrev-Bey Bezistan (Sarajevo): 532
Gazi Husrev-Bey Biblioteka (Sarajevo): 532
Gazi Husrev-Bey Mosque (Sarajevo): 531–532, 548–549
Geography: Bosnia-Herzegovina, 464; Croatia, 34; Montenegro, 420; Slovenia, 580
Ghost tours, in Zagreb: 60
Glagolitic alphabet: 80, 180–181
Glagolitic Lane: 180–181
Golden Cape (Rovinj): 129–130
Golden Gate (Split): 209
GoOpti: 89, 139–140, 157, 649, 651, 679, 787–788, 852
Gornja Ploča: 108
Gornji Ugao Tower (Dubrovnik): 345
Goveđari: 409
Government: Croatia, 34–35; Slovenia, 580–581. See also Parliament
Gozd Martuljek: 703–704
Gradec (Zagreb): 55, 64–67; eating, 88
Gradinje: eating, 179–180
Gradinsko Lake: 102
Gradska Kavana (Dubrovnik): 334, 377
Gradska Kavana (Split): 211
Grajski Trg (Maribor): 759
“Grand Canyon of Soča:” 710–711
Grand Hotel Union (Ljubljana): 610
Grbavica (Sarajevo): 544
Great Brijuni Island: 157–161
Great Kozjak Waterfall: 726
Great Lake (Mljet): 409, 412–413
Great Land Gate (Korčula): 282, 286–287
Green Cave (Split): 224
Green Horseshoe (Zagreb): 55, 81–82
Green Market (Split): 211–212
Greeting to the Sun (Zadar): 248–249
Grisia Street (Rovinj): 125–126
Gruda: 393
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 863–864; updates, 27, 863
Gunduličeva Poljana (Dubrovnik): 335–336
H
Habsburg Quarter (Sarajevo): 534–537, 552–558
Hajduk Split: 197
Hammam Museum (Mostar): 483–484
“Hammam Square” (Mostar): 483–484, 499
Hauptmann House (Ljubljana): 607
Hemingway, Ernest: 585, 700, 709, 720, 724
Herceg Etno Selo: 518
Herceg Novi: 427–428
Herzegovina Museum (Mostar): 491–492
Hiking: Bled, 662–664, 666; Buje, 173; Dubrovnik, 356; Hvar, 263–265, 266, 268–269; Kobarid, 726, 727; Koločep, 387; Kotor, 446–447; Logarska Dolina, 734, 738; Lokrum, 385–386; Marjan Peninsula, 222–223; Mljet, 408, 414; Motovun, 165–168; Mount Triglav, 706; Pakleni, 270; Plitvice Lakes National Park, 99–103; Samobor, 90; Šipan, 388; Split, 222–223; Velika Planina, 743; Vintgar Gorge, 680–681, 684; Vogel Mountain, 697–698
Hill towns of the Istrian interior: 162–181; map, 163
Hiša Franko (near Kobarid): 730
Historical Museum of Bosnia-Herzegovina (Sarajevo): 545, 559–561
History: 793–815; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 464–470, 497; Croatia, 36–41; Montenegro, 418–419, 429, 436; Slovenia, 583–587
Holidays: 865–867
Holy Trinity Church (Budva): 456
Homeland War Museum (Dubrovnik): 357–358
Honey: See Beekeeping
Hostels: overview, 840. See also specific destinations
Hostel Celica (Ljubljana): 602, 637, 643
Hotels: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Hotel Europe (Sarajevo): 534, 573
Hotel Kaštel (Motovun): 167
House of Istrian Olive Oil (Pula): 155–156
House of the Batana Boat (Rovinj): 123, 127–128, 132
House of the Surgeon (Korčula): 288
Hvar: 12, 14, 250–280; eating, 276–279; helpful hints, 253, 256; maps, 254–255, 270–271; nightlife, 271–273; orientation, 252; planning tips, 251–252; shopping, 271; sights/activities, 257–271; sleeping, 273–276; tourist information, 252; tours, 256–257; transportation, 196, 237, 238, 252–253, 279–280
Hvar Benedictine Convent: 259, 261
Hvar Fortress: 262–263
Hvar Franciscan Monastery: 261–262
Hvar Summer Festival: 253
Hvar Theater: 260–261
I
Icon Museum (Dubrovnik): 353
Icon Museum (Korčula): 288, 296
Idrija: 713
Igalo: 427
Illyrians: 36–37, 215, 429, 430, 438, 446, 447, 465, 512–513, 583, 596, 793–794
Institut Dr. Simo Miloševic (Igalo): 427
Internet security: 845
Iron Forging Museum (Kropa): 693
Islam in Bosnia: 466–467, 488–491, 527
Istria: 12, 110–181; at a glance, 112; cuisine, 114; map, 111; planning tips, 111, 113; transportation, 113. See also specific destinations
Istria, Archaeological Museum of (Pula): 154
Istrian hill towns: 162–181; map, 163
Istrian Olive Oil, House of (Pula): 155–156
Istrian wine: 114, 176–177; Brtonigla, 172; Kabola, 176–177; Motovun, 165–166; Rovinj, 131
Italian Cultural Center (Motovun): 167
Italian Mausoleum (Kobarid): 723–725
Italy: 124; boat travel, 120, 236, 378, 788; Predel Pass, 714–715; train travel, 236
Itineraries: Bosnia-Herzegovina, 15; Croatia, 12–14; designing your own, 18–22; Dubrovnik, 310; Hvar, 251–252; Istria, 111, 113; Korčula, 282; Lake Bled, 654; Ljubljana, 596–598; Logarska Dolina, 732–733; Maribor, 745–746; Mljet, 407–409; Montenegro, 15, 421–422; Mostar, 474–475; Piran, 773–774; Plitvice Lakes, 93–94; Ptuj, 745–746; Pula, 142; Sarajevo, 520; Slovenia, 17; Split, 194; Zagreb, 54–55
Ivan Meštrović Atelier (Zagreb): 67, 74–75
Ivan Planina: 575
Ivan Tunnel: 575
Ivica Matošević: 177
J
Jablanica: 574
Jablanica, Lake: 575
Jadrolinija ferry: 852; Dubrovnik, 314, 377–378, 383; Hvar, 237, 238, 253, 279–280; Italy, 236; Korčula, 237, 238–239, 305–306; Rijeka, 190; Split, 196, 235, 236, 237
Jajce Barracks (Sarajevo): 566
Jamnik Viewpoint Church: 694–695
Janjina: 403
Janković, Zoran: 587, 597, 613
Jasna Lake: 706
Jelačić Square (Zagreb): 55, 61–63; eating, 86–87
Jerolim: 269
Jesenice: 702–703
Ježinac Beach (Split): 223
John Paul II, Pope: 357, 535, 539, 555, 615, 616, 687
Julian Alps: 17, 700–730; map, 704–705; self-guided driving tour, 702–715
Jupiter’s Temple (Split): 207–208
Juraj Šporer Art Pavilion (Opatija): 184
K
Kabola: 176–177
Kajtaz House (Mostar): 494
Kamenari: 430
Kamenari-Lepetani Ferry: 437–438
Kamerlengo Fortress (Trogir): 244
Kaminška Bistrica: 742–743
Kanal: 713
Kaptol (Zagreb): 55, 69, 82; map, 61; market, 69, 76–77, 86
Karađozbeg Mosque (Mostar): 495
Karadžić, Radovan: 525, 537, 540, 542–543, 556–557, 808, 810–813
Karampana (Kotor): 444
Karst region: 8, 17, 760–772; map, 762–763; sleeping and eating, 760–761
Kasich, John: 35
Kašjuni Beach (Split): 223
Kaštelet Chapel (Split): 221–222
Kayaking: 224, 297, 362, 408, 411–412, 717
Klapa music: 33, 128, 167, 205
Knin Cable Car (Bovec): 717
Kobarid: 712, 720–730; eating, 729–730; map, 721; sights, 722–728; sleeping, 728–729; tourist information, 721; transportation, 721–722, 730
Kobarid Museum: 722–723
Kojan Koral: 425
Koločep: 386–387
Kolovrat Outdoor Museum (Kobarid): 712, 727–728
Konavoske puce: 362–363
Konjic: 575
Koper Cruise Port: 583, 778, 791–792
Korčula: 14, 281–307; eating, 303–305; helpful hints, 284–285; map, 283; nightlife, 300; orientation, 282; planning tips, 282; sights/activities, 285–300; sleeping, 301–303; tourist information, 284; transportation, 237, 238–239, 284, 305–307; walking tour, 285–293
Korčula Church Museum: 290–291, 295
Korčula Seawall: 291–293; eating, 292, 304–305
Korčula Town Hall: 287–288
Korčula Town Museum: 291, 295–296
Korzo (Rijeka): 189
Koski Mehmet-Pasha Mosque (Mostar): 488–489, 491
Kosovo: 796, 802, 803–804, 812
Kostelić, Janica: 35
Kotor: 424, 438–451; eating, 448–450; history of, 429, 438; map, 439; orientation, 438–440; sights/activities, 440–447; sleeping, 447–448; tourist information, 440; transportation, 440, 450–451
Kotor Main Town Gate: 440–441
Kotor Town Walls: 445–447
Kovači Martyrs’ Memorial Cemetery (Sarajevo): 550–551
Kozjak Waterfall: 726
Kozlović: 177
Kralov Med Beehive Demonstration (Selo): 670–671
Kravice Waterfalls: 380, 506, 515
Krilo: 852–853; Dubrovnik, 377–378; Hvar, 279–280; Korčula, 305; Mljet, 367, 414–415; Split, 196, 235, 237
Križanke Theater (Ljubljana): 621–622
Krka Monastery: 246
Krka National Park: 244–246
Krunčići: 177
Kucinich, Dennis: 581
Kugy, Julius: 708
Kunas, Croatian: 823
Kupari: 425
Kurentovanje (Ptuj): 748, 750, 754, 866
Kurja Vas: 703
Kuršumilja Madrasa (Sarajevo): 532
Kuvi Bach (Rovinj): 130
L
Lace Museum (Hvar): 261
Lake Bled region: 17, 653–679; map, 655. See also Bled
Landmine warning, in Croatia: 36, 358
Language: 28; Bosnian, 462, 472; Croatian, 48–50; restaurant phrases, 52; survival phrases, 51; Montenegro, 421; online translation tips, 819; Slovenian, 579, 590–591; restaurant phrases, 594; survival phrases, 593
Language barrier: 844
Lapad Bay: 361
Lapad Peninsula: 311; beaches, 361
La Parenzana: 163
Latin Bridge (Sarajevo): 533
Lauba (Zagreb): 82
Lav Caffe Galerija (Zagreb): 67
Lavender: 253, 256, 266, 267, 271
Lavender Fest (Velo Grablje): 253, 256
Lazareti (Dubrovnik): 337
Lent (Maribor): 759
Lepetane-Kamenari Ferry: 437–438
Liberation and Izetbegovic Square (Sarajevo): 535
Libertas: 309
Linhart Museum (Radovljica): 691
Linhartov Trg (Radovljica): 686
Lipica Stud Farm: 765–768
Lipizzaner stallions: 765–768
Ljubinje: 509
Ljubljana: 17, 595–652; at a glance, 605; arrival in, 599, 602; best views, 603; eating, 643–649; helpful hints, 602–603; history of, 596–597; maps, 600–601, 608, 640–641; orientation, 598; planning tips, 596–598; shopping, 617–618, 637–639; sights/activities, 606–637; sleeping, 639–643; tourist information, 599; tours, 604; transportation, 599, 602, 603, 649–652; walking tours, 606–624
Ljubljana Airport: 651–652, 679
Ljubljana Castle: 605, 614, 624–626, 647
Ljubljana Cathedral: 605, 612, 615–616
Ljubljana City Museum: 605, 621
Ljubljana Contemporary History Museum: 605, 633–635
Ljubljana Main Market Square: 612–613
Ljubljana Museum of Modern Art: 631
Ljubljana National and University Library: 605, 619–620
Ljubljana Open Kitchen: 602, 611–612, 644
Ljubljana River: 604, 606–607, 610, 618; eating along, 647–648
Ljubljana Riverside Market: 605, 611
Ljubljana Skyscraper: 603, 635
Ljubljana Small Market Square: 611–612
Ljubljana Tourist Card: 599
Ljubljana Town Hall: 617
Ljubljana Town Square: 616–617
Ljuta River: 435
Locksmiths’ Street (Sarajevo): 530
Logarska Dolina: 17, 731–741; eating, 741; map, 732–733; planning tips, 732–733; sights/activities, 736–739; sleeping, 739–741; tourist information, 734, 736; transportation, 733–734
Lokrum Island: 338, 361, 381, 384–386
Lovćen: 452–453
Lower Plitvice Lakes: 95–102; hiking, 99–102; map, 96–97
Lower Town (Zagreb): 55, 61–62; eating, 86–87
Lungomare (Opatija): 184
Luža Square (Dubrovnik): 330–331, 334
M
McDonald’s (Sarajevo): 538
Mail: 846–847
Majerija: 760–761
Majstora Jurja (Split): 208–209, 226
Mali Molo (Rovinj): 123
Mali Ston: 242, 397–398, 505–506
Malkovich, John: 35
Malo Grablje: 268
Malvazija: 44–45, 114, 177, 401, 589
Marco Polo: See Polo, Marco
Marco Polo House (Korčula): 291
Maribor: 17, 757–759; planning tips, 745–746
Maribor National Liberation Museum: 759
Marinkovac: 269
Maritime museums: 344, 351–352, 443, 783
Marjan Peninsula: 222–223
Markets: Čilipi, 392; Dubrovnik, 335–336, 364, 376; Korčula, 304; Kotor, 449; Ljubljana, 598, 602, 605, 611–613, 638; Mostar, 484, 493; Opatija, 187; Otočac, 108; Pula, 152–153, 156; Rijeka, 189; Rovinj, 122; Sarajevo, 532, 536; Split, 208, 211–212; Zagreb, 59, 69, 76–77, 86
Marmontova (Split): 210
Maršala Tita Street (Sarajevo): 537–539
Masarykova (Zagreb): eating, 87–88
Massages, in Bled: 657
Matejuška Fishermen’s Port (Split): 212–213
May 1 Square (Piram): 781
Medical help: 817
Međugorje: 380, 507, 509, 515–518
Međugorje Mary: 516–518
Memorial Room of Dubrovnik Defenders (Dubrovnik): 330
Memorial to the Children of Sarajevo (Sarajevo): 538–539
Mesari: 508–509
Mestni Trg (Ljubljana): 616–617
Meštrović, Ivan: 35, 79, 208, 209, 211, 216–222, 452–453; Atelier (Zagreb), 67, 74–75; biographical sketch, 218–219; Gallery (Split), 216–217, 220–221; Račić Mausoleum (Cavtat), 391–392
Meštrović Gallery (Split): 216–217, 220–221
Metelkova (Ljubljana): 598, 635–637
Metelkova City (Ljubljana): 637
Metric system: 868–869
Miklošičeva cesta (Ljubljana): 610–611
Miljacka River: 533
Milošević, Slobodan: 38–39, 436, 586, 803–804, 810–811
Mimara Museum (Zagreb): 82
Mimosa Festival (Herceg Novi): 428
Minčeta Tower (Dubrovnik): 337, 341
Minorite Church and Monastery (Ptuj): 755
Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb): 80–81
Mladić, Ratko: 540–541, 556–557, 810–813
Mljet National Park: 381, 407–415; boat travel, 237, 239, 306, 377, 414–415; helpful hints, 411–412; map, 408; orientation, 409; planning tips, 407–409; sights/activities, 412–414; tourist information, 410; transportation, 410, 414–415
Mobile phones: 26, 843–845. See also Apps
Molunat: 425–426
Monastery of St. Nikola (Trogir): 244
Money: 820–825; average daily expenses, 23; budgeting, 23. See also Currency and exchange; and specific destinations
Money-saving tips: 23–24, 819; Dubrovnik, 313–314; Ljubljana, 599, 643–644; sleeping, 23–24, 829–832; Zagreb, 55. See also specific destinations
Montenegro: 6, 418–458; at a glance, 15, 380–381; almanac, 420–421; history, 418–419, 429, 436, 812; interior driving tour, 451–455; natural wonders, 8; planning tips, 421–422; tours, 423; transportation, 419–421. See also specific destinations
Montenegro Maritime Museum (Kotor): 443
Montokuc (Mljet): 414
Monument to the Victims of All Wars (Ljubljana): 623
Moreška sword dances, in Korčula: 281, 287, 293, 296
Morića Han (Sarajevo): 531
Mostar: 15, 380, 473–509; arrival in, 478–479; eating, 501–503; excursion areas, 510–518; helpful hints, 479–480; maps, 476–477, 511; nightlife, 499; orientation, 475, 478; planning tips, 474–475; sights/activities, 480–498; sleeping, 499–501; tourist information, 478; tours, 479–480; transportation, 475, 478–479, 503–509
Mostar Museum: 486–487
Mostar Old Bridge: 484–487, 506; eating with views, 502
Mostar Synagogue: 482
Motovun: 112, 163, 164–172, 178; map, 166
Motovun Film Festival: 167, 866
Mount Knin: 717
Mount Srđ (Dubrovnik): 317, 322, 337, 355–358
Mount Triglav: 696, 703, 707–708
Mount Učka: 181
Movies, recommended: 867–868
Mukinje: 94, 95–96; sleeping, 104
Museum of Broken Relationships (Zagreb): 65, 73–74
Museum of Contemporary Art (Zagreb): 82
Museum of Contemporary Art-Metelkova (Ljubljana): 636–637
Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide (Sarajevo): 558
Museum of Herzegovina (Mostar): 491–492
Museum of Modern Art (Ljubljana): 631
Museum of Modern Art (Zagreb): 82
Museum of Puppetry (Ljubljana): 626
Museum of the Battle for the Wounded at Neretva (Jablanica): 574–575
Museum of the Old Bridge (Mostar): 486–487
Museum of War and Genocide Victims 1992-1995 (Mostar): 492–493
Music: 33, 462; Bled, 672; Dubrovnik, 316, 363–364, 866; Hvar, 253; Rovinj, 131; Split, 225–226. See also Klapa music; Sevdah music
Musical Instruments Collection (Ptuj Castle): 752
Muslibegović House (Mostar): 494, 500
Muslims in Bosnia: 466–467, 489–491, 527
N
Nadalina (Split): 208
Naive art: origins, 72; Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Zagreb), 70–73
Nakić House (Split): 211
Narodni Trg (Pula): 152–153
Narodni Trg (Split): 210–211
Narodni Trg (Zadar): 248
Narona Archaeological Museum (Metković): 506, 514
National and University Library (Ljubljana): 605, 619–620
National Gallery (Ljubljana): 631–632
National Museum (Cetinje): 454
National Museum (Ljubljana): 630–631, 636
National Museum (Sarajevo): 545, 561
National Museum of Modern Art (Zagreb): 82
National parks: See Krka National Park; Mljet National Park; Plitvice Lakes National Park; Triglav National Park
National Square (Pula): 152–153
Neretva: 574–575
Neretva River: 242, 475, 478, 482, 483, 484
Neretva River Canyon: 574
Neretva River Delta: 506, 513–514
New Muslim Cemetery (Mostar): 491
Nightlife: budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations
Njegoš Museum (Cetinje): 454
Njeguši: 453–454
Nona Ana: Mljet, 368
Northern Valleys: 17, 731–741; farming in, 735, 737; map, 732–733
Nova Gorica: 713–714
Nova Gračanica: 508
O
Octagon (Zagreb): 63
Odisej Hotel (Mljet): 410, 412
Old Bridge (Mostar): 484–487, 506; eating with views, 502
Old Port (Dubrovnik): 311, 337–338, 344, 351–352
Old Serbian Orthodox Church (Sarajevo): 531, 547–548
Old Synagogue (Sarajevo): 534, 552–554
Old Town (Dubrovnik): 308, 311, 322–345; beach, 360–361; eating, 373–377; guided tours, 320; maps, 324–325, 368–369; nightlife, 364–366; shopping, 362–363; sleeping, 367–371; walking tour, 322–338
Old Town (Korčula): 281, 282, 285–293; eating, 303–304; map, 283; nightlife, 300; sleeping, 301
Old Town (Ljubljana): 595, 597, 614–618; eating, 644–647; map, 608–609; shopping, 638–639; sleeping, 639–643; walking tour, 614–618
Old Town (Rovinj): 117, 120–127; eating, 126–138; map, 118; sleeping, 132–134
Old Town (Sarajevo): 520, 527–534; eating, 568–572; map, 528–529; sights, 546–550; walking tour, 528–534
Old Town (Split): 194–195, 200–213; eating, 231–234; guided tours, 199–200; nightlife, 225–226; sleeping, 227–230; walking tour, 200–209
Onofrio’s Big Fountain (Dubrovnik): 327
Onofrio’s Little Fountain (Dubrovnik): 334
Opatija: 112, 181–188; eating, 185–187; map, 182; sights/activities, 183–185; sleeping, 185; tourist information, 183; transportation, 183, 188
Open Kitchen (Ljubljana): 602, 611–612, 644
Oprtalj: 178–179
Orebić: 406; transportation, 306, 307
Orlando’s Column (Dubrovnik): 329–330
Orlovo Gnezdo: 738
Orpheus Monument (Ptuj): 753
Our Lady of Health Church (Dubrovnik): 446
Our Lady of the Rocks: 433–435
Our Lady of the Snows Church (Cavtat): 390
P
Packing tips and checklist: 26, 871
Pag: 191
Pakleni Islands: 265, 269–271; map, 270–271
Palladio, Andrea: 167
Palmižana: 269–271
Panoramic Road: See Solčava Panoramic Road
Paragliding: 604, 661, 717, 734
Park Prevlaka: 426
Parliament: Bosnian (Sarajevo), 542; Croatian (Zagreb), 66; Slovenian (Ljubljana), 630
Partisan Cemetery and Monument (Mostar): 498
Pelješac Bridge: 242, 396–397, 400, 506
Pelješac Peninsula: 241–242, 286, 381, 394–407; map, 398–399
Pelješac Wine Country: 400–407
People’s Square (Split): 210–211
Peristyle (Split): 195, 204–205, 225
Phones: See Telephones
“Pigeon Square” (Sarajevo): 528–530
Pile (Dubrovnik): 311, 322–327; map, 324–325
Pile Gate (Dubrovnik): 311, 326–327, 340–341
Pillbox Beach (Rovinj): 129
Piran: 17, 773–788; eating, 786–787; excursion areas, 788–792; helpful hints, 776–777; history of, 776; map, 775; orientation, 774; planning tips, 773–774; sights/activities, 777–784; sleeping, 784–785; tourist information, 774; transportation, 774–776, 787–788; walking tour, 777–781
Piran Aquarium: 783
Piran Embankment: 780–781
Piran Multimedia: 783
Piran Town Hall: 778
Planica: 704–706
Plečnik, Jože: 581, 598, 607, 610–614, 619–623; biographical sketch, 628; House (Ljubljana), 605, 622–623, 627, 629; walking tour, 619–623
Pletna boats: 653, 663–665, 667
Plitvice Lakes National Park: 12, 92–109; eating, 104–105; geology of, 7, 101; hiking, 99–103; map, 96–97, 97; orientation, 95–97; planning tips, 93–94; sleeping, 103–104; transportation, 94–95, 97–99, 106–109
Ploče: 241–242
Ploče Gate (Dubrovnik): 311, 331, 340–341
Podbrdo: 714
Podravje: 589
Podstine Hotel (Hvar): 264, 276
Pokonji Dol (Hvar): 264
Polače (Mljet): 409
Police: 817
Polka music: 582
Polo, Marco: 35, 281, 291; biographical sketch, 292; House (Korčula), 291
Pomena (Mljet): 409
Ponikve: 402
Popovo Polje: 509
Population: Bosnia-Herzegovina, 464; Croatia, 34; Montenegro, 420; Slovenia, 580
Posavje: 589
Poštarski Dom: 708
Post offices: 846–847
Postojna Caves: 768–771
Postup: 401
Potomje: 403–404
Prčanj: 437
Pred Dvorom (Dubrovnik): 334–335
Predel, Lake: 714
Predjama Castle: 771–772
Prešeren, France: 598, 606, 607
Prešeren Square (Ljubljana): 598, 606–610
Prešernova Street (Ptuj): 754
Preskar Hut (Velika Planina): 743
Prijeko Street (Dubrovnik): 376
Primic, Julija: 607
Primorska: 589
Prižba: 299
Pronouncing place names: 872–873
Prote Bakoviča (Sarajevo): 531
Pršut: 8, 43, 77, 114, 271, 448, 453–454, 588
Ptuj: 17, 746–757; eating, 756–757; map, 747; planning tips, 745–746; sights/activities, 747–755; sleeping, 756; tourist information, 746; transportation, 746–747, 757
Ptuj Castle: 747–752
Ptuj Cellar: 754–755
Ptuj City Tower: 753
Ptuj Kurentovanje: 748, 750, 754, 866
Ptujski Grad: 747–752
Ptuj Thermal Baths: 755
Ptuj Town Hall: 754
Ptuj Town Square: 754
Pula: 112, 141–157; eating, 156–157; helpful hints, 143–144; map, 143; orientation, 142; planning tips, 142; sights/activities, 144–156; tourist information, 142; transportation, 142–143, 157; walking tour, 144–155
Pula Amphitheater: 144–147
Pula Cathedral: 148–149
Pula City Walls: 153
Pula Market Hall: 152–153, 156
Pula Roman Floor Mosaic: 151
Pula Roman Forum: 149–150
Pula Roman Theater: 154
Pula Town Hall: 150
Pula Town Model: 148
Pupnat: 299
Pupnatska Luka: 299
Put Svetog Nikole (Korčula): 282, 284, 286, 296, 301–302, 304
R
Rab: 191
Račić Family Mausoleum (Cavtat): 390, 391–392
Račišće: 299
Radić Brothers Square (Split): 211
Radićeva (Zagreb): 68
Radobolja River Valley: 482–483
Radovljica: 679, 685–691; eating, 691; sights/activities, 686–691
Radovna River: 680
Rafting: 224, 527, 575, 604; Soča River, 661, 716–717
Rakovica: eating, 105
Rastoke: 107
Ravelnik Outdoor Museum (Bovec): 711–712
Rector’s Palace (Dubrovnik): 322, 334, 347–348
Rector’s Palace (Korčula): 287–288
Red History Museum (Dubrovnik): 322, 359–360
Red Island: 129
Reka River: 765
Rental properties: See Apartment rentals
Republika Srpska: 507–509
Resources from Rick Steves: 863–864
Ribčev Laz: 696–697
Richard I (the Lionheart): 335, 385
Rijeka: 112, 188–192; car travel, 107, 140, 190–192; sights/activities, 189
Rinka Waterfall: 738
Risan: 431
Riva (Split): 194–195, 210; nightlife, 225
Riva (Zadar): 249
Robanov Kot: 734, 738–739; sleeping, 740
Robinson Beach (Hvar): 264
Roman Floor Mosaic (Pula): 151
Roman Forum (Pula): 149–150
Romans, ancient (Roman sites): 37, 246, 247–248, 388–389, 429, 431, 438, 514, 621, 746, 753, 793–794; Pula, 141, 144–154; Split, 200–209. See also Diocletian
Roman Theater (Pula): 154
Romantika (Ljubljana): 623, 648–649
“Romeo and Juliet Bridge” (Sarajevo): 543–544
Rondo (Mostar): 496
Roški Slap: 246
Rovinj: 112, 115–140; eating, 136–139; helpful hints, 120; history of, 114; maps, 117–118; nightlife, 131–132; orientation, 117; planning tips, 117; sights/activities, 127–130; sleeping, 132–136; tourist information, 117–118; transportation, 117–120, 139–140; walking tour, 120–127
Rovinj Bell Tower: 127
Rovinj Harbor: 115, 122–123, 125, 128–130; eating, 138; nightlife, 131
Rovinj Heritage Museum: 128
Rovinj Town Hall: 125
Rupe Granary (Dubrovnik): 323, 354–355
Russian Orthodox Chapel (Kranjska Gora): 706–707
S
Sabor (Zagreb): 66
St. Anastasius Church (Zadar): 248
St. Blaise’s Church (Dubrovnik): 331
St. Catherine Church (Zagreb): 65
St. Catherine Island: 129
St. Domnius Cathedral (Split): 205–207
St. Donatus Church (Zadar): 248
St. Euphemia Church (Rovinj): 126–127
St. George Island: 433–435
St. George’s Cathedral and Bell Tower (Piran): 779, 782–783
St. George’s Parish Church (Ptuj): 753
St. Jakob Beach (Dubrovnik): 338, 361
St. James Abbey (Opatija): 184
St. James’ Church (Međugorje): 516–517
St. John’s Baptistery (Split): 207–208
St. John’s Fort (Dubrovnik): 337, 340
St. John the Baptist Church (Ribcev Laz): 696–697
St. Joseph Church (Sarajevo): 543
St. Joseph Church (Soča): 543
St. Lawrence Cathedral (Trogir): 244
St. Lawrence Fort (Dubrovnik): 317, 326, 343
St. Luke’s Church (Kotor): 444
St. Luke’s Square (Kotor): 444–445
St. Mark’s Cathedral (Korčula): 290, 293–295
St. Mark’s Church (Zagreb): 66
St. Mark’s Square (Korčula): 289–291
St. Mark’s Square (Zagreb): 65–66
St. Martin’s Chapel (Split): 208–209
St. Mary Franciscan Church (Ljubljana): 607, 610
St. Mary Island (Mljet): 408, 409, 412, 413–414
St. Mary of Snows Chapel (Velika Planina): 743
St. Michael’s Church (Korčula): 288
St. Nicholas Church (Cavtat): 389–390
St. Nicholas Church (Kotor): 444–445
St. Nicholas Church (Perast): 432–433
St. Peter’s Church (Radovljica): 686
St. Savior Church (Dubrovnik): 327
St. Savior Square (Dubrovnik): 327–328
Sts. Cyril and Methodius Serbian Orthodox Church (Ljubljana): 605, 632–633
Sts. Peter and Paul Franciscan Church (Mostar): 480–481
St. Stephen Cathedral (Hvar): 259–260
St. Stephen’s Church (Motovun): 167
St. Stephen’s Square (Hvar): 257–259, 278–279
St. Tryphon Cathedral (Kotor): 442–443
St. Vitus Cathedral (Rijeka): 189
Samobor: 89–91
Samobor Museum: 90
Sarači Street (Sarajevo): 530–532
Sarajevo: 15, 519–576; arrival in, 521–524; best views, 565; eating, 568–573; helpful hints, 524, 526; history of, 519–520, 525, 540–541, 551; maps, 522–523, 528–529, 570–571; orientation, 520–521; planning tips, 520; sights/activities, 546–566; sleeping, 566–567; tourist information, 521; tours, 526–527; transportation, 521–524, 573–576; walking tours, 527–546
Sarajevo Cable Car: 565–566
Sarajevo Catholic Cathedral: 534–535, 555
Sarajevo City Center (SCC): 543
Sarajevo City History Museum: 530, 546–547
Sarajevo National Museum: 545, 561
Sarajevo Old Synagogue: 534, 552–554
Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum: 527, 562–564
Sarajevo 1878-1918 Museum: 533, 549–550
Sarajevska Brewery (Sarajevo): 533, 572
Sava River: 703
Savica Waterfall: 698–699
Savinja River: 734, 736–737, 738
Sea Organ (Zadar): 248
Sečovlje Salina Nature Park: 789–791
Serb Herzegovina: 507–509
Serbian Orthodox Cathedral (Sarajevo): 499, 536, 547–548
Serbian Orthodox Church: about, 354; Dubrovnik, 323, 353; Kotor, 444–445; Ljubljana, 605, 632–633; Mostar, 486
Sergej Mašera Maritime Museum (Piram): 783
Sergijevaca (Pula): 150, 151; eating, 156
Sevdah music: 462
Shell Bay (Korčula): 282, 296–297
Shopping: clothing sizes, 869; hours, 818–819; VAT refunds, 825. See also specific destinations
Siege of Dubrovnik: 332–333
Siege of Sarajevo: 520, 521, 525, 527–528, 531, 533, 536–545, 810; guided tours, 526–527
Sightseeing: best two-week trip, 20–21; general tips, 826–828; maps and navigation, 826; priorities, 12–17. See also specific sights and destinations
SIM cards: 845
Šipan: 388
Široka Ulica (Zadar): 248
Skalinska (Zagreb): 85
Ski Flying World Championships (Planica): 705–706, 866
Škofja Loka: 695
Skradinski Buk waterfall: 245, 246
Skyscraper, the (Ljubljana): 603, 635
“Slavija Square” (Split): 225–226
Sleep code: 829
Sleeping: 828–840; budgeting, 23; helpful hints, 832–833; online services, 830–831; rates and deals, 23–24, 829–832; reservations, 24, 25, 834–835; types of accommodations, 833–840. See also specific destinations
Sloboda Theater (Dubrovnik): 334, 366
Slovenia: 5–6, 578–792; at a glance, 17; almanac, 580–581; cuisine, 587–590, 644, 677; helpful hints, 583; history, 583–587, 804–805; map, 579; natural wonders, 7–8; overview, 578–591. See also specific destinations
Slovenian Ethnographic Museum (Ljubljana): 605, 635–636
Slovenian History Exhibition (Ljubljana): 625–626
Slovenian language: 579, 590–591; restaurant phrases, 594; survival phrases, 593
Slovenian Museum of Natural History (Ljubljana): 630–631
Slovenian National Gallery (Ljubljana): 631–632
Slovenian National Museum (Ljubljana): 630–631
Slovenian National Museum-Metelkova (Ljubljana): 636
Slovenian Parliament (Ljubljana): 630
Slovenski Trg (Ptuj): 753
Slunj: 107
Small Bridge (Mljet): 408, 409, 412, 413
Small Lake (Mljet): 412–413
Small Market Square (Ljubljana): 611–612
Smartphones: 26, 843–845. See also Apps
Smoking bans: 819
Smokvica: 299
“Sniper Alley” (Sarajevo): 537, 542–546, 558
Sobe: overview, 367, 833–837. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
Soča (town): 710
Soča (Isonzo) Front: 710–713, 722–725, 727–728; overview, 724–725
Soča River: 708, 716–717; fishing, 717; rafting, 661, 716–717
Soča River Valley: 708–713
Solčava: 736, 738; eating, 741; sleeping, 740–741
Solčava Panoramic Road: 734, 736–737; eating, 741; sleeping, 740–741
Solkan Bridge: 713
Split: 12, 193–242; arrival in, 196; eating, 231–234; excursion areas, 242–249; helpful hints, 197; maps, 195, 198–199, 228–229; nightlife, 225–226; orientation, 194–195; planning tips, 194; sights/activities, 200–224; sleeping, 226–231; tourist information, 195–196; tours, 199–200; transportation, 196, 197–199, 235–242; walking tour, 200–209
Split Archaeological Museum: 215
Split City Hall: 211
Split City Museum: 208, 213–214
Split Ethnographic Museum: 213
Split Gallery of Fine Arts: 209, 214–215
Split Summer Festival: 197
Split Synagogue: 214
Sponza Palace (Dubrovnik): 330
Square at the Bridge (Rovinj): 122–123
Square of Arms (Kotor): 441–442
Square of the Republic (Ljubljana): 629–630
Srebrenica: 493, 527, 556–558, 810
Srebrenica Exhibition (Sarajevo): 535, 555, 558
Stara Luka (Dubrovnik): See Old Port
Stari Grad: 253, 265–266, 279–280
Stari Most (Mostar): 484–487; eating with views, 502
Stepinac, Alojzije: 40, 79–80, 218, 799–800
Stone Gate (Zagreb): 67
Ston Saltworks: 400
Stradun (Dubrovnik): 311, 322, 328–329, 334, 342–343; sleeping, 367, 370
Strossmayer Promenade (Zagreb): 64–65
Stupe Island: 297
Šupljara Cave: 100
Sveti Stefan: 456–458
Svrzo’s House (Sarajevo): 551–552
Swimming: See Beaches
Swiss House (Opatija): 184
Sword dances, in Korčula: 281, 287, 293, 296
Synagogue Museum (Dubrovnik): 323, 352
T
Tales of Mljet: 411
Tartini Square (Piran): 774, 777–779, 787
Tarvisio: 715
Taxes, VAT refunds: 825
Taxis: 854. See also specific destinations
Tekija (Blagaj): 510–511
Telephones: 843–847; Croatia, 36
Temperatures, average monthly: 869
Temple of Augustus (Pula): 149–150
Tepa Market (Mostar): 493
Theft alerts: 27, 817, 823–824
Three Carniolan Rivers Fountain (Ljubljana): 616–617
Time zones: 818
Tintoretto: 294
Tipping: 824–825
Tito (Josip Broz): 38, 40, 79, 110, 121, 123, 218, 308, 425, 428, 441, 466, 482, 492, 498, 527, 537, 544–545, 549, 558, 574–575, 585, 634, 653, 799–803; biographical sketch, 800–801; Brijuni Islands, 157–160; Vila Bled, 662–663
Tito Square (Rovinj): 123, 125
Tivoli Park (Ljubljana): 633
Tkalčićeva (Zagreb): 68–69, 85–86
Tolmin: 712–713
Tomb of the Seven Brothers (Sarajevo): 533–534, 550
Tonkina Koča: 707
Tourist information: 817. See also specific destinations
Tours: Rick Steves, 863. See also specific destinations
Train travel: 848; best two-week trip, 21; map, 850–851. See also specific destinations
Transportation: 847–863; best two-week trip, 21; booking, 25; budgeting, 23; map, 850–851. See also specific destinations
Travel advisories: 816
Travel documents: 25
Travel smarts: 27–28
Travel tips: 816–819
Trebinje: 508
Trebišnjica River: 508
Trenta: 709–710; sleeping, 718–719
Trg Francoske Revolucije (Ljubljana): 622–623
Trg Kralja Tomislava (Samobor): 90
Trg Maršala Tita (Rovinj): 123, 125
Trg Musala (Mostar): 495–496, 499
Trg na Mostu (Rovinj): 122–123
Trg od Oržja (Kotor): 441–442
Trg Petra Preradovića (Zagreb): 63–64, 85
Trg Pomirenja (Korčula): 285–286
Trg Republike (Ljubljana): 629–630
Trg Sv. Marka (Korčula): 289–290
Trg Svetog Luke (Kotor): 444–445
Trg Svetog Stjepana (Hvar): 257–259, 278–279
Trg 1 Maja (Piran): 781
Triglav National Park: 655–656, 702, 706–708, 709–710; Information Center, 702, 709–710
Trip costs: 23
Triple Bridge (Ljubljana): 598, 606–607
Trogir: 242–244
Trogir Town Museum: 244
Tromeđe: 426
Trpanj: 241–242
Trstenik: 405–406
Trstenik Beach (Split): 223
Trsteno Arboretum: 381, 393–394, 505
Trubarjeva cesta (Ljubljana): 647
Truffles: 8, 9, 85, 110, 114, 136, 163, 164, 165–166, 169–180, 588, 867; about, 171
Tuđman, Franjo: 41, 67, 81, 287, 805, 809, 813; biographical sketch, 38–39
Tuđman Bridge: 396–397
Tunnel Grič (Zagreb): 63
Turanj: 107
U
Uber: 854; Split, 199; Zagreb, 59
Ulica Korčulanskog Statuta 1214 (Korčula): 288–289
Ultra Europe Music Festival (Split): 197, 866
Upper Plitvice Lakes: 95–99, 102–103; hiking, 102–103; map, 96–97
Upper Town (Zagreb): 55, 60–69; eating, 88; map, 61; walking tour, 60–69
Ustaše: 38, 40, 79, 217, 218, 468, 554, 575, 798–802
V
Valalta: 116
Varoš (Split): 212, 230–231, 234
VAT refunds: 825
Vela Pržina (Lumbarda): 298
Velenje Castle: 743–744
Velika Planina: 742–743
Velika Zaka: 663
Veliki Prštavac: 102
Velo Grablje: 253, 256, 266, 268–269
“Venetian House” (Piran): 778
Venice: 124; boat travel, 120; bus travel, 139–140
Verdijeva Ulica (Piran): 781
Verige Strait: 430–431; eating, 450
Vidović (Emanuel) Gallery (Split): 214
Vila Bled: 662–663
Villa Urbana (Risan): 431
Vinogradišce Cove: 270
Vis Island: 224
Višnjić, Goran: 35
Visovac Island: 246
Vjetrenica: 509
Vlaho Bukovac House (Cavtat): 390–391
Vlaka: 270–271; eating, 270–271
Vogel Mountain Cable Car: 697–698
Voinovich, George: 581
Volpia: 173–174
Vrata Valley: 703
Vrboska: 266
Vrnik Island: 297
Vršič Pass: 702–708
W
Walk of Peace (Kobarid): 727
War Childhood Museum (Sarajevo): 534, 554–555
War Photo Exhibition (Mostar): 487
War Photo Limited (Dubrovnik): 323, 352–353
Western (Croat) Mostar: 475, 478, 496–498; eating, 503; map, 476–477
White Bastion (Sarajevo): 565, 566
Wine: Bosnia, 472; Croatia, 44–45, 266, 267, 298, 321; Pelješac, 400–407; Slovenia, 589, 754–755. See also Istrian wine
Wolf, Hugo: 581
Woodrow Wilson Promenade (Sarajevo): 544
World War I: 38, 154–155, 468, 585, 626, 698, 706–707, 710–711, 797; Soča (Isonzo) Front, 710–713, 722–725, 727–728
World War II: 38, 63, 249, 286, 468, 482, 483, 498, 574–575, 585, 597, 626, 634, 686–687, 694, 757–758, 798–799
Y
Yellow Bastion (Sarajevo): 565
Yugoslavia: history, 793–815
Yugoslav Wars: 38–40, 63, 92–93, 108, 352–353, 354, 457, 463, 491, 492–493, 521, 525, 802–811; terminology, 521, 795
Z
Zadar Archaeological Museum: 247–248
Zadružna Zveza (Ljubljana): 610
Žaga: 712
Zagreb: 12, 53–89; arrival in, 56–58; eating, 84–88; excursion areas, 89–91; helpful hints, 59–60; maps, 56–57, 61; orientation, 55; planning tips, 54–55; sights, 69–82; sleeping, 82–84; tourist information, 55; tours, 60; transportation, 56–59, 88–89; walking tour, 60–69
Zagreb Botanical Garden: 82
Zagreb Card: 55
Zagreb Town Hall: 65
Zagreb 80s Museum: 68
Zagreb 80’s Museum: 82
Zasip: 681
Zastup (Hvar): 275
Zelenika: 428
Železniki: 695
Zetra Olympics Center (Sarajevo): 539
Zigante Tartufi (Livade): 179
Zlatorog: 697
Zrinjevac Park (Mostar): 496–497