ORIENTATION TO BRUGES

Brugge • Bruges

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Overview

TOURIST INFORMATION

Map: Bruges

ARRIVAL IN BRUGES

HELPFUL HINTS

GETTING AROUND BRUGES

Tours in Bruges

NEAR BRUGES

With pointy gilded architecture, stay-a-while cafés, vivid time-tunnel art, and dreamy canals dotted with swans, Bruges is a heavyweight sightseeing destination. It’s also a joy: Where else can you ride a bike along a canal, munch mussels and wash them down with the world’s best beer, savor heavenly chocolate, and see Flemish Primitives and a Michelangelo, all within 300 yards of a bell tower that jingles every 15 minutes? And do it all without worrying about a language barrier?

The town is Brugge (BROO-ghah) in Dutch, and Bruges (broozh) in French and English. Its name comes from the Old Norse word for “wharf.” Right from the start, Bruges was a trading center.

In the 11th century, the city grew wealthy on the cloth trade. As the middleman in the sea trade between northern and southern Europe, Bruges was an economic powerhouse and became one of the biggest cities in the world (as large as London, for a time). By the 14th century, it was the most important cloth market in northern Europe.

In the 15th century, while England and France were slugging it out in the Hundred Years’ War, Bruges was the favored residence of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy—and at peace. Commerce and the arts boomed. The artists Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling had studios here.

But by the 16th century, the harbor had silted up and the economy had collapsed. The Burgundian court left, Belgium became a minor Habsburg possession, and Bruges’ golden age abruptly ended.

For generations, Bruges was a backwater. In the 19th century, a new port, Zeebrugge, brought renewed vitality to the area. And in the 20th century, tourists discovered the town. These days, some 8 million people visit each year.

Today, Bruges prospers because of tourism, but even with the crowds, it’s the kind of place where you don’t mind being a tourist. Just an hour west of Brussels by train, this uniquely well-preserved Gothic city is a handy gateway to Europe.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Bruges needs at least two nights and a full, well-organized day. With one day—other than a Monday, when the Gruuthuse Museum and Sint-Janshospitaal and Memling Collection are closed—a speedy visitor could try this ambitious Bruges blitz (which is outlined in my Bruges City Walk):

If this schedule seems too ambitious, skip the bell tower and the brewery—or stay another day.

Overview

The tourist’s Bruges is less than one square mile, contained within a canal (the former moat). Nearly everything of interest and importance is within a convenient cobbled swath between the train station and the Markt (Market Square; a 20-minute walk). Most tourists are concentrated in the triangle formed by the Markt, Burg Square, and the Church of Our Lady; outside of that tight zone, the townscape is sleepy and relatively uncrowded. Many of my charming recommended accommodations lie just beyond this zone.

TOURIST INFORMATION

You’ll find branches of the TI at the train station and in the Historium building on the Markt (both daily 10:00-17:00). Pick up the free city map and museum brochure with the latest hours, and get your questions answered. Both TIs also sell a substantial booklet outlining four city walks. The In&Uit (“In and Out”) TI in the big red concert hall on the square called ’t Zand is helpful for performing arts tickets (Mon-Sat 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, Sun until 14:00; ’t Zand 34). All three TIs share the same phone number and website, which lists events and concerts (+32 50 444 646, www.visitbruges.be).

ARRIVAL IN BRUGES

By Train: Bruges’ train station is in a clean, parklike setting, where travelers step out the door and see a taxi stand and a roundabout with center-bound buses circling through every few minutes. Coming in by train, you’ll see the bell tower that marks the main square (Markt, the center of town). The station has a TI, ATMs, fast food, and lockers.

The easiest way to get to the town center is by free shuttle bus. These leave from the station’s “kiss-and-ride” area, straight ahead from the station doors (no ticket required, daily 7:00-19:00, runs every 20 minutes to the Markt and other city-center stops, www.brugge.be/mobiliteit).

You can also get to the center via a regular city bus (for details, see “Getting Around Bruges,” later). A taxi from the train station to most hotels is about €15.

It’s a 20-minute walk from the station to the center. To reach the Markt, head for the tall brick bell tower. Cross the busy street in front of the station and veer left on a pleasant path through the park. Emerging at the square called ’t Zand, turn right on Zuidzandstraat, which leads directly to Markt.

By Car: Driving in town is complicated because of the one-way system. The best plan for drivers: Park at the train station, visit the TI there, and take a bus or taxi into town. A handy two-story garage is just behind the train station (€6.10 for 24 hours). The parking fee includes a round-trip same-day bus ticket into town for up to four people in your car (get your free bus ticket by showing your parking ticket to staff at the Lijnwinkel ticket office just outside the station).

There are pricier underground parking garages at the square called ’t Zand and around town (€15.80/day, all well marked), but why bother when you have the great train station garage option?

HELPFUL HINTS

Sightseeing Tips: The Musea Brugge Card sightseeing pass is a good deal (available at www.museabrugge.be, the TI, and covered museums; see the next chapter for details). If you’re in Bruges on a Monday, when several museums are closed, consider the following activities or attractions: bell-tower climb on the Markt, Begijnhof, De Halve Maan Brewery tour, Basilica of the Holy Blood, City Hall, Bruges Beer Experience, chocolate shops and museum, and Church of Our Lady. You can also join a boat, bus, or walking tour, or rent a bike and pedal into the countryside.

Market Days: Bruges hosts markets on Wednesday morning (on the Markt) and Saturday morning (’t Zand). On good-weather Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays, a flea market hops along Dijver in front of the Groeninge Museum (March-Oct). The fish market (vismarkt) sells souvenirs daily and seafood Wednesday through Saturday mornings until 13:00.

Bookstore: A good travel bookstore (De Reyghere, which carries my guidebooks) is at #12 on the Markt.

Laundry: Bruges has several self-service launderettes. Ask your hotelier for the nearest, but one of the most central is The Laundrette (Tue-Sun 10:00-22:00, Mon from 12:00, next to Hotel Marcel at Niklaas Desparsstraat 5—see the “Bruges Hotels” map for location, +32 50 335 502, www.thelaundrette.be).

Bike Rental: Rates are generally the same around town. For locations, see the “Bruges” map. Some hotels also rent bikes to guests.

Bruges Bike Rental is central and cheap, with friendly service and long hours (show this book to get student rate, daily, free child seats, behind the far-out iron facade at Niklaas Desparsstraat 17, +32 50 616 108, www.brugesbikerental.be).

Koffieboontje Bike Rental is just under the bell tower on the Markt (tandem bikes available, daily, free child seats, Hallestraat 4, +32 50 338 027, www.adventure-bike-renting.be).

De Ketting is less central, but cheaper than most (closed Sun, Gentpoortstraat 23, +32 50 344 196, www.deketting.be).

Best Town View: The bell tower overlooking the Markt rewards those who climb it with the ultimate Bruges view.

Jogging: Locals love the six-mile run, walk, or bike ride that follows a path along the inside of the circular canal, tracing the old city wall and passing four medieval gates.

Christmas Markets: Bruges is a popular holiday destination. It hosts Christmas markets at three locations throughout December, with ice skating, a winter bar, and a 30-minute illuminated walk through the city.

GETTING AROUND BRUGES

Because the city is easily walkable, most visitors won’t need a bus or taxi except for traveling between the train station and the city center at the Markt.

By Bus: The free shuttle bus from the train station to the town center (see “Arrival in Bruges,” earlier) may be all you need, but buses #1 and #2 also get you to the center in a few minutes. They both stop on Dijver street, a couple of blocks south of the Markt, as well as at Stadsschouwburg (the City Theater—at Adriaan Willaertstraat and Vlamingstraat), north of the Markt. Bus #2 continues to the northeast part of town (to the recommended accommodations on and near Carmerstraat). At night, buses can be infrequent; the Google Maps app can alert you to the next available bus—or just take a taxi.

A bus ticket is €2.50 and good for an hour. At the train station, you can buy tickets at the Lijnwinkel shop that’s curbside, just outside the station (credit card; buy as many tickets as you need in advance). While you cannot buy tickets on the bus, you can simply tap your credit card to pay for the ride. If you’re going to Antwerp or Ghent and plan to use public transportation there as well, consider the 10-ride ticket for €17. You can use it in all three cities (and anywhere else in Flanders), and you can share the ticket with others. Though various day passes are available, there’s probably no need to buy one for your visit. Bus info: www.delijn.be.

By Taxi: You’ll find taxi stands at the station and on the Markt (€8/first 1.5 kilometers; to get a cab in the center, call +32 50 36 36 49). Uber is restricted to picking up passengers at the train station or the Markt.

Tours in Bruges

Boat Tours

The most relaxing and scenic (though not informative) way to see this city of canals is by boat, with the captain narrating. All companies offer essentially the same thing: a 30-minute route (roughly 4/hour, daily 10:00-17:00, may run weekends only in Jan), a price of €15, and narration in three to four languages on the same tour. Qualitative differences are due to individual guides, not companies. Let them know you speak English to ensure you’ll understand the spiel. Two companies give a RS% group-rate discount to individuals with this book: Boten Stael (just over the canal from Sint-Janshospitaal at Katelijnestraat 4, +32 50 332 771) and Gruuthuse (Nieuwstraat 11, opposite Groeninge Museum, +32 50 333 293).

Bike Tour

QuasiMundo Bike Tours leads daily five-mile bike tours around the city (€33, €22 with your own bike, reserve ahead, RS%, 2.5 hours, departs Feb-Oct at 10:00, in Nov only with good weather, no tours Dec-Jan). For more details and contact info, see the listing under “Near Bruges,” later in this section.

City Minibus Tour

City Tour Bruges gives an overview of the town in an 18-seat, two-skylight minibus with dial-a-language headsets and videos (€25, 50 minutes, pay driver). The tour leaves every 30 minutes from the Markt (10:00-19:00, until sunset off-season, fewer in winter, +32 50 355 024, www.citytour.be). The narration is slow-moving, but the tour is a lazy way to roll past virtually every sight in Bruges.

Walking Tour

The TI arranges two-hour “Bruges from the Heart” walks through the core of town (€12.50, almost daily in busy season, Sat year-round, limited to 16 people, depart from TI on ’t Zand Square at 14:30, schedule at www.visitbruges.be). To propel you beyond the pretty gables and canal swans of Bruges, they’re good medicine.

Local Guides

Sylvie Brems gives three-hour walks (€170) and full-day tours (€345) and can join you in your car for a guided tours of Ypres and the WWI battlefields (+32 478 822 978, sylvie.brems@gmail.com).

Patrick Verleye is also good—especially considering his rates ($35/person for 2-hour private tour). Patrick’s food tours provide 10 tastings—cheese, shrimp, waffles, chocolate, beer, and more ($110, 3 hours, generally leave at 11:00); check his website for other offerings, including a bike tour (+32 497 4684 33, www.tourinbruges.com, info@tourinbruges.com).

You can also hire a guide through the TI’s VisitBruges.be website (typically €100 for a two-hour tour, reserve at least one week in advance).

Horse-and-Buggy Tour

The buggies around town can take you on a clip-clop tour (€70, 35 minutes; price is per carriage, not per person; seats five; buggies gather in the Markt).

NEAR BRUGES

Popular tour destinations from Bruges are Flanders Fields (famous WWI sites about 40 miles to the southwest; see that chapter for more information) and the picturesque town of Damme (four easy-to-bike miles to the northeast).

Quasimodo Countryside Tours

This company offers an engaging all-day bus tour to WWI battlefields, trenches, memorials, and poppy-strewn fields (Tue-Sun 9:15, no tours Mon or in Jan, 8 hours, visit to In Flanders Fields Museum not included). Be ready for lots of walking.

Tours cost €93 (cash preferred but cards accepted, make required reservation online, at TI, or by calling +32 50 370 470, www.quasimodo.be).

Bike Tours

For do-it-yourself bike tours, see my bike ride to the historic town of Damme (here). My self-guided walk from the Markt to the moat is also good fun on a bike (here). For bike-rental shops in Bruges, see “Helpful Hints,” earlier.

QuasiMundo Bike Tours offers a daily “Border by Bike” tour through the nearby countryside to Damme (€38, €25 if you already have a bike, RS%, reservations required, May-Sept, departs at 13:30, 15 miles, 4 hours, +32 50 330 775, www.quasimundo.com). Meet at QuasiMundo’s office at Predikherenstraat 28 (be there 10 minutes before departure). All guides are local.

Pink Bear Bike Tours, run by charming Mieke, takes small groups on an easy and delightful 3.5-hour guided pedal along a canal to Damme and back, finishing with a brief tour of Bruges. English tours go daily through peak season and nearly daily the rest of the year (€35, €24 if you already have a bike, RS%, reservations required, meet at 10:25 under bell tower on the Markt, +32 476 744 525, www.pinkbear.be).

Patrick Verleye (see listing earlier) also offers private bike tours to Damme infused with lots of history, on a route designed to avoid both crowds and wind ($75/3 hours, includes e-bike rental and a beer in Damme).