INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
R S T U
V W Z  

A

Abbeys and monasteries: Augustine Monastery (Třeboň), 347–348; Strahov Monastery (Prague), 55, 90–91; Zlatá Koruna Monastery, 331–332

Absinthe: 228, 475

Accommodations: See Sleeping

AC Sparta: 250, 252

Adria Palace (Prague): 71

Airbnb: 24, 464–465, 467–470

Air conditioning, in hotels: 467

Airport, in Prague: 258–259

Air travel: 23, 489

Albright, Madeleine: 445

American Bar (Prague): 70

Anenské Náměstí (Prague): 58

Animation, Czech: 497–498

Apartment rentals: See Rental properties

Apps: 26, 477; language translation, 28, 454; maps and navigation, 37, 460, 486–487; messaging, 477; payment, 455, 457; Prague, 37, 40; sightseeing, 462; user reviews, 465

Archbishop’s Château (Kroměříž): 410–411

Archbishop’s Palace (Prague): 186

Archdiocesan Museum (Olomouc): 404

Architecture: castles, 441; churches, 440

Arcibiskupský Zámek (Kroměříž): 410–411

Artěl (Prague): 239

Art Gallery of the Central Bohemian Region (Kutná Hora): 274–275

Art museums: Archdiocesan Museum (Olomouc), 404; Art Gallery of the Central Bohemian Region (Kutná Hora), 274–275; Czech Museum of Silver (Kutná Hora), 268, 271, 275–276; Egon Schiele Art Center (Český Krumlov), 325–326; House of the Golden Ring (Prague), 56; Litoměřice Church Museum, 289–290; Mucha Museum (Prague), 158–164; Museum Kampa (Prague), 82–83; Museum of Medieval Art (Prague), 63, 136–143; Museum of Modern Art (Olomouc), 403; Schwarzenberg Palace (Prague), 88–89, 186, 188; Seidel Photo Studio Museum (Český Krumlov), 326; Sternberg Palace (Prague), 88–89; Vyšehrad Gallery (Prague), 195. See also Mucha Museum; Museum of Medieval Art

Art Nouveau, in Prague: 66–67, 69–70, 71–72, 74, 84–85, 104, 108, 111–113, 255; design shops, 238–239. See also Mucha, Alfons

Astronomical Clock: Olomouc, 397, 399; Prague, 52, 103–104

ATMs: 454–457

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 491

Augustine Monastery (Třeboň): 347–348

B

Babička Míla (“Granny Míla”): 450

Ballet, in Prague: 244–245

Bankomats (ATMs): 454–457

Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 26. See also Money

Barber’s Bridge (Český Krumlov): 318

Baroque Theater (Český Krumlov): 321–324

Bars: See Pubs

Bat’a Shoes (Prague): 156, 238

Bazilika: See Churches and cathedrals

Bazilika Sv. Prokopa (Třebíč): 363–364

Beaches: Prague, 73; Třeboň, 350

Bear Pits (Český Krumlov): 320

Becherovka: 309–310, 450, 475

Beer: 216–217, 475; tours, in Prague, 37. See also Breweries; Pubs

Benediktská (Prague): 238

Beneš, Edvard: 92–93, 324–325, 374–375, 443

Benešov: 292

Beroun: 298

Berounka River: 298, 300

Bertiny Lázne (Třeboň): 352

Beskydy Mountains: 414–415

Bethlehem Chapel (Prague): 57–58

Bethlehem Square (Prague): 57–58; eating, 212, 218

Beverages: 475. See also Beer; Breweries; Pubs; Teahouses

Biking (bike rentals): Český Krumlov, 315, 329; Mikulov Wine Region, 417–419; Olomouc, 394–395; Prague, 39, 252; Slavonice, 368, 374; Telč, 356; Třebíč, 361; Třeboň, 345, 350–351; Valtice, 430

Bird show, at Lednice Château: 432

Bird-watching, in Třeboň: 342, 351

Birthrate in Czech Republic: 447

Bishop’s Town (Olomouc): 403–404

Black Light Theater (Prague): 71, 241, 243

Black Madonna, House of the (Prague): 56–57, 108, 227

Black Madonna of Mikulov: 420

Boat cruises: Prague, 46–47; Třeboň, 351–352

Boating: Český Krumlov, 328–329, 331; Pavlov, 428; Prague, 47, 73; Telč, 356; Třeboň, 350, 351–352. See also Canoeing

Bone Church (Sedlec): 271–272

Books, recommended: 495–496

Bookstore, in Prague: 37, 82, 239

Boršov: 331

Brahe, Tycho: 50, 106, 110, 183, 438

Břevnovský Klášter: 50

Breweries: 216–217; Český Krumlov, 316, 327–328; Olomouc, 394, 407; Prague, 91, 221, 223, 226; Štramberk, 413; Třeboň, 350, 352

Bridge of Legions (Prague): 73

Brusnice (Prague): 50

Budapest: guided tours, 259

Budgeting: 23. See also Money-saving tips

Buses: 481–482; best 12-day trip, 20; map, 482–483; Prague, 257–258, 259; tickets, 40–41; tours, 45–46. See also specific destinations

Business hours: 453–454

C

Cabs: See Taxis

Cafés: Olomouc, 408; Prague, 227–228

Café Lucerna (Prague): 153

Café Mahler (Olomouc): 399, 408

Café NONA (Prague): 72, 228

Canoeing: Český Krumlov, 328–329, 331; Pavlov, 428; Prague, 47, 73; Třeboň, 351–352

Čapek, Karel: 6, 133, 496

Car insurance: 485–486

Carlsbad: See Karlovy Vary

Car navigation: 486–487

Car rentals: 23, 483–485; Mikulov Wine Region, 419; Prague, 39

Car service, in Prague: 259

Car travel (driving): 487–489; best two-week trip, 19; Český Krumlov, 314, 337–339; distance and time, 486–487; Karlovy Vary, 305; Karlštejn Castle, 296; Konopiště Castle, 292; Mikulov Wine Region, 417, 426–427; Moravský Krumlov, 376; road signs, 488; Třeboň, 345; Wallachia, 412–413, 414–415

Castle Gardens (Český Krumlov), 320–321, 324–325; (Kroměříž), 411

Castle Parks (Lednice): 431–433

Castle Quarter (Prague): 32–33, 85–94; at a glance, 55; eating, 221–222; map, 204–205; sights, 85–94

Castles and palaces: architecture, 441; sightseeing tips, 461–462; Archbishop’s Château (Kroměříž), 410–411; Černín Palace (Prague), 92–93; Hluboká Castle, 338; Hrádek Castle (Kutná Hora), 267, 275–276; Karlštejn Castle, 295–298; Kinský Palace (Prague), 100; Konopiště Castle, 291–295; Krivoklát Castle, 16, 264, 298–300; Krumlov Castle (Český Krumlov), 318–325; Landštejn Castle (Slavonice), 372–373; Lány Castle, 302–303; Lednice Château, 431–433; Lobkowicz Palace (Prague), 55; Martinický Palace (Prague), 188; Mikulov Château, 421; Nižbor Castle, 300; Old Royal Palace (Prague), 55, 87, 181–182; Royal Summer Palace (Prague), 89, 166, 168; Štramberk, 413; Telč Castle, 358; Třeboň Castle, 348–349; Valtice Château, 433; Wallenstein Palace Garden (Prague), 80–81. See also Prague Castle

Castle Square (Prague): 86–87, 186, 188; art museums, 88–89

Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals

Catholic Church, in Prague: 179

CDW insurance: 485–486

Celetná Street (Prague): 32, 40, 56–57, 108, 110; shopping, 231, 236

Cell (mobile) phones: 26, 476–478. See also Apps

Ceramics: 231, 366–367, 370

Ceremonial Hall (Prague): 130–131

Černín Palace (Prague): 92–93

Černý, David: 58, 71, 153, 445

Červené Blato: 351

České Budějovice: 336, 339

Český Krumlov: 311–339; eating, 335–336; helpful hints, 314–315; as home base, 12; layout of, 312, 314; map, 313; planning tips, 312; self-guided walks, 315–321; sights/activities, 321–332; sleeping, 332–334; tourist information, 314; tours, 315; transportation, 314, 336–339

Český Krumlov Card: 314

Český Krumlov Main Square: 317–318

Český Krumlov Museum of Regional History: 317, 327

Český Krumlov Synagogue: 326–327

Changing of the guard, in Prague: 86, 171–172

Chapel of the Holy Cross (Karlštejn Castle): 297

Chapel of the Holy Cross (Prague): 171

Charles Bridge (Prague): 54, 60–61, 117–120; history of, 119, 120; map, 98–99; self-guided walk, 116–121; views of, 117, 120–121

Charles IV: 57, 76, 84, 105, 116–117, 119, 132, 137, 138–139, 180–181, 297, 436–437; statue of, in Prague, 116–117

Charles Square (Prague), 74; (Třebíč), 361–362

Charles University (Prague): 57, 109, 110

Châteaux: See Castles and palaces

Chrám Sv. Barbory (Kutná Hora): 266–267, 273–274

Christmas markets: 495

Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 440; sightseeing tips, 461–462; Bethlehem Chapel (Prague), 57–58; Bone Church (Sedlec), 271–272; Dean Church (Třeboň), 347–348; Loreta Church (Prague), 55, 92, 93–94; Sacred Heart Church (Prague), 249; St. Barbara’s Cathedral (Kutná Hora), 266–267, 273–274; St. George Basilica (Prague), 88, 183–184; St. James Church (Prague), 56, 107–108; St. Mary Magdalene (Karlovy Vary), 307; St. Mary of the Snows Church (Prague), 155–156; St. Mary’s Basilica (Sedlec), 272–273; St. Mary the Victorious Church (Prague), 83–84; St. Michael’s Church (Olomouc), 402; St. Moritz’s Church (Olomouc), 402; St. Nicholas Church (Prague), 78–80, 100; St. Procopius Basilica (Třebíč), 363–364; Sts. Peter and Paul Basilica (Prague), 196; St. Vitus Cathedral (Prague), 55, 87, 174–180; St. Vitus Church (Český Krumlov), 317; St. Wenceslas’ Cathedral (Olomouc), 403–404; St. Wenceslas Church (Mikulov), 420–421; Týn Church (Prague), 52–53, 56, 100–101, 105–106

Cihelna Street (Prague): 82

Cimrman, Jára: 77, 444, 449

Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 490

Climate: 18, 500

Clock Bridge (Český Krumlov): 320–321

Clothing sizes: 498–499

Cold War Museum (Prague): 54, 65–66, 150

Column of the Holy Trinity (Mikulov), 420; (Olomouc), 396–397

Comenius, John Amos: 400–401, 444

Communism: 6, 68, 148–149, 443–446; Cold War Museum (Prague), 54, 65–66, 150; Memorial (Kutná Hora), 270; Monument to Victims of Communism (Prague), 84; Museum of Communism (Prague), 55, 67–69

Concerts, in Prague: 243–244

Congress Center (Prague): 190

Coreth, Peter: 373

Corpus Christi Church (Slavonice): 367, 369

Costs of trip: 23

Covid-19, entry requirements: 452

Credit cards: 26, 454–458, 486

Crowns, Czech: 437, 454–455

Cruises: See Boat cruises

Crystal: Moser Glassworks (Karlovy Vary), 310; Prague, 114, 231, 235–236; Rückl Glassworks (Nižbor), 236, 300

Cuisine: 406–407, 472–474. See also Eating

Cultural Bridge Fratres: 373

Currency and exchange: 437, 454–457

Customs regulations: 460

Czech Communist Party: 68

Czech dumplings (knedlíky): 473

Czech language: See Language

Czech Museum of Silver (Kutná Hora): 268, 271, 275–276

Czech National Bank (Prague): 113

Czech Philharmonic: 244

Czech president, offices of, in Prague: 174

Czech Republic: almanac, 437; best 12-day trip by bus and train, 20; best day trips, 15–16; best home bases, 12, 14; best two-week trip by car, 19; history, 436–448; map, 11; overview, 5–10. See also specific destinations

Czech restaurant phrases: 504

Czech survival phrases: 503

D

Dancing House (Prague): 48, 73, 199

Danube River: 424

Day trips: 15–16, 262–310

Dean Church (Třeboň): 347–348

Debit cards: 26, 454–458

Děkanský Kostel (Třeboň): 347–348

Denisova (Olomouc): 402

Děvín Hill: 416, 425

Dicker-Brandeis, Friedl: 281

Diet Hall (Prague): 182

Discounts: See Money-saving tips

Dívčí Hrady: 425, 427

Dlouhá Street (Prague): eating, 218; shopping, 238

Dobrá Čajovna: Český Krumlov, 336; Kutná Hora, 277; Prague, 228

Dolní Náměstí (Olomouc): 400–402

Dóm Sv. Václava (Olomouc): 403–404

Drinopol (Prague): 50

Driving: See Car travel

Drugstores: See Pharmacies

Dubček, Alexander: 147, 151, 445

Dumplings, Czech (knedlíky): 473

Dušní street (Prague): 238

Dvořák, Antonín: 197, 244, 247, 444; Museum (Prague), 247

Dvořák Prague Music Festival: 241, 494

Dyje River: 430, 432

Dynamic currency conversion: 457

E

Eating: 470–475; budgeting, 23; tipping, 212, 472; Czech restaurant phrases, 504; money-saving tips, 24; Prague, 211–229; tipping, 458–459. See also specific destinations

Economy of Czech Republic: 437

Egon Schiele Art Center (Český Krumlov): 325–326

Electricity: 454

Elisabeth Spa (Karlovy Vary): 309

Eliška Plaque (Prague): 196–197

Elišky Krásnohorské street (Prague): 238

Embassies: 453

Emergencies: 453; Prague, 37

Entertainment: Olomouc, 405; Prague, 241–250; current schedule, 36, 241; map, 242; tickets, 241. See also Music; Pubs; Theater

Environmental footprint (going green): 454

Estates Theater (Prague): 57, 110, 245

ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization: System), 452–453

Events: See Festivals

F

Fairy Tale House (Český Krumlov): 327

Fajans Majolica (Prague): 231

Fashion, shopping for, in Prague: 237–238

Festival of Song (Olomouc): 405

Festivals: 493–495; Český Krumlov, 314–315, 494; Kroměříž, 410; Olomouc, 405; Telč, 356. See also specific festivals

Films, recommended: 496–497

Fishing: 349, 351, 370–371

“Fishlets”: 240

Five-Petalled Rose Celebration (Český Krumlov): 314–315, 494

Flag, Czech: 437

Food: See Cuisine; Eating; Markets

Food tours, in Prague: 214

Forman, Miloš: 445, 497

Fountains of Olomouc: 398

Franciscan Garden (Prague): 154–155

Franz Ferdinand, Archduke: 288, 291–295

Fratres, Austria: 373

“Fred and Ginger” House (Prague): 48, 73, 199

French-Czech Music Academy (Telč): 356

Fresco House (Slavonice): 368

Freud, Sigmund: 58, 135, 153

Funiculars: Karlovy Vary, 306; Prague, 84

G

Galerie Michael (Prague): 234

Garnets, in Prague: 236–237

GASK (Kutná Hora): 268, 274–275

Gehry, Frank: 48, 73, 199

Germans in Czechoslovakia: 324–325

Gerron, Kurt: 284

Ginz, Petr: 283, 284

Glassware: See Crystal

Glockenspiel show, in Prague: 104

Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von: 310

Golden Gate (Prague): 180–181

Golden Lane (Prague): 88, 184

Golem: 133

Google Maps: 37

Google Translate: 28, 454

Government: 437, 448, 450–451

Grand Café Orient (Prague): 108, 227

Grand Hotel Evropa (Prague): 150

Grandhotel Pupp (Karlovy Vary): 306

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 490

Guides: See Tour guides

Gutenberg Printing House Museum (Kutná Hora): 268, 276

Gypsies (Roma) in Central Europe: 330, 362

H

Hašek, Dominik: 252, 445

Havel, Václav: 6, 58, 89, 114, 152, 302, 445, 446, 496; biographical sketch, 154–155

Havelská Market (Prague): 54, 57, 114–115, 212, 231, 240

Havelská Street (Prague): 231

Havlícek, Karel: 270

Havlícek Square (Kutná Hora): 270

“Hedgehog in the cage”: 239

Hellichova (Prague): 49

Heydrich, Reinhard: 55, 74, 75

Hidden Synagogue (Terezín): 286

Highlands Museum (Telč): 358–359

Hiking (walking): Český Krumlov, 328; Karlštejn Castle, 297–298; Krivoklát Castle, 300, 303; Landštejn Castle, 373; Lány, 303; Loket, 310; Mikulov Hills, 423–425; Nižbor, 300–302; Pálava Hills, 429; Pustevny, 415; Slavonice, 369, 370–371, 373; Srbsko, 298; Třeboň, 349–350

Hill of the Cross (Český Krumlov): 328

History: 436–448

Hlavní Nádraží Station (Prague): 254–256

Hluboká Castle: 338

Hockey, in Prague: 251, 252

Holešovice Train Station (Prague): 253, 257

Holidays: 493–495

Holy House (Prague): 93–94

Holy Trinity Column (Mikulov), 420; (Olomouc), 396–397

Horní Bridge (Český Krumlov): 316

Horní Hrad (Český Krumlov): 323

Horní Náměstí (Olomouc), 396–397, 399; (Slavonice), 367

Horní Street (Český Krumlov): 317

Hospitals, in Prague: 37

Hostels: 470; Český Krumlov, 334; Olomouc, 406; Prague, 207–210

Hotels: See Sleeping

Hotel Růže (Český Krumlov): 317

Hotel Thermal (Karlovy Vary): 308

Hotel u Prince (Prague): 38, 219

Hot Spring Colonnade (Karlovy Vary): 307

Hot springs: See Spas

House by the Bell (Prague): 100

House of Nature (Třeboň): 349

House of the Black Madonna (Prague): 56–57, 108, 227, 239

House of the Golden Ring (Prague): 56

Hradčany (Prague): See Castle Quarter

Hrádek Castle (Kutná Hora): 267, 275–276

Hrad Landštejn (Slavonice): 372–373

Hunger Wall (Prague): 84

Hus, Jan: 52, 102, 105, 141, 438, 444; Memorial (Prague), 52, 96–99

Hybernia Theater (Prague): 113

I

Ice cream: 224, 227, 408

Ice hockey, in Prague: 251, 252

Image Theater (Prague): 71, 243

Imperial Spa (Karlovy Vary): 306–307

Indians and Czechs: 59

Infant of Prague: 83–84

Inn at the White Horse (Třeboň): 346

Internet security: 477

Italian Court (Kutná Hora): 270–271

Itineraries: See Planning tips

J

Jágr, Jaromír: 251, 252, 445

Jalta Hotel (Prague): 150

Janáček, Leoš: 247

Jan Becher Museum (Karlovy Vary): 309–310

Jan Hus Memorial (Prague): 52, 96–99

Jazz: 71, 247–248, 405

Jerusalem Synagogue (Prague): 66–67

Jewelry, in Prague: 236–237

Jewish Cemetery: Mikulov, 422–423; Prague, 62, 129–130; Terezín Memorial, 286; Třebíč, 363

Jewish Ghetto (Třebíč): 361, 362–363

Jewish heritage, in Prague: 124–126

Jewish Museum in Prague: 61–62

Jewish Quarter (Prague): 32, 54, 61–63, 122–135; background, 124–126; eating, 218–219; guided tours, 45; map, 125; self-guided walk, 126–135; sights, 61–63

Jihlava: 358–359

John of Nepomuk, Saint: 106, 118–119, 178, 318

Josefov (Prague): See Jewish Quarter

Jungmann, Josef: 156

Jungmann Square (Prague): 156

K

Kafka, Franz: 71, 135, 445, 496

Kampa Island (Prague): 82–83

Kampa Square (Prague): 82–83; eating, 212

Karlova Street (Prague): 32, 58, 115, 234

Karlovo Náměstí (Prague), 74; (Třebíč), 361–362

Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad): 16, 264, 304–310; planning tips, 304; sights, 305–310; tourist information, 305; transportation, 305

Karlovy Vary International Film Festival: 306, 309

Karlštejn Castle: 16, 264, 295–298

Karlův Most (Prague): See Charles Bridge

Katedrála sv. Víta (Prague): 55, 87, 174–180; map, 175; self-guided tour, 174–180

Kavárna Slavia (Prague): 72, 228

Kepler, Johannes: 50, 110, 438

Kinský Palace (Prague): 100

“Kitchen witches”: 240

Kiwi Map Store (Prague): 239

Klášterní Pivovar (Prague): 91, 221

Klausen Synagogue (Prague): 62, 131

Klementinum (Prague): 54, 58–60, 115

Klentnice: 425, 429

Klet Mountain: 316

Konopiště Castle: 15, 264, 291–295, 338

Kostel Panny Marie Vítězné (Prague): 83–84

Kostel Sv. Jakuba (Prague): 56, 107–108

Kostel Sv. Mikuláše (Prague): 55, 78–80, 100

Kostnice v Sedlci: 271–272

Kozí Hrádek (Mikulov): 424

Kraków: guided tours, 259

Královská Zahrada (Prague): 89

Královský Letohrádek (Prague): 50

Krivoklát Castle: 16, 264, 298–300; hiking, 300, 303

Krivoklát Forests: 300–302

Křížový Vrch (Český Krumlov): 328

Kroměříž: 409–411

Kroměříž Music Summer Festival: 410

Krtek: 9, 239, 498

Krumlov Castle (Český Krumlov): 318–325

Krumlov Castle Museum (Český Krumlov): 322–323

Kundera, Milan: 445, 496

Kutná Hora: 15, 262–277; eating, 276–277; maps, 263, 266–267; planning tips, 265; self-guided walk, 266–271; sights, 271–276; sleeping, 276–277; tourist information, 265; transportation, 264, 265, 277

Kutna Hora Stone Fountain: 268–269

Kutná Hora Stone House: 269

L

Landštejn Castle (Slavonice): 372–373

Language: 28; Czech place names, 484; online translation tip, 454; restaurant phrases, 504; survival phrases, 503

Language barrier: 478–479

Lány: 302–303

Lány Castle: 302–303

Laundry, in Prague: 38–39

Lazebnicky Most (Český Krumlov): 318

Lednice: 430–435; sights, 431–433

Lednice Château: 431–433

Lendl, Ivan: 445

Lennon Wall (Prague): 83

Lesser Town (Prague): 33, 77–85; at a glance, 55; eating, 219–221; maps, 78–79, 204–205; music clubs, 248; sights, 77–85; sleeping, 203, 206

Lesser Town Square (Prague): 77–78

Letná Beer Garden (Prague): 249

Litoměřice: 289–291

Litoměřice Church Museum: 289–290

Litoměřice Town Hall: 289

Little Quarter (Prague): See Lesser Town

Live music: See Music

Lobkowicz Palace (Prague): 55, 88, 184–185

Loew ben Bezalel, Judah: 419

Loket: 310

Loreta Church (Prague): 55, 92, 93–94

Loreta Square (Prague): 92–93

Lower Square (Olomouc): 400–402

Lucerna Arcade (Prague): 64, 153

Lucerna Music Bar (Prague): 153, 246–247

Ludmila, Saint: 88, 120, 176–177, 183, 184

Luther, Martin: 52, 102, 438

Lužnice River: 351–352

M

Mácha, Karel Hynek: 290

Magdeburg Barracks (Terezín Memorial): 284–285

Magic Praha (Prague): 39

Mahler, Gustav: 247, 359, 399, 408

Mail: 478

Maisel Synagogue (Prague): 61–62, 126–127

Majdalena: 351–352

Malá Strana (Prague): See Lesser Town

Malostranská (Prague): 49

Man and the Landscape Exhibit (Třeboň): 349

Mánes Bridge (Prague): 82

Man Hanging Out (Prague): 58

Manufaktura (Prague): 237

Maps: apps, 37, 460, 486–487; Prague, 37–38, 239. See also Map Index

Maříž: 367, 370

Mariánská Street (Olomouc): 403

Marionettes: See Puppets

Market Colonnade (Karlovy Vary): 307

Markets: Kutná Hora, 269; Olomouc, 401–402; Prague, 54, 76, 108, 114–115, 212, 214, 231, 249–250; Třebíč, 361–362

Martinický Palace (Prague): 188

Masaryk, Jan: 92

Masaryk, Tomáš Garrigue: 76, 86, 92, 159, 186, 270, 303, 442, 444; biographical sketch, 187; Museum (Lány), 303

Masaryka street (Karlovy Vary): 309–310

Masaryk Square (Třeboň): 346–347

Massages: 37, 352

Medical help: 453; Prague, 37

Medieval Art, Museum of (Prague): 63, 136–143; orientation, 54, 63, 136–137; the tour, 137–143

Melantrichova Street (Prague): 40, 57, 104–105, 114

Memorial to Jan Hus (Prague): 52, 96–99

Memorial to Soviet Soldiers (Terezín Memorial): 286

Memorial to the Victims of 1969 (Prague): 149

Metric system: 498–499

Metro (Prague): 42, 255–256; tickets, 40–41

Michalská Street (Prague): 231

Mike’s Chauffeur Service (Prague): 259

Mikulov: 419–427; eating, 426; sights/activities, 420–425; sleeping, 425; tourist information, 420; transportation, 420, 426–427

Mikulov Château: 421

Mikulov Hills: 423–425

Mikulov Main Square: 420–421

Mikulov Synagogue: 421–422

Mikulov Wine Region: 416–427; helpful hints, 418–419; as home base, 14, 417; map, 418; transportation, 417–418; wines, 422–423, 428, 433

Miniatures, Museum of (Prague): 91

Minimarkets, in Prague: 39, 212, 214

Mirror maze, in Prague: 85

Mobile phones: 26, 476–478. See also Apps

Modernista (Prague): 70, 239

Moldau: See Vltava River

Money: 454–459; average daily expenses, 23; budgeting, 23

Money-saving tips: 23–24, 454; Český Krumlov, 314; Prague, 36; sleeping, 23–24, 463–464

Monument to Victims of Communism (Prague): 84

Moravské Divadlo (Olomouc): 405

Moravský Krumlov: 376–389; eating, 389; planning tips, 377; sights, 378–389; sleeping, 389; tourist information, 377; transportation, 376–377, 389

Moser (Prague): 231, 236

Moser Glassworks (Karlovy Vary): 310

Movies, recommended: 496–497

Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus: 110, 185, 194, 245, 246; Museum (Prague), 246

Mucha, Alfons: 76, 87, 112, 158–164, 442, 444–445; biographical sketch, 378–380; St. Vitus Cathedral, 87, 176–177. See also Mucha Museum; Slav Epic

Mucha (Muchovo) Museum (Prague): 66, 158–164; map, 160; orientation, 55, 66, 158; the tour, 159–164

Municipal House (Prague): 54, 69–70, 111–113; eating, 223–224

Museum Fotoateliér Seidel (Český Krumlov): 326

Museum Humanum (Fratres): 373

Museum Kampa (Prague): 82–83

Museum of Communism (Prague): 55, 67–69

Museum of Fortifications (Slavonice): 370

Museum of Medieval Art (Prague): 63, 136–143; orientation, 54, 63, 136–137; the tour, 137–143

Museum of Miniatures (Prague): 91

Museum of Modern Art (Olomouc): 403

Museum of Regional History (Český Krumlov): 317, 327

Museum of the Ghetto (Terezín Memorial): 283–284

Museum of the Iron Curtain (Valtice): 434

Museum of 20th Century History (Slavonice): 369

Music: Kroměříž, 410; Olomouc, 405; Prague, 241, 243–248; current schedule, 241; shopping for, 248; tickets, 241. See also Concerts, in Prague; Jazz

Music festivals: 494–495; Český Krumlov, 314–315, 494; Kroměříž, 410; Olomouc, 405; Prague, 241; Telč, 356

Můstek (Prague): 71, 156–157

Muzeum Komunismu (Prague): 55, 67–69

Muzeum Miniatur (Prague): 91

N

Náměstí Míru (Slavonice): 367, 368–369

Náměstí Republiky (Olomouc), 403; (Prague), 67, 214

Náměstí Svornosti (Český Krumlov): 317–318

Náplavka (Prague): 214, 249

Na Příkopě (Prague): 40, 67, 113; shopping, 231, 234; sights, 67–70

Náprstek Museum (Prague): 59

Národní Divadlo (Prague): See National Theater

Národní Muzeum (Prague): 64–65

Národní Trída (Prague): 48, 70–72, 249; shopping, 234; tram, 48–49

National Cemetery (Prague): 197

National Gallery (Prague): 88–89, 100, 136, 184–185

National Library (Prague): 54, 58–60

National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror (Prague): 55, 74

National Museum (Prague): 64–65, 148

National Theater (Prague): 48, 72, 245, 249; eating near, 72, 220, 228

Native Americans (Indians) and Czechs: 59

Natural Science Museum (Olomouc): 403

Navrátilová, Martina: 445, 449

Neruda, Jan: 80

Nerudova Street (Prague): 49, 80, 86; shopping, 234–235, 240

New Town (Prague): 32, 63–76; at a glance, 54–55; eating, 222–224, 227–228; maps, 65, 208–209; music clubs, 246–248; sights, 63–76; sleeping, 206–207. See also Wenceslas Square

Nightlife: See Entertainment; Music; Pubs

Nižbor: 300–302

Nižbor Castle: 300

Nová Scéna (Prague): 72

Nové Město (Prague): See New Town

Nové Mlýny Reservoir: 428

O

O2 Arena (Prague): 252

Obecní Dům (Prague): See Municipal House

Obřadní Síň (Prague): 62, 130–131

Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague): 62, 129–130

Old-New Synagogue (Prague): 62–63, 131–133

Old Royal Palace (Prague): 55, 87, 181–182

Old Town (Český Krumlov): 312, 314; eating, 335–336; map, 313; self-guided walk, 315–318; sleeping, 332–333

Old Town (Prague): 32, 52–63; at a glance, 54; eating, 214–219, 227; guided tours, 44–45; maps, 53, 98–99, 201, 213–314; music clubs, 245–246; self-guided walk, 95–121; sights, 52–63, 136–143; sleeping, 200–202; tourist information, 36. See also Jewish Quarter

Old Town Hall (Prague): 52, 101, 104–105

Old Town Square (Prague): 38, 52, 54, 96, 99–103; eating, 211–212, 212, 219; information, 36; map, 100; sporting events, 252

Old Vyšehrad Map (Prague): 190–191

Olomouc: 390–409; eating, 406–408; entertainment, 405; helpful hints, 394–395; history of, 393; as home base, 14; maps, 391, 394–395; planning tips, 392; sights, 396–404; sleeping, 405–406; tourist information, 392; transportation, 392–394, 395–396, 408–409

Olomouc Baroque Fountains: 398

Olomouc cheese sticks: 406

Olomouc Town Hall: 397, 399

Olomouc Upper Square: 396–397, 399

Opera: 244–245, 405

P

Packing tips and checklist: 26, 501

Palác Akropolis (Prague): 248, 250

Palaces: See Castles and palaces

Palach, Jan: 64, 147, 149, 493

Palacký, František: 74, 76, 439

Palacký Square (Kutná Hora), 269; (Prague), 74, 76, 199

Palacký University (Olomouc): 391, 402–403

Pálava Hills: 423–425, 427, 429

Palladium (Prague): 38, 234

Palm Greenhouse (Lednice): 431–432

Pařížská (Prague): 100, 238

Parting of the Roses: 319, 358

Passports: 25, 27, 453

Paulus Winery (Pavlov): 428

Pavlov: 427–429

Peace Square (Slavonice): 367, 368–369

Peat Spa (Třeboň): 352

Pensions (guesthouses): overview, 466–467. See also specific destinations

Petřín Hill (Prague): 55, 84–85; eating, 224

Petřín Tower (Prague): 84–85, 92

Pfaffenschlag: 371

Pharmacies: Olomouc, 394; Prague, 38; Slavonice, 368

Pickpockets: See Theft alerts

Pinkasova Synagóga (Prague): 62, 127, 129

Pinkas Synagogue (Prague): 62, 127, 129

Pivnice U Sadu (Prague): 225, 250

Pivovar Český Krumlov Brewery: 316, 327–328

Plague columns: Český Krumlov, 318; Olomouc, 396–397; Prague, 188; Telč, 357; Třeboň, 346

Planning tips: Český Krumlov, 312; Karlovy Vary, 304; Kutná Hora, 265; Moravský Krumlov, 377; Olomouc, 392; Prague, 30–31; southern Czech towns, 341–342; Terezín Memorial, 279; Třeboň, 344

Plečnik, Jože: 181, 185–186

Plešivecká (Český Krumlov): 333–334, 336

Pohořelec (Prague): 50

Pond-Building Heritage Museum (Třeboň): 347

Pony Ranch (Mikulov): 424

Population of Czech Republic: 437

Post offices: 478

Powder Bridge (Prague): 169, 171–172

Powder Tower (Prague): 57, 70, 110–111

Prague: 30–259; at a glance, 54–55; best views, 38, 212; daily reminder, 46; day trips, 15–16, 262–310; eating, 211–229; embassies, 453; entertainment, 241–250; helpful hints, 36–39; as home base, 12; neighborhoods, 32–33, 36; planning tips, 30–31; rip-offs in, 36–37; self-guided tram tour, 47–50; shopping, 230–240; sights, 51–199; sleeping, 200–210; tourist information, 36; tours, 39, 44–47; transportation, 36, 39–43, 253–259. See also specific neighborhoods

Prague Castle: 50, 85–88, 117, 165–188; best views, 38; crowd-beating tips, 51, 167–170; evening activities, 51; maps, 166–167, 172–173; orientation, 55, 86, 170–171; planning tips, 167–170; sights, 86–88; the tour, 171–188; traveling to, 86, 165–167

Prague Castle Orchestra: 244

Prague CoolPass: 36

Prague Food Festival: 494

Prague Guide: 36

Prague International Marathon: 252, 494

Prague Main Train Station: 254–256

Prague Old Town Hall: 52, 104–105

Prague Pole Vault: 252

Prague Proms: 241, 494

Prague Spring: 114, 147

“Prague Spring” Music Festival: 241, 494

Prague Symphony Orchestra: 244

Prague to Her Victorious Sons Monument: 76

Pramen (Třeboň): 346

Pražský Hrad (Prague): See Prague Castle

Preciosa House of Czech Crystal (Prague): 114

Princip, Gavrilo: 288, 294

Private guides: See Tour guides

Private rooms: 464–465, 467–470. See also specific destinations

Pubs: Český Krumlov, 335; Kutná Hora, 277; Nižbor, 302; Olomouc, 407; Prague, 226, 249, 250; Třeboň, 354

Puppet Museum (Český Krumlov): 327

Puppets, in Prague: 234–235

Pustevny: 414–415

R

Radio Free Europe (RFE): 64, 92, 148–149

Rafting: Český Krumlov, 328–329, 331; Pavlov, 428; Třeboň, 351–352

Rail passes: 25, 481, 490

Rail travel: See Train travel

Ramparts Garden (Prague): 185–186

Rear Synagogue (Třebíč): 362–363

Reduta Jazz Club (Prague): 71, 247–248

Regent Brewery (Třeboň): 350, 352

Reisten (Pavlov): 428

Rental properties: 464–465, 467–470

Republic Square (Olomouc), 403; (Prague), 67, 214

Resources from Rick Steves: 489–491

Restaurants: See Eating

Řetĕzová Street (Prague): 227

Roma (Gypsies) in Central Europe: 330, 362

Rotunda of St. Martin (Prague): 191

Round Tower (Český Krumlov): 322–323

Royal Gardens (Prague): 89, 169

Royal Mausoleum (Prague): 177

Royal Summer Palace (Prague): 50, 89, 166, 168

Royal Town (Olomouc): 392, 396–402

Royal Way (Prague): 33

Rožmberk: 331–332

Rožmberk Lake: 351

Rožnov pod Radhoštěm: 413–414

Rückl Glassworks (Nižbor): 236, 300

Rudolfinum (Prague): 244, 248

Ruzyně Airport (Prague): See Václav Havel Airport

S

Sacred Heart Church (Prague): 249

St. Agnes Convent (Prague): 63, 141–142

St. Barbara’s Cathedral (Kutná Hora): 266–267, 273–274

St. George Basilica (Prague): 88, 183–184

St. James Church (Prague): 56, 107–108

St. Martin Rotunda (Prague): 191

St. Mary Magdalene (Karlovy Vary): 307

St. Mary of the Snows Church (Prague): 155–156

St. Mary’s Basilica (Sedlec): 272–273

St. Mary the Victorious Church (Prague): 83–84

St. Michael’s Church (Olomouc): 402

St. Moritz’s Church (Olomouc): 402

St. Nicholas Church (Prague): 78–80, 100

Sts. Peter and Paul Basilica (Prague): 196

St. Procopius Basilica (Třebíč): 363–364

St. Vitus Cathedral (Prague): 55, 87, 174–180; map, 175; self-guided tour, 174–180

St. Vitus Church (Český Krumlov): 317

St. Wenceslas’ Cathedral (Olomouc): 403–404

St. Wenceslas Church (Mikulov): 420–421

Santa Casa (Prague): 93–94

Schiele (Egon) Art Center (Český Krumlov): 325–326, 327

Schwarzenberg Palace (Prague): 88–89, 186, 188

Seasons: 18

Sedlec Bone Church: 271–272

Seidel Photo Studio Museum (Český Krumlov): 326

Seligmann Bauer House (Třebíč): 363

Shakespeare and Sons (Prague): 37, 82, 239

Shopping: clothing sizes, 498–499; hours, 453–454; Nižbor, 300; Prague, 230–240; map, 232–233; Slavonice, 370; VAT refunds, 459. See also Crystal; Markets

Sightseeing: best day trips, 15–16; best home bases, 12, 14; best trips, 19–20; designing an itinerary, 17–18, 21; general tips, 460–462; maps and navigation tools, 460; reservations, 25. See also specific sights and destinations

Silver, Czech Museum of (Kutná Hora): 268, 271, 275–276

SIM cards: 477

Skiing, in Pustevny: 414–415

SK Slavia: 250, 252

Slav Epic (Mucha): 162, 378–389, 442; background, 378–380; self-guided tour, 380–389; and World War I, 384

Slavonice: 339, 342, 365–376; eating, 376; helpful hints, 368; map, 366; shopping, 370; sights/activities, 368–374; sleeping, 374–375; tourist information, 367; transportation, 367–368, 376

Slavonice Peace Square: 367, 368–369

Slavonice Town Museum: 368

Slavonice Underground Passages: 368–369

Sleep code: 463

Sleeping: 462–470; budgeting, 23; money-saving tips, 23–24, 463–464; online services, 464–465; Prague, 200–210; reservations, 23, 25, 468–469; types of accommodations, 464–470. See also specific destinations

Slovanský Ostrov (Prague): 73

Small Market Square (Prague): 115, 231

Smartphones: 26, 476–478. See also Apps

Smetana, Bedřich: 72, 191, 197, 246, 388, 442; Museum (Prague), 246

Smetana Gardens (Karlovy Vary): 308–309

Smetana Hall (Prague): 69, 244

Smíšek Chapel (Kutná Hora): 274

Smoking: 212, 472

Soccer, in Prague: 250, 252

Southern Czech towns: 12, 340–376; map, 341; planning tips, 341–342; transportation, 340–341. See also specific towns

Souvenirs, shopping for, in Prague: 239–240

Spanish Synagogue (Prague): 62, 134–135

Spas: Karlovy Vary, 306–309; Olomouc, 394, 407; Třeboň, 352

Special events: See Festivals

Sports, in Prague: 250–252

Srbsko: 298

Staroměstské Náměstí (Prague): See Old Town Square

Staronová Synagóga (Prague): 62–63, 131–133

Starý Královský Palác (Prague): 55, 87, 181–182

Starý Židovský Hřbitov (Prague): 62, 129–130

State Opera (Prague): 149, 245

Stavovské Divadlo (Prague): 57, 110, 245

Štefánik, Milan Rastislav: 85

Štěpánek Netolický House (Třeboň): 347

Sternberg Palace (Prague): 88–89

Stolová Hora (Mikulov): 424

Stone Fountain (Kutná Hora): 268–269

Stone House (Kutná Hora): 269

Story of Prague Castle Exhibit: 88, 182–183

Strahov Monastery and Library (Prague): 55, 90–91, 168–169

Strahov Monastery Gardens (Prague): 91–92

Štramberk: 412–413

Střelecký Ostrov (Prague): 73

Subway: See Metro

Suchdol: 351–352

Sudetenland Defenses (Slavonice): 371–372, 374–375, 442

Svatováclavský Pivovar (Olomouc): 394, 407

Svatý Jan pod Skalou: 298

Světozor Mall (Prague): 64, 153–154

Swimming: 73, 351

Synagogues: about, 128; Český Krumlov Synagogue, 326–327; Jerusalem Synagogue (Prague), 66–67; Klausen Synagogue (Prague), 62, 131; Maisel Synagogue (Prague), 61–62, 126–127; Mikulov Synagogue, 421–422; Old-New Synagogue (Prague), 62–63, 131–133; Pinkas Synagogue (Prague), 62, 127, 129; Rear Synagogue (Třebíč), 362–363; Spanish Synagogue (Prague), 62, 134–135; Terezín Hidden Synagogue, 286

T

Tábor: 338

Tančící Dům (Prague): 48, 50, 73, 199

Taxes: VAT refunds, 459

Taxis: 482; Prague, 42–43, 256, 259; tipping, 459. See also specific destinations

Teahouses: Český Krumlov, 336; Kutná Hora, 277; Olomouc, 408; Prague, 228–229

Telč: 339, 342, 355–360; eating, 360; helpful hints, 356; as home base, 12; sights, 356–359; sleeping, 359–360; tourist information, 356; transportation, 356, 360; walking tour, 356–358

Telč Castle: 358

Telč Main Square: 356–358

Telč Town Hall: 357

Telč Vacations Festival: 356

Telephones: 476–478

Temperatures, average monthly: 500

Templová street (Prague): 108

Teplá River: 305

Terezín Children’s Art Exhibit (Prague): 129

Terezín Hidden Synagogue: 286

Terezín Memorial: 15, 264, 278–289; background, 280–282; eating, 279; guided tours, 279; map, 280–281; orientation, 279; planning tips, 279; self-guided tour, 282–289; transportation, 278–279, 289

Terezín Prison Camp: 287–289

T.G. Masaryk Museum (Lány): 303

Theater: Český Krumlov, 321, 322, 323–324; Olomouc, 405; Prague, 241, 243

Theater on the Balustrade (Prague): 58

Theft alerts: 27, 453, 458; Prague, 36–37

Time zones: 453

Tipping: 212, 458–459, 472

Tiree Chmelar Herb Garden (Valtice): 433

Toskánský Palace (Prague): 188

Tour guides: Prague, 44–45, 259. See also specific destinations

Tourist information: 453; Prague, 36. See also specific destinations

Tours: Prague, 39, 44–47; Rick Steves, 490. See also specific destinations

Train stations, in Prague: 253–257

Train travel: 480–481; best 12-day trip, 20; budgeting, 23; map, 482–483; Prague, 253–257. See also specific destinations

Trams: Olomouc, 395–396; Prague, 40–42, 256; self-guided tram tour (tram #22), 47–50

Transportation: 479–489; budgeting, 23; map, 482–483; Prague, 39–43, 253–259; pre-booking, 25. See also Air travel; Buses; Car travel; Taxis; Train travel; Trams

Travel advisories: 452

Travel insurance: 26, 455, 486

Travel smarts: 27–28

Travel tips: 452–454

Třebíč: 342, 361–365; eating, 364; sights, 361–364; sleeping, 364; tourist information, 361; transportation, 361, 365

Třeboň: 339, 342–355; eating, 353–354; helpful hints, 345; map, 343; planning tips, 344; sights/activities, 345–352; sleeping, 352–353; tourist information, 345; transportation, 345, 355

Třeboň Castle: 348–349

Třeboň City Wall: 349–350

Třeboň lakes: 350, 351, 353

Třeboň Town Hall Tower: 346

Trip costs: 23

Trubáček, Kryštof: 366–367

Turold Hill (Mikulov): 423, 424

Turtle Fountain (Olomouc): 398

Twenty-Seven Crosses (Prague): 101, 103

Týn Church (Prague): 52–53, 56, 100–101, 105–106

U

Uber: 482; Prague, 42–43, 256, 259

Újezd (Prague): 48–49

Underground Passages (Slavonice): 368–369

Ungelt Courtyard (Prague): 56, 106–107, 230–231

Upper Castle (Český Krumlov): 323

Upper Square (Olomouc): 396–397, 399

Úvaly: 435

V

Václav Havel Airport (Prague): 258–259

Václavské Náměstí (Prague): See Wenceslas Square

Valašsko: See Wallachia

Valtice: 430–435; sights, 433

Valtice Château: 433

Valtice Underground: 433

VAT refunds: 459

Velvet Divorce: 448

Velvet Revolution: 71, 114, 151–153, 446

Via Musica (Prague): 101, 106, 241, 248

Vienna: guided tours, 259

Vietnamese Market (Kutná Hora): 269

Villa America (Prague): 247

Villa Bertramka (Prague): 246

Villa Daniela (Úvaly): 435

Villa Richter (Prague): 38, 212, 221

Vinohrady (Prague): 33, 249–250; eating, 225; shopping, 239; sleeping, 210

Virgin Mary: 97–98, 107–108, 397, 420

Visitor information: 453; Prague, 36. See also specific destinations

Vitus, Saint: 178, 183. See also St. Vitus Cathedral

Vladislav Hall (Prague): 181–182

Vltava River: 32, 49, 60–61, 73, 76, 82, 117, 198, 214, 311, 312; beach, 73; boating, 47, 73, 328–329, 331; canoeing and rafting, 328–329, 331; cruises, 46–47; islands, 73; views of, from Vyšehrad, 191–194

Vojanovy Sady (Prague): 82

Vojna Memorial (Příbram): 68

Vrtba Garden (Prague): 83

Vyšehrad (Prague): 33, 76, 189–199; map, 192–193; orientation, 55, 76, 189–190; self-guided walk, 190–199

Vyšehrad Gallery (Prague): 195

Výtoň (Prague): 198

W

Walking tours: Český Krumlov, 315–321; guided, 315; Kutná Hora, 266–271; Prague,: guided, 44; Jewish Quarter, 122–135; Old Town and Charles Bridge, 95–121; Prague Castle, 171–188; Vyšehrad, 189–199; Wenceslas Square, 144–157; Telč, 356–358

Wallachia: 14, 411–415; map, 391

Wallachian Open-Air Folk Museum: 413–414

Wallenstein Palace Garden (Prague): 80–81

Weather: 18, 500

Wenceslas, Saint: 117, 120, 142, 145–146, 178–180, 183, 444, 494

Wenceslas Chapel (Prague): 87, 178–180

Wenceslas Square (Prague): 54, 64, 114, 144–157; map, 65, 146; self-guided walk, 145–157; shopping, 238; sporting events, 252

Wine, Mikulov: 422–423, 428, 433, 475

Wine Salon of the Czech Republic (Valtice): 433

Winter Synagogue (Prague): 135

Wittingau: See Třeboň

World War I: 76, 145, 255, 324, 442; and Slav Epic, 384

World War II: 74, 126, 127, 145, 255, 324–325, 361, 374–375, 442–443; Slavonice, 366, 371–372, 374–375; Terezín Memorial, 278–289

Z

Zámecké Divadlo (Český Krumlov): 323–324

Zámek Lednice: 431–433

Zeman, Miloš: 450–451

Židovský Hřbitov: See Jewish Cemetery

Zítkovy Sady (Prague): 76

Žižkov (Prague): 33, 214, 249–250; eating, 225; music club, 248

Žižkov TV Tower (Prague): 38, 225, 250, 446

Zlabings: See Slavonice

Zlatá Koruna Monastery: 331–332

Zlatá Ulička (Prague): 88