EATING IN PRAGUE
Map: Restaurants in Prague’s Old Town
International Eateries and Bars
Dining with an Old Town Square View
Art Nouveau Splendor in the Municipal House
A big part of Prague’s charm is found in wandering aimlessly through the city’s winding old quarters, marveling at the architecture, watching the people, and sniffing out fun restaurants. You can eat well here for relatively little money. What you’d pay for a basic meal in Vienna or Munich will get you a memorable dining experience in Prague. In addition to meat-and-potatoes Czech cuisine, you’ll find trendy, student-oriented bars and some fine international eateries (in general, Indian and Italian food tends to be very good, Thai and Vietnamese mediocre, Chinese drowned in soy sauce). For ambience, the options include traditional, dark Czech beer halls; elegant Art Nouveau dining rooms; and modern cafés.
I’ve listed eating and drinking establishments by neighborhood. Most of the options—and highest prices—are in the Old Town. For a light meal, consider one of Prague’s many cafés. Many of the places listed here are handy for an efficient lunch but may not offer fine evening dining. Others make less sense for lunch but are great for a slow, drawn-out dinner. Read the descriptions to judge which is which.
Generally, if you walk just a few minutes away from the tourist flow, you’ll find better value, atmosphere, and service. The more touristy a place is, the more likely you’ll pay too much—either in inflated prices or because waiters pad the bill.
Several areas well situated for sightseeing are lined with touristy restaurants. While these places are not necessarily bad values, I’ve listed only a few of your many options—just survey the scene in these spots and choose whatever looks best. Kampa Square, just off the Charles Bridge, feels like a quiet, small-town square. Havelská Market is surrounded by a mix of fancy restaurants and cheap little eateries. The massive Old Town Square is the place to nurse a drink or enjoy a meal while watching the tide of people, both tourists and locals, sweep back and forth. There’s often some event on this main square, and its many restaurants provide tasty and relaxing—if overpriced—vantage points. Bethlehem Square, still part of the Old Town but away from the main tourist flow, is my choice for an atmospheric outdoor evening meal.
EATING TIPS
I rank eateries from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For more advice on eating in the Czech Republic, including ordering, tipping, pricing, budget meals, and Czech cuisine and beverages, see the “Eating” section in the Practicalities chapter.
Paying and Tipping: Look at your itemized bill carefully to make sure you understand each line (especially in touristy spots). Restaurants with sit-down service include a service charge on the bill. On top of that, locals tip by rounding up (usually 5 to 10 percent for good service—but not more).
Smoking in Restaurants: Like most European countries, the Czech Republic does not permit smoking inside restaurants and cafés. It is generally OK, however, to smoke in outdoor seating areas, which nonsmokers may occasionally find unpleasant. To escape the fumes of a neighbor, ask to change tables.
Dining with a View: For great views, consider these options, described later in this chapter: Villa Richter (next to Prague Castle, above Malostranská Metro stop), Petřínské Terasy (next to the funicular stop halfway up Petřín Hill), or the Oblaca restaurant and café (200 feet up in the Žižkov TV tower east of downtown). For the best cheap riverside dinner, have a picnic on a paddleboat (see here). There’s nothing like drifting down the middle of the Vltava River as the sun sets, while munching on a picnic meal and sipping a beer.
Traditional Czech Places: While many Czechs have gradually come to prefer the cosmopolitan tastes of the world to the mundane taste of pork and sauerkraut, they like to revisit traditional institutions to reconnect with the childhood flavors of tripe soup or goulash. So while “authentic” Czech restaurants in the center have become touristy, they’re still great fun, a good value, and enjoyed by locals as well. Expect unadorned spaces, curt service, and reasonably good, inexpensive food.
Cheap-and-Cheery Sandwich Shops: All around town you’ll find modern little sandwich shops offering inexpensive fresh-made sandwiches (grilled if you like), pastries, salads, and drinks. You can get the food to go or eat inside at simple tables.
Groceries and Farmers Markets: Ask your hotelier for the location of the nearest grocery store. Many are run by Vietnamese immigrants and appreciated for their reasonable prices. An even cheaper chain of small grocery stores, with several locations in the Old Town, is Žabka (look for a colored shopping basket sign outside).
Farmers markets crop up around the city and tantalize picnickers. Apart from vegetables, you’ll find quality cheeses, juices, cakes, coffee, and more (www.farmarsketrziste.cz). The most central is on Republic Square (Náměstí Republiky), just across the street from the Municipal House and the Powder Tower (Mon-Fri until 20:00). The most scenic is the Náplavka (“River Landing”) market on the Vltava embankment, just south of the Palacký Bridge; the original and biggest market is on Vítězné Náměstí at the Dejvická Metro stop (both Sat 8:00-14:00). A smaller farmers market enlivens the heart of the trendy Žižkov neighborhood from Wednesday to Friday (8:00-18:00) and Saturday (8:00-14:00). It’s at Metro stop Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad; you could combine a visit with a trip up the nearby Žižkov TV tower.
Food Tours: If you would like to delve more deeply into Czech food or beer, consider Eating Europe’s culinary and beer tours (www.eatingeurope.com).
THE OLD TOWN
For locations, see the “Restaurants in Prague’s Old Town” map.
Traditional Czech
$$ Restaurace u Provaznice (“By the Ropemaker’s Wife”) has all the Czech classics, peppered with the story of a once-upon-a-time-faithful wife. (Check the menu for details of the gory story.) Locals congregate under bawdy frescoes for the famously good “pig leg” with horseradish and Czech mustard. This is a handy spot on a peaceful lane just a block from the commotion at the bottom of Wenceslas Square (daily, Provaznická 3, +420 224 232 528).
$$ U Medvídků (“By the Bear Cubs”) started out as a brewery in 1466 (they still offer a range of their own microbrews, including one of the oldest-ever wheat beers) and is now a flagship beer hall of the Czech Budweiser. The one large room is bright, noisy, and touristy (daily, a block toward Wenceslas Square from Bethlehem Square at Na Perštýně 7, +420 736 662 900). The smaller beer bar next to the restaurant (daily 16:00 until late) is used by university students during emergencies—such as after most other pubs have closed.
$ U Zlatého Tygra (“By the Golden Tiger Pub”) has long embodied the proverbial Czech pub, where beer turns strangers into kindred spirits as they share their life stories with one another. Today, “The Tiger” is a buzzing shrine to one of its longtime regulars, the writer Bohumil Hrabal, whose fictions immortalize many of the colorful characters that once warmed the wooden benches here. Locals line up for good, authentic Czech pub grub and a great (noisy) atmosphere (tight seating, daily from 15:00, just a block off Karlova at Husova 17, +420 222 221 111).
$ Restaurace u Betlémské Kaple, behind Bethlehem Chapel, is not “ye olde” Czech. It’s peaceful, woody, and spacious. Locals appreciate the cheap lunch deals and fish specialties. Portions are splittable and prices are good (daily, Betlémské Náměstí 2, +420 222 221 639).
$$ Restaurace Mlejnice (“The Mill”) is a fun little pub strewn with farm implements and happy eaters, located just out of the tourist crush two blocks from the Old Town Square. They serve traditional specials, hearty salads, and modern Czech plates. Reservations are smart for dinner (daily, between Melantrichova and Železná at Kožná 14, +420 224 228 635, www.restaurace-mlejnice.cz).
$$ Lokál is a hit for its good-quality Czech classics. Filling a long, arched space, the restaurant plays on nostalgia: The stark interior is a deliberate 1980s retro design, and it celebrates the hungry and thirsty working class. The name roughly means “the neighborhood dive”—a reference to the basic canteens of that age. Reservations are smart (daily until late, Dlouhá 33, +420 734 283 874, https://lokal-dlouha.ambi.cz).
Modern and Vegetarian
$$$$ V Zátiší prides itself on being untraditional in every sense, from the ambience and service to the chef’s imaginative concoctions. Delicate deer, duck, and fish typically swim in carefully calibrated sauces and come with unusual side dishes (Mon-Sat lunch and dinner, Sun dinner only, Liliová 1, +420 222 221 155).
$$$ Kogo Havelská serves modern takes on traditional Italian cuisine, including perfectly cooked pasta and fish and meats paired with seasonal ingredients. They also make their own bread and desserts (daily, Havelská 29, +420 224 210 259).
$ Lehká Hlava (“Clear Head”) is a vegetarian oasis of peace located within 100 yards of the Charles Bridge on a hidden cul-de-sac. Its delightful historic vaulted space, given a retro sci-fi remodel, couldn’t feel more distant from the bustle of the ubiquitous crowds. The chef is on a mission to please the senses with a wide-ranging menu of veggie takes on international cuisine. The daily lunch specials are a particularly good value (daily, limited options 15:30-17:30, Boršov 2, +420 222 220 665).
Czechs are among the world’s most enthusiastic beer (pivo) drinkers—adults drink an average of 80 gallons a year. The pub is a place to have fun, complain, discuss art and politics, talk hockey, and chat with locals and visitors alike. Na zdraví means “to your health” in Czech. Whether you’re in a restaurace (restaurant), hostinec (pub), or hospoda (bar), a beer will land on your table upon the slightest hint to the waiter, and a new pint will automatically appear when the old glass is almost empty (until you tell the waiter to stop). Order beer from the tap (točené means “draft,” sudové pivo means “keg beer”). More and more pubs are upgrading to beer from the tank (tankové). A pivo is large (0.5 liter—17 oz); a malé pivo is small (0.3 liter—10 oz).
The Czechs perfected the first Pilsner-style lager, introduced by a Bavarian in nearby Plzeň, and the result, Pilsner Urquell, is on tap in many local pubs. But the Czechs produce plenty of other good beers; most of the famous brands, including Krušovice, Gambrinus, Staropramen, and Kozel, are owned internationally. Budvar, from the town of Budějovice (“Budweis” in German), is the last state-owned brewery. For years, the Czech and the American breweries disputed the “Budweiser” brand name. The solution: Czech Budweiser is sold under its own name in Europe, China, and Africa, while in America it is marketed as Czechvar.
The big degree symbol on beer bottles doesn’t indicate alcohol content. Instead, it is a measurement used by brewers to track the density of certain ingredients. As a rough guide, 10 degrees is about 3.5 percent alcohol, 12 degrees is about 4.2 percent alcohol, and 11 and 15 degrees are dark beers. The most popular Czech beers are about as potent as German beers and only slightly stronger than typical American brews.
Traditional establishments have beers from only one brewery on tap: one 10-degree, one 12-degree, one dark, and one nonalcoholic beer. While in the past Czechs didn’t mix beer with anything, the German-style radlers (beer mixed with citrus soda or juice) have become more popular, particularly with nonalcoholic beers. Czechs still tend not to hop from pub to pub or from beer to beer: In one night, it is said, you must stay faithful to one woman, one pub, and one beer (it is OK to switch church or party affiliation).
While multinational beer corporations have bought up some companies (Pilsner is Asahi, Krušovice is Heineken, and Staropramen is Molson Coors), in more recent years the Czechs have moved toward local microbrews. More and more restaurants are making their own beer or serving beer only from independent breweries. Modern beer bars (pivní bar, with a range of microbrews on tap) are popping up like crazy.
The one word to characterize a successful Czech microbrew is balance. While Czechs do like to try new tastes, they are looking for a beer they can spend an evening with, drinking several pints throughout the night. A beer heavy on hops, alcohol, or other added ingredients may excite on the first or second sip, but the excitement is unlikely to last a night. Plus, an added strong taste may detract from the original one. Ultimately, a balanced, rounded flavor wins out in the Czech microbrew scene.
$$ Maitrea Vegetarian Restaurant is a favorite Old Town vegetarian place, where a spirit of wellness and feng shui prevails. The ground floor is fresh and modern. Downstairs is a world of fountains, pillows, and Buddhas. The extensive, creative menu will stoke your appetite (vegan-friendly, daily, cheap lunch specials Mon-Fri, half a block downhill from the Týn Church north door at Týnská 6, +420 221 711 631).
$$ Country Life Restaurant is a cafeteria with a well-displayed buffet of salads and hot veggie dishes. It’s midway between the Old Town Square and the bottom of Wenceslas Square. They’re serious about their vegetarianism, serving only plant-based, unprocessed, and unrefined food (pay by weight; Mon-Thu 8:30 until 19:00, Fri until 16:00, Sun 11:00-18:00, closed Sat; through courtyard at Melantrichova 15/Michalská 18, +420 224 213 366).
$$ Dhaba Beas Cafeteria is run by a Punjabi chef. Diners grab a steel tray and scoop up whatever looks good—typically various choices of dal (lentils) and sabji (vegetables) with rice or chapati (pancakes). The food is sold by weight—you’ll likely spend 200 Kč for lunch. Tucked away in a courtyard behind the Týn Church, this place is popular with university students and young professionals (daily, Týnská 19, +420 608 035 727).
International Eateries and Bars
Dlouhá, the wide street leading away from the Old Town Square behind the Jan Hus Memorial, takes you into a neighborhood west of the Jewish Quarter where you can eat your way around the world. Here are a few favorites from this United Nations of eateries:
Indian: Located in a modern building two blocks behind the Municipal House, $$$ Indian Jewel was among the first in a recent wave of quality Indian restaurants to arrive in Prague. They offer Indian classics, vegetarian options, and good-value lunch specials on weekdays. The hardworking owner, Sanjeev, is proud of his rare-in-Prague tandoor oven—ideal for baking authentic breads (daily, Rybná 9, +420 725 107 059).
Irish: $ James Joyce Irish Pub may seem like a strange recommendation in Prague—home of some of the world’s best beer—but it has the kind of ambience that locals (and few tourists) seek out. They serve basic pub grub, fish and chips, and curries. Expats have favored this pub for Guinness ever since the Velvet Revolution enabled the Celts to return to one of their original homelands. Worn wooden floors, dingy walls, and the Irish manager transport you right into the heart of blue-collar Dublin (daily until late, U Obecního Dvora 4, +420 224 818 851).
Mexican: One of the last student bastions in the Old Town, $$ La Casa Blů, with cheap lunch specials, Mexican plates, Staropramen beer, and greenish mojitos, is your own little pueblo in Prague. Painted in warm oranges and reds, energized by upbeat music, and guarded by creatures from Mayan mythology, La Casa Blů attracts a fiesta of happy eaters and drinkers (daily, Sun from 14:00, on the corner of Kozí and Bílkova, +420 224 818 270).
International Fusion: $$ Food Lab, with a sleek, modern interior, blends tastes from all over the world. Breakfast is sumptuous and the weekly lunch menus are a good value. Dinner portions encourage family-style sharing (daily, Haštalská 4, +420 257 310 713).
Italian near Bethlehem Square: Located on a quiet square near Bethlehem Chapel, $$$ Alriso Risotteria Italiana offers creative gluten-free dishes in a classy setting with seating both inside and out. Locals come here for the moist and flavorful rice bread (daily, Betlémské Náměstí 11, +420 222 233 341).
Jewish Quarter
These restaurants are well placed to reenergize after a demanding tour of the Jewish Quarter. Also consider the nearby international eateries listed above.
$$$ Kolkovna, the flagship restaurant of a chain allied with Pilsner Urquell, is big and woody yet modern, serving a fun mix of Czech and international cuisine—ribs, salads, cheese plates, and beer. It feels a tad formulaic...but not in a bad way (a bit overpriced, daily, across from Spanish Synagogue at V Kolkovně 8, +420 224 819 701).
$$$ Alforno Focacceria Italiana is a low-key slice of Italy conveniently located across the street from the Pinkas synagogue. You can splurge on fancy fish and meat dishes or opt for relatively affordable pasta dishes and weekday lunch specials (daily, Široká 25, +420 224 818 322).
$$$ King Solomon Restaurant, the oldest kosher restaurant in Prague, serves traditional Jewish dishes in a handsome setting, with an emphasis on roasted, grilled, and braised meats. The daily fixed-price menu, available at both lunch and dinner, gives you the chance to sample a range of dishes for a good price (daily, Fri and Sat Shabbat meals by reservation only, Široká 8, +420 224 818 752, www.kosher.cz).
Dining with an Old Town Square View
$$$$ Hotel u Prince Terasa, atop the five-star hotel facing the Astronomical Clock, is designed for foreign tourists. A sleek elevator inside the hotel takes you to the rooftop terrace, packed with tables and an open-air grill. The view is arguably the best in town—especially at sunset. The menu is overpriced, with photos that make ordering easy. Servers can be rude, dishonest, and aggressive. Confirm exact prices before ordering. This place is also great for a drink at sunset or late at night (daily, outdoor heaters, Staroměstské Náměstí 29, +420 737 261 842, www.terasauprince.com).
THE LESSER TOWN
These characteristic eateries are handy for a bite before or after your Prague Castle visit. For locations see the “Hotels and Restaurants in the Lesser Town and Castle Quarter” map on here.
$$ Malostranská Beseda, in the impeccably restored former Town Hall, weaves together an imaginative menu of traditional Czech dishes (both classic and little known), vegetarian fare, and fresh fish. It feels a bit sterile and formulaic, but you can choose among three settings: the ground-floor restaurant on the left, the café on the right (serves meals, but it’s OK to have only coffee or cake), or the packed beer hall downstairs, where Pilsner Urquell is served (daily, Malostranské Náměstí 21, +420 257 409 112). The restaurant has a recommended music club upstairs.
$$ Lokál U Bílé Kuželky (“By the White Bowling Pin”), a branch of the Old Town’s recommended Lokál restaurant, is the best bet for quick, cheap, well-executed Czech classics on this side of the river (daily until late, Míšeňská 12; from the Charles Bridge, turn right around the U Tří Pštrosů Hotel just before the Lesser Town gate; +420 257 212 014).
$$ St. Martin is the quintessential neighborhood pub/restaurant serving inexpensive dishes (mainly burgers), a variety of beers, and a selection of wines from two family-owned Moravian wineries (daily, tucked away on a little street just above the American embassy at Vlašská 7, +420 257 219 728).
$$ Vegan’s Prague, on the top two floors and a tiny terrace of a narrow medieval house, serves vegan variations on Czech classics as well as Asian fare. The setting is a tasteful mix of Renaissance roof beams, Balinese art, and gorgeous vistas (daily, Nerudova 36, +420 735 171 313).
$$ Natureza Vegetarian House, on a quiet walnut tree-shaded patio next to the Gothic walls of St. Lawrence Church, is a snug, family-run place offering eclectic vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free food. Choose from soups, salads, veggie burgers, Asian-inspired dishes, burritos, risottos, desserts, and fancy nonalcoholic drinks (daily until 17:00, Hellichova 14, +420 721 678 883).
$ U Hrocha (“By the Hippo”), a small authentic pub with tar dripping from its walls, is packed with beer drinkers. Expect simple, traditional meals—basically meat starters with bread. Just below the castle near Lesser Town Square (Malostranské Náměstí), it’s actually the haunt of many members of parliament, which is around the corner (cash only, daily from 12:00, chalkboard lists daily meals in English, Thunovská 10, +420 257 533 389).
$$ Cukrkávalimonáda (“Sugar, Coffee, Lemonade”) is part restaurant and part patisserie, serving big salads, made-to-order sandwiches, artful pastries, and freshly squeezed juice in a setting mixing old and new decor. The bistro—an oasis just a block away from the tourist crush—is 50 yards down the first street to the left after you exit the Charles Bridge (daily 9:00-19:00, Lázeňská 7, +420 257 225 396).
Across the Bridge from the National Theater: Consider these $$$ elegant choices near the riverfront. Café Savoy is the closest you’ll get to a Viennese café in Prague—with exquisite dishes mixing French, Viennese, and Czech influences; thoughtful service; and elegant Art Deco surroundings (lunch specials weekdays only, breakfast all day; long hours daily; Vítězná 5, +420 731 136 144). Pastař (“The Pasta Maker”) is serious about freshly made pasta. Their small menu—Italian with a bit of Czech—includes fine fish and meat dishes as well, and the service is attentive and friendly (daily, Malostranské Nábřeží 558, +420 777 009 108).
Near the Funicular, on Petřín Hill: Halfway up Petřín Hill, $$ Petřínské Terasy offers great views over the city from the terrace or woody seating indoors. The menu features traditionally prepared meats (cash only, daily, Petřín 393, +420 257 320 688).
THE CASTLE QUARTER
For locations see the “Hotels and Restaurants in the Lesser Town and Castle Quarter” map on here.
$$$ Villa Richter, at the end of the castle promontory and surrounded by the country’s oldest vineyard, is a popular wedding venue—one look at the gorgeous city view tells you why. You can take it all in from the panoramic outdoor seating area while nibbling on “street food” paired with a glass of the vineyard’s wine (daily until 19:00, no reservations, past the castle exit gate by the Golden Lane, +420 702 282 402).
$$$ Lobkowicz Palace Café is conveniently located at the far end of the castle near the end of the Golden Lane. There are three seating options—aim for the terrace, which has to-die-for views over the city. A selection of soups, salads, sandwiches, and warm Czech classics are served at the premium prices you’d expect for the location (daily until 18:00, +420 731 192 281).
$$ Klášterní Pivovar (“Monastery Brewery”), founded by an abbot in 1628 and reopened in 2004, has two large rooms and a pleasant courtyard. This is the place, though touristy, to taste a range of unpasteurized beers brewed on the premises, including amber, wheat, and IPA. The wooden decor and circa-1900 newspaper clippings (including Habsburg emperor Franz Josef’s “Proclamation to My Nations,” announcing the beginning of the First World War) evoke the era when Vienna was Europe’s artistic capital, Prague was building its faux Eiffel Tower, and life moved much slower. To accompany the beer, try the strong beer-flavored cheese served on toasted black-yeast bread (daily, Strahovské Nádvoří 301, +420 233 353 155). It’s directly across from the entrance to the Strahov Library (don’t confuse it with the enormous, tour group-oriented Klášterní Restaurace next door, to the right).
$$$ Host Restaurant is hidden in the middle of a staircase that connects Loretánská and Úvoz streets. This spot, which boasts super views of the Lesser Town and Petřín Hill, has a modern black-and-white design and an imaginative menu (daily; as you go up Loretánská, watch for stairs leading down to the left at #15—just before the arcaded passageway; +420 606 123 449).
$ Hostinec u Černého Vola (“By the Black Ox”) is a dingy old-time pub—its survival in the midst of all the castle splendor and tourism is a marvel. It feels like a kegger on the banks of the river Styx, with classic bartenders serving up Kozel beer (traditional “Goat” brand with excellent darks) and beer-friendly gut-bomb snacks (fried cheese, local hot dogs). The pub is located on Loretánská (cash only, daily, 50 yards from Loreta Church, no sign outside, look for the only house on the block without an arcade, English menu on request).
$$ Malý Buddha (“Little Buddha”) serves delightful food—especially vegetarian—and takes its theme seriously. You’ll step into a mellow, low-lit escape of bamboo and peace, where you’ll be served by people with perfect complexions and almost no pulse to the no-rhythm of meditative music. Eating in their little back room is like dining in a temple (cash only, closed Mon, between the castle and Strahov Monastery at Úvoz 46, +420 604 709 379).
$ U Zavěšenýho Kafe a Divadlo Pokračuje (“By the Hanging Coffee” and “The Show Goes On”), just below Loreta Square on the way to the castle, is a creative little pub/restaurant with friendly service that has attracted a cult following among Prague’s literati. You can “hang a coffee” here for a local vagabond by paying for an extra coffee on your way out (daily until late, Loretánská 13, +420 733 483 900).
$$ U Labutí (“By the Swans”) offers Czech food for a good price in a tranquil courtyard, just across from the Plague Column on Castle Square (daily, Hradčanské Náměstí 11, +420 220 511 191).
$$ Kuchyň (“Kitchen”), just behind the Tomáš Masaryk statue on Castle Square, has a small terrace with great city views. They serve Czech classics with a modern twist (daily, Hradčanské Náměstí 1, +420 736 152 891).
$ Kavárna ve Šternberském Paláci is the locals’ getaway from the tourist scene on Castle Square. It’s tucked behind the Archbishop’s Palace. They serve soup or goulash with bread and drinks in a quiet courtyard at unbeatable prices. Check out the garden with stunning sculptures that’s through the door on the left corner of the courtyard (Tue-Sun until 18:00, closed Mon, Hradčanské Náměstí 15, +420 703 372 197).
$ Kavárna Nový Svět (“New World Café”), on a quiet lane down from the Loreta Church, offers a tasty cake-and-coffee break from the tourist crowds, either in a cozy interior or a beautiful garden setting (Tue-Sun until 19:00, closed Mon, Nový Svět 2).
THE NEW TOWN AND NEARBY
For locations, see the “Hotels and Restaurants in the New Town and Nearby” map on here.
Traditional Czech
$$ Restaurace u Pinkasů, founded in 1843, is known among locals as the first place in Prague to serve Pilsner beer. It’s popular for solid, basic Czech pub grub. You can sit in its traditional interior, in front to watch the street action, or out back in a delightful garden shaded by the Gothic buttresses of the neighborhood church (daily, near the bottom of Wenceslas Square, between the Old Town and New Town, Jungmannovo Náměstí 16, +420 221 111 152).
$$ Café Louvre is an elegant favorite from long ago (it opened in 1902 and maintains its classic atmosphere). It features simple tables, paper tablecloths, and an army of young waiters serving up decent food (Czech classics, vegetarian dishes, lunch specials) at good prices (two-course lunch offered; long hours daily; Národní 22, +420 724 054 055). For more on the café-and-billiards dimension of Café Louvre, see the “Cafés” section, later.
$ Knedlín (“The Dumpling Village”) is a tiny place that, in keeping with its name, serves 20 kinds of dumplings, both sweet and savory. Having one is an indulgent snack; get two and you’re on your way to a meal. Order from the display case and then squeeze yourself in, like filling in a dumpling, at one of the minuscule tables (daily, Národní 24, +420 702 214 518).
$$ Kantýna serves “meat from the bone” (a.k.a., very fresh). A cross between a traditional butcher’s shop and a modern pick-from-the-counter canteen, this place offers the best-quality fast food for carnivores. They also serve a wide selection of freshly made soups, salads, and traditional desserts (daily, a block off the middle of Wenceslas Square, just down the street from the Mucha Museum at Politických Vězňů 5, no reservations).
$$ Pivovarský Dům (“The Brewhouse”), on the corner of Ječná and Lípová, is popular with locals for its rare variety of fresh beers (yeast, wheat, and fruit-flavored), fine classic Czech dishes, and an inviting interior that mixes traditional and modern (daily, reservations recommended in the evenings, walk up Štěpánská street from Wenceslas Square for 10 minutes or take tram #22 for two stops from Národní to Štěpánská; Lípová 15, +420 296 216 666, www.pivo-dum.cz).
Art Nouveau Splendor in the Municipal House
$$$ Kavárna Obecní Dům, a dressy café, is drenched in chandeliered, Art Nouveau elegance and offers the best value and experience here. Light, pricey meals and drinks come with great atmosphere and bad service (long hours daily, live piano or jazz trio in the evening, +420 222 002 763).
$$$ Restaurace Obecní Dům, in the next wing, is fine and formal, oozing Mucha elegance and slinky romance. They serve not particularly imaginative modern Czech cuisine with few international touches. You’re here more for the ambience than the food (daily, +420 222 002 770).
$$$ The beer cellar is overpriced and generally filled with tour groups (daily).
Other New Town Eateries
Near Masaryk Station: $$$ Brasserie La Gare opened with the mission to serve Czechs authentic French brasserie fare. It prides itself on its grilled fish and meats, and the lunch specials are a good value. The combination of wood-and-bronze interior and an open fire re-creates a French-village atmosphere. There’s also a French bakery and a deli (daily, V Celnici 3, +420 222 313 712).
At and Near Jindřišská Tower: $$$$ Zvonice (“Bellfry”) is an over-the-top splurge nested between wooden beams, exposed brick, and a 16th-century bronze bell on the top two floors of the gothic Jindřišská Tower (reached by elevator). The chef specializes in traditional Czech preparations of game, and a few fish and vegetarian options are also available (daily, Jindřišská 33, the tower three blocks from central Wenceslas Square is hard to miss, +420 224 220 009, www.restaurantzvonice.cz).
$$$ ZEM (“Earth,” punning on Zen) melds Czech and Japanese influences to produce an “avant-garde” cuisine that puts a premium on creativity. Whether you order yakitori or schnitzel, what arrives on your plate will likely defy expectations. The setting is equally engaging: the artsy 1920s interior has the stagelike open kitchen as its focal point (lunch specials, daily, just behind the Jindřišská Tower three blocks from central Wenceslas Square at Senovážné Náměstí 23, +420 227 344 900).
Near Wenceslas Square: $ Bistro Muzeum, in the former communist parliament building (now part of the National Museum) at Wenceslas Square, offers daily menus, freshly roasted coffee, soups, and sandwiches in a pleasant, kid-friendly setting (daily until 18:00, Vinohradská 1, +420 220 960 458).
$ Ovocný Světozor (“World of Fruit”) is a colorful joint that’s popular for its ice cream, but they also sell really cheap (and good) Czech-style open-face sandwiches—plus cakes and other desserts. Ask for an English menu (long hours daily, in the Světozor Mall off Wenceslas Square at Vodičkova 39).
Near Národní Třída: $$ Velryba is a low-key, artsy café-restaurant in a cool neighborhood buzzing with students. Here you can enjoy a beer, a burger, and chicken wings five minutes from the Old Town with nary a tourist in sight (daily, Opatovická 24, +420 224 931 444).
Žižkov
For more on this neighborhood, see the description on here of the Entertainment in Prague chapter.
$$$ Oblaca (“The Clouds”), the restaurant 200 feet up in the Žižkov TV tower, is expensive, but it comes with a Sputnik’s-eye view; a less pricey café serves breakfast and lunch (restaurant open late daily, café open 9:00-16:00, reservations recommended, Mahlerovy Sady 1, Metro: Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad, +420 210 320 086, https://towerpark.cz/oblaca, www.towerpark.cz/en/oblaca-restaurant [URL inactive]).
$ Pivnice u Sadu is the quintessential neighborhood pub, frequented as much by Czechs as by the Americans, Russians, and Slovaks who live in the area. Sit outside in the shade of a wild cherry tree, or in the interior decorated with old helmets, gas masks, typewriters, radios, and meat grinders—or whatever the neighbors found in their attics and gave to the restaurant. Pilsner and 10 rotating craft beers flow from the taps. Most customers have a running tab here (long hours daily, on a round square a block west from Žižkov TV tower at Škroupovo Náměstí 5, Metro: Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad, +420 222 727 072).
Vinohrady
Náměstí Míru Square: The area around this square has a wide choice of good restaurants. $$ Kravín (“Cowshed”) serves Czech classics, pasta, and grilled meats in a red-brick interior that evokes the atmosphere of its namesake. The lunch menu is a good value (daily, Náměstí Míru 18, +420 702 015 054). $$ Mlsnej Kocour (“Fussy Cat”), run by the Pilsner brewery, focuses on Czech dishes in modern decor that can feel a bit formulaic. They serve Pilsner from the tank along with a large selection of wines (daily, Belgická 42, +420 222 541 584). $$ Vinohradský Parlament specializes in classic Czech cuisine, particularly dumplings. At lunch time it’s the local crowd’s first choice for a quick fix (daily, Korunní 1, +420 224 250 403).
$$$ Bruxx is a Belgian brasserie serving a wide selection of fish and meats, along with the Belgian staples—mussels, fries, and beer. The lunch menu is a good value (daily, Náměstí Míru 9, +420 224 250 404). $$$$ Aromi is a high-end Italian restaurant serving meticulously prepared seafood in a fancy setting. The courtyard seating is particularly appealing (lunch and dinner Mon-Fri, dinner only Sat, closed Sun, Náměstí Míru 6, +420 222 713 222).
CRAFT BEER AND WINE BARS
These places give you a good sense of Prague’s popular craft beer and wine scenes. For locations, see the “Hotels and Restaurants in the New Town and Nearby” map on here unless otherwise noted.
$$ Vinograf Senovážné is an intimate wine bar with over 500 bottles to choose from and a carefully crafted seasonal food menu that’s both creative and eclectic (lunch specials, closed Sun, just behind the Jindřišská Tower, three blocks from central Wenceslas Square at Senovážné Náměstí 23, +420 214 214 681).
$$ Loď Pivovar (“The Brewery Barge”) brews three staple beers and a range of specials on the premises. The upper deck is effectively an open-air beer garden, the middle deck doubles up as a restaurant with traditional Czech dishes, while the eye-at-water-level bottom deck is a pub that pairs beer with traditional Czech tapas (daily; at Dvořákovo Nábřeží just under the Štefánik Bridge, near the St. Agnes Convent; +420 773 778 788).
$$ T-anker is a beer terrace sitting on top of the 1970s Kotva department store just off Republic Square. While their Tanker beer is specially made for this location, they do a good a job of rotating beers from around Prague and the country on their nine taps. The view of the Old Town towers is unbeatable (daily; either enter through the main doors of Kotva and take the elevator to the fourth floor and then the escalator up one more floor, or take the side entrance from Králodvorská street and then the elevator to the fifth floor; +420 722 445 474).
$$ Pivovarský Klub (“The Brew Club”) serves a wide selection of Czech microbrews in a modern, blond-wood restaurant. Every week different beers are featured on tap (daily, evening reservations recommended; about 50 yards on the left along Křižíkova from Florenc Metro station, Křižíkova 17+420 222 315 777; https://pivo-klub.cz).
$$ Myslíš? (“Do You Think?”) specializes in Czech microbrews of diverse provenance, ranging from lagers to IPAs to stouts. It’s hard to beat the location—a small modern ground floor and a large, cool brick cellar in the heart of the Old Town (vegan lunch served, daily until late, Sat-Sun evening only, Skořepka 3, just around the corner from the Havelská Market—for location, see the “Restaurants in Prague’s Old Town” map, earlier in this chapter, +420 774 591 091).
$$ Autentista Wine and Champagne Bar serves a carefully curated list of organic Czech and international wines in a vaulted space with modern design. You can accompany your vino with a selection of cheeses and cured hams (daily from 17:00, Řetězová 10—for location, see the “Restaurants in Prague’s Old Town” map, earlier in this chapter, +420 602 587 827).
CAFÉS
The Prague coffeehouse scene is alive and kicking. While some cafés are dripping with history, new ones are popping up almost daily (both chains and local places). Cafés in the Old Town and New Town are as much about the ambience as they are about the coffee. There is an almost inexhaustible variety—just peek into a few and choose the one that appeals. Most cafés also serve sweets and light meals.
Old Town
For locations, see the “Restaurants in Prague’s Old Town” map, earlier in this chapter.
$$ Grand Café Orient is only one flight up off busy Celetná street, yet a world away from the crush of tourism below. Located in the Cubist House of the Black Madonna, the café is fittingly decorated with a Cubist flair. With its stylish, circa-1910 decor toned to dark green, this space is full of air and light—and a good value as well. The café takes its Cubism seriously: Traditionally round desserts are served square (sandwiches, salads, vanilla squares and other desserts, great balcony seating, long hours daily, Ovocný Trh 19, at the corner of Celetná near the Powder Tower, +420 224 224 240).
$$ Café Café, just off to the right from the main drag connecting the Old Town and Wenceslas Square, serves salads, sandwiches, and cakes in a fancy setting (long hours daily, Rytířská 10, +420 774 331 122).
$$ Café Montmartre, a block and a world away from the tourist crush of Karlova on the quiet Řetězová Street, feels like a hidden meeting place for dissident poets from the 1950s (Mon-Fri from 14:00, Sat-Sun from 16:00, Řetězová 7, +420 601 364 137).
$$ Kafka Hummus Café is a stylish pit stop for a dose of coffee and a bite of crunchy falafel or homemade hummus in between synagogue visits (Mon-Fri until 18:00, Sat-Sun until 20:00, in the Jewish Quarter at Široká 12).
$$ Božská Lahvice (“Divine Bottle”) is a café-cum-bookstore in a spacious, light-filled underground space just steps from the Spanish Synagogue. It’s a local favorite for wine, coffee, soup, and pierogi in between book browsing (long hours daily, Bílkova 6, +420 734 441 004).
At the intersection of Řetězová and Husova, Crème de la Crème’s ice cream is a hit with locals for its fruity and nutty flavors (daily, Husova 12).
New Town
For locations, see the “Hotels and Restaurants in the New Town and Nearby” map on here.
$$ Kavárna Slavia, across from the National Theater (facing the Legií Bridge on Národní street), is a fixture in Prague, famous as a hangout for its literary elite. Today it’s past its prime, with a faded Art Deco interior and celebrity photos on the wall. But its iconic status makes it a fun stop for a coffee (long hours daily, sit as near the river as possible, Smetanovo Nábřeží 2, +420 224 218 493). Notice the Drinker of Absinthe painting on the wall (and on the menu)—with the iconic Czech writer struggling with reality.
$$ Café Nona, on the second floor of the new building of the National Theater, takes you back to the 1980s with its fashionably retro design. Sip your coffee and enjoy the view of busy National Street below (long hours daily, Národní 4, +420 775 755 147).
$$ Café Louvre, listed earlier under the New Town eateries, has a rich history of illustrious visitors (it is purportedly where Franz Kafka, in jest, first read his stories to friends). While it’s busy with diners during mealtimes, it relaxes into a café ambience at other times. The back room has long been the place for billiards (100 Kč/hour).
TEAHOUSES
In the 1990s, after the borders opened, many young Czechs ventured beyond Western Europe to places like Southeast Asia, Africa, or Peru. When they returned, many gravitated toward Eastern-style teahouses, where the civilization-weary spirit was soothed by the strong taste of yogi chai and the scent of incense. While the teahouse boom has passed, two fine examples still survive in handy Old Town and New Town locales.
$ Dobrá Čajovna (“Good Teahouse”), only a few steps off the bustle of Wenceslas Square, takes you into a peaceful, bamboo-shaded world that elevates tea to a religious ritual. You’ll be given an English menu—which lovingly describes each tea—and a bell. The menu lists a world of tea (very fresh, prices by the small pot), “accompaniments” (such as Exotic Miscellany), and light meals “for hungry tea drinkers.” When you’re ready to order, ring your bell to beckon a tea monk (daily, Sun from 14:00; through a short passageway near the base of Wenceslas Square, opposite McDonald’s; at Václavské Náměstí 14, +420 224 231 480). For location, see the “Hotels and Restaurants in the New Town and Nearby” map on here).
$ U Zlatého Kohouta (“By the Golden Rooster”), nestled in the corner of a picturesque (and well-hidden) Old Town courtyard, feels even more intimate and less formulaic than Dobrá Čajovna. Japanese woodblock prints and old Chinese maps adorn the walls, and the menu ranges from Taiwanese oolongs to Himalayan yogi teas to a Czech grandma’s dried-fruit potions. Sit in one of three tiny vaulted rooms or outside in the circa-1800 workaday courtyard with Tibetan prayer flags flapping above (Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat-Sun from 14:00; from the end of the Havelská Market farthest from the church, take a sharp right and head down a narrow street, then look for a small courtyard entry in the corner on the left at Michalská 3; +420 705 223 526). For location, see “Restaurants in Prague’s Old Town” map, earlier in this chapter.