PRACTICALITIES
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Map: Czech Republic Public Transportation
Map: Driving in the Czech Republic: Distance & Time
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.
Travel Tips
Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, at Travel.State.gov (US State Department travel pages) and CDC.gov (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention). The US embassy website for the Czech Republic is another good source of information (see later).
While most countries no longer require proof of Covid-19 vaccination for entry, some sights or tours may still have vaccination requirements (check ahead). Even if it’s not required for your itinerary, it’s smart to pack a copy of your vaccine record and/or store a photo of your Covid-19 vaccine card on your phone.
ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering the Czech Republic and other Schengen Zone countries (quick and easy process). For the latest, check Etias.com.
Tourist Information: The Czech national tourist office in the US is a wealth of information (www.visitczechrepublic.com). Their website includes a number of planning tools, descriptions of tourist regions and popular sights, and downloadable apps and brochures.
In the Czech Republic, a good first stop is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). Almost all the TIs in the Czech Republic are run by local governments, which means their information isn’t colored by a drive for profit. I swing by to pick up a city map and get info on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife.
Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 from a mobile phone or landline (operators typically speak English). If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen items, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For help with a lost phone, see “Damage Control for Lost Phones” on here. For more tips, see RickSteves.com/help.
US Embassy: Prague +420 257 022 000 (24-hour line), open Mon-Fri by appointment only (in Prague’s Lesser Town below the castle at Tržiště 15, https://cz.usembassy.gov).
Canadian Embassy: Prague +420 272 101 800, open Mon-Fri by appointment only (north of the Castle Quarter at Ve Struhách 95/2, https://www.czechrepublic.gc.ca). Ottawa +1 613 996 8885 after-hours emergency number.
Time Zones: The Czech Republic, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).
Business Hours: Most stores are open Monday through Friday from roughly 9:00 or 10:00 until 17:00 or 18:00, Saturday morning until lunchtime, and closed Sunday. Souvenir shops in Prague’s Old Town, and other businesses serving both urbanites and tourists (like small grocery stores), are open daily until at least 20:00.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and appliances (hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 65 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only to European citizens.
Online Translation Tips: The Google Translate app converts spoken or typed English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera. Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com and DeepL.com are also handy.
Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint when traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them). Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, go to RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.
Money
Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Europe. I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Credit Card: You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big (hotels, advance tickets) and small (little shops, food stands). Some European businesses have gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is widely accepted and simple to use.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw a small amount of local cash. Wait until you arrive to get Czech crowns (European airports have plenty of ATMs); if you buy Czech crowns before your trip, you’ll pay bad stateside exchange rates. While many transactions are by card these days, cash can help you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work and can be useful to pay for things like tips and local guides.
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.
Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency (for example, if your debit card gets eaten by the machine).
BEFORE YOU GO
Know your cards. For credit cards, Visa and Mastercard are universal while American Express and Discover are less common. US debit cards with a Visa or Mastercard logo will work in any European ATM.
Go “contactless.” Contactless pay options are now standard in much of Europe. Check to see if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines) and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section for details). Both options are more secure than a physical credit card: Instead of recording your credit-card number, a one-time encrypted “token” enables the purchase and expires shortly afterward.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.
Report your travel dates. Some banks want to know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards overseas, specifically when and where you’re headed. Depending on your bank, you can do this either online or over the phone.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can withdraw daily and ask for a higher daily limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not savings accounts.
Find out about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or Mastercard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). Shop around; you can compare credit cards on Bankrate.com. Some cards offer lower international fees than others—and some don’t charge any at all. If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new card. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.
IN EUROPE
Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps
Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: These cards have the usual chip and/or magnetic stripe, but with the addition of a contactless symbol. Simply tap your card against a contactless reader to complete a transaction—no PIN or signature required (except in some cases as a security measure for larger purchases). Some small businesses (such as market stalls or food stands) accept only tap cards, and sometimes don’t accept cash.
Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. To pay, hold your phone near a contactless reader; you may need to verify the transaction with a face scan, fingerprint scan, or passcode. If you’ve arrived in Europe without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone to work in this way.
Will My US Card Work? Usually, yes. On rare occasions, you may run into a situation where your card doesn’t work. This is most likely at self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks, tollbooths, or fuel pumps). Usually a tap-to-pay card does the trick in these situations. If not, look for a cashier who can process your payment manually or use cash. Drivers should be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. (In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card.) When approaching a toll plaza or ferry ticket line, use the “cash” lane.
Using Cash
Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate. In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in the Czech Republic ask for a Bankomat. When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later.
Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Your Cash, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see next).
Dynamic Currency Conversion: When withdrawing cash at an ATM or paying with a credit card, you’ll often be asked whether you want the transaction processed in dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While DCC offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate, and you’ll wind up losing money.
Exchanging Cash: Minimize exchanging money in Europe; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). In a pinch, you can find exchange desks at major train stations or airports. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
Security Tips
Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your backup cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money and one card in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front of the machine. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Avoid using a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).
Damage Control for Lost Cards
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to your bank (using a secure app) or the following global customer-assistance centers. With a mobile phone, call these 24-hour US numbers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), Mastercard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111).
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see RickSteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.
TIPPING
Tipping in the Czech Republic isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: A service charge is included at restaurants with sit-down service, but feel free to tip about 10 percent on top of that. If paying with a credit card, be prepared to tip separately with cash or coins; credit-card receipts often don’t have a tip line. For details, see the “Eating” section, later.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is 180 Kč, pay 200 Kč). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.
Services: For local guides, private drivers, or others who spend several hours with you and significantly improve the quality of your trip, a healthy tip (of around 10 percent) is not extravagant. In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a good job for you, a small tip of about 50 Kč is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
GETTING A VAT REFUND
Wrapped into the purchase price of your Czech souvenirs is a value-added tax (VAT) of 21 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than 2,001 Kč worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.
At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Europe.
At the Border or Airport: Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds (allow plenty of extra time to deal with this process and have your purchased items easily accessible for inspection). At some airports, you’ll have to go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. Elsewhere, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing, or you may be able to do it at a self-validation kiosk. (Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee, but you’re paying for the convenience of receiving your money in cash immediately or as a credit to your card.) Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant.
CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit https://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to the Czech Republic’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS
Your best navigation tool is on your phone. Google Maps (and similar mapping apps) offer turn-by-turn directions for walking and driving, as well as detailed public transit instructions in most big cities. Simply plug in a destination and instantly get detailed directions for reaching it on foot or by subway, bus, or tram—including where to catch it, how long it takes, where to get off, and how far you’ll walk at the other end.
To conserve data, most mapping apps let you download maps in advance (do this when you’re on strong Wi-Fi). However, offline maps may not include every feature (most in-city public transit navigation doesn’t work offline). For more on how to get online with your phone during your trip, see here.
For offline navigation, the maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Europe, simple paper maps are generally free at TIs and hotels; maps with more detail are sold at newsstands and bookstores.
PLAN AHEAD
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see “Prague at a Glance” (here); also see the “Daily Reminder” on here.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Opening days and hours can fluctuate; confirm the latest with the TI or at the sight’s official website (listed throughout this book).
Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). Prague’s Jewish Quarter—and other Jewish sights around the country—are closed on Jewish holidays, which are particularly frequent in the fall. A list of holidays is in the appendix; check online for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds—especially in jam-packed Prague. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
AT SIGHTS
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check day packs and coats. (If you’d rather not check your day pack, try carrying it tucked under your arm as you enter.)
Castle Tours: Getting inside a castle often means taking a mandatory guided tour—which may be offered infrequently in English. Typically a castle will have two or three numbered “routes” highlighting different aspects of the architecture or history; for the castles described in this book, I’ve recommended the best choice. It’s smart to check ahead about English tours; if they expect crowds, reserve a spot (generally for a small fee). If you just show up, you’ll join whichever tour departs next (usually in Czech with English handouts).
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Audioguides and Apps: I’ve produced a free, downloadable audio tour for my Prague City Walk; look for the 
in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.
Some sights offer audioguides with good recorded descriptions in English. Often you’ll use free Wi-Fi to download the tour to your mobile device on the spot; less frequently you’ll borrow or rent a device preloaded with the audio content at the museum. Bring your own plug-in earbuds to enjoy better sound (with a splitter, two can often share one rented device).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy and air-conditioned places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.
Sleeping
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to sightseeing.
My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for Czech traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in the Czech Republic.
Some people make reservations a few days ahead as they travel. This approach fosters spontaneity, and booking sites make it easy to find available rooms, but—especially during busy times—you run the risk of settling for lesser-value accommodations.
RATES AND DEALS
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant. City taxes, which can vary from place to place, are generally insignificant (a few dollars per person, per night).
Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking hotel websites and booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself, by phone, email, or on the hotel’s website. This increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). When you book direct, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites—in exchange, ask if they can give you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included).
Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show this book upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS
Hotels
In Prague, plan on Western European-level hotel prices ($100-200 per double). In smaller towns, a similar room costs slightly less.
Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.
Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. If stairs are unavoidable, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up.
Most European countries require hotels to collect your name, nationality, and passport number. At check-in, the receptionist might ask for your passport and may keep it for several hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to give them instead.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV and free Wi-Fi, which can vary in strength and quality. Simpler places rarely have a room phone.
Breakfast and Meals: Breakfast is generally included with your room. It’s sometimes continental, but often a buffet.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.
If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I rarely bother to use one, and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
Pensions
Pensions (guesthouses)—the Czech equivalent to B&Bs—are small, warm, family-run accommodations. While rare in the center of Prague, they are the typical accommodation across the country. Compared to hotels, guesthouses give you double the cultural intimacy for half the price. While you may lose some of the conveniences of a hotel—such as in-room phones, frequent bedsheet changes, and the ease of paying with a credit card—I happily make the trade-off for the lower rates and personal touches. If you have a reasonable but limited budget, skip hotels and look for smaller, family-run places.
Pensions range in size, with anywhere from 3 to 10 rooms (sometimes more), and many serve up a hearty breakfast. The smallest establishments are private homes with an added apartment (apartmán) rented out to travelers for as little as 1,000 Kč. In general, you can expect rooms in pensions to be clean, comfortable, and simple, though usually homey. Some are suite-like, with multiple rooms, separate entrances, and private baths. Others are spare bedrooms with a separate entrance and toilet. Rarely will you find a pension where you have to share facilities with the owners.
Czechs are more conscious about energy use than a typical American. You’ll endear yourself to your hosts if you turn off lights when you leave and avoid excessively long showers.
Finding and booking a pension is no different than reserving a hotel. Even most smaller places are listed on hotel-booking websites—but a direct booking is especially appreciated at mom-and-pop places and will likely net you a better price. Private rooms are also available through Airbnb-type services (described later). If you haven’t booked ahead, look for signs that say volné pokoje (rooms available). TIs often have a list of guesthouses; use their list to book rooms yourself to avoid having the TI take a cut from you and your host.
Short-Term Rentals
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, a house, or a room in a private residence—is a popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum-night stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and VRBO let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com and RentaVilla.com can provide a more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive).
Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to public transportation and how well connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-con, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
Think about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self-check-in and minimal contact; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require payment in full before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place for several nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or rental house. These can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.
Rooms in Private Homes: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some are interested in getting to know the travelers who pass through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com.
Hostels
A hostel provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for usually under $20 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online-booking site (https://hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.
Eating
You’ll find that the local cafés, cuisine, beer, and wine are highlights of your Czech adventure. Incredible deals abound here, where locals routinely eat well for $5. This is affordable sightseeing for your palate.
For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting “We Speak English.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
RESTAURANT PRICING
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a taste of the local cuisine at a reasonable price.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and refined cuisine.
Outside of Prague, your money goes further—you can eat well in a fancy place for moderate prices.
EATERIES
In general, Czech restaurants are open Sunday through Thursday 11:00-22:00, and Friday and Saturday 11:00-24:00. Only a rude waiter will rush you. Good service is relaxed (slow to an American). You can stay in a pub as long as you want—no one will bring you the účet (bill) until you ask for it: “Pane vrchní, zaplatím!” (PAH-neh VURCH-nee zah-plah-TEEM; “Mr. Waiter, now I pay!”).
A Czech restaurant is a social place where people come to relax. Tables are not private. You can ask to join someone, and you’ll most likely make some new friends. After a sip of beer, ask for the jídelní lístek (menu).
When you’re in the mood for something halfway between a restaurant and a picnic, look for takeout-food stands, bakeries (with sandwiches and small pizzas to go), delis with stools or a table, department-store cafeterias, salad bars, or simple little eateries for fast and easy sit-down restaurant food.
Most restaurants tack a menu onto their door for browsers and have an English menu inside. Smoking is not allowed inside restaurants and cafés, but it’s generally permitted in outdoor eating areas.
Tipping: Tipping is an issue only at restaurants that have table service. If you order your food at a counter, don’t tip. At Czech restaurants that have a waitstaff, service is generally not included; it’s common to round up the bill after a good meal (about 10 percent). If you warm up the waiter with a few Czech words, such as “please” (prosím; PROH-zeem) and “thank you” (děkuji; DYACK-khuyi), you’ll get better service and won’t be expected to tip more than a local. But if you greet your waiter in English, he’ll want a 15 percent tip. Believe me: The slightest attempt at speaking Czech turns you from a targeted tourist into a special guest, even in the most touristy restaurants (see the survival phrases in the appendix).
CZECH CUISINE
The Czechs have one of Europe’s most stick-to-your-ribs cuisines. Heavy on meat, potatoes, and cabbage, it’s hearty and tasty—designed to keep peasants fueled through a day of hard work. Some people could eat this stuff forever, while others seek a frequent break in the form of international restaurants (bigger towns such as Prague, Olomouc, and Český Krumlov have several options).
Soups
Polévka (soup) is the most essential part of a meal. The saying goes: “The soup fills you up, the dish plugs it up.” Pečivo (bread) may be served with soup, or you may need to ask for it; it’s always charged separately depending on how many rohlíky (rolls) or slices of chleba (yeast bread) you eat.
Some of the thick soups for a cold day are:
Zelná (or zelňačka): Cabbage
Čočková: Lentil
Fazolová: Bean
Dršťková: Tripe—delicious if fresh, chewy as gum if not
The lighter soups are:
Hovězí (or slepičí vývar s nudlemi): Beef or chicken broth with noodles
Pórková: Leek
Květáková: Cauliflower
Czech dumplings (knedlíky) resemble steamed white bread. They come in plain or potato (bramborové) varieties, are meant to be drowned in gravy (dumplings never accompany sauceless dishes), and are eaten with a knife and fork.
Sweet dumplings, listed in the dessert section on a menu, are a tempting option in summer, when they are loaded with fresh strawberries, blueberries, apricots, or plums, and garnished with custard and melted butter. Beware, though, that many restaurants cheat by filling the sticky dough with a smattering of jam or fruit preserve; before ordering, ask the waiter for details, or discreetly inspect that plate at your neighbor’s table. Dumplings with frozen fruit lose some of the flavor but are still worth trying.
Main Dishes
These can either be hotová jídla (quick, ready-to-serve standard dishes, in some places available only during lunch hours, generally 11:00-14:30) or the more specialized jídla na objednávku or minutky (plates prepared when you order).
Below are some popular meat dishes. Note that the word pečené (roasted) shows up frequently on menus.
Guláš: Thick, meaty stew
Pečená kachna: Roasted duck
Pečené kuře: Roasted chicken
Smažený řízek: Fried pork fillet, like Wiener schnitzel
Svíčková na smetaně: Beef tenderloin in cream sauce
Vepřové koleno: Pork knuckle
Vepřová pečeně: Pork roast
If you’re spending the night out with friends, have a beer and feast on the huge vepřové koleno, usually served with mustard (hořčicí), horseradish sauce (křenem), and yeast bread (chleba).
In this landlocked country, fish options are typically limited to kapr (carp) and pstruh (trout), prepared in a variety of ways and served with potatoes or fries—although Czech perch and Norwegian salmon have cropped up on many local menus.
Vegetarians can go for the delicious smažený sýr s bramborem (fried cheese with potatoes) or default to čočka s vejci (lentils with fried egg).
Salads and Sides
Starches and Garnishes: Hotová jídla come with set garnishes, but if ordering à la carte (jídla na objednávku), you’ll typically need to order your garnishes separately (otherwise you’ll get only the main dish). In either case, the most common sides are knedlíky (bread dumplings), zelím (cabbage), and bramborem (potatoes).
Salad: Šopský salát, like a Greek salad, is usually the best salad option (a mix of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onion, and feta cheese with vinegar and olive oil). The server will bring it with the main dish, unless you specify that you want it before.
Dessert
Consider the following for moučník (dessert):
Lívance: Small pancakes with jam and curd
Palačinka: Crêpes served with fruit or jam
Zmrzlinový pohár: Ice-cream sundae
Many restaurants will offer fruit-filled dumplings and different sorts of koláče (pastries) and štrůdl (apple strudel), but it’s much better to get these from a bakery. A větrník is a super-decadent, glazed cream puff.
All over Prague’s Old Town, you’ll find kiosks selling a treat called trdlo or trdelník. This is a long ribbon of dough wrapped around a stick, slowly cooked on a rotisserie, then rolled in cinnamon, sugar, or other toppings. While these aren’t “traditional Czech” (they were imported quite recently from Hungary), they do offer a fresh, sweet treat. Try to get one that’s still warm, rather than one wrapped in plastic—it makes a big difference.
BEVERAGES
Coffee: No Czech meal is complete without a cup of coffee. Espresso has become the norm in recent years, and locals drink it with added water and cream on the side. In most places, you’ll still find turecká káva (Turkish coffee—finely ground coffee that only partly dissolves, leaving “mud” on the bottom; drink it without milk). This is how Czechs used to drink their coffee.
Water: Water comes bottled and generally costs more than beer (tap water is generally not served). Czech mineral waters (minerálka) have a high mineral content. They’re naturally carbonated because they come from the springs in the many Czech spas (Mattoni, the most common brand, is from Carlsbad). If you want still water, ask for neperlivá.
Beer, Wine, and Liqueurs: Bohemia is beer country, with Europe’s best and cheapest brew (see the sidebar on here). Moravians prefer wine and slivovice (SLEE-voh-veet-seh)—a plum brandy so highly valued that it’s the de facto currency of the Carpathian Mountains (often used to barter with sheepherders and other mountain folk). Medovina (“honey wine”) is mead.
In bars and restaurants, you can go wild with memorable liqueurs, most of which cost about a dollar a shot. Experiment. Fernet, a bitter drink made from many herbs, is the leading Czech aperitif. Absinthe, made from wormwood and herbs, is a watered-down version of the hallucinogenic drink that’s illegal in much of Europe. It’s famous as the muse of many artists (including Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec in Paris more than a century ago). Becherovka, made of 13 herbs and 38 percent alcohol, was used to settle upset aristocratic tummies and as an aphrodisiac. This velvety drink remains popular today. Becherovka and tonic mixed together is nicknamed beton (“concrete”). If you drink three, you’ll find out why.
Staying Connected
A mobile device is an indispensable tool for efficient travel. Fortunately, staying connected in Europe gets less complicated (and less expensive) each year. You can use your devices much like you do at home, by either getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.
USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international-service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers unlimited text and low-speed data, plus reasonable per-minute calls).
Here’s how to dial from anywhere in the US or Europe, using the phone number of one of my recommended Prague hotels as an example (257 311 150). If a number starts with 0, drop it when dialing internationally (except when calling Italy).
Phone numbers in this book are presented exactly as you would dial them from a US mobile phone. For international access, press and hold the 0 (zero) to get a + sign, then dial the country code (420 for the Czech Republic) and phone number.
To call the Prague hotel from any location, dial +420 257 311 150.
Replace + with 011 (US/Canada access code), then dial the country code (420 for the Czech Republic) and phone number.
To call the Prague hotel from your home landline, dial 011 420 257 311 150.
Replace + with 00 (Europe access code), then dial the country code (420 for the Czech Republic, 1 for the US) and phone number.
To call the Prague hotel from a German landline, dial 00 420 257 311 150.
To call my US office from a Czech landline, dial 00 1 425 771 8303.
To place a domestic call (from a Czech landline or mobile), drop +420 and dial the phone number.
To call the Prague hotel from Český Krumlov, dial 257 311 150.
Local Numbers: European phone numbers and area codes can vary in length and spacing, even within the same country. Mobile phones use separate prefixes (for instance, in the Czech Republic, mobile numbers begin with a 6 or a 7).
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: It’s generally not possible to dial European toll or toll-free numbers from a US mobile or landline (although you can sometimes get through using Skype). Look for a direct-dial number instead.
Calling the US from a US Mobile Phone, While Abroad: Dial +1, area code, and number.
More Phoning Help: See HowToCallAbroad.com.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. Turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) only when you can’t find Wi-Fi.
Save large-data tasks for Wi-Fi. If your included data is slow or metered, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype or FaceTime, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off.
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, FaceTime, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. WhatsApp is especially popular with Europeans and is often the easiest way to communicate with guides, drivers, or other local contacts.
Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls, need a local phone number, or your provider’s international-data rates are expensive, consider getting a European SIM card to replace the one in your (unlocked) device. SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters and some newsstands (you may need to show your passport), and vending machines. If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop. Some newer devices may also allow you to download an eSIM from an international provider. There are generally no roaming charges when using a European SIM card in other EU countries, but confirm when you buy.
The language barrier in the Czech Republic is no bigger than in Western Europe. In fact, I find that it’s even easier to communicate in a midsize town like Kutná Hora than it is in Madrid. You’ll find that most people in the tourist industry—and just about all young people—speak English well.
Of course, not everyone speaks English. You’ll run into the most substantial language barriers when you need to deal with a clerk or service person over age 50 (train-station and post-office staff, maids, museum guards, bakers, and so on). Be reasonable in your expectations. Czech post-office clerks and museum-ticket sellers are every bit as friendly, cheery, and multilingual as ours are in the US. Luckily, it’s relatively easy to get your point across. I’ve often bought a train ticket simply by writing out the name of my destination, the time I want to travel (using the 24-hour clock), and, if necessary, the date I want to leave (day first, then month and year). Here’s an example of what I’d show a ticket seller at a train station: “Olomouc - 17:30 - 15.7.2025” (ticket to Olomouc at 5:30 pm on July 15, 2025).
Czech is a Slavic language closely related to its Polish and Slovak neighbors. Slavic pronunciation can be tricky. In fact, when the first Christian missionaries, Cyril and Methodius, came to this part of Europe a millennium ago, they invented a whole new alphabet to represent these strange Slavic sounds. A variation of their alphabet, called Cyrillic after its inventor, is still used today in the eastern Slavic countries (such as Serbia and Russia).
Fortunately, the Czechs long ago converted to the same Roman alphabet we use, but they’ve added lots of different diacritics—little markings above letters—to represent a wide range of sounds. An acute accent (á, é, í, ó, ú, ý) means you linger on that vowel; it does not indicate stress, which invariably falls on the first syllable. The letter c always sounds like “ts” (as in “hats”). The little accent (háček) above the č, š, or ž makes it sound like “ch,” “sh”, or “zh” (as in “leisure”). A háček over ě makes it sound like “yeh.”
Czech has one sound that occurs in no other language: ř (as in “Dvořák”), which sounds like a cross between a rolled “r” and “zh.” Another unusual sound is ň, which is pronounced “ny” (as in “canyon”). These sounds are notoriously difficult for foreigners to duplicate; it’s easiest just to replace them with simple “r” and “n” sounds.
Study the Czech survival phrases in the appendix and give it your best shot. The locals will appreciate your efforts. When navigating a town, these words can be helpful: město (MYEHS-toh, town), náměstí (NAH-myehs-tee, square), ulice (OO-leet-seh, street), nábřeží (NAH-bzheh-zhee, embankment road), and most (mohst, bridge).
If you speak German, it can come in handy—especially in the south of the country, where the economy depends in part on Austrian and Bavarian tourists from across the border.
Damage Control for Lost Phones: Losing your phone can be a significant inconvenience. Before you leave home, make sure your device is set up for automatic cloud backups, and enable the “find my phone” feature (make sure you have access to it from another device, like your travel partner’s phone or a laptop). Familiarize yourself with your phone’s “lost and lock” mode, which you should enable from another device if it goes missing. Report the loss to your mobile carrier; if your phone remains lost, use the “wipe” feature to erase its data.
For details on sending packages to your own home or to others, visit www.cbp.gov; select “Travel” and “Know Before You Go.” The Czech postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com).
Transportation
Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers, and those who want to leave the driving to others. Short-hop flights within Europe can creatively connect the dots. Be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city, with trains and buses you’re at the mercy of a timetable, and flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport and leaves a larger carbon footprint.
Within Prague, a car is unnecessary and a pain. If you’re staying mostly in Prague and tackling a few convenient side trips (such as Kutná Hora and Český Krumlov), public transportation works well. But outside of congested Prague, I find the Czech Republic a delightful place to drive; the roads are uncrowded and in generally good repair, and the rolling countryside is gently scenic.
If your itinerary mixes cities and countryside, my advice is to connect cities by train (or bus) and to explore rural areas by rental car. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside. For connecting Prague to international destinations (like Budapest or Kraków), stick with the train. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.
TRAINS
Trains are fairly punctual (although you can expect the occasional late arrival) and cover cities well, but frustrating schedules make a few of this book’s out-of-the-way destinations not worth the time and trouble for the less determined (try buses instead—described later).
Schedules: For Czech train and bus timetables, visit https://idos.idnes.cz (train info +420 221 111 122, little English spoken). It’s also worth checking the Czech Railways (České Dráhy) website, www.cd.cz, for specific connections. Germany offers an excellent Europe-wide timetable at www.bahn.com. Consider buying the Traťové Jízdní Řády, a comprehensive, easy-to-use schedule of all trains in the country (includes English instructions, sold at major station ticket windows for 30 Kč). Although it’s easy to look up a connection online, having the printed schedule and a map of railway lines gives you the freedom to easily change or make new plans as you travel.
Tickets and Tips: Tickets within the Czech Republic are valid for two days, and international tickets in most of Central and Eastern Europe are good from three days to two weeks (the shorter-term ones are often cheaper). Your ticket is valid for travel along the entire stretch from Prague to your destination, not just for one trip on a specific train—so enjoy the flexibility it gives you, and hop on and hop off along the way. You’ll rarely need a reservation, except for international night trains (or if traveling farther west, for example to France or Italy).
If you are traveling by train with one or more companions, ask for a group ticket. This gets you a 25 percent discount on the second ticket and a 40 percent discount on every subsequent ticket (only the first person pays full price).
The Czech railway network has a rather complex system for discounts on international tickets. The best deals are offered online only (www.cd.cz), typically three months ahead (with early booking you could travel, for example, to Berlin or Budapest for as little as €19).
Rail Passes: The Czech Republic is covered by a Eurail Czech Republic pass and the more expensive Eurail Global Pass. If your train travel will be limited to a handful of rides and/or short distances (for example, within the Czech Republic), you’re probably better off without a pass—Czech tickets are cheap to buy as you go. But if you’re combining Prague with international destinations, a rail pass could save you money.
Passes cover travel on trains run by ČD (Czech Railways), which operates the majority of Czech train routes. Passes also cover most trains operated by RegioJet (yellow trains and buses that connect Prague to Slovakia, Hungary, and Austria, but not their summer service to Croatia; reservations recommended for departures called “RJ”) and Leo Express (black-and-gold trains primarily running on the Prague–Košice route, and sometimes on to Kraków). Passes don’t cover privately-run Arriva (green trains) or GW Train Regio trains (orange-and-green trains). GW Train Regio most notably handles the České Budějovice–Český Krumlov leg of non-direct connections between Prague and Český Krumlov.
For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail-pass options for your train trip, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
BUSES
To reach many of the destinations in this book, buses are faster and cheaper than trains, and may be more punctual. No reservations are necessary, but they’re highly recommended if you’re traveling on a popular route (such as from Prague to Český Krumlov).
Bus timetables are online at https://idos.idnes.cz. The efficient Flixbus and RegioJet companies operate on the busiest routes. You can make online reservations (www.flixbus.com or www.regiojet.cz), or if you’re in Prague, visit the ticket office at the Florenc bus station (Metro: Florenc) or the main train station (Metro: Hlavní Nádraží). For other routes, buy tickets online or directly from the driver as you board (exact change is appreciated; the driver might have difficulty breaking large bills). You’ll be required to put big bags in the luggage compartment under the bus (usually one bag free, extra or oversized luggage 20-50 Kč, depending on the distance), so have a small day bag ready to take on the bus with you. Most buses don’t have bathrooms, nor do they stop for bathroom breaks.
Always let the bus driver know where you want to get off. Some stops may require a request, and most bus drivers are happy to let you know when your stop is coming up.
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Most European taxis are reliable and cheap. Often, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets.
Uber and other ride-booking apps operate in some parts of Europe, and rides can be cheaper than taxis. However, the details may differ from location to location. In some places, Uber works just like back home; in others, the app looks the same, but it hails a regular taxi rather than a private car. Uber is banned in some cities and countries, though sometimes similar companies operate where Uber cannot. For more about Uber and taxis in Prague, see here.
RENTING A CAR
It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (AutoEurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper AutoEurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.
Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
Rental Costs and Considerations
If you book well in advance, expect to pay roughly $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. To save money on fuel, request a diesel car.
Manual vs. Automatic: Cars with manual transmission are more common in Europe, and generally cheaper than automatic. If you need an automatic, it’s wise to book well in advance. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.
Czechs are proud of their locally built Škoda cars (since the 1920s, the Ford of Central and Eastern Europe). Now owned by Volkswagen, Škoda is the biggest post-communist success story in the country. (In an ironic twist, the word “Škoda”—the family name of an early owner of the company—also means “damage” in Czech.) When renting, I usually get a Škoda Fabia; for more luggage space and more oomph, step up to the Škoda Octavia. Other brands offered by rental companies include Hyundai and Kia, which are also locally produced. The rare rental company stocks a Toyota hybrid (with automatic transmission).
Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car-rental websites.
Choosing Pick-up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.
Have the Right License: If you’re renting a car in the Czech Republic, bring your driver’s license. You’re also technically required to have an International Driving Permit—an official translation of your license (sold at AAA offices for about $20 plus the cost of two passport-type photos; see www.aaa.com).
Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, GPS, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.
Car Insurance Options
When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (essentially “free,” but more complicated if you need to use it), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW costs $15–30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your card company about how it works. If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical choice. Both of these options are typically valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland and Italy.
For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.
Navigation Options
If you’ll be navigating using your phone, remember to bring a car charger. Most rental cars are equipped with a USB port so you can run your phone’s GPS through the dashboard display, but it can also be smart to bring a device mount.
Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—provide offline route directions, but you’ll need data access for current traffic. For more on using a mapping app, see “Using Your Phone in Europe,” earlier.
GPS Devices: Most cars come with a dedicated GPS unit, though it’s sometimes an add-on cost (about $15-20/day). The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Make sure you know how to use the device—and that the language is set to English—before you drive off.
Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with GPS, I always have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at a local gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.
Driving
Road Rules: Seat belts are required, and two beers under those belts are enough to land you in jail. Children under 12 must ride in the back, and children under 80 pounds should have a child safety seat. Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be on at all times, and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or visit TheAA.com and select “Travel.”
Freeways: During the communist era, Eastern Europe’s infrastructure lagged far behind the West’s. With the Iron Curtain gone, big cities gradually were connected by superhighways. A modern expressway connects Prague to Nürnberg, and the old nightmare of a freeway between Prague, Brno, and Olomouc has been entirely upgraded. Currently, the biggest project is the freeway connecting Prague to České Budějovice (toward Český Krumlov). Other than these, you will likely be traveling on backcountry roads (particularly in the southern Czech Republic). These can vary from smooth and new to bumpy and slow, but they’re always paved (or, at least, they once were). Expect some closures and detours for roadwork during the summer.
Fuel: Be sure you know the type of fuel your rental car takes. At about $1.75 per liter ($6.50 per gallon) for unleaded (“Natural 95”), gas in the Czech Republic is still somewhat cheaper than in Western Europe. If driving a diesel car, you’re in luck—it’s called “diesel” at the pump. Some pumps are color-coded: Unleaded pumps are green and labeled “E,” while diesel pumps (often yellow or black) are labeled “B.”
Tolls: If you’re driving on highways in the Czech Republic, you’re required to buy a toll sticker (dálniční známka) at the border, a post office, a gas station, or online (310 Kč/10 days, 440 Kč/1 month; https://edalnice.cz). Your rental car may already come with the necessary sticker—ask.
Parking: You’ll pay about $10-15 a day to park safely in Prague. Most of the city is designated a “blue” zone—meaning you have to pay to park within the zone unless you’re a resident. If you park behind a blue line, find a parking machine nearby and use a credit card or coins to pay for the time you need.
In small towns, such as Třeboň or Slavonice, you generally need to pay only during weekday work hours and can leave your car overnight on the street for free. I keep a pile of coins in my car console for parking meters, launderettes, and wishing wells.
FLIGHTS
To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: easy-to-use Google Flights is the top site for flights to and within Europe, Kayak has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.
Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another.
Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet or Ryanair. Smart Wings is based in the Czech Republic. Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and a larger carbon footprint than a train or bus.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
Resources from Rick Steves
Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com
My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, beautiful photos, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel-news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.
Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards, where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/travel-forum).
Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).
Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).
Rick Steves’ Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More
Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year about 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to book a tour, visit RickSteves.com/tours or call us at +1 425 771 8303.
Books: This book is just one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows and Video Library: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year. Watch full episodes for free at (RickSteves.com/tv). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (Classroom.RickSteves.com [URL inactive]).
Monday Night Travel Talks: To raise your travel I.Q., join our virtual travel party every Monday, featuring Rick Steves guides discussing European destinations, art, culture, food, travel tips, and more. Join the live events or check out the video recordings (RickSteves.com/mnt).
Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced 60 free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, visit RickSteves.com/audioeurope.
Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.
Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a selection of video clips from my public television show, and video recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/podcasts).