O
Óbuda (Budapest): 564, 622, 682–683
Ocna Șugatag: 1059
Oktogon (Budapest): 613
Old Bridge (Mostar): 1004–1005
Old Jewish Cemetery (Kraków): 253, 301–302
Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague): 86
Old Market (Kraków): 257
Old-New Synagogue (Prague): 88
Old Port (Dubrovnik): 988
Old Royal Palace (Prague): 117
Old Serbian Orthodox Church (Sarajevo): 1002
Old Synagogue (Kraków): 304
Old Town (Bratislava): 949, 952–969; eating, 975–976; map, 956; self-guided walk, 952–965
Old Town (Bucharest): 1041
Old Town (Český Krumlov): 191–192, 194–199; eating, 212–213; map, 193; sleeping, 209–210
Old Town (Dubrovnik): 988
Old Town (Gdańsk): 445, 463–467; map, 450–451
Old Town (Kraków): 240, 273–298; eating, 346–351; entertainment, 335–337; maps, 242–243, 332–333, 344–345; shopping, 331, 334–335; sights, 273–298; sleeping, 341–343
Old Town (Ljubljana): 741–745; eating, 769–771; shopping, 763; sleeping, 764–765, 768
Old Town (Plovdiv): 1024, 1026
Old Town (Prague): 51, 67–90; at a glance, 64; cafés, 152–153; eating, 141–145; guided tours, 63; maps, 68–69, 84, 132, 142; nightlife, 129; self-guided walk, 66–83; sights, 83–88; sleeping, 130–132
Old Town (Rovinj): 993
Old Town (Sarajevo): 1002
Old Town (Warsaw): 377, 403–408; eating, 440–441; map, 384–385; nightlife, 431; self-guided walk, 397–401; sleeping, 433–434
Old Town Hall (Prague): 72–73
Old Town Market Square (Toruń): 528–530
Old Town Market Square (Warsaw): 387, 400–401
Old Town Square (Prague): 57, 64, 67–73; eating, 145; map, 70
Oliwa Cathedral (Gdańsk): 493
Open Kitchen (Ljubljana): 730, 739, 769
Opera: Budapest, 586, 610, 612, 646–647; Prague, 129; Vienna, 863–865, 874, 895, 915–916
Orbán, Viktor: 41, 229, 552–554, 568, 589, 597, 628, 1076–1077
Ordynacka street (Warsaw): 390
Organic architecture, of Hungary: 701
Orthodox Synagogue (Budapest): 609
Ostrogski Castle (Warsaw): 413–414
Ostrusha: 1028
Otok Island: 787–789
Our Lady of the Rocks: 1010
Our Lady Victorious Church (Prague): 104
P
Packing tips and checklist: 26, 1130
Painted Monasteries of Bucovina: 1061–1065
Palace of Culture and Science (Warsaw): 379, 415–416
Palace on the Water (Warsaw): 429
Palach, Jan: 93, 94, 1119, 1124
Palacký Square (Kutná Hora): 168
Palm Tree Circle (Warsaw): 379, 386, 388–389, 409, 432; eating, 435–436
Párisi Nagy Áruház (Budapest): 612–613
Pařížská street (Prague): 126
Park Zvezda (Ljubljana): 748–749
Parliament: Croatian (Zagreb), 995; Hungarian (Budapest), 575, 583, 586, 588–589; Romanian (Bucharest), 1043–1044; Slovenian (Ljubljana), 755
Passports: 25, 1073–1074, 1081
Path of Remembrance (Warsaw): 423
Peleș Castle: 1036, 1044–1046, 1049
Pelișor Castle: 1046
Perast: 1010
Pest (Budapest): 565, 583–622; at a glance, 586–587; baths, 637–640; cafés, 673–675; eating, 662–671; maps, 584–585, 611, 618, 658–659; sights, 583–622; sleeping, 653–657. See also Budapest
Pest Downtown (Town Center; Budapest): 565, 601–604; cafés, 674–675; eating, 669–671; maps, 584–585, 658–659; sights, 601–604; sleeping, 656–657
Pesti Vigadó (Budapest): 647
Peterskirche (Vienna): 870–871, 875, 896–897
Petřín Hill (Prague): 65, 104–105
Petržalka (Bratislava): 970–972
Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Kraków): 253, 311–312
Phones: See Telephones
Pianist, The (movie): 419, 422, 423, 424, 1126
Pienkowska, Alina: 479
Piłsudski Square (Warsaw): 393–395
Pinkas Synagogue (Prague): 85, 128
Pivovar Český Krumlov Brewery: 205–206
Pivovarna Union (Ljubljana): 759
Place names, pronunciation: 1131
Plac Mariacki (Kraków): 331, 334
Plac Nowy (Kraków): 306, 338–339, 353
Plac Rapackiego (Toruń): 527
Plac Szczepański (Kraków): 294, 348
Plac Wolnica (Kraków): 307–308
Plac Zbawiciela (Warsaw): 430, 431; eating, 438–439
Plague Column (Prague), 120; (Vienna), 870
Plečnik, Jože: 117, 119, 723, 725, 726, 733, 734–735, 738–742, 745–748, 758, 761; biographical sketch, 753; House (Ljubljana), 733, 748, 752, 754
Plešivecká (Český Krumlov): 211, 213
Pletna boats: 777, 786, 788, 790, 792
Plitvice Lakes National Park: 996–997
Plovdiv: 1023–1028; eating, 1027; sleeping, 1027
Počitelj: 1006
Podgórze (Kraków): 310–317
Poenari Castle: 1046
“Polack jokes”: 223–224
Poland: 216–537; at a glance, 12–13; almanac, 219; climate, 1129; cuisine, 231–235; currency, 219, 1079; embassies, 1074; helpful hints, 218, 220; history, 220–229, 261; LGBTQ+ travel, 1076–1077; map, 217; movies, 1124–1125; overview, 216–236; today, 227–231; tourist office, 1073. See also specific destinations
Polanski, Roman: 1126
Polish History Museum (Warsaw): 408
Polish language: 235–238; restaurant phrases, 238; survival phrases, 237
Polish National Railways: 218, 220
Polish Vodka Museum (Warsaw): 429–430
Popiełuszko, Jerzy: 466
Popper Synagogue (Kraków): 303
Post offices: 1103–1104. See also specific destinations
Powder Bridge (Prague): 110–111
Powder Tower (Prague): 77
Powiśle (Warsaw): 415, 437, 439–440
Poznańska street (Warsaw): 439
Praga (Warsaw): 429–430
Prague: 12, 49–160; at a glance, 64–65; best views, 57, 140; cafés, 152–154; eating, 139–154; entertainment, 127–130; excursion areas, 161–189; helpful hints, 53, 56–58; layout of, 51–52; neighborhoods, 51–52; planning tips, 49–50; rip-offs, 53; self-guided walk, 66–83; shopping, 124–127; sights/activities, 67–124; sleeping, 130–139; teahouses, 154; tourist information, 52–53; tours, 63–66; transportation, 53, 58–62, 155–160. See also specific neighborhoods
Prague Castle: 52, 81, 105–120; map, 106–107; orientation, 65, 109–110; planning tips, 107–109; self-guided tour, 110–120; transportation, 105–107
Prague CoolPass: 53
Prague Old Town Hall: 72–73
Prague Proms: 1120
Prague Spring: 37, 93, 95, 474, 482, 971, 1120
Prague Symphony Orchestra: 128
Prater Park (Vienna): 907–908
Predel Pass: 831
Prejmer Church: 1053
Prešeren, France: 715, 726, 732, 734
Prešeren Square (Ljubljana): 732, 734–735
Primate’s Palace (Bratislava): 959, 966–967
Prison Tower (Gdańsk): 452
Private rooms: overview, 1095. See also specific destinations
Professors’ Garden (Kraków): 267
Promenade Square (Bratislava): 961–963
Pula: 994–995
Pula Amphitheater: 994–995
Puppet Museum (Český Krumlov): 205
R
Ráday utca (Budapest): 649
Radovljica: 807–813
Radziwiłł Palace (Warsaw): 396
Rafting: Soča River, 785, 833; Vltava River, 206–207
Rail passes: 33, 1106, 1108, 1116
Rail travel: See Train travel
Ramparts Garden (Prague): 119
Râșnov Castle: 1051
Reading, recommended: 1122–1123
Rector’s Palace (Dubrovnik): 988
Red Hall (Gdańsk): 469
Rembrandt van Rijn: 290, 406, 888, 901
Remu’h Synagogue (Kraków): 302
Rental properties: 24, 1092–1093, 1095–1096
Republic Square (Prague): 140
Resources from Rick Steves: 1115–1117
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Revival and Assembly Museum (Veliko Tarnovo): 1033
Revolution Square (Bucharest): 1041
Rhodope Mountain: 1027–1028
Ribčev Laz Village: 814–815
Rila Monastery: 1021–1023
Ringstrasse (Vienna): 852–853, 862
Riva (Split): 990
Roma (Gypsies): 208; Bulgaria, 1016; Czech Republic, 208, 212; Poland, 365, 368; Romania, 1038, 1047, 1055; Slovakia, 953, 962
Roman Acropolis (Plovdiv): 1024, 1026
Roman Amphitheater (Pula): 994–995
Romania: 17, 983, 1036–1065; almanac, 1038; cuisine, 1039; currency, 1038; history, 1038, 1047; map, 1037; top destinations, 1040–1065; tour guides, 1039–1040; tours, 1039; transportation, 1037–1038
Romanian language: 1039
Romanian leu: 1038
Romanian Parliament (Bucharest): 1043–1044
Romanian People’s Salvation Cathedral (Bucharest): 1044
Roman sites (ancient Romans): 568, 634, 747, 749, 872, 893, 989–990, 994–995, 1001, 1008, 1019, 1023, 1024, 1026, 1066
Roman Stadium (Plovdiv): 1026
Rose Celebration (Český Krumlov): 192, 1120
Rose oil, in Bulgaria: 1029
Round Tower (Český Krumlov): 198, 200–201
Rovinj: 993–994
Royal Castle (Warsaw): 387, 398, 403–407
Royal Palace (Budapest): 625–626
Royal Private Apartments (Kraków): 283
Royal State Rooms (Kraków): 282–283
Royal Summer Palace (Prague): 106
Royal Way (Gdańsk), 448, 453, 456–457; (Kraków), 255–273; (Prague), 52; (Warsaw), 377, 386–397
Rubens, Peter Paul: 900
Rubik, Ernő: 541
Rudas Baths (Budapest): 587, 634, 643–645
Ruin pubs, in Budapest: 649–650
Rumbach Street Synagogue (Budapest): 609–610, 648
Rustika (Ljubljana): 763
Rynek Underground Museum (Kraków): 253, 262, 294–296
S
Sacher torte: 851, 865–866, 938
St. Adalbert Church (Kraków): 264
St. Agnes Convent (Prague): 90
St. Andrea: 703
St. Andrew’s Church (Kraków): 272
St. Anne’s Church (Warsaw): 396–397, 431
St. Barbara’s Cathedral (Kutná Hora): 171–172
St. Barbara’s Cathedral and Park (Kutná Hora): 165–166
St. Bridget’s Church (Gdańsk): 448, 465–466
St. Catherine’s Church (Gdańsk): 464–465
St. Charles Church (Vienna): 875, 903
St. Dominic’s Fair (Gdańsk): 444, 1121
St. Domnius Cathedral (Split): 990
St. Elizabeth’s Church (Bratislava): 972
St. Euphemia Church (Rovinj): 993
St. Francis Basilica (Kraków): 252, 268–269
St. George Basilica (Prague): 118
St. George Island: 1010
St. István’s Basilica (Budapest): 587, 598, 648; concerts, 648; eating near, 666, 668–669
St. James Church (Prague): 75–76
St. John’s Street (Warsaw): 399
St. John the Baptist Cathedral (Warsaw): 399–400, 431
St. Joseph Church (Soča): 827
St. Luke’s Square (Kotor): 1011
St. Martin’s Cathedral (Bratislava): 964
St. Martin’s Church (Warsaw): 398–399
St. Mary’s Basilica (Kutná Hora): 171
St. Mary’s Church (Gdańsk): 448, 460–463
St. Mary’s Church (Kraków): 252, 259–262
St. Mary’s Church (Lbubljana): 735
St. Mary’s Church (Malbork Castle): 524–525
St. Michael’s Bridge (Bratislava): 952
St. Michael’s Church (Cluj): 1056
St. Michael’s Church (Vienna): 875, 891–892
St. Michael’s Gate (Bratislava): 956, 965
St. Nicholas Church (Gdańsk): 464
St. Nicholas Church (Prague): 70, 100–101
St. Peter’s Church (Vienna): 870–871, 875, 896–897
Sts. Cyril and Methodius Serbian Orthodox Church (Ljubljana): 733, 757–758
Saints Peter and Paul Church (Kraków): 272, 335–336
Sts. Peter and Paul Franciscan Church (Mostar): 1005
St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Vienna): 869, 874, 892–895; eating near, 929, 932
St. Tryphon Cathedral (Kotor): 1011
St. Vitus Cathedral (Prague): 65, 111–116; map, 113
St. Vitus Church (Český Krumlov): 196
St. Vitus Treasury (Prague): 110
Sala BHP (Gdańsk): 485
Salt Hill Thermal Spa (Egerszálok): 700
Salt mines: 324–328
Sandomierska Tower (Kraków): 281–282
Sándor Palace (Budapest): 628
Săpânţa Peri Monastery Church: 1060
Sarajevo: 998, 1000–1004; eating, 1003–1004; sleeping, 1003
Sarajevo City History Museum: 1002
Sarajevo Old Synagogue: 1002
Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum: 1003
Savica Waterfall: 816
Saxon churches, in Romania: 1052–1054
Saxon Garden (Warsaw): 394
Schiele, Egon: 906
Schindler’s Factory Museum (Kraków): 253, 312–317
Schindler’s List (movie): 300, 307, 310–311, 314–317, 369, 1125, 1126
Schloss Belvedere (Vienna): 875, 905–907
Schönbrunn Palace (Vienna): 25, 874, 909–913; map, 910
Schönbrunn Zoo (Vienna): 912
Schwarzenberg Palace (Prague): 120
Seasons: 19
Secession, the (Vienna): 875, 903–904
Sedlec Bone Church (Kutná Hora): 169–171
Seidel Photo Studio Museum (Český Krumlov): 204
Serbian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius (Ljubljana): 733, 757–758
Seventh Disrict (Budapest): 648; eating, 662–665; maps, 585, 664; ruin pubs, 649–650; shopping, 652–653; sleeping, 654, 656
Shakespeare & Co. (Vienna): 856
Shakespeare and Sons (Prague): 56, 126
Shakespeare Theater (Gdańsk): 473
Shipka Church: 1030–1031
Shipka Pass: 1031
Shopping: budgeting, 23; clothing sizes, 1128; VAT refunds, 1084–1085. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Shushmanets: 1028
Sibiu: 1054–1055
Sighetu Marmației: 1057
Sightseeing: best three-week trip, 20–21; general tips, 1086, 1087, 1090; maps and navigation tools, 1085–1086; reservations and advance tickets, 25, 1086–1087; top destinations, 12–17. See also specific sights and destinations
Sigmund Freud Museum (Vienna): 908
SIM cards: 1103
Sirens’ Valley: 702–703
Sisi (Elisabeth), Empress: 575, 631, 683; biographical sketch, 881; Hofburg (Vienna), 872–873, 877–883; Imperial Crypt (Vienna), 868, 891; Museum (Vienna), 880; Schönbrunn (Vienna), 909–912
Skłodowska, Maria: See Curie, Marie
Sky Bar (Bratislava): 962, 976
Skyscraper, the (Ljubljana): 731, 759–760
Sleep code: 1091
Sleeping: 1090–1097; booking sites, 1092; budgeting, 23; rates and deals, 23–24, 1091–1092; reservations, 23–24, 25, 1096–1097; types of accommodations, 1092–1097; user reviews, 1093. See also specific destinations
Slovakia: 948–979; almanac, 953; cuisine, 974–975; currency, 953; embassies, 1074; history, 950–951; tourist office, 1073. See also Bratislava
Slovak language: 953
Slovak National Collection of Wine (Bratislava): 968
Slovak Philharmonic (Bratislava): 961
Slovenia: 710–846; at a glance, 14; almanac, 713; climate, 1129; cuisine, 717–720, 769, 800; currency, 713; embassies, 1074; helpful hints, 712, 714; history, 714–716, 714–717, 724–725, 841; map, 711; movies, 1125; overview, 710–722; today, 716–717; tourist office, 1073. See also Julian Alps; Kobarid; Lake Bled region; Ljubljana
Slovenian Ethnographic Museum (Ljubljana): 733, 760–761
Slovenian History Exhibition (Ljubljana): 751
Slovenian language: 720–722; restaurant phrases, 722; survival phrases, 721
Slovenian Museum of Natural History (Ljubljana): 755–756
Slovenian National Gallery (Ljubljana): 756–757
Slovenian National Museum (Ljubljana): 755–756
Slovenian National Museum-Metelkova (Ljubljana): 761
Slovenian Parliament (Ljubljana): 755
Slovenian wines: 719, 792, 808
Small Boulevard (Budapest): 565, 605–610
Small Market Square (Ljubljana): 739–740
Smartphones: 26, 1102–1103. See also Apps
“Sniper Alley” (Sarajevo): 1003
SNP Bridge (Bratislava): 964, 970–972
Soča (Isonzo) Front: 715, 826, 828–829, 841
Soča River: 817, 826, 827, 833; fishing, 833; rafting, 785, 833
Soča River Valley: 826–829
Sofia: 1017–1021; eating, 1021; sleeping, 1021
Sofia National Archaeological Museum: 1020
Sofia National Historical Museum: 1021
Sofia Synagogue: 1020
Solidarity Center (Gdańsk): 448, 467, 480–485, 502
Solidarity movement: 221, 227, 448, 455, 467, 474–485
Solidarity Square (Gdańsk): 467, 474–477
Sopot: 505–507
Sopot Molo (Pier): 505–507
Spanish Riding School (Vienna): 873, 875, 886–887
Spanish Synagogue (Prague): 87–88
Spas: See Baths
Special events: See Festivals
Spittelberg (Vienna): 935
Split: 989–991; eating, 991; sleeping, 991
Square of the Republic (Ljubljana): 754–755
Srebrenica Exhibition (Sarajevo): 1003
Śródmieście (Warsaw): 379, 433, 438–439
Staatsoper (Vienna): 863–865, 874, 895, 915–916; eating near, 933–934
Stained-Glass Workshop and Museum (Kraków): 253, 298
Stambolov street (Veliko Tarnovo): 1032
Stanisław Wyspiański Museum (Kraków): 252, 292–294
Staré Mesto (Prague): See Old Town
Stare Miasto (Kraków): See Old Town
Stari Most (Mostar): 1004–1005
State Hall (Vienna): 887–888
State Opera (Prague): 129
State Opera (Vienna): See Vienna State Opera
Statue Park (Budapest): 587, 677–682; map, 678
Štefánik, Milan Rastislav: 973
Stephansdom (Vienna): 869, 874, 892–895; eating near, 929, 932
Stephansplatz (Vienna): 869
Stephen, Saint: See István, Saint
Sternberg Palace (Prague): 120
Stolarska street (Kraków): 337, 348–349
Stone Fountain (Kutná Hora): 167
Stone House (Kutná Hora): 167
Story of Prague Casle Exhibit: 117–118
Stoss, Veit: 260
Strada Nicolae Bãlcescu (Sibiu): 1054
Stradun (Dubrovnik): 987–988
Strahov Monastery and Library (Prague): 57, 65, 108–109, 121, 123
Strauss, Richard: 896, 916–917
Straw Tower (Gdańsk): 452
Straža: 786
Subway: See Metro
Suceava: 1065
Sucevița Monastery: 1064–1065
Summer terraces (teto), in Budapest: 650–651
Sunny Beach: 1035
Supreme Court (Budapest): 592
Sveta Sofia Church (Sofia): 1019
Swimming: See Beaches
Synagogues: overview, 305. See also specific synagogues
Szabadság tér (Budapest): 595, 597
Széchenyi Baths (Budapest): 586, 621, 637–640; map, 639
Széchenyi utca (Eger): 690–691, 706
Szentendre: 683
Szentháromság tér (Budapest): 629
Szołayski House (Kraków): 294
T
Tadeusz Sendzimir Steelworks (Kraków): 330
Tárnok utca (Budapest): 628
Taxes: VAT refunds, 1084–1085
Taxis: 1108–1109; tipping, 1082. See also specific destinations
Telephones: 1102–1103; how to dial, 1104–1105
Tempel Synagogue (Kraków): 310
Temperatures, average monthly: 1128–1129
Terezín Children’s Art Exhibit (Prague): 86
Terezín Memorial: 175–185; map, 178–179; self-guided tour, 178–185
Terror Háza (Budapest): 586, 613–616
Terror Museum (Budapest): 586, 613–616
Tesla, Nikoka: 986
Teutonic Knights: 221–222, 257, 277, 286, 410–411, 454, 461, 512–525, 747–748; biographical sketch, 521
Theater an der Wien (Vienna): 916
Theft alerts: 27, 1073, 1081–1082, 1106; Budapest, 573–574; Prague, 53, 56
Theotokos Romanian Orthodox Cathedral (Cluj): 1056
Thermal baths: See Baths
Third Man, The (movie): 918
Third Man Museum (Vienna): 918
Thracian Plain: 1028–1030
Time Tunnel (Eger): 689
Time zones: 1074–1075
Tito (Josip Broz): 715, 751, 755, 759, 786, 827, 1070–1071, 1125; biographical sketch, 1068–1069; Vila Bled, 786
Tivoli Park (Ljubljana): 758
Tokaji Aszú: 558
Toll stickers: 33, 543, 714, 856, 950–951, 1114
Tolmin: 829
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Sofia): 1019
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Warsaw): 394–395
Tonkina Koča: 823
Torture Chamber (Gdańsk): 452
Toruń: 526–537; eating, 536–537; map, 528–529; self-guided walk, 527–533; sights/activities, 527–535; sleeping, 535–536; transportation, 527, 537
Toruń Castle: 532–533
Toruń City History Museums: 533
Toruñ Fortress Museum: 535
Toruń New Town Market Square: 532
Toruń Old Town Hall: 528–529, 533
Toruń Old Town Market Square: 528–530
Toskánský Palace (Prague): 120
Tour guides: 26, 27. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 1073. See also specific destinations
Tours: Rick Steves, 1116. See also specific destinations
Train travel: 1105–1108; best three-week trip, 20–21; map, 1107; night trains, 1106; Bled, 780, 801; Bratislava, 977–978; Budapest, 567, 569, 572, 579, 675–676; Bulgaria, 1014–1015; Český Krumlov, 192, 214; Croatia, 986; Eger, 687, 706; Gdańsk, 446–447, 502–503; Konopiště Castle, 186; Kraków, 244–245, 355; Kutná Hora, 163, 175; Ljubljana, 726–727, 773–774; Poland, 218, 220; Prague, 155–158; Romania, 1039; Toruń, 527, 537; Vienna, 940–943; Warsaw, 379–381, 441–442
Trajan: 1026
Transfăgărășan Road: 1046
Transportation: 1104–1115; best three-week trip, 20–21; budgeting, 23; map, 1107. See also Airports; Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Car travel; Train travel; and specific destinations
Transylvania: 1036–1037, 1046–1056; history, 1047
Travel advisories: 1072
Travel documents: 25
Travelers Museum (Toruń): 535
Travel insurance: 26, 1075, 1112
Travel smarts: 27–28
Treasury (Vienna): 873, 874, 883–885
Treaty of Trianon: 548–549, 614
Tree of Life (Budapest): 608
Tri-City: 503–511; map, 504. See also Gdańsk
Triglav National Park: 819, 822, 823, 826; Information Center, 779–780, 819, 826
Trip costs: 23–24
Triple Bridge (Ljubljana): 725, 734, 738
Tryavna: 1031
Tsarevets Fortress (Veliko Tarnovo): 1033
Turkish Bath (Eger): 698–699
Turul Bird (Budapest): 625
Two Saint Johns Cathedral (Toruń): 530–531
Týn Church (Prague): 72, 74–75
U
Uber: 1108–1109. See also specific destinations
UFO at New Bridge (Bratislava): 964, 965, 970–972
Ukraine: cuisine, 234; Russian invasion, 229, 231
Ulica Chmielna (Warsaw): 390
Ulica Długa (Gdańsk): 448, 453, 456–457, 494
Ulica Józefa (Kraków): 307, 334, 340
Ulica Mariacka (Gdańsk): 460, 494
Ulica Mokotowska (Warsaw): 430, 439
Ulica Piwna (Gdańsk): 463
Ulica Piwna (Warsaw): 398
Ulica św. Wawrzyńca (Kraków): 308
Ulica Szeroka (Kraków): 299–300, 302–304, 309
Ulica Szeroka (Toruń): 531–532
Üllői út (Budapest): 621–622
Umschlagplatz (Warsaw): 423
Ungelt Courtyard (Prague): 75, 124
Uphagen House (Gdańsk): 448, 456, 468
Upland Gate (Gdańsk): 449
Upper Castle (Český Krumlov): 201
V
Váci utca (Budapest): 602–603, 651; eating, 669–671; sleeping, 656
Václav Havel Airport (Prague): 158–159
Vajdahunyad Castle (Budapest): 586, 620
Varga, Imre: 608, 680–681, 682
Varna: 1034
Varso Tower (Warsaw): 416
Vasa Chapel (Kraków): 277
Vasarely, Victor: 682
VAT refunds: 1084–1085
Velika Zaka: 787
Veliko Tarnovo: 1031–1034
Velvet Revolution of 1989: 38, 40, 77, 95, 96, 97, 594, 951, 1121
Venus of Willendorf: 901
Verige Strait: 1010
Vermeer, Jan: 900–901
Vértanúk Tere (Budapest): 594–595
Via Musica (Prague): 72, 74, 127
Victory Avenue (Bucharest): 1040
Vienna: 17, 848–944; at a glance, 874–875; cafés, 936–938; eating, 926–940; entertainment, 913–918; helpful hints, 853, 856; history of, 848–850; layout of, 852–853; maps, 849, 854–855, 864, 921, 924–925, 930–931; nightlife, 917–918; planning tips, 850, 852; self-guided walk, 863–876; sights/activities, 863–913; sleeping, 919–926; tourist information, 853; tours, 860–863; transportation, 856–860, 940–944; wine gardens, 938–940
Vienna Card: 877
Vienna City Hall: 917–918, 934–935
Vienna International Airport: 943–944, 979
Vienna Natural History Museum: 875, 901–902
Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra: 896
Vienna Secession: 875, 903–904
Vienna State Opera: 863–865, 874, 895, 915–916; eating near, 933–934
Vienna Volksoper: 916
Vienna Woods: 852
Vietnamese Market (Kutná Hora): 167
Vila Bled: 786
Villa Richter (Prague): 57, 140, 147
Vintgar Gorge: 803–807
Viscri Church: 1053–1054
Visegrád: 683
Visitor information: 1073. See also specific destinations
Vistula River: 240, 281, 377, 431
Vitosha Boulevard (Sofia): 1020
Víziváros (Budapest): 566, 657, 661; sleeping, 661
Vltava River: 51–52, 81–82, 190, 191, 195–196; canoeing and rafting, 206–207
Vodka Museum (Warsaw): 429–430
Vogel Mountain Cable Car: 815–816
Voroneț Monastery: 1064
Vörösmarty tér (Budapest): 601–602
Vrata Valley: 822
Vršič Pass: 818–826
W
Wagenburg Carriage Museum (Vienna): 913
Wagner, Otto: 609–610, 740, 753, 902, 903–904
Walentynowicz, Anna: 479
Wałęsa, Lech: 221, 227, 271, 328, 455, 459, 465, 467, 474, 478, 479, 481, 483–485; biographical sketch, 476–477
Walk of Peace (Kobarid): 843
Wallenberg, Raoul: 608–609
Warsaw: 13, 375–442; at a glance, 387; eating, 434–441; entertainment, 430–431; layout of, 377, 379; maps, 378, 384–385; planning tips, 377; self-guided walk, 386–403; shopping, 430; sights/activities, 386–430; sleeping, 431–434; tourist information, 379; tours, 383, 386; transportation, 379–383, 441–442
Warsaw Castle Square: 387, 397–399, 402–403
Warsaw Ghetto Uprising (1943): 376, 417–418, 419
Warsaw Old Town Market Square: 387, 400–401
Warsaw Royal Castle: 387, 398, 403–407
Warsaw University: 392
Warsaw Uprising (1944): 376, 399, 424–428; Monument, 424–425; Museum, 387, 425, 427–428
Washington, George: 619
Wawel Castle (Kraków): 252, 279–284
Wawel Castle Museums (Kraków): 282–284
Wawel Cathedral (Kraków): 252, 274–279
Wenceslas, Saint: 90–91, 115–116, 1121
Wenceslas Chapel (Prague): 115–116
Wenceslas Square (Prague): 64, 79, 90–97; cafés, 153; shopping, 126
Westbahnhof (Vienna): 941–942
Westerplatte (Gdańsk): 493–494, 503
White Tower (Brașov): 1048
Wieliczka Salt Mine: 324–328; guided tours, 254–255
Wien: See Vienna
Wiener Staatsoper: 863–865, 874, 895, 915–916
Wien Hauptbahnhof (Vienna): 941
Wien Museum Karlsplatz (Vienna): 875, 905
Wine: Croatia, 994; Hungary, 558, 651, 668, 685, 687, 693, 699, 702, 703; Slovakia, 968; Slovenia, 719, 792, 808
Wine gardens, in Vienna: 938–940
Winter Hall (Gdańsk): 469
Winter Synagogue (Prague): 88
Wojtyła, Karol: See John Paul II, Pope
World Museum Vienna: 873, 874, 885–886
World War I: 8, 36, 759; Austria, 848; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 1001; Bulgaria, 1016; Czech Republic, 202; Hungary, 548–549, 568; Poland, 224; Slovenia, 715, 816, 823, 827, 828, 837, 840–844; Soča (Isonzo) Front, 715, 827, 828–829, 841
World War II: 8, 1067, 1070; Austria, 848, 866–867, 873, 876; Bulgaria, 1020; Czech Republic, 36–37, 175–185, 202–203; Hungary, 550, 613–616, 632; Poland, 217, 224–225, 247, 304, 306, 312–317, 363, 376, 398, 424–428, 455, 485–491, 493–494; Slovakia, 963–964; Slovenia, 715, 759, 809; Warsaw, 387, 416–424. See also Concentration camps
World War II Museum (Gdańsk): 448, 485–491
Wurst, in Vienna: 927
Wyspiański, Stanisław: 260–261, 263, 268–269, 298, 413; Museum (Kraków), 252, 292–294
Wyspiański Pavilion (Kraków): 241, 269–270
Wyszyński, Stefan: 392–393, 399, 465
Y
Yugoslavia, understanding: 1066–1071
Z
Zadružna Zveza (Ljubljana): 738
Žaga: 829
Zagreb: 995–996; eating, 996; sleeping, 996
Zagreb Cathedral: 996
Završje: 994
Zelazowa Wola: 414
Zhivkov, Todor: 1034
Zhivkova, Lyudmila: 1033
Žižkov TV tower (Prague): 57, 150–151
Złota 44 (Warsaw): 416
Złote Tarasy Shopping Mall (Warsaw): 416
Zoo, in Vienna: 912