INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
R S T U
V W Y Z

A

A. Blikle (Warsaw): 390, 436–437

Academy of Fine Arts Painting Gallery (Vienna): 875, 903

Academy of Music, former (Budapest): 616, 647

Accommodation: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Acropolis (Plovdiv): 1024, 1026

Adventure Park (Bled): 793

Airbnb: 24, 1092–1093, 1095

Airlines (airfares): 23, 1115

Airports: Bratislava, 944, 979; Budapest, 572–573; Gdańsk, 447; Kraków, 246–248; Ljubljana, 775–776, 802; Prague, 158–159; Vienna, 943–944, 979; Warsaw, 381–382

Ajda: 824

Aladár Bitskey Swimming Pool (Eger): 697

Albertina Museum (Vienna): 866, 874, 888–889

Albertinaplatz (Vienna): 866–867

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Sofia): 1017–1019

Almanac: Austria, 851; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 1001; Bulgaria, 1016; Croatia, 986; Czech Republic, 32; Hungary, 542; Montenegro, 1008; Poland, 219; Romania, 1038; Slovakia, 953; Slovenia, 714–715

Alpine Cheese Museum (Kobarid): 842

Alps, the: See Julian Alps

Amber: about, 471; exhibits, 448, 466, 470–472, 518; shopping for, 331, 334, 494

Amber Museum (Gdańsk): 448, 466, 470–472

Am Hof Square (Vienna): 897; eating, 933

Amphitheater (Pula): 994–995

Ancestors, researching: 1088–1089

Andersen, Hans Christian: 963

Andrássy út (Budapest): 565, 598–599, 610–616; cafés, 675; eating, 665–666; maps, 611, 655; self-guided walk, 610–616; sleeping, 653–656

Apartment rentals: 24, 1092–1093, 1095–1096

Apicultural Museum (Radovljica): 809–812

Applied Arts Museum (Budapest): 622

Apponyi House (Bratislava): 959, 968

Apps: 26, 1102–1103; Budapest, 567, 581; Czech Republic, 56; language translation, 28; maps and navigation, 1085–1086, 1112–1113; messaging, 1103; payment, 26, 1080; ride sharing, 1108–1109; sightseeing, 1087, 1090; user reviews, 1093

Aqua Eger: 697–702

Aquariums: 508, 988

Aquincum (Budapest): 682–683

Arbanasi: 1034

Arbanasi Palace Hotel: 1034

“Arbeit Macht Frei” Gate (Auschwitz): 360

Archbishop’s Palace (Eger), 690; (Kraków), 267–268; (Prague), 120

Archdiocesan Museum (Kraków): 273, 297–298

Armory (Gdańsk), 452, 463; (Kraków), 283; (Malbork Castle), 518–519

Artĕl (Prague): 125, 126

Art Gallery of the Central Bohemian Region (Kutná Hora): 166

Art Nouveau: Bratislava, 959, 972; Budapest, 599, 616; Kraków, 258–259, 263, 268–269, 292; Ljubljana, 725, 735, 753; Prague, 70, 76, 77–78, 89, 95, 98–99, 105, 125, 126; Vienna, 871, 902, 903–904, 907

Art of the Orient (Kraków): 283

Artus Court (Gdańsk), 448, 458, 470; (Toruń), 529

Astronomical Clock (Gdańsk), 462; (Prague), 72–73

Astronomical Museum (Eger): 696

Athenaeum (Bucharest): 1040–1041

ATMs: 26, 1078–1082. See also specific destinations

Auction house, in Vienna: 870, 896

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 1117

Augustinian Church (Vienna): 887

Auschwitz-Birkenau: 12–13, 356–374; guided tours, 254–255; maps, 357, 362, 370; orientation, 357–359; reservations, 25, 358; self-guided tour, 359–373; tours, 361, 374; transportation, 357, 374

Austria: 848–944; almanac, 851; climate, 1128; cuisine, 927–928; embassies, 1073; language, 851; tourist office, 1073. See also Vienna

Austrian National Library (Vienna): 887–888

B

Bachkovo Monastery: 1027–1028

Balkan Mountains: 1030–1031

Balkan Peninsula: See Yugoslavia, understanding

Bálna Budapest: 605, 651

Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 26. See also Money

Barber’s Bridge (Český Krumlov): 197

Barbican (Kraków), 255–256; (Warsaw), 401

Bar mleczny: See Milk bars, in Poland

Baroque Library (Eger): 696

Baroque Theater (Český Krumlov): 199, 201–202

Bârsana: 1059

Baščaršija (Sarajevo): 1002

Bata’a (Prague): 126

Batana boats, in Rovinj: 993

Baths: Budapest, 633–645; Eger, 697–699; Egerszálok, 699–702; Sofia, 1020

Batliner Collection (Vienna): 889

Batthyány tér (Budapest): 566, 672

Bay of Kotor: 1007, 1009–1011

Beaches: Black Sea Coast, 1034–1035; Bled Lake, 792–793; Dubrovnik, 988; Hel Peninsula, 511; Hvar, 992; Korčula, 992; Rovinj, 993; Sopot, 507; Split, 991

Bear Pits (Český Krumlov): 198

Beekeeping, in Slovenia: 712, 743, 760–761, 793–794, 809–812

Beer: 1098; Czech Republic, 44, 45, 123, 147, 151–152, 205–206; Hungary, 557, 648–651, 706; Poland, 349, 353, 398, 536; Slovakia, 974, 975; Slovenia, 718–719, 759, 772

Belváros (Budapest): See Pest Downtown

Belvedere Palace (Vienna): 875, 905–907

Beneš, Edvard: 37, 202–203

Berlin Wall (Gdańsk): 467

Biertan Church: 1053

Biking: Bled, 781–782, 784; Budapest, 575, 600; Český Krumlov, 194; Kraków, 250, 254; Ljubljana, 731; Prague, 57; Vienna, 860, 862

Birkenau: See Auschwitz-Birkenau

Biserica Stavropoleos Convent (Bucharest): 1041

Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace (Kraków): 272–273, 294

Black Church (Brașov): 1048

Black Light Theater (Prague): 127–128

Black Madonna House (Prague): 76

Black Madonna of Czestoçhowa: 257–258, 400, 465–466

Black Sea Coast: 1034–1035

Black Tower (Brașov): 1048

Blagaj: 1006

Bled: 778–802; eating, 799–801; helpful hints, 781; map, 782–783; nightlife, 795; sights/activities, 786–795; sleeping, 796–798; tourist information, 779–780; tours, 785; transportation, 780–781, 784, 801–802

Bled, Lake: 14, 777–778, 786–789, 792–793; boating, 787, 788, 790, 792; guided tours, 785; maps, 779, 804–805; swimming, 792–793

Bled Adventure Park: 793

Bled Car Train: 830–831

Bled Castle: 789–792

Bled Island: 787–789

Blejska Grad: 789–792

Blejski Otok: 787–789

Blue Church of St. Elisabeth (Bratislava): 972

Boat travel and cruises: map, 1107; Bled Lake, 787, 788, 790, 792; Bohinj Lake, 815; Bratislava, 978; Budapest, 582, 603–604; Croatia, 986; Danube River, 582, 603–604, 978; Gdańsk, 503; Gdynia, 503, 510; Hel Peninsula, 503, 511; Ljubljana, 732; Vltava River, 206–207; Westerplatte, 503

Bohemia: 31, 33; map, 31. See also Český Krumlov; Prague

Bohinj, Lake: 813–816

Boka waterfall: 829

Bone Church (Kutná Hora): 169–171

Books, recommended: 1122–1123

Border crossings: 1074, 1110; and VAT, 1084–1085

Bosch, Hieronymus: 903

Bosnia-Herzegovina: 17, 982–983, 998–1006; almanac, 1001; cuisine, 999–1000; currency, 1001; history, 1001; map, 999; top destinations, 1000–1006; tourist office, 1073; transportation, 998–999

Bosnian convertible marks: 1001

Bosnian Jewish Museum (Sarajevo): 1002

Bosnian language: 1000

Bovec: 828–829, 832–837; eating, 828–829, 836; sights/activities, 828–829, 833–834; sleeping, 834–835; tourist information, 832; transportation, 832, 837

Bovec Airport: 834

Boyadzhiev, Zlatyu: 1024

Boyana Church (Sofia): 1021

Bożego Ciała street (Kraków): 306–307

Boznańska, Olga: 263, 413

Bran Castle: 1049

Brașov: 1036–1037, 1046, 1048–1049; castles near, 1049, 1051; eating, 1049; sleeping, 1049

Bratislava: 17, 948–979; eating, 974–977; helpful hints, 949–951; history of, 962–963; maps, 954–956; planning tips, 948–949; self-guided walk, 952–965; sights/activities, 952–973; sleeping, 973–974; tourist information, 949; tours, 951–952; transportation, 977–979

Bratislava Airport: 944, 979

Bratislava Castle and Museum: 969–970

Bratislava City Card: 949

Bratislava City History Museum: 959, 967–968

Bratislava City Theater: 960

Bratislava Main Square: 958–959, 966–967

Bratislava Old Market Hall: 960, 975–976

Bratislava Old Town Hall: 958–959

Bratislava Promenade Square: 961–963; eating, 976

Bratislavská (Bratislava): 975

“Broadway Quarter” (Budapest): 612–613

Broz, Josip: See Tito

Brukenthal Museum (Sibiu): 1054–1055

Bucharest: 1036, 1040–1044; eating, 1044; sleeping, 1044

Bucovina: 1037, 1061–1065

Buda (Budapest): 565–567, 622–634; at a glance, 587; baths, 640–645; cafés, 675; eating, 671–672; maps, 623, 660; sights, 622–634; sleeping, 657, 661

Buda Hills (Budapest): 632

Budapest: 14, 563–677; at a glance, 586–587; arrival in, 567–573; baths, 633–645; best views, 576; cafés, 673–674; eating, 662–675; entertainment, 645–648; excursion areas, 678–684; helpful hints, 573–576; history of, 568; layout of, 564–567; neighborhoods, 564–567; nightlife, 648–651; planning tips, 563–564; rip-offs, 573–574; shopping, 651–653; sights/activities, 583–645; sleeping, 653–661; tourist information, 567; tours, 581–583; transportation, 567–573, 576–581, 675–677. See also specific neighborhoods

Budapest Card: 567, 577

Budapest City Park: 586, 620; map, 618–619

Budapest Great Synagogue: 586, 606–609

Budapest History Museum: 626, 628

Budapest Liszt Ferenc Airport: 572–573

Budapest Museum of Ethnography: 617–618

Budapest Museum of Fine Arts: 617

Budapest Retro Experience: 599

Budapest Spring Festival: 1120

Budapest Uprising (1956): See Hungarian Uprising

Budgeting: 23–24

Budva Riviera: 1007, 1012–1013

Buje: 994

Bulgaria: 17, 983, 1014–1035; almanac, 1016; cuisine, 1015–1016; currency, 1016; history, 1016; map, 1015; top destinations, 1017–1035; tours, 1017; transportation, 1014–1015

Bulgarian language: 1017

Bull’s Blood (wine): 558, 685, 702, 703

Buna River: 1006

Burggarten (Vienna): 888

Burg Kino (Vienna): 918

Buses (bus travel): 1108; best three-week trip, 20–21; map, 1107; Auschwitz, 374; Bled, 780, 801; Bohinj Lake, 813–814; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 998–999; Bratislava, 978; Budapest, 580, 582, 676; Bulgaria, 1014–1015; Český Krumlov, 192, 214; Eger, 687, 706–707; Gdańsk, 447; Julian Alps, 818; Kraków, 245–246, 249, 355; Ljubljana, 727, 730–731, 774–775; Prague, 58–61, 158; Romania, 1039; Toruń, 527, 537; Vienna, 856–857, 858–859, 861–862, 943; Warsaw, 382, 386, 442

Bush, George H. W.: 597

Butchers’ Bridge (Ljubljana): 740

Butterfly House (Vienna): 888

Buzludzha: 1030–1031

C

Cabs: 1108–1109; tipping, 1082. See also specific destinations

Café Mondieu (Bratislava): 959

Café Sacher (Vienna): 865–866

Café Tirolerhof (Vienna): 867, 938

Camera obscura: 696–697

Canadian embassies and consulates: 1074

Canaletto: 391, 393, 405, 898

Canyoning: 832

Caravaggio: 898–899

Car insurance: 1112

Car rentals: 23, 1109–1112. See also specific destinations

Car travel (driving): 1113–1115; distance and time, 1111; navigation options, 1112–1113; road signs, 1113; Bay of Kotor, 1009–1010; Bled, 780–781, 802, 830–831; Bohinj Lake, 814; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 999; Budapest, 573, 677; Bulgaria, 1015; Český Krumlov, 192; Eger, 687; Julian Alps, 818–832; Konopiště Castle, 186; Kraków, 246; Ljubljana, 727; Montenegro, 1007–1008; Romania, 1039

Casinos: 830, 867

Castle Gardens (Český Krumlov): 203

Castle Hill (Budapest): 565–566, 622–632; cafés, 632, 675; eating, 671–672; map, 623

Castle Quarter (Prague): 51–52, 105–124; at a glance, 65; eating, 147–148; maps, 106–107, 134–135

Castle Square (Prague): 119–120

Castle Square (Warsaw): 387, 397–399, 402–403

Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin (Veliko Tarnovo): 1033

Cathedral of Two Saint Johns (Toruń): 530–531

Cavtat: 1010

Ceaușescu, Nicolae: 1036, 1038, 1041, 1042, 1043–1044, 1046, 1048

Celetná street (Prague): 58, 76, 124

Cell (mobile) phones: 26, 1102–1103. See also Apps

“Central Europe”: use of term, 7–8

Central Mineral Baths (Sofia): 1020

Central Park (Cluj): 1056

Ceremonial Hall (Prague): 87

Černín Palace (Prague): 123–124

České Budějovice: 213–214

Český Krumlov: 12, 190–214; eating, 212–213; helpful hints, 192, 194; history of, 202–203; layout of, 191–192; map, 193; planning tips, 191; self-guided walk, 195–199; sights/activities, 194–209; sleeping, 209–211; tourist information, 192; tours, 194; transportation, 192, 213–214

Český Krumlov Castle: 197–203

Český Krumlov Main Square: 196–197

Český Krumlov Museum of Regional History: 195–196, 205

Český Krumlov Synagogue: 204

Cetinje: 1011, 1013

Chain Bridge (Budapest): 564, 599–600

Changing of the Guard: Budapest, 628; Prague, 110–111; Warsaw, 395

Charles Bridge (Prague): 52, 57, 64, 82–83; map, 68–69

Charles IV Square (Prague): 80–81

Charles University (Prague): 76–77

Chełmoński, Józef: 286, 287, 412

Chocolate: 233, 390, 436–437, 763, 808, 871

Chopin, Fryderyk: 391, 397, 413–414, 428–429, 530; birth house (Zelazowa Wola), 414; concerts, 414, 428, 430–431; Museum (Warsaw), 413–414, 431

Chopin International Airport (Warsaw): 381

Christ Bearing the Cross statue (Warsaw): 392

Christmas markets: 19, 959

Church of the Assumption (Lake Bled): 788

Church of the Nativity (Arbanasi): 1034

Church of the Nuns of the Visitation (Warsaw): 392–393

Cimrman, Jára: 31, 40

Citadella (Budapest): 633

City Museum of Ljubljana: 733, 747

Civic Center (Bucharest): 1041, 1043

Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 1116–1117

Climate: 1128–1129

Cloth Hall (Kraków): 252, 264–265, 284–288, 331

Clothing sizes: 1128

Cluj-Napoca: 1055–1056

Cobblers’ Bridge (Ljubljana): 725, 745

Coffee, Viennese: 936–937

Cold War Museum (Prague): 64–65, 94–95

Cold War Museum (Warsaw): 400

Collegium Maius (Kraków): 266–267, 296–297

Comăneci, Nadia: 1038

Communism: 1068–1071; Bulgaria, 1019–1021, 1024, 1030, 1034; Czech Republic, 37–38, 92–96, 98, 101–102, 104; Hungary, 550–552, 568, 677–682; Poland, 225–227, 328–330, 386, 388–389; Romania, 1041, 1042, 1057; Slovakia, 950–951, 970–972

Communism Museum (Prague): 65, 98

Concentration camps: Auschwitz-Birkenau, 356–374; Terezín, 175–185

Congress Square (Ljubljana): 748–749

Consulates: 1073–1074

Contemporary History Museum (Ljubljana): 733, 758–759

Cooperative Bank (Ljubljana): 738

Copernicus, Nicolaus: 123, 222, 266, 327, 390–391, 416, 529–530; House (Toruń), 534–535

Copernicus Science Center (Warsaw): 387, 414–415

Čopova (Ljubljana): 735

Coppersmiths’ Street (Mostar): 1005

Corvin Castle: 1055

Cosău River Valley: 1059

Costs of trip: 23–24

Costume jewelry and beads, shopping for: 125–126

Court Theater (Budapest): 628

Covid-19 pandemic: 231; entry requirements, 1072

Cracow: See Kraków

“Craftspeople Street” (Veliko Tarnovo): 1032–1033

Crane (Gdańsk): 459, 473

Credit cards: 26, 1078–1082, 1112

Croatia: 17, 982, 984–997; accommodations, overview, 985–986; almanac, 986; cuisine, 986–987; history, 986; map, 985; overview, 984–987; top destinations, 987–997; tourist office, 1073

Croatian kunas: 986, 1001

Croatian language: 987

Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Zagreb): 995–996

Croatian Parliament (Zagreb): 995

Croatian wines: 989, 994

Crooked House (Sopot): 506

Crown Treasury (Kraków): 283

Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises

Cuisine: See Eating; and specific destinations

Čumil (Bratislava): 961

Curie, Marie: 402; Museum (Warsaw), 387, 401, 408

Currency and exchange: 1078–1080; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 1001; Bulgaria, 1016; Croatia, 986; Czech Republic, 32, 1079; Hungary, 542, 574, 1079; Montenegro, 1008; Poland, 219, 1079; Romania, 1038; Slovakia, 953; Slovenia, 714

Customs regulations: 1085

Cyril and Methodius Square (Ljubljana): 741

Cyrillic alphabet: 1000, 1009, 1017, 1018, 1100–1101

Czartoryski Museum (Kraków): 252, 258, 288–292

Czech crowns: 32, 1079

Czech dumplings (knedlíky): 42, 149

Czech language: 44, 46–48; restaurant phrases, 48; survival phrases, 47

Czech Museum of Silver (Kutná Hora): 166, 169, 173–174

Czech Philharmonic (Prague): 128

Czech puppets: 125, 205

Czech Republic: 30–214; at a glance, 12; almanac, 32; climate, 1128; cuisine, 41–43, 139–140; currency, 32, 1079; embassies, 1073; helpful hints, 33; history, 33–39, 202–203; map, 31; movies, 1123–1124; overview, 30–46; today, 39, 41; tourist office, 1073. See also Český Krumlov; Prague

Czech State Opera (Prague): 129

D

Dalmatian Coast: 984, 987–992

Dalmatian Islands: 991–992

Danube Bend: 683–684

Danube Canal (Vienna): 917; eating, 934

Danube Promenade (Budapest): 603–604

Danube River: Bratislava, 948, 978; Budapest, 563, 564–565, 582, 599–601, 603–604, 683; cruises, 582, 603–604, 978; Vienna, 852

Da Vinci, Leonardo: 290–291

Deák Ferenc utca (Budapest): 602

Deák ter (Budapest): 610

Debit cards: 26, 1078–1082

De Gaulle, Charles: 388, 395

Déli/Southern Station (Budapest): 572

Demel (Vienna): 871

Demjén Thermal Baths (Egerszálok): 700–702

Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations

Dinosaurs: 605–606, 755–756, 901–902

Diocletian: 986, 989–990

Discounts: See Money-saving tips

Dísz tér (Budapest): 628

Divine Mercy Sanctuary (Kraków): 318–320

Dlouhá street (Prague): 126, 144

Dobó, István: 691–692

Dobó Square (Eger): 691–693

Dobó utca (Budapest): 693

Dobrá Čajovna (Český Krumlov), 213; (Kutná Hora), 174; (Prague), 154

Dominican Church (Kraków): 271–272, 297

Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik): 988

Donaukanal (Vienna): 917

Dornk Excursion Farm: 794–795

Dorotheum (Vienna): 870, 896

Dracula: 1046, 1049, 1050, 1051–1052

Dragon Bridge (Ljubljana): 740–741

Driving: See Car travel

Dubček, Alexander: 37, 93, 95

Dubrovnik: 987–989; eating, 988–989; sleeping, 988

Dubrovnik Cathedral: 987–988

Dubrovnik City Walls: 988

Dürer, Albrecht: 617, 866, 888

Dzhumaya Mosque (Plovdiv): 1026

E

Easter: 1120; in Poland, 220

“Eastern Europe”: use of term, 7

Eastern Orthodox Church: overview, 1025

Eating: 1097–1102; Austria, 851, 927–928; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 999–1000; budgeting, 23; Bulgaria, 1015–1016; Croatia, 986–987; Czech Republic, 41–43, 139–140; Hungary, 554–557; money-saving tips, 24; Montenegro, 1008; Poland, 231–235; restaurant pricing and hours, 1099, 1102; Romania, 1039; Slovakia, 974–975; Slovenia, 717–720, 769, 800. See also specific destinations

Economy: Austria, 851; Czech Republic, 32; Hungary, 542; Poland, 219, 231; Slovakia, 953; Slovenia, 713

Eger: 14, 685–707; baths, 697–699; eating, 705–706; helpful hints, 688; map, 686; planning tips, 686–687; self-guided walk, 688–693; sights/activities, 688–703; sleeping, 703–704; tourist information, 687; transportation, 687, 706–707

Eger Castle: 693–695

Eger Cathedral: 689–690

Eger Lyceum: 688–689, 695–697

Eger Market Hall: 688

Eger Minaret: 692

Egerszalók: 703; baths, 699–702, 707; wineries, 703

Eger Thermal Bath: 698

Eger Town Hall: 691

Eger Turkish Bath: 698–699

Eger wine: 558, 685, 687, 693, 699, 702, 703, 706

Elaphite Islands: 988

Electricity: 1075

Elektrownia Powiśle (Warsaw): 415, 437, 439–440

Elisabeth, Empress: See Sisi, Empress

Elisabeth Bridge (Budapest): 564–565

Embassies: 1073–1074

Emergencies: 1073. See also specific destinations

Emigration Museum (Gdynia): 508–511

Entertainment: budgeting, 23. See also Music; and specific destinations

Environmental footprint (going green): 1078

Equitable Building (Vienna): 869

Estates Theater (Prague): 76, 129

Esztergom Basilica: 683–684

Eszterházy tér (Eger): 688–689

ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System): 25, 1072–1073

Euphemia, Saint: 993

Euro currency: 713, 953, 1008, 1079

European Solidarity Center (Gdańsk): 448, 480–485, 502

European Union (EU): 1083; Bulgaria, 1016; Czech Republic, 39; Hungary, 552–553; Montenegro, 1008; Poland, 227–228; Slovenia, 710–711, 716

Eurovea (Bratislava): 965, 972–973; eating, 976–977

Events: See Festivals

Exchange rates: See Currency and exchange

F

Fahrenheit, Daniel: 455, 458

Fairy Tale House (Český Krumlov): 205

Falk, Peter: 601

Falk Miksa utca (Budapest): 592, 601, 651

“Fashion Street” (Budapest): 602

Ferhadija (Sarajevo): 1002

Festivals: 1119–1121; Český Krumlov, 192, 194, 1119, 1120; Vienna, 917–918, 1120

Films, recommended: 1123–1127

Fishermen’s Bastion (Budapest): 632

Fishmarket Square (Gdańsk): 473

Flag: Austria, 851; Czech Republic, 32; Hungary, 542; Poland, 219; Slovakia, 953; Slovenia, 713

Florian Gate (Kraków): 257–258

Floriańska street (Kraków): 258–259

Foksal street (Warsaw): 390, 436

Fontanna Cosmopolis (Toruń): 535

Food. See also Eating; and specific destinations

Food tours: Bled, 785; Kraków, 254; Vienna, 861; Warsaw, 383, 386

Fortified Saxon churches, in Romania: 1052–1054

Forum (Gdańsk): 452, 494

Forum Przestrzenie (Kraków): 340

Fountain of Three Carniolian Rivers (Ljubljana): 742–743

Franciscan Garden (Prague): 97

Franciscan Monastery (Dubrovnik): 988

Frank, Anne: 364

Franz Ferdinand, Archduke of Austria: 184, 185–189, 873, 880, 891, 1002

Franz Josef, Emperor: 187, 547, 575, 610, 612, 630, 683, 725, 741, 876, 927, 1019, 1045; biographical sketch, 882; Hofburg (Vienna), 872–873, 879–883; Schönbrunn (Vienna), 909–912

Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof (Vienna): 942

Franz Liszt Academy of Music (Budapest): 613, 647

Franz Liszt Museum (Budapest): 616

Franz Liszt Square (Budapest): 613, 648–649

French Revolution Square (Ljubljana): 748

Freud, Sigmund: 88; Museum (Vienna), 908

Freud (Sigmund) Museum (Vienna): 908

Fruit Market (Prague): 76

Fryderyk Chopin International Airport (Warsaw): 381

Füzesabony: 706

G

Gabrovo: 1031

Galerija Emporium (Ljubljana): 735

Galicia Jewish Museum (Kraków): 309

Gallery of Masterpieces (Warsaw): 406

Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art (Kraków): 252, 265, 284–288

Garnets, shopping for: 125

GASK (Kutná Hora): 166

Gazi Husrev-Bey Mosque (Sarajevo): 1002

Gdańsk: 13, 443–503; at a glance, 448; eating, 499–502; entertainment, 494–495; excursion areas, 503–511; history of, 454–455, 476–477, 479; layout of, 445–446; maps, 450–451, 496–497, 504; planning tips, 443–445; self-guided walks, 449–467; shopping, 494; sights/activities, 449–494; sleeping, 495–499; tourist information, 446; tours, 447, 449; transportation, 446–447, 502–503

Gdańsk, Historical Zone of the Free City of: 458, 472

Gdańsk Archaeological Museum: 459, 472

Gdańsk Armory: 452, 463

Gdańsk Main Town: See Main Town

Gdańsk Main Town Hall: 448, 457, 468–470

Gdańsk Market Hall: 464

Gdańsk National Maritime Museum: 472–473

Gdańsk Old Town Hall: 467

Gdańsk Shakespeare Theater: 473

Gdańsk Shipyard: 445, 448, 467, 474–480

Gdańsk Tourist Card: 446

Gdynia: 503, 507–5511

Gellért Baths (Budapest): 587, 633–634, 640–643; map, 642

Gellért Hill (Budapest): 566, 633–634

Genealogical research: 1088–1089

Geography: Austria, 851; Bosnia-Herzegovina, 1001; Bulgaria, 1016; Croatia, 986; Czech Republic, 32; Hungary, 542; Montenegro, 1008; Poland, 219; Romania, 1038; Slovakia, 953; Slovenia, 713

Georgian cuisine: 234

Gerbeaud (Budapest): 602

German language: 851, 1101; restaurant phrases, 946; survival phrases, 945

Ghetto Heroes Square (Kraków), 311; (Warsaw), 417–418

Gingerbread: 530, 532, 534, 813

Gingerbread Museum (Toruń): 534

Gloriette (Vienna): 912

Gödöllő Royal Palace (Budapest): 683

Golden Gate (Gdańsk), 452–453; (Prague), 116

Golden Lane (Prague): 118

GoOpti (Slovenia): 773–776, 801–802

Goose That Laid the Golden Egg (Toruń): 532

Gornji trg (Ljubljana): 744, 769

Government: Austria, 851; Czech Republic, 32, 39, 41; Hungary, 542, 553–554; Poland, 219, 228–229; Slovakia, 953; Slovenia, 713, 716–717. See also Parliament

Gozsdu Udvar (Budapest): 609, 650, 665

Graben (Vienna): 869–870

Gradec (Zagreb): 995

Granary Island (Gdańsk): 459, 498–499

Grand Canyon of Soča: 827

Grand Hotel Sopot: 507

Grand Hotel Union (Ljubljana): 735, 738

Great Boulevard (Budapest): 565; cafés, 674

Great Kozjak Waterfall: 842–843

Great Market Hall (Budapest): 586, 604–605, 651, 670–671

Great Mill (Gdańsk): 466

Great Synagogue (Budapest): 586, 606–609

Green Gate (Gdańsk): 458

Gresham Palace (Budapest): 599

Grodzka street (Kraków): 269–272; milk bars, 350–351

Grožnjan: 994

Grunwald Monument (Kraków): 257

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1116; updates, 27, 1116

Gura Humorului: sleeping, 1065

Gutenberg Printing House Museum (Kutná Hora): 166

Gypsies: See Roma

H

Haas Haus (Vienna): 869

Habsburg Empire: overview, 7–8, 35–36, 122, 546–548, 714–715, 848–849, 986. See also specific rulers and sights

Hajós utca (Budapest): 653

Hala Koszyki (Warsaw): 438

Halik, Tony: 535

“Hatters Street” (Bratislava): 959

Hauptmann House (Ljubljana): 735

Haus der Musik (Vienna): 874, 877, 895–896, 913

Havel, Václav: 30–31, 38, 39, 95, 96, 122, 485

Havelská Market (Prague): 64, 79, 124, 139–140

Havlíček Square (Kutná Hora): 168–169

Haydn, Joseph: 873, 876, 896, 965

Heldenplatz (Vienna): 873, 876

Hel Peninsula: 503, 511

Hemingway, Ernest: 715, 825, 826, 837, 841

Herceg Novi: 1010

Heroes’ Square (Budapest): 586, 616–617; map, 618–619

Heurigen, in Vienna: 938–940

Heweliusz Park (Gdańsk): 466

Heydrich, Reinhard: 36

High Synagogue (Kraków): 310

Hiking: Bled, 786, 789–790; Budapest, 622, 624; Český Krumlov, 206; Kobarid, 843; Kotor, 1011–1012; Kozjak Waterfall, 842–843; Motovun, 994; Mount Triglav, 822, 824–825; Plitvice Lakes, 996–997; Savica Waterfall, 816; Sirens’ Valley, 702–703; Split, 991; Vintgar Gorge, 803, 806; Vogel Mountain, 815–816

Hill of the Cross (Český Krumlov): 206

Hindliyan House (Plovdiv): 1024

Hiša Franko (Kobarid): 846

Historical Zone of the Free City of Gdańsk: 458, 472

History: understanding Yugoslavia, 1066–1071. See also Communism; Habsburg Empire; World War I; World War II; and specific destinations

Hockey: 785, 820

Hofburg Palace (Vienna): 872–873, 874, 877–889; eating, 878–879, 929; Imperial Apartments, 872–873, 874, 879–883; map, 878; Treasury, 873, 874, 883–885; World Museum Vienna, 873, 874, 885–886

Holešovice Train Station (Prague): 157–158

Holidays: 1119–1121

Hollein, Hans: 869

Holocaust Memorial (Bratislava): 963–964

Holocaust Memorial Center (Budapest): 586, 621–622

Holocaust Monument (Budapest): 593

Holy Cross Chapel (Kraków): 277–278

Holy Cross Chapel (Prague): 110

Holy Cross Church (Warsaw): 391–392

Holy House (Prague): 124

Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sibiu): 1054

Holy Trinity Church (Kraków): 297

Holy Trinity Plague Column (Vienna): 870

Horní Bridge (Český Krumlov): 195

Horní Street (Český Krumlov): 195–196

Horseback riding: 732

Horse market, in Ocna Șugatag: 1059

Horses, Lipizzaner stallions, in Vienna: 875, 886–887

Hospital in the Rock and Nuclear Bunker (Budapest): 587, 632

Hostel Celica (Ljubljana): 730, 762, 768

Hostels: overview, 1096–1097. See also specific destinations

Hotels: overview, 1092–1095; rates and deals, 23–24, 1091–1092; reservations, 1096–1097. See also specific destinations

Hotel Bristol (Warsaw): 393, 433–434

Hotel Růže (Český Krumlov): 196

Hotel u Prince (Prague): 57, 145

Hot springs: See Baths

House by the Bell (Prague): 72

House of Music Hungary (Budapest): 586, 618–619, 647

House of Terror (Budapest): 586, 613–616

House of the Batana Boat (Rovinj): 993

House of the Black Madonna (Prague): 76

Hradčany (Prague): See Castle Quarter

Hrádek Castle (Kutná Hora): 173–174

Huet Square (Sibiu): 1054

Humor Monastery: 1065

Hundertwasserhaus (Vienna): 907

Hunedoara Castle: 1055

Hungária Koncert (Budapest): 648

Hungarian Agriculture Museum (Budapest): 620

Hungarian forints: 542, 574, 1079

Hungarian Jewish Museum (Budapest): 608

Hungarian language: 559–562, 1100–1101; restaurant phrases, 562; survival phrases, 561

Hungarian National Gallery (Budapest): 587, 626

Hungarian National Museum (Budapest): 587, 605–606

Hungarian Parliament (Budapest): 575, 583, 586, 588–589; tickets, 25, 588

Hungarian State Opera House (Budapest): 586, 610, 612, 646–647

Hungarian Uprising (1956): 551, 568, 590–591, 592–593, 682; monuments, in Budapest, 575, 592–593, 615–616

Hungary: 540–707; at a glance, 14; almanac, 542; climate, 1128; cuisine, 554–557; currency, 542, 574, 1079; embassies, 1074; helpful hints, 542–543; history, 543–552; LGBTQ+ travel, 1076–1077; map, 541; movies, 1125; overview, 540–562; today, 552–554; tourist office, 1073. See also Budapest; Eger

Hunger Wall (Prague): 104

Hunyadi, János: 545, 627, 1055

Hus, Jan: 31, 34–35, 40, 67–68, 77, 112, 122, 170, 1121; biographical sketch, 71; Memorial (Prague), 67–68

Hvar Island: 991–992

Hviezdoslavovo Námestie (Bratislava): 961–963; eating, 976

I

Idrija: 830

Image Theater (Prague): 127–128

Imperial Apartments (Hofburg; Vienna): 872–873, 874, 879–883

Imperial Apartments (Schönbrunn Palace; Vienna): 909–913

Imperial Carriage Museum (Vienna): 913

Imperial Crypt (Vienna): 868, 874, 889, 891

Imperial Furniture Collection (Vienna): 875, 909–910

Imperial Music Chapel (Vienna): 873, 914

Independence Square (Sofia): 1019

In der Burg (Vienna): 873

Infant of Prague: 104

Information: 1073. See also specific destinations

Internet security: 1103

Isaac Synagogue (Kraków): 306, 340, 352

Iskra-Kazanlak Historical Museum (Kazanlak): 1029–1030

Istria: 984, 993–995; transportation, 774–775. See also Rovinj

Istrian hill towns: 994

István (Stephen), Saint: 544, 598, 631–632, 633, 683–684, 691, 693–694, 1121

Italian Court (Kutná Hora): 169

Italian Mausoleum (Kobarid): 840, 842

Italy: Predel Pass, 831

Itineraries: designing your own, 18–19, 22; top destinations, 12–17. See also specific destinations

J

Jadrolinija: 986

Jadwiga, Saint: 221–222, 277, 521

Jagiellonian University (Kraków): 266–267, 296–297

Jalta Hotel (Prague): 94–95

J & L Lobmeyr Crystal (Vienna): 868

Jan Hus Memorial (Prague): 67–68

Janković, Zoran: 716, 725, 740

Jankowski, Henryk: 465–466

Jasna: 823

Jászai Mari Tér (Budapest): 601

Jelačić Square (Zagreb): 995

Jerusalem Avenue (Warsaw): 386, 388

Jesenice: 819–820

Jewish Cemeteries (Kraków): 253, 301–302, 303, 309–310

Jewish Community Center (Kraków): 310

Jewish Ghetto (Warsaw): 416–424

Jewish Local History Collection of Elisabethtown (Budapest): 610

Jewish (Judenplatz) Memorial (Vienna): 897

Jewish Museums (Budapest), 608; (Kraków), 309; (Prague), 83–88; (Sarajevo), 1002; (Vienna), 897; (Warsaw), 418, 420–423

Jewish Quarter (Budapest): 583, 605–610; eating, 662–665. See also Seventh Disrict

Jewish Quarter (Kraków): See Kazimierz

Jewish Quarter (Prague): 51, 64, 83–89; eating, 145; guided tours, 66; map, 84; shopping, 125

John of Nepomuk, Saint: 82–83, 115, 197

John Paul II, Pope (Karol Wojtyła): 240, 241, 247, 266–268, 317–324, 391–392, 393–394, 475, 478, 484, 631, 742, 809, 1125; Archdiocesan Museum (Kraków), 273, 297–298; biographical sketch, 270–271; Chapel (Kraków), 277; Family Home Museum (Wadowice), 322–324; Great Sanctuary (Kraków), 320–321; Wawel Cathedral Museum (Kraków), 278–279

John Paul II Great Sanctuary (Kraków): 320–321

John Paul II Kraków-Balice Airport: 246–248

Jósef, Attila: 593

Josefov (Prague): See Jewish Quarter

Josefsplatz (Vienna): 872, 886

Joyce, James: 144

Józefa street (Kraków): 307, 334, 340

Jože Plečnik House (Ljubljana): 733, 748, 752–754

Judah Square (Kraków): 308, 351–352

Julian Alps: 14, 817–846; map, 820–821; planning tips, 817–818; self-guided driving tour, 818–832; tours, 784, 818; transportation, 818. See also Bled

K

Kaffee Mayer (Bratislava): 959

Kafka, Franz: 88, 94, 1123

Kaiserappartements (Vienna): 872–873, 874, 879–883

Kaisergruft (Vienna): 868, 874, 889, 891

Kaiserliche Schatzkammer Wien (Vienna): 873, 874, 883–885

Kampa Island (Prague): 101–102

Kanonicza street (Kraków): 272–273

Kapana (Plovdiv): 1026

Karlova street (Prague): 58, 80, 124–125

Karlskirche (Vienna): 875, 903

Karlsplatz (Vienna): 902

Kärntner Gate (Vienna): 865

Kärntner Strasse (Vienna): 853, 867–868

Karski, Jan: 302–303, 417–418

Kazanlak: 1028–1029; sleeping, 1029–1030

Kazimierz (Kraków): 240–241, 298–310; eating, 351–354; maps, 301, 338, 352; nightlife, 337–340, 354; shopping, 334; sights, 298–310; sleeping, 346

Kazimierz (the Great): 221, 246, 261, 264, 275, 277, 279, 300

Kazimierz Market Square (Kraków): 307–308

Kazimierz Monument (Kraków): 300

Keleti/Eastern Station (Budapest): 569

Kinský Palace (Prague): 70

Király utca (Budapest): 652–653

Klagenfurt Airport: 776

Klášterní Pivovar (Prague): 123, 147

Klausen Synagogue (Prague): 87

Klauzál Market (Budapest): 665

Klementinum (Prague): 80

Kleť Mountain: 195

Klezmer music, in Kraków: 303, 304, 337–340

Klimt, Gustav: 902–906

Kluže Fortress: 828

Knin Cable Car (Bovec): 834

Kobarid: 829, 837–846; eating, 845–846; map, 838; sights/activities, 829, 838–844; sleeping, 844–845; tourist information, 837–838

Kobarid Museum: 829, 838–840

Kohlmarkt (Vienna): 871

Kolbe, Saint Maksymilian: 268, 365, 366–367, 689

Kolodko Minis: 596

Kolovrat Outdoor Museum (Kobarid): 843–844

Konopiště Castle: 185–189

Konstantsalieva House (Arbanasi): 1034

Korčula: 992

Korczak, Janusz: 419, 422

Kościuszko, Tadeusz: 223, 274, 278, 285–286, 331, 405

Kościuszko Mound (Kraków): 330–331

Koski Mehmet-Pasha Mosque (Mostar): 1005

Kosmatka: 1028–1029

Kossuth, Lajos: 592

Kossuth tér (Budapest): 589, 592–593

Kostnice v Sedlci (Kutná Hora): 169–171

Kotor: 1010–1012; eating, 1012; sleeping, 1012

Kotor City Walls: 1011–1012

Kozjak Waterfall: 842–843

Krakovo (Ljubljana): 726, 748

Kraków: 12, 239–355; at a glance, 252–253; eating, 346–354; entertainment, 335–340; helpful hints, 248–249; history, 246–247; layout of, 240–241; maps, 242–243, 301, 332–333, 338, 344–345, 352; neighborhoods, 240–241; planning tips, 239–240; self-guided walk, 255–273; shopping, 331–335; sights/activities, 255–331; sleeping, 341–346; tourist information, 241, 244; tours, 250–255; transportation, 244–248, 249–250, 355

Kraków City Walls: 255–256

Kraków Cloth Hall: 252, 264–265, 284–288, 331

Kraków Ethnographic Museum: 307–308

Kraków Main Market Square: 252, 262, 264; eating, 346–347; entertainment, 335

Krakowskie Przedmiešcie (Warsaw): 390–397

Kraków Tourist Card: 241

Kraków Town Hall Tower: 265–266

Kralov Med Beehive Demonstration (Selo): 793–794

Kranjc Tourist Farm: 845

Kranjska Gora: 822

Križanke Theater (Ljubljana): 747–748

Křížový Vrch: 206

Krumlov Castle (Český Krumlov): 197–203

Krzysztofory Palace (Kraków): 296

Kubicki Arcades (Warsaw): 406–407

Kucinich, Dennis: 986

Kugy, Julius: 825

Kukliński, Ryszard: 400

Kunst Haus Wien Museum (Vienna): 875, 907

Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna): 874, 898–901

Kupa Synagogue (Kraków): 310

Kurja Vas: 820

Kursalon (Vienna): 916–917

Kürtőskalács: 673

Kutná Hora: 161–175; eating, 174–175; map, 164–165; self-guided walk, 165–169; sights/activities, 165–174; sleeping, 174–175; tourist information, 163; transportation, 163, 164, 175

L

Lady with an Ermine (da Vinci): 290–291

Lake Bled region: 777–802; map, 779. See also Bled

Lángos: 605, 669, 670, 672–673

Language: 28; Austria, 851; Bosnia, 1000; Croatia, 987; Czech Republic, 44, 46–48; restaurant phrases, 48; survival phrases, 47; German restaurant phrases, 946; German survival phrases, 945; Hungary, 559–562, 1100–1101; restaurant phrases, 562; survival phrases, 561; Montenegro, 1009; online translation tip, 1078; place names pronunciation, 1131; Poland, 235–238; restaurant phrases, 238; survival phrases, 237; Romania, 1039; Slovakia, 953; Slovenia, 720–722; restaurant phrases, 722; survival phrases, 721

Language barrier: 445, 1100–1101

Laurinská Street (Bratislava): 960

Łazienki Park (1944): 387, 428–429, 430

Legenda Cruises (Budapest): 582, 603–604

Lennon Wall (Prague): 103–104

Leopold Museum (Vienna): 902

Leopold Town (Budapest): 565, 583, 588–601; maps, 584–585, 667; sights, 583, 588–601; sleeping, 657

Lepena Valley: 827–828

Lesce: 773, 780, 801

Lesser Town (Prague): 52, 100–105; at a glance, 65; eating, 145–147; maps, 102–103, 134–135; nightlife, 129–130; sights, 100–105; sleeping, 132–133, 138

Lesser Town Square (Prague): 100–101

LGBTQ+ travel: 1076–1077

Liberation Monuments (Budapest): 633, 680

Liberty Bridge (Budapest): 565, 575

Libeskind, Daniel: 416

Linhartov Trg (Radovljica): 808

Lipizzaner stallions, in Vienna: 875, 886–887

Liszt, Franz: 613; Museum (Budapest), 616

Liszt Ferenc Airport (Budapest): 572–573

Little Dobó Square (Eger): 693

Little Princess, The (Budapest): 603

Little Quarter (Prague): See Lesser Town

Livade: 994

Ljubljana: 14, 723–776; at a glance, 733; best views, 730; eating, 768–773; helpful hints, 730; history of, 724–725; layout of, 725–726; maps, 728–729, 736–737, 766–767; planning tips, 724–725; self-guided walk, 732–749; shopping, 743–744, 762–763; sights/activities, 732–762; sleeping, 764–768; tourist information, 726; tours, 731–732; transportation, 726–727, 730–731, 773–776

Ljubljana Airport: 775–776, 802

Ljubljana Castle: 733, 741, 749–752; eating, 751–752, 771–772

Ljubljana Cathedral: 733, 741–742

Ljubljana City Museum: 733, 747

Ljubljana Contemporary History Museum: 733, 758–759

Ljubljana Main Market Square: 740

Ljubljana Riverside Market: 733, 738–739

Ljubljana Skyscraper: 731, 759–760

Ljubljana Small Market Square: 739–740

Ljubljana Tourist Card: 726

Ljubljana Town Hall: 743

Ljubljana Town Square: 742–743

Ljubljana US Embassy: 756

Ljubljanica River: 725–726, 734, 744; cafés, 772; cruises, 732

Lobkowicz Palace (Prague): 65, 119

Lobmeyr Crystal (Vienna): 868

Log pod Mangartom: eating, 836

Long Market (Gdańsk): 457–458

Loos, Adolf: 871; House (Vienna), 872

Lord’s Ark Church (Kraków): 330

Loreta Church (Prague): 65, 108–109, 124

Loreta Square (Prague): 123–124

Loreto Chapel (Budapest): 630–631

Lost Wawel (Kraków): 283

Lovćen: 1013

Luge, at Lake Bled: 793

Lyceum (Eger): 688–689, 695–697

M

McDonald’s (Budapest): 602

Magic Praha (Prague): 58

Magic Tower (Eger): 696–697

Mail: 1103–1104

Main Market Square (Kraków): 252, 262, 264; eating, 346–347; entertainment, 335

Main Market Square (Ljubljana): 740

Main Town (Gdańsk): 445, 449–463, 467–473; eating, 499–502; map, 450–451; sights, 467–473; sleeping, 495–498

Main Town Hall (Gdańsk): 448, 457, 468–470

Maisel Synagogue (Prague): 85

Maksymilian Kolbe, Saint: 268, 365, 366–367, 689

Malá Strana (Prague): See Lesser Town

Malbork Castle: 513–525; map, 516

Malczewski, Jacek: 263, 288, 412, 413

Maps: See Map Index

Maramureș: 1037, 1056–1059, 1060

Marco Polo: 986, 992

Margaret Bridge (Budapest): 564

Margaret Island (Budapest): 587, 600–601

Mariacka street (Gdańsk): 460, 494

Mariahilfer Strasse (Vienna): 908–909; eating, 936; map, 924–925; sleeping, 922

Maria Theresa, Empress: 101, 104, 111, 175, 589, 688, 790, 810, 848–849, 866, 868–869, 873, 889–891, 909–912, 969; biographical sketch, 889, 890; Monument (Vienna), 876

Maritime Museum of Montenegro (Kotor): 1011

Marjan (Split): 991

Markale Market (Sarajevo): 1003

Markets: Bratislava, 959; Budapest, 586, 604–605, 649, 651, 665, 670–671; Český Krumlov, 194; Christmas, 19, 959; Eger, 688; Gdańsk, 464; Kraków, 257, 264–265, 306, 339–340; Kutná Hora, 167; Ljubljana, 730, 733, 738–739, 739, 762; Prague, 64, 76, 79, 124, 139–140; Sarajevo, 1003; Sofia, 1020; Vienna, 875, 904–905; Warsaw, 438; Zagreb, 996

Martinický Palace (Prague): 120

Mary Magdalene Square (Kraków): 272

Masaryk, Tomáš Garrigue: 36, 120, 122, 168–169, 753

Matejko, Jan: 256, 260, 285–286, 406, 409–411; biographical sketch, 410

Matthias Church (Budapest): 587, 629–631

Mátyás (Matthias) Corvinus: 545–546, 617, 625, 627, 1055, 1056; biographical sketch, 627

Medical emergencies: 1073. See also specific destinations

Medieval Art Museum (Prague): 64, 90

Međugorje: 1006

Mehoffer, Józef: 263, 269, 292, 412–413

Meiselsa street (Kraków): 306–307

Melantrichova street (Prague): 58, 79

Memento Park (Budapest): 587, 677–682; map, 678

Memling, Hans: 444, 491–492

Memorial for the Victims of Communism (Sighet): 1057

Memorial Garden (Budapest): 608

Memorial to the Children of Sarajevo: 1003

Memorial to the Victims of 1969 (Prague): 94

Merry Cemetery: 1059–1060

Meštrović, Ivan: 996, 1013; Gallery (Split), 990–991

Metelkova (Ljubljana): 726, 760–762

Metric conversions: 1127–1128

Metro: Budapest, 576–579; Prague, 58–59, 61–62; Vienna, 856–857, 858–859; Warsaw, 383

Michaelerkirche (Vienna): 875, 891–892

Michaelerplatz (Vienna): 872; eating, 932

Michalská street (Bratislava): 957–958

Michalská street (Prague): 124

Mickiewicz, Adam: 223, 247, 262, 264, 276, 396, 416

Miklošičeva cesta (Ljubljana): 735, 738

Milk bars, in Poland: 230, 272, 349–351, 390, 500

Millennium City Center (Budapest): 648

Millennium Monument (Budapest): 575, 617

Ministry of Agriculture (Budapest): 592

Minorite Church (Eger): 691

Mitoraj, Igor: 265–266

Mlino: 786, 790, 793, 794–795

Młoda Polska: 258–259, 263, 268, 288, 412–413

Mobile phones: 26, 1102–1103. See also Apps

MOCAK (Kraków): 317

Modlin Airport (Warsaw): 381–382

Mokotowska street (Warsaw): 430, 439

Moldovița Monastery: 1064

Money: 26, 1078–1085; average daily expenses, 23; budgeting, 23–24. See also Currency and exchange

Money-saving tips (discounts): 23–24, 1075, 1078; eating, 24; sleeping, 23–24, 1091–1092. See also specific destinations

Monte Cassino Heroes Street (Sopot): 506

Montenegrin language: 1009

Montenegro: 983, 1007–1013; almanac, 1008; cuisine, 1008; currency, 1008; history, 1008; map, 1009; top destinations, 1009–1013; transportation, 1007–1008

Montenegro Maritime Museum (Kotor): 1011

Monument Against War and Fascism (Vienna): 866–867

Monument of the Fallen Shipyard Workers (Gdańsk): 474–477

Monument of the Soviet Army (Sofia): 1020

Monument to the Hungarian Victims of the Nazis (Budapest): 597

Monument to the Victims of All Wars (Ljubljana): 749

Monument to Victims of Communism (Prague): 104

Moser (Prague): 125

Mostar: 998, 1004–1006; eating, 1005–1006; sleeping, 1005

Mostar Old Bridge: 1004–1005

Most SNP (Bratislava): 964, 970–972

Motława River: 458–459, 501–502

Motovun: 994

Mount Straža: 793

Mount Triglav: 822, 824–825

Movies, recommended: 1123–1127

Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus: 76, 129, 890, 896, 965; concerts, 128, 916–917; House (Vienna), 877, 897, 916

Mozarthaus Vienna Museum: 877, 897, 916

Mucha, Alphonse: 36, 78, 112, 114; Museum (Prague), 65, 97–98

Műcsarnok (Budapest): 617

Municipal House (Prague): 64, 77–78, 98–99; eating, 149–150

Museum Kampa (Prague): 101–102

Museum of Broken Relationships (Zagreb): 996

Museum of Communism (Prague): 65, 98

Museum of Contemporary Art in Kraków: 317

Museum of Contemporary Art-Metelkova (Ljubljana): 761

Museum of Ethnography (Budapest): 617–618

Museum of Fine Arts (Budapest): 617

Museum of Gdańsk: 467–470, 467–473

Museum of Hungarian Agriculture (Budapest): 620

Museum of Kraków: 241, 244, 248

Museum of Medieval Art (Prague): 64, 90

Museum of Modern Art (Bratislava), 968–969; (Ljubljana), 756; (Vienna), 902

Museum of Municipal Engineering (Kraków): 308

Museum of Puppetry (Ljubljana): 751

Museum of Regional History (Český Krumlov): 195–196, 205

Museum of Socialist Art (Sofia): 1020–1021

Museum of the History of Polish Jews (Warsaw): 387, 418, 420–423

Museum of the History of Toruń: 533

Museum of the Second World War (Gdańsk): 448, 485–491

Museum of Toruń Gingerbread: 534

Museum of Warsaw: 387, 407–408

MuseumsQuartier (Vienna): 902, 917

Music: Budapest, 586, 618–619, 646–648; Eger, 688; Gdańsk, 494; Kraków, 335–340; Prague, 128–130; Vienna, 853, 856, 873, 913–917, 913–918; Haus der Musik, 874, 877, 895–896, 913; Warsaw, 430–431. See also Opera; and specific composers

Muzeum Fryderyka Chopina (Warsaw): 413–414, 431

Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego (Warsaw): 387, 425, 427–428

Mysia 3 (Warsaw): 430

N

Náci, Schöner: 959, 961

Nagy, Imre: 551–552, 553, 591, 594–595, 601, 616; biographical sketch, 594

Nagymező utca (Budapest): 612

Náměstí Svornosti (Český Krumlov): 191, 196–197

Na Příkopě (Prague): 58, 78–79, 98, 124; sights, 98–99

Národní třída (Prague): 96, 124–125; eating, 150

Naschmarkt (Vienna): 875, 904–905, 917; eating, 936; sleeping near, 922

National and University Library (Ljubljana): 733, 745–746

National Archaeological Museum (Sofia): 1020

National Dance Theater (Budapest): 648

National Gallery (Budapest), 587, 626; (Ljubljana), 756–757

National Library (Vienna): 887–888

National Maritime Museum (Gdańsk): 472–473

National Museum (Budapest), 587, 605–606; (Gdańsk), 491–492; (Kraków), 284–294; (Ljubljana), 755–756; (Prague), 57, 94; (Warsaw), 387, 409–413

National Museum of Romanian History (Bucharest): 1044

National Museum of the Romanian Peasant (Bucharest): 1044

National Palace of Culture (Sofia): 1020

National Theater (Bratislava), 961; (Prague), 129

Nativity of the Virgin Cathedral (Veliko Tarnovo): 1033

Na Valech Gardens (Prague): 119

Nedbalka Gallery of Slovak Modern Art (Bratislava): 968–969

Nerudova street (Prague): 101

Nesebar: 1034–1035

Neuer Markt (Vienna): 868–869

Neustift am Walde: 939–940

“New Europe” and the EU: 1083

New Jewish Cemetery (Kraków): 253, 303, 309–310

New Palace Museums (Vienna): See World Museum Vienna

New Town (Plovdiv): 1026

New Town (Prague): 51, 90–99; at a glance, 64–65; cafés, 153–154; eating, 148–150; maps, 92, 136–137; nightlife, 129; sights, 90–99; sleeping, 138

New Town (Warsaw): 377, 401–402; map, 378; nightlife, 431

New Town Market Square (Toruń): 532

New Town Square (Warsaw): 401

New York Café (Budapest): 613, 674

Njeguši: 1013

Nordic Center (Planica): 822–823

Nova Gorica: 830

Nové Mesto (Prague): See New Town

Nowa Huta (Kraków): 328–330

Nowogrodzka street (Warsaw): 435

Nowy Świat Street (Warsaw): 386, 388, 389–390; eating, 436

Nussdorf: 940

Nyugati/Western Station (Budapest): 569, 572