INDEX
| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Y |
| Z |
A
Accommodations: See Paradores; Sleeping; and specific destinations
Admiral’s Hall (Sevilla): 713–714
Adolfo Suárez Barajas Airport (Madrid): 516–518
Ainhoa (Ainhoa): 262
Air-conditioning, in hotels: 20, 27, 996
Airports: Barcelona, 37, 152–153; Biarritz, 258; Gibraltar, 900; Granada, 620, 674; Madrid, 516–518; Málaga, 875, 878; Pamplona, 279; St-Jean-de-Luz, 239; San Sebastián, 191; Santiago, 354; Sevilla, 679, 682, 684; Tangier, 930; VAT refunds, 985
Alameda del Tajo Park (Ronda): 824
Al-Andalus Life, Museum of (Córdoba): 772, 785
Albayzín (Granada): 616, 623, 630, 655–660; eating, 670; map, 658–659; safety, 620, 655–656; sleeping, 668
Alcaicería (Granada): 625–626
Alcázar (Segovia): 547–549
Alcázar (Sevilla): 678, 710–719; guided tours, 686–687, 711–712; map, 711; orientation, 683, 710–712; self-guided tour, 712–719
Alcázar (Toledo): 573; Army Museum, 582–585; history of, 584
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Córdoba): 772, 789–790
Algeciras: 914–915
Alhambra (Granada): 631–648; eating, 636–637; grounds, 646–648; guided tours, 622; maps, 634–635, 639; orientation, 623, 634–637; planning tips, 633–634; reservations, 633, 635; self-guided tour, 637–648; sleeping, 668–669; tickets, 632, 634–635; tours, 636; traveling to, 632–633
Alhambra Museum (Granada): 637–638
Alhóndiga Bilbao: 230
Almanac: Morocco, 918; Spain, 959
Almonacid: 613
Almudena Cathedral (Madrid): 431
Altamira Cave: 341–343
Altar de Plata (Sevilla): 703
Ambasmestas: 272
American Embassy (Madrid): 484, 978
American Legation Museum (Tangier): 943–945
Americas, Museum of the (Madrid): 417, 481
Andalucía: at a glance, 808; cuisine, 8, 1006; itineraries, 808; southern, map, 806–807; white hill towns, 17, 805–854. See also Córdoba; Granada; Sevilla
Anglican Church (Tangier): 937
Antigua Chapel (Sevilla): 705
Antigua Seminario Mayor de Comillas: 344
Apartment rentals: 990–991, 994–996; Barcelona, 139
Apes of Gibraltar: 893–894
Apple (Madrid): 421
Apps: 26, 1009; Barcelona, 40; language, 28, 979; maps and navigation tools, 985–986, 1021; messaging, 1009; payment, 26, 981–982; sightseeing, 987; train tickets, 1015, 1017; user reviews, 991
April Fair (Sevilla): 684, 740–741, 1028
Aquariums: Barcelona, 62; Biarritz, 259–260; San Sebastián, 201
Aqueducts, Roman: 67; Segovia, 536, 541
Arab Baths (Granada): 655
Arab Baths (Ronda): 831
Arab Bridge (Ronda): 830–831
Archaeological sites: Altamira Cave, 341–343; Pileta Cave, 831–833. See also Romans, ancient
Architecture: churches, 972; overview, 970–973. See also Modernisme; and specific architects and buildings
Archivo General de Indias (Sevilla): 720–721
Arco del Toro (Salamanca): 386
Arco de Santa María (Burgos): 308
Arcos de la Frontera: 766, 808, 809–820; eating, 819–820; helpful hints, 810–811; maps, 810, 812; nightlife, 817; self-guided walk, 811–817; sleeping, 817–819; tourist information, 809; transportation, 809–810, 820
Arenal Market (Sevilla): 742
Armory (Madrid): 452–453
Army Museum (Toledo): 566, 574, 582–585
Arnéguy: 273
Art (artists): overview, 971; timeline, 966–967. See also specific artists and art museums
Art Nouveau: See Modernisme
Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum (Salamanca): 389, 395–396
Artxanda Funicular (Bilbao): 230
Ascain: 261
Asilah (Morocco): 956
Assassination Attempt Memorial (Madrid): 430–431
Association of San Miguel (Arcos): 815–816
Astorga Cathedral: 332
Astrolabe Tapestry: 593–594
Atlas Mountains (Morocco): 957
Atocha Station (Madrid): 409, 514–515
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 1025
Auritz: 277
Automobile History Museum (Salamanca): 390, 396
AVE: See Train travel
Ave Maria Path (Montserrat): 163–164
Avenida de la Constitución (Sevilla): 678, 710, 721, 749
Averroes: 789
Ávila: 554–561; eating, 560; map, 556–557; sights/activities, 556–560; sleeping, 560
Ávila Cathedral: 558–559
Ávila Walls: 556–558
Avinguda del Portal de l’Angel (Barcelona): 63–64, 66, 125
Azabache: 355
Azkuna Zentroa (Bilbao): 230
B
Baiona: See Bayonne
Balcony of Europe (Nerja): 857, 862–863; beaches, 865–867; eating, 874; sleeping, 870–871
Banks: alerting to travel, 26. See also Money
Baños Árabes (Granada): 655
Baños Árabes (Ronda): 831
Baños del Alcázar Califal (Córdoba): 790
Barajas Airport (Madrid): 516–518
Barcelona: 12, 29–156; at a glance, 48–49; arrival in, 36–37, 152–156; beaches, 49, 122, 124; eating, 139–152; excursion areas, 15, 157–180; helpful hints, 37, 40; itineraries, 30–32; layout of, 32–35; neighborhoods, 32–35; nightlife, 127–131; self-guided walks, 51–76; shopping, 125–127; sights, 76–124; sleeping, 131–139; tourist information, 35–36; tours, 46–47, 50–51; transportation, 36–37, 40–46, 152–156. See also specific neighborhoods
Barcelona Card: 36
Barcelona Cathedral: 48, 70, 80–82
Barcelona City Hall: 74
Barcelona Head (Lichtenstein): 62
Barcelona History Museum: 49, 76, 83–84
Barcelona Maritime Museum: 48, 77, 80
Barcelona waterfront: 35, 61–62, 122–124; eating, 151–152; map, 123
Barceloneta: 35, 122–124; eating, 151–152; map, 123; nightlife, 130
Bar de los Jubilados (Guernica): 220–221
Barri Gòtic (Barcelona): 34, 62–76, 80–84; eating, 145–147; guided tours, 46; map, 64–65; nightlife, 128–129; self-guided walk, 62–76; shopping, 126; sights, 80–84; tapas, 146–147
Barrio Húmedo (León): 319, 327–328
Barrio Romántico (León): 319, 327–328
Barrio San Basilio (Córdoba), eating: 801
Barrio Santa Cruz (Sevilla): 678, 688–698, 724–725; eating, 758–760; Jews of Sevilla, 695; map, 690; self-guided walk, 688–698; sleeping, 750–754
Barri Xines (Barcelona): 60
Basílica de la Macarena (Sevilla): 683, 733–735
Basilicas: See Churches and cathedrals
Basques: overview, 186–187
Basque Country: 15, 181–263; at a glance, 182; cuisine, 8, 184–185, 188, 1006; French, 237–263; itineraries, 182–183; language, 181–182, 186, 964; map, 184–185; Spanish, 188–237; transportation, 183. See also specific destinations
Basque Country Museum (Guernica): 218–219
Basque Culture, Museum of (Bayonne): 254
Basque Museum (Bilbao): 231
Baths: Córdoba, 790; Granada, 630, 655; Ronda, 831
Bay of Biscay: 214–216
Bayonne: 182, 251–258; map, 253
Bayonne Ramparts: 256
Bazar Tindouf (Tangier): 931
Beaches: Asilah, 956; Barcelona, 49, 122, 124; Biarritz, 258, 260; Cadaqués, 173; Comillas, 343; Fuengirola, 879; Guéthary, 251; Lequeitio, 215–216; Marbella, 880; Nerja, 865–867; St-Jean-de-Luz, 243; San Pedro de Alcántara, 880; San Sebastián, 202, 203; Sitges, 180; Tangier, 947–948; Tarifa, 907–908; Torremolinos, 879; Valdevaqueros, 908; Vejer de la Frontera, 855
Beer: overview, 1007
Beit Yahuda Assayag Synagogue and Museum (Tangier): 942
Belén Artístico (Arcos): 815
Bernabéu Stadium (Madrid): 436, 484, 487
Betlem Church (Barcelona): 56
Beverages: 1005–1008. See also Wine and vineyards
Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne Airport: 239, 258
Biarritz Fishermen’s Wharf: 260
Bidart: 251
Biking (bike rentals): Barcelona, 40, 50, 124; Bilbao, 227; Cadaqués, 173; Salamanca, 382; San Sebastián, 193; Sevilla, 685; Tarifa, 902–903
Bilbao: 182, 221–237; eating, 234–237; helpful hints, 226; itineraries, 221; maps, 224–225, 233; sights, 227–232; sleeping, 232–234; tourist information, 222; tours, 226–227; transportation, 222–223, 237
Bilbao, Guggenheim: 227–229; eating near, 235; sleeping near, 232
Bilbao Fine Arts Museum: 230
Bilbo: See Bilbao
Bisagra Gate (Toledo): 603; sleeping near, 608
Bishop’s Prison (St-Jean-de-Luz): 271
Black Virgin of Montserrat: 162–163
Block of Discord (Barcelona): 96–97, 101–102
Blossom Lane (Córdoba): 783
Boabdil: 452, 583, 638, 642, 649, 651
Boat travel and cruises: Barcelona, 62, 80, 156; Bilbao, 226; ferries to Morocco, 913–915, 921–922, 928–929; map, 1014–1015; to Morocco, 913–914; St-Jean-de-Luz, 241; San Sebastián, 200
Bocadillos de calamares: 424, 427, 510
Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla (Jerez): 850–851
Bodegas Tradición (Jerez): 850
Books, recommended: 1029–1031; for children, 1033–1034. See also Guidebooks
Boquería Market (Barcelona): 48, 57–58, 145
Bosch, Hieronymus: 453, 454, 458–459
Boulevard Pasteur (Tangier): 938–939
Bourbon Palace (El Escorial): 531
Breakfast: overview, 998–999
Bretxa Market (San Sebastián): 197, 200, 212
“Bridge of the Queen” (Puente La Reina): 296–297
Budget tips: 23–24. See also Money-saving tips
Bullfighting (bullfights): 973–976; history of, 975; Madrid, 417, 486–487; Pamplona, 282, 284–285, 288; Ronda, 824–826; Sevilla, 683, 739–740; Tarifa, 906
Bullfighting museums: Córdoba, 772, 789; Madrid, 487; Ronda, 826; Sevilla, 683, 740
Bulls, Running of the (Pamplona): See Running of the Bulls
Burgos: 267, 301–315; eating, 314–315; helpful hints, 303; map, 302; sights, 303–311; sleeping, 311–314; tourist information, 303; transportation, 303, 315
Burgos Cathedral: 303–307
Burgos Museum: 309
Burguete: 277
Burial of the Count of Orgaz (El Greco): 566, 578, 596–597
Burriana Beach (Nerja): 867, 875
Buses (bus travel): 1017; budgeting, 23; map, 1014–1015. See also specific destinations
Business hours: 979
C
Caballerizas Reales de Córdoba: 794–795
Cable cars: See Funiculars
Cabs: 1017–1018; tipping, 984. See also specific destinations
Cadaqués: 171–178; eating, 178; maps, 172, 174; self-guided walk, 173–175; sleeping, 178
Cadaqués Casino: 174
Cadaqués City Hall: 175
Café Baba (Tangier): 948–949
Café Colon (Tangier): 955
Café Granja Viader (Barcelona): 56, 141, 144
Café Iruña (Pamplona): 288, 294
CaixaForum (Barcelona): 49, 121–122
CaixaForum (Madrid): 479–480
Calahonda Beach (Nerja): 866
Calahorra Tower (Córdoba): 785
Calatrava, Santiago: 118, 223, 229, 298–299, 485, 973
Caliphate Alcázar, Baths of the (Córdoba): 790
Calle Agua (Sevilla): 693–694
Calle Almirante Ferrándiz (Nerja): 872–873
Calle Ancha (León): 318–319
Calle Antillano Campos (Sevilla): 737
Calle Cava Baja (Madrid): 506, 507–508
Calle Correo (Bilbao): 235
Calle Cuna (Sevilla): 746
Calle de Cervantes (Segovia): 541, 543
Calle de Comercio (Toledo): 574–575
Calle de Gloria (Sevilla): 698
Calle de Infanta Isabel (Segovia): 553
Calle de Jesús (Madrid): 506–507
Calle de la Estafeta (Pamplona): 283, 293
Calle de la Montera (Madrid): 421, 439
Calle del Arenal (Bilbao): 236
Calle del Arenal (Madrid): 433–436, 489
Calle del Codo (Madrid): 429
Calle del Perro (Bilbao): 235–236
Calle de Pelayo (Madrid): 480–481
Calle de Postas (Madrid): 423–424
Calle Ermita (Granada): 625
Calle Hernando de Carabeo (Nerja): 864
Calle Herrera Oria (Nerja): 873–874
Calleja de las Flores (Córdoba): 783
Calle Jardines (Bilbao): 236
Calle Mayor (Madrid): 423, 430
Calle Mayor (Puente La Reina): 296
Calle Nueva (Ronda): 837
Calle Pintada (Nerja): 864–865
Calle Pureza (Sevilla): 737–738
Calle Real (Gibraltar): 900
Calle Reinoso (Sevilla): 697
Calle Reyes Católicos (Granada): 625, 628
Calle Rúa Mayor (Salamanca): 386–387, 402
Calle Sagasta (Sevilla): 746
Calle San Jacinto (Sevilla): 737, 763–764
Calle San Lorenzo (Burgos): 314
Calle San Nicolás (Pamplona): 294
Calle San Pablo (Jerez): 853
Calle Santa María (Bilbao): 236
Calle Santa Teresa (Sevilla): 696
Calle Santa Tomé (Toledo): 577–578
Calle Sierpes (Sevilla): 743, 746
Calle Sombrerería (Burgos): 314–315
Calle Tetuán (Sevilla): 743
Calle Van Dyck (Salamanca): 402–403
Camino de Santiago: 15, 17, 264–337; at a glance, 266–267; hiking, 204, 268–269, 272, 312–313; history of, 274–275; itineraries, 266–268; maps, 268–269, 276–277, 330–331; symbols, 285; tourist information, 268; tours, 268–269; transportation, 265–266. See also Santiago de Compostela; and specific destinations
Camino el Salvador (Toledo): 577
Camper (Sevilla), 743
Camper (Madrid): 489
Campillos: 833
Canaletes Fountain (Barcelona): 54
Canoeing: 846
Cantarriján Beach (Nerja): 867
Capilla del Carmen (Sevilla): 736
Capilla de los Marineros (Sevilla): 738
Capilla Real: See Royal Chapel
Carabeillo Beach (Nerja): 866
Carabeo Beach (Nerja): 866
Cares Gorge: 345, 346, 348–349
Car insurance: 1019–1020
Car leasing: 1020–1021
Carmens, in Granada: 670–671
Car navigation: 1021–1022
Carranza Collection (Toledo): 582
Carre Ample (Barcelona): 130
Carrera Espinel (Ronda): 834
Carrer Ample (Barcelona): 126
Carrer Curós (Cadaqués): 175
Carrer de Blai (Barcelona): 94, 149
Carrer de Bonsuccés (Barcelona): 126
Carrer de la Mercè (Barcelona): 130, 146–147
Carrer de la Palla (Barcelona): 69, 126
Carrer de la Portaferrissa (Barcelona): 56, 126
Carrer del Bisbe (Barcelona): 70, 71, 73
Carrer del Bisbe Bridge (Barcelona): 73
Carrer de l’Esparteria (Barcelona): 126
Carrer del Paradís (Barcelona): 74, 75
Carrer del Rec (Barcelona): 126
Carrer dels Banys Nous (Barcelona): 126
Carrer dels Escudellers (Barcelona): 129–130
Carrer de Petritxol (Barcelona): 126
Carrer de Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona): 72
Carrión de los Condes: 316
Carthusian Monastery (near Granada): 663–664
Car travel (driving): 25, 1022–1023; mileage and time, 1020–1021; whirlwind three-week tour, 20–21. See also specific destinations
Cartuja de Miraflores (Burgos): 310–311
Casa Andalusí (Córdoba): 787–788
Casa Batlló (Barcelona): 49, 96–97, 128
Casa Beethoven (Barcelona): 57
Casa de la Historia (San Sebastián): 201
Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona): 71
Casa del Arte Flamenco (Granada): 663
Casa de las Conchas (Salamanca): 387
Casa de los Picos (Segovia): 543
Casa de Murillo (Sevilla): 696
Casa de Pilatos (Sevilla): 728
Casa de Sefarad (Córdoba): 772, 785, 787
Casa Lleó Morera (Barcelona): 49, 96
Casa Milà (Barcelona): 48, 97, 101–102
Casa Museu Amatller (Barcelona): 97
Casa Salvador Dalí (Port Lligat): 171, 176–177
Casas rurales: overview, 993–994
Casemates Square (Gibraltar): 884, 889–890, 896, 899
Castell: 83
Castile: 301. See also Burgos
Castilla y León: 301
Castillo de Guzmán el Bueno (Tarifa): 906
Castillo de San Jorge (Sevilla): 736–737
Castle of Montjuïc (Barcelona): 116–117
Castrojeriz: 316
Catalan Art Museum (Barcelona): 48, 118–120, 130
Catalan College of Architects (Barcelona): 67–68
Catalan language: 44, 141, 964; essential phrases, 45
Catalan Music, Palace of (Barcelona): 48, 92–93, 127–128
Catalunya: cuisine, 7, 139–141, 1006; overview, 44–45, 68–69. See also Barcelona
Catedral de Barcelona: 48, 70, 80–82
Catedral de Granada: 623, 627, 652–655
Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (Madrid): 431
Catedral de Segovia: 545–547
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Cats, in Tangier: 932
Cave Museum of Sacromonte (Granada): 623, 661–662
Caving, in Grazalema: 846
Cell phones: See Smartphones
Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (Madrid): 416, 473–478
Centro de Interpretación del León Romano: 319
Ceramic Museum (Sevilla): 737
Cervantes, Miguel de: 365–366, 383, 453–454, 573, 577, 612–613, 961, 1031
Chamartín Station (Madrid): 409, 513
Chapelle de Notre-Dame d’Aranazau (Ainhoa): 262
Chapel of Saint Agatha (Barcelona): 75, 84
Chapel of Saint Anthony (Sevilla): 703
Chapel of San Fermín (Pamplona): 291
Chapel of the Mariners (Sevilla): 738
Chapel of the New Kings (Toledo): 592
Chapter House (Toledo): 590
Chapter Rooms (El Escorial): 528
Charles III: 282, 288, 289, 420, 435, 479; biographical sketch, 445; Royal Palace (Madrid), 441–453
Charles V: 66, 388, 434, 452, 465, 527, 529, 530, 542, 562, 572, 581, 584, 603, 650–651, 713, 715, 717, 887, 961, 962–963; Alhambra (Granada), 637–638; Wall (Gibraltar), 887, 889
Chefchaouen (Morocco): 956
Chiringuitos: 124, 130, 152, 180, 865
Chocolate: 249, 255–256, 295, 332, 672; Madrid, 435–436, 494. See also Churros con chocolate
Chocolate Museum (Astorga): 332
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 972; Almudena Cathedral (Madrid), 431; Astorga Cathedral, 332; Ávila Cathedral, 558–559; Barcelona Cathedral, 48, 70, 80–82; Betlem Church (Barcelona), 56; Burgos Cathedral, 303–307; Church of the Crucifixion (Puente La Reina), 296; Church of the Savior (Sevilla), 726–727; Granada Cathedral, 623, 627, 652–655; León Cathedral, 321–324; Lugo Cathedral, 339; Montserrat Basilica, 162–164; Pamplona Cathedral, 289–290; St. Andrew’s Anglican Church (Tangier), 937; Ste. Marie Cathédrale (Bayonne), 254–255; St. Ginès (Madrid), 435–436; St. Jean-Baptiste (St-Jean-de-Luz), 244–247; St. Matthew (Tarifa), 903; Salamanca Cathedral, 389, 392–393; San Antonio of Padua Church (Frigiliana), 877–878; San Esteban Church (Salamanca), 393–394; San Gregorio Church (Granada), 659; San Lorenzo Church (Pamplona), 291; San Nicolás de Bari (Burgos), 308; San Pedro (Arcos), 816; San Salvador Church (Nerja), 864; San Saturnino Church (Pamplona), 290–291; Santa Ana Church (Granada), 629; Santa Ana Church (Sevilla), 738; Santa Anna Church (Barcelona), 66; Santa María Church (Arcos), 813–814; Santa Maria Church (Cadaqués), 175; Santa Maria del Mar Church (Barcelona), 49, 93–94; Santa Maria del Pi (Barcelona), 58; Santa María la Mayor (Ronda), 827–828; Santa María la Real (O Cebreiro), 336–337; Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla (Sitges), 179; Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona), 72; Santiago Cathedral (Bilbao), 231; Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, 356–366; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 566, 578; San Vicente Basilica (Ávila), 559; Segovia Cathedral, 545–547; Sevilla Cathedral, 683, 699–710; Toledo Cathedral, 566, 575, 576, 586–594; Vera Cruz Church (near Segovia), 549
Church of the Crucifixion (Puente La Reina): 296
Church of the Savior (Sevilla): 683, 726–727
Churriguera brothers: 382–383, 394
Churros con chocolate: 126, 212, 295, 435–436, 494, 512–513, 672, 913, 999
Cinema Rif (Tangier): 937, 949
Circulo de Bellas Artes (Madrid): 437
Circulo del Arte (Toledo): 604
Citadel Park (Barcelona): 124
City Under Siege (Gibraltar): 895
Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 1025
Clerecía Towers (Salamanca): 391
Clothing Museum (Madrid): 482
Clothing sizes: 1034–1035
Colegio de Infantes (Toledo): 593–594
Columbus, Christopher: 75, 76, 186–187, 387, 448, 484, 588, 628, 642, 652, 713–714, 720–721, 722, 962; biographical sketch, 719; Monument (Barcelona), 61; tomb (Sevilla), 706
Comillas: 343–345
Concurso Popular de Patios Cordobeses (Córdoba): 791
Consuegra: 613
Convent Guard Room (Gibraltar): 889
Convento de las Dueñas (Salamanca): 395
Convento de San Bernardo (Granada): 631
Convent of St. Teresa (Ávila): 559–560
Cooking classes: Barcelona, 50–51; San Sebastián, 195; Sevilla, 759; Tangier, 931–932
Córdoba: 17, 767–804; at a glance, 772; arrival in, 769, 772–773; eating, 797–803; entertainment, 794–795; helpful hints, 773; history of, 780–781; itineraries, 767–768; maps, 768, 770–771, 775, 798–799; orientation, 768–769; sights, 774–795; sleeping, 795–797; tourist information, 769; tours, 773–774; transportation, 769, 772–773, 803–804
Córdoba Bell Tower: 776–777
Córdoba City Walls: 788–789
Córdoba Synagogue: 787
Corpus Christi: 575, 593, 739, 1028
Corpus Christi Church and Convent (Madrid): 428–429
Corpus Christi Convent (Segovia): 544–545
Corral del Carbón (Granada): 624–625
Cortés, Hernán: 329, 383, 583, 961
Costa del Sol: 18, 856–915; history, 859; itineraries, 857; map, 857. See also specific destinations
Costs of trip: 23
Court of the Orange Trees (Córdoba): 776
Court of the Orange Trees (Sevilla): 702
Courtyard of the Dolls (Sevilla): 716
Courtyard of the Hunt (Sevilla): 712–713
Courtyard of the Lions (Granada): 642
Courtyard of the Maidens (Sevilla): 715
Courtyard of the Myrtles (Granada): 640–641
Covid-19: 697, 784; commemoration plaque, in Madrid, 422; vaccination requirements, 977–978
Credit cards: 26, 980–984, 1019–1020
Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises
Cruz de Ferro (Mount Irago): 333
Cuatro Postes (Ávila): 558
Cuesta de Gomérez (Granada): 667
Cuesta del Rey Chico (Granada): 648
Cueva de Altamira: 341–343
Cueva de la Pileta: 831–833
Cueva de Nerja: 867–868
Cuisine: 7–8, 997–1005; Andalucía, 7–8, 8, 1006; Ávila, 560; Basque Country, 8, 184–185, 188, 1006; Catalan, 7, 139–141, 1006; Córdoba, 797; Galician, 8, 375, 1006; Granada, 669–670; Madrid, 500–501; Moroccan, 952; Ronda, 837; Salamanca, 400; Segovia, 552; Sevilla, 755, 758; Toledo, 609. See also Markets; Tapas; and specific destinations
Currency and exchange: 980–983; Gibraltar, 886; Morocco, 918, 930–931
Customs regulations: 985
D
Dalí, Salvador: 125, 165, 170, 171, 173, 477–478, 1032; biographical sketch, 168, 971; House and Garden (Port Lligat), 171, 176–177; Theater-Museum (Figueres), 167–170; tours, 47
Damascene, shopping for: 578
Dance: See Flamenco; Sardana dances; Zambra dance
Dar Niaba Art Gallery (Tangier): 941
Deba: 214–215
Del Salón Beach (Nerja): 866, 874
Discounts: 979. See also Money-saving tips
Domènech i Montaner, Lluís: 48, 71, 92–93, 344
Donibane Lohizune: See St-Jean-de-Luz
Donostia: See San Sebastián
Don Quixote (Cervantes): 365–366, 453, 573, 577, 612–613, 961, 1031
Drinking water: 1007–1008
Drinks: 1005–1008. See also Wine and vineyards
Driving: See Car travel
E
Eagle Aqueduct (Nerja): 868–869
Eating: 7–8, 997–1005; restaurant pricing, 998; Spanish restaurant phrases, 1040; Spanish schedule, 8, 997; tipping, 984, 1001. See also Cuisine; Markets; Tapas; and specific destinations
Economy of Spain: 959, 968–969
Eixample (Barcelona): 35, 95–109; eating, 149–151; maps, 98–99, 136–137; nightlife, 130–131; shopping, 127; sleeping, 137–138; tapas, 150–151
El Alma de Córdoba: 795
El Born (Barcelona): 34, 70, 84–94; eating, 147–148; nightlife, 129; shopping, 126; sights, 84–94
El Busto: 300
El Capricho (Comillas): 343–344
El Cid: 301, 305, 308–309, 961, 1032
Elciego: 299
El Cielo (Nerja): 868
El Corte Inglés (Barcelona), 126, 145; (Granada), 629; (Madrid), 411, 421, 488, 511; (Sevilla), 742
Electricity: 979; Gibraltar, 886–887
El Escorial: 521–532, 970–971; maps, 522, 525
El Escorial Gardens: 532
El Estrecho Natural Park: 906
El Greco: 196, 230, 453, 472, 528, 559, 562, 572, 592, 729, 850; biographical sketch, 597, 971; Museum (Toledo), 566, 579, 598; Prado Museum (Madrid), 465–466; Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo), 566, 580–582; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 566, 578, 596–597
El País Vasco: See Spanish Basque Country
El Playazo (Nerja): 866
El Poble-Sec (Barcelona): 94
El Postigo Market (Sevilla): 742
El Prat de Llobregat Airport (Barcelona): 37, 152–153
El Rastro Flea Market (Madrid): 417, 488–489
El Salvador Church (Toledo): 577
Els Quatre Gats (Barcelona): 66–67, 90, 146
El Torno Pastelería de Conventos (Sevilla): 710
Embassies: 978–979; Madrid, 484, 978; Morocco, 918
Emergencies: 978; Morocco, 918
Entertainment: budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations
Environmental footprint (going green): 979–980
Equestrian shows: 794–795, 826, 848–850
Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 417, 482
Escalera del Agua (Granada): 648
Espacio Fundación Telefónica (Madrid): 439
Espadrilles, shopping for: 125
Espelette (Ezpeleta): 262–263
Estadi Olímpic (Barcelona): 117–118
Ethnographic Complex of O Cebreiro: 335–336
ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System): 978
Euro currency: 983
Europa Point (Gibraltar): 886
Euskal Herria: See Basque Country
Euskal Herria Museoa (Guernica): 218–219
Euskal Museoa (Bilbao): 231
Events: See Festivals
Exchange rate: 983
F
Federico García Lorca Granada-Jaén Airport: 620, 674
Ferdinand: 358, 388, 404, 430, 434, 444, 448, 542, 548, 578, 579, 581, 588, 599, 600–602, 627, 628, 642, 654, 695, 712, 713, 720, 812; Royal Chapel (Granada), 623, 627, 649–652
Ferdinand III: 695, 704, 709, 725, 778–781
Feria de Abril (Sevilla): 684, 740–741, 1028
Ferries to Morocco: 913–915, 921–922, 928–929
Fès (Morocco): 956–957
Festival of Granada: 620, 637, 1028
Festivals: 1027–1029. See also specific festivals
Fiesta de San Fermín (Pamplona): See Running of the Bulls
Films, recommended: 1031–1033
Fishermen’s Wharf (Biarritz): 260
Flamenco: Arcos, 817; Barcelona, 128; Córdoba, 795; Granada, 662–663; Madrid, 417, 493; Nerja, 869; Ronda, 833–834; Sevilla, 683, 729, 741, 747–749
Flamenco Dance Museum (Sevilla): 683, 729, 748
FNAC (Barcelona), 126, 127; (Madrid), 411, 487
Foncebadón: 333
Font Màgica (Barcelona): 49, 121
Food: See Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Jamón; Markets; Marzipan; Mazapán; Nun goodies; Percebes; Piments d’Espelette; Pimientos de Padrón; Pintxos; Roast suckling pig; Serrano ham; Tapas; Tarta de Santiago; and specific destinations
Food tours: Barcelona, 50–51; Granada, 622–623; Madrid, 501; San Sebastián, 195; Sevilla, 759; Tangier, 931–932
Fountain of Canaletes (Barcelona): 54
France: hotel tips, 240; overview, 240; restaurant tips, 240; survival phrases, 241
Franco, Francisco: 44, 117, 181, 186, 188, 216, 218, 239, 275, 354, 383, 421, 427, 432, 435, 444, 475–477, 532, 534–535, 573, 584, 585, 650, 721, 859, 889, 961, 965
Frederic Marès Museum (Barcelona): 49, 82–83
French Basque Country: 237–263; cuisine, 185, 188; map, 184–185
Frigiliana: 876–878
Frigiliana Archaeological Museum: 876
Frómista: 316
Fuengirola: 879
Fuente Dé Cable Car: 347–348
Fulton, John: 751
Fundació Joan Miró (Barcelona): 49, 117
Funiculars (cable cars): Barcelona, 113, 116; Bilbao, 230; Fuente Dé, 347–348; Gibraltar, 891–892; Montserrat, 159–160, 164; San Sebastián, 203
Futbol: See Soccer
G
Galería de Arte San Pedro (Arcos): 816–817
Galicia: 264–265, 329–334, 350–378; cuisine, 7–8, 375, 1006; language, 354. See also Santiago de Compostela
Galician People, Museum of the (Santiago): 370
Game of Thrones (TV series): 739
Garden of Earthly Delights (Bosch): 458–459
Gares: 296–297
Garganta del Cares: 345, 346, 348–349
Gasparini Room (Madrid): 446–447
Gaudí, Antonio: 164–165, 320, 343–344; in Barcelona, 96–113, 971, 973; Exhibition Center, 49; guided tours, 46; Museum, 109; Palau Güell, 48, 60, 77; Park Güell, 48, 109–113; Sagrada Família, 48, 102–109; Palace (Astorga), 330–332
Gay community: in Madrid, 480–481; in Sitges, 179
Gegants: 71
Gelmírez Palace (Santiago): 366
General Archive of the Civil War (Salamanca): 389
General Archives of the Indies (Sevilla): 720–721
Generalife Palace and Gardens (Granada): 632, 636, 646–648
Gernika: See Guernica
Gernika Assembly House (Guernica): 219–220
Gernika Oak Tree (Guernica): 219–220
Gernika Peace Museum (Guernica): 217
Getaria: 215
Gibraltar: 880–900; arrival in, 884–886; eating, 898–900; helpful hints, 886–887; itineraries, 883; maps, 881, 882, 888; nightlife, 896; self-guided walk, 887–890; sights, 890–896; sleeping, 897–898; vs. Spain, 885; tourist information, 883–884; transportation, 884–886, 900
Gibraltar Moorish Castle: 896
Gibraltar Museum: 890
Gimeno (Barcelona): 57
Giralda Bell Tower (Sevilla): 683, 691, 702–703, 709
Girona-Costa Brava Airport: 37, 153
Golden Age: overview, 962–963
Gold Tower (Sevilla): 724
Golondrinas, in Barcelona: 62, 80
Gothic Quarter (Barcelona): See Barri Gòtic
Government of Spain: 959, 968–969
Governor’s Residence (Gibraltar): 889
Goya, Francisco de: 120, 230, 282, 421–422, 446, 453, 483, 531, 584, 592, 708, 729, 850, 965, 971; Prado Museum (Madrid), 467–470; tomb (Madrid), 417, 482
Gràcia (Barcelona): 35
Granada: 12, 614–675; at a glance, 623; arrival in, 617, 620; eating, 669–674; helpful hints, 620–621; itineraries, 615–616; maps, 615, 618–619, 624, 658–659, 666; nightlife, 662–663, 670–671; self-guided walk, 623–631; sights, 631–664; sleeping, 665–669; tourist information, 617; tours, 622–623; transportation, 617, 620, 621, 674–675
Granada Card: 617
Granada Cathedral: 623, 627, 652–655
Granada Festival: 620, 637, 1028
Granada Fine Arts Museum: 638
Granada Great Mosque: 623, 656–657
Granada San Francisco Parador: 646–647, 669
Gran Café de Paris (Tangier): 938–939, 955
Grand Hall of the Ambassadors (Granada): 641–642
Grand Socco (Tangier): 933, 935–937
Gran Teatre del Liceu (Barcelona): 59, 128
Gran Vía (Madrid): 408, 436–440; map, 438–439; sleeping near, 495, 498
Gran Vía de Colón (Granada): 616, 627–628
Grazalema: 808, 844–846; eating, 846; map, 845; sleeping, 846
Great Mosque of Granada: 623, 656–657
Great Siege Tunnels (Gibraltar): 895
Gros (San Sebastián): 190, 203–204; eating, 210–211, 212; nightlife, 210–211; sleeping, 205–206
Guadalquivir River: 678, 736, 769, 784
Güell Park (Barcelona): 48, 109–113; map, 110–111
Guernica (Picasso): 216, 217, 218, 475–477
Guernica (town; Gernika): 216–221
Guéthary: 251
Guggenheim Bilbao: 227–229; eating near, 235; sleeping near, 232
Guidebooks: Alhambra, 636; Morocco, 918; Rick Steves, 979, 1025; Sevilla, 685; Toledo, 567, 570
Guitar, Spanish: See Spanish guitars
Guzmán el Bueno Castle (Tarifa): 906
Gypsies (Roma), of Granada: 660–663
H
Habsburgs Palace (El Escorial): 529–531
Hall of Tapestries (Sevilla): 717–718
Hall of the Abencerrajes (Granada): 643–644
Hall of the Ambassadors (Sevilla): 715–716
Hall of the Kings (Granada): 644
Hall of Two Sisters (Granada): 644
Hammam al Andalus (Granada): 655
Hammam El Bañuelo (Granada): 630
Haro: 298–299
Hemingway, Ernest: 277, 535, 976, 1031; in Madrid, 438, 505; in Pamplona, 278, 284, 288, 289, 292, 294
Hen and Stag parties: 621
Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 417, 482
Hiking (walking): Ainhoa, 262; Ávila, 556–558; Bayonne, 256; Cadaqués, 177; Camino de Santiago, 204, 268–269, 272, 312–313; Cares Gorge, 348–349; Frigiliana, 876–878; Gibraltar, 891–892; Granada, 648, 655, 657–660; Grazalema, 846; Montserrat, 164; Nerja, 864–865, 868–869; Picos de Europa, 348; Ronda, 829–831; San Sebastián, 204
Historic inns: See Paradores
History: 958–968; timeline, 966–967
Holidays: 1027–1029. See also Festivals
Holy Door (Santiago): 361
Holy Week: 903, 988, 1028; Sevilla, 684, 688–689, 733–734, 1028
Hondarribia: 191
Horses, of Jerez: 848–850
Horse shows: 794–795, 826, 848–850
Hospital de la Caridad (Sevilla): 683, 721–723
Hospital de los Venerables (Sevilla): 698, 724–725
Hospital of the Catholic Monarchs (Santiago): 358
Hostales: overview, 993
Hostels: overview, 996. See also specific destinations
Hotels: glossary of terms, 992; overview, 990–993; rates and deals, 989–990; reservations, 24, 994–995. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
House of Louis XIV (St-Jean-de-Luz): 242
House of Siglo XV (Segovia): 544
House of the Moorish King (Ronda): 830
Huelgas Monastery (Burgos): 310
Hug St. James (Santiago): 361
Human Evolution, Museum of (Burgos): 309–310
Hustlers, in Morocco: 930
I
Ibn Battuta Museum/Memorial (Tangier): 946
Iglesia del Salvador (Sevilla): 683, 726–727
Immaculate Conception, doctrine of: 705
Internet security: 1009
Irache Monastery: 266, 297, 300
Iron Cross (Mount Irago): 333
Iruña: See Pamplona
Irving, Washington: 625, 648, 694, 961, 1031; Room (Granada), 644–645
Isabel: 358, 388, 404, 430, 434, 444, 448, 529, 542, 548, 578, 579, 581, 588, 599, 600–602, 627, 628, 642, 654, 695, 712, 713, 720, 812, 961; Royal Chapel (Granada), 623, 627, 649–652
Isla de las Palomas (Tarifa): 907
Isla de Santa Clara (San Sebastián): 200
Islamic art: overview, 643
Islamic Córdoba: overview, 780–781
Itálica: 738–739
Itineraries: Andalucía, 808; Barcelona, 30–32; Basque Country, 182–183; Camino de Santiago, 266–268; Córdoba, 767–768; Costa del Sol, 857; designing your own, 19–22; Gibraltar, 883; Granada, 615–616; Madrid, 405, 408; Morocco, 920–921, 927; Salamanca, 379–380; Santiago, 351; Sevilla, 678; Toledo, 562–563; whirlwind three-week tour, 20–21
J
James, Saint: 74, 264, 274–275, 285, 307, 313, 324, 355, 358–361, 365; biographical sketch, 362; tomb, 361. See also Camino de Santiago
Jamón (ham): 7, 58, 140, 424, 1000
Jardin del Convento (Madrid): 430
Jardines de Cuenca (Ronda): 831
Jerez de la Frontera: 808, 847–854; eating, 853; map, 849; sights/activities, 848–852; transportation, 847–848, 853–854
Jewish museums: Córdoba, 772, 785, 787; Toledo, 566, 579, 599–600
Jewish Quarter (Barcelona): 73
Jewish Quarter (Cadaqués): 175
Jewish Quarter (Córdoba): 785–789; eating, 801–802; map, 770–771; scavenger hunt, 786
Jewish Quarter (Segovia): 544–545
Jewish Quarter (Sevilla): See Barrio Santa Cruz
Jewish Quarter (Toledo): 578–580, 599–600, 602; sleeping, 605, 608
Jews of Sevilla: 695
Joaquín Peinado Museum (Ronda): 829
John Mackintosh Hall (Gibraltar): 887, 889
Josep Tarradellas Barcelona-El Prat Airport (Barcelona): 37, 152–153
Juan Carlos I: 383, 435, 444, 445, 447, 449, 450, 471, 529, 965
Juan de Austria (Barcelona): 80
K
Kasbah (Tangier): 927, 945–947; eating, 952; sleeping, 949–951
Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures (Tangier): 946–947
King Ferdinand: See Ferdinand
King Pedro I’s Palace (Sevilla): 714–718
King’s Bastion Leisure Centre (Gibraltar): 887, 896
Kubo-Kutxa Gallery (San Sebastián): 203–204
Kursaal Conference Center (San Sebastián): 203–204
L
La Boquería Market (Barcelona): 48, 57–58, 145
La Cartuja (near Granada): 663–664
La Clerecía Church (Salamanca): 387
La Concha Beach and Promenade (San Sebastián): 190, 202
La Granja de San Ildefonso Palace (near Segovia): 549–550
Laguardia: 298–299
La Línea (Gibraltar): 897–898, 900
La Macarena (Sevilla): 683, 733–735
La Mallorquina (Madrid): 422–423, 504, 510
La Mancha: 612
La Mariblanca (Madrid): 436
La Moreneta (Montserrat): 162–163
Language: 6, 9, 28, 964; Arabic, 918, 925; Basque, 181–182, 186, 964; beer terms, 1007; beverage terms, 1008; breakfast terms, 999; Catalan, 45, 141, 964; dessert terms, 1005; French, 241; Galego, 354, 964; hotel terms, 992; online translation tips, 979; restaurant phrases, 1040; survival phrases, 1039; tapas terms, 1002–1003
Language barrier: 1008
La Pedrera (Barcelona): 48, 97, 101–102, 128
La Perla Spa (San Sebastián): 202
La Rhune (Larrun): 261
La Ribera (Barcelona): See El Born
La Ribera Market (Bilbao): 232
Las Arenas (Barcelona): 49, 122
Las Huelgas Monastery (Burgos): 310
Las Meninas (Velázquez): 91, 446, 463
L’Atelier du Chocolat (Bayonne): 255–256
La Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 425, 427
Laundry: See specific destinations
Lavapiés (Madrid): 485–486
Lekeitio: 215–216
León: 267, 301, 316–328; eating, 327–328; map, 317; self-guided walk, 318–321; sights, 318–326; sleeping, 326–327; tourist information, 316; transportation, 318, 328
León Cathedral: 321–324
León City Hall: 318
Le Pays Basque: See French Basque Country
Lequeitio (Lekeitio): 215–216
Liceu Opera House (Barcelona): 59, 128
Lichtenstein, Roy: 62
Lizarra: 297
Lonja Palace (Sevilla): 720–721
Los Arcos: 300
Lugo Cathedral: 339
M
Macarena, Basílica de la (Sevilla): 683, 733–735
Madinat Al-Zahra: 793–794
Madrid: 12, 404–518; at a glance, 416–417; arrival in, 409, 513–518; eating, 500–513; excursion areas, 17, 519–561; experiences, 483–487; helpful hints, 409, 411; itineraries, 405, 408; nightlife, 492–494; orientation, 408; self-guided walks, 420–440; shopping, 487–492; sights, 441–483; sleeping, 495–500; tapas, 505–509; tourist information, 408–409; tours, 418–419; transportation, 409, 414–418, 513–518
Madrid History Museum: 417, 483
Madrid Tower: 432
Madrid Town Hall: 429–430
Magic Fountains (Barcelona): 49, 121
Maids of Honor, The (Velázquez): 91, 446, 463
Mail: 1011. See also specific destinations
Maimonides: 788–789
Maison Adam (St-Jean-de-Luz): 242–243
Málaga: 878–879
Mantillas: 746
Maps: See Map Index
Marbella: 880
Marès (Frederic) Museum (Barcelona): 49, 82–83
Marine Museum (Biarritz): 259–260
Maritime Museum (Barcelona): 48, 77, 80
Markets: Ávila, 560; Barcelona, 48, 57–58, 70, 93, 94, 112, 125–126, 145; Bayonne, 260; Bilbao, 232; Chefchaouen, 956; Gibraltar, 890; Granada, 660, 673; Jerez, 853; León, 319; Madrid, 425, 428, 488–489, 509, 510; Marrakech, 957; Pamplona, 283; Rabat, 956; St-Jean-de-Luz, 239–240; St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, 271; Salamanca, 386, 401; San Sebastián, 197, 200, 212; Santiago, 368–369; Segovia, 540, 553; Sevilla, 736, 742; Tangier, 933, 935, 939–941; bargaining, 940; Tarifa, 913; Toledo, 611
Markina: 214–215
Marks & Spencer (Gibraltar): 889, 899
Maro: 869
Marqués de Riscal (Elciego): 299
Marrakech (Morocco): 957
Marshan Park (Tangier): 948
Martorell i Montells, Joan: 344
Matisse, Henri: 90, 171, 926, 945, 951, 955
Medical help: 978
Medina (Tangier): 927, 939–945; eating, 952–953; guided tours, 932–933; map, 934; nightlife, 948; sleeping, 949–951
Medina Sidonia: 854
Mediterranean Steps (Gibraltar): 894
Mendoubia Gardens (Tangier): 935–936, 938
Mercado de la Bretxa (San Sebastián): 197, 200, 212
Mercado de San Miguel (Madrid): 428, 510
Mercados: See Markets
Mercury Pond (Sevilla): 718
Metric system: 1034–1035
Metro: Barcelona, 40–44; Madrid, 414; map, 415; Sevilla, 685–686
Mezquita (Córdoba): 767, 769, 772, 774–783; eating, 797–801; entertainment, 794–795; map, 775; self-guided tour, 776–783; sleeping, 795–796
Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo): 586
Mezquita Mayor de Granada: 623, 656–657
Mihrab (Córdoba): 778
Military Heritage Centre (Gibraltar): 895
Mirador de San Cristóbal (Granada): 660
Mirador de San Nicolás (Granada): 623, 656
Miraflores Charterhouse (Burgos): 310–311
Miramar Palace and Park (San Sebastián): 202
Miró, Joan: 59, 122, 478, 971; Museum (Barcelona), 49, 117
Mobile phones: See Smartphones
Modernisme: 100, 971, 973; about, 100; Barcelona, 35, 36, 95–113; guided tours, 46; map, 98–99. See also specific architects
Moll Adossat (Barcelona): 156
Monasterio de Irache: 266, 297, 300
Monasterio de la Cartuja (near Granada): 663–664
Monasterio de las Huelgas (Burgos): 310
Monasterio de San José del Carmen (Sevilla): 696
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes (Toledo): 566, 579–580, 600–602
Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 521–532, 970–971; maps, 522, 525
Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Liébana: 347
Mondragón Palace (Ronda): 828
Money: 980–985; average daily expenses, 23; budget tips, 23–24; Gibraltar, 886; Morocco, 918, 930–931
Money-saving tips: 23–24, 979; Ávila, 555; Barcelona, 36, 144; Bilbao, 226; Granada, 617; Madrid, 455; Ronda, 823; San Sebastián, 190–191; sights, 986–987; sleeping, 989–990; Toledo, 564–565
Monistrol de Montserrat Station: 160
Monkeys of Gibraltar: 887, 893–894
Monte Igueldo (San Sebastián): 203
Monte Urgull (San Sebastián): 201–202
Montjuïc (Barcelona): 35, 62, 113–122; map, 114–115; nightlife, 130
Montjuïc Castle (Barcelona): 116–117
Montjuïc Communications Tower (Barcelona): 118
Montserrat: 157–165; eating, 165; history of, 163; map, 162; sights, 162–165; tourist information, 161; transportation, 159–161
Montserrat, Museum of: 164
Montserrat-Aeri Station: 159–160
Montserrat Basilica: 162–164
Montserrat’s Escolania: 165
Monument a Colóm (Barcelona): 61
Monumento al Encierro (Pamplona): 288
Monument to the Martyrs of Independence (Barcelona): 72
Moorish Baths (Granada): 630
Moorish Castle (Gibraltar): 896
Moors: 274, 275, 958–960; architecture, 970; cuisine, 7. See also specific sights
Moroccan Independence Exhibit (Tangier): 938
Morocco: 919–957; almanac, 918; ferries, 913–915, 921–922, 928–929; health concerns, 918; itineraries, 920–924; map, 920; time zones, 918, 922; tourist information, 918; tours, 920–921, 922–923; women in, 936. See also Tangier
Moshe Nahon Synagogue (Tangier): 941
Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario (Santiago): 366
Mosteiro San Paiode Antealtares (Santiago): 367
Mount Irago: 333
Movies, recommended: 1031–1033
Mozarabic Chapel (Toledo): 593
Muelle Adosado (Barcelona): 156
Murillo, Bartolomé: 230, 464, 676, 692, 696, 703, 704, 705, 708, 722, 723, 731–732, 850, 971; biographical sketch, 707, 971; House (Sevilla), 696; Prado Museum (Madrid), 464
Musée Basque (Bayonne): 254
Musée Dar Niaba Art Gallery (Tangier): 941
Musée de la Mer (Biarritz): 259–260
Museo Arqueológico Nacional/MAN (Madrid): 416, 480
Museo Art Nouveau y Art Deco (Salamanca): 389, 395–396
Museo Carmen Thyssen Málaga: 879
Museo Casa Botines (León): 320, 324
Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte (Granada): 661–662
Museo da Catedral (Santiago): 363–366
Museo das Peregrinacións e de Santiago: 370
Museo de América (Madrid): 417, 481
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Esteban Vicente (Segovia): 544
Museo de Bellas Artes (Bilbao): 230
Museo de Bellas Artes (Granada): 638
Museo de Bellas Artes (Sevilla): 683, 729–733
Museo de Burgos: 309
Museo de Història de la Automoción (Salamanca): 396
Museo de Historia de Madrid: 417, 483
Museo de la Alhambra (Granada): 637–638
Museo de la Cerámica de Triana (Sevilla): 737
Museo del Arte Thyssen-Bornemisza (Madrid): 416, 470–473
Museo del Baile Flamenco (Sevilla): 683, 729, 748
Museo del Ejército (Toledo): 566, 582–585
Museo del Greco (Toledo): 566, 579, 598
Museo del Jamón (Madrid): 424
Museo de los Concilios y de la Cultura Visigoda (Toledo): 566, 594–595
Museo del Traje (Madrid): 482
Museo de Nerja: 864
Museo de San Isidoro (León): 325–326
Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo): 566, 574, 580–582
Museo do Pobo Galego (Santiago): 370
Museo Joaquín Peinado (Ronda): 829
Museo Julio Romero de Torres (Córdoba): 772, 792
Museo Nacional del Prado (Madrid): See Prado Museum
Museo Naval (Madrid), 417, 479; (San Sebastián), 200–201; (Sevilla), 724
Museo Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (Sevilla): 683, 728
Museo Picasso Málaga: 878–879
Museo Sefardí (Toledo): 566, 599–600
Museo Sorolla (Madrid): 417, 482
Museo Taurino (Córdoba), 772, 789; (Madrid), 487; (Sevilla), 683, 740
Museo Vivo de Al-Andalus y Torre Calahorra (Córdoba): 772, 785
Museu del Cau Ferrat (Sitges): 179–180
Museu d’Història de Barcelona: 49, 76, 83–84
Museu Frederic Marès (Barcelona): 49, 82–83
Museu Maricel (Sitges): 179
Museu Marítim (Barcelona): 48, 77, 80
Museum of Al-Andalus Life (Córdoba): 772, 785
Museum of Basque Culture (Bayonne): 254
Museum of Contemporary Art (Barcelona): 94
Museum of Human Evolution (Burgos): 309–310
Museum of Montserrat: 164
Museum of Navarre (Pamplona): 282
Museum of Romanticism (Madrid): 483
Museum of San Telmo (San Sebastián): 196–197
Museum of the Americas (Madrid): 417, 481
Museum of the Galician People (Santiago): 370
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Barcelona): 48, 118–120, 130
Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport (Barcelona): 118
Museu Picasso (Barcelona): 48, 84–92; eating near, 147–148; map, 85
Mutriku: 214–215
N
Nao Victoria 500 (Sevila): 724
National Archaeological Museum (Madrid): 416, 480
Naval Museum (Madrid), 417, 479; (San Sebastián), 200–201; (Sevilla), 724
Navarre, Museum of (Pamplona): 282
Nerja: 857–876; eating, 871–875; helpful hints, 859, 862; map, 860–861; nightlife, 869; sights/activities, 862–869; sleeping, 869–871; tourist information, 858; tours, 862; transportation, 858–859, 862, 875–876
Nerja Caves: 867–868
Nerja Museum: 864
New Bridge (Ronda): 821, 826–827
Nightlife: budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations
Notre-Dame d’Aranazau Chapel (Ainhoa): 262
Notre-Dame Gate (St-Jean-de-Luz): 271
Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (Madrid): 431
O
Ocean Village (Gibraltar): 890, 896, 899
O Cebreiro Ethnographic Complex: 335–336
O’Hara’s Battery (Gibraltar): 894
Old Bridge (Ronda): 830
Old City (Barcelona): 34, 76–84; eating, 141–147; maps, 53, 78–79, 132–133, 142–143; nightlife, 129–130; self-guided walks, 51–76; sights, 76–84; sleeping, 131–137
Old Maro Bridge (Nerja): 869
Old Town (Arcos): 809, 811–817; eating, 819–820; map, 812; nightlife, 817; sleeping, 817–818
Old Town (Bilbao): 221, 231–232; eating, 235–236; map, 233; sleeping, 232, 234
Old Town (Granada): 623–631; eating, 671–674; map, 624; self-guided walk, 623–631; sights, 649–655; sleeping, 665–668
Old Town (Ronda): 821, 827–831; eating, 837–840; sleeping, 834–835
Old Town (San Sebastián): 190, 195–200; eating, 207–211; map, 198–199; sleeping, 205
Old Town (Tangier): See Medina
Olympic and Sports Museum (Barcelona): 118
Olympic Stadium (Barcelona): 117–118
P
Packing tips and checklist: 26, 1037
Paella feast, in Nerja: 875
Palace del Mayorazgo (Arcos): 815–816
Palace of Catalan Music (Barcelona): 48, 92–93, 127–128
Palace of Charles V (Granada): 631–632, 636, 637
Palace of Justice (Granada): 629
Palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra (Ronda): 830
Palacio de Cascales (Segovia): 543
Palacio de Cibeles (Madrid): 437
Palacio de Gaudí (Astorga): 330–332
Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (Sevilla): 683, 728
Palacio de la Madraza (Granada): 627–628
Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra (Ronda): 830
Palacio de Mondragón (Ronda): 828
Palacio de Sobrellano (Comillas): 344
Palacio de Viana (Córdoba): 792–793
Palacio Real: See Royal Palace
Palacios Nazaríes (Granada): 632, 638–645; map, 639; orientation, 633, 634–635
Palau de la Generalitat (Barcelona): 74
Palau de la Música Catalana (Barcelona): 48, 92–93
Palau de la Virreina (Barcelona): 127
Palau del Lloctinent (Barcelona): 75–76
Palau Güell (Barcelona): 48, 60, 77
Palau Reial Major (Barcelona): 75
Pallozas: 335–336
Pamplona: 266, 278–295; eating, 293–295; festivals, 279, 286–287; helpful hints, 279, 282; map, 280–281; self-guided walk, 282–288; sights, 289–292; sleeping, 292–293; tourist information, 278–279; transportation, 279, 295
Pamplona Airport: 279
Pamplona Cathedral: 289–290
Pamplona Citadel: 292
Pamplona City Hall: 283
Pamplona Ramparts: 290
Pamplona Running of the Bulls: See Running of the Bulls
Panteón de los Principes (El Escorial): 528–529
Pantéon Real (León): 325–326
Paradores: 993; Arcos de la Frontera, 812–813, 817–819; Granada, 646–647, 669; Santiago de Compostela, 371, 376; Santillana, 341; Toledo, 609
Parc de la Ciutadella (Barcelona): 124
Pariès (Bayonne): 255
Park Güell (Barcelona): 35, 48, 109–113; map, 110–111
Parque del Buen Retiro (Madrid): 416, 479
Parque de Oeste (Madrid): 481
Partal Gardens (Granada): 645
Parte Vieja (San Sebastián): See Old Town
Pasaia: 204
Paseo de la Alameda (Tarifa): 908
Paseo de la Castellana (Madrid): 483–485
Paseo del Espolón (Burgos): 308
Paseo de los Carabineros (Nerja): 866
Paseo de los Tristes (Granada): 629–631
Paseo Marítimo (Tarifa): 907–908, 911–912
Passeig de Gràcia (Barcelona): 35, 36, 42, 52, 127; eating, 149–150; sleeping, 137–138
Passeig del Born (Barcelona): 126, 129
Passports: 25, 886, 978–979, 983
Pastas Caseras Beatriz (Pamplona): 283–284, 295
Patios: overview, 791
Patio de Arrayanes (Granada): 640–641
Patio de Banderas (Sevilla): 693, 719
Patio de la Montería (Sevilla): 712–713
Patio de las Doncellas (Sevilla): 715
Patio de las Muñecas (Sevilla): 716
Patio de los Leones (Granada): 642
Patio de los Naranjos (Córdoba): 776
Patio de los Naranjos (Sevilla): 702
Patio de los Reyes (El Escorial): 524–525
Patio of Lindaraja (Granada): 645
Pazo de Xelmírez (Santiago): 366
Pedrafita do Cebreiro: 334
Pedro I’s Palace (Sevilla): 714–718
Peinado (Joaquín) Museum (Ronda): 829
Peine del Viento (San Sebastián): 203
Pelota: 246, 251, 254, 261, 262, 270
Pensiones: overview, 993
Petit Socco (Tangier): 939, 942
Philip’s Seat: 532
Phones: See Telephones
Picasso, Pablo: 66, 146, 164, 230, 472, 971; biographical sketch, 88–89; Guernica, 216, 217, 218, 475–477; guided tours, in Barcelona, 46; Museo Picasso Málaga, 878–879; Museum (Barcelona), 48, 84–92; Reina Sofía (Madrid), 475–477
Picasso Tower (Madrid): 484
Pickpockets: 27, 37, 52, 411, 620, 655–656, 983
Picos de Europa: 345–349
Pieros: 272
Pileta Cave: 831–833
Pilgrimage and Santiago Museum: 370
Pilgrimage to Saint James: See Camino de Santiago
Pilgrim Friends Office (St-Jean-de-Luz): 270–271
Pilgrims, Office for (Santiago): 355
Piments d’Espelette: 185, 255, 262–263
Pimientos de Padrón: 8, 57–58, 368, 375, 1006
Pintxos: 140–141, 144, 146–151, 207–211, 235–236; glossary of terms, 210–211
Pizarro, Francisco: 961
Plaça de Catalunya (Barcelona): 33, 35, 42, 52, 54, 63, 131; eating, 145; sleeping near, 131, 134
Plaça del Pedró (Barcelona): 94
Plaça del Pi (Barcelona): 126
Plaça del Rei (Barcelona): 75–76
Plaça de Sant Jaume (Barcelona): 74
Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol (Barcelona): 146
Plaça Nova (Barcelona): 67–69
Plaça Reial (Barcelona): 60, 128, 129–130
Plaça Sant Felip Neri (Barcelona): 72
Place de la Kasbah (Tangier): 947
Place Louis XIV (St-Jean-de-Luz): 242
Placeta de San Gregorio (Granada): 658–659
Placeta de San Miguel Bajo (Granada): 659–660, 670
Pla de la Seu (Barcelona): 70
Plage de Corniche (Tangier): 947–948
Plague Monument (Córdoba): 784
Planelles Donat (Barcelona): 63
Playa Calahonda (Nerja): 866
Playa Carabeillo (Nerja): 866
Playa Carabeo (Nerja): 866
Playa Chica (Tarifa): 907
Playa de Burriana (Nerja): 867, 875
Playa de la Concha (San Sebastián): 190, 202, 206–207
Playa del Cantarriján (Nerja): 867
Playa del Salón (Nerja): 866, 874
Playa el Chucho (Nerja): 866
Playa la Torrecilla (Nerja): 866
Playas Laga (Lequeitio): 215
Plaza de Anaya (Salamanca): 389
Plaza de Bib-Rambla (Granada): 626–627
Plaza de Castilla (Madrid): 484–485
Plaza de Cibeles (Madrid): 484
Plaza de Colon (Madrid): 484
Plaza de Doña Elvira (Sevilla): 698
Plaza de España (Arcos): 817
Plaza de España (Madrid): 440
Plaza de España (Medina Sidonia): 854
Plaza de España (Sevilla): 678, 735–736, 749
Plaza de Isabel II (Madrid): 433, 492
Plaza de la Alfalfa (Sevilla), eating: 762–763
Plaza de la Alianza (Sevilla): 698
Plaza de la Constitución (San Sebastián): 196
Plaza de la Corredera (Córdoba): 792
Plaza de la Encarnación (Sevilla): 728–729
Plaza de las Tendillas (Córdoba): 790–791
Plaza de la Trinidad (Granada): 668
Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes (Sevilla): 691–692
Plaza del Ayuntamiento (Toledo): 575–576
Plaza del Azogüejo (Segovia): 541
Plaza del Cabildo (Arcos): 811–813
Plaza del Carmen (Madrid): 499
Plaza del Castillo (Pamplona): 278, 288, 293
Plaza del Conde (Toledo): 578, 602
Plaza del Corillo (Salamanca): 386
Plaza del Ingenio (Frigiliana): 876–877
Plaza del Mío Cid (Burgos): 308
Plaza de los Venerables (Sevilla): 697–698
Plaza del Salvador (Sevilla): 727, 746
Plaza del Socorro (Ronda): 837
Plaza del Triunfo (Sevilla): 692
Plaza de María Auxiliadora (Ronda): 829
Plaza de Oriente (Madrid): 432–433, 510
Plaza de San Martín (León): 328
Plaza de San Martín (Segovia): 543–544
Plaza de Santa Cruz (Sevilla): 694, 696
Plaza de Toros (Madrid): 486–487
Plaza de Toros (Pamplona): 284–285, 288
Plaza de Toros (Sevilla): 740
Plaza de Zocodover (Toledo): 563, 571–574, 580, 602–603; eating, 610; sleeping, 605
Plaza Isabel La Católica (Granada): 628–629
Plaza Larga (Granada): 660, 670
Plaza Mayor (Burgos): 314
Plaza Mayor (León): 319
Plaza Mayor (Madrid): 416, 424–425, 427; eating, 510–512; map, 422–423; shopping, 488–489; sleeping, 498–499, 500
Plaza Mayor (Salamanca): 380, 381, 382–383, 386; eating, 401
Plaza Mayor (Segovia): 537, 545; eating, 553; nightlife, 553; sleeping near, 551
Plaza Nueva (Bilbao): 236
Plaza Nueva (Granada): 616, 629, 663; eating, 671–673; sleeping, 665, 667
Plaza Nueva (Sevilla): 678, 725–726, 743; eating near, 761–762
Plaza San Isidoro (León): 320
Plaza San Marcelo (León): 318
Pomegranate Gate (Granada): 647
Ponce de León, Juan: 961
Portico of Glory (Santiago): 361–363
Port Vell (Barcelona): 35, 61–62
Post offices: 1011. See also specific destinations
Potes: 347
Pound sterling: 886
Prado Museum (Madrid): 455–470; eating near, 504–505; map, 460–461; orientation, 416, 455, 457; self-guided tour, 457–470; sights near, 478–481; sleeping near, 499, 500
Praza da Inmaculada (Santiago): 366
Praza da Quintana (Santiago): 367
Praza das Praterías (Santiago): 367–368
Praza do Obradoiro (Santiago): 357–358, 366
Pride Parade (Madrid): 480–481
Primark (Madrid): 439–440
Pronunciation guide: 1038
Puente de Isabel II (Sevilla): 736
Puente del Carbón (Granada): 625
Puente la Reina: 266, 272, 296–297
Puente Nuevo (Ronda): 821, 826–827
Puente Viejo (Ronda): 830
Puerta de Almodóvar (Córdoba): 788, 801–802
Puerta del Lagarto (Sevilla): 702
Puerta del Perdón (Sevilla): 702
Puerta del Sol (Madrid): 408, 416, 420–423; eating, 510–512; map, 422–423; sleeping near, 495, 498, 499–500
Puerta del Vino (Granada): 647
Puerta Nueva (Granada): 660
Puerto Banús: 880
Puerto de Ibañeta: 273
Puig i Cadafalch, Josep: 66–67, 97, 121–122, 146, 164–165
Q
Quadrat d’Or (Barcelona): 35, 127
Queen Isabella: See Isabel
Queensway Quay Marina (Gibraltar): 896, 899–900
R
Rabat (Morocco): 956
Rail passes: 23, 25, 1013, 1016, 1024
Rail travel: See Train travel
Rambla of Flowers (Barcelona): 56–57
Rambla of the Little Birds (Barcelona): 55–56
Ramblas (Barcelona): 34, 48, 52, 54–55, 59, 76; eating, 141–145; guided tours, 46; map, 53; self-guided walk, 51–62; sights, 76–80, 80; sleeping, 134–135
Ratón Pérez (Madrid): 436
Raval (Barcelona): 34, 60–61, 94; eating, 94, 148–149; map, 95; nightlife, 94
Real Colegiata de San Isidoro (León): 319–320
Real Jardín Botánico (Madrid): 417, 470
Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda: 824–826
Real Sociedad Económica (Madrid): 429
Reconquista: overview, 960, 962
Reial Cercle Artistic Museum (Barcelona): 67
Reina Sofía (Madrid): 416, 473–478
Renaixença: 100. See also Modernisme
RENFE: See Train travel
Rental properties: 990–991, 994–996; Barcelona, 139
ReservaTauro: 833
Reservations: sights, 25–26; sleeping, 24, 994–995
Resources from Rick Steves: 1024–1026
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Retiro Park (Madrid): 416, 479
Ribera (Barcelona): See El Born
Rif Cinema (Tangier): 937, 949
Rio Chillar (Nerja): 868
Roast suckling pig: 315, 400, 505, 552–553, 1006
Rock of Gibraltar: 880–881, 890–896
Roma (Gypsies), of Granada: 660–663
Roman aqueducts: See Aqueducts, Roman
Roman Bridge (Córdoba): 784
Roman Bridge (Salamanca): 390
Romans, ancient (Roman sites): 316, 319, 958; Arcos, 814; Barcelona, 55–56, 62, 67, 70, 71, 74–75; Córdoba, 784, 788–789, 791; Itálica, 738–739; Lugo, 338; Salmanca, 390; Segovia, 536, 541, 542
Roman Temple (Córdoba): 791
Romanticism, Museum of (Madrid): 483
Romero de Torres (Julio) Museum (Córdoba): 772, 792
Roncesvalles: 266, 272, 273, 276
Roncesvalles Pass: 273
Ronda: 808, 821–841; eating, 837–841; helpful hints, 823–824; maps, 822, 838; nightlife, 833–834; sights/activities, 824–833; sleeping, 834–836; tourist information, 823; tours, 824; transportation, 823, 841
Ronda Gorge: 821, 826–827, 829–831
Ronda Guitar House: 833
Rosemary scam, in Sevilla: 684
Route de la Plage Merkala (Tangier): 948
Route of the Patios in San Basilio (Córdoba): 772, 790
Route of the White Hill Towns: 805; map, 842–843
Royal Academy of Science and Arts (Barcelona): 55
Royal Alcázar (Sevilla): 678, 710–719; guided tours, 686–687, 711–712; map, 711; orientation, 683, 710–712; self-guided tour, 712–719
Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art (Jerez): 848–850
Royal Armory (Madrid): 452–453
Royal Botanical Garden (Madrid): 417, 470
Royal Chapel (Córdoba): 779
Royal Chapel (Granada): 623, 627, 649–652
Royal Chapel (Madrid): 449–450
Royal Chapel (Sevilla): 709
Royal Chapel Square (Granada): 627–628
Royal Collections Gallery (Madrid): 416, 432, 453–454
Royal families of Spain: 434–435
Royal Library (El Escorial): 525–526
Royal Palace (Barcelona): 75
Royal Palace (Madrid): 432, 441–453; map, 442; orientation, 416, 441, 443; self-guided tour, 443–453
Royal Pantheon (El Escorial): 529
Royal Pantheon (León): 325–326
Royal St. Mary’s Church (O Cebreiro): 336–337
Royal Stables of Córdoba: 794–795
Royal Theater (Madrid): 433
Rúa do Franco (Santiago): 356, 376
Rubens, Peter Paul: 196, 365, 466, 472
Rue de la Kasbah (Tangier): 945–946
Rue de la Plage (Tangier): 941
Rue de la République (St-Jean-de-Luz): 242–243, 248
Rue d’Espagne (St-Jean-de-Luz): 271
Rue Gambetta (St-Jean-de-Luz): 243–244, 249
Running of the Bulls (Pamplona): 278, 282, 286–287, 1028; Monument, 288
Rusiñol, Santiago: 180
S
Sabater Hermanos (Barcelona): 72
Sacred Art Museum (Santiago): 367
Sacred Cave (Montserrat): 164–165
Sacromonte (Granada): 660–663
Safety: See Theft alerts
Sagrada Família (Barcelona): 102–109; eating near, 151; map, 103; orientation, 48, 102–104; self-guided tour, 104–109
Sahagún: 316
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church (Tangier): 937
Ste. Marie Cathédrale (Bayonne): 254–255
St. Ginès Church (Madrid): 435–436
St. Jean-Baptiste Church (St-Jean-de-Luz): 244–247
St-Jean-de-Luz: 182, 238–251; eating, 248–250; helpful hints, 239–240; map, 244–245; self-guided walk, 242–247; sleeping, 247–248; tourist information, 238–239; tours, 240–241; transportation, 239, 250–251
St-Jean-Pied-de-Port: 266, 269–272
“St. John of the Monarchs” (Toledo): 566, 579, 600–602
St. Martin Church (Segovia): 544
St. Martin’s Monastery (Santiago): 366
St. Mary’s Church (Lequeitio): 215
St. Matthew Church (Tarifa): 903
St. Michael’s Cave (Gibraltar): 894–895
St. Pelayo Monastery (Santiago): 367
Salamanca: 17, 379–403, 554; eating, 400–403; helpful hints, 382; itineraries, 379–380; maps, 380, 384–385, 398–399; self-guided walk, 382–390; sights, 390–396; sleeping, 396–397; tourist information, 381; transportation, 381–382, 403
Salamanca Art Nouveau and Art Deco Museum: 389, 395–396
Salamanca Cathedral: 389, 392–393
Salamanca Town Hall: 383
Salamanca University: 387–388, 391–392
Salón del Almirante (Sevilla): 713–714
Samos: 337
San Agustín Market (Granada): 673
San Antonio de la Florida Hermitage (Madrid): 417, 482
San Antonio of Padua Church (Frigiliana): 877–878
San Antón Market (Madrid): 509
San Cristóbal Viewpoint (Granada): 660
Sandeman (Jerez): 851–852
San Esteban Church (Salamanca): 390, 393–394
San Fermín Txikito (Pamplona): 278, 279
San Ginés Chocolatería (Madrid): 435–436, 494, 512–513
San Gregorio Church (Granada): 659
San Ildefonso Palace (near Segovia): 549–550
San Isidoro (León): 319–320, 325–326
San Isidoro Museum (León): 325–326
San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio (Toledo): 566, 579–580, 600–602
San Lorenzo Church (Pamplona): 291
San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 521–532, 970–971; maps, 522, 525
San Miguel Market (Madrid): 428, 510
San Nicolás de Bari Church (Burgos): 308
San Nicolás Island: 215
San Nicolás Viewpoint (Granada): 623, 656
San Pablo Airport (Sevilla): 679, 682, 684
San Pedro and San Pablo Church (Granada): 631
San Pedro Church (Arcos): 816
San Pedro de Alcántara: 880
San Pedro’s Church (Arcos): 815–816
San Román Church (Toledo): 594–595
San Salvador Church (Nerja): 864
San Saturnino Church (Pamplona): 290–291
San Sebastián: 182, 189–214; eating, 207–212; helpful hints, 192–194; itineraries, 189–190; maps, 192–193, 198–199; nightlife, 210–211; sights, 195–204; sleeping, 204–207; tourist information, 190–191; tours, 194–195; transportation, 191–192, 194, 213–214
San Sebastián Airport: 191
San Sebastián Aquarium: 201
San Sebastián Card: 190–191
San Sebastián Port: 200–202
Sansol: 300
Santa Ana Church (Granada): 629
Santa Ana Church (Sevilla): 738
Santa Anna Church (Barcelona): 66
Santa Catalina de Zafra (Granada): 630–631
Santa Caterina Market (Barcelona): 49, 70, 93, 148
Santa Cova (Montserrat): 164–165
Santa Cruz (Sevilla): See Barrio Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo): 566, 574, 580–582
Santa Eulàlia (Barcelona): 62, 80
Santa Isabel la Real Convent (Granada): 660
Santa María Church (Arcos): 813–814
Santa María Church (Cadaqués): 175
Santa María de Lebeña Church (La Hermida): 346
Santa María del Mar Church (Barcelona): 49, 93–94
Santa María del Pi (Barcelona): 58
Santa María la Blanca Synagogue (Toledo): 579, 600
Santa María la Mayor Church (Ronda): 827–828
Santa María la Real (O Cebreiro): 336–337
Sant Antoni Market (Barcelona): 94
Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla Church (Sitges): 179
San Telmo Museoa (San Sebastián): 196–197
Sant Felip Neri Church (Barcelona): 72
Santiago Cathedral (Bilbao): 231
Santiago de Compostela: 15, 17, 267, 350–378; eating, 374–378; festivals, 355; helpful hints, 355–356; itineraries, 351; maps, 352–353, 372–373; shopping, 355; sights, 356–370; sleeping, 371–374; tourist information, 351; transportation, 354, 355, 378
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral: 356–366; Museum, 363–366
Santiago de Compostela City Hall: 358
Santiago de Compostela University: 358
Santillana del Mar: 340–341
Santiponce: 738–739
Sant Joan Chapel (Montserrat): 164
Sant Joan Funicular (Montserrat): 164
Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 267, 300–301
Santo Domingo de Silos: 311
Santo Tomé (Toledo): 566, 578, 596–597, 611
Sants Train Station (Barcelona): 36, 153–155
San Vicente Basilica (Ávila): 559
Sare (Sara): 261–262
Sartre, Jean-Paul: 340
Scala Coeli (Salamanca): 391
Schweppes (Madrid): 440
Segovia: 536–554; eating, 552–553; helpful hints, 539–540; history of, 542; map, 538–539; nightlife, 553; self-guided walk, 540–549; sights, 549–550; sleeping, 551–552; tourist information, 537; transportation, 536–539, 553–554
Segovia Cathedral: 545–547
Semana Santa: See Holy Week
Seneca: 788
Sephardic Jewish Museum (Toledo): 566, 579, 599–600
Serrano, Juan: 790
Sevilla: 14, 676–766; at a glance, 683; arrival in, 679, 682, 684; eating, 755–764; experiences, 739–741; festivals, 684, 688–689, 740–741, 1028; helpful hints, 684–685; itineraries, 678; maps, 677, 680–681, 690, 711, 744–745, 752–753, 756–757; nightlife, 747–749; orientation, 678–679; self-guided walk, 688–698; shopping, 741–746; sights, 699–739; sleeping, 750–755; tourist information, 679; tours, 686–688; transportation, 679, 682, 684, 685–686, 764–766
Sevilla April Fair: 684, 740–741, 1028
Sevilla Cathedral: 699–710; map, 700; orientation, 683, 699–700; self-guided tour, 700–710
Sevilla City Hall: 725–726
Sevilla Fine Arts Museum: 683, 729–733
Sevilla University: 735
Ship Room (Granada): 641
Shopping: clothing sizes, 1034–1035; hours, 979; VAT refunds, 984–985. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Siege Tunnels (Gibraltar): 895
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park: 844–845
Sierra Pambley Museum (León): 324–325
Sightseeing (sights): advance tickets, 986–987; budgeting, 23; general tips, 987–988; maps and navigation tools, 985–986; planning tips, 986; reservations, 25–26, 986–987; top destinations, 11–18; whirlwind three-week tour, 20–21. See also Itineraries; specific sights and destinations
Silla de Felipe II: 532
SIM cards: 1009–1011
Sinagoga del Tránsito (Toledo): 566, 579, 599–600
Sinagoga de Santa María la Blanca (Toledo): 579, 600
Sitges: 179–180
Sleep code: 989
Sleeping: 988–996; glossary of terms, 992; online resources, 990–991; rates and deals, 989–990; reservations, 24, 994–995; types of accommodations, 990–996. See also Paradores; and specific destinations
Smartphones: 26, 1008–1011. See also Apps
Sobrino del Botín (Madrid): 505
Soccer: 959; Barcelona, 55, 126; Madrid, 436, 484, 487
Solbes (San Sebastián): 212
Sorolla (Joaquín) Museum (Madrid): 417, 482
South Coast: See Costa del Sol
Spanish Basque Country: 188–237; cuisine, 8, 184–185, 207; map, 184–185
Spanish Civil War: 301, 585; General Archive of the Civil War (Salamanca), 389; guided tours, in Barcelona, 50; overview, 535, 965
Spanish guitars: concerts, 128–129, 493, 661, 663, 790, 817, 833–834; shopping for, 492
Spanish Inquisition: about, 426; overview, 971
Spanish language: See Language
Spanish restaurant phrases: 1040
Spanish survival phrases: 1039
Special events: See Festivals
Stairway to Heaven (Salamanca): 391
Stradivarius (Antonius) Room (Madrid): 450
Studebaker: 743
Subway: See Metro
T
Tabacs Gimeno (Barcelona): 57
Tabakalera International Culture Center (San Sebastián): 204
Tabancos: 853
Taconera Gardens (Pamplona): 291
Tajo River Gorge: 570, 609, 821, 826–827, 829–831
Tales of the Alhambra (Irving): 644–645, 1031
TALGO: See Train travel
Tangier (Morocco): 18, 923–955; arrival in, 928–929; eating, 952–955; excursions from Tarifa, 902; ferries, 913–915, 921–922, 928–929; helpful hints, 930–932; itineraries, 927; maps, 928, 934; nightlife, 948–949; orientation, 927–928; sights/activities, 933–948; sleeping, 949–951; tours, 932–933; transportation, 928–930
Tangier American Legation Museum (Morocco): 943–945
Tangier Beach and Marina (Morocco): 947–948
Tangier Ibn Battuta Airport (Morocco): 929
Tapas: 1001–1005; glossary of terms, 210–211, 1002–1003. See also Pintxos; and specific destinations
Tarantos: 128
Tarifa: 901–915; eating, 910–913; ferries, 913–914, 921–922, 928–929; helpful hints, 902–903; map, 904–905; nightlife, 908; sights/activities, 903–908; sleeping, 908–910; tourist information, 901–902; transportation, 902, 913–915
Taverna Basca Irati (Barcelona): 58, 141
Taxes, VAT refunds: 984–985
Taxis: 1017–1018; tipping, 984. See also specific destinations
Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres): 167–170
Teatro Eslava (Madrid): 512
Teleféricos: See Funiculars
Telefónica (Madrid): 439
Telephones: 1008–1011; France, 240; Gibraltar, 886; Morocco, 918
Temperatures, average monthly: 1035
Temple of Augustus (Barcelona): 74–75
Temple of Debod (Madrid): 481
Teresa of Ávila, Saint: 554, 559–560, 696, 961
Terrace dar Dbagh (Tangier): 942
Terraza del Miradero (Toledo): 603–604
Theft alerts: 27, 978, 983, 1023; Barcelona, 37, 52; Granada, 620, 655–656; Madrid, 411
Third of May, 1808 (Goya): 72, 468
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Madrid): 416, 470–473
Tiepolo, Giambattista: 445, 448, 450–452, 453
Time zones: 979; Morocco, 918, 922
Tinell Hall (Barcelona): 84
Tío Pepe González Byass (Jerez): 852
Tipping: 984, 1001; Morocco, 918
Titian: 120, 453, 465, 528, 592
Toledo: 17, 562–613; at a glance, 566; arrival in, 565–567; eating, 609–611; helpful hints, 567, 570; history of, 572; itineraries, 562–563; maps, 564, 568–569, 606–607; nightlife, 603–604; self-guided walks, 571–580; sights, 580–603; sleeping, 604–609; tourist information, 564–565; tours, 570–571; transportation, 565–567, 611–613
Toledo Cathedral: 566, 575, 576, 586–594; map, 587; self-guided tour, 588–593
Toledo City Hall: 564, 575–576
Tormes River: 390
Torre del Oro (Sevilla): 724
Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 425, 427
Torremolinos: 879
Torres de La Clerecía (Salamanca): 391
Tour guides: tipping, 984. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 978. See also specific destinations
Tourist trains: Cadaqués, 173; Granada, 622; Nerja, 868; San Sebastián, 195; St-Jean-de-Luz, 240; Toledo, 570
Tours: Rick Steves, 1025. See also specific destinations
Trafalgar cemetery (Gibraltar): 887
Train travel: 1011–1017; budgeting, 23; map, 1014–1015; tickets, 1013–1017; types of trains, 1012–1013. See also specific destinations
Tránsito Synagogue (Toledo): 566, 579, 599–600
Transparente (Toledo): 591
Transportation: 1011–1024; budgeting, 23; map, 1014–1015; pre-booking, 25. See also Boat travel and cruises; and specific destinations
Travel advisories: 977–978; Morocco, 918
Travel insurance: 26, 980, 1020
Travel smarts: 27–28
Travel tips: 977–980
Treasury (Córdoba): 779–781
Treasury (Toledo): 593
Triana (Sevilla): 683, 736–738; eating, 763–764
Trip costs: 23
Triumphal Arch (Córdoba): 784
Tuna music, in Salamanca: 382–383, 386
“Tutti Frutti” (Nerja), eating: 874
Txikiteo: 184, 207–211; glossary of terms, 210–211
U
University of Salamanca: 387–388, 391–392
University of Sevilla: 735
V
Valdevaqueros: 908
Valley of the Fallen (Valle de los Caídos): 532–536
VAT refunds: 984–985
Vejer de la Frontera: 855
Velázquez, Diego: 87, 90, 120, 453, 591, 724–725, 730, 850, 971, 1033; Prado Museum (Madrid), 463–464
Vera Cruz Church (near Segovia): 549
Viana: 300
Vicente (Esteban) Museum (Segovia): 544
Viceroy’s Palace (Barcelona): 75–76
Villafranca del Bierzo: 267, 272, 333–334
Villaviciosa Chapel (Córdoba): 778–779
Virgen de la Antigua (Sevilla): 705
Virgin of Dolores (Zahara): 843
Virgin of the Rock (Biarritz): 260
Visigothic Mosaic (Córdoba): 777
Visigothic Museum (Toledo): 566, 594–595
Visigothic Ruins (Toledo): 778
Visitor information: 978. See also specific destinations
Vuelta del Castillo Park (Pamplona): 292
W
Walking trails: See Hiking
Washington Irving Room (Granada): 644–645
Weeping Virgin (Sevilla): 683, 733
Whale watching, in Tarifa: 906–907
White hill towns of Andalucía: 17, 805–854; at a glance, 808; maps, 806–807, 842–843
Windsurfing: 855, 908; Tarifa, 901, 908, 913
Wine and vineyards: 1005–1007; Rioja, 266, 298–299, 300. See also Sherry
Wine Gate (Granada): 647
Women in Morocco: 936
World Expo Fairgrounds (Barcelona): 35, 120–122
World Trade Center (Barcelona): 156
World War II: 239, 881–882; Tunnels (Gibraltar), 896
Y
Yeguada de la Cartuja: 854
Yemas: 560
Ysios: 298–299
Z
Zahara de la Sierra: 766, 808, 842–844
Zambra dance, in Granada: 662–663
Zarautz: 215
Zumaia: 215