INDEX
| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Z |
A
Abbazia di Novacella: 228
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso: 449–450
A.C. Milan: 277
Accademia (Florence): 470, 488–489, 492; eating near, 532–533; reservations, 25, 482–483; sleeping near, 513
Accademia (Venice): 44, 56, 72–74
Accademia Bridge (Venice): 37, 56, 93; eating near, 111–112; map, 98–99; sleeping near, 93, 96
Accademia Musicale Chigiana (Siena): 607
Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Acqua alta: 42–43
Adige River: 159, 171–172, 229
Agriturismi: 1161–1162. See also specific destinations
Airbnb: 24, 1156–1157, 1159–1160
Air conditioning, in hotel rooms: 27–28, 354, 1158
Airfares (airlines): 23, 25, 1201–1202
Airports: Florence, 545–546; Milan, 332–334; Naples, 1011–1012; Perugia/Assisi, 758; Pisa, 570–571; Rome, 945–947; Venice, 120–123; Verona, 162
Alabaster: 640, 642; Museum (Volterra), 645; Showroom and Workshop (Volterra), 646–647
Almanac, Italy: 1127
Alpe di Seceda: 226
Alpe di Siusi: 201, 214–226; biking, 220, 225–226; hiking, 215, 218, 221–225; map, 216–217
Altar of Peace (Ara Pacis; Rome): 822, 827, 895
Altesino (near Montalcino): 708
Alto Adige: See Dolomites
Amalfi Coast: 18, 1078–1124; maps, 1080, 1086–1087; planning tips, 1079; self-guided tour, 1083–1089; tours, 962–963, 1043, 1081–1082; transportation, 1079–1083. See also Sorrento
Amalfi Town: 1088–1089, 1099–1106; eating, 1106; map, 1101; sights/activities, 1102–1105; transportation, 1106
Amalfi Town Cathedral: 1103–1104
Ambrose, Saint: 271, 289, 291, 304–305, 311–312, 313
American Bookstores: Milan, 277; Rome, 807, 810
Amerigo Vespucci Airport (Florence): 545–546
Amphitheaters (arenas): Assisi, 724–725; Lucca, 577, 579; Pompeii, 1031; Verona, 162–163, 164, 166. See also Colosseum
Anacapri: 1064, 1066, 1072–1075; information, 1066; sights/activities, 1072–1075; transportation, 1067–1069
Anatomy Theater (Padua): 136–137
Anchovy Festival (Monterosso): 340
Ancient Rome: 805–806, 839–856; eating near, 922–927; guided tours, 821, 824; history of, 848, 854, 1125–1129; maps, 839, 841, 906–907, 1128; nightlife, 905; sights, 840–856; sleeping near, 907–908
Andersen, Hans Christian: 429
Anthony of Padua, Saint: 144–150
Antica Civita: 799
Apartment rentals: 1156–1157, 1159–1160
Aperitivo: 168, 181, 327, 589, 590–591, 630, 652, 922, 926, 1169–1170, 1178
Apps: 26, 1182–1183; language, 28, 1144; messaging, 1183–1184; navigation and maps, 671, 1150, 1197; payment, 1146; Rome, 813, 820; sightseeing, 1152; train schedules, 341–342, 1192; user reviews, 1157; Venice, 39
Aracoeli Church (Rome): 860
Ara di Cesare (Rome): 852
Ara Pacis (Rome): 822, 827, 895; eating near, 935–936
Arch of Constantine (Rome): 823, 844
Arch of Septimius Severus (Rome): 854
Arch of Titus (Rome): 847
Arco della Pace (Milan): 314
Arco di Tito (Rome): 847
“Arena” (Scrovegni) Chapel (Padua): 138–143; map, 141
Arengario Palace (Milan): 296–297
Armory (Venice): 69
Arnikahütte: 222
Arno River: 460, 481, 548–549, 553–554
Arsenale (Venice): 83
Arsenal Museum (Amalfi): 1102–1103
Art: history timeline, 1130–1131; Venice Biennale, 58, 83–84. See also specific artists
“Artisan Lane” (Volterra): 640
Art museums: reservations, 25; reservations, advance tickets, and passes, 1151–1152; sightseeing tips, 1150–1153. See also specific art museums
Assisi: 17, 718–758; eating, 755–757; helpful hints, 721–723; information, 720; maps, 719, 722–723, 726–727, 752–753; planning tips, 719; sights, 735–752; sleeping, 752–755; transportation, 720–721, 724, 757–758; walking tours, 724–747
Assisi Pinacoteca: 748
ATMs: 1145–1148. See also specific destinations
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 1203
Auditorium Parco della Musica (Rome): 903–904
Augustine of Hippo: 291, 304, 664
Augustus: 827, 834, 848, 852, 864, 867, 903, 1063, 1076, 1128, 1134
B
Bagatti Valsecchi Museum (Milan): 311
Bagnoregio: 791–802; eating, 802; helpful hints, 795–796; map, 792–793; sleeping, 801; transportation, 792–795, 802
Bagno Vignoni: 674, 712, 715–716
Baia delle Favole (Sestri Levante): 429, 430–431
Baia del Silenzio (Sestri Levante): 431–432
Banca Intesa Sanpaolo (Naples): 987
Banchi di Sopra (Siena): 611–612
Banchi di Sotto (Siena): 611–612
Banco di Napoli (Naples): 987
Bancogiro (Venice): 103–106
Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 26. See also Money
Baptistery: Florence, 471, 476–477, 486; Milan, 290–291; Padua, 138; Pisa, 563–565; Siena, 603, 621; Verona, 173
Bar Camparino (Milan): 295–296
Bar Centrale (Riomaggiore): 412, 414, 416
Bardini Garden (Florence): 506, 507
Bargello (Florence): 470, 503–504
Bars and cafés: overview, 1168–1169. See also specific destinations
Bartolomeo, Saint: 290
Basilica Aemilia (Rome): 852
Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi): 735–747; maps, 738, 744; self-guided tour, 737–747
Basilica di San Marco (Venice): See St. Mark’s Basilica
Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli (Assisi): 749–750
Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio (Milan): 284, 304–305
Basilica of Constantine (Rome): 847–848
Basilica of St. Anthony (Padua): 144–150; map, 146
Basilica of St. Clare (Assisi): 729–731
Basilica of St. Francis (Assisi): See Basilica di San Francesco
Basilica Palladiana (Vicenza): 157
Basilica San Pietro (Rome): 822, 872–879; map, 873
Baths of Caracalla (Rome): 856–857
Baths of Diocletian (Rome): 823, 899
Baths of the Forum (Pompeii): 1025–1026
Baveno: 264
Beaches: Atrani, 1105; Bonassola, 425; Capri, 1068, 1075; Cinque Terre, 342, 350; Manarola, 399; Monterosso, 364; Riomaggiore, 413; Vernazza, 384; Lake Como, 243, 253; Lake Maggiore, 268; Levanto, 421; Marina di Praia, 1088; Marina di Puolo, 1054; Meta Beach, 1053–1054; Paraggi, 440, 446, 449; Portofino, 450; Porto Venere, 453; Positano, 1095–1096, 1096; Punta del Capo, 1054; Santa Margherita, 438, 440; Sestri Levante, 430–432; Sorrento, 1053–1054; Venice, 58, 82
Beccafumi, Domenico: 615
Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs): overview, 1158–1159
Beer: 198, 580, 905, 932, 1177–1178
Bella figura: 10
Bellagio: 250–256, 258; eating, 254–256; helpful hints, 252; information, 250; map, 251; sights/activities, 252–253; sleeping, 254; transportation, 250
Bellini (cocktail): 109
Bellini family: 69–72, 78–79, 144, 157, 309–310, 993
Bellini Theater (Naples): 971–972
Bell towers (campaniles): Castelrotto, 204–205; Florence, 471, 475, 485–486; Pisa, 556–560; Positano, 1094; Venice, 45, 60–61, 70
Belluno: 226–227
Bergamo Airport (Milan): 333–334
Bernini, Giovanni Lorenzo: 608, 618, 1135; in Rome, 832–833, 837–838, 869, 876–877, 879, 894, 899–900
Beverages: 1176–1181. See also Wine and vineyards
Biblioteca Ambrosiana (Milan): 302
Biking (bike rentals): Alpe di Siusi, 220, 225–226; Bolzano, 188; Compatsch, 220; Florence, 465–466; Levanto, 420; Lucca, 575–576, 584–585; Milan, 279; Orvieto, 765; Rome, 890; Santa Margherita, 434–435
Bishop’s Palace (Pienza): 696–697
Blue Grotto (Capri): 1070–1071
Blue Marlin Bar (Vernazza): 381, 385, 390
Boating: Amalfi Town, 1102; Capri, 1069–1070; Cinque Terre, 342, 413–414; Levanto, 420; Positano, 1096; Sorrento, 1054. See also Kayaking
Boat travel: map, 1186–1187; Amalfi Coast, 1009, 1082; Capri, 1009, 1065–1066, 1069–1070, 1077; Cinque Terre, 343–345, 353, 365, 384, 404; Civitavecchia, 948; Lake Como, 232–235, 243, 250, 257–259; Lake Maggiore, 264; Levanto, 421, 429; Livorno, 546; Naples, 961, 1009, 1011; Portofino, 446, 450; Porto Venere, 451–452; Positano, 1092, 1096; Rome, 948; Santa Margherita, 444; Sestri Levante, 433; Sorrento, 1042, 1062–1063; Venice, 38–46, 53–54, 82–83, 117–118, 122, 123; Grand Canal cruise, 47–58
Boboli Garden (Florence): 506, 507
Bolzano: 185–201; eating, 198–200; helpful hints, 188; information, 186; map, 190–191; sights/activities, 192–196; sleeping, 196–197; transportation, 186, 200–201; walking tour, 188–191
Bolzano Cathedral: 189
Bolzano City Hall: 189–190
Bolzano Dominican Church: 193–194
Bonassola: 424–425; hiking, 347, 352–353, 424–425
Books, recommended: 1207–1211
Borghese Gallery (Rome): 822, 891–895; map, 893
Borghese Gardens (Rome): 890–891
Borgo Marinaro (Naples): 996–997
Borgo Santi Apostoli (Florence): 511
Borgo Stretto (Pisa): 554
Borromeo Islands: 263, 266–270; map, 265
Borsa (Milan): 302
Bosco di San Francesco (Assisi): 747
Botticelli, Sandro: 301, 489, 500
Boy Extracting a Thorn: 858
Brancacci Chapel (Florence): 471, 507
Branca Tower (Milan): 314
Bravio delle Botti (Montepulciano): 676, 680–681
Breakfast: overview, 1164
Brera (Milan): eating, 329–330
Brera Art Gallery (Milan): 284, 309–310
Bressanone: 228
Bridge of St. Antonio (Bolzano): 196
Bridge of Sighs (Venice): 45, 58, 69, 70
Brindisi: transportation, 119, 943, 1010
Brixen: 228
Brothel (Pompeii): 1029
Brunelleschi, Filippo: 475–476, 484, 486, 488, 492, 493, 505, 868, 1207
Brunello di Montalcino: 531, 674, 700, 702, 703, 704–708, 712–713
Brunello Wine Bus: 705
Budgeting: 23
Buses (bus travel): 1194–1195; maps, 1186–1187, 1193. See also specific destinations
Business hours: 1144
C
Cable cars (funiculars): Alpe di Siusi, 218–219, 222, 223; Capri, 1068–1069, 1074–1075; Castelrotto, 209; Compatsch, 218–219; Florian, 223, 224; Naples, 959, 987, 998; Oberbozen, 194–195; Puflatsch, 222, 223
Cabs: 1195; tipping, 1148. See also specific destinations
Cadenabbia: 259
Ca’ d’Oro (Venice): 53
Cafés: overview, 1168–1169. See also specific destinations
Caffè Florian (Venice): 73, 86
Caffè Pedrocchi (Padua): 134–135
Caffè Tazza d’Oro (Rome): 834
Ca’ Foscari (Venice): 56
Calata Porta di Massa: 1011
Calatrava Bridge (Venice): 49
Caligula’s Palace (Rome): 850
Calvary Hill (Castelrotto): 208–209
Campania ArteCard: 952, 957, 1008
Campaniles: See Bell towers
Campatelli Tower House (San Gimignano): 666
Campidoglio (Rome): 823, 857–858
Campo de’ Fiori (Rome): 828–829; eating near, 927, 930; market, 828, 902; nightlife, 905; shopping, 901; sleeping, 909–911
Campo dei Miracoli (Pisa): See Field of Miracles
Campo San Barnaba (Venice): eating, 112–113
Campo San Bartolomeo (Venice): 101–102
Campo Santa Margarita (Venice): 113–114
Campo Santa Maria Formosa (Venice): 91–92, 110–111, 115, 116
Camposanto Cemetery (Pisa): 565–567
Canal District (Milan): 285, 316–317; eating, 330–331
Canals of Venice: See Venice canals
Canazei: 227
Cannaregio (Venice): 31, 49, 52; eating, 100–101
Cannaregio Canal (Venice): 49
Canoeing: See Kayaking
Canova, Antonio: 69, 78, 144, 259, 267, 301, 309, 894
Cantina della Talosa (Montepulciano): 688
Ca’ Pesaro (Venice): 52
Capitoline Hill (Rome): 810, 857–860; map, 859
Capitoline Museums (Rome): 822, 858–860
Capitoline She-Wolf: 858
Capodimonte Museum (Naples): 992–995
Capodimonte Park (Naples): 992
Capote, Truman: 447
Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua): 138–143; map, 141
Cappella del Transito (Assisi): 750
Cappella Sansevero (Naples): 978, 983–984
Cappelle Medicee (Florence): 470, 494
Cappelletta delle Gave: 446
Capri: 18, 1063–1077; helpful hints, 1068; information, 1066; maps, 1041, 1065, 1067; planning tips, 1064–1065; sights/activities, 1069–1077; tours, 962–963, 1043, 1065–1066; transportation, 1065–1066, 1067–1068, 1077
Capri Cathedral: 1076
Capri City Hall: 1076
Capri Lighthouse: 1075
Capri Town: 1066–1068, 1075–1077
Capuchin Church (Monterosso): 363
Caravaggio: 301, 310, 501; in Naples, 981, 986, 987, 995; in Rome, 825, 833, 868, 894
Carcer Tullianum Museum (Rome): 859–860
Ca’ Rezzonico (Venice): 44, 56, 75–76
Car insurance: 1196–1197
Carracci, Annibale: 994
Carrara: 456
Carriage rides, in Compatsch: 220
Car travel (driving): 1197–1201; best three-week trip, 21; distances and time, 1198, 1199; road signs, 1200, 1201. See also specific destinations
Casa Buonarroti (Florence): 505
Casa del Fauno (Pompeii): 1027–1028
Casa del Poeta Tragico (Pompeii): 1026–1027
Casa di Menandro (Pompeii): 1030
Casa Rossa (Capri): 1073–1074
Casinò, in Venice: 52
Castello (Venice): 31
Castello Banfi-Poggio alle Mura (near Montalcino): 707–708
Castello Brown (Portofino): 447
Castello di Vezio (Varenna): 241–242
Castello Doria (Porto Venere): 453
Castello Sforzesco (Milan): 284, 311–313
Castelmuzio: eating, 691, 699–700; sleeping, 673–674
Castel Nuovo (Naples): 989
Castel Roncolo (Bolzano): 196
Castelrotto: 201–214; eating, 213–214; helpful hints, 202–204; information, 202; map, 203; nightlife, 210; sights/activities, 208–210; sleeping, 210–213; transportation, 204, 214; walking tour, 204–208
Castelrotto Bell Tower: 204–205
Castelrotto Church: 205
Castelrotto Main Square: 204–206
Castelrotto Music Festival: 1207
Castel Sant’Angelo (Rome): 823, 889–890
Castel Sant’Elmo (Naples): 998–999
Castel Tasso: 228–229
Castelvecchio Museum (Verona): 173–174
Catacombs of Priscilla (Rome): 823, 895–896
Catacombs of San Gaudioso (Naples): 991
Catacombs of San Gennaro (Naples): 995–996
Cathedrals: See Duomos
Catherine of Siena, Saint: 609, 617, 623
Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (Florence): See Florence Duomo
Cattelan, Maurizio: 303
Cattolica University (Milan): 305
Cellini, Benvenuto: 480, 481, 502–503, 504
Cell (mobile) phones: 26, 1181–1884. See also Apps
Cemetery of the Fountains (Naples): 991
Central Market (Florence): 494–495, 524, 540
Cerasi Chapel (Rome): 825
Certosa di San Giacomo (Capri): 1076–1077
Certosa e Museo di San Martino (Naples): 999
“Chapel of Maradona” (Naples): 979–980
Chapel of the Incarcerated (Civita): 800
Chapel of the Madonna del Voto (Siena): 618
Chapel of the Reliquaries (Padua): 148–149
Chianti (region): 684–685; tours, 639
Chigi Chapel (Rome): 825
Chigi-Saracini Palace (Siena): 607
Christmas markets: 1207; Bolzano, 188–189
Christ of the Abyss: 449–450
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 1133; sightseeing tips, 1153. See also specific churches and cathedrals
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona (near Montalcino): 706–707
Ciampino Airport (Rome): 947
Ciappà Square (Corniglia): 395
Cicchetti, in Venice: 101–105; guided tours, 46
Cimabue, Giovanni: 499, 505, 562, 742
Cimitero delle Fontanelle (Naples): 991
Cimitero Monumentale (Milan): 285, 317
Cinque Terre: 12, 335–418; at a glance, 337; beaches, 399, 413; cards, 345–346; crowd-beating tips, 344; eating overview, 354–356; events, 340; flood and recovery, 362; helpful hints, 339–341; information, 338; maps, 336, 348–349; planning tips, 336–338; Riviera towns near, 417–458; sleeping overview, 353–354; transportation, 338–339, 341–345. See also Beaches, Cinque Terre; Hiking, Cinque Terre; and specific destinations
Cinque Terre Main Coastal Trail: 346, 349–350, 352–353, 364, 382–384; map, 348–349
Cinque Terre National Park: 338, 345–346, 347, 408, 420, 454
Circumvesuviana Train: 1008–1009; Herculaneum, 1032; map, 1009; Naples, 952, 1010; Pompeii, 1014, 1016; Sorrento, 1042, 1061–1062, 1112–1113; theft alert, 956
Civic Museums: See Museo Civico
Civita di Bagnoregio: 17, 791–802; eating, 801–802; helpful hints, 795–796; maps, 792–793, 795; sleeping, 800–801; transportation, 792–795, 802; walking tour, 796–800
Civita di Bagnoregio Church: 798–799
Civitavecchia: 948
Clare, Saint: 727, 728, 749–751; Basilica (Assisi), 729–731; biographical sketch, 730
Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 1203
Clock towers: Lucca, 580; Montalcino, 703; Montepulciano, 681; Orvieto, 766; Venice, 58, 61–62
Clothing sizes: 1214
Coffee: 1177
Col dei Rossi Belvedere: 227
Colonna del Marzocco (Montepulciano): 680
Colosseum (Rome): 822, 840–844; eating near, 922–927; map, 841; sleeping near, 907–908
Columbus, Christopher: 438, 733
Column of Phocas (Rome): 855
Column of the Immaculate Conception (Rome): 836–837
Como, Lake: 230–231, 234–235, 238–240, 241, 250, 252, 257–260; beaches, 243, 253; boat travel, 232–235, 243, 250, 253, 257–259; kayaking, 253; maps, 231, 233
Compatsch: 215–220, 221–222; map, 216–217
Constantine: 271, 858, 884, 1129, 1134; Arch of (Rome), 823, 844; Basilica of (Rome), 847–848
Consulates: 1142
Contucci Cantina (Montepulciano): 686
Cooking classes: Florence, 469, 540; Lucca, 576; Manarola, 404; Montalcino, 675; Paestum, 1123; Siena, 599; Varenna, 244; Volterra, 654
Corniglia: 337, 393–397; eating, 397; events, 340; hiking, 346–347, 350–351, 383, 394, 404; information, 394; map, 394; sleeping, 396–397; transportation, 394–395; walking tour, 395–396
Corno: 980
Corpus Domini (Orvieto): 764, 777
Correr Museum (Venice): 44, 69
Corsignano Parish Church: 698, 714
Corso (Montepulciano): 677, 680–683
Corso Cavour (Orvieto): 767; eating, 790–791
Corso Colombo (Sestri Levante): 430
Corso Como (Milan): 316
Corso il Rossellino (Pienza): 693–694
Corso Italia (Pisa): 553
Corso Italia (Sorrento): 1041, 1048–1049, 1051–1052
Corso Marconi (Santa Margherita): 439
Corso Porta Borsari (Verona): 167
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II (Rome): 829, 832
Cortina: 226–227
Costa dell’Incrociata (Siena): 612
Costs of trip: 23
Covid-19: 606, 1151; entry requirements, 25, 1141
Crete Senesi: 684–685
Cristo degli Abissi: 449–450
Crivelli, Carlo: 310
Crown of Thorns: 156–157
Cruises: See Boat travel
Cugusi Dairy Farm (Montepulciano): 688–689
Cuisine: 7–8, 1171–1176; Cinque Terre, 354–356; courses, 1166; Florentine, 7, 530–531; Lake District, 7–8; Lucca, 590; Milanese, 7, 325, 327; Naples, 8, 1001, 1004; Roman, 8, 921–922, 924–925; Tirolean, 199; Tuscan, 530–531; Venetian, 7, 100, 104–105, 108–109; Volterra, 655. See also Cooking classes; Eating; Gelato; Wine and vineyards
Curia (Pompei): 1022
Curia (Rome): 853
Currency and exchange: 1145–1148
Customs House (Venice): 57, 75
Customs regulations: 1149
D
Dante Alighieri: 140–141, 170, 481, 665, 777, 974, 1210
David (Bernini): 894
David (Michelangelo): 470, 480, 488–489, 492
Da Vinci, Leonardo: See Leonardo da Vinci
De Chirico, Giorgio: 297
Della Quercia, Jacopo: 583–584, 619, 621; Fountain of Joy, 606, 622
Della Robbia family: 488, 492–493, 510, 687, 703
Della Scala (Scaligeri) Family tombs (Verona): 170–171
De’ Ricci Cantine (Montepulciano): 687–688
Devotional Column (Verona): 166
Diamond Tower (Milan): 316
Diefenbach, Karl Wilhelm: 1076–1077
Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations
Diocesan Museum (Assisi): 729
Discounts: 1144
Doge’s Palace (Venice): 44, 58, 62, 67–69; map, 68
Dolce Vita stroll (Rome): 822, 823, 825–827; map, 826
D’Olivo (Assisi): 732
Dolomites: 15, 17, 183–229; about, 207; map, 184; planning tips, 184–185. See also specific destinations
Dominican Church (Bolzano): 193–194
Donatello: 78, 147, 618; in Florence, 478, 479, 481, 486, 488, 493, 503
Döner kebab: 115, 181, 1060, 1167
Dopolavoro La Foce: 712, 714–715
Doriforo: 970
Dorsoduro (Venice): 31, 72–76; eating, 111–112; map, 94–95; sleeping, 93, 96
Drinks: 1176–1181. See also Wine and vineyards
Driving: See Car travel; and specific destinations
Ducal Palace (Venice): 44, 67–69; map, 68
Duccio di Buoninsegna: 499, 614, 617, 620
Duomos: architecture, 1133; sightseeing tips, 1153; Florence, 470, 473, 475–476, 483–485; Milan, 282–291, 284, 293–294; Montepulciano, 687; Naples, 985–986; Orvieto, 766, 770–778; Pienza, 696, 697; Pisa, 560–563; Ravello, 1108; San Gimignano, 663–664; Siena, 603, 608–609, 615–619; Verona, 172; Volterra, 641
Durazzo Park (Santa Margherita): 440
Dying Gaul: 859
E
East Rome: 806, 897–900; map, 896–897
Eataly (Florence), 528; (Milan), 316
Eating: 1162–1176; budget, 1167–1171; ordering tips, 1166–1167; pricing, 1163–1164; restaurant phrases, 1220; seasonal produce, 1172; tipping, 1148, 1165. See also Cooking classes; Cuisine; Gelato; Markets; and specific destinations
Egyptian obelisks, in Rome: 825, 834, 871–872
Ekklesiasterion (Paestum): 1119
Electricity: 1144
Embassies: 1142
Emerald Grotto: 1088
Emergencies: 1142
Enoteca Oreste dal Zovo (Verona): 167
Environmental footprint (going green): 1141–1142
Ercolano (Herculaneum): 1032–1037; map, 1034
Eremitani (Padua): 143–144
Eremo delle Carceri (Mount Subasio): 751–752
Esino: 232
Esino River: 238
ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System): 1142
Etruscans: best sights, 651; map, 651; overview, 650–651. See also specific sights and museums
Etruscan Arch (Volterra): 639–640
Etruscan Museums: Orvieto, 779–780; Volterra, 647–649
Etruscan Necropolis (Orvieto): 781
Etruscan Tunnel (Civita): 800
Euro currency: 1146
F
Falconry shows, in Varenna: 241
Farmhouse accommodations (agriturismi): overview, 1161–1162. See also specific destinations
Farnese Collection (Naples): 964–967
Faro (Capri): 1075
Feltrinelli (Florence), 465, 542; (Milan), 277; (Naples), 957; (Padua), 128; (Siena), 599
Ferries: See Boat travel
Festa di Calendimaggio (Assisi): 721
Festa di San Francesco (Assisi): 721
Festivals: 1205–1207. See also specific destinations
Field of Miracles (Pisa): 548, 556–567; map, 557; reservations, 558–559
Films, recommended: 1211–1213
Fiordo: 1088
Firenze: See Florence
Fishing: 339, 345, 404, 440–441
Fish markets: Levanto, 420; Naples, 996; Pisa, 552, 554–555; Santa Margherita, 439; Venice, 53, 76, 115
Fiumelatte: 244
Fiumicino Airport (Rome): 945–947
Flavio Gioia: 1100
Flixbus: 634, 757–758, 945, 1194
Florence: 12, 459–546; at a glance, 470–471; eating, 523–541; excursion areas, 547–592; festivals, 1205–1207; helpful hints, 464–466; information, 461, 464; layout of, 460–461; maps, 462–463, 474, 490–491, 508–509, 514–515, 520–521, 526–527; planning tips, 459; reservations, 25, 482–483; shopping, 510–511; sights, 482–510; sightseeing tips, 464, 482–483; sleeping, 512–523; tours, 468–469, 472; transportation, 466–467, 541–546; walking tour, 472–481
Florence Duomo: 470, 473, 475, 483–485; climbing the dome, 471, 485; eating near, 528; Museum, 470, 486–488; sleeping near, 512–513; view of, 475–476
Fondaco dei Tedeschi (Venice): 37, 45, 54, 76
Fondamente Nove (Venice): eating, 114
Fontana Vecchia (Vernazza): 382
Food: See Cooking classes; Cuisine; Eating; Fish markets; Gelato; Markets; Olive oil; Panforte; Pecorino cheese; Pesto; Speck; Wine and vineyards
Foreigners’ Club (Sorrento): 1054, 1060
Fornillo Beach (Positano): 1095–1096, 1096
Foro Romano (Roman forums): Assisi, 748; Paestum, 1118; Pompeii, 1020, 1022; Rome, 822, 845–855; map, 846
Fortezza di Montalcino: 704
Fortezza Medicea (Volterra): 649, 652
Forums of Augustus and Nerva (Rome): 864, 903
Fountain of Joy (Siena): 606, 622
Four Rivers Fountain (Rome): 832–833
Framura: 418, 425; hiking, 353, 425
Francis of Assisi, Saint: 718, 727, 732, 749–752; Basilica (Assisi), 735–747; biographical sketch, 728; message of, 740–741
Frari Church (Venice): 44, 76–79
Freud, Sigmund: 194
Freudpromenade (Bolzano): 195
Funiculars: See Cable cars
Funivia del Renon (Bolzano): 194–195
G
Galileo Galilei: 136, 481, 503, 504, 555, 561–562
Galileo Galilei Airport (Pisa): 570–571
Galileo Science Museum (Florence): 470–471, 503
Galleria Alberto Sordi (Rome): 835, 900
Galleria Borbonica (Naples): 990
Galleria Borghese (Rome): 822, 891–895; map, 893
Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence): See Uffizi Gallery
Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence): See Accademia
Galleria dell’Accademia (Venice): See Accademia
Galleria Principe di Napoli (Naples): 971–972
Galleria Umberto I (Naples): 989–990, 1010
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Milan): 284, 295–296
Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanari (Vicenza): 157
Gallerie d’Italia (Milan): 285, 300–301
Gallery of Modern Art (Florence): 507
Garden of the Fugitives (Pompeii): 1031
Garibaldi, Giuseppe: 314, 359, 554, 975, 1138
Gates of Paradise (Ghiberti): 471, 476–477, 486, 487–488
Gelato: 531, 1175–1176; Bellagio, 256; Bolzano, 200; Corniglia, 395; Florence, 531, 535; Lucca, 591; Manarola, 407; Milan, 331; Montepulciano, 691; Naples, 981–982; Orvieto, 790; Padua, 154; Pienza, 699; Pisa, 554; Rome, 926, 933–934; San Gimignano, 669; Santa Margherita, 438, 443; Sestri Levante, 433; Siena, 630; Sorrento, 1060–1061; Varenna, 248; Venice, 116; Vernazza, 393; Verona, 182; Volterra, 656–657
Gentile da Fabriano: 310
Geological Museum (Civita): 798
German Exchange (Venice): 54
Gesù Church (Montepulciano): 682
Gesù Church (Rome): 869
Gesù Nuovo Church (Naples): 977, 982–983
Ghiberti, Lorenzo: 478, 486, 621; Bronze Doors (Florence), 471, 476–477, 487–488
Ghirlandaio, Domenico: 645, 663
Giacometti, Alberto: 648
Giardinetti Reali (Venice): 33, 115
Giardini di Augusto (Capri): 1076
Giardino Giusti (Verona): 175–176
Giglio Theater (Lucca): 582
Giotto di Bondone: 144, 499, 504–505, 748; Bell Tower (Florence), 471, 475, 485–486; biographical sketch, 139; St. Francis Basilica (Assisi), 735, 741–747; Scrovegni Chapel (Padua), 138–143
Gittana: eating, 247–248
Giudecca Canal (Venice): 111
Giudecca Island (Venice): 58
Giusti Garden (Verona): 175–176
Glass Museum (Murano): 80–81
Glurns: 229
Golden Altarpiece (Venice): 66–67
Gondolas, in Venice: 82–83
Government of Italy: 1127, 1140
Gran Caffè Gambrinus (Naples): 989
Gran Caffè Quadri (Venice): 73, 114
Grand Canal (Venice): 31, 37, 47–58; eating alongside, 114; map, 50–51
Gran Teatro alla Fenice (Venice): 86
Grassi Palace (Venice): 56, 75
Greco, Emilio: 771, 778; Museum (Orvieto), 778
Greek Memorial Tomb (Paestum): 1117–1118
Grödner Tal: 227
Groppo: 351
Grotta Azzurra (Capri): 1070–1071
Grotta dello Smeraldo: 1088
Guggenheim (Peggy) Collection (Venice): 44, 56–57, 74
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1202–1203; updates, 27, 1202
Guinigi Tower (Lucca): 585
Guvano Beach (Cinque Terre): 350
H
Hadrian: 833, 867, 889–890, 898, 1129
Hanging Gardens (Naples): 988
Haring, Keith: 553
Harry’s American Bar (Venice): 86
Heart of Rome walk: 827–838; map, 830–831
Hemingway, Ernest: 57, 86, 265
Herculaneum: 1032–1037; map, 1034
Hermitage (Mount Subasio): 751–752
Hiking: Alpe di Siusi, 215, 218, 221–225; Amalfi Coast, 1104–1105, 1105; Assisi, 751–752; Atrani, 1105; Capri, 1068, 1075; Cinque Terre, 345–353; at a glance, 346–347; Bonassola, 347, 352–353, 424–425; Corniglia, 346–347, 350–351, 383, 394, 404; Framura, 353, 425; guided, 348; Manarola, 346, 350–351, 402–403, 404; map, 348–349; Monterosso, 346, 347, 349–350, 352, 364, 421, 424; Riomaggiore, 347, 353, 404, 409, 413; Vernazza, 346, 349–350, 364, 382–384; Dolomites, 195–196, 201, 208–210, 212–213, 221–225; Lake Como region, 241–242, 244, 252–253, 261; Levanto, 421, 424–425; Orvieto, 781–782; Portofino, 446, 448–449; Porto Venere, 347, 352, 453; Ravello, 1109–1110; San Gimignano, 664; Sestri Levante, 430
Hill towns of central Italy: map, 597; overview, 596–597; sleeping overview, 598; transportation, 597–598. See also specific towns
History: 1125–1140; timeline, 1130–1131
Holidays: 1205–1207
Holy Rosary Church (Positano): 1093
Horse (da Vinci): 317–318
Horseback riding: 202
Horse-drawn carriage rides, in Compatsch: 220
Hospital of the Innocents (Florence): 492
Hostels: overview, 1162. See also specific destinations
Hotel Palazzo Murat (Positano): 1093–1094
Hotels: money-saving tips, 1154–1155; overview, 1155–1158; reservations, 1160–1161. See also specific destinations
Hotel zum Wolf (Castelrotto): 208, 211
House of Juliet (Verona): 168–169
House of Menander (Pompeii): 1030
House of the Faun (Pompeii): 1027–1028
House of the Tragic Poet (Pompeii): 1026–1027
House of the Vestal Virgins (Rome): 850
House of the Vettii (Pompei): 1028
I
Ice cream: See Gelato
Ice Man: 192–193
Il Campo (Siena): 594, 603, 604, 606, 612; eating, 629, 632; map, 605; sights, 612–622; sleeping, 624
Il Cimitero Monumentale (Milan): 285, 317
Imperial Forums (Rome): 822, 861–865; map, 862; self-guided tour, 862–864; sound-and-light shows, 865, 902–903
Information sources: 1142. See also specific destinations
Inter Milan: 277
Internet security: 1184
Isabella Experience (Castelmuzio): 674, 691, 699
Isola Bella (Lake Maggiore): 263, 264, 266–268
Isola Madre (Lake Maggiore): 263, 264, 268–269
Isola Superiore (Pescatori; Lake Maggiore): 263, 264, 268
Italian Parliament (Rome): 834
Italian restaurant phrases: 1220
Italian Riviera: See Cinque Terre; Riviera
Italian survival phrases: 1219
Itineraries: 19–22
J
Jewish Ghetto (Venice): 49
Jewish Quarter (Rome): 861
John Paul II, Pope: 645, 878, 1048
John XXIII, Pope: 876
Juliet’s House (Verona): 168–169
Julius Caesar: 828, 830, 848, 852, 864, 903, 1126, 1128, 1134; Temple of (Rome), 852
K
Kalvarienberg (Castelrotto): 208–209
Kastelruth: See Castelrotto
Kastelruther Spatzen-Laden (Castelrotto): 206, 208–209
Kayaking (canoeing): Cinque Terre, 342, 413–414; Lake Como, 253; Levanto, 420
Klobenstein: 194
Kloster Neustift: 228
Kornplatz (Bolzano): 189
Krausplatz (Castelrotto): 204–206
L
La Biennale (Venice): 58, 83–84
Lace, Venetian: 81
Lace Museum (Burano): 81
La Fenice Opera House (Venice): 86
La Foce Gardens: 674, 711–712, 714–715; eating and sleeping, 676, 712, 714–715
Lake Como region: 230–262; maps, 231, 233; planning tips, 231–232; transportation, 232–234
Lake District: 15, 230–270; map, 231. See also specific destinations
Lake Maggiore region: 263–270; map, 265
Lakes: See specific lakes
Language: 28; German, 187; online translation tip, 1144; restaurant phrases, 1220; survival phrases, 1219
Language barrier: 1182
Largo Argentina (Rome): 909–911
Largo Taragio (Corniglia): 396
La Rinascente: Florence, 511, 535; Milan, 319, 326; Rome, 900
La Rotonda (Positano): 1095
La Salute Church (Venice): 45, 57, 74–75
La Scala Opera House and Museum (Milan): 284, 298–300
La Spezia: 418, 454–458; map, 455
Last Supper, The (Leonardo): 284, 306–309; guided tours, 279, 282, 306; reservations, 25, 306; sleeping near, 320–321
Laubengasse (Bolzano): 189–190
Lavarello: 246
La Vena di Vino (Volterra): 649
Leaning Tower of Pisa: 556–560; map, 559; reservations, 25, 557–558
Leather, shopping for, in Florence: 505, 511
Lemon Grove Garden (Sorrento): 1052
Lenno: 259
Leonardo da Vinci: 298, 301, 302, 305, 500, 885; Horse (Milan), 317–318; The Last Supper (Milan), 279, 282, 284, 306–309
Leonardo da Vinci National Science and Technology Museum (Milan): 285, 305
Levanto: 418, 419–429; beaches, 421; eating, 427–429; helpful hints, 420–421; hiking, 347, 352–353, 364, 421, 424–425; information, 420; map, 422–423; market, 339; sights/activities, 421–425; sleeping, 425–427; transportation, 420, 429
Library of Trees (Milan): 315–316
Lifts: See Cable cars
Limoncello: 355, 1050, 1052, 1053, 1054, 1084, 1179
Linate Airport (Milan): 333
Linens, shopping for: 1096
Livorno: 546
Lodging: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Loggia dei Lanzi (Florence): 479–480, 502
Loggia della Mercanzia (Siena): 609–610
Lombardy: See Milan
Lorenzetti brothers: 613, 615, 735, 742
L.O.V.E. (Milan): 303
Lubriano: 794–795
Lucca: 17, 571–592; eating, 588–591; helpful hints, 575–576; information, 574; maps, 570, 572–573, 578; planning tips, 571; sights, 584–586; sleeping, 586–588; tours, 576–577; transportation, 574–575, 591–592; walking tour, 577–584
Lucca Cathedral Museum: 584
Lucca Classica: 575
Lucca Clock Tower: 580
Lucca Volto Santo: 575, 583, 1207
Lugano: 263
Luini, Bernardino: 302
Lungomare (Naples): 996–997
M
Machiavelli, Niccolò: 481, 504, 1209
Madonna del Voto Chapel (Siena): 618
Madonna di Montenero: 353, 413
Madonna di Reggio: 347, 364–365
Madonna di Soviore: 364
Madonna di Vitaleta Chapel: 713
MADRE (Naples): 986–987
Maggiore, Lake: 263–264; beaches, 268; boat travel, 264; map, 265
Mahlknechthütte: 224
Mail: 1185. See also Post offices
Malpensa Airport (Milan): 332–333
Mamertine Prison (Rome): 823, 859–860
Manarola: 337, 398–407; beaches, 399; eating, 406–407; events, 340; experiences, 404; hiking, 346, 350–351, 402–403, 404; information, 398; map, 400–401; sleeping, 405–406; tours, 404; transportation, 338–339, 398–399; walking tour, 399–403
Manarola Cemetery: 403
Manarola Church: 402
Manarola Harbor: 399
Manarola Vineyard Trail: 402–403
Mantegna, Andrea: 74, 174, 175, 309, 993
Maps: apps and navigation tools, 671, 1150, 1197. See also Map Index
Maradona (Diego) Chapel (Naples): 979–980
Marble Museum (Carrara): 456
Marco Polo Airport (Venice): 120–123
Maretsch Castle (Bolzano): 195
Marina di Praia: 1088
Marina di Puolo: 1054
Marina Grande (Capri): 1066, 1077; beach, 1068; map, 1067
Marina Grande (Sorrento): 1042, 1046, 1050–1051, 1053; eating, 1051, 1061; map, 1047
Marina Piccola (Sorrento): 1042, 1046, 1053, 1063
Marinzen Lift (Castelrotto): 209
Mark, Saint: See St. Mark’s Basilica
Markets: seasonal produce, 1172; Assisi, 721; Bagnoregio, 795; Bolzano, 188–189, 191, 200; Castelrotto, 204; Florence, 494–495, 496, 511, 524; Levanto, 420; Lucca, 575; Milan, 297; Montalcino, 702; Montepulciano, 678; Monterosso, 339, 357; Naples, 976, 996; Orvieto, 764; Padua, 126, 129, 132, 150; Pienza, 693; Pisa, 552, 554–555; Rome, 828, 901–902; San Gimignano, 660; Santa Margherita, 439; Santa Margherita Ligure, 339, 439; Sestri Levante, 339, 430; Siena, 599; Varenna, 238; Venice, 54, 76, 115; Vernazza, 339, 376; Verona, 167–168; Volterra, 638. See also Fish markets
Martini, Simone: 613, 614–615, 665, 742, 778–779, 995
Massages, in Cinque Terre: 357, 376
Mastrojanni (near Montalcino): 706
Maurizio Tower (Orvieto): 766
Mausoleum of Augustus (Rome): 825, 827
Meazza Stadium (Milan): 277
Medical emergencies: 1142
Medici Chapels (Florence): 470, 494
Medici Fortress and Archaeological Park (Volterra): 649, 652
Medici-Riccardi Palace (Florence): 471, 495
Memoriale della Shoah Milano: 318
Menaggio: 261–262
Mendel Haus (Castelrotto): 206
Mercato Centrale (Florence): 494–495, 524
Mercato Monti (Rome): 902
Mercato Nuovo (Florence): 496, 511
Mercato Rialto (Venice): 54, 115; eating, 102–103, 106
Mercato Trionfale (Rome): 902
Mergellina (Naples): 997
Meta Beach: 1053–1054
Metric system: 1213–1214
Metro: Milan, 277–279; Naples, 957–959; Rome, 813–815; map, 816–817
Michelangelo Buonarroti: 456, 608, 617, 682, 966, 993, 1134–1135; in Florence, 475, 476, 479, 480, 485, 488, 493–494, 501–504; David, 470, 480, 488–489, 492; guided tours, 469; House, 505; Medici Chapels, 470, 494; Tomb, 504; Uffizi Gallery, 501; Pietà Rondanini (Milan), 312–313; in Rome, 827, 829, 857–858, 860, 868, 869, 875–876, 877–878, 894; Moses, 823, 865–866; Sistine Chapel, 885–889
Milan: 15, 271–334; at a glance, 284–285; eating, 324–331; helpful hints, 276–277; information, 274; maps, 272, 280–281, 283, 322–323; planning tips, 273; vs. Rome, 274–275; shopping, 318–319; sights, 282–318; sleeping, 319–324; tours, 279, 282; transportation, 274–276, 277–279, 331–334
Milan Archaeological Museum: 304
Milan City Hall: 297
Milan Duomo: 282–291; eating near, 325–328; map, 288; Museum, 284, 291–293; orientation, 282–286, 284; rooftop, 293–294; self-guided tour, 286–291; shopping near, 319; sleeping near, 319–320
Milano Centrale: 275–276, 331; sleeping near, 321, 324
Milan Pinacoteca Ambrosiana: 284, 301–302
“Millstone Square” (Vernazza): 381–382
Minghetti, Marco: 832
Mobile phones: 26, 1181–1184. See also Apps
MoDo City Museum (Orvieto): 778–779
Monastery of San Giacomo (Capri): 1076–1077
Mondo Guide: 960, 962–963, 1009, 1018, 1043, 1065–1066, 1083
Money: 1145–1149; average daily expenses, 23; budgeting, 23. See also specific destinations
Money-saving tips: 23–24; eating, 1167–1171; sleeping, 1154–1155
Montalcino: 596, 674, 700–710, 713; eating, 709; information, 702; map, 701; sights/experiences, 703–708; sleeping, 676, 708–709; transportation, 702, 709–710; wine and wineries, 674, 704–708, 712–713
Montalcino City Hall: 703
Montalcino Fortezza: 704
Montalcino Museums: 703–704
Monte dei Paschi (Siena): 612
Monte Palatino (Rome): 810, 823, 855–856
Montepulciano: 596, 674, 676–692; eating, 690–691; helpful hints, 678, 680; information, 677–678; map, 679; sights/activities, 686–689; sleeping, 675–676, 689–690; transportation, 678, 691–692; walking tour, 680–685
Montepulciano Duomo: 687
Montepulciano Town Hall: 683
Monterosso al Mare: 337, 356–372; beach, 364; eating, 369–372; events, 340; experiences, 364–365; helpful hints, 357; hiking, 346, 347, 349–350, 352, 364, 383, 421, 424; information, 356; nightlife, 365–366; sleeping, 366–369; transportation, 338–339, 356–357, 372; walking tour, 358–363
Monterosso al Mare Cemetery: 363
Monte Solaro (Capri): 1066, 1074–1075
Monti (Rome): 806, 810, 864; eating, 922–923, 926–927; nightlife, 905; shopping, 900, 902
Monticchiello: 714, 716–717; eating, 691, 700, 717
Monumental Cemetery (Milan): 285, 317
Moscati, Giuseppe: 982
Moses (Michelangelo): 823, 865–866
Mountain lifts: See Cable cars
Mount Vesuvius: 1013, 1022, 1024, 1037–1039, 1094
Movies, recommended: 1211–1213
Munich: transportation, 119, 201, 214, 331, 943
Murano: 45, 80–81; map, 80–81; shopping, 80–81, 84–85
Musei Capitolini (Rome): 822, 858–860
Musei Civici agli Eremitani (Padua): 143–144
Musei di Montalcino: 703–704
Musei Vaticani (Rome): 807, 822, 879–889; map, 882; reservations, 880–881; self-guided tour, 882–890
Museo Amedeo Lia (La Spezia): 456
Museo Archeologico (Naples): 961–970, 971; eating near, 1005, 1007; map, 965; self-guided tour, 964–970
Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Adige (Bolzano): 192–193
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Orvieto: 779
Museobottega della Tarsialignea (Sorrento): 1052–1053
Museo Casa Rossa (Capri): 1073–1074
Museo Civico: Naples, 989; Orvieto, 779–780; Padua, 143–144; San Gimignano, 664–665; Siena, 603, 612–613
Museo Civico del Marmo (Carrara): 456
Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico (Orvieto): 779–780
Museo del Duomo (Milan): 284, 291–293
Museo della Carta (Amalfi): 1104
Museo della Cattedrale (Lucca): 584
Museo dell’Ara Pacis (Rome): 822, 827, 895
Museo delle Sinopie (Pisa): 567
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Florence): 470, 486–488
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Orvieto): 778–779
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Pisa): 567–568
Museo dell’Opera e Panorama (Siena): 603, 619–621
Museo del Novecento (Milan): 285, 295, 296–297
Museo del Parco (Portofino): 448
Museo di Capodimonte (Naples): 992–995
Museo di Castelvecchio (Verona): 173–174
Museo Diefenbach (Capri): 1076–1077
Museo Diocesano (Assisi): 729
Museo di San Marco (Florence): 470, 493
Museo Emilio Greco (Orvieto): 778
Museo Etrusco Guarnacci (Volterra): 647–649
Museo Galilei (Florence): 503
Museo Galilei e Istituto di Storia della Scienza (Florence): 470–471
Museo Geologico (Civita): 798
Museo Missionario Indios (Assisi): 734
Museo Naturalistico Archeologico (Vicenza): 157
Museo Nazionale del Bargello (Florence): 470, 503–504
Museo Nazionale della Scienza e Tecnica “Leonardo da Vinci” (Milan): 285, 305
Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (Rome): 822, 897–898
Museo Pietà Rondanini (Milan): 312–313
Museums: reservations, advance tickets, and passes, 1151–1152; sightseeing tips, 1150–1153. See also specific museums
Museum of Ancient Art (Milan): 313
Museum of Costume and Fashion (Florence): 507
Museum of Inlaid Wood (Sorrento): 1052–1053
Museum of San Marco (Florence): 470, 493
Museum of the Innocents (Florence): 492–493
Museum of the Risorgimento: Milan, 285, 310; Padua, 135
Museum of the Sinopias (Pisa): 567
Music: See Opera
Musica a Palazzo (Venice): 86
Music on the Rocks (Positano): 1095, 1097
Mussolini, Benito: 183, 187, 267, 272, 294, 295, 302, 860, 864, 976, 1135, 1138–1139
N
Naples: 18, 949–1012; eating, 1001–1010; helpful hints, 956–957; history of, 978–979; information, 952; maps, 954–955, 958–959, 1002–1003; planning tips, 951; sights, 961–999; sleeping, 1000–1001; tours, 960–961, 962–963; transportation, 952–953, 957–960, 1008–1009, 1010–1012; walking tours, 971–982
Naples Archaeological Museum: 961–970, 971; eating near, 1005, 1007; map, 965; self-guided tour, 964–970
Naples Centrale Station: 952–953; eating, 1004, 1007, 1010; sleeping near, 1001
Naples Civic Museum: 989
Naples Duomo: 985–986
Naples Hanging Gardens: 988
Naples International Airport: 1011–1012, 1062
Napoli Sotterranea: 981, 984–985
National Archaeological Museum of Orvieto: 779
National Museum of Rome: 822, 897–898
Naval Museum (Naples): 999
Naviglio Grande (Milan): 285, 316–317; eating, 330–331
Necropoli Etrusca di Crocifisso del Tufo (Orvieto): 781
Nerva: 864
New Bolzano: 195
Nightlife: See Opera; and specific destinations
North Rome: 806, 890–896; eating, 935–936; map, 891; nightlife, 905
Nuova Bolzano: 195
O
Oberbozen: 194–195
Obstplatz (Bolzano): 188, 191, 200
Olive oil: 244, 378, 603, 708, 751, 755, 783, 786, 787, 788
Oltrarno (Florence): 461, 506–510; eating, 536–540; maps, 508–509, 520–521; nightlife, 538; shopping, 511; sleeping, 521–523
Olympic Theater (Vicenza): 156
Opera: Lucca, 582; Milan, 284–285, 298–300; Naples, 989; Rome, 904; Venice, 86; Vernazza, 385; Verona, 162–163
Oratorio dei Pellegrini (Assisi): 734
Oratory of St. George (Padua): 149–150
Oratory of Santa Caterina (Corniglia): 396
Oratory of Sant’Erasmo (Santa Margherita): 439
Oratory of the Dead (Monterosso): 361–362
Orsanmichele Church (Florence): 478–479, 495–496
Orto Botanico (Padua): 150–151
Orvieto: 17, 760–791; eating, 788–791; helpful hints, 764–765; history of, 761; information, 762; maps, 762–763, 768–769, 784–785; nightlife, 765; sights/activities, 770–783; sleeping, 783–788; tours, 765–766; transportation, 763–764, 791; walking tour, 766–770
Orvieto City Hall: 767
Orvieto Classico: 759, 782–783, 1180
Orvieto Duomo: 766, 770–778; map, 772; Museum, 778–779
Orvieto National Archaeological Museum: 779
Ospedale degli Innocenti (Florence): 492
Oswald-von-Wolkenstein Riding Tournament (Castelrotto): 203–204
Ötzi the Iceman: 192–193
P
Packing tips and checklist: 26, 1217
Padua: 125–155; eating, 152–154; helpful hints, 128; information, 126; maps, 127, 130–131; planning tips, 126; sights, 129–151; sleeping, 151–152; transportation, 126, 128–129, 154–155
Padua Botanic Garden: 150–151
Padua Civic Museums: 143–144
Padua University: 125, 135–137
Paestum: 18, 1111–1124; eating, 1123–1124; map, 1115; sights, 1114–1122; sleeping, 1122–1123; transportation, 1111–1113
Paestum Archaeological Museum: 1114, 1120–1122
Paestum Archaeological Site: 1115–1119; map, 1115
Palace of Tiberius (Rome): 850
Palatine Hill (Rome): 810, 823, 855–856
Palazzi Papali (Orvieto): 778–779
Palazzo Balbi (Venice): 55
Palazzo Bò (Padua): 135–136
Palazzo Chigi-Saracini (Siena): 607
Palazzo Comunale (Montepulciano): 683
Palazzo Correale (Sorrento): 1048
Palazzo Dario (Venice): 57
Palazzo Davanzati (Florence): 496–497
Palazzo dei Conservatori (Rome): 858
Palazzo dei Priori (Volterra): 640
Palazzo del Comune (Assisi): 732–733
Palazzo della Ragione (Padua): 132–134
Palazzo della Ragione (Verona): 170
Palazzo del Popolo (Orvieto): 767, 791
Palazzo di Propaganda Fide (Rome): 836
Palazzo Ducale (Venice): 44, 67–69; map, 68
Palazzo Filippeschi (Orvieto): 769–770
Palazzo Grassi (Venice): 56, 75
Palazzo Grimani (Venice): 55
Palazzo Leoni Montanari Galleries (Vicenza): 157
Palazzo Madama (Rome): 833
Palazzo Massimo (Rome): 822, 897–898
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (Florence): 471, 495
Palazzo Nuovo (Rome): 859
Palazzo Papadopoli (Venice): 55
Palazzo Piccolomini (Pienza): 697
Palazzo Pitti (Florence): 470, 506–507
Palazzo Reale (Milan): 291–293, 295
Palazzo Reale (Naples): 987–988
Palazzo Ricci (Montepulciano): 687–688
Palazzo Valentini (Rome): 823, 865
Palazzo Vecchio (Florence): 470, 479, 501–502
Palazzo Viti (Volterra): 644–645
Palazzo Zuckermann (Padua): 144
Paleo-Christian Baptistery of San Giovanni (Milan): 290–291
Palio di Siena: 604, 610–611, 623, 1206
Palladio, Andrea: 71, 124, 155, 156, 157–158
Panorama del Facciatone (Siena): 620–621
Pantheon (Rome): 822, 833, 866–868; eating near, 931–933; gelato, 933–934; map, 866; sleeping near, 911
Pantheon neighborhood (Rome): 806, 866–869; eating, 927–933; maps, 830–831, 866, 928–929; sleeping, 909–911; walking tour, 833–838
Papal audiences: 880–881
Paper Museum (Amalfi): 1102, 1104
Parco Archeologico (Volterra): 649, 652
Parco delle Grotte (Orvietto): 765
Parco di Portofino: 446
Parco di Villa Durazzo (Santa Margherita): 440
Parco Sempione (Milan): 313–314
Pasquino (Rome): 832
Passeggiata: 173, 903, 996–997, 1051–1052
Passo dello Stelvio: 229
Passo di Sella: 227
Pasta: overview, 1171–1173
Pazzi Chapel (Florence): 470, 504–505
Pecorino cheese: 530, 681, 688–689, 693, 694, 1175
Peggy Guggenheim Collection (Venice): 44, 56–57, 74
Pellegrinaio Hall (Siena): 622
Peretola Airport (Florence): 545–546
Perugia/Assisi Airport: 758
Pflegerhof Herb Farm (Seis): 210
Phones: 1181–1184
Piano, Renzo: 903–904
Piazza Aldo Moro (Sestri Levante): 430
Piazza Antelminelli (Lucca): 575, 584
Piazza Bellini (Naples): 973–974
Piazza Brà (Verona): 159, 163–164; eating, 177, 178, 180; sleeping, 177
Piazza Cadorna (Stresa): 266
Piazza Capellini (Manarola): 399
Piazza Capranica (Rome): 834
Piazza Caprera (Santa Margherita): 436–437
Piazza Carità (Naples): 976–977
Piazza Citadella (Lucca): 582
Piazza Colonna (Rome): 835
Piazza Dante (Naples): 974
Piazza degli Affari (Milan): 302–303
Piazza dei Cavalieri (Pisa): 555–556
Piazza dei Mercanti (Milan): 285, 295, 297–298
Piazza dei Mulini (Positano): 1093
Piazza dei Priori (Volterra): 637, 638, 639, 652
Piazza dei Signori (Padua): 133, 134, 153
Piazza dei Signori (Verona): 169–170
Piazza dei Signori (Vicenza): 157
Piazza del Campidoglio (Rome): 823, 857–858
Piazza del Carmine (Florence): 538
Piazza del Duomo (Milan): 285, 294–295
Piazza del Duomo (Orvieto): 766
Piazza del Duomo (San Gimignano): 662–663
Piazza del Duomo (Siena): 608
Piazza del Giglio (Lucca): 582
Piazza del Grano (Bolzano): 189
Piazza della Chiesa (Bellagio): 252, 256
Piazza della Cisterna (San Gimignano): 661
Piazza della Frutta (Padua): 129, 132, 153
Piazza della Madonna dei Monti (Rome): 810, 905, 922, 926
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro (Lucca): 577, 579
Piazza della Repubblica (Florence): 477–478, 496
Piazza della Repubblica (Orvieto): 767
Piazza della Scala (Milan): 298
Piazza della Signoria (Florence): 479, 497; eating, 529, 532; sleeping near, 517–518
Piazza delle Coppelle (Rome): 902
Piazza delle Erbe (Padua): 129, 132, 154
Piazza delle Sorgenti (Bagno Vignoni): 715
Piazza delle Vettovaglie (Pisa): 552, 554–555
Piazza del Plebiscito (Naples): 975, 987
Piazza del Popolo (Levanto): 421
Piazza del Popolo (Montalcino): 704
Piazza del Popolo (Rome): 825
Piazza di Montecitorio (Rome): 834
Piazza di Pietra (Rome): 834
Piazza di Santo Spirito (Florence): 461, 521–522, 537–538
Piazza di Spagna (Rome): 837, 900
Piazza Duomo (Ravello): 1108
Piazza Erbe (Bolzano): 188, 191, 200
Piazza Erbe (Verona): 159, 167–168; eating, 178–181; sleeping, 176
Piazza Farnese (Rome): 829
Piazza Flavio Gioia (Positano): 1094
Piazza Gae Aulenti (Milan): 315
Piazza Garibaldi (Montalcino): 702
Piazza Garibaldi (Monterosso): 359
Piazza Garibaldi (Pisa): 554
Piazza Gesù Nuovo (Naples): 977
Piazza Grande (Montepulciano): 683–684
Piazza Indipendenza (Siena): 609
Piazzale Michelangelo (Florence): 461, 471, 507–510
Piazza Marconi (Vernazza): 380
Piazza Matteotti (Sestri Levante): 430
Piazza Mazzini (Santa Margherita): 438
Piazza Napoleone (Lucca): 582
Piazza Navona (Rome): 810, 832–833; eating near, 930–931
Piazza Pio II (Pienza): 695–697
Piazza Prato della Valle (Padua): 150
Piazza Risorgimento (Rome): 934–935
Piazza Salimbeni (Siena): 612
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore (Naples): 977–978
Piazza San Giorgio (Varenna): 240
Piazza San Marco (Venice): See St. Mark’s Square
Piazza San Michele (Lucca): 581, 590–591
Piazza Santissima Annunziata (Florence): 471, 492–493, 532
Piazza Sette Settembre (Naples): 975
Piazza Tasso (Sorrento): 1041, 1045–1048
Piazza Tolomei (Siena): 611–612
Piazza Umberto I (Capri): 1075–1076
Piazza Venezia (Rome): 860–861; map, 859
Piazza Vignaioli (Riomaggiore): 412
Piazza Vittoria (Capri): 1072, 1074
Piazza Vittoria (Naples): 997
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II (Pisa): 552–553
Piazza Walther (Bolzano): 188–189
Piccolomini Altar (Siena): 617
Piccolomini Library (Siena): 619
Piccolomini Palace (Pienza): 697
Picnics (picnicking): 1170–1171. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Pienza: 674, 692–700, 713; eating, 698–700; helpful hints, 693; information, 693; map, 694–695; sights, 693–698; sleeping, 673–675; transportation, 693
Pienza City Hall: 696
Piero della Francesca: 310, 499–500
Pietà (Michelangelo): 877–878
Pietà Rondanini (Michelangelo): 312–313
Pieve di Corsignano: 698
Pinacoteca: Assisi, 748; Padua, 143–144; Rome, 895; San Gimignano, 664–665; Siena, 603, 614–615; Volterra, 645
Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (Milan): 284, 301–302
Pinacoteca di Brera (Milan): 284, 309–310
Pio Monte della Misericordia Church (Naples): 981, 986
Pisa: 17, 548–571; eating, 568–569; helpful hints, 552; information, 549; maps, 550, 557, 570; planning tips, 548; sights, 556–567; sleeping, 567–568; transportation, 549, 551–552, 569–571; walking tour, 552–556
Pisa Duomo: 560–563; Museum, 567–568
Pisa Leaning Tower: 556–560; map, 559; reservations, 25, 557–558
Pisano family: 144, 553, 560, 562, 563, 564–567, 608, 617–618
Pitti Palace (Florence): 470, 506–507
Pius II, Pope: 619, 692, 694–698
Pizza (pizzerias): 1004, 1167–1168, 1171; Naples, 981–982, 1004–1005; Roman, 925. See also specific destinations
Poldi Pezzoli Museum (Milan): 285, 310–311
Pompeii: 18, 1013–1031; backgorund, 1019; eating, 1018–1019; maps, 1014, 1016–1017, 1021; orientation, 1016–1019; self-guided tour, 1019–1031; tours, 962–963, 1018; transportation, 1014–1016
Ponte di Mezzo (Pisa): 553–554
Ponte Pietra (Verona): 171–172
Ponte Scaligero (Verona): 174
Ponte Vecchio (Florence): 471, 481, 502–503; eating with a view, 536–537; sleeping near, 518–519
Pontone: 1105
Population of Italy: 1127
Porcelain Museum (Florence): 507
Pordoi Pass: 226–227
Porta all’Arco (Volterra): 639–640
Porta al Prato (Montepulciano): 680
Porta Borsari (Verona): 167
Porta dei Borghi (Lucca): 589
Porta Garibaldi (Milan): 276, 316, 332
Port’Alba (Naples): 974
Porta Marina (Pompei): 1020
Porta Nolana Open-Air Fish Market (Naples): 996
Porta Nuova (Milan): 284, 314–316
Porta Perlici (Assisi): 725
Porta Portese (Rome): 901
Porta San Giovanni (San Gimignano): 660–661
Porta Santa Maria (Civita): 796
Porto del Cielo (Siena): 621–622
Portofino: 418, 441, 444–451; map, 445
Porto Venere: 418, 451–453; hiking, 347, 352, 453; map, 452
Porziuncola Chapel (Assisi): 749–750
Porziuncola Museum (Assisi): 750
Posillipo Hill (Naples): 997
Positano: 1084–1085, 1089–1099; eating, 1098–1099; information, 1091; map, 1090–1091; nightlife, 1097; shopping, 1096–1097; sights/activities, 1096–1097; sleeping, 1097–1098; tours, 1091–1092; transportation, 1092; walking tour, 1093–1096
Post offices: 1185; Vatican City, 880, 883. See also specific destinations
Pozzo della Cava (Orvieto): 767–769, 781
Pozzo di San Patrizio (Orvieto): 780–781
Prato della Valle (Padua): 150
Priscilla, Catacombs of (Rome): 823, 895–896
Puccini, Giacomo: 299, 575, 582, 583; House (Lucca), 585–586
Punta Bonfiglio (Manarola): 403
Punta del Capo: 1054
Punta della Dogana (Venice): 45, 75
Punta Mesco: 347, 358–359, 424
Punta Spartivento: 252, 256, 258
Q
Quadrilateral (Milan): 318–319
Quattro Cantoni (Siena): 607
Quercia, Jacopo della: See Della Quercia, Jacopo
R
Rail passes: 23, 1191, 1192, 1202
Rail travel: See Train travel; and specific destinations
Ramaio Cesare (Montepulciano): 686–687
Raphael: 301–302, 310, 501, 506, 825, 868, 877, 993; Rooms (Vatican), 884–885
Ravello Duomo: 1108
Ravello Festival: 1109
Red House Museum (Capri): 1073–1074
Reggio: events, 340; hiking, 347, 364, 383–384
Reifenstein Castle: 228–229
Renaissance: overview, 472–473, 1134–1135; walking tour, in Florence, 472–481. See also specific artists
Rental properties: 1156–1157, 1159–1160
Resources from Rick Steves: 1202–1203
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Rialto Bridge (Venice): 37, 44, 54, 76; eating near, 100–107; map, 94–95; sleeping near, 92–93
Rialto market (Venice): 54, 76, 115; eating, 102–103, 106
Rifugio Belvedere: 227
Rifugio Viel del Pan: 227
Rinascente: See La Rinascente
Riomaggiore: 337, 408–416; beaches, 413; eating, 415–416; events, 340; experiences, 413–414; helpful hints, 408–409; hiking, 347, 353, 404, 409, 413; information, 408; map, 410–411; nightlife, 414; sleeping, 414–415; transportation, 338–339, 408; walking tour, 409–413
Riomaggiore Castle: 409
Riomaggiore City Hall: 409
Riomaggiore Harbor: 408, 409, 412–413; eating, 415
Risorgimento: overview, 1136–1138
Risorgimento Museums: Milan, 285, 310; Padua, 135
Ritten, the: 194–195
Riva de Biasio (Venice): 49, 52
Riviera: 17, 417–458; at a glance, 418; home base, 417–418; map, 419. See also Cinque Terre
Rivoire Café (Florence): 529
Rocca (San Gimignano): 664
Rocca di Tentennano: 716
Rocca Maggiore (Assisi): 720, 725, 748
Rocca Minore (Assisi): 725
“Rodeo Drive” (Capri): 1076
Roman amphitheaters: See Amphitheaters
Roman forums: See Foro Romano
Roman House at Palazzo Valentini (Rome): 823, 865
Roman numerals: 1214
Roman theaters: See Teatro Romano
Rome: 14, 803–948; at a glance, 822–823; eating, 921–941; embassies, 1142; helpful hints, 807, 810–812; information, 806–807; layout of, 805–806; vs. Milan, 274–275; nightlife, 902–905; planning tips, 804; reservations, 26, 807, 812; shopping, 900–902; sights, 838–900; sightseeing tips, 807, 812–813, 838–839; sleeping, 905–920; tours, 820–821, 824, 932; transportation, 812–820, 941–948; walking tours, 825–838. See also specific neighborhoods
Rome, ancient: See Ancient Rome
Rome Auditorium: 903–904
Rome from the Sky elevator: 823, 860–861
Romeo and Juliet, in Verona: 158, 168–169
Rome Termini Station: See Termini Station
Romulus: 296, 851, 858, 1125, 1134
Rossellino, Bernardo: 693–694, 695–696
Rosso di Montalcino: 531, 707, 1180–1181
Rosticceries: 1169
Rostrum (Rome): 853
Royal Palace (Milan): 291–293, 295
Royal Palace (Naples): 987–988
Runkelstein Castle (Bolzano): 196
Running Park Seiser Alm: 225
Rupe (Orvieto): 781–782