Nightlife in Athens — Rick Steves Greece (7th Ed, 2023)

Athens is a thriving city...and the Athenians know how to have a good time after hours. I’ve provided some ideas for how to spend an evening, from folk performances to outdoor movies, enjoying rooftop cocktails, or simply strolling around and finding a scene that appeals to you.

Athens is most inviting from May through October (aside from miserably hot August), when al fresco activities such as outdoor cinema, festivals (including the Athens & Epidavros Festival), folk-dancing shows at Dora Stratou Theater, and outdoor sidewalk cafés and bars are in full swing.

In the heat of summer, some clubs close down to relocate to outdoor venues on the coast. In the winter, your options are limited to indoor venues (concerts and other performances). But folk musicians, who tend to spend their summers in small towns and islands, hibernate in Athens in winter—offering ample opportunities to hear traditional music. A number of tavernas feature live music and dancing locals year-round, providing a wonderful setting for a late dinner.

Events Listings: Athens has a constantly rotating schedule of cultural activities, such as concerts to suit every audience. For local events, look for publications such as the English-language version of the daily newspaper Kathimerini (www.ekathimerini.com).

PERFORMANCES

Festivals

Athens’ biggest party is the Athens & Epidavros Festival, held every June and July. The festival’s highlights are its world-class performances of dance, music, and theater at the ancient Odeon of Herodes Atticus, nestled spectacularly below the floodlit Acropolis. Outdoor performances at other venues enliven the already hopping city. Performances also take place at the famous Theater of Epidavros on the Peloponnese (these extend into August). Tickets go on sale from late April to early May. You can buy them online, over the phone, and at the festival box office (closed Sun, in the arcade at Panepistimiou 39, opposite the National Library, +30 210 893 8112, http://aefestival.gr). Same-day tickets are also sold at the theater box office.

Folk Dancing

The Dora Stratou Theater on Filopappos Hill is the place to see authentic folk dancing. The theater company—the best in Greece—was originally formed to record and preserve the country’s many traditional dances. Performances rotate, but their repertoire includes such favorites as the graceful kalamatianos circle dance, the syrtaki (famously immortalized by Anthony Quinn in Zorba the Greek), and the dramatic solo zimbetikos (€15, 1.5-hour performances run June-late Sept, generally Fri-Sun at 21:30, no shows Mon-Thu, morning +30 210 324 4395, evening +30 210 921 4650, www.grdance.org). The theater is on the south side of Filopappos Hill. If you’re taking the Metro, get off at Petralona (10-minute walk) rather than the farther Akropoli stop (20-minute walk). To walk to the theater from below the Acropolis, figure at least 20 minutes (entirely around the base of Filopappos Hill, signposted from western end of Dionysiou Areopagitou).

Outdoor Cinema

Athens has a wonderful tradition of outdoor movies. Screenings take place most nights in summer (around €10, roughly June-Sept, sometimes in May and Oct depending on weather; shows start around 20:00 or 21:00, depending on when the sun sets; many offer a second, later showing). Drinks are served at these “theaters,” which are actually compact open-air courtyards with folding chairs. Movies typically are shown in their original language, with Greek subtitles (though children’s movies might be dubbed in Greek). Of Athens’ many outdoor-cinema venues, these are particularly well-known, convenient, and atmospheric. Call or check online to see what’s playing.

Aegli Summer Cinema is a cool, classic outdoor theater in the National Garden (at the Zappeion), playing the latest blockbusters with a great sound system (+30 210 336 9369).

Cine Paris, in the Plaka, shows movies on the roof with Acropolis views (overlooking Filomousou Square at Kidathineon 22, +30 210 322 2071, www.cineparis.gr).

Cine Theseion, along the Apostolou Pavlou pedestrian drag in the Thissio neighborhood, enjoys grand floodlit Acropolis views from some of its seats—one of the reasons it was voted the “best outdoor cinema in the world.” It shows both classic and current movies (Apostolou Pavlou 7, +30 210 347 0980 or +33 210 342 0864, www.cine-thisio.gr).

Other Outdoor Venues

The rebuilt ancient theater at the foot of the Acropolis, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus occasionally hosts concerts under the stars. The theater atop Lykavittos Hill is another outdoor favorite (currently under renovation but may reopen by the time you visit—check locally). Both of these are used in summer for the Athens & Epidavros Festival.

STROLLING AFTER DARK

Apostolou Pavlou Promenade and Thissio Neighborhood

A peaceful pedestrian lane circles the Acropolis, providing locals and visitors alike a delightful place for an evening stroll. This promenade is what I call the “Acropolis Loop” (consisting of Dionysiou Areopagitou to the south and Apostolou Pavlou to the west).

The promenade cuts through the Thissio district, just beyond the Agora, where the tables and couches of clubs and cocktail bars clog the pedestrian lanes under the Acropolis. More upscale than the Plaka, Thissio gives you an easy escape from the tired tourism of that zone. Thissio is basically composed of three or four streets running into Apostolou Pavlou (part of the “Acropolis Loop”). Iraklidon street is a tight lane with people socializing at café tables squeezed under trees. Akamantos street, while still colorful, is a bit more sedate. Backgammon boards chatter, TVs blare the latest sporting events, and young Athenians sip their iced coffees en masse. As the sun sets and the floodlit temples of the Acropolis ornament the horizon, you understand why this quiet and breezy corner is such a hit with locals enjoying an evening out.

Come here just to stroll through a fine café scene, enjoy dinner or a drink and some great people-watching, or see a movie under the stars (at Cine Theseion, listed earlier).

To reach Thissio, walk the pedestrian lane around the Acropolis from either end. It makes a wonderful destination after the more peaceful stretch from the Acropolis Museum (Metro: Akropoli). Or ride the Metro to Thissio, then follow the crowds uphill along the broad Apostolou Pavlou walkway toward the Acropolis. For more details about this main drag, see here.

BARS, CAFÉS, AND LATE-NIGHT SPOTS

Athens abounds with bars and cafés serving drinks in lively and atmospheric settings (including on rooftops boasting grand views). I’ve listed a few good areas to explore. Note that although bars are supposed to be nonsmoking, many places don’t adhere to this rule. Expect to leave most bars smelling of smoke.

In the Center

Plaka: Although the Plaka is jammed full of tourists and few locals, it couldn’t be more central or user-friendly, with live traditional music spilling out of seemingly every other taverna. One pleasant area to explore is the stepped lane called Mnisikleous (some of my restaurant recommendations in this area have live music; see the Eating in Athens chapter).

Brettos—the oldest distillery in Athens, dating from 1909—is a popular stop for tourists and locals wanting to taste various shots and wines by the glass. While buried in the Plaka kitsch, it seems a world apart once you step inside and grab a stool under huge old casks and lit-up bottles of colorful liquors (daily 10:00-24:00, just off Adrianou at Kydathineon 41, +30 210 323 2100).

For drinks, I also enjoy the following wine bars: By the Glass (near the National Garden) and Heteroclito (near the cathedral). Both serve good food (for full descriptions, see the end of the Eating in Athens chapter).

Monastiraki: Right on Monastiraki Square, several rooftop bars offer some of the best views of the city. Couleur Locale, tucked inside the Monastiraki flea market, is one popular perch (see “Rooftop Bars,” later).

Next door to Couleur Locale, the TAF Art Foundation is a hidden garden café and bar in one of Athens’ oldest houses. Nine families once lived around this communal courtyard, where you can relax with a coffee by day or join artsy Athenians for drinks after dark (daily 10:30-24:00, Normanou 5, +30 210 323 8757).

Adrianou Street: This street just north of the Agora has a line of inviting restaurants and cafés with outdoor seating—some with spectacular Acropolis views and all good for a drink. For something completely un-Greek, head a few blocks away to James Joyce Irish Pub to drink a pint of your favorite Irish brew (Astiggos 12, +30 210 323 5055).

Psyrri

Northeast of Monastiraki Square, the center of this seedy-chic district is Iroon Square, with several cute bar/cafés spilling into the square under a jolly mural. Nearby Lepeniotou and Esopou streets are fun for their creatively decorated places. You can get your bearings by doing my Psyrri and Central Market Walk. For dining recommendations, see the Eating in Athens chapter.

Juan Rodriguez, a block off Athinas, is a noisy Art Deco/Roaring ’20s-style bar packed with locals—it’s often “standing-room” only (Pallados 3, +30 210 322 4496).

Near St. Irene Square: The square surrounding the Church of St. Irene, across busy Athinas street just east of Psyrri, offers one of the most delightful wine-and-coffee scenes in the center. Day or night you’ll find the place filled with locals enjoying stylish, modern bar/cafés and classy ambience. The streets that peel off from the square are largely traffic-free and lined with more inviting places. Consider Six D.o.g.s bar, hiding down some stairs in a nondescript alley, with a sunken courtyard and seating on multilevel terraces (tropical cocktails, Avramioutou 6, +30 210 321 0510).

Around Kolokotroni and Praxitelous Streets

These lively streets, north of Syntagma and Monastiraki, offer a mix of open-air courtyards, high-end cocktails, contemporary charm, and classic dive-bar atmosphere.

On and near Kolokotroni: On a lively square lined with outdoor tables, Noel is busy and festive year-round (Kolokotroni 59, +30 211 215 9534). Next door, Booze Bar is a time-warp, ’90s-era dive with chess boards, vinyl picnic furniture, and lots of decorative chickens (Kolokotroni 57, +30 211 405 3733). Baba au Rum, wedged on a tiny street nearby, serves seriously good cocktails (Klitiou 6, +30 211 710 9140).

Across from a branch of the city college, Drunk Sinatra is where retro chic meets burlesque (Thiseos 16, +30 210-331-3733). Around the corner, Bartesera occupies a traditional Athenian arcade and offers a standard cocktail menu, a covered patio, and Konstantinos the dog (Kolokotroni 25, +30 210 322 09805).

Closer to Syntagma Square, several bars pepper the streets around the Old Parliament building (just off Stadiou). This area offers a quieter, darker feel, and serves a more professional clientele. The recommended Black Duck Garden restaurant is a good option here (by the Museum of the City of Athens—see listing on here).

On Praxitelous: There’s a good reason The Clumsies tops all the “best of” lists. Its creatively crafted cocktails are works of liquid art, the space is contemporary casual, and the atmosphere is just loud enough to let loose without having to shout. If you’re overwhelmed by the menu, try the cocktail sampler (four half-size cocktails-€20, open daily 18:00-22:00, brunch menu until 18:00, above-average bar food, Praxitelous 30, +30 210 323 2682).

Rooftop Bars

A touristy-yet-appealing way to spend an evening is at one of Athens’ many rooftop bars, all with views of floodlit monuments.

Plaka/Syntagma: For a great view and overpriced cocktails, visit the recommended rooftop restaurant and bar of the Hotel Grande Bretagne, across the street from Syntagma Square. There are also several rooftop bars at hotels near the Acropolis Museum, including the Sense Restaurant, on top of the Athenswas Hotel (Dionysiou Areopagitou 5), and the Point α Bar at the Herodion Hotel (Rovertou Galli 4). You’ll be in the company of other tourists, and views are less impressive, as you’re looking at the backside of the Acropolis, but these spots are convenient to some of my recommended accommodations in Makrigianni and Koukaki.

Monastiraki: The rooftop of the A for Athens hotel is popular with both locals and tourists who come to gawk at its views. Thanks to its prime spot on Monastiraki Square, it offers a dramatic vantage point of the Acropolis looming above the city. If this place is too crowded, try the 360 Cocktail Bar on the same square (but with less impressive panoramas).

Next door to the Monastiraki flea market, Couleur Locale (listed earlier, under “In the Center”) has a getaway rooftop bar and third-floor terrace—both with good coffee, fancy cocktails, Acropolis views, and a hip, indoor greenhouse ambience (daily 10:00-late, also a restaurant, Normanou 3, +30 216 700 4917).

Thissio: If strolling the pedestrian promenade through Thissio, consider a stop at the Thissio View restaurant and bar (Apostolou Pavlou 25).