SLEEPING IN ATHENS
MAKRIGIANNI AND KOUKAKI, BEHIND THE ACROPOLIS
Map: Makrigianni & Koukaki Hotels & Restaurants
Athens’ central core (the Plaka, Syntagma, and Monastiraki) includes big, fancy, business-class hotels, but small, inexpensive guesthouses are relatively scarce and overbooked. For more options, expand your search beyond the old center. The lively Psyrri district is worth considering, as it’s close to the center, stuffed with enticing food options—from tavernas to a thriving market—and near many major sights. I’ve also found a few gems in the Makrigianni and Koukaki neighborhoods, behind the Acropolis and a short walk from the Plaka action. These offer a less touristy experience and slightly lower prices.
The accommodations listed here cluster around the €110-150 range but include everything from €40 bunks to deluxe doubles at €350 and up. In general, temper your expectations. Athenian buildings are often cheaply constructed, with well-worn public spaces and temperamental plumbing and elevators. A welcoming front-desk staff can help compensate, but be ready for hiccups. Any hotel charging less than about €100 may include a few quirks. Spending just €20-30 extra is enough to buy you a much higher degree of comfort. If you’re even a little high maintenance (be honest), consider splurging here. If you want an Acropolis-view room, you’ll usually pay more. Budget travelers: Don’t be sucked in by very cheap, too-good-to-be-true deals (most of those hotels are in sleazy districts around Omonia Square, or down in the coastal suburbs of Glyfada and Voula).
Athens is a noisy city, and Athenians like to stay out late. This, combined with flimsy hotel construction and heavy traffic on city streets, can make things challenging for light sleepers. I’ve tried to recommend places in quieter areas, but finding a peaceful corner isn’t always possible (be ready to use earplugs).
For some travelers, short-term, Airbnb-type rentals can be a good alternative; search for places in my recommended hotel neighborhoods. You can often find a well-equipped, spacious, centrally located apartment for less than the cost of a midrange hotel room. Given the hit-or-miss quality of Athenian hotels, a carefully chosen apartment can be an excellent value.
I rank accommodations from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For the best deal, contact smaller hotels directly by phone or email. When you book direct, the owner avoids a commission and may be able to offer a discount. Book well in advance for peak season or if your trip coincides with a major holiday or festival (see the appendix).
For details on reservations, short-term rentals, and more, see the “Sleeping” section in the Practicalities chapter.
HOTELS IN THE CENTER
Sleeping in the central Plaka, Syntagma, and Monastiraki area offers proximity to the sights (you’ll rarely need public transportation). It can be more congested and more touristy than outlying neighborhoods, but in general, the pluses of sleeping in this zone outweigh the minuses.
Boutique and Business Class
$$$$ Central Hotel has 84 cookie-cutter rooms, sleek public spaces, and an anonymous business-class vibe. The several classes of rooms are priced based on whether they have balconies and/or views. If you stick with the cheaper rooms, it’s a good value at the low end of this price range (elevator, swanky rooftop terrace with bar and restaurant, Apollonos 21, +30 210 323 4357, www.centralhotel.gr, reservation@centralhotel.gr).
$$$$ InnAthens feels urban and urbane. It sits at the edge of the Plaka—a bit less convenient than the others I list here—with 37 industrial-mod rooms ringing an atrium, and a recommended wine bar on the premises (elevator, Souri 3 at intersection with busy Filellinon, +30 210 325 8555, www.innathens.com, info@innathens.com).
$$$$ Hotel Plaka, buried on an urban street in the busy heart of town, has a rooftop bar/restaurant and 67 modern rooms (some with Acropolis views) with updated bathrooms. Its classy management adds some nice touches, such as a staff member on hand at breakfast to answer travel questions (RS%, elevator, at the corner of Mitropoleos and Kapnikarea, reservation +30 210 322 2706, reception +30 210 322 2096, www.plakahotel.gr, plaka@athenshotelsgroup.com).
$$$$ The Zillers is a conveniently located boutique hotel facing the cathedral. It feels posh—with marble, hardwood, and a classic spiral staircase—but still friendly. Six of the 10 rooms have Acropolis views; streetside rooms are more expensive and come with some traffic and church-bell noise. The rooftop breakfast terrace becomes an excellent, haute cuisine restaurant at night (Mitropoleos 54, +30 210 322 2278, www.thezillersathenshotel.com, info@thezillersathenshotel.com).
$$$$ Niki Athens Hotel has a classy, movie-set vibe. The 23 rooms are smallish and industrial-mod in style, and there’s a good, attached vegan restaurant (elevator, Nikis 27, +30 210 322 0913, www.nikiathenshotel.com, info@nikihotel.gr).
$$$ Hermes Hotel, professionally run by the folks at Hotel Plaka, has lower rates and a slightly more appealing location on a less-trafficked street closer to Syntagma. Some of its 45 rooms have balconies, and guests share a pleasant lounge, a kids’ activity room, and a rooftop patio with a peek at the Acropolis (RS%, possible to add child’s cot, elevator, Apollonos 19, reservation +30 210 322 2706, reception +30 210 323 5514, www.hermeshotel.gr, hermes@athenshotelsgroup.com).
$$$ Achilleas Hotel is tranquil considering its central location, with a fern-themed lobby on a relatively quiet street. Straddling the line between business and boutique, its 35 rooms are splashed with bold colors (elevator, Lekka 21, +30 210 323 3197, www.achilleashotel.gr, achilleas@tourhotel.gr).
Splurges
$$$$ Hotel Grande Bretagne, a five-star splurge with 320 sprawling and elegantly furnished rooms, is considered the best hotel in Greece and ranks among the grand hotels of the world. It’s the place to stay if you have royal blood—or wish you did and feel like being treated like royalty for a few days. Built in 1862 to accommodate visiting heads of state, it became a hotel in 1874 and retains its 19th-century elegance as part of Marriott’s top-tier luxury collection (breakfast extra, elevator, overlooking Syntagma Square at Vassileos Georgiou 1, +30 210 333 0000, www.marriott.com, reservations.gb@luxurycollection.com). If you’d rather just eat here, consider their recommended rooftop restaurant, the GB Roof Garden.
$$$$ Electra Palace Athens is a luxury five-star hotel with 155 rooms in a quiet corner of the Plaka, not far from Syntagma. It’s pricey but plush, if a bit snooty, with top-notch service and elegance (elevator, garden patio, indoor pool, Acropolis-view outdoor pool in summer, Nikodimou 18, +30 210 337 0000, www.electrahotels.gr, epconcierge@electrahotels.gr). Nearby, the same company operates two similarly equipped hotels: $$$$ Electra Metropolis Athens, with 216 rooms in the busy heart of Syntagma near the cathedral (Acropolis-view roof garden, Mitropoleos 15, +30 214 100 6200) and $$$$ Electra Hotel Athens, at #5 on the busy pedestrian Ermou street (+30 210 337 8000).
Affordable Downtown Sleeps
$$ Hotel Adonis, in the heart of the Plaka on the quiet, traffic-free upper reaches of Kodrou, is a thoughtfully managed budget option. Most of the 26 rooms are no-frills, though a couple on the fourth floor have good views of the Acropolis, as does the rooftop bar (RS%, includes breakfast on roof terrace—which also opens at night for drinks and snacks, elevator, Kodrou 3, +30 210 324 9737, www.hotel-adonis.gr, info@hotel-adonis.gr, owner Spiros, assisted by Nikos).
$$ Belle Epoque Suites is a minimalist boutique hotel, friendly and funky but with no lobby. The 17 smallish rooms are a bit retro, a bit modern; some have balconies, and there’s a rooftop garden and attached café (elevator, Praxitelous 7, +30 210 700 0314, www.belleepoquesuites.com, info@belleepoquesuites.com).
$$ Hotel Kimon rents 15 rooms over a jolly, suitcase-themed lobby. Its location—in the Plaka, near the cathedral—is handy, the atmosphere is artsy, and the price is right (cheaper “economy” rooms are simpler and very affordable, no breakfast, no elevator, top-floor terrace with a corner that looks up at the Acropolis, Apollonos 27, +30 210 331 4658, www.kimonhotelathens.com, info@kimonhotelathens.com).
Hostel: Top-of-the line as hostels go, $ Mosaikon has cool and modern bunk rooms, with en suite bathrooms and individual, key-card lockers. This isn’t a party place, but the rooftop terrace and attached café are good for hanging out. It also offers nice though pricey $$$ doubles and lofts (elevator, Kolokotroni 61, +30 210 323 5000, www.mosaikon.gr, info@mosaikon.gr).
IN AND NEAR PSYRRI
This hip area of Athens is a melting pot of in-the-know restaurants, buzzing nightlife, and newer boutique hotels. While most of the hotels have an interchangeable “modern” decor, and you aren’t likely to find luxurious balconies or extravagant rooftops with sweeping views, sleeping here puts you in the middle of all the action, steps away from the sights, with contemporary Athens at your doorstep.
Closer to the Center
$$$ St. Bjur is an airy, fresh hotel with 16 decent-sized rooms perched above busy Athinas, half a block from Monastiraki Square. It’s a good value for a central location, with its own all-day Brunch Factory restaurant (breakfast extra, elevator, Athinas 11, +30 210 321 5208, www.stbjur.gr, info@stbjur.gr).
$$$ Blend Hotel offers a sleek, contemporary respite in 24 varied rooms and suites and a prime location along the spine of Psyrri’s popular Aiolou street (Vyssis 2, +30 210 322 1552, www.blendhotel.gr, askmeanything@blendhotel.gr).
$$$ Athens 4, housed in a design-forward former textile factory, oozes accessible chic, from its 23 uniquely styled rooms to its minimalist facade and public areas (Polyklitou 4, +30 201 322 4524, www.athens4.com, reservations@athens4.com).
$$ Athens 21 has no particular flair, but what it does it does well, namely provide a clean, well-run refuge smack dab amid all the action. The 19 rooms are straightforward and a good value, though may come with some street noise (elevator, breakfast extra, Athinas 21, +30 210 325 0408, www.athens21.gr, info@athens21.gr).
Near the Central Market
The area around the market is typically quiet after dark.
$$$ Arion Hotel is a reliable option with 51 spacious business-style rooms and a roof terrace between Iroon Square and the market. It doesn’t have much personality, but it’s reasonably polished compared to its scruffy surroundings (elevator, Agiou Dimitriou 18, +30 210 324 0415, www.arionhotel.gr [URL inactive], arion@tourhotel.gr).
$$ Athens Center Square Hotel, part of the Plaka and Hermes Hotel group, is slightly less expensive than its downtown sister properties—mostly because of its location, overlooking the somewhat seedy market square. Its 54 rooms are functional, minimalist, and colorfully painted, and the roof garden has Acropolis views (RS%, elevator, just off Athinas street overlooking the produce market at Aristogitonos 15, reservation +30 210 322 2706, reception +30 210 321 1770, www.athenscentersquarehotel.gr, acs@athenshotelsgroup.com).
$ Athens Psiri Hotel is a good budget choice for this part of town. It’s on a busy street and its immediate surroundings aren’t so charming, but you’re a stone’s throw from all that’s hip. The 25 rooms are surprisingly spacious for this price range—request a quieter room at the back (elevator, no breakfast, Sofokleus 32, +30 210 523 4329, www.athenspsirihotel.com, info@athenspsirihotel.com).
MAKRIGIANNI AND KOUKAKI, BEHIND THE ACROPOLIS
With the Acropolis Museum standing boldly as their gateway, the adjoining residential areas of Makrigianni and Koukaki, just south of the Acropolis, feel typically Athenian urban. (Some locals call Makrigianni the “south Plaka.”) Full of six-story concrete apartment buildings, hole-in-the-wall grocery stores, and corner cafés, these neighborhoods let you feel like a temporary Athenian while still providing relatively easy access to major sights. Most can be reached by a longish walk—figure 5-10 minutes to the edge of the Plaka (which involves passing a gauntlet of aggressively touristy eateries near the Acropolis Museum), then another 10 minutes to Monastiraki. These hotels are all located between the Akropoli and Syngrou-Fix Metro stops. Be aware that to reach most points of interest from these stops, you’ll change Metro lines at Syntagma.
$$$$ Hotel Hera is a tempting splurge, with 38 plush rooms above a classy lobby. With helpful service, lots of thoughtful little touches, an air of elegance, and a handy location near the Acropolis end of this neighborhood, it’s a fine value (elevator, rooftop Acropolis-view restaurant, Falirou 9, +30 210 923 6682, www.herahotel.gr, info@herahotel.gr).
$$$ Acropolis View doesn’t look like much from the outside and the lobby is stuck in the 1980s, but the selling point is in the name: many of the 32 rooms have nice views over green Filopappos Hill or the city. Breakfast is served on the roof terrace, gazing toward the Parthenon (elevator, Webster 10, +30 210 921 7303, www.acropolisviewhotel.gr, av_hotel@otenet.gr).
$$ Acropolis Stay has a generic name but a personal touch. This is a little collection of apartments, attentively managed by Vasilis and team. The 10 comfy rooms vary in size, but all are efficiently designed and come with kitchenettes (breakfast extra, Spirou Donta 3, +30 210 921 0222, www.acropolistay.gr, info@acropolistay.gr).
$ Marble House Pension is a small, family-run place hiding at the end of a little cul-de-sac, a few minutes’ walk past my other listings in this area. The 16 cozy rooms—most with small balconies—are simple but well cared for, and (true to its name) it’s decorated with real marble. If you don’t mind the more remote location, it’s an excellent deal (cheaper rooms with shared bath, reserve with credit card but pay in cash, breakfast extra, air-con extra, 3 floors with no elevator, closed Dec-Feb; 5-minute walk from Syngrou-Fix Metro at Zinni 35a—from Zinni street take the alley to the left of the tidy Catholic church, +30 210 923 4058, www.marblehouse.gr, info@marblehouse.gr; Christos with mom Nancy and retired-but-present dad Thanos). They also rent a beautifully appointed modern apartment next door.
Hostel: The best place in town for backpacker bonding, ¢ Athens Backpackers is youthful and fun-loving with two bars, including one on the rooftop. Well-run by gregarious Aussies, it offers good bunks, laundry, and an opportunity to meet up with other travelers (Makri 12, +30 210 922 4044, www.backpackers.gr, info@backpackers.gr).