EATING IN ATHENS
“SOUVLAKI ROW” NEAR MONASTIRAKI
On Sokratous Street, near the Produce Market
COFFEE, ICE CREAM, AND WINE BARS
Chilled Treats and a Rare Central Grocery Store
Greek food is just plain good. And Athens, the melting pot of Greece (and the Balkans), is one of the best places to experience the cuisine, thanks to a stunning variety of tasty and affordable eateries.
I’ve listed these restaurants by neighborhood. You probably won’t be able to resist dining in the touristy Plaka at least once—it’s fun, folkloric, and full of clichés (beware the tourist traps). But don’t be afraid to venture elsewhere. For a trendy and youthful local scene, target Psyrri—just beyond the tourist zone. For those staying near the Acropolis Museum in Makrigianni or Koukaki, I’ve listed a couple of convenient options (including my two favorite elegant restaurants in all of Athens).
I rank eateries from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For more advice on eating in Greece, including ordering, tipping, and Greek cuisine and beverages, see the “Eating” section of the Practicalities chapter.
EATING TIPS
Restaurants: Locals and tourists alike fill tavernas, mezedopolios (eateries selling small meze—Greek tapas), ouzeries (bars selling ouzo liquor and pub grub), and other traditional eateries dishing up the basics. Greeks like to eat late—around 21:00 or later. Restaurants in Athens tend to stay open until midnight or even past that.
Smoking: Though smoking is not allowed in indoor spaces, don’t be surprised to find that some restaurants and bars don’t enforce the law.
Budget Snacks: To save money and time, try one of Greece’s street-food specialties. Options include souvlaki (meat-on-a-skewer meal), savory pie (filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables), koulouri (bread rings), loukoumades (Greek doughnuts), and more.
Food Tours: To learn about local eating traditions and sample lots of Greek cuisine, join a food tour; for recommendations, see the sidebar later in this chapter.
For a do-it-yourself approach, see the Psyrri and Central Market Walk chapter and follow my self-guided walk through the Psyrri neighborhood, which hits several eating spots and leads you through the Central Market action.
TOURISTY MEALS IN THE PLAKA
Diners—Greeks and tourists alike—flock to the Plaka. In this neighborhood, the ambience is better than the food. I’ve avoided the obvious, touristy joints on the main pedestrian drag—with shards of broken plates in the cobbles and obnoxious touts out front luring diners with a desperate spiel—in favor of more authentic-feeling eateries huddled on the quieter hillside just above. Eat at one of my recommendations, or simply choose the place that appeals to you with live music, a pleasant square, or a great view of an ancient monument. Prices are pretty consistent and painless, and the quality is acceptable.
At the top of the Plaka, stepped lanes are lined with eateries featuring interchangeable food, delightful outdoor seating, and noisy tourists. Many of these places have live music and/or rooftop gardens.
$$ Scholarhio Ouzeri Kouklis, at the intersection of Tripodon and Epicharmou streets, serves only small plates. While jammed with tourists, it’s fun, inexpensive, and ideal for small groups wanting to try a variety of traditional meze (local tapas) and drink good, homemade booze on an airy perch at the top of the Plaka. Since 1935, the Kouklis family has been making ouzo liquor and feeding people here—maintaining that 1930s atmosphere. Drinks are cheap, and the stress-free €17 meal deals (including dessert and a drink) are worth considering. Many wait for a spot to open up on the lively front terrace, but you can instead climb to the upstairs dining room with its romantic balconies for two (daily 11:30-24:00, Tripodon 14, +30 210 324 7605, www.scholarhio.gr). If the scene here is a bit too intense or touristic, the neighboring To Kafeneio (immediately across the lane and downhill at Epicharmou 1) also offers a fun and characteristic variety of meze plates.
$$$ Xenios Zeus (Ξένιος Ζευς) sits proudly at the top of the Mnisikleous steps, offering traditional, home-cooked Greek food inside or out on a terrace overlooking Athens’ rooftops. Greeks actually eat here (daily 10:30-24:00, closed Nov-March, Mnisikleous 37, +30 210 324 9514, www.xenioszeus.com.gr). They promise a free bottle of ouzo to diners with this book (be sure to ask).
$$ Klepsidra Café is parked on a picturesque corner high in the Plaka (a block directly above the Roman Agora) with an authentic “old Plaka” ambience, tiny tables littering the ramshackle steps, and a somewhat younger and more local crowd. Friendly George and his team serve light bites—a few traditional dishes, savory pies, meze, and salads, plus good desserts, traditional coffee, and booze (daily 9:00-24:00, Thrasivoulou 9, +30 210 321 2493).
$$$ Palia Taverna tou Psara (Old Fisherman’s Tavern) is a big, slick, impersonal, pricey eatery. It’s the kind of place where a rowdy, rollicking group of a hundred can slam down a dish-’em-up Greek meal. While often dominated by tour groups, it can be enjoyable. There’s live folk music on weekends (daily 12:00-24:00, Eretheos 16, +30 210 321 8734, www.psaras-taverna.gr).
$$ Vryssaki Art Café is a delightful 19th-century home on the corner of a quiet lane on the back side of the Agora (a long block before the Roman Forum entrance). Their cozy courtyard offers an inviting refuge from the crowds or you can enjoy drinks and light bites on the balcony (wraps, toasts, sandwiches; daily 10:00-24:00, Vrysakiou 17, +30 210 321 0179, www.vryssaki.gr).
NEAR SYNTAGMA SQUARE
These options are in the gritty urban streets near Syntagma Square and the Plaka—an area that’s more residential and pleasantly less touristic.
$$$$ Aneton, with an esteemed chef, serves beautifully presented modern Greek cuisine in an intimate and romantic setting. It’s dressy but not pretentious (the name means “comfortable”) with six tables inside and six out. With a selection of first courses that make for a fun family-style sharing meal, great Greek wines by the glass, and a staff that is eager to help, this is a worthwhile splurge. Their bitter chocolate ganache can send two into orbit (Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00, closed Sun, +30 210 806 6700, Navarchou Nikodimou 3, www.aneton.gr).
$$$$ 2Mazi Restaurant Wine Bar fills a tranquil, leafy courtyard—which I prefer over their forgettable inside tables—and serves quality modern Greek dishes (daily 13:00-24:00, Nikis 48, +30 210 322 2839, www.2mazi.gr).
$$$ Athinaikon Restaurant, with a heritage going back to the 1930s, is a venerable businessman’s favorite, serving a variety of traditional meze plates and Greek, Italian, and other Mediterranean recipes. You’ll dine in a no-nonsense art-deco/mod interior with professional service and a local crowd (Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00, Sun until 22:00, a block from the cathedral at Mitropoleos 34, +30 210 325 2688).
$$$ Tzitzikas Kai Mermigas (The Cricket and the Ant) serves modern, regional Greek cuisine from a fun and accessible menu. Choose between indoor seating surrounded by vintage grocery ads, or grab a sidewalk table in a bustling urban zone (daily 12:30-24:00, Mitropoleos 12, +30 210 324 7607).
$$$ Avocado Vegetarian Café (at the 4 Seasons Organic Food Market) is a good bet if you need an eatery with a passion for organic farming and nothing with eyeballs. The menu includes pastas, pizzas, veggie burgers, and sandwiches, as well as lots of energy juices (Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun until 17:00, Nikis 30, +30 210 323 7878).
$$ Kimolia (Κιµωλία) Art Café is a cute little pastel place at the edge of the Plaka. Katerina and Nikos have only a small menu of fresh sandwiches and drinks. But the relaxing vibe, friendly service, and piano in the back make it a nice place to take a break (daily 10:00-24:00, Iperidou 5, +30 211 184 8446).
$$$$ Black Duck Garden—a cozy urban oasis tucked into the courtyard of the Museum of the City of Athens—is a mansion with a tranquil courtyard and garden to slip away from the tourist crowd. The short, Mediterranean-focused menu is all about quality. At night, the garden is lit with candles and hanging lanterns for a casual yet romantic feel. It’s popular with the local art community (daily 10:00-24:00, may be closed in winter, Ioannou Paparigopoulou 5, +30 210 325 2396).
$$$$ (and up) GB Roof Garden Restaurant at the Hotel Grande Bretagne is posh as can be. It’s pure fancy-hotel-restaurant elegance—in a rooftop garden with spectacular Acropolis views that stretch all the way to the sea. To splurge on fine Greek and Mediterranean cuisine with a rooftop view, this is a good choice (daily 13:00-24:00, reservations required for dinner, smart casual dress code after 18:00, on Syntagma Square, +30 210 333 0766, www.gbroofgarden.gr). For upscale bar food or a pricey beer or cocktail with a view, drop by their swanky lounge.
“SOUVLAKI ROW” NEAR MONASTIRAKI
The junction of Monastiraki Square and Mitropoleos street is souvlaki heaven.
$$ Bairaktaris Restaurant (Μπαϊρακταρησ), facing the big Monastiraki Square, dominates the scene with food to go or to sit down and dine. For a souvlaki pita sandwich (or wrap) to go, just pay at the outdoor cashier, take your receipt to the window, and within moments you’ll have a €3 lunch to enjoy (you’ll see public benches on the square). To eat at the restaurant, grab an outdoor spot facing the square, on the pedestrian street, or inside the characteristic, fun-loving dining hall. The sit-down menu (with bigger portions and higher prices) features shaved gyro meats, kebabs, hearty Greek salads, and a few other standard Greek dishes plus wine, beer, and ouzo (open daily until very late, live music daily, Mitropoleos 71). The souvlaki plate (around €10) can feed two or even three. They don’t say so on the menu, but they serve half portions of this plate for half-price if you ask.
My favorite fast-food meal in Greece is souvlaki (the Greek equivalent to our hot dog). It’s quick, cheap, filling, and oh so Greek. The terminology can be tricky:
Souvlaki is usually pork or chicken grilled on a little skewer (as its name means). When you get it to go, the meat is wrapped in a wonderful greasy pita pocket with lettuce, tomato, onions, and tzatziki (cucumber-yogurt-garlic sauce), then tucked into a paper cone. If you like yours spicy, grab the shaker and sprinkle on some red pepper (or ask the vendor to season it for you). A souvlaki is often bulked up with doughy French fries (which you can decline).
The gyro (yee-roh) is a virtually identical type of sandwich made from a hunk of meat cooked on a spinning vertical rotisserie (also called a gyro, meaning “turn”). The meat—usually pork, chicken, lamb, or a combination—is shaved into a steamy, tasty pile and then wrapped in a pita with the usual accompaniments.
The kebab—your third “meat on a spindle” option—is also sold at many souvlaki stands. This is basically a long, skinny, uncased sausage made of minced meat, pierced by a souvlaki spindle, and grilled. It’s served the same way as a souvlaki or a gyro: wrapped in pita with tomatoes, onions, and tzatziki.
Souvlaki Tips: Even with the rise of international fast-food places, the traditional souvlaki stand seems as ubiquitous as ever. A souvlaki stand typically sells several variations on the theme: a big portion on a plate, or a smaller portion wrapped in a pita.
In touristy restaurants, the challenge can be to get a cheap sandwich or wrap rather than a €12 souvlaki plate. A souvlaki plate is a huge meal, but you can also make a full meal with a single souvlaki, gyro, or kebab and a shared Greek salad. Whether you get it to go or to dine in, a wrap should cost about €3.
$$ Taverna Thanasis, filling the smaller, charming square behind Bairaktaris, is huge and more of a local favorite. Greek meat-lovers come here for their special kebab. Unlike Bairaktaris, they serve cheap souvlaki wraps at your table (long hours daily, +30 21 0324 4705, Mitropoleos 69).
PSYRRI AND THE CENTRAL MARKET
The mix of trendy and crusty gives this fun area just north of Monastiraki a unique charm. While I’ve listed a few restaurants to consider, the scene is ever-changing with countless creative little eateries and a different vibe each night—you might just wander and see what feels best. For more on this area, see the Psyrri and Central Market Walk chapter.
Iroon Square
Iroon Square is the lively hub of Psyrii action—just right for a touristy, folksy Greek dining experience in a jumble of places eager to take your money. Each of the square’s surrounding streets has a unique and ever-evolving character with memorable places to eat.
$$$ Oineas Restaurant is understated and popular with locals for its tasty classic Greek dishes (Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00, Sat-Sun from 13:00, two blocks from Iroon Square at Aisopou 9, +30 210 321 5614).
$$ O Nikitas (Ο Νικήτας), just a block from the tourist kitsch, sits on a peaceful square, serving mainly meze plates and good food to a local crowd (daily 12:00-19:00, Thu-Sat until 22:00 in season, across from a cute church at Agion Anargyron 19, +30 210 325 2591). Their bifteki (fancy hamburger patty) is a fave.
$$ Avli (Αυλή; Courtyard) is for the adventurous. Step through its speakeasy door into a long, skinny, and thriving courtyard with a thicket of tiny tables, the clack of worry beads, and Greeks wondering, “How did that tourist find this place?” They have a simple menu with small plates perfect for ordering family-style and sharing. If you leave the table, a cat may take your seat. This is a good spot to try the old pine-flavored retsina wine (Wed-Mon 12:00-24:00, closed Tue, Agiou Dimitriou 12—look for the small doorway labeled αυλή, no reservations).
On Sokratous Street, near the Produce Market
These are great finds for adventurous diners, or those looking to do as the Athenians do.
$$$ Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani (Τα Καραμανλίδικα Του Φάνη), my favorite in this area for a serious meal, offers a nice change of pace from the typical Psyrri tavernas. It’s a quality meat-and-cheese shop that doubles as a restaurant. With its mix of authentic Anatolian flavors, aged cheese, and cured meats, it’s a tasty reminder that many Greek Turks settled here in Athens in the 1920s—bringing their cuisine with them. Several dishes include pastourma—meat coated in delicious herbs and spices, similar to pastrami. Friendly Maria and her gang offer a fun and enticing menu with a variety of tasty small plates and a popular meat-and-cheese taster plate with tsipouro (grappa-like brandy). The dining area is bigger than it looks (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, closed Sun, Sokratous 1, reservations smart, +30 210 325 4184, www.karamanlidika.gr).
$$ Diporto, in business since 1887, feels like a time warp. Difficult to find and true to its name, it has two doors (both painted a drab brown) leading down almost dangerously into its unfinished-cellar space lined with wooden casks of wine. They have just a few dishes—all simmering in pots on the rustic stove. Service and ambience are basically nonexistent in this dive, but local old-timers—who crowd around a few rickety, shared tables—appreciate the cooking (no English spoken...or needed; Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00, closed Sun; Sokratous 9—across from the parking-garage entrance at the produce market, +30 210 321 1463).
In the Central Market
Athanaton Stoa, a tiny lane within the covered Central Market (on the side farthest from the Acropolis) has a string of enticing little $$ restaurants that are comfy and characteristic amidst all the bloody chaos. (I enjoyed Taverna Aris.) These places stay open until after the bars close, as they’re a favorite with drunks ready to sober up. Other market options include:
$ Ta Biftekakia Ouzo Bar, in the thick of the market and run by helpful Kostas, is great for a drink and snack. Pay about €3-4 for an ouzo and little meze plate to enjoy while you observe the action (on a side aisle, midway down the Central Market fish section; Mon-Sat 8:00-16:00—sometimes later, closed Sun). It’s easy to miss—look for the big A sign or the sign advertising Μπυρα-Ουζο-Τσιπουρο—beer, ouzo, tsipouro.
$$ Epirus Tavern (Οινομαγειρείο Η Ήπειρος) is the place for a lowbrow, stick-to-your-ribs meal. This place (quiet and spacious even though it’s in the market) is known for its meat soups, particularly those made with tripe. Survey what’s cooking at the counter and point (Mon-Sat 6:00-19:30, closed Sun; from the grand entry, it’s in the far-right corner at Filopimenos 4, +30 210 324 0773).
On Aiolou Street
The pedestrianized lane called Aiolou, which runs north from near Monastiraki to the Central Market, is a virtual food circus of fast and affordable options, all $. Here are a few to consider, listed in the order you’d reach them walking north to the market:
Tylixto, at Aiolou 19C, is a hit for anything tucked in a pita (the restaurant’s name means “wrapped”). With small tables right in the flow of the pedestrians, you’ll munch a cheap meal amid a people parade.
Kosta Souvlaki (ΚΩΣTA), about a block north of Ermou (opposite Aiolou 29 on a sweet square facing the Church of St. Irene) is a local favorite that’s been serving up good souvlaki pitas since the 1940s. This is a classic place: no gyro slices or kebabs...just traditional skewer-roasted souvlaki wraps. You can get yours to go or grab a rustic little table on the square (Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, closed Sun).
Feyrouz, across from Aiolou 50 and 20 steps down the lane, is a sweet and gentle little family-run spot where earnest and English-speaking Savvas serves gracefully spicy Turkish/Syrian/Greek street food (like pizzas) with paper plates and simple tables inside and out. It’s best for lunch or a light dinner (Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, closed Sun, +30 213 031 8060). For dessert, don’t miss the baklava-type Levantine treats sold by the family’s sister in a place just across the lane.
Falafellas, at Aiolou 51, is a popular hole-in-the-wall spot selling falafel sandwiches to locals who recognize the quality (and need nowhere to sit).
Krinos Greek Doughnuts (Κρίνος), just outside the market at Aiolou 87, is famed for its loukoumades—fried Greek doughnuts. Get them to go or enjoy inside at a once-venerable meeting place. You’ll pay a few euros for a sharable portion of six doughnuts in a small box (to go, buy at window facing the street) or on a plate (inside, buy at counter in the back). They’re most enjoyable seated so you can cut them to bits and smash them into the classic honey, walnuts, and cinnamon syrup (as locals remember doing with their grandparents here) along with a nice coffee or tea (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:30, closed Sun, +30 210 321 6852).
THISSIO
This pleasant neighborhood just west of the center is easy to reach from downtown and significantly quieter—plus it comes with ogle-worthy views of the Acropolis. It’s good for an evening stroll (see the Nightlife in Athens chapter) or a bite to eat. Browse along the Apostolou Pavlou strip and find the combination of menu and view that most appeals. Or look deeper in the neighborhood for these two places, where you trade better food for no panorama.
$$$ Merceri, at the less touristy end of the Iraklidon promenade, boasts a vaguely Art Deco dining room and accolades for chefs Melina and Maria. The menu is short, varied, and carnivorous, combining Greek flavors with international influences such as salmon sushi served with cheese from the island of Naxos (Wed-Mon 12:00-24:00, closed Tue, Iraklidon 21, +30 210 341 7511).
$$ To Kousoulo (ΤΟ ΚΟΥΣΟΥΛΟ) offers no culinary discoveries, but they do the Greek standards well, portions are generous, and the streetside terrace is inviting (daily 9:00-24:00, corner of Amfiktionos and Iraklidon, +30 211 412 2239).
MAKRIGIANNI AND KOUKAKI
The area around the Acropolis Museum—where this neighborhood meets the Plaka—is home to a trendy and touristy row of restaurants, cafés, and ice-cream shops along pedestrian Makrigianni street. While there are countless hardworking and appealing eateries along these streets, the following restaurants are worth serious consideration. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$$ Strofi Athenian Restaurant is my choice in Athens for white-tablecloth, elegantly modern, rooftop-Acropolis-view dining. Niko Bletsos and his staff offer attentive service, gorgeously presented plates, and classic Greek cuisine—especially lamb. And though they have a fine air-conditioned interior, the rooftop is comfortable regardless of how hot or cool the evening. For a floodlit Acropolis view, you’ll be glad you made reservations (Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00, closed Mon, about 100 yards down Propyleon street off Dionysiou Areopagitou at Rovertou Galli 25, +30 210 921 4130, www.strofi.gr).
$$$ Mani Mani (Μάνη Μάνη) offers a touch of class for reasonable prices, with cuisine and ingredients from the Mani Peninsula. The dining is indoors only, and the food, like the decor, is thoughtfully updated. As this is justifiably popular, reservations are smart (daily 14:00-23:00 in summer, shorter hours off-season, go upstairs at Falirou 10, +30 210 921 8180, www.manimani.com.gr).
$$$ Balcony Restaurant is upscale but unpretentious in the heart of the neighborhood. With a forgettable dining room and a homey terrace high above the traffic, they serve creative and modern Greek/Mediterranean cuisine accompanied by a good wine list (Mon-Fri 16:30-24:00, Sat-Sun from 13:00, Veikou 1, +30 211 411 8437).
The $$$ Acropolis Museum Restaurant is sleek and modern with dressy tables (inside and out), an amazing Acropolis view terrace, and a good lunch and dinner menu. No museum ticket is required: Simply enter the museum, pick up a free restaurant ticket, and catch the elevator before the turnstile. Special dinners are served on Friday and Saturday until midnight (service can be slow—perhaps that’s why breakfast is served until noon; open same hours as museum: Mon 9:00-16:00, Tue-Thu and Sat-Sun until 20:00, Fri until 22:00; shorter hours Nov-March; +30 210 900 0915).
$$ To Kati Allo Restaurant (To Kάτι Άλλο Ψησταριά), immediately under the far side of the Acropolis Museum, is the quintessential neighborhood hole-in-the-wall. It’s old-fashioned and a bit forlorn, yet strangely appealing and reasonably priced amid all the trendy, Starbucky places on the nearby boulevard. Run by English-speaking Kostas, it offers both sidewalk seating and inside tables with air-conditioned comfort. The blackboard menu features a short list of choices, but I’d go straight to the counter displaying what’s on for the day and explore your options directly with Kostas (daily 11:00-24:00, off Makrigianni street at Chatzichristou 12, +30 210 922 3071).
$ Souvlaki at the Akropoli Metro station is an efficient and busy joint cranking out souvlaki, gyros, and salads with a few simple tables on the plaza just steps away from the entrance to the Akropoli Metro stop. Service is speedy, the menu is very clear, the wraps are cheap and filling, and the people-watching is entertaining (daily 11:00-24:00, across the street from the Acropolis Museum, Athanasiou Diakou 1).
COFFEE, ICE CREAM, AND WINE BARS
Chilled Treats and a Rare Central Grocery Store
Cold Coffee With a Straw? Greeks love their coffee cold. You have options: A Greek frappé is instant coffee (Nescafe) and water mixed with evaporated milk and sugar to taste, poured over ice, and served with a straw. A freddo is a double shot (usually) of espresso blended with ice. Without milk it’s a freddo espresso. With milk it’s a freddo cappuccino and comes with a creamy foam top.
For good local coffee for half the price of Starbucks, you’ll find handy branches of the local chains Gregory’s (Γρηγόρης), Everest, and Coffee Island all over town. They have all the typical coffee drinks you’d find at home, plus cold coffee drinks like frappé and freddo, which locals love to drink in summer. The Mikel Coffee chain is a bit pricier and posher (one handy location is near Syntagma Square at Mitropoleos 3). For the location of Mikel and the next three listings, see the “Athens Restaurants” map earlier in this chapter.
For Greek coffee made the traditional way (heated in a tray of hot sand), visit Mokka, at the entrance to the Central Market (daily 7:30-15:30, Athinas 44, +30 210 321 6892; see here for a full description).
Kokkion Ice Cream serves up decadent, mouth-watering flavors of gourmet ice cream and sorbet made with fresh, local ingredients and a nod to traditional Greek tastes (daily 8:00-24:00, just north of Monastiraki Square at Protogenous 2).
Bazaar Grocery Store, just behind the cathedral (and next to recommended Heteroclito wine bar—see the next section) is a convenient little supermarket with premade sandwiches in the back (Mon-Sat 8:00-21:00, closed Sun, Petraki 30).
Wine Bars (with Light Bites)
These places focus on wine and small plates to go with it. For locations, see the “Athens Restaurants” map earlier in this chapter.
By the Glass wine bar is a relaxed, jazz-cool place where you can enjoy a bar stool—or find a quiet table inside or out on a breezy arcade—and learn from the server about Greek wines. Their menu includes countless wines by the glass plus plates of mixed Greek cheeses and meats, salads, and other upscale nibbles (daily 13:00-24:00, between the Plaka and National Garden at Souri 3, inside the InnAthens hotel, +30 210 323 2560). In summer their tables spill into the shady square across the street.
Heteroclito is a sophisticated-but-unpretentious, urban-feeling wine bar buried in the tight streets near Syntagma Square. They serve carefully curated Greek wines by the glass, along with a short list of accompanying finger food. Inside and upstairs is comfy, and outside is great for people-watching (Mon-Sat 12:30-24:00, Sun from 18:00, Fokionos 2 at corner with Petraki—facing the back of the cathedral, +30 201 323 9406).