PRACTICALITIES
RESERVATIONS AND ADVANCE TICKETS
Map: Great Britain’s Public Transportation
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Map: How to Navigate a Roundabout
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.
Travel Tips
Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, at Travel.State.gov (US State Department travel pages) and CDC.gov (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention). The US embassy website for Great Britain is another good source of information (see later).
While most countries no longer require proof of Covid-19 vaccination for entry, some sights or tours may still have vaccination requirements (check websites). Even if it’s not required for your itinerary, it’s smart to pack a copy of your vaccine record and/or store a photo of your Covid-19 vaccine card on your phone.
Tourist Information: Before your trip, start with the Visit Britain website, which contains a wealth of knowledge on destinations, activities, accommodations, and transport in Great Britain (www.visitbritain.com). Transportation, sightseeing, and theater tickets can also be purchased (www.visitbritainshop.com/usa).
In Britain, a good first stop is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). London has only one official brick-and-mortar TI, specific to the City of London (near St. Paul’s Cathedral—see here).
TIs are in business to help you spend money in their town—which can color their advice—but I still swing by to pick up a city map and get info on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife.
Due to funding constraints, some of Britain’s TIs are struggling; village TIs may be staffed by volunteers who need to charge you for maps and informational brochures.
Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 or 999. If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacy and see a “chemist” (pharmacist) for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know of the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen items, and it can help with replacing your passport or cards. For help with a lost phone, see “Damage Control for Lost Phones” on here. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.
US Consulate and Embassy: Dial +44 20 7499 9000 (all services), no walk-in passport services; for emergency two-day passport service, schedule an appointment or fill out the online Emergency Passport Contact Form, 33 Nine Elms Lane, London, Tube: Vauxhall, https://uk.usembassy.gov.
High Commission of Canada in London: Dial +44 20 7004 6000, passport services available Mon-Fri 9:30-12:30, Canada House, Trafalgar Square, London, Tube: Charing Cross, www.unitedkingdom.gc.ca.
Time Zones: Britain is five/eight hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US—and one hour earlier than most of continental Europe. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).
Business Hours: Most stores are open Monday through Saturday (roughly 9:00 or 10:00 to 17:00 or 18:00). In cities, some stores stay open later on Wednesday or Thursday (until 19:00 or 20:00). Some big-city department stores are open later throughout the week (Mon-Sat until about 21:00). Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open, many street markets are lively with shoppers, banks and many shops are closed, public transportation options are fewer (for example, no bus service to or from smaller towns), and there’s no rush hour.
Watt’s Up? Britain’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and appliances (hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with three square prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.
Rip Up This Book! Turn chapters into mini guidebooks: Break the book’s spine and use a utility knife to slice apart chapters, keeping gummy edges intact. Reinforce the chapter spines with clear wide tape, use a heavy-duty stapler, or make or buy a cheap cover (see the Travel Store at www.ricksteves.com), swapping out chapters as you travel.
Discounts: Discounts (called “concessions” or “concs” in Britain) for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 65 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only for British citizens.
Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint when traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them). Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, see RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.
Money
Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Europe. I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Credit Card: You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big (hotels, advance tickets) and small (little shops, food stands). Many European businesses have gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is widely accepted and simple to use.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw a small amount of local cash. Wait until you arrive to get pounds (European airports have plenty of ATMs); if you buy pounds before your trip, you’ll pay bad stateside exchange rates. While many transactions are by card these days, cash can help you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work and can be useful to pay for things like tips and local guides. Cash is used more often in smaller towns. But don’t take out too much, or you may find you can’t use it all.
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.
Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency (for example, if your debit card gets eaten by the machine).
BEFORE YOU GO
Know your cards. For credit cards, Visa and Mastercard are universal, while American Express and Discover are less common. US debit cards with a Visa or Mastercard logo will work in any European ATM.
Go “contactless.” Contactless pay options are now standard in much of Europe. Check to see if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines) and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section for details). Both options are more secure than a physical credit card: Instead of recording your credit-card number, a one-time encrypted “token” enables the purchase and expires shortly afterward.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.
Report your travel dates. Some banks want to know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards overseas, specifically when and where you’re headed. Depending on your bank, you can do this either online or over the phone.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can withdraw daily and ask for a higher daily limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not from savings accounts.
Find out about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or Mastercard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). Shop around; you can compare credit cards on Bankrate.com. Some cards offer lower international fees than others—and some don’t charge any at all. If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new card. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.
IN EUROPE
Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps
Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: These cards have the usual chip and/or magnetic stripe, but with the addition of a contactless symbol. Simply tap your card against a contactless reader to complete a transaction—no PIN or signature required (except in some cases as a security measure for larger purchases). This is by far the easiest way to pay and is available in much of Europe. Some small businesses (such as market stalls or food stands) accept only tap cards; city buses typically accept tap cards or exact change.
Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. Pick a credit card with no foreign transaction fees and set it as your device’s default. To pay, hold your phone near a contactless reader; you may need to verify the transaction with a face scan, fingerprint scan, or passcode. If you’ve arrived in Europe without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone to work in this way.
Will My US Card Work? Usually, yes. On rare occasions, you may run into a situation where your card doesn’t work. This is most likely at self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks, tollbooths, or fuel pumps). Usually a tap-to-pay card does the trick in these situations. If not, look for a cashier who can process your payment manually, or use cash. Drivers should be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. (In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card.) When approaching a toll plaza or ferry-ticket line, use the “cash” lane.
Always Choose to Pay in the Local Currency: During a credit-card transaction, the payment terminal will often ask whether you want to pay in US dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While this “service”—called Dynamic Currency Conversion (DCC)—offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate and/or higher fees, and you’ll wind up losing money.
Using Cash
Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars. In Europe, the universal term for an ATM is “bankomat”; in Britain, ask for a “cashpoint.”
The best option is an ATM operated by a bank, which offers local cash calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate. Look for a cash machine marked with a bank logo, and ideally use one just outside a brick-and-mortar bank (in the rare event that you have any issues).
You’ll more commonly see cash machines run by exchange or money-transfer companies, which have unfavorable rates, higher fees, or both. These can be marked Euronet, Travelex, Your Cash, and Cashzone—or simply marked generically, as “bankomat” or “ATM.” Avoid these unless you enjoy paying too much for your local cash.
Rip-off exchange ATMs are often the only option at airports and train stations. On arrival, consider using a cashless payment option to get downtown, then find a real bank near your hotel to withdraw local currency.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later. When offered the choice to process your transaction in US dollars or the local currency, always choose the local currency for the best rates.
Exchanging Cash: Minimize exchanging money in Europe; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). In a pinch, you can find exchange desks at major train stations or airports. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
Security Tips
Even in “Jollie Olde Britain,” pickpockets target tourists. Keep your passport and backup cash and cards secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money and one card in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front of the machine. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Don’t use a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).
Damage Control for Lost Cards
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to your bank (using a secure app) or the following global customer-assistance centers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), Mastercard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111).
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.
TIPPING
Tipping in Britain isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, your tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: It’s not necessary to tip if a service charge is included in the bill (common in London—usually 12.5 percent). Otherwise, it’s appropriate to tip about 10 to 12 percent for good service. For details on tipping in restaurants, see here.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (maximum 10 percent; for instance, if the fare is £7.40, pay £8). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.
Services: For local guides, private drivers, or others who spend several hours with you, and significantly improve the quality of your trip, a healthy tip (of around 10 percent) is not extravagant. In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a good job for you, a small tip of a pound or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
GETTING A VAT REFUND
Since 2021, visitors to the UK are no longer able to get a VAT (value-added tax) refund on purchases made in UK shops. Also, tax-free sales at airports, at Eurostar train stations, and in ports are discontinued. In Great Britain (England, Scotland, and Wales), overseas visitors can still buy items tax-free at stores (that offer this service) if the items are sent directly to an overseas address outside the UK. Visitors to Northern Ireland may shop tax-free if the items are sent directly to an address outside the UK and the EU. As the UK continues to adjust to the fallout from Brexit, the situation regarding VAT refunds and tax-free shopping could change again. For the latest, check Gov.uk/tax-on-shopping/taxfree-shopping.
CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit Help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to England’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS
Your best navigation tool is on your phone. Google Maps (and similar mapping apps) offers turn-by-turn directions for walking and driving, as well as detailed public transit instructions in most big cities. Simply plug in a destination and instantly get detailed directions for reaching it on foot or by subway, bus, or tram—including where to catch it, how long it takes, where to get off, and how far you’ll walk at the other end.
To conserve data, most mapping apps let you download maps in advance (do this when you’re on strong Wi-Fi). However, offline maps may not include every feature (most in-city public transit navigation doesn’t work offline). For more on how to get online with your phone during your trip, see here.
For offline navigation, the maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Europe, simple paper maps are generally free at TIs and hotels; maps with more detail are sold at newsstands and bookstores.
The Rick Steves Britain, Ireland & London City Map is useful for planning ($9, www.ricksteves.com). For those visiting London, Bensons London Street Map is my favorite for efficient sightseeing and might be the best £4 you’ll spend. I also like the Handy London Map and Guide version, which shows every little lane and all the sights, and comes with a transit map. Many Londoners, along with obsessive-compulsive tourists, rely on the highly detailed London A-Z map book (generally £5-7, called “A to Zed” by locals, available at newsstands).
PLAN AHEAD
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see the “At a Glance” sidebars for London, Cornwall, Bath, the Cotswolds, Liverpool, the Lake District, and York.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or royal audience. Opening days and hours can fluctuate; confirm the latest with the TI or at the sight’s official website (listed throughout this book). Some sights in England have pricing that changes based on the day; check websites in advance for the day you plan to visit.
Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Bank Holiday Mondays in May and August. A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.
Plan for rain no matter when you go. The weather can change several times a day, but rarely is it extreme. As the locals say, “There’s no bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.” Bring a jacket and dress in layers.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit. The British Museum rocks if you understand the significance of the Rosetta Stone.
RESERVATIONS AND ADVANCE TICKETS
Many popular sights in Europe come with long ticket-buying lines. Visitors who buy tickets online in advance (or who have a sightseeing pass covering key sights) can skip the line and waltz right in. Advance tickets are generally timed-entry, meaning you’re guaranteed admission on a certain date and time.
Harry Potter’s story is set in a magical, largely fictional Britain, but you can visit many real English locations used in the film series. Other settings, like Diagon Alley, exist only at Leavesden Film Studios (north of London; see here).
Harry first realizes his wizard powers in The Sorcerer’s Stone (2001) when talking with a snake at the London Zoo’s Reptile House. Later, Harry shops for school supplies in the glass-roofed Leadenhall Market.
In The Chamber of Secrets (2002), Harry catches the train to Hogwarts wizarding school at King’s Cross Station from the fictional Platform 9¾. (For a fun photo-op, head to King’s Cross Station’s track 9 to find the Platform 9¾ sign, the luggage cart that looks like it’s disappearing into the wall, a Harry Potter gift shop…and a 30-minute wait in line to snap a photo.)
In The Prisoner of Azkaban (2004), a three-decker bus dumps Harry at the Leaky Cauldron pub, shot on rough-looking Stoney Street at the southeast edge of Borough Market.
When the Order takes to the night sky on broomsticks in The Order of the Phoenix (2007), they pass over plenty of identifiable landmarks, including Tower Bridge, the London Eye, and Big Ben. The Millennium Bridge collapses into the Thames in The Half-Blood Prince (2009). The real government offices of Whitehall serve as exteriors for the Ministry of Magic.
Near Bath: In The Sorcerer’s Stone, Harry is chosen for Gryffindor’s Quidditch team in the halls of the 13th-century Lacock Abbey. Harry attends Professor Snape’s class in one of the abbey’s peeling-plaster rooms.
Oxford: Christ Church College provided the model for Hogwarts’ Great Hall. In The Sorcerer’s Stone, Harry sneaks under an invisibility cloak into the Hogwarts Library (really Duke Humfrey’s Library, part of the Bodleian Library), and he awakens in the Hogwarts infirmary (the big-windowed Divinity School of the Bodleian).
Northeast England: In The Sorcerer’s Stone, Harry first walks with his white owl, Hedwig, through a snowy cloister in Durham’s Cathedral, also used in several later films.
For some sights, buying ahead is required (tickets aren’t sold at the sight and it’s the only way to get in). At other sights, buying ahead is recommended to skip the line and save time. And for many sights, advance tickets are available but unnecessary: At these uncrowded sights you can simply arrive, buy a ticket, and go in.
Don’t confuse the reservation options: available, recommended, and required. Use my advice in this book as a guide. Note any must-see sights that sell out long in advance and be prepared to buy tickets early. If you do your research, you’ll know the smart strategy.
Given how precious your vacation time is, I’d book in advance both where it’s required (as soon as your dates are firm) and where it will save time in a long line (in some cases, you can do this even on the day you plan to visit).
You’ll generally be emailed a digital ticket with a code that you’ll store on your phone to scan at the entrance (if you prefer, you can print it out). At the sight, look for the ticket-holders line rather than the ticket-buying line; you may still have to wait in a security line.
SIGHTSEEING PASSES
Many sights in England are managed by either English Heritage or the National Trust. Each organization has a combo-deal that can save some money for busy sightseers.
Membership in English Heritage includes free entry to more than 400 sights in England and discounted or free admission to about 100 more sights in Scotland and Wales. For most travelers, the Overseas Visitor Pass is a better choice than the pricier one-year membership (Visitor Pass: £45/9 days, £53/16 days, discounts for couples and families; membership: £69 for one person, £120 for two, discounts for families, seniors, and students, children under 18 free, www.english-heritage.org.uk/membership; +44 3703 331 182).
Membership in the National Trust is best suited for garden-and-estate enthusiasts, ideally those traveling by car. It covers more than 500 historic houses, manors, and gardens throughout Great Britain, including 100 properties in Scotland. From the US, it’s easy to join online through the Royal Oak Foundation, the National Trust’s American affiliate (one-year membership: single membership-$80, two-person membership-$125, family and student memberships, www.royal-oak.org). For more on National Trust properties, see NationalTrust.org.uk.
Factors to Consider: An advantage to these deals is that you’ll feel free to dip into lesser sights without considering the cost of admission. But remember that your kids already get in free or cheaply at most places, and people over 60 get discounted prices at many sights. If you’re traveling by car and can get to the remote sights, you’re more likely to get your money’s worth out of a pass or membership, especially during peak season (Easter-Oct), when all the sights are open.
AT SIGHTS
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check day packs and coats. (If you’d rather not check your day pack, try carrying it tucked under your arm as you enter.)
At ticket desks, you may see references to “Gift Aid”—a tax-deduction scheme that benefits museums—but this only concerns UK taxpayers.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Audioguides and Apps: I’ve produced free, downloadable audio tours for my Westminster Walk, the British Museum, St. Paul’s Cathedral, and Historic London: The City Walk; look for the 
symbol in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.
Some sights offer audioguides with excellent recorded descriptions. Often you’ll use free Wi-Fi to scan a QR code and access the tour on your phone; less frequently you’ll borrow or rent a device preloaded with the audio content at the museum. Bring your own plug-in earbuds to enjoy better sound (with a splitter, two can often share one rented device).
Tours: Guided tours are most likely to occur during peak season (either for free or for a small fee—figure £5-10—and widely ranging in quality). Some sights also run short introductory videos featuring their highlights and history. These are generally well worth your time and a great place to start your visit.
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Especially in London, some major museums—including both Tate museums—pride themselves on shuffling around their collections every year or two. Some museums may hand out (or sell) paper maps, others offer free apps with the latest map; in a pinch, take a photo of a posted map with your phone. Ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Services: Important sights and cathedrals usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy and air-conditioned places to rejuvenate during a long visit—try a cheap “cream tea” for a midafternoon pick-me-up, like the Brits do). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.
Sleeping
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose places in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to sightseeing.
My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for British traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in Great Britain.
Some people make reservations a few days ahead as they travel. This approach fosters spontaneity, and booking sites make it easy to find available rooms, but—especially during busy times—you run the risk of settling for lesser-value accommodations.
RATES AND DEALS
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant. City taxes, which can vary from place to place, are generally insignificant (a few dollars per person, per night). In London, breakfast is often not included in quoted hotel rates; you can opt out of the pricey hotel breakfast and get it on your own for less.
In Britain, small bed-and-breakfast places (B&Bs) generally provide the best value, though I also include some bigger hotels. Great Britain has a rating system for hotels and B&Bs. Its stars are supposed to imply quality, but I find they mean only that the place is paying dues to the tourist board. Rating systems often have little to do with value.
Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking hotel websites and booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself by phone, by email, or on the hotel’s websites. This increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). When you book direct, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites—in exchange, ask if they can give you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included).
Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show it upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
Staying in B&Bs and small hotels can save money over sleeping in big hotels. Chain hotels can be even cheaper, but they don’t include breakfast. When comparing prices between chain hotels and B&Bs, remember you’re often getting two breakfasts (about a £25 value) for each double room at a B&B.
TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS
Hotels
In cities, you’ll find big, Old World-elegant hotels with modern amenities, as well as familiar-feeling business-class and boutique hotels no different from what you might experience at home. But you’ll also find hotels that are more uniquely European.
Prices are extremely (sometimes shockingly) high in London. A hotel under £130 for a double is bare-bones basic; £130-180 is midrange (decent quality but, most likely, with some quirks and compromises at the low end); and for a really “nice” hotel, you may shell out £300-400 or more. If those prices are too steep, consider a chain hotel (see below) or less expensive alternatives (such as Airbnb). Outside of pricey big cities, you can expect to find good doubles for £80-120, including cooked breakfasts. Bigger cities, swanky B&Bs, and big hotels generally cost significantly more.
A “twin” room has two single beds; a “double” has one double bed. Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
An “en suite” room has a bathroom (toilet and shower/tub) attached to the room; a room with a “private bathroom” can mean that the bathroom is all yours, but it’s across the hall. If you want your own bathroom inside the room, request “en suite.” If money’s tight, ask about a room with a shared bathroom. You’ll almost always have a sink in your room, and as more rooms go en suite, the hallway bathroom is shared with fewer guests.
Note that to be called a “hotel,” a place technically must have certain amenities, including a 24-hour reception (though this rule is loosely applied).
Modern Hotel Chains: Chain hotels—common in bigger cities all over Great Britain—can be a great value (£60-100, depending on location and season; more expensive in London). These hotels are about as cozy as a Motel 6, but they come with private showers/WCs, elevators, good security, and often an attached restaurant. Branches are often located near the train station, on major highways, or outside the city center.
This option is especially worth considering for families, as kids often stay for free. While most of these hotels have 24-hour reception and elevators, breakfast and Wi-Fi generally cost extra and the service lacks a personal touch (at some, you’ll check in at a self-service kiosk). When comparing your options, keep in mind that for about the same price, you can get a basic room at a B&B that has less predictable comfort but more funkiness and friendliness in a more enjoyable neighborhood.
Room rates change from day to day with volume and vary depending on how far ahead you book. The best deals generally must be prepaid a few weeks ahead and may not be refundable—read the fine print carefully.
The biggest chains are Premier Inn (www.premierinn.com) and Travelodge (www.travelodge.co.uk). Both have attractive deals for prepaid or advance bookings. Other chains operating in Britain include Leonardo Hotels (www.leonardohotels.co.uk) and the French-owned Ibis (https://ibis.accor.com). Couples can consider Holiday Inn Express, which generally allows only two people per room. It’s like a Holiday Inn lite, with cheaper prices and no restaurant (make sure Express is part of the name or you’ll be paying more for a regular Holiday Inn, www.ihg.com/holidayinnexpress).
Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.
Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. If stairs are unavoidable, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up to your room.
At check-in, the receptionist may ask for your passport number so they can register your details; they may jot the information down immediately, or they may keep your passport for several hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to give them instead.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV and free Wi-Fi, which can vary in strength and quality. Simpler or characteristic places rarely have a TV or a room phone. Air-conditioning isn’t a given (I’ve noted which of my listings have it), but most places have fans. Electrical outlets may have switches that turn the current on or off; if your appliance isn’t working, flip the switch at the outlet.
Breakfast and Meals: Your room cost usually includes a traditional full cooked breakfast (fry-up) or a lighter, healthier continental breakfast.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it’s smart to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s there.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.
If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a noisy pub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I rarely bother to use one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
B&Bs and Small Hotels
B&Bs and small hotels are generally family-run places with fewer amenities but more character than a conventional hotel. They range from large inns with 15 to 20 rooms to small homes renting out a spare bedroom. Places named “guesthouse” or “B&B” typically have eight or fewer rooms. The philosophy of the management determines the character of a place more than its size and amenities. I avoid places run as a business by absentee owners. My top listings are run by people who enjoy welcoming the world to their breakfast table.
Compared to hotels, B&Bs and guesthouses give you double the cultural intimacy for half the price. While you may lose some of the conveniences of a hotel—such as fancy lobbies and frequent bedsheet changes—I happily make the trade-off for the personal touches, whether it’s joining my hosts for afternoon tea or relaxing by a common fireplace at the end of the day. If you have a reasonable but limited budget, skip hotels and go the B&B way.
B&B proprietors are selective about the guests they invite in for the night. Many do not welcome children. If you’ll be staying for more than one night, you are a “desirable.” In popular weekend-getaway spots, you’re unlikely to find a place to take you for Saturday night only. If my listings are full, ask for guidance. Mentioning this book can help. Owners usually work together and can call up an ally to land you a bed.
Rules and Etiquette: B&Bs and small hotels come with their own etiquette and quirks. Keep in mind that owners are at the whim of their guests—if you’re getting up early, so are they; if you check in late, they’ll wait up for you. Most B&Bs have set check-in times (usually in the late afternoon). If arriving outside that time, they will want to know when to expect you (call or email ahead). Most will let you check in earlier if the room is available (or they’ll at least let you drop off your bag).
Most B&Bs and guesthouses serve a hearty cooked breakfast of eggs and much more (for details on breakfast, see the “Eating” section, later). Because the owner is often also the cook, breakfast hours are usually abbreviated. Typically, the breakfast window lasts for 1 to 1.5 hours (make sure you know when it is before you turn in for the night). Many B&Bs ask you to fill in your breakfast order the night before and select a set time. If selecting a time isn’t required, it’s an unwritten rule that guests shouldn’t show up at the very end of the breakfast period and expect a full cooked breakfast. If you do arrive late (or need to leave before breakfast is served), most establishments are happy to let you help yourself to cereal, fruit, juice, and coffee.
B&Bs and small hotels often come with thin walls and doors, and sometimes creaky floorboards, which can make for a noisy night. If you’re a light sleeper, bring earplugs. And please be quiet in the halls and in your rooms at night...those of us getting up early will thank you for it.
Treat these lovingly maintained homes as you would a friend’s house. Be careful maneuvering your bag up narrow staircases with fragile walls and banisters. And once in the room, use the luggage rack—putting bags on the bed can damage nice bedding.
In the Room: Most B&Bs offer “tea service” in the room—an electric kettle, cups, tea bags, coffee packets, and a pack of biscuits.
Your bedroom probably won’t include a phone, but nearly every B&B has free Wi-Fi. However, the signal may not reach all rooms; you may need to sit in the lounge to access it.
You may encounter unusual bathroom fixtures. The “pump toilet” has a flushing handle or button that doesn’t kick in unless you push it just right: too hard or too soft, and it won’t go. (Be decisive but not ruthless.) If the hot water doesn’t work, you may need to flip a red switch (often located just outside the bathroom).
Paying: Most B&Bs take credit cards but may add the card-service fee to your bill (about 3 percent). If you do need to pay cash for your room, plan ahead to have enough on hand when you check out.
Short-Term Rentals
A short-term rental—whether an apartment (or “flat”), a house, or a room in a private residence—is a popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and VRBO let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com or RentaVilla.com can provide more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive). For a list of rental agencies for London, see here.
Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to public transportation and how well connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-con, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
Think about the kind of experience you want: just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self check-in and minimal contact; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require payment in full before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place for several nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or rental house. These can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.
Rooms in Private Homes: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some are interested in getting to know the travelers who pass through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com.
Hostels
Britain has hostels of all shapes and sizes. Hostels can be historic castles or depressing tenements, serene and comfy or overrun by noisy school groups.
A hostel provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for usually under £50 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel.
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share a booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.
Eating
These days, the stereotype of “bad food in Britain” is woefully dated. Britain has caught up with the fine-food revolution—in fact, they’re right there, leading the vanguard—and I find it’s easy to eat very well here. London, in particular, is one of Europe’s best food destinations.
British cooking has embraced international influences and local, seasonal ingredients, making “modern British” food quite delicious. While some dreary pub food still exists, you’ll generally find the cuisine scene here innovative and delicious (but expensive). Basic pubs are more likely to dish up homemade, creative dishes than microwaved pies, soggy fries, and mushy peas. Even traditional pub grub has gone upmarket, with gastropubs that serve locally sourced meats and fresh vegetables.
All of Britain is smoke-free. Expect restaurants and pubs to be nonsmoking indoors, with smokers occupying patios and doorways outside. You’ll find the Brits eat at about the same time of day as Americans.
For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not tourists. Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
Tipping: At pubs and places where you order at the counter, you don’t have to tip. Regular customers ordering a round sometimes say, “Add one for yourself” as a tip for drinks ordered at the bar—but this isn’t expected. At restaurants and fancy pubs with waitstaff, it’s not necessary to tip if a service charge is already included in the bill (common in London—usually 12.5 percent). Otherwise, it’s appropriate to tip about 10-12 percent; you can add a bit more for finer dining or extra good service. Tip only what you think the service warrants (if it isn’t already added to your bill), and be careful not to tip double.
RESTAURANT PRICING AND HOURS
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a taste of the local cuisine at a reasonable price.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion-swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and refined cuisine.
Most of my restaurant listings are open daily for lunch and dinner; I’ve noted exceptions.
BREAKFAST (FRY-UP)
The traditional fry-up or full English breakfast—generally included in the cost of your room—is famous as a hearty way to start the day. Also known as a “heart attack on a plate,” your standard fry-up is a heated plate with eggs, Canadian-style bacon and/or sausage, a grilled tomato, sautéed mushrooms, baked beans, and sometimes potatoes, kippers (herring), or black pudding (a blood sausage; northern England). Toast comes in a rack (to cool quickly and crisply) with butter and marmalade. The meal is typically topped off with tea or coffee. At a B&B or hotel, it may start with juice and cereal or porridge. Many B&B owners offer vegetarian, organic, gluten-free, or other creative variations on the traditional breakfast.
As much as the full breakfast fry-up is a traditional way to start the morning, some places serve a healthier continental breakfast as well—with a buffet of yogurt, cereal, fruit, and pastries. At some hotels, the buffet may also include hot items, such as eggs and sausage.
LUNCH AND DINNER ON A BUDGET
Even in pricey cities, plenty of inexpensive choices are available: pub grub, daily lunch and early-bird dinner specials, global cuisine, cafeterias, fast food, picnics, greasy-spoon cafés, cheap chain restaurants, and pizza.
I’ve found that portions are huge, and sharing plates is generally just fine. Ordering two drinks, a soup or side salad, and a £10 meat pie to share can make a good, filling meal. If you’re on a limited budget, share a main course in a more expensive place for a nicer eating experience.
Pub grub is the most atmospheric budget option. You’ll usually get hearty lunches and dinners priced reasonably under ancient timbers (see “Pubs,” later). Gastropubs, with better food, are more expensive.
Classier restaurants have some affordable deals. Lunch is usually cheaper than dinner; a top-end, £40-for-dinner-type restaurant often serves the same quality two-course lunch deals for about half the price.
Many restaurants have early-bird or pre-theater specials of two or three courses, often for a significant savings. They are usually available only before 18:30 or 19:00 (and sometimes on weekdays only).
Global cuisine adds spice to Britain’s food scene. Eating Indian, Bangladeshi, Chinese, or Thai is cheap (even cheaper if you do takeout). Middle Eastern shops sell gyros, falafel, and shawarmas (grilled meat in pita bread). An Indian samosa (greasy, flaky meat-and-vegetable turnover) costs about £2 and makes a very cheap, if small, meal. (For more, see “Indian Cuisine,” later.) You’ll find inexpensive, quick Asian options, such as all-you-can-eat buffets and takeaway places serving up standard dishes in to-go boxes.
Fish-and-chips is a heavy, greasy, but tasty British classic. Every town (and every London neighborhood) has at least one “chippy” selling takeaway fish-and-chips in a cardboard box or (more traditionally) wrapped in paper for about £8-10. You can dip your fries in ketchup, American-style, or “go British” and drizzle the whole thing with malt vinegar and fresh lemon.
Most large museums (and many historic churches and castles) have handy, moderately priced cafeterias with decent food.
Picnicking saves time and money. Fine park benches and polite pigeons abound in most towns and city neighborhoods. You can easily get prepared food to go. The modern chain eateries on nearly every corner often have simple seating but are designed for takeout. Bakeries serve a wonderful array of fresh sandwiches and pasties (savory meat pastries). Street markets, generally parked in pedestrian-friendly zones, are fun and colorful places to stock up for a picnic.
Open-air markets and supermarkets sell produce in small quantities. The corner grocery store has fruit, drinks, fresh bread, tasty British cheese, meat, and local specialties. Supermarkets often have good deli sections, even offering Indian dishes, and sometimes salad bars. Decent packaged sandwiches (£3-4) are sold everywhere. Munch a relaxed “meal on wheels” picnic during your open-top bus tour or river cruise to save 30 precious minutes for sightseeing.
PUBS
Pubs are a fundamental part of the British social scene, and whether you’re a teetotaler or a beer guzzler, they should be a part of your travel here. “Pub” is short for “public house.” Each neighborhood has a “local” where everyone gathers. It’s an extended common room where, if you don’t mind the stickiness, you can feel the local pulse. Unfortunately, many city pubs have been afflicted with an excess of brass, ferns, and video slot machines. The most traditional atmospheric pubs are in the countryside and in smaller towns.
It’s interesting to consider the role pubs filled for Britain’s working class in more modest times: For workers with humble domestic quarters and no money for a vacation, a beer at the corner pub was the closest they’d get to a comfortable living room, a place to entertain, and a getaway. And locals could meet people from far away in a pub—today, that’s you!
Though hours vary, pubs generally serve beer daily from 11:00 to 23:00, though many are open later, particularly on Friday and Saturday. (Children are served food and soft drinks in pubs; 16- and 17-year-olds can drink beer, wine, or hard cider with a meal only if they’re accompanied by an adult.)
A cup of darts is free for the asking. People go to a public house to be social. They want to talk. Get vocal with a local. This is easiest at the bar, where people assume you’re in the mood to talk (rather than at a table, where you’re allowed a bit of privacy).
Pub Grub: For £8-15, you’ll get a basic budget hot lunch or dinner in friendly surroundings. In high-priced London, this is your best indoor eating value. (For something more refined, try a gastropub, which serves higher-quality meals for £12-20.) The Good Pub Guide is an excellent resource (https://thegoodpubguide.co.uk). Pubs that are attached to restaurants, advertise their food, and are crowded with locals are more likely to have fresh food and a chef—and less likely to sell only lousy microwaved snacks.
Pubs generally serve traditional dishes, such as fish-and-chips, roast beef with Yorkshire pudding (batter-baked in the oven), and assorted meat pies, such as steak-and-kidney pie or shepherd’s pie (stewed lamb topped with mashed potatoes) with cooked vegetables. Side dishes include salads, vegetables, and—invariably—“chips” (french fries). “Crisps” are potato chips. A “jacket potato” (baked potato stuffed with fillings of your choice) can almost be a meal in itself. A “ploughman’s lunch” is a traditional British meal of bread, cheese, and sweet pickles. These days, you’ll likely find pasta, curried dishes, and quiche on the menu in addition to traditional fare.
Meals are usually served from 12:00 to 14:00 and again from 18:00 to 20:00—with a break in the middle (rather than serving straight through the day). Since they make more money selling beer, many pubs stop food service early in the evening—especially on weekends. There’s generally no table service. Order at the bar, and then take a seat. Either they’ll bring the food when it’s ready or you’ll pick it up at the bar. Pay at the bar (sometimes when you order, sometimes after you eat). It’s not necessary to tip unless it’s a place with full table service. Servings are hearty and service is quick. A beer, cider, or dram of whisky adds another couple of pounds. Free tap water is always available. For details on ordering beer and other drinks, see the “Beverages” section, later. For a list of recommended historic pubs in London, see here.
GOOD CHAIN RESTAURANTS
Several excellent chains with branches across the UK offer long hours, reasonable prices, reliable quality, and a nice break from pub grub. Expect to see these familiar names wherever you go:
$ Pret (a.k.a. Pret à Manger) is perhaps the most pervasive of these modern convenience eateries. Some are takeout only, and others have seating ranging from simple stools to restaurant-quality tables. The service is fast, the price is great, and the food is healthy and fresh. Their slogan: “Made today. Gone today. No ‘sell-by’ date, no nightlife.”
$$ Côte Brasserie is a contemporary French chain serving good-value French cuisine in pleasant settings (early dinner specials).
Two $ chains have reliably good coffee and pastries: Paul (French-style, with croissants, other pastries, and baguette sandwiches) and Ole & Steen (Scandinavian, with generous samples of cinnamon rolls). The coffee at either place is typically better than at the ubiquitous British chains Costa and Nero.
$$ Le Pain Quotidien is a Belgian chain serving fresh-baked bread and hearty meals in a thoughtfully designed modern-rustic atmosphere.
$$ Wagamama, serving pan-Asian cuisine (udon noodles, fried rice, and curry dishes), is a noisy, organic slurpathon. Portions are huge and splittable. There’s one in almost every midsize city in Britain, usually located in sprawling halls filled with long shared tables and busy servers who scrawl your order on the placemat.
$$$ Loch Fyne Restaurant is a Scottish chain that raises its own oysters and mussels. Its branches offer an inviting, lively atmosphere with a fine fishy energy and no pretense (early-bird specials).
$ Marks & Spencer department stores have inviting deli sections with cheery sit-down eating (along with their popular sandwiches-to-go section). M&S food halls are also handy if you’re renting a city flat and want to prepare your own meals.
$$ Busaba is a hit in several cities for its snappy (sometimes rushed) service, boisterous ambience, and good, inexpensive Thai cuisine.
$$ Thai Square is a dependable Thai option with a nice atmosphere (salads, noodle dishes, curries, meat dishes, and daily lunch box specials). Most branches are in London.
$$ Masala Zone is a London chain providing a good, predictable alternative to the many one-off, hole-in-the-wall Indian joints around town. Try a curry-and-rice dish, a thali (platter with several small dishes), or their street-food specials. Each branch has its own personality.
$$ Franco Manca is a taverna-inspired pizzeria serving Neapolitan-style pies using organic ingredients and boasting typical Italian charm. If you skip the pricey drinks, you can feast cheaply here.
$$ Ask and Pizza Express serve quality pasta and pizza in a pleasant, sit-down atmosphere that’s family-friendly.
$$ Japanese: Three popular chains serve fresh and inexpensive Japanese food. Itsu and Wasabi are two bright and competitive chains that let you assemble your own plate in a fun and efficient way, while Yo! Sushi lets you pick your dish off a conveyor belt and pay according to the color of your plate.
Carry-Out Chains: While the following may have some seating, they’re best as places to grab prepackaged food on the run.
Major supermarket chains have smaller offshoot branches that specialize in sandwiches, salads, and other prepared foods to go. These can be a picnicker’s dream come true. Some shops are stand-alone, while others are located inside a larger store. The most prevalent—and best—is M&S Simply Food (an offshoot of Marks & Spencer; there’s one in every major train station). Sainsbury’s Local grocery stores also offer decent prepared food; Tesco Express and Tesco Metro run a distant third.
INDIAN CUISINE
Eating Indian food is “going local” in cosmopolitan, diverse Britain. You’ll find Indian restaurants in most cities, and even in small towns. Take the opportunity to sample food from Britain’s former colony. Indian cuisine is as varied as the country itself, with a symphony of spices—some hot, some sweet. Indian food is very vegetarian-friendly, offering many meatless dishes.
For a simple meal that costs about £12-15, order one dish with rice and naan (Indian flatbread). Generally, one order is plenty for two people to share. Many Indian restaurants feature a fixed-price combination that offers more variety and is simpler and cheaper than ordering à la carte. For about £20, you can make a mix-and-match platter out of several shareable dishes, including dal (simmered lentils) as a starter, one or two meat or vegetable dishes with sauce (for example, chicken curry, chicken tikka masala in a creamy tomato sauce, grilled-fish tandoori, or chickpea chana masala), raita (a cooling yogurt that comes on the side), rice, naan, and an Indian beer (wine and Indian food don’t really mix) or spiced chai (usually served with milk). An easy way to taste a variety of dishes is to order a thali—a sampler plate of various specialties.
AFTERNOON TEA
Once the sole province of genteel ladies in fancy hats, afternoon tea has become more democratic in the 21st century. These days, people of leisure punctuate their day with an afternoon tea at a tearoom. Tearooms, which often serve appealing light meals, are usually open for lunch and close at about 17:00, just before dinner.
The cheapest “tea” on the menu is generally a “cream tea”; the most expensive is the “champagne tea.” Cream tea is simply a pot of tea and a homemade scone or two with jam and thick clotted cream. (For maximum pinkie-waving taste per calorie, slice your scone thin like a miniature loaf of bread.) Afternoon tea—what many Americans would call “high tea”—is a pot of tea, small finger foods (such as sandwiches with the crusts cut off), scones, an assortment of small pastries, jam, and thick clotted cream. Champagne tea includes all the goodies, plus a glass of bubbly. High tea to the English generally means a more substantial late afternoon or early evening meal, often served with meat or eggs.
DESSERTS (SWEETS)
To the British, the traditional word for dessert is “pudding,” although it’s also referred to as “sweets” these days. Sponge cake, cream, fruitcake, and meringue are key players.
Trifle is the best-known British concoction, consisting of sponge cake soaked in brandy or sherry (or orange juice for children), then covered with jam and/or fruit and custard cream. Whipped cream can sometimes put the final touch on this “light” treat.
My chocoholic readers are enthusiastic about British chocolates. As with other dairy products, chocolate seems richer and creamier here than it does in the US, so even standbys such as Mars, Kit Kat (which was invented in York—see here), and Twix have a different taste. Some favorites include Cadbury Gold bars (filled with liquid caramel), Cadbury Crunchie bars, Nestlé’s Lion bars (layered wafers covered in caramel and chocolate), Cadbury’s Boost bars (a shortcake biscuit with caramel in milk chocolate), Cadbury Flake (crumbly folds of melt-in-your-mouth chocolate), Aero bars (with “aerated” chocolate filling), and Galaxy chocolate bars (especially the ones with hazelnuts). Thornton shops (in larger train stations) sell a box of sweets called the Continental Assortment, which comes with a tasting guide. (The highlight is the mocha white-chocolate truffle.) British M&Ms, called Smarties, are better than American ones. Many Brits feel that the ultimate treat is a box of either Nestlé Quality Street or Cadbury Roses—assortments of filled chocolates in colorful wrappers. (But don’t mention the Kraft takeover of Cadbury in 2010—many Brits believe the American company changed the recipe for their beloved Dairy Milk bars, and they’re not happy about it.) At ice-cream vans, look for the beloved traditional “99p”—a vanilla soft-serve cone with a small Flake bar stuck right in the middle.
The British version of custard is a smooth, yellow liquid. Cream tops most everything that custard does not. There’s single cream for coffee. Double cream is really thick. Clotted cream is the consistency of whipped butter.
Fool is a dessert with sweetened pureed fruit (such as rhubarb, gooseberries, or black currants) mixed with cream or custard and chilled. Elderflower is a popular flavoring for sorbet.
Flapjacks here aren’t pancakes, but are dense, sweet oatmeal cakes (like a cross between a granola bar and a brownie). They come with toppings such as toffee and chocolate.
Scones are tops, and many inns and restaurants have their secret recipes. Whether made with fruit or topped with clotted cream, scones take the cake.
BEVERAGES
Beer: British beers come in a variety of styles, from lagers to ales to bitters to stouts. At the pub, order your beer at the bar and pay as you go, with no need to tip. An average beer costs about £4. Part of the experience is standing before a line of hand pulls and wondering which beer to choose. The long handles are for ales that are “pulled” from casks in the cellar (a traditional method preferred by aficionados); short handles pull from standard beer kegs (for more about this, see the “Britain’s Pub Hub” sidebar on here).
As dictated by British law, draft beer and cider are served by the pint (20-ounce imperial size) or the half-pint (9.6 ounces). In 2011, the government sanctioned an in-between serving size—the schooner, or two-thirds pint (it’s become a popular size for higher-alcohol-content craft beers). A popular summer drink is a shandy (half beer and half British “lemonade,” similar to 7-Up).
Whisky: While bar-hopping tourists generally think in terms of beer, many pubs are just as enthusiastic about serving whisky. If you are unfamiliar with whisky (what Americans call “Scotch” and the Irish call “whiskey”), it’s a great conversation starter.
A glass of basic whisky generally costs around £3. Find a pub with a passion for whisky, let a local teach you how to drink it “neat,” then add a little water. Make a friend, buy a few drams, and learn by drinking.
Other Alcoholic Drinks: Many pubs also have a good selection of wines by the glass and a fully stocked bar for the gentleman’s “G and T” (gin and tonic). Pimm’s is a refreshing and fruity summer liqueur, traditionally popular during Wimbledon. It’s an upper-class drink—a rough bloke might insult a pub by claiming it sells more Pimm’s than beer.
Nonalcoholic Drinks: Teetotalers can order from a wide variety of soft drinks—both the predictable American sodas and other more interesting bottled drinks, such as ginger beer, root beers, or other flavors (Fentimans brews some unusual options that are stocked in many pubs).
Staying Connected
A mobile device is an indispensable tool for efficient travel. Fortunately, staying connected in Europe gets less complicated (and less expensive) each year. You can use your devices much like you do at home, by either getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.
USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers unlimited text and low-speed data, plus reasonable per-minute voice calls).
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public transit hubs, and airports, and aboard trains and buses. In Britain, another option is to sign up for Wi-Fi access through a company such as BT (one hour-£5, one day-£8, www.btwifi.co.uk) or The Cloud (free though sometimes slow, www.sky.com/wifi).
Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. Turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) only when you can’t find Wi-Fi.
Save large-data tasks for Wi-Fi. If your included data is slow or metered, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype or FaceTime, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off.
Here’s how to dial from anywhere in the US or Europe, using the phone number of one of my recommended London hotels as an example (020 7730 8191). If a number starts with 0, drop it when dialing internationally (except when calling Italy).
Phone numbers in this book are presented exactly as you would dial them from a US mobile phone. For international access, press and hold 0 (zero) to get a + sign, then dial the country code (44 for Britain) and phone number.
To call the London hotel from any location, dial +44 20 7730 8191.
Replace + with 011 (US/Canada access code), then dial the country code (44 for Britain) and phone number.
To call the London hotel from your home landline, dial 011 44 20 7730 8191.
Replace + with 00 (Europe access code), then dial the country code (44 for Britain, 1 for the US) and phone number.
To call the London hotel from a French landline, dial 00 44 20 7730 8191.
To call my US office from a British landline, dial 00 1 425 771 8303.
To place a domestic call (from a British landline or mobile), drop +44 and dial the phone number (including the initial 0).
To call the London hotel from Edinburgh, dial 020 7730 8191.
Local Numbers: European phone numbers and area codes can vary in length and spacing, even within the same country. Mobile phones use separate prefixes (for instance, in Britain, mobile numbers begin with 07).
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: It’s generally not possible to dial European toll or toll-free numbers from a US mobile or landline (although you can sometimes get through using Skype). Look for a direct-dial number instead.
Calling the US from a US Mobile Phone, While Abroad: Dial +1, area code, and number.
More Phoning Help: See HowToCallAbroad.com.
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, FaceTime, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. WhatsApp is especially popular with Europeans and is often the easiest way to communicate with guides, drivers, or other local contacts.
Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls, you need a local phone number, or your provider’s international data rates are expensive, consider getting a European SIM card to replace the one in your (unlocked) device. SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters, some newsstands (you may need to show your passport), and vending machines. If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop. Some newer devices may also allow you to download an eSIM from an international provider.
Damage Control for Lost Phones: Losing your phone can be a significant inconvenience. Before you leave home, make sure your device is set up for automatic cloud backups, and enable the “find my phone” feature (make sure you have access to it from another device, like your travel partner’s phone or a laptop). Familiarize yourself with your phone’s “lost and lock” mode, which you should enable from another device if your phone goes missing. Report the loss to your mobile carrier; if your phone remains lost, use the “wipe” feature to erase its data.
For details on sending packages to your own home or to others, visit CBP.gov, then select “Travel” and “Know Before You Go.” The British postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com). For postcards, get stamps at the neighborhood post office, newsstands within fancy hotels, and some minimarts and card shops.
Transportation
Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers, and those who want to leave the driving to others. Short-hop flights within Europe can creatively connect the dots. Be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city; with trains and buses you’re at the mercy of a timetable; flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport and leaves a larger carbon footprint.
If your itinerary mixes cities and countryside, my advice is to connect cities by train (or bus) and to explore rural areas by rental car. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.
TRAINS
Regular tickets on Britain’s great train system (15,000 departures from 2,400 stations daily) are the most expensive per mile in all of Europe. For the greatest savings, book online in advance and leave after rush hour (after 9:30 weekdays).
Since some of Britain’s railways have been privatized, a single train route can be operated by multiple companies. However, one website covers all train lines (www.nationalrail.co.uk), and another covers all bus and train routes (www.traveline.info for information, not ticket sales). Another good resource, which also has schedules for trains throughout Europe, is German Rail’s timetable (www.bahn.com).
As with airline tickets, British train tickets can come at many different prices for the same journey. A clerk at any station can figure out the cheapest fare for your trip.
While generally not required, seat reservations are free and can normally be made well in advance or up to two hours before train time. They are an especially good idea for long journeys or for travel on weekends or holidays. Make reservations online (generally at the same time that you buy a ticket, but some railways let you add it later), at any train station, or by phone. You must pay to reserve a bed on the Caledonian Sleeper between London and Scotland (www.sleeper.scot) or Great Western’s Night Riviera between London and Penzance (by phone +44 3457 000 125 or in stations).
For information on the high-speed Eurostar train through the “Chunnel” to Paris, Brussels, or Amsterdam, see here.
Rail Passes
Since Britain’s pay-as-you-go train tickets are some of the most expensive in Europe, BritRail passes can pay for themselves quickly, especially if you ride a long-distance train (for example, between London and Scotland). A rail pass offers hop-on flexibility and no need to lock in reservations, except for overnight sleeper cars and LNER trains.
The BritRail pass (covering England, Scotland, and Wales) and the BritRail England-only pass come in “consecutive day” and “flexi” versions, with price breaks for youths (under age 26), seniors (60 and up), and groups of three or more. Most allow one child under 16 to travel free with a paying adult or senior. If you’re exploring the backcountry with a BritRail pass, second class is a good choice since many of the smaller train lines don’t even offer first-class cars.
Will you be better off buying a rail pass or point-to-point tickets? It pays to know your options and choose what’s best for your itinerary.
A BritRail Pass lets you travel by train in Scotland, England, and Wales for two to eight days within a one-month period, 15 days within two months, or for continuous periods of up to one month. In addition, BritRail sells England-only and other regional passes. Britain is also covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass. Discounted rates are offered for children, youths, and seniors.
While most rail passes are delivered electronically, it’s smart to get your pass sorted before leaving home. For more on rail passes, including current prices and purchasing, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
If you’re taking just a couple of train rides, buying individual point-to-point train tickets may save you money over a pass. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.
Map shows approximate costs, in US dollars, for one-way, second-class tickets at off-peak rates.
Other BritRail options include Scotland-only passes, “London Plus” passes (good for travel in most of southeast England but not in London itself), and South West passes (good for the Cotswolds, Bath, Dorset, Devon, and Cornwall, plus part of South Wales).
Most rail passes are delivered electronically: It’s smart to set this up before you leave home and make reservations for sleeper trains or LNER departures (required with a Eurail pass, mostly running London-York-Newcastle-Edinburgh, www.lner.co.uk/travel-information/make-a-reservation). You can make optional, free seat reservations (recommended for busy weekends) at staffed train stations.
If your travels are taking you from Britain to the Continent, the Eurail Global Pass covers trains on both sides of the English Channel and Eurostar trains beneath it (with a paid seat reservation). It’s generally cheaper to buy one pass for your whole trip than separate, single-country passes. Global passes also come in “consecutive day” and “flexi” versions, with price breaks for youths (under age 28) and seniors (60 and up). Up to two kids under 12 travel free with you on an adult-rate pass.
For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail-pass options for your train trip, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
Buying Tickets
In Advance: The best fares go to those who book their trips well in advance—savings can be significant. For a London-York round-trip (standard class), the peak “anytime” fare is about £160 (usually paid by business travelers) and up to £130 for “off-peak” timing. However, if you book online at least a week ahead, off-peak and advance-purchase discounts can combine for a rate closer to £70. An “advance” fare for the same ticket booked a couple of months out can cost as little as £30. If traveling round-trip on a single line, buy the return ticket at the same time for a big savings over two single (one-way) tickets. If traveling longer distances, such as from Scotland to England, expect higher fares but greater advance discounts.
You’ll get the cheapest fare if you lock in a specific time and train operator, with a nonrefundable or nontransferable ticket. On the other hand, full-fare “anytime” rates are valid on any train on the route within a one- or two-day window (or longer on “open return” tickets). “Off-peak” tickets are similarly flexible outside of rush hours.
Here is a typical example of a personalized train schedule printed out at a British train station (also online at www.nationalrail.co.uk). At the Salisbury station, I told the clerk that I wanted to leave after 16:15 for Moreton-in-Marsh in the Cotswolds. Even though the trip involved two transfers, this schedule allowed me to easily navigate the rails.
Often the conductor on your previous train can tell you from which platform your next train will depart, but it’s wise to confirm. Scrolling overhead screens on the platforms often show arrivals, departures, and intermediate stops; some list train departures by their final destination only. If you are traveling to an intermediate stop and aren’t sure which platform you need, ask any conductor or at the info desk. For example, after checking with the conductor, I know that I’ll need to look for Hereford to catch the train for Moreton-in-Marsh.
Britain’s train system can experience delays, so don’t schedule your connections too tightly if you need to reach your destination at a specific time.
To book ahead, you have several options:
Book online at NationalRail.co.uk. Once you select a train, you’ll be transferred to the website of the company that runs that service, where you can book the ticket. (Choose carefully, as it can be tough to change an online reservation.) Electronic tickets (with a scannable QR code) are increasingly available and the easiest choice; otherwise, you may be able to print out your ticket at home, or you can pick it up at the station. (Note that BritRail pass holders cannot make online seat reservations, except on LNER routes.)
Another option is the Trainline app, where you can check schedules and book tickets, which are available on your phone instantly (the only downside may be difficulty making exchanges).
You can also call +44 3457 484 950 (phone answered 24 hours) to find out the schedule and best fare for your journey; you’ll then be referred to the appropriate vendor—depending on the particular rail company—to book your ticket.
If you’re already in Britain and you’d rather have the flexibility of booking tickets as you go, just swing by any train station and talk to a ticketing agent, who can help you figure out the best option and sell you a ticket straightaway. Plenty of user-friendly ticket machines are also on hand. You can save a few pounds by buying before 18:00 the day before you depart; traveling after the morning rush hour (this usually means after 9:30 Mon-Fri); and going standard class instead of first class. Preview your options on NationalRail.co.uk or the Trainline app.
Senior, Youth, Partner, and Family Deals: To get a third off the price of most point-to-point rail tickets in Great Britain for use within a year, seniors can buy a Senior Railcard (ages 60 and up), younger travelers can buy a 16-25 Railcard (ages 16-25, or full-time students 26 and older), and two people traveling together can buy a Two Together Railcard (ages 16 and over). A Family and Friends Railcard gives adults about 33 percent off for most trips and 60 percent off for their kids ages 5 to 15 (maximum 4 adults and 4 kids). Each Railcard costs £30; for non-UK citizens, it’s best to purchase the card at a staffed rail station in England, Scotland, or Wales, as you need a UK delivery address to buy it online (also sold at some London airports, some cards require passport-type photo, passport needed for proof of age; see www.railcard.co.uk [URL inactive]).
Using Tickets
Larger British train stations—including in London—have turnstiles for accessing the platforms. You’ll need to insert or scan your ticket both to enter the platform and to leave the platform when you arrive at your destination.
There are two general types of tickets. An electronic ticket or rail pass will appear as a QR code on your smartphone. To open the turnstile, hold this code up to the scanner that sits just below the paper-ticket slot.
If you buy a ticket in person at the station, you’ll get a paper ticket about the size of a credit card. At the turnstile, insert this in the slot, and it’ll pop out of another slot for you to reclaim. Once a ticket has been used, the turnstile may not give it back. If you purchase a round-trip ticket, you’ll get separate tickets for each leg.
If you have a paper rail pass, simply show it to the attendant at the turnstile and they will let you through.
BUSES
Although buses are about a third slower than trains, they’re also a lot cheaper. And buses go many places that trains don’t. Most domestic buses are operated by National Express (+44 8717 818 181, www.nationalexpress.com); their international departures are called Eurolines (www.eurolines.de). Note that Brits distinguish between “buses” (for in-city travel with lots of stops) and “coaches” (long-distance cross-country runs)—though for simplicity in this book, I call both “buses.”
A smaller company called Megabus undersells National Express with deeply discounted promotional fares—the further ahead you buy, the less you pay (some trips for just £1.50, www.megabus.com). While Megabus can be much cheaper than National Express, they tend to be slower than their competitor and their routes mainly connect cities, not smaller towns. They also sell train tickets for the East Midlands Railway.
Buy tickets early if you are traveling on Friday or Sunday evening, when weekend travelers are more likely to make buses sell out.
To ensure getting a ticket—and to save money with special promotions—book your ticket in advance online or over the phone. The cheapest prepurchased tickets usually cannot be changed or refunded and must be booked at least two days ahead. Round-trip bus tickets usually cost less than two one-way fares.
If you want to take a bus from your last destination to the nearest airport, you’ll find that National Express often offers airport buses. Bus stations are normally at or near train stations (in London, the main bus station is a block southwest of Victoria Station).
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Most British taxis are reliable and cheap. Often, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. In many cities, you can use an app called Free Now to hail a taxi. This can be a convenient alternative to calling a dispatcher or finding a taxi stand; prices are fixed up-front, and you can pay with a credit card (through the app). For more about taxis in London, see here.
Uber and other ride-booking apps operate in some parts of Europe, and rides can be cheaper than taxis. However, the details may differ from location to location. In some places, Uber works just like back home; in others, the app looks the same, but it hails a regular taxi rather than a private car. Uber is banned in some cities and countries, though sometimes similar companies operate where Uber cannot.
RENTING A CAR
It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (www.autoeurope.com—or the sometimes-cheaper www.autoeurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.
Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
Rental Costs and Considerations
If you book well in advance, expect to pay $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking.
Manual vs. Automatic: Cars with manual transmission are more common in Europe and generally cheaper than automatic. If you need an automatic, it’s wise to book well in advance. An automatic makes sense for most American drivers: With a manual transmission in Britain, you’ll be sitting on the right side of the car and shifting with your left hand...while driving on the left side of the road. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.
Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car rental websites.
Choosing Pick-up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site may seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.
Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, GPS, and fuel-cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.
Be aware that Brits call it “hiring a car,” and directional signs at airports and train stations will read Car Hire.
The AA: The services of Britain’s Automobile Association are included with most rentals (www.theaa.com), but check for this when booking to be sure you understand its towing and emergency road-service benefits.
Car Insurance Options
When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (essentially “free,” but more complicated if you need to use it), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW costs $15-30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your card company about how it works. If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical choice. Both of these options are typically valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland and Italy.
For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.
Navigation Options
If you’ll be navigating using your phone, remember to bring a car charger. Most rental cars are equipped with a USB port so you can run your phone’s GPS through the dashboard display, but it can also be smart to bring a device mount.
Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—provide offline route directions, but you’ll need data access for current traffic.
GPS Devices: Most cars come with a dedicated GPS unit, known as a “satnav” in Britain, though it’s sometimes an add-on cost (about $15-20/day). The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask.
Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with GPS, I always have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone’s GPS stops working. It’s smart to buy a good map before you go or pick one up at a local gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.
Several good road atlases cover all of Britain. Ordnance Survey, Collins, AA, and Bartholomew editions are all available at tourist-information offices, gas stations, and bookstores. The tourist-oriented Collins Touring maps do a good job of highlighting the many roadside attractions you might otherwise drive right past. Before you buy a map, look at it to be sure it has the level of detail you want.
DRIVING IN BRITAIN
Driving here is basically wonderful—once you remember to stay on the left and after you’ve mastered the roundabouts. Every year, however, I get a few notes from traveling readers advising me that, for them, trying to drive in Britain was a nerve-racking and regrettable mistake. If you want to get a little slack on the roads, drop by a gas station or auto shop and buy a green P (probationary driver with license) sign to put in your car window (don’t get the red L sign, which means you’re a learner driver without a license and thus prohibited from driving on motorways).
Many Yankee drivers find the hardest part isn’t driving on the left, but steering from the right. Your instinct is to put yourself on the left side of your lane, which means you may spend your first day or two drifting into the left shoulder or curb. It helps to remember that the driver always stays close to the center line.
Road Rules: Be aware of Britain’s rules of the road. Seat belts are mandatory for all, and kids under age 12 (or less than about 4.5 feet tall) must ride in an appropriate child-safety seat. It’s illegal to use a mobile phone while driving—pull over or use a hands-free device. In Britain, you’re not allowed to turn left on a red light unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on motorways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the left. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or visit TheAA.com and select “Travel”.
Speed Limits: Speed limits are in miles per hour: 30 or 40 mph in town, 70 mph on the motorways, and 60 or 70 mph elsewhere (though, as back home, many British drivers consider these limits advisory). The national sign for the maximum speed is a white circle with a black slash. Motorways have electronic speed-limit signs; posted speeds can change depending on traffic or the weather.
Note that road-surveillance cameras strictly enforce speed limits. Any driver (including foreigners renting cars) photographed speeding will get a nasty bill in the mail. (Cameras—in foreboding gray boxes—flash on rear license plates to respect the privacy of anyone sharing the front seat with someone they shouldn’t.) Signs (an image of an old-fashioned camera) alert you when you’re entering a zone that may be monitored by these “camera cops.”
Roundabouts: Don’t let a roundabout spook you. After all, you routinely merge into much faster traffic on American highways. Traffic flows clockwise, and cars already in the roundabout have the right-of-way; entering traffic yields (look to your right as you merge). You’ll probably encounter “double roundabouts”—figure-eights where you’ll slingshot from one roundabout directly into another. Just go with the flow and track signs carefully. When approaching an especially complex roundabout, you’ll first pass a diagram showing the layout and the various exits. And in many cases, the pavement is painted to indicate the lane you should be in for a particular road or town.
Freeways (Motorways): The shortest distance between any two points is usually the motorway (what we’d call a “freeway”). In Britain, the smaller the number, the bigger the road. For example, the M-4 is a freeway, while the B-4494 is a country road.
Motorway road signs can be confusing, too few, and too late. Miss a motorway exit and you can lose 30 minutes. Study your map before taking off. Know the cities you’ll be lacing together, since road numbers are inconsistent. British road signs are not often marked with compass directions (e.g., A-4 West); instead, you need to know what major town or city you’re heading for (A-4 Bath). The driving directions in this book are intended to be used with a good map. Get a road atlas, easily purchased at gas stations in Britain, or download digital maps before your trip (see here).
Unless you’re passing, always drive in the “slow” lane on motorways (the lane farthest to the left). The British are very disciplined about this; ignoring this rule could get you a ticket (or into a road-rage incident). Remember to pass on the right, not the left.
Rest areas are called “services” and often have a number of useful amenities, such as restaurants, cafeterias, gas stations, shops, and motels.
Fuel: Gas (petrol) costs about $7.50 per gallon and is self-serve. Pump first and then pay; you may have to pay inside.
Diesel costs about the same. Diesel rental cars are common; make sure you know what kind of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Unleaded pumps are usually green. Note that gas stations often accept only a contactless credit card or cash.
Driving in Cities: Whenever possible, avoid driving in cities. Be warned that London assesses a congestion charge (see here). Most cities have modern ring roads to skirt the congestion. Follow signs to the parking lots outside the city core—most are a 5- to 10-minute walk to the center—and avoid what can be an unpleasant grid of one-way streets (as in Bath) or roads that are available only to public transportation during the day (as in Oxford).
Driving in Rural Areas: Outside the big cities and except for the motorways, British roads tend to be narrow. In towns, you may have to cross over the center line just to get past parked cars. Adjust your perceptions of personal space: It’s not “my side of the road” or “your side of the road,” it’s just “the road”—and it’s shared as a cooperative adventure. If the road’s wide enough, traffic in both directions can pass parked cars simultaneously, but frequently you’ll have to take turns—follow the locals’ lead and drive defensively.
Narrow country lanes are often lined with stone walls or woody hedges—and no shoulders. Some are barely wide enough for one car (one-lane roads are often referred to as “single-track” roads). Go slowly, and if you encounter an oncoming car, look for the nearest pullout (or “passing place”)—the driver who’s closest to one is expected to use it, even if it means backing up to reach it. If another car pulls over and blinks its headlights, that means, “Go ahead; I’ll wait to let you pass.” British drivers—arguably some of the most courteous on the planet—are quick to offer a friendly wave to thank you for letting them pass (and they appreciate it if you reciprocate).
Etiquette demands you always stick to the left part of the road. In other words, never cross over to a passing place that’s intended for the “other” lane; rather, wait on the left side, in your own lane, and let the oncoming car use the passing place to get around you. (Some travelers, attempting to be helpful, try to pull over into the oncoming lane’s passing place to get out of their way—but this just confuses the system.)
In general, pull over frequently—to let faster locals pass and to check the map. But don’t park in passing places.
Parking: Pay attention to pavement markings to figure out where to park. One yellow line marked on the pavement means no parking Monday through Saturday during work hours. Double yellow lines mean no parking at any time. Broken yellow lines mean short stops are OK, but you should always look for explicit signs or ask a passerby. White lines mean you’re free to park.
In towns, rather than look for street parking, I generally just pull into the most central and handy pay-and-display parking lot I can find. Rates are reasonable by US standards. To pay and display, tap your card (or, less commonly, pay with change—it’s smart to keep coins handy), receive a timed ticket, and display it on the dashboard or stick it to the driver’s-side window. In some places, you can pay by scanning a QR code and inputting your car’s license plate number. The RingGo app lets you pay for street parking on your phone (no coins required, https://ringgo.co.uk).
Some parking garages (a.k.a. car parks) are automated and record your license plate with a camera when you enter. The Brits call a license plate a “number plate” or just “vehicle registration.” The payment machine will use these terms when you pay before exiting.
FLIGHTS
To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: Easy-to-use Google Flights is the top site for flights to and within Europe, Kayak has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book, be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.
Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another.
Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet or Ryanair. Other airlines to consider include Jet2 (www.jet2.com), TUI Airways (www.tui.co.uk), and Brussels Airlines (with frequent connections from Heathrow to its Brussels hub, www.brusselsairlines.com).
Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and a larger carbon footprint than that of a train or bus.
Flying to the US: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
Resources from Rick Steves
Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com
My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, beautiful photos, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and X (formerly Twitter).
Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards, where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/forums).
Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).
Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).
Rick Steves’ Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More
Small-Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year about 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to book a tour, visit RickSteves.com/tours or call us at +1 425 771 8303.
Books: This book is just one of many in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket Guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European Art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows and Video Library: My public-television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with more than 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year. Watch full episodes for free (RickSteves.com/tv). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (Classroom.RickSteves.com).
Monday Night Travel Talks: To raise your travel IQ, join our virtual travel party every Monday featuring Rick Steves guides discussing European destinations, art, culture, food, travel tips, and more. Join the live events or check out the video recordings (RickSteves.com/mnt).
Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced 60 free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, visit RickSteves.com/audioeurope.
Radio: My weekly public-radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public-radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.
Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a selection of video clips from my public-television show and video recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/podcasts).