BLACKPOOL
Blackpool is Britain’s quintessential seaside resort. There’s a place for everyone: fancy vacationers paying top dollar for sea-view hotels with every amenity, families with kids out for some amusement park fun, and partiers and regular folks reveling in a sticky mix of Coney Island, Las Vegas, and Denny’s. Some people love it...others hate it. But it is, without a doubt, a spectacle. And it’s real.
Blackpool grew up in the 1800s with the Industrial Revolution. Back then, it was a working-class vacation resort; entire mill towns would close down and take a two-week break here. Workers came to drink in the fresh air and, literally, the seawater (they figured it was healthy).
By the 1860s, little Blackpool (population 4,000) entertained 200,000 visitors a year. In the old days, conditioned by a world without central heating, people happily sat on Blackpool’s sand even if the weather was cold and windy. Long piers were built to hold amusements and dance pavilions. From the ends of the jetties, excursion steamers took holiday-goers to North Wales and the Isle of Man.
By the 1960s, cheap package tours were enticing working people to sunny and hot vacation spots outside England. Blackpool, overbuilt with too many hotels, began attracting low-end tourism (“stag” and “hen”—bachelor and bachelorette—parties), changing the character of the town. Even so, Blackpool remains an accessible and affordable fun zone for north Englanders—for them, the town is part of their DNA. And the beaches still attract vacationers, some for annual visits.
Blackpool’s an interesting mix. Some parts have an ears-pierced-while-you-wait, tipsy-toupee kind of atmosphere. Huge arcade halls broadcast bingo numbers into the streets; the wind machine under a wax Marilyn Monroe blows at a steady gale; and the smell of fries, tobacco, and sugar is everywhere. Tacky, yes. Lowbrow, OK. A little run-down in parts, sure. But if you like the idea of an old-fashioned beach holiday with no pressure to be anyone or do anything, this place has a lot of appeal. If you have kids, they’ll really enjoy Blackpool (hey, it’s cheaper than Disneyland). And for those who are into nightlife, this town delivers. If you believe (as I do) that an itinerary should feature as many different facets of a culture as possible, consider a stop here. Blackpool is as English as the King—and considerably more fun.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
Ideally, get to Blackpool around lunchtime for an afternoon and evening of making the scene. Longtime fans of the city say the secret of Blackpool is to create family memories (like Disneyland does for Americans). It’s a place to do something: dance, scream down a roller coaster, take in a show or amusement, succumb to a fortune-teller. A good overall plan is to ride the tram down to the Pleasure Beach amusement park, then walk back along the waterfront to Blackpool Tower and the North Pier, dipping into whatever fun zones appeal. To find a more pristine beach, just keep walking north.
The evening light here is great, with the sun setting over the sea. Walk out along the peaceful North Pier at twilight. During the Blackpool Illuminations festival, much of the waterfront is decorated with lights, drawing crowds in fall, particularly on weekends (Sept-early Jan).
Blackpool is easy by car or train. Speed demons with a car can treat it as a midday break (it’s just off the M-6, on the M-55) and continue north. If the weather’s great and you love nature, the lakes are just two hours north. A visit to Blackpool sharpens the wonders of Windermere.
Orientation to Blackpool
Everything clusters along the Promenade, a tacky, glittering, six-mile-long beachfront good-time strip mall punctuated by three fun-filled piers reaching out into the sea. The Pleasure Beach rides are near the South Pier. Jutting up near the North Pier is Blackpool’s stubby Eiffel-type tower. The most interesting shops, eateries, and theaters are inland from the North Pier. For a break from glitz, walk north along the Promenade beyond the commercial zone, following the sandy beach where a residential neighborhood stretches for miles. When you’ve had enough, just hop on the tram or a bus for a quick ride back.
TOURIST INFORMATION
The helpful TI is in a modern building called the Festival House on the Promenade, north of the Blackpool Tower, near Church Street (daily 9:00-17:00; +44 1253 478 222; www.visitblackpool.com). The free Blackpool Events Guide lists local happenings; the TI staff can book shows and sell tickets to many of Blackpool’s attractions—including Blackpool Tower and its various sights and Madame Tussauds—though it may be cheaper and easier to book online. Depending on the attractions you want to visit, you may save money with the various combo-tickets; ask the TI for details.
ARRIVAL IN BLACKPOOL
By Train: The main train station (Blackpool North) is three blocks from the town center. From the station, Talbot Road leads to the North Pier and the Promenade.
By Car: The motorway funnels you down Yeadon Way into a giant parking zone. Day-trippers can park here or head for one of the huge pay garages. If you’re spending the night, my recommended accommodations are mostly north of the center, on the Promenade, and have easy parking.
HELPFUL HINTS
Baggage Storage: The Station Café across from the train station offers a left-luggage service (£5/bag, daily 8:30-15:30, 24 High Street, +44 7741 578 386).
Car Rental: If you decide to tour the Lake District by car, you’ll find rental agencies in Blackpool, such as Avis/Budget (closed Sat afternoon and Sun, at the airport—2 miles south of the South Pier, +44 1253 209 188).
GETTING AROUND BLACKPOOL
By Public Transportation: Trams trundle up and down the waterfront, connecting all the sights. This electric tramway—the first in Europe—dates from 1885 (£3.20/ride, pay conductor, about 4/hour).
Many buses also run along the Promenade (£2-3 depending on length of trip, buy on board). A day pass covers both trams and buses (£6 from driver or online). Buses that run south to St. Annes and Lytham depart from Market Street, just north of Church Street. For bus information, call Blackpool Transport office (Mon-Sat 11:00-15:00, closed Sun, +44 1253 473 001) or message them on Facebook (weekdays 8:30-16:00, more information at www.blackpooltransport.com).
By Taxi: Cabs are easy to snare in Blackpool, and three to five people travel cheaper in a taxi than by tram. Hotels can get you a taxi by phone within a few minutes (no extra charge).
Sights in Blackpool
▲▲People-Watching
Blackpool’s top sight is its people. You’ll see England here as nowhere else. Grab someone’s hand and a big baton of “rock” (hard candy), and stroll. Grown men walk around with huge teddy bears looking for places to play “bowlingo,” a short-lane version of bowling. Psychics with celebrity photos in their windows promise to reveal your future. Horses clop by, pulling Cinderella carriages. Kids ride donkeys on the beach. This place puts people in a talkative mood. Start conversations. Ask a young couple on the street, “What’s there to do here?” Find someone to explain the difference between tea and supper. Back at your hotel, join in the chat sessions in the lounge.
The Town and the Promenade
Stretching from the North Pier to Blackpool Tower, the old town center fills the area a few blocks inland from the beach. Wander this zone and do the promenade, and that’s pretty much Blackpool. The streets feel a bit run-down and past their prime. The challenge is to grab snippets of the days when this was a thriving resort.
The Winter Gardens, built in 1878, provided shelter when blustery weather drove visitors off the beach. Buried in the town center (at the intersection of Adelaide and Coronation streets), this grand entertainment complex includes a Victorian floral hall, an opera house, and cafés and bars that cater to the gray-haired set.
The seaside promenade has a certain draw. Classic “Heritage Trams” (some single deck, some double deck, some with open tops) stoke the nostalgia. Your options are a one-hour Promenade Tour (which makes the two-mile trip from the North Pier to the South Pier and back again, £6, 3/hour) and a two-hour Coastal Tour (which heads north all the way to Fleetwood and back, £8, frequency varies with season). In winter, they offer an Illuminations tour as well (see https://blackpoolheritage.com for details, book online or pay on tram).
One tiny bit of the century-old charm of the original resort survives in Roberts’ Oyster Bar (across from the TI at 90 Promenade). This little spot has served strollers in the mood for an oyster, whelk, or winkle since 1876. (Notice the building—it must be the oldest on the waterfront.) Explore your world of options and then fill a tub with the sampling of your choice. Or, just grab a seafood platter to take away or munch at a little view table on the sidewalk.
The stretch of the promenade from the Tower to the Central Pier is the “Golden Mile.” While far from golden or a mile, this has been the fun zone since the 1970s. The origin of the shops and amusements here goes back to a day when unseemly salespeople and hustlers worked the beach. They were eventually expelled from the seafront and set up shop in the front yards of the hotels that once lined the promenade. The hotels have moved on, but the ancestors of those first tacky souvenir stands and amusements survive.
In front of the Tower, the promenade bulges out. This is a modern shoring-up of the beachfront embankment, part of Britain’s defense system to fight a rising sea level resulting from climate change. The pavement hosts the entertaining Comedy Carpet—a walk-on, public-art installation made in homage to the hundreds of British comedians who’ve worked here at Blackpool, with hundreds of their jokes embedded in the concrete surface.
▲▲The Piers
Blackpool’s famous piers were originally built for Victorian landlubbers who wanted to go to sea but were afraid of getting seasick. Each of the three amusement piers has its own personality and is a joy to wander (all are free and open with demand Easter-early Nov, and then weekends only through the winter). Rides operate on a token system (buy tokens from kiosks along the pier). Each pier has its own family-friendly bar, where kids are welcome all the time (typically open from about 11:00 until 17:00 or 18:00, but much later—about 23:00—in summer and on weekends). Note: For such a family-oriented place, public WCs are surprisingly scarce. You’ll find them in the arcades at the North and Central piers and at the end of the Central Pier just beyond the Ferris wheel. At the South Pier—good luck.
The North Pier is my favorite. The oldest and longest of the piers, this was the birthplace of the resort in the 1860s. For 150 years (until just a few years ago), the pier charged admission. As you enter, on the left side, an information panel lists facts about the pier’s history. Other panels scattered throughout the pier reveal more of the interesting story. Stroll the sedate planked deck, which rests on the original cast-iron supports. As you walk, remember that Victorian resort-going was all about seeing and being seen. This is the most traditional and refreshingly uncluttered of the piers, and it’s particularly nice at twilight. At the very tip are a beautiful old carousel, a big theater offering live music, and an elegant bar with fantastic views and the sea washing below the planks under your feet.
The Central Pier, with something for everyone, is lots of fun. Ride its Ferris wheel for the best view in Blackpool (rich photography at twilight; get the operator to spin you as you bottom out). The Family Bar at the end of the pier is a hit with kids.
The South Pier is the rollicking pier, with classic carnival rides, such as bumper cars and carousels. The two pricey adventure rides—Skycoaster and Skyscreamer—treat riders like rocks in a giant slingshot.
From the far end of any pier, look out at the horizon to see the natural-gas drilling platforms in the Irish Sea. In the distance, off the North Shore, castaway wind turbines capture energy.
▲Blackpool Tower
This mini Eiffel Tower, an 1894 vertical fun center, is the symbol of Blackpool. While you can roam around several floors of its core for free, its three main attractions—the view from the top, the circus, and the ballroom—charge admission. Other amusements include dinosaur mini golf (£3.50) and a view bar at the top.
Cost and Hours: Tickets are required to enter the attractions; see website for complete pricing options; pay via contactless cards or payment apps only—no cash accepted; kid, family, and Madame Tussauds combo-tickets available, may be cheaper if you buy online. Open daily from 10:00, closing times vary per attraction and with the season, +44 1253 622 242, www.theblackpooltower.com.
Visiting the Tower: An elevator zips up to the 518-foot-high Blackpool Tower Eye (£16.50). From here, you can stroll across the “SkyWalk” glass floor and enjoy a smashing view, especially at sunset, and watch a “4-D” movie (3-D plus other startling effects).
The Blackpool Tower Circus is what you would expect but with no animals. There are generally several two-hour shows daily in summer (adults-£19.50, kids-£17.50, shows run Easter through Oct, closed sometimes on Mon and Fri in shoulder season).
The Blackpool Tower Ballroom is an elegant spectacle with live organ music where golden oldies dance to golden oldies all day (£10, organist plays daily 10:30-16:30). While you can watch from the balcony, the real experience is to be on the old ballroom floor, dancing. Seniors are happy to coach you in the WWII-era moves. The ballroom, serving a traditional afternoon tea, is a memorable place for lunch (£50 for two if booked online, includes ballroom admission). The ballroom (recently restored to its former glory) also hosts ballroom dance competitions. The 2021 movie musical Cinderella was filmed here, as was a music video by the group the Killers, produced by Tim Burton (who also filmed his 2016 movie Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children at various locations in Blackpool).
Madame Tussauds Blackpool
Just south of the Blackpool Tower, this sister to the famous waxworks in London features eerily realistic wax copies of famous people with whom you can pose for a hundred goofy photos. While the London Tussauds focuses on international stars, the one in Blackpool (understanding its target audience) focuses on British celebs: The average American likely won’t be too excited by the figure of superstar competitive dart-thrower Phil Taylor.
Cost and Hours: £20, cheaper online, Blackpool Tower combo-ticket available; hours vary but generally daily 11:00-16:00, near the Central Pier on the Promenade, +44 1253 375 183, www.madametussauds.com.
▲Pleasure Beach Amusement Park
Rated ▲▲▲ for roller-coaster enthusiasts, this 42-acre park attracts nearly six million visitors annually and is littered with rides galore, ice and illusion shows, and varied amusements. The Nickelodeon Land area features rides and characters tied into the popular children’s TV network. Many rides are tame enough for the under-10 set, but the top few offer some of the best thrills in Europe: the Big One (with a peak of 235 feet and reaching 75 mph, it’s one of the world’s fastest, highest, and steepest roller coasters), the Infusion (a twisty, loopy speed rush), and the Ice Blast (which rockets you straight up before you bungee down). Also memorable is the Steeplechase—carousel horses stampeding down a roller-coaster track (a dream come true for Mary Poppins fans). The Revolution speeds you over a steep drop and upside down in a loop, then does it again backward, while the Valhalla ride zips you on a Viking boat in watery darkness past scary Nordic things like lutefisk. With two 80-foot drops and lots of hype, first you’re scared, then you’re soaked, and—finally—you’re just glad you survived. Wallace and Gromit’s Thrill-O-Matic zips you through some of the duo’s most iconic adventures. The park also offers several old wooden-framed rides full of historic charm—but brittle travelers will want to consider their necks and backs.
Cost: Adults-£36-46, kids over age 3-£30-40, prices vary by month and day, cheaper in advance online. You can print etickets ahead of time or at the park, or just show the QR code on your phone.
Hours: Daily Easter-early Nov, also open some weekends in Nov and Feb-Easter; opens at about 10:00 and closes as early as 17:00 or as late as 20:00 (and possibly later) depending on season, weather, and demand—check website; closed entirely Dec-Jan, +44 871 222 1234, www.blackpoolpleasurebeach.com.
Avoiding Lines: The park can be jam-packed in summer (July-Aug) and on school holidays; during these times, try to arrive early (if you need your ticket printed out, the ticket office opens 30 minutes before the park). If lines are horrendous, consider a Speedy Pass, which alerts you when it’s your turn to board a ride—without you having to wait in line (£25 extra, not available for all rides or at all times, order online in advance or at the park).
Getting There: Pleasure Beach is on Ocean Boulevard, opposite the South Pier. It’s about two miles (a 45-minute walk) south of the North Pier, so consider taking the tram; there’s a stop just outside the park entrance.
Sandcastle Waterpark
This popular indoor attraction, across the street from Pleasure Beach, has a big pool, long slides, a wave machine, and water, water, everywhere, at a constant temperature of 84 degrees. Featuring the longest tube waterslide in the world (called “Master Blaster”), this is a place where most kids could easily spend a day—but you’re limited to a three-hour session.
Cost and Hours: Adults-£24 for 3 hours, kids 3 to 11-£15-20; must book online in advance; daily April-Oct—hours vary with day and season—best to check your dates online, open weekends only Jan-March, closed or limited hours Nov-Dec; last admission one hour before closing, +44 1253 343 602, www.sandcastle-waterpark.co.uk.
Blackpool Illuminations
Blackpool was the first town in England to “go electric” in 1879. Now, every fall, from September through early January, Blackpool stretches its tourist season by illuminating its six miles of waterfront with countless lights, all blinking and twinkling. People here speak with wonder about these lights. For many, it’s a ritual that has been part of their family story for generations. The American in me kept saying, “I’ve seen bigger, and I’ve seen better,” but I stuffed his mouth with cotton candy and just had some simple fun like everyone else on my specially decorated tram. If you’re not here for the actual Illuminations season, you’ll see the promenade still strung with countless light bulbs and can imagine the spectacle (for details, see www.visitblackpool.com).
St. Annes-on-Sea and Lytham
Had enough greasy food and flashing lights? The dual seaside towns of St. Annes and Lytham are an easy bus ride south of Blackpool and offer a welcome break (buses #17 and #11 run from Market Street, just north of Church Street, every 15 minutes, 30 minutes to St. Annes, 45 minutes to Lytham, covered by the tram/bus day pass).
Get off at St. Annes Square, which is the first stop after the bus turns left following the long, dune-side straightaway. The town’s promenade and the end of the simple Victorian pier (once you pass the noisy game arcade) feel like a breath of sanity. The broad sand beach is perfect for flying a kite, building a sandcastle, or watching happy dogs play in the surf. Consider strolling the beach northward all the way to the southern edge of the Promenade (about three miles—you can see the Pleasure Beach roller coasters from here); if you max out on sand and sea before that, simply cross the dunes back to the seaside road and find the nearest bus stop.
Little Lytham, a bit farther south (get off at Lytham Square), is best known for the Royal Lytham and St. Annes Golf Club—the site of several British Open tournaments. Lytham also hosts an annual weeklong music festival, featuring some big-name acts, at the end of June.
Nightlife in Blackpool
▲Live Theater in Blackpool
Blackpool always has a few razzle-dazzle music, dancing girl, racy humor, magic, and tumbling shows. Box offices around town can give you a rundown on what’s available (£10-50 tickets). Your hotel has the latest. Blackpool is also a staging ground for some London West End plays—giving you a chance to enjoy a show for a fraction of the London cost.
You might try the Opera House at the Winter Gardens for musicals (+44 1253 629 600, www.wintergardensblackpool.co.uk) and the Grand Theatre, a treasure built in 1894, for drama, ballet, and musicals (£15-40, +44 1253 290 190, www.blackpoolgrand.co.uk). Both are on Church Street, a couple of blocks behind the Blackpool Tower. For the latest in evening entertainment, see the window displays at the TI on the Promenade or check VisitBlackpool.com.
Viva Blackpool is a newer venue with musicals and comedy shows alternating nightly. Expect tribute shows to the Beatles, ABBA, or soul music. It’s a very English scene, with cabaret seating for up to 600 (£22-30, drinks and meals extra, on the Promenade just north of the Tower at 3 Church Street, +44 1253 297 297, www.vivablackpool.com).
▲▲Funny Girls
Funny Girls puts on a “glam bam thank you ma’am” burlesque-in-drag show that delights footballers and grannies alike most nights (with breaks and DJ music). A troupe of a dozen or so gorgeous guys goes through an entire wardrobe, putting on skits and dances that range from the Charleston to Beyoncé to a very vampy Sound of Music. Between songs, the high-heeled MC entertains.
Get your drinks at the bar...unless the performers are dancing on it. The show, while racy, is not raunchy. The music is very loud. The crowd is young, old, straight, gay, very down-to-earth, and fun-loving. A weeknight is both a less expensive and a less crushed experience; Fridays and Saturdays are jammed. While the area up front can be a mosh pit, there are more sedate tables in back, where service comes with a vampish smile. If you want to experience the show without standing, immersed in a bar crowd, pay extra to sit at a table (4- to 6-person shared tables, reservations smart Fri-Sat).
Getting Tickets: Admission is charged according to whether you’re sitting or standing (£7.50-10 to stand, £19.50-28 to sit, price depends on day of the week, burgers and snacks available during show). Getting dinner in the adjacent restaurant before the show runs £22-25 (dinner reservations required a couple of days in advance) and gets you a discount on the ticket price. You must be 18 to enter, and standing-room tickets are usually available at the door (doors open at 19:00). To reserve in advance, go online, buy from the TI, call +44 1253 649 150, or visit the box office (5 Dickson Road, www.funnygirlsshow.co.uk).
Other Nightspots
More than 100 years old, The Mitre pub serves beer in a cozy, truly rare, old-time Blackpool ambience. Drop in anytime to survey the fun photos of old Blackpool and for the great people scene (real ales and cheap meals, daily, 3 West Street, +44 1253 623 718). Another pub in the center that is more traditional than rowdy (though admittedly touristy) is Scruffy Murphy’s Irish pub on Corporation Street (live music most weekends, +44 1253 624 538).
Blackpool’s clubs and discos are cheap, with live bands and an interesting crowd (nightly). With all the stag and hen parties, the late-night streets can be clogged with rude rowdies on Fridays and Saturdays.
Sleeping in Blackpool
Blackpool’s 140,000 people provide 120,000 beds in 3,500 mostly dumpy, cheap, nondescript hotels and B&Bs. Remember, this town’s in the business of accommodating the people who can’t afford to go to Spain. Empty beds abound except summer weekends and from September through early January (during Illuminations, when everyone bumps up prices). With the huge number of hotels in town, prices get really soft off-season. But be aware that many of the nicer places have two-night minimum stays.
NORTH OF THE TOWER
These listings are on or near the waterfront in the quiet “posh end,” a mile or two north of Blackpool Tower, with easy parking, access to the center by tram or bus, and miles of lovely beach to explore. (In the early days, this is where the managers stayed, while the workers stayed downtown.) The first listing has classy extras and isn’t far from the North Pier. The last three are B&Bs with welcoming owners and lots of stairs, a short tram ride or approximately 35-minute walk from the North Pier.
$ The Imperial Hotel would like to brag that it’s where the monarch would stay in Blackpool. (They boast that every prime minister since they opened in 1867 has visited their #10 Bar.) With 180 rooms, it’s the kind of grand, monumental hotel they don’t make anymore, with a dark-paneled Old World elegance (some rates include breakfast, ask about dinner specials for guests, elevator, pay parking, tram stop: Wilton Parade, North Promenade, +44 1253 623 971, www.imperialhotelblackpool.co.uk, reception@imperialhotelblackpool.co.uk). They also serve a daily afternoon tea (£20.50).
$ The Fossil Tree Hotel has a mod Marriot vibe with a big welcoming breakfast room and nine spacious rooms with king-size beds and sea views. If you don’t mind the stairs, ask for a top-floor room, which features great views over the beach and sea (2-night minimum, no children, free parking, tram stop: Lowther Avenue, 30 yards north of hotel; 1.5 miles north of tower across from a peaceful stretch of beach, 100 Queen’s Promenade, North Shore, +44 1253 351 599, https://fossiltree.co.uk, info@fossiltree.co.uk, Chris and Christine).
$ The Windsor Park Hotel, next door to the Fossil Tree, has 10 rooms with charming decor (four have sea views), velvety red and black carpet in the hallways and breakfast room, and a lovely sun lounge where you can bring drinks from the bar and watch the world go by (2-night minimum, no children, free parking, 96 Queen’s Promenade, +44 1253 357 025, www.windsorparkhotelblackpool.com, windsorparkblackpool@outlook.com, Daniel).
¢ The Beechcliffe Hotel has eight cheerful, beautifully updated rooms, some with original stained-glass windows. It’s run with a homey touch by friendly Lorraine and Bryan (ages 35+ only, 2-night minimum on weekends, free parking, tram stop: Cabin—go north from the tram stop, then right at Shaftesbury Avenue, and walk a block away from the beach; 16 Shaftesbury Avenue, North Shore, +44 1253 353 075, https://thebeechcliffehotel.co.uk, info@thebeechcliffe.co.uk).
NEAR THE TRAIN STATION
These hotels are located on quiet Cocker Street, in a handy, if less-than-genteel, neighborhood just a few short blocks from the train station. These family-run hotels cater to couples and families rather than to revelers. To reach them by tram, get off at the Pleasant Street stop, head right along the promenade (toward the tower), then turn left on Cocker Street.
$ The Lonsdale Hotel offers four big rooms in an oasis of peace behind a lush front porch garden. The plush lounge—with Edwardian paintings and furnishings and a grand piano—takes you to another era. Steve and Karl have managed the place for 35 years, and their pride of ownership shows (2-night minimum, no children, free parking, 25 Cocker Street—at the corner with Lord Street, +44 1253 293 138, no website—email to book direct, lonsdalehotel@hotmail.co.uk). The “Royal Edwardian Suite” is truly palatial.
¢ The Valdene Hotel, with a small brick terrace facing the street, rents 10 nicely updated rooms above its generous lounge. This is about your cheapest option in Blackpool, but the rooms are tight (breakfast extra, family rooms, 2-night minimum, 16 Cocker Street, +44 1253 291 080, www.valdenehotelblackpool.com, bookings@valdenehotelblackpool.com).
Eating in Blackpool
Generally, food in the Tower and along the Promenade is terrible. But if you explore the streets in the real town center, a few blocks up from the Promenade, you’ll find some decent options.
NEAR ST. JOHN’S CHURCH
The pedestrianized area around St. John’s Church is fronted by several popular eateries. Most of these places are only open until 16:30 or 17:00, when the downtown clears out. Trendy cafés such as $ Number Five line the top of the square (open daily). To fill the tank, head to $ Quilligans, a local favorite, across from the church. This kitschy, retro Blackpool diner suits the city’s lowbrow aesthetic perfectly, with huge portions of comfort food (daily, +44 1253 292 299). At the bottom of the square, $ West Coast Rock Café is popular with teens for its big portions and cheap prices (brave the raucous entrance, and you’ll find pleasant family dining upstairs). The $ Hive coffee shop is popular with locals for its soups, sandwiches, salads, and bakery items (daily, 80 Church Street, +44 1253 584 238).
Carryout Options near St. John’s Church: These places are good options for takeaway food; you can sit on a bench outside St. John’s, or—better yet—head for the beach. $ Abingdon Barbeque, with its expansive deli counter, is mobbed with hungry locals at lunch, munching on cheap roasted chicken and meat pies (daily, takeaway only, 44 Abingdon Street, +44 1253 621 817). Marks & Spencer has a big supermarket in its basement (daily, just south of St. John’s at 49 Church Street, +44 1253 623 831). A Co-op supermarket is at the corner of Birley and Abingdon streets (long hours daily).
TOPPING STREET AND NEARBY
This somewhat dingy street sits about halfway between the train station and the Promenade. But its lack of glitz helps keep some of the tourists away, making this a relatively local-feeling strip. Besides the listing below, your options here include a pair of Thai restaurants, two pubs with great old-fashioned ambience and passable food (The Washington and Churchills), and an Italian joint.
$ Yorkshire Fisheries is the locals’ choice for fish-and-chips (better quality than the greasy joints on the Promenade). Eat in on the restaurant side, or order for takeaway from the counter next door (daily, 16 Topping Street, +44 1253 627 739).
CLIFTON STREET
Stretching up from the Promenade and the TI, this street has a few international offerings, including Italian, Indian, and Chinese.
$$ Sapori offers good Italian food in a sophisticated atmosphere that makes you forget the tackiness nearby (open daily for dinner, 36 Clifton Street, +44 1253 627 440).
$$ Michael Wan’s Mandarin Restaurant is a local fixture that’s been providing Blackpool with authentic Chinese cuisine since 1961 (reservations smart; Tue-Sun dinner only, closed Mon, 27 Clifton Street, +44 1253 622 687, www.michaelwansmandarin.co.uk).
IN THE NORTH END
If you’re staying at the hotels at the north end of the Promenade and don’t want to venture into the rowdy downtown for dinner, locals recommend riding the tram north to Bispham. From here, Red Bank Road has several acceptable eateries, including Indian, Italian, fish-and-chips, and steakhouse choices. It’s not high cuisine, but it’s relatively convenient. The basic diner-style $ Bispham Kitchen has stick-to-your-ribs English comfort food, including good fish-and-chips (daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, at #14, +44 1253 359 150).
Blackpool Connections
BY TRAIN
If you’re heading to (or from) Blackpool by train, you’ll usually need to transfer at Preston (4/hour, 25 minutes). The following trains leave from Blackpool’s main (north) station.
From Blackpool to: Liverpool (4-5 direct, 1.5 hours, more with transfers), Keswick/Lake District (nearly hourly, allow 3 hours total for journey: 2-hour train to Penrith with transfer in Preston, then bus to Keswick; alternatively, you could take the train to Windermere—every 1-2 hours with a change in Preston and sometimes also Oxenholme, 2 hours—and ride the bus from there to Keswick), Conwy in North Wales (roughly hourly, 3 hours, 2-3 transfers), York (hourly direct, 2.5-3 hours, some with change in Manchester), London’s Euston Station (hourly, 3 hours, transfer in Preston), Telford near Ironbridge Gorge (hourly, 2.5 hours, 2 transfers). Train info: +44 3457 484 950, NationalRail.co.uk.
ROUTE TIPS FOR DRIVERS
Leaving Blackpool to go anywhere, follow signs to the M-55, which starts at Blackpool and zips you to the M-6 (for points north or south).