STRATFORD-UPON-AVON
To see or not to see? Stratford, Shakespeare’s hometown, is a must for every big-bus tour in England, and one of the most popular side trips from London. English majors and actors are in seventh heaven here. Sure, it’s touristy, and nonliterary types might find it’s much ado about nothing. But nobody back home would understand if you skipped Shakespeare’s house.
Shakespeare connection aside, the town’s riverside and half-timbered charm, coupled with its hardworking tourist industry, make Stratford a fun stop. But the play’s the thing to bring the Bard to life—and here you can see the Royal Shakespeare Company (the world’s best Shakespeare ensemble) performing in a state-of-the-art theater complex.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
If you’re just passing through Stratford, it’s worth a half-day—stroll the charming core, visit your choice of Shakespeare sights (Shakespeare’s Birthplace is best and easiest), and watch the swans along the river. But if you can squeeze it in, it’s worth it to stick around to see a play. To do so, you’ll need to spend the night here or drive in from the Cotswolds (just 30 minutes away; see previous chapter).
By Train or Bus: It’s easy to stop in Stratford for a wander or an overnight. Stratford is well connected by train to London and Oxford and linked by bus and train to nearby towns (Warwick and Coventry to the north, and Moreton in the Cotswolds to the south).
By Car: Stratford, conveniently located at the northern edge of the Cotswolds, is made to order for drivers connecting the Cotswolds with points north (such as Ironbridge Gorge or North Wales). If you’re driving north after you visit Stratford, you’re within easy reach of two more worthwhile stop-offs: the impressive Warwick Castle and the evocative ruined cathedral at Coventry (both covered in the next chapter). Speedy travelers squeeze in all three of these towns (Stratford, Warwick, and Coventry) on a one-day drive-through: Leave the Cotswolds early, spend the morning exploring Stratford, have lunch and tour the castle in Warwick, visit Coventry’s cathedral by midafternoon (closes Mon-Sat at 16:00, Sun at 15:30), and drive in the evening to your next stop (you’ll find driving tips at the end of this chapter). If you’re more relaxed, see a play and stay in Stratford, then stop at Warwick and/or Coventry the following morning en route to your next destination.
Orientation to Stratford
Stratford, with around 30,000 people, has a compact old town, with the TI and theater along the riverbank, and Shakespeare’s Birthplace a few blocks inland; you can easily walk to everything except Anne Hathaway’s Cottage. The core of the town is lined with half-timbered houses. The River Avon has an idyllic yet playful feel, with a park along both banks, rowboats, swans, and a fun old crank-powered ferry.
TOURIST INFORMATION
The TI is in a small brick building on Bridge Foot, where the main street hits the river (Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, closes daily for lunch 12:30-13:30, +44 1789 264 293, vic@stratford-dc.gov.uk). In addition to selling combo-tickets (see “Shakespearean Sights,” later), the TI also sells discount tickets for Warwick Castle (online prices may be cheaper—check before buying at TI).
ARRIVAL IN STRATFORD
By Train: Don’t get off at the Stratford Parkway train station—you want Stratford-upon-Avon. Once you arrive at the train station, exit straight ahead, bear right up the stairs, then turn left and follow the main drag straight to the river. (For the Grove Road B&Bs, turn right at the first big intersection.)
By Car: If you’re sleeping in Stratford, ask your B&B for arrival and parking details (many have a few free parking spaces, but it’s best to reserve one). If you’re just here for the day, you’ll find plenty of lots scattered around town. The Bridgeway garage is big, easy, reasonably priced, and central—coming from the south (i.e., the Cotswolds), cross the big bridge and veer right, following Through Traffic, P, and Wark (Warwick Road) signs. Go around the block—turning right and right and right—and enter the multistory garage. The City Sightseeing bus stop and the TI are a block away. Find inexpensive parking at the park-and-ride near the Stratford Parkway train station, just off the A-46—from here you can ride a shuttle bus into town (£2.20 round-trip, 4/hour until 18:45, drops off at Wood Street NatWest Bank and Windsor Street near Shakespeare’s Birthplace).
HELPFUL HINTS
Combo-Tickets: The TI and the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust sell a £25 “Shakespeare’s Story” combo-ticket that covers three Trust sights: Shakespeare’s Birthplace, Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, and Shakespeare’s New Place (see “Shakespearean Sights,” later, for details).
Combo-tickets may also be available for Shakespeare’s Birthplace and Shakespeare’s Schoolroom and Guildhall, and for the MAD Museum and Shakespeare’s Schoolroom and Guildhall (subject to change).
City Sightseeing offers a range of combo-tickets that will save a little money if you combine a hop-on, hop-off bus tour with a boat cruise or rental, Shakespeare houses, or the whole shebang.
Discounts: A ticket stub from a Stratford town walk (see “Tours in Stratford,” later) gets you a discount at many sights, shops, and restaurants. Also, ask your B&B host if they have discount vouchers.
Name That Stratford: If you’re coming by train or bus, be sure to request a ticket for “Stratford-upon-Avon,” not just “Stratford” (to avoid a mix-up with Stratford Langthorne, near London).
Market Days: A local crafts and food market runs at Waterside (near the theater complex) on Sundays from 10:00 to 17:00 (sometimes on Bridge Street in winter), and on Rother Street on Fridays and Saturdays from 9:00 to 16:00.
Festival: Every year, on the weekend nearest to Shakespeare’s birthday (traditionally considered to be April 23—also the day he died), Stratford celebrates. The town hosts free events, including activities for children.
Baggage Storage: The Tudor World museum (see listing under “Other Stratford Sights,” later) can store your luggage (£1/bag, free with museum visit, daily 10:30-17:30, 40 Sheep Street, +44 1789 298 070).
Laundry: Find Laundry Quarter on the road between the train station and the river (daily self-service 8:00-20:00, bring coins, soap available, drop-off only Mon and Thu 9:00-12:00 for pickup the same day, 34 Greenhill Street, +44 1789 417 766, www.laundryquarter.co.uk). The other option is Sparklean, a 10-minute walk from the city center or about five minutes from the Grove Road B&Bs (daily 8:00-21:00, full-service option sometimes available—call, 74 Bull Street, +44 1789 269 075).
Taxis: Try 007 Taxis (+44 1789 414 007) or the taxi stand on Woodbridge, near the intersection with High Street. To arrange for a private car and driver, contact Platinum Cars (£250/half-day tour, also does airport transfers from Heathrow and Birmingham, +44 1789 264 626, www.platinum-cars.co.uk).
Tours in Stratford
Stratford Town Walks
These entertaining, award-winning two-hour walks introduce you to the town and its famous playwright. Tours run daily year-round, rain or shine, and leave from the Swan fountain (on the waterfront, opposite Sheep Street) in front of the Royal Shakespeare Theatre (£10, reservations required; ticket stub offers discounts to some sights, shops, and restaurants; daily at 11:00, Sat also at 14:00; +44 7855 760 377, https://stratfordtownwalk.co.uk). They also run an evening ghost walk (£10, Sat at 19:30, 1.5 hours, must book in advance).
Tudor World
This museum offers 1.5-hour Shakespeare tours and one-hour ghost tours; see the listing under “Other Stratford Sights.”
City Sightseeing Bus Tours
Open-top buses let you hop on and hop off at stops within the compact town, and head out to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage. The full circuit takes about an hour and comes with entertaining and informative commentary (£15, ticket valid 24 hours, buy tickets on bus, online, or at the TI; buses leave from the TI every 20 minutes, 9:30-17:00, no buses Nov-March, some weekend buses have live guides; www.citysightseeing-stratford.com).
Shakespearean Sights
Stratford’s biggest Shakespeare sights are run by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust (www.shakespeare.org.uk). While these sights are promoted like tacky tourist attractions—and designed to be crowd-pleasers rather than to tickle academics—they’re well run and genuinely interesting. Shakespeare’s Birthplace and Shakespeare’s New Place are in town; Anne Hathaway’s Cottage is just outside Stratford. Each has a tranquil garden and helpful, eager docents who love to tell a story; and yet, each is quite different, so visiting all three gives you a well-rounded look at the Bard and his influences. (Two other Trust-run sights formerly open to the public, Hall’s Croft and Mary Arden’s Farm, are now primarily used by school groups—check locally for the latest visiting details. Another sight, Shakespeare’s Schoolroom and Guildhall, is run by a separate organization, with a separate ticket.)
If you’re here for Shakespeare sightseeing—and have time to venture just outside town for Anne Hathaway’s Cottage—you might as well buy a combo-ticket and drop in to all three Shakespeare Birthplace Trust sights (described next). If your time is limited, visit only Shakespeare’s Birthplace, which is the most convenient to reach (right in the town center) and offers the best historical introduction to the playwright. Shakespeare’s New Place and Anne Hathaway’s Cottage are closed in winter.
Combo-Tickets: The £25 Shakespeare’s Story combo-ticket covers Shakespeare’s Birthplace, Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, and Shakespeare’s New Place (buy online or at the TI; you’ll need to select a time slot for Shakespeare’s Birthplace). Another combo-ticket covers Shakespeare’s Birthplace and Shakespeare’s Schoolroom (£25, available online at https://tickets.shakespeare.org.uk or www.shakespearesschoolroom.org).
▲▲Shakespeare’s Birthplace
While the birthplace itself is a bit underwhelming, it’s rewarding to stand in the bedroom where Shakespeare was born, and helpful docents make this a good introduction to the Bard. A modern exhibit and live mini performances emphasize how his work continues to inspire.
Cost and Hours: £18, timed-entry ticket required, buy online to avoid lines, covered by Shakespeare’s Story and Birthplace-Schoolroom combo-tickets; open daily 10:00-17:00, Nov-March until 16:00; in town center on Henley Street, +44 1789 204 016, www.shakespeare.org.uk.
Visiting Shakespeare’s Birthplace: An introductory exhibit shows Shakespeare’s enduring influence, with a video mash-up ranging from The Simpsons to the Hip-Hop Shakespeare Company. Check out the timeline of Shakespeare’s plays, and peruse information about his upbringing, family life, and career in London. A few historical artifacts, including an original 1623 First Folio of Shakespeare’s work, are also on display.
I find the half-timbered Elizabethan building, where young William grew up, a bit disappointing, as if millions of visitors have rubbed it clean of anything authentic. It was restored in the 1800s, and the furnishings are true to 1575, when William was 11. To enliven the otherwise dead-feeling house, chat up the well-versed, often costumed attendants posted in many of the rooms, eager to engage with travelers and answer questions.
Shakespeare’s father, John—who came from humble beginnings but bettered himself by pursuing a career in glove-making (you’ll see the window where he sold them to customers on the street)—provided his family with a comfortable upper-middle-class existence. The guest bed in the parlor was a major status symbol: They must have been rich to afford such a nice bed that wasn’t used every day. This is also the house where Shakespeare and his bride, Anne Hathaway, began their married life together. Upstairs are the rooms where young Will, his siblings, and his parents slept (along with their servants). Look for the window etched with the names of important visitors, from Sir Walter Scott to actor Henry Irving. After Shakespeare’s father died and William inherited the building, the thrifty playwright converted it into a pub to make a little money.
Exit into the fine garden where Shakespearean actors often perform brief scenes (they may even take requests). Pull up a bench and listen, imagining the playwright as a young boy stretching his imagination in this very place.
Shakespeare’s New Place
While nothing remains of the house the Bard inhabited when he made it big (it was demolished in the 18th century), its manicured grounds are a tranquil spot to soak up some history. Today, modern sculptures and traditional gardens adorn the grounds of the mansion Shakespeare called home for nearly 20 years. It’s hard to imagine a house on this site, but vivid docent descriptions and visual aids bring the history to life. The expansive lawn is a pleasant respite from the hubbub of town, and the perfect place to sip a coffee or compose sonnets. Next door, Nash’s House (which belonged to Shakespeare’s granddaughter and her husband) hosts a model of Shakespeare’s house, domestic artifacts, period clothing, and a balcony view of the knot garden.
To many, William Shakespeare is the greatest author, in any language, period. In one fell swoop, he expanded and helped define modern English—the unrefined tongue of everyday people—and granted it a beauty and legitimacy that put it on par with Latin. In the process, he gave us phrases like “one fell swoop,” which we quote without knowing that no one ever said it before Shakespeare wrote it.
Shakespeare was born in Stratford-upon-Avon in 1564 to John Shakespeare and Mary Arden. Though his parents were probably illiterate, Shakespeare is thought to have attended Stratford’s grammar school, finishing his education at age 14. When he was 18, he married 26-year-old Anne Hathaway (she was three months pregnant with their daughter Susanna).
The very beginnings of Shakespeare’s writing career are shrouded in mystery: Historians have been unable to unearth any record of what he was up to in his early 20s. We only know that seven years after his marriage, Shakespeare was living in London as a budding poet, playwright, and actor. He soon hit the big time, writing and performing for royalty, founding (along with his troupe) the Globe Theatre (a functioning replica of which now stands along the Thames’ South Bank—see here), and raking in enough dough to buy New Place, a swanky mansion back in his hometown. Around 1611, the rich-and-famous playwright retired from the theater and moved back to Stratford, where he died at the age of 52.
With plots that entertained both the highest and the lowest minds, Shakespeare taught the play-going public about human nature. His tool was an unrivaled linguistic mastery of English. Using borrowed plots, outrageous puns, and poetic language, Shakespeare wrote comedies (c. 1590—Taming of the Shrew, As You Like It), tragedies (c. 1600—Hamlet, Othello, Macbeth, King Lear), and fanciful combinations (c. 1610—The Tempest), exploring the full range of human emotions and reinventing the English language.
Perhaps as important was his insight into humanity. His father was a glove-maker and wool merchant, and his mother was the daughter of a landowner from a Catholic family. Some scholars speculate that Shakespeare’s parents were closet Catholics, practicing their faith during the rise of Protestantism. It was this tug-of-war between two worlds, some think, that gave rise to Shakespeare’s humanism. Think of his stock of great characters and great lines: Hamlet (“To be or not to be, that is the question”), Othello and his jealousy (“It is the green-eyed monster”), ambitious Mark Antony (“Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ears”), rowdy Falstaff (“The better part of valor is discretion”), and the star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet (“But soft, what light through yonder window breaks”). Shakespeare probed the psychology of human beings 300 years before Freud. Even today, his characters strike a familiar chord.
The scope of his brilliant work, his humble beginnings, and the fact that no original Shakespeare manuscripts survive raise a few scholarly eyebrows. Some have wondered if Shakespeare had help on several of his plays. After all, they reasoned, how could a journeyman actor with little education have written so many masterpieces? And he was surrounded by other great writers, such as his friend and fellow poet, Ben Jonson. Most modern scholars, though, agree that Shakespeare did indeed write the plays and sonnets attributed to him.
His contemporaries had no doubts about Shakespeare—or his legacy. As Jonson wrote in the preface to the First Folio, “He was not of an age, but for all time!”
Cost and Hours: £13, covered by Shakespeare’s Story combo-ticket; daily 10:00-17:00; closed Nov-March; 22 Chapel Street, +44 1789 338 536, www.shakespeare.org.uk.
Shakespeare’s Grave (Holy Trinity Church)
Shakespeare was a rector for Holy Trinity Church when he died. While the church is surrounded by an evocative graveyard, the Bard is entombed in a place of honor, right in front of the altar inside. The church marks the ninth-century birthplace of the town, which was once a religious settlement.
Cost and Hours: £4 donation requested; generally Mon 10:00-16:00, Tue-Sat until 17:00, Sun 13:00-15:30—check website for updates; 10-minute walk past the theater—see its graceful spire as you gaze down the river, +44 1789 266 316, www.stratford-upon-avon.org.
Shakespeare’s Schoolroom and Guildhall
The guildhall and the guild’s schoolhouse help visitors imagine Shakespeare’s childhood years. Built between 1418 and 1420, the guildhall was the headquarters for the Guild of the Holy Cross, where everyone from Stratford and nearby towns—from tradesmen to craftsmen to clergy and nobility—networked and struck deals. Anyone could join for a small fee; in return, the guild supported members’ families, even employing priests to pray for their souls. It also provided social services, such as town infrastructure—and established Stratford’s first school.
Cost and Hours: £12.50, £25 combo-ticket with Shakespeare’s Birthplace, ask at entry about combo-ticket with the MAD Museum (see “Other Stratford Sights,” later), daily 11:00-17:00, Church Street, +44 1789 868 262, www.shakespearesschoolroom.org.
Visiting the Guildhall and Schoolroom: The guildhall’s priest’s chapel and the Guild Chapel next door both contain fragments of medieval wall paintings that were probably whitewashed during Reformation efforts—during William’s father’s tenure as chamberlain here. (The paintings were uncovered when the chapel was restored in 1804 and are barely visible.)
In the very room where Shakespeare attended school for seven years, six days a week, you’ll see a wood table with centuries-old student-carved graffiti, and you can try out a quill pen as you conjugate Latin. A costumed docent describes student life. Wood benches face each other so that kids could easily help each other learn. Since paper was so expensive, students were taught verbally, likely boosting young Will’s flair for storytelling. Groups of traveling actors performed at the guildhall several times while Will attended school here. In the days before TV, movies, or social media, these productions were the pinnacle of entertainment, and likely inspired him.
▲Anne Hathaway’s Cottage
Located 1.5 miles out of Stratford (in Shottery), this home is a 12-room farmhouse where the Bard’s wife grew up. William courted Anne here—she was 26, he was only 18—and his tactics proved successful. (Maybe a little too much, as she was several months pregnant at their wedding.) Their 34-year marriage produced two more children and lasted until his death in 1616 at age 52. The Hathaway family lived here from the 1500s until 1911, and much of the family’s 92-acre farm remains part of the sight.
Cost and Hours: £13, covered by Shakespeare’s Story combo-ticket; daily 10:00-17:00, closed Nov-March; +44 1789 338 532, www.shakespeare.org.uk.
Getting There: It’s a 30-minute walk from central Stratford (20 minutes from the Grove Road B&Bs), a stop on the hop-on, hop-off tour bus, or a quick taxi ride from downtown Stratford (around £7). Drivers will find it well signposted entering Stratford from any direction, with easy cheap parking.
Visiting Anne Hathaway’s Cottage: The thatched-roof cottage looks cute enough to eat, and it’s fun to imagine the writer of some of the world’s greatest romances wooing his favorite girl right here during his formative years. (If the place shakes, a tourist has thunked his or her head on the low beams.) The docent talks provide an intimate peek at life in Shakespeare’s day.
Maybe even more interesting than the cottage are the gardens, which have several parts (including a prizewinning “traditional cottage garden”). Follow the signs to the “Woodland Walk” (look for the music-note willow sculpture on your way), along with a fun sculpture garden littered with modern interpretations of Shakespearean characters (such as Falstaff’s mead gut, and a great photo-op statue of the British Isles sliced out of steel). From April through June, the gardens are at their best, with birds chirping, bulbs in bloom, and a large sweet-pea display. You’ll also find a music trail, a butterfly trail, and various exhibits, like a teepee built of sticks that is rigged up to play a selection of Shakespeare’s love sonnets when you press a button.
THE ROYAL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY
The Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC), undoubtedly the best Shakespeare company on earth, performs year-round in Stratford and in London. Seeing a play here in the Bard’s birthplace is a must for Shakespeare fans and a memorable experience for anybody. Between its excellent acting and remarkable staging, the RSC makes Shakespeare as accessible and enjoyable as it gets.
It’s easy to take in a play, thanks to the RSC’s very user-friendly website, painless ticket-booking system, and chock-a-block schedule that fills the summer with mostly big-name Shakespeare plays (plus a few more obscure titles to please the die-hard aficionados).
The RSC has enjoyed renewed popularity since the 2011 update of its Royal Shakespeare Theatre. Even if you’re not seeing a play, exploring this cleverly designed theater building is well worth your time. The smaller attached Swan Theatre—refurbished during its pandemic closure—hosts plays on a more intimate scale, with only 469 seats.
▲▲▲Seeing a Play
Performances take place most days (Mon-Sat generally at 19:15 at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre or 19:30 at the Swan, matinees around 13:15 at the RST or 13:30 at the Swan, sporadic Sun shows). Shows generally last three hours or more, with one intermission; for an evening show, don’t count on getting back to your B&B much before 23:00. There’s no strict dress code—nice jeans and short-sleeve shirts are fine—but shorts are discouraged. If you’re feeling bold, buy a £10 standing ticket and slip into an open seat as the lights dim—if nothing is available during the play’s first half, something could open up after intermission.
Getting Tickets: Tickets range from £16 to £80, with most around £60 (see website for discount details, including “rush” tickets available online at 12:00 each Friday for the following week’s shows, and First-Time Fridays, when visitors new to the theater can score a seat for just £10). Saturday-evening shows—the most popular—are the most expensive. You can book tickets as you like it: online (www.rsc.org.uk), by phone (+44 1789 331 111, Mon-Fri noon-18:00), or in person at the box office during normal building hours (see “Visiting the Theaters,” next). Print tickets in advance, pick them up at the theater 30 minutes before “curtain up,” or just show them on your phone. Because it’s so easy to get tickets online or by phone, it makes no sense to pay extra to book tickets through any other source.
Tickets go on sale well in advance, depending on the show and season. Saturdays and very famous plays (such as Romeo and Juliet or Hamlet)—or any play with a well-known actor—sell out the fastest. Before your trip, check the website, and consider buying tickets if something strikes your fancy. But demand is difficult to predict, and some tickets do go unsold. On a past visit, on a sunny Friday in June, the riverbank was crawling with tourists. I stepped into the RSC on a lark to see if they had any tickets. An hour later, I was watching King Lear lose his marbles.
Even if there aren’t any seats available, you may be able to buy a returned ticket on the same day of an otherwise sold-out show. Also, the few standing-room tickets in the main theater are sold only on the day of the show. While you can check at the box office anytime during the day, it’s best to go either when it opens at 10:00 (daily) or between 17:30 and 18:00 (Mon-Sat). Be prepared to wait.
Visiting the Theaters
▲▲The Royal Shakespeare Theatre
The RSC’s flagship theater is one of Stratford’s most fascinating sights. If you’re seeing a play here, come early to poke around the building and check out interesting tidbits of theater history. You need to take a guided tour (explained below) to see the backstage areas, but you’re welcome to wander the theater’s public areas anytime the building is open.
Cost and Hours: Free entry; daily 10:00-17:00 or until the end of evening intermission on performance days.
Information: +44 1789 331 111, www.rsc.org.uk.
Guided Tours: Well-informed RSC volunteers lead entertaining, one-hour tours that include parts of the theater not otherwise open to the public (£13.50; generally four tours daily at 10:15, 11:45, 14:00, and 15:30; fewer tours Mon and Sat; confirm schedule at box office or online; best to book ahead by phone or on website).
Background: The original Victorian-style theater was built in 1879 to honor the Bard, but it burned down in 1926. The big Art Deco-style building you see today was erected in 1932 and outfitted with a stodgy Edwardian “picture frame”-style stage, even though a more dynamic “thrust”-style stage—better for engaging the audience—was the actors’ choice. (It would also have been closer in design to Shakespeare’s original Globe stage, which jutted into the crowd.)
The 2011 renovation addressed this ill-conceived design, adding an updated thrust-style stage. They’ve left the shell of the 1930s theater but given it an unconventional deconstructed-industrial style, with the seats stacked at an extreme vertical pitch. Though smaller, the redesigned theater can seat about the same size audience as before (1,048 seats), and now there’s not a bad seat in the house—no matter what, you’re no more than 50 feet from the stage (the cheapest “gallery” seats look down right onto Othello’s bald spot). Productions are staged to play to all the seats throughout the show. Those sitting up high appreciate different details from those at stage level, and vice versa.
Visiting the Theater: From the main lobby and box office/gift shop area, there’s plenty to see. First head left. In the circular atrium between the brick wall of the modern theater and fragments of the previous theater, notice the ratty old floorboards—pried up from the 1932 stage and laid down here. As you wait for your play, you’re treading on theater history. Upstairs on level 2, find the Paccar Room, with generally excellent temporary exhibits assembled from the RSC’s substantial collection of historic costumes, props, manuscripts, and other theater memorabilia. Continue upstairs to level 3 to the Rooftop Restaurant (described later). High on the partition that runs through the restaurant, facing the brick theater wall, notice the four chairs affixed to the wall. These are original seats from the earlier theater, situated where the back row used to be (90 feet from the stage)—illustrating how much more audience-friendly the new design is.
Back downstairs, pass through the box office/gift shop area to find the Swan Wing—an old, Gothic-style Victorian space that survives from the original 1879 Memorial Theatre and hosts The Play’s the Thing, an immersive exhibit that lets you digitally try on costumes, design sets, and grace a Shakespearean stage.
Back outside, across the street from the theater, notice the building with the steep gable and huge door (marked CFE 1887). This was built as a workshop for building sets, which could be moved in large pieces to the main theater. To this day, all the sets, costumes, and props are made here in Stratford. The row of cottages to the right is housing for actors. The RSC’s reputation exerts enough pull to attract serious actors from all over the UK and beyond, who live here for the entire season. The RSC uses a repertory company approach, where the same actors appear in multiple shows concurrently. Today’s Lady Macbeth may be tomorrow’s Rosalind.
Tower View: For a God’s-eye view of all of Shakespeare’s houses, ride the elevator to the top of the RSC’s tower (free, donation appreciated; tower open daily 12:00-16:00; closed on matinee performance days and in bad weather). Aside from a few sparse exhibits, the main attraction here is the 360-degree view over the theater building, the River Avon, and the lanes of Stratford.
The Food’s the Thing: The main theater has a casual $ café with a terrace overlooking the river (sandwiches, daily from 12:00, earlier on matinee days), as well as the fancier $$ Rooftop Restaurant—though I’d dine elsewhere (Mon-Sat 12:00 until late, Sun until 15:30, dinner reservations smart, +44 1789 403 449, www.rsc.org.uk/rooftop).
The Swan Theatre
Adjacent to the Royal Shakespeare Theatre is the smaller, Elizabethan-style Swan Theatre, named not for the birds that fill the park out front but for the Bard’s nickname—the “sweet swan of Avon.” It has a vertical layout and a thrust stage similar to the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, but its wood trim and railings give it a cozier, more traditional feel. The Swan is used for lesser-known Shakespeare plays and alternative works. Occasionally, the lowest level of seats is removed to accommodate “groundling” (standing-only) tickets, much like at the Globe Theatre in London.
The Other Place (Former Courtyard Theatre)
A two-minute walk down Southern Lane from the original Royal Shakespeare Theatre, the Courtyard Theatre (affectionately called the “rusty shed” by locals) was built as a replacement venue while the RSC was being renovated. Now called The Other Place, it serves as a space for rehearsal, research, and development. The venue also hosts occasional productions and special events, plus a bar/café.
The Dell
Summer open-air Shakespeare performances at Avonbank Gardens near Holy Trinity Church are easy, free, and fun: Just bring something to sit on and a picnic. These are not RSC productions; the company invites university and amateur groups to perform (July-Aug weekends, schedule posted on garden gates, www.rsc.org.uk/thedell).
Other Stratford Sights
Avon Riverfront
The River Avon is a playground of swans and canal boats. The swans have been the mascots of Stratford since 1623, when, seven years after the Bard’s death, Ben Jonson’s poem in the First Folio dubbed him “the sweet swan of Avon.”
For a nice riverfront walk, consider crossing over the Tramway Footbridge and following the trail to the right (west) along the south bank of the Avon. To your left is the Stratford Big Wheel, not as big as the London Eye, but much cheaper (£8). From here, you’ll get a great view of the Royal Shakespeare Theatre across the river. Continuing down the path, you’ll pass the local lawn bowling club (guest players welcome, £5, Tue and Thu 13:30-15:30) and Lucy’s Mill Weir, an area popular with fishers and kayakers, where you can turn around. On the way back, cross the river by the chain ferry (described later) and return to the town center via the north bank for a full loop.
In the water you’ll see colorful canal boats. These boats saw their workhorse days during the short window of time between the start of the Industrial Revolution and the establishment of the railways. Today they’re mostly pleasure boats. The boats are long and narrow, so two can pass in the slim canals. There are 2,000 miles of canals in England’s Midlands, built to connect centers of industry with seaports and provide vital transportation during the early days of the Industrial Revolution. Stratford was as far inland as you could sail on natural rivers from Bristol; it was the terminus of the man-made Birmingham Canal, built in 1816. Even today you can motor your canal boat all the way to London from here. Along the embankment, look for the signs indicating how many hours it’ll take—and how many locks you’ll traverse—to go by boat to various English cities.
For a little bit of mellow river action, rent a rowboat (£9/hour per person) or, for more of a challenge, pole yourself around on a Cambridge-style punt (the canal is only 4-5 feet deep; same price as the rowboat and more memorable/embarrassing if you do the punting). You can rent boats from Avon Boating at the Swan’s Nest Boathouse across the Tramway Footbridge.
Avon Boating also offers a sleepy 30-minute river cruise (£9, includes commentary, daily 10:00-16:00, board boat in Bancroft Gardens near the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, +44 1789 267 073, www.avon-boating.co.uk), or jump on the oldest surviving chain ferry in Britain (c. 1937, £1), which shuttles people across the river just beyond the theater.
The old Cox’s Yard, a riverside timber yard until the 1990s, is a rare physical remnant of the days when Stratford was an industrial port. Today, Cox’s has been taken over by a restaurant complex, with a café, lots of outdoor seating, and occasional live music. Upstairs is the Attic Theatre, which puts on fringe theater acts as well as mainstream productions—including works by Shakespeare (www.theattictheatre.co.uk).
In the riverfront park, roughly between Cox’s Yard and the TI, the Gower Memorial honors the Bard and his creations. Named for Lord Ronald Gower, the man who paid for and sculpted the memorial, this 1888 work shows Shakespeare up top ringed by four of his most indelible creations, each representing a human pursuit: Hamlet (philosophy), Lady Macbeth (tragedy), Falstaff (comedy), and Prince Hal (history). Originally located next to the theater, it was moved here following the theater’s destruction by fire in 1926.
▲MAD Museum
A refreshing change of pace in Bard-bonkers Stratford, the Mechanical Art and Design (MAD) Museum celebrates machines as art, showcasing a changing collection of skillfully constructed robots, gizmos, and Rube-Goldberg machines that spring to entertaining life with the push of a button. Engaging for anyone, riveting for engineers, it’s pricey but conveniently located near Shakespeare’s Birthplace.
Cost and Hours: £8.80, ask about combo-ticket with Shakespeare’s Schoolroom and Guildhall, Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat-Sun until 17:30, last entry 45 minutes before closing, 4 Henley Street, +44 1789 269 356, https://themadmuseum.co.uk.
Tudor World at the Falstaff Experience
This attraction is tacky, gimmicky, and more about entertainment than education. (And, while it’s named for a Shakespeare character, the exhibit isn’t about the Bard.) Filling Shrieve’s House Barn with mostly kid-oriented exhibits (mannequins and descriptions, but few real artifacts), it sweeps through Tudor history from the plague to Henry VIII’s privy chamber to a replica 16th-century tavern. If you’re into ghost-spotting, their nightly ghost tours may be your best shot.
Cost and Hours: Museum—£7, daily 10:30-17:30; Shakespeare tour—£7, Sat at 14:00; ghost tours—£8.50, daily at 18:00, Sat also 19:00, 20:00, and 21:00; book online, additional tours possible Fri-Sat; 40 Sheep Street, +44 1789 298 070, www.tudorworld.com.
Sleeping in Stratford
Ye olde timbered hotels are scattered through the city center. Most B&Bs are a short walk away on the fringes of town, right on the busy ring roads that route traffic away from the center. (The recommended places below generally have double-paned windows for rooms in the front, but still get some traffic noise.)
In general, the weekend on or near Shakespeare’s birthday (April 23) is particularly tight, but Fridays and Saturdays are always busy. This town is so reliant on the theater for its business that some B&Bs have insurance covering their loss if the Royal Shakespeare Company ever stops performing in Stratford.
ON GROVE ROAD
These places are at the edge of town on busy Grove Road, across from a grassy square, and (except the first listing) come with free parking when booked in advance. From here, it’s about a 10-minute walk either to the town center or to the train station (opposite directions).
$$ Emerald Stays at The Adelphi is a bright, modern guesthouse offering seven studio rooms with kitchenettes, as well as a private apartment with patio and greenhouse dining area (RS%, no parking, no breakfast, 39 Grove Road, +44 7919 841 448, www.adelphi-guesthouse.com, info@adelphi-guesthouse.com).
$$ Twelfth Night Guest House has been fine-tuned to perfection since 2006 by energetic owner Annie and her husband James. The eight rooms are delightfully decorated and well equipped. Breakfast is made of locally sourced ingredients and served on fine china (ground-floor room with small terrace, 13 Evesham Place, +44 1789 414 595, www.twelfthnight.co.uk, twelfthnight31@gmail.com).
$ Salamander Guest House, run by hospitable Alexandra, rents eight simple rooms in a variety of configurations (family rooms, no breakfast, 40 Grove Road, +44 1789 205 728, www.salamanderguesthouse.co.uk, info@salamanderguesthouse.co.uk).
$ Ashgrove House lacks some of the charm found at the neighboring guesthouses but has six clean and comfortable rooms. Ask for one of the large doubles (minifridges, 37 Grove Road, +44 1789 297 278, www.ashgrovehousestratford.co.uk, info@ashgrovehousestratford.co.uk, Iain and Diane).
ELSEWHERE IN STRATFORD
$$$ The White Swan has been a hotel since the 1500s and has 41 unique and refurbished rooms, some with a lot of character. It also has a traditional pub and restaurant that serves your breakfast in the morning and classic British dishes later in the day (air-con, Rother Street, +44 1789 297 022, www.white-swan-stratford.co.uk, whiteswanhotel@fullers.co.uk).
$$ Avonlea is a welcoming B&B renting six rooms across the river. Beds are comfortable and the rooms have a homey feel. Owners Clare and Rob cook up a hearty breakfast (free parking, 47 Shipston Road, +44 1789 205 940, www.avonlea-stratford.co.uk, enquiries@avonlea-stratford.co.uk).
$$ The Townhouse rents 12 spacious and tastefully decorated rooms opposite Shakespeare’s Schoolroom and Guildhall. On the ground floor is a small, cozy pub with a friendly staff (includes breakfast when you book direct, 16 Church Street, +44 1789 262 222, www.stratfordtownhouse.co.uk, hello@stratfordtownhouse.co.uk).
$$ Mercure Shakespeare Hotel, centrally located in a black-and-white building just up the street from Shakespeare’s New Place, has 78 business-class rooms, each one named for a Shakespearean play or character. Some of the rooms are old-style Elizabethan higgledy-piggledy (with modern finishes), while others are contemporary style—note your preference when you reserve (breakfast extra, pay parking, Chapel Street, +44 1789 294 997, www.mercure.com, h6630@accor.com).
¢ Hostel: Family-friendly Hemmingford House has 32 rooms in a Georgian mansion, half of them en suite. It’s a 10-minute bus ride from town (private rooms, family rooms, camping pods and tents, breakfast extra, take bus #15 two miles to Alveston, hostel is on Wellesbourne Road, +44 3453 719 661, www.yha.org.uk/hostel/stratford-upon-avon, stratford@yha.org.uk).
Eating in Stratford
RESTAURANTS
Stratford’s numerous restaurants vie for your pretheater business, with special hours and meal deals. (Most offer light two- and three-course menus before 19:00.) You’ll find many hardworking places on Sheep Street and Waterside. Unfortunately, posttheater dinners are more challenging, as most places close early.
$$$ Bistrot Pierre, across the river near the boating station, is a French eatery that’s been impressing Stratford residents and tourists alike. They have indoor and outdoor seating and French (read: slow) service (long hours daily, Swan’s Nest Hotel, Bridge Foot, +44 1789 264 804, www.bistrotpierre.co.uk). The pub next door, Bear Free House, is owned by the same people and shares the kitchen but offers a different menu.
$$$ The Boathouse Riverside Dining & Bar, across the street from Bistrot Pierre, has a remarkable location by the river. This might be your best bet in town for a tasty seafood meal. Ask about the daily specials, and reserve early to get a front-row table overlooking the river. For a sunny lunch sit out in their garden (daily, Swans Nest Lane, +44 1789 414 960, www.thestratfordboathouse.co.uk).
$$$ Edward Moon is an upscale English brasserie serving signature dishes like duck leg and slow-cooked lamb shank in a setting reminiscent of Casablanca. They also have a decent selection of vegan and vegetarian dishes (closed Sun-Mon, 9 Chapel Street, +44 1789 267 069, www.edwardmoon.com).
$$$ Sheep Street Eateries: The next three places, part of the same chain, line up along Sheep Street, offering trendy ambience and modern English cuisine at relatively high prices (all three have good-value pretheater menus). Lambs is intimate and serves meat, fish, and veggie dishes with panache. Sit in the dressy upstairs, under low half-timbered beams, or outside in their heated courtyard (daily, Mon dinner only, 12 Sheep Street, +44 1789 292 554). The Opposition, next door, has a less formal bistro ambience (closed Sun, Mon dinner only, +44 1789 269 980, www.theoppo.co.uk; book in advance for post-theater dinner here Fri-Sat). The Vintner, just up the street, is known for their burgers and sandwiches (daily breakfast, then à la carte lunch and dinner, closes at 16:00 on Sun, 4 Sheep Street, +44 1789 297 259).
Indian: For dinner, $$ Avon Spice has a good reputation and good prices for takeout or dine-in meals (daily from 17:30, 7 Greenhill Street, +44 1789 267 067).
PUBS
$$ The Old Thatch Tavern is, according to locals, the best place in town for beer, serving up London-based Fuller’s brews. The atmosphere is cozy, and the food is a cut above what you’ll get in other pubs; enjoy it either in the bar, in the tight, candlelit restaurant, or out on the quiet patio (daily, closes at 18:00 on Sun, on Greenhill Street overlooking the market square, +44 1789 612 319).
$$ Dirty Duck is tucked away on a quiet street next to the river, a block down from the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. It’s a popular place with a riverside terrace and a beer garden. The food is a step up from the usual pub grub, and locals tend to order their signature pies (daily, reservations smart on weekends, Waterside, +44 1789 297 312, www.greeneking-pubs.co.uk/pubs/warwickshire/dirty-duck).
$$ The Windmill Inn serves decent, modestly priced fare in a 17th-century inn. It combines old and new styles, and—since it’s a few steps beyond the heart of the tourist zone—actually attracts some locals as well. Order drinks and food at the bar, then either settle into a comfy chair or head out to the half-timbered courtyard to wait for your meal (daily, Church Street, +44 1789 297 687).
$$ The Garrick Inn bills itself as the oldest pub in town and comes with a cozy, dimly lit restaurant vibe. Choose between the pub and the table-service section; either way, you’ll dine on bland, pricey pub grub (daily, 25 High Street, +44 1789 292 186).
PICNICS
With its sprawling and inviting riverfront park, Stratford is a particularly pleasant place to picnic. Choose a bench and enjoy views of the river and vacation houseboats while munching your meal. It’s a fine way to spend a midsummer night’s eve. For groceries or prepared foods, find Marks & Spencer on Bridge Street (daily, shorter hours on Sun, small coffee-and-sandwiches café upstairs). Across the street, Sainsbury’s Local stays open later than other supermarkets (daily 7:00-22:00).
For fish-and-chips, you have a couple of options: $ Barnaby’s is a greasy fast-food joint near the waterfront—convenient if you want takeout for the riverside park just across the street (daily, at Sheep Street and Waterside). For better food (but a less convenient location—closer to my recommended B&Bs), queue up with the locals at $ Kingfisher, then ask for the freshly battered haddock (closed Sun-Mon, a long block up at 13 Ely Street, +44 1789 292 513).
TEAROOMS
$$ The FourTeas 1940s Tea Room transports diners to another era, with period details ranging from the servers’ housedresses to the ration-card menu to the Glenn Miller-era soundtrack. There’s even an air-raid shelter beyond the terrace garden. Don’t be fooled by the theme: This place eludes kitsch with high-quality pastry, classic sandwiches, breakfast until noon, and local ingredients (Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, 24 Sheep Street, +44 1789 293 908).
$$ Bensons Restaurant and Tea Rooms, across the street from Shakespeare’s Birthplace, has outdoor tables right on the main pedestrian mall and friendly service with teas available all day (daily 9:00-17:30, 40 Henley Street, +44 1789 415 572).
Stratford Connections
Remember: When buying tickets or checking schedules, ask for “Stratford-upon-Avon,” not just “Stratford.” Notice that a single train (running about every 2 hours) connects most of these destinations: Warwick, Leamington Spa (change for Coventry or Oxford), then London.
From Stratford-upon-Avon by Train to: London (hourly, one transfer, 2-2.5 hours, to Marylebone Station), Warwick (every 2 hours, 30 minutes, more with transfer), Coventry (every 2 hours, 1 hour, change in Leamington Spa), Oxford (every 2 hours, 1.5 hours, change in Leamington Spa or Banbury), Moreton-in-Marsh (almost hourly, 3 hours, change in Worcester, better by bus). Train info: +44 345 748 4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk.
By Bus to: Cotswolds towns (bus #1 or #2, Mon-Sat 5/day, none on Sun, 50 minutes to Chipping Campden, 1.5 hours to Moreton-in-Marsh, some also stop at Broadway and/or Blockley, www.stagecoachbus.com; bus #51 also goes to Moreton-in-Marsh, Tue-Sat 5/day, www.pulhamscoaches.com), Warwick (#X18, 2/hour, 30 minutes, www.stagecoachbus.com), Coventry (2/hour, 1.25 hours, same bus as Warwick). There are no direct buses to Oxford; the train is better. Most intercity buses stop on Stratford’s Bridge Street (a block up from the TI). Consider downloading the Diamond Buses app for a real-time bus tracker and journey planner (www.diamondbuses.com). Traveline also provides information for all the region’s bus companies (+44 8712 002 233, www.traveline.info).
By Car: Driving is easy and distances are short: Chipping Campden (12 miles), Stow-on-the-Wold (22 miles), Warwick (8 miles), Coventry (19 miles).
ROUTE TIPS FOR DRIVERS
These tips assume you’re heading north from Stratford and considering visits to Warwick and/or Coventry (both described in the next chapter).
Stratford to Points North via Warwick and Coventry: Leaving the Bridgeway garage in downtown Stratford, circle to the right around the same block, but stay on “the Wark” (Warwick Road, A-439). Warwick is eight miles away. The castle is just south of town on the right. (For parking advice, see “Arrival in Stratford,” earlier.) When you’re trying to decide whether to stop in Coventry, factor in Birmingham’s rush hour—try to avoid driving through that city between 14:00 and 20:00 (worst Fri-Sun; Mon-Thu it generally gets better earlier, around 18:30).
Including Coventry: After touring Warwick Castle, carry on through the center of Warwick town and follow signs to Coventry (still the A-439, then the A-46). If you’re stopping in Coventry, follow signs painted on the road to the City Centre, and then to Cathedral Parking. Grab a place in the high-rise parking lot. Leaving Coventry, follow signs to Nuneaton and M6 North through lots of sprawl, and you’re on your way.
Skirting Coventry: Take the M-69 (direction: Leicester) and follow the M-6 as it threads through giant Birmingham.
Once You’re on the M-6: The highway divides into the free M-6 and an “M-6 Toll” road (designed to help drivers cut through the Birmingham traffic chaos). Take the toll road—£9 or so is a small price to pay to avoid all the nasty traffic (www.m6toll.co.uk).
When battling through sprawling Birmingham, keep your sights on the M-6. If you’re heading for any points north—Ironbridge Gorge (Telford), North Wales, Liverpool, Blackpool, or the Lakes (Kendal for the South Lake District, Keswick for the North Lake District)—just stay relentlessly on the M-6 (direction: North West). Each destination is clearly signed directly from the M-6. For specifics on getting to Ironbridge Gorge, see here.