GLASTONBURY & WELLS
Sleeping and Eating in and near Wells
The countryside surrounding Bath holds two particularly fine cathedral towns. Glastonbury (perhaps a.k.a. Avalon) is the ancient resting place of King Arthur and home (maybe) to the Holy Grail. It can be covered well in two to three hours: See the abbey, climb the tor, and ponder your hippie past (and where you are now).
Nearby, medieval Wells gathers around its grand cathedral. Wells is simply a cute small town, much smaller and more medieval than Bath, with a uniquely beautiful cathedral that’s best experienced at its evensong service.
GETTING AROUND THE REGION
By Car: Glastonbury and Wells are each about 20-25 miles from Bath and 140 miles from London. Drivers can do a 51-mile loop from Bath to Glastonbury (25 miles) to Wells (6 miles) and back to Bath (20 miles). Extend the trip to a 131-mile loop that includes two places covered in the next chapter: Drive from Bath to Avebury (25 miles) to Stonehenge (30 miles) to Glastonbury (50 miles) to Wells (6 miles) and back to Bath (20 miles).
By Bus and Train: The handiest train station is in Bath, served by regular trains from London’s Paddington Station (2/hour, 1.5 hours). Wells and Glastonbury are both easily accessible by bus from Bath. Buses #173 (Mon-Sat) and #174 (Sun) go direct from Bath to Wells (hourly, 75 minutes), where you can continue to Glastonbury by catching bus #376 (Mon-Sat 2/hour, Sun hourly, 20 minutes). To return to Bath, you’ll likely go back through Wells (as direct bus service from Glastonbury to Bath is very limited). A First Bus day pass (about £7) is a good deal if you plan on visiting Glastonbury and Wells from your Bath home base.
By Bike: A 10-mile path connects Wells and Glastonbury.
Glastonbury
Marked by its hill, or “tor,” and located on England’s most powerful line of prehistoric sites, the town of Glastonbury gurgles with history and mystery.
In AD 37, Joseph of Arimathea—Jesus’ wealthy uncle—reputedly brought vessels containing the blood of Jesus to Glastonbury, and with him, Christianity came to England. (Joseph’s visit is plausible—long before Christ, locals traded lead and tin with merchants from the Levant.)
While this story is “proven” by fourth-century writings and accepted by the Church, the King-Arthur-and-the-Holy-Grail legends it inspired are not. Those medieval tales came when England needed a morale-boosting folk hero for inspiration during a war with France. They pointed to the ancient Celtic sanctuary at Glastonbury as proof enough of the greatness of the fifth-century warlord Arthur. In 1191, after a huge fire, Arthur’s supposed remains (along with those of Queen Guinevere) were dug up from the abbey garden. They were reburied in the abbey choir, and Arthur and Guinevere’s gravesite is a shrine today. Many think the Grail trail ends at the bottom of the Chalice Well, a natural spring at the base of the Glastonbury Tor.
By the 10th century, Glastonbury Abbey was England’s most powerful and wealthy, part of a nationwide network of monasteries that by 1500 owned one-quarter of all English land and had four times the income of the Crown. Then Henry VIII began dissolving the abbeys in 1536. He was particularly harsh on Glastonbury—he not only destroyed the abbey but also hung and quartered the abbot, sending his body on four different national tours...at the same time. This was meant as a warning to other religious clerics, and it worked.
But Glastonbury rebounded. In an 18th-century publicity campaign, thousands signed affidavits stating that they’d been healed by water from the Chalice Well, and once again Glastonbury was on the tourist map. Today, Glastonbury and its tor are a center for “searchers”—too weird for the mainstream Church but just right for those looking for a place to recharge their crystals. Glastonbury is also synonymous with its summer music-and-arts festival, a long-hair-and-mud Woodstock re-creation that’s a rite of passage for young music lovers in Britain.
Part of the fun of a visit to Glastonbury is just being in a town where every other shop or eatery is a New Age place. Locals complain that on High Street, you can buy any kind of magic crystal or incense—but not a roll of TP. But, as this counterculture is their town’s bread and butter, they do their best to sit in their pubs and go “Ommmmm.”
Orientation to Glastonbury
TOURIST INFORMATION
The TI, located in St. Dunstan’s House near the abbey, gives out a free town map and sells several inexpensive booklets about area walks (daily 10:00-15:00, 1 Magdalene Street, +44 1458 333 144, https://glastonburyinformationcentre.co.uk).
ARRIVAL IN GLASTONBURY
The bus from Bath and Wells drops you off directly in front of the abbey entrance on Magdalene Street. Because the St. Dunstan’s parking lot near the TI often fills up, a better option for drivers is to park at the St. John’s lot at 10 St. John’s Square, a five-minute walk from High Street.
HELPFUL HINTS
Market Day: The St. Dunstan’s parking lot near the TI hosts a Tuesday market for crafts, knickknacks, and local produce. There’s also a country market Tuesday mornings in the Town Hall.
Glastonbury Festival: Nearly every summer (generally around the solstice in June), the gigantic Glastonbury Festival—billing itself as the “largest music and performing arts festival in the world”—brings all manner of postmodern flower children to its notoriously muddy “Healing Fields.” More than 200,000 music fans make the trek each year to see the hottest British and American bands. Anticipate increased traffic and crowds (especially on public transit), even though the actual music venue—practically a temporary city of its own—is six miles east of town (www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk).
Sights in Glastonbury
I’ve listed these sights in the order you’ll reach them, moving from the town center to the tor.
Glastonbury Town
The tiny town itself is worth a pleasant stroll. The abbey came first, and Glastonbury grew up to serve it. For example, the George and Pilgrims Inn was originally a freestanding structure built in the 15th century to house spiritual sojourners. And St. John’s Church, which dates from the same century, was constructed to give townsfolk a place to worship, as they weren’t allowed in the abbey. The Market Cross at the base of High Street dates from around 1800.
Though Glastonbury is much older, its vibe dates to 1970, when the town hosted its first rock festival. Like Woodstock, it was held on a farm. Unlike Woodstock, the Glastonbury Festival had legs—it’s been held on the same farm almost every year since. You’ll still see many hippie and New Age shops in town.
▲▲Glastonbury Abbey
The massive and evocative ruins of the first Christian sanctuary in the British Isles stand mysteriously alive in a lush 36-acre park. Because it comes with a small museum, a dramatic history, and enthusiastic guides dressed in period costumes, this is one of the most engaging to visit of England’s many ruined abbeys.
Cost and Hours: £11; daily 10:00-18:00, March and Oct until 17:00, Nov-Feb until 16:00, last entry 45 minutes before closing.
Information: +44 1458 832 267, www.glastonburyabbey.com.
Getting There: Enter the abbey from Magdalene Street (around the corner from High Street, near the Town Hall and TI).
Tours and Demonstrations: Costumed guides offer free 30- to 40-minute tours throughout the day. Times vary; check the schedule as you enter. Your ticket allows you to come and go as you like, so you can always leave to explore the town and return later. Check the website before you go for special events (some require preregistration).
Eating: Picnicking is encouraged. Bring something from one of the shops in town (see “Eating in Glastonbury,” later), or buy food at the abbey’s small café (open April-Oct).
Background: The space that these ruins occupy has been sacred ground since the druids used it as a pagan holy site. Because of the legendary connection with Joseph of Arimathea, 12th-century Glastonbury was the leading Christian pilgrimage site in all of Britain. The popular abbey grew powerful and very wealthy, employing 1,000 people to serve the needs of the pilgrims.
In 1184, there was a devastating fire in the monastery, and in 1191, the abbot here “discovered”—with the help of a divine dream—the tomb and bodies of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere. Of course, this discovery boosted the pilgrim trade in Glastonbury and the new revenues helped to rebuild the abbey.
Then, in 1539, King Henry VIII ordered the abbey’s destruction. When Glastonbury Abbot Richard Whiting questioned the king’s decision, he was branded a traitor, hung at the top of Glastonbury Tor (after carrying up the plank that would support his noose), and his body cut into four pieces. His head was stuck over the gateway to the former abbey precinct. After this harsh example, the other abbots accepted the king’s dissolution of England’s abbeys, with many returning to monastic centers in France. Glastonbury Abbey fell into ruin and was used as a quarry.
Today, the abbey attracts both the curious and pious. Tie-dyed, starry-eyed pilgrims seem to float through the grounds, naturally high. Others lie on the grave of King Arthur, whose burial site is marked off in the center of the abbey ruins.
Self-Guided Tour: After buying your ticket, pick up a map and tour the informative museum at the entrance building. A model shows the abbey in its pre-Henry VIII splendor, and exhibits tell the story of a place “grandly constructed to entice the dullest minds to prayer.” Knowledgeable costumed guides are eager to share the site’s story and might even offer an impromptu tour.
Next, head out to explore the green park, dotted with bits of the ruined abbey. You come face-to-face with the abbey’s Lady Chapel, the site of the first wattle-and-daub church, possibly dating to the first century. Today, the crypt is dug out and exposed; posted information helps you imagine its 12th-century splendor.
The Lady Chapel became the abbey’s west entry when the church expanded. The abbey was long and skinny, but vast. Measuring 580 feet, it was the longest in Britain (larger than York Minster is today) and Europe’s largest building north of the Alps.
Before poking around the ruins, circle to the left behind the entrance building to find a thorn tree. According to legend, when Joseph of Arimathea came here, he climbed nearby Wearyall Hill and stuck his staff into the soil. The staff took root and grew into a remarkable thorn tree that bloomed twice a year. Over the centuries, locals took cuttings of the “Holy Thorn,” and the descendants of the original tree continue to bloom at Easter and Christmas. If the story seems far-fetched to you, don’t tell the royals—a blossom from a Glastonbury thorn sits proudly on their breakfast table every Christmas morning.
Ahead and to the left of the tree, inside what was the north wall, look for two trap doors in the ground. Lift them to see surviving fragments of the abbey’s original tiled floor.
Now hike through the remains of the ruined complex to the far end of the abbey. You can stand and, from what was the altar, look down at what was the gangly nave. Envision the longest church nave in England. In this area, you’ll find the tombstone (formerly in the floor of the church’s choir) marking the spot where the supposed relics of Arthur and Guinevere were interred.
Continue around the far side of the abbey ruins, feeling free to poke around the park. Imagine all this green space—just a tiny part of the lands owned by the abbey—bustling with the daily business of a powerful monastic community.
All those monks needed to eat. Take a look at the abbot’s conical kitchen, the only surviving intact building on the grounds (see photo). Its size, and its simple exhibit about life in the abbey, gives you an idea of how big the community once was.
NEAR GLASTONBURY TOR
The tor is a steep hill at the southeastern edge of town (it’s visible from just about everywhere). The other two sights (the gardens and springs) are on your way to/from the tor.
Getting There: The garden and springs are about a 15-minute walk from the town center, toward the tor. The base of the tor is an additional five minutes. Climbing the tor takes another 15-20 minutes.
If you don’t want to walk to the tor, you have two options: The Tor Bus shuttles visitors from the town center to the base of the tor, stopping at the Chalice Well Gardens en route (£4 round-trip, cash only, departs from St. Dunstan’s parking lot near the TI, daily every half-hour 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-17:00, doesn’t run Oct-March). If you have a car, you won’t find much parking nearby, so expect a bit of a hike (try the pay lot at the Draper sheepskin shop, near the Chalice Well on Chilkwell Street). A taxi to the tor trailhead costs about £7 one-way. These take you to the bottom of the tor; to reach the top, you still have to hike.
A good plan is to ride the shuttle bus to the tor, climb to the top, hike down, drop by Chalice Well Gardens, and stroll back into town from there.
Chalice Well Gardens
According to tradition, in AD 37 Joseph of Arimathea brought the chalice said to have been used by Jesus at the Last Supper to Glastonbury. Also known as the Holy Grail, the chalice supposedly ended up at the bottom of a well, which is now the centerpiece of this peaceful and inviting garden. Even if the fabled chalice is not here (another legend says it made the trip to Wales), and the water is red from iron ore and not Jesus’ blood, the tranquil setting attracts pilgrims. If you’re a fan of gardens—or want to say you’ve completed your grail quest—this place is worth a visit. To find the well itself, follow the well-marked path uphill alongside the gurgling stream, passing several places where you can drink from or wade in the healing water, as well as areas designated for silent reflection. The stones of the well shaft date from the 12th century and are believed to have come from the church in Glastonbury Abbey (which was destroyed by fire). In the 18th century, pilgrims flocked to Glastonbury for the well’s healing powers. Have a drink or take some of the precious water for the road—they sell empty bottles to fill.
Cost and Hours: £5, daily 10:00-17:30, Nov-March until 16:30, on Chilkwell Street/A-361, +44 1458 831 154, www.chalicewell.org.uk.
Red and White Spring Waters
If you’d just like to sample the fabled water, two waterspouts are just around the corner from the Chalice Well Gardens entrance (just beyond the trailhead to the tor, where the bus drops off). The spout on the Chalice Well side comes from the Red Spring; the other spout’s source is the White Spring. Try both and see which you prefer.
▲Glastonbury Tor
Seen by many as a Mother Goddess symbol, the Glastonbury Tor—a natural plug of sandstone on clay—has an undeniable geological charisma. Climbing the tor is the essential activity on a visit to Glastonbury. A fine Somerset view rewards those who hike to its 520-foot summit.
Climbing the Tor: From the base of the tor, a trail leads to the top (about 15-20 minutes, if you keep a brisk pace). While you can hike up the tor from either end, the less-steep approach (which most people take) starts next to the Chalice Well.
As you climb, survey the surrounding land—a former swamp, inhabited for 12,000 years, which is still below sea level at high tide. Up until the 11th century you could actually sail here. The ribbon-like man-made drainage canals that glisten as they slice through the farmland are the work of engineers—Huguenot refugees who turned the marshy wasteland into something arable.
Looking out, find Glastonbury (at the base of the hill) and Wells (marked by its cathedral) to the right. Above Wells, a TV tower marks the 996-foot high point of the Mendip Hills. It was lead from these hills that attracted the ancient Romans (and, perhaps, Jesus’ uncle Joe) so long ago. Stretching to the left, the Mendip Hills define what was the coastline before those Huguenot engineers arrived.
The tor-top tower is the remnant of a chapel dedicated to St. Michael. Early Christians often employed St. Michael, the warrior angel, to combat pagan gods. When a church was built upon a pagan holy ground like this, it was frequently dedicated to Michael. But apparently those pagan gods fought back: St. Michael’s Church was destroyed by an earthquake in 1275.
Eating in Glastonbury
$ Rainbow’s End is one of several fine, healthy, vegetarian lunch spots featuring hot dishes (including vegan and gluten-free options), soups, salads, herbal teas, yummy homemade sweets, and New Age people-watching. If you’re looking for a midwife or a male-bonding meeting, check their notice board (lunch only, closed Wed; 17 High Street, +44 1458 833 896).
$ Burns the Bread has two convenient locations making hearty pasties (savory meat pies) as well as fresh pies, sandwiches, pastries, and delicious cookies. Ask for a sample of the Torsy Moorsy Cake (a type of fruitcake made with cheddar), or try a gingerbread man made with real ginger. Grab a pasty and picnic with the ghosts of Arthur and Guinevere in the abbey ruins (Mon-Sat 8:00-16:00, Sun from 10:00, main location at 14 High Street, smaller shop in St. Dunstan’s parking lot next to the abbey is closed Sun, +44 1458 831 532).
$ Knights Fish and Chips Restaurant has been in the same family since 1909 and is the town’s top chippy. It’s another fine option for a picnic at the abbey (prices higher for table service, closed Sun; 5 Northload Street, +44 1458 831 882, Kevin and Charlotte).
$$ The George & Pilgrims Inn’s wonderfully Old World pub could be exactly what the doctor ordered when you’re suffering a New Age overdose. The local owners offer up a traditional pub-grub menu (daily, 1 High Street, +44 1458 831 146). They also rent spacious $$$ rooms; see RedCatPubCompany.com/inns.
Glastonbury Connections
Local buses are run by First Bus Company (+44 345 646 0707, www.firstbus.co.uk).
From Glastonbury by Bus to: Wells (3/hour, 20 minutes, bus #376 headed to Bristol), Bath (nearly hourly, allow 2 hours, take bus to Wells, transfer to bus #173 or #171 to Bath). Buses are sparse on Sundays (generally one bus every other hour). If you’re heading to points west, you’ll likely connect through Taunton (which is a transfer point for westbound buses from Bristol).
Wells
Because this well-preserved little town has a cathedral, it can be called a city. It’s England’s smallest cathedral city (pop. just under 12,000), with one of its most interesting cathedrals and a wonderful evensong service (generally not offered July-Aug). Of all the towns you’ll visit, Wells has the most buildings still operating as originally intended, and you’ll spot a number of wells and springs that helped give the town its name. Markets fill the town square on Wednesday (farmers market) and Saturday (general goods).
Orientation to Wells
TOURIST INFORMATION
The TI is in the Town Hall on Market Square, next to the Bishop’s Palace. Consider picking up their free town map or buying the inexpensive Wells City Trail booklet (Mon-Sat 9:00-15:00, 8 Cathedral Green, +44 1749 673 091, www.wellssomerset.com).
Walking Tour: If you’re here on a Wednesday, consider a town walking tour leaving from The Crown on Market Place (£7, departs at 11:00 in peak season, 1.5 hours, www.wellswalkingtours.co.uk; private tours available via guide@wellswalkingtours.co.uk).
ARRIVAL IN WELLS
If you’re coming by bus, you can get off in the city center at the Sadler Street stop, around the corner from the cathedral (tell the driver that’s your stop). Or you can disembark at the big, well-organized bus station/parking lot (staffed Mon-Fri 9:30-13:30), about a five-minute walk from the town center at the south end of town. Find the Wells map at the head of the stalls to get oriented (the big church tower you see is not the cathedral); the signpost at the main pedestrian exit directs you downtown.
Drivers will find limited parking and confusing one-way streets in the city center; it’s simpler to park at the Princes Road lot next to the bus station (enter on Priory Road) and walk five minutes to the cathedral.
HELPFUL HINTS
Wells Carnival: Every November, Wells hosts one of the world’s biggest illuminated carnivals, featuring spectacular floats, street performers, and a market fair (www.wellssomerset.com).
Best Views: It’s hard to beat the grand views of the cathedral from the green in front of it...but the reflecting pool tucked inside the Bishop’s Palace grounds tries hard. For a fine cathedral-and-town view from your own leafy hilltop bench, hike 10 minutes up Torwoods Hill. The trail starts on Tor Street behind the Bishop’s Palace.
Sights in Wells
WELLS CATHEDRAL
The city’s highlight is England’s first completely Gothic cathedral, dating from about 1200 and rated ▲▲. Locals claim this church has the largest collection of medieval statuary north of the Alps. It certainly has one of the widest and most elaborate facades I’ve seen, and unique figure-eight “scissor arches” that are unforgettable.
Cost and Hours: Free, £8 donation requested; daily 7:00-18:00; for evensong times, see “More Cathedral Sights,” later.
Information: +44 1749 674 483, www.wellscathedral.org.uk.
Tours: One-hour tours are included with your donation and run Mon-Sat at 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, and 14:00; may vary seasonally and with other events going on in the cathedral. Additional paid tours are available, some of which explore the upper areas and the 17th-century library; see the cathedral website (look for the “Concert & Tour Tickets” link).
Eating: The recommended Loft Café has views of the West Front of the cathedral and the grounds of the Bishop’s Palace.
Self-Guided Tour
Begin on the large, inviting green in front of the cathedral. In the Middle Ages, the cathedral was enclosed within “The Liberty,” an area free from civil jurisdiction until the 1800s. The Liberty included the green on the west side of the cathedral, which, from the 13th to the 17th century, was a burial place for common folk, including 17th-century plague victims. The green became a cricket pitch, then a field for grazing animals and picnicking people. Today, it’s the perfect spot to marvel at an impressive cathedral.
Peer up at the magnificent 1 facade. The west front displays almost 300 original 13th-century carvings of kings and the Last Judgment. The bottom row of niches is empty, too easily reached by Oliver Cromwell’s men, who were hell-bent on destroying “graven images.” Stand back and imagine it as a grand Palm Sunday welcome with a cast of hundreds—all gaily painted back then, choristers singing boldly from holes above the doors and trumpets tooting through the holes up by the 12 apostles.
Now head inside. Visitors enter by going to the right of the facade, through the door under the small spire, into the lobby and welcome center.
At the 2 welcome center, you’ll be warmly greeted and reminded how expensive it is to maintain the cathedral. Pay the donation and pick up a map of the cathedral’s highlights.
Then head through the 3 cloister, noting the window tracery in the Perpendicular Gothic style and the evocative tombstones. Pause to take in the view of the south side of the cathedral.
Now enter the cathedral. At your first glance down the nave, you’re immediately struck by the general sense of light and the unique “scissors” or hourglass-shaped 4 double arch (added in 1338 to transfer weight from the south—where the foundations were sinking under the tower’s weight—to the east, where they were firm).
Until Henry VIII and the Reformation, the interior was opulently painted in golds, reds, and greens. Later it was whitewashed. Then, in the 1840s, the church experienced the Victorian “great scrape,” as locals peeled moldy whitewash off and revealed the bare stone we see today. The floral ceiling painting is based on the original medieval design: A single pattern was discovered under the 17th-century whitewash and repeated throughout.
Small, ornate, 15th-century pavilion-like chapels flank the altar, carved in lacy Gothic for church VIPs. On the right, the 5 pulpit features a post-Reformation, circa-1540 English script—rather than the standard Latin (see where the stonemason ran out of space when carving the inscription—we’ve all been there). Since this was not a monastery church, the Reformation didn’t destroy it as it did the Glastonbury Abbey church.
We’ll do a quick clockwise spin around the cathedral’s interior. First walk down the left aisle until you reach the north transept. The 6 medieval clock does a silly but much-loved joust on the quarter-hour. If you get to watch the show, notice how—like clockwork—the same rider gets clobbered, as he has for hundreds of years. The clock’s face, which depicts the earth at the center of the universe, dates from 1390. The outer ring shows hours, the middle ring shows minutes, and the inner ring shows the dates of the month and phases of the moon. Above and to the right of the clock is Jack Blandiver, a chap carved out of wood in the 14th century. Beneath the clock, the fine crucifix (1947) was carved out of a yew tree. Also in the north transept is a door with well-worn steps leading up to the 7 Chapter House, a grand space for huddles among church officials. Its sublime “tierceron” vaulting—a forerunner of the fan vaults you can see in later English Gothic style—make this one of the most impressive medieval ceilings in the country.
Now continue down the left aisle. On the right is the entrance to the 8 choir (or “quire,” the central zone where the daily services are sung). Go in and take a close look at the embroidery work on the cushions, which celebrate the hometowns of important local church leaders. Up above the east end of the choir is “Jesse’s Window,” depicting Jesus’ family tree. It’s also called the “Golden Window,” because it’s bathed in sunlight each morning.
Head back out to the aisle the way you came in and continue to the end of the church. On the outside wall, on the left, is the entry to the undercroft, now a cathedral history exhibit worth a look. In the apse you’ll find the 9 Lady Chapel. Examine the medieval stained-glass windows. Do they look jumbled? In the 17th century, Puritan troops trashed the precious original glass. Much was repaired, but many of the broken panes were like a puzzle that was never solved. That’s why today many of the windows are simply kaleidoscopes of colored glass.
Next to the chapel is the oldest known piece of wooden furniture in England: a “cope chest,” which is still used to store the clergy’s garments. It is so large it can’t be moved out through any of the cathedral’s doors. Historians theorize that the chest is older than the existing building, and was originally installed around AD 800, in the Saxon church that predated the cathedral.
Now circle around and head up the other aisle. As you walk, notice that many of the black tombstones set in the floor have decorative recesses that aren’t filled with brass (as they once were). After the Reformation in the 1530s, the church was short on cash, so they sold the brass lettering to raise money for roof repairs.
Once you reach the south transept, you’ll find several items of interest. The old Saxon font survives from the previous church (AD 705) and has been the site of Wells baptisms for more than a thousand years. (Its carved arches were added by Normans in the 12th century, and the cover is from the 17th century.) In the far end of this transept (in the shade of the fancy chapels), a little of the original green and red wall painting, which wasn’t whitewashed, survives.
Nearby, notice the carvings in the capitals of the freestanding pillars, with whimsical depictions of medieval life. On the first pillar, notice the man with a toothache and another man with a thorn in his foot. The second pillar tells a story of medieval justice: On the left, we see thieves stealing grapes; on the right, the woodcutter (with an ax) is warning the farmer (with the pitchfork) what’s happening. Circle around to the back of the pillar for the rest of the story: On the left, the farmer chases one of the thieves, grabbing him by the ear. On the right, he clobbers the thief over the head with his pitchfork—so hard the farmer’s hat falls off.
Also in the south transept, you’ll find the entrance to the cathedral 10 Reading Room and Chained Library (free, Mon-Fri 14:00-16:00; it’s also often possible to step in for a quick look on Sat mornings). Housing a few old manuscripts, it offers a peek into a real 16th-century library. At the back of the Reading Room, peer through the doors and notice the irons chaining the books to the shelves—a reflection perhaps of the trust in the clergy at that time.
Head out into the cloister and walk around the square to the welcome center, shop, café, and exit. Go in peace.
MORE CATHEDRAL SIGHTS
▲▲Cathedral Evensong Service
The cathedral choir takes full advantage of heavenly acoustics with a nightly 45-minute evensong service. You’ll sit right in the old “quire” as you listen to a great pipe organ and the world-famous Wells Cathedral choir.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat at 17:15, Sun at 15:00, generally no service when school is out July-Aug unless a visiting choir performs, to check call +44 1749 674 483 or visit www.wellscathedral.org.uk. At 17:05 (Sun at 14:50), the verger ushers visitors to their seats. There’s usually plenty of room.
Returning to Bath After the Evensong: If taking public transit back to Bath after the evensong, check the schedule in advance. The direct bus back to Bath may stop running before you get out; if so, you’ll likely have to connect in Bristol; check schedules at www.firstbus.co.uk.
Other Cathedral Concerts: The cathedral hosts several evening concerts each month (most £20-30, generally Thu-Sat at 19:00 or 19:30, buy tickets via the link on the cathedral’s website, or ask at the welcome desk to book in person).
Vicars’ Close
Lined with perfectly pickled 14th-century houses, this block from 1349 is the oldest continuously occupied complete street in Europe (just north of the cathedral—go under the big arch and look left). It was built to house the vicar’s choir, and it still houses church officials and choristers. These dwellings were bachelor pads until the Reformation allowed clerics to marry; they were then redesigned to accommodate families. Notice how the close gets narrower at the top, creating the illusion that it is a longer lane than it is. Note also the elevated passageway connecting these choristers’ quarters with the church.
▲Bishop’s Palace
Next to the cathedral stands the moated Bishop’s Palace, built in the 13th century and still in use today as the residence of the bishop of Bath and Wells. While the interior of the palace itself is dull, the grounds and gardens surrounding it are the most tranquil and scenic spot in Wells, with wonderful views of the cathedral. It’s just the place for a relaxing walk in the park. Watch the swans ring the bell—hanging over the water just left of the entry gate—when they have an attack of the munchies.
Cost and Hours: £16; daily 9:30-17:30, Nov-March 10:00-16:00, includes guided tour at set times (usually 12:00; inquire at ticket office); sometimes closed for special events—check website to confirm; +44 1749 988 111, www.bishopspalace.org.uk.
Visiting the Palace and Gardens: The palace’s spring-fed moat was built in the 14th century to protect the bishop during squabbles with the borough. Bishops would generously release this potable water into the town during local festivals. Now the moat serves primarily as a pool for mute swans. The bridge was last drawn in 1831. Crossing that bridge, you’ll buy your ticket and enter the grounds (past the old-timers playing a proper game of croquet—several times a week after 13:30). On your right, pass through the evocative ruins of the Great Hall (which was deserted and left to gradually deteriorate), and stroll through the chirpy south lawn. If you’re feeling energetic, hike up to the top of the ramparts that encircle the property.
Circling around the far side of the mansion, walk through a door in the rampart wall, cross the wooden bridge, and follow a path to a smaller bridge and the wells (springs) that gave the city its name. Surrounding a reflecting pool with the cathedral towering overhead, these flower-bedecked pathways are idyllic. Nearby are an arboretum, picnic area, and sweet little pea-patch gardens.
After touring the gardens, the mansion’s interior is a letdown—despite the borrowable descriptions that struggle to make the dusty old place meaningful. Have a spot of tea in the café (with outdoor garden seating) or climb the creaky wooden staircase to wander long halls lined with portraits of bishops past.
Eating: A café is located next to the cricket field in the front garden (described in “Sleeping and Eating in and near Wells,” later).
Wells & Mendip Museum
This museum, just across the cathedral green, houses displays on the archaeology and geology of the nearby Mendip Hills and Wookey Caves, along with an exhibit on World War I (£4, Tue-Sat 10:00-16:00, +44 1749 673 477, www.wellsmuseum.org.uk).
SIGHTS NEAR WELLS
The following stops are best for drivers.
Cheddar Cheese
If you’re in the mood for a picnic, drop by any local aromatic cheese shop for a great selection of tasty Somerset cheeses. Real farmhouse cheddar puts Velveeta to shame. The Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company, eight miles west of Wells, gives guests a chance to see the cheese-making process and enjoy a sample (£2.50, daily 11:30-15:00; take the A-39, then the A-371 to Cheddar Gorge; +44 1934 742 810, www.cheddargorgecheeseco.co.uk).
Scrumpy Farms
Scrumpy is the wonderfully dangerous hard cider brewed in this part of England. You don’t find it served in many pubs because of the unruly crowd it attracts. “Scrumpy Jack,” carbonated mass-produced cider, is not real scrumpy. The real stuff is a potent “rough farmhouse cider” that will rot your socks. It’s said some farmers throw a side of beef into the vat, and when fermentation is done only the teeth remain. (Some use a pair of old boots, for the tannin from the leather.)
TIs list cider farms open to the public, such as Wilkins Cider Farm (also known as Land’s End Farm)—a great Back Door travel experience (free, Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun until 13:00; west of Wells in Mudgley, take the B-3139 from Wells to Wedmore, then the B-3151 south for 2 miles, farm is a quarter-mile off the B-3151—tough to find, get close and ask locals; +44 1934 712 385, www.wilkinscider.com).
Apples are pressed from August through December. Hard cider, while not quite scrumpy, is also typical of the West Country, but more fashionable, “decent,” and accessible. You can get a pint of hard cider at nearly any pub, drawn straight from the barrel—dry, medium, or sweet.
Nunney Castle
The centerpiece of the charming and quintessentially English village of Nunney (between Bath and Glastonbury, off the A-361) is a striking 14th-century castle surrounded by a fairy-tale moat. Its rare, French-style design brings to mind the Paris Bastille. The year 1644 was a tumultuous one for Nunney. Its noble family was royalist (and likely closet Catholics). They defied Parliament, so Parliament ordered their castle “slighted” (deliberately destroyed) to ensure that it would threaten the order of the land no more. Looking at this castle, so daunting in the age of bows and arrows, you can see how it was no match for the modern cannon. The pretty Mendip village of Nunney, with its little brook, is also worth a wander.
Cost and Hours: Free, visitable at “any reasonable time,” +44 370 333 1181, www.english-heritage.org.uk.
Sleeping and Eating in and near Wells
Sleeping in Wells: $$$ Swan Hotel has comfortable Tudor-style rooms overlooking the cathedral. Prices vary based on whether you want extras like a four-poster bed (Sadler Street, +44 1749 836 300, www.swanhotelwells.co.uk).
Sleeping near Wells: $$ Middle Farm Cottage is a cozy B&B in the village of Dinder, 2.5 miles outside of Wells. It has three rooms and a peaceful garden. The place is run by friendly David, who fixes a hearty breakfast every morning, and Julie, who sometimes cooks a homestyle kitchen supper (two-night minimum, supper must be reserved ahead, Riverside Dinder, +44 1749 672 120, david@costley-white.com).
Eating in Wells: Downtown Wells is tiny. A fine variety of eating options are within a block or two of its market square, including classic pubs and little delis, bakeries, and takeaway places serving light meals.
$$ The Fountain Inn, on a quiet street 50 yards behind the cathedral, serves good pub grub (closed Mon and Wed, closed for dinner Sun, St. Thomas Street, +44 1749 672 317).
$ The Loft Café at Wells Cathedral offers a handy—if not heavenly—lunch (lunch daily, +44 1749 676 543).
$ The Bishop’s Table is a cafeteria situated in the front garden of Bishop’s Palace. Enjoy breakfast or lunch, possibly with a game of cricket to watch on the nearby field (daily, +44 1749 988 111).
$$ The Swan Hotel pub serves meals and afternoon tea in their garden across the street with a view over the green and cathedral (daily, Sadler Street, +44 1749 836 300).
Wells Connections
The most convenient train station is in Bath. The bus station in Wells is at a well-organized bus parking lot at the intersection of Priory and Princes roads. Local buses are run by First Bus Company (+44 345 646 0707, www.firstbus.co.uk), while buses to and from London are run by National Express (+44 871 781 8181, www.nationalexpress.com).
From Wells by Bus to: Bath (1-2/hour, less frequent on Sun, 75 minutes, some with transfers in Bristol), Glastonbury (3/hour, 20 minutes, take bus #376 toward the town of Street), London (1/day direct, 3.5 hours; hourly with a change in Bristol, 4.5 hours).