INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Y
Z      

A

ABEP (Lisbon): 36, 131, 132

A Brasileira (Lisbon): 78, 146

Accommodations: See Pousadas; Quartos; Sleeping; and specific destinations

Afonso Henriques (Afonso I): 6, 52, 54, 56, 57, 280, 295, 297–298, 305, 316, 418–419, 423; tomb of (Coimbra), 319

Age of Discovery (1400-1600): 6, 106–110; about, 109, 419, 422; map of voyages, 107; Maritime Museum (Lisbon), 47, 105–106; Monument to the Discoveries (Lisbon), 47, 106–109; Navigators’ School (Sagres), 197–201

Airports: Lisbon, 35, 155–156; Porto, 397

Air travel: 23, 25, 467–468

Alcobaça: 294–300; sights, 295–300; tourist information, 294–295; transportation, 295, 300

Alcobaça Market: 299–300

Alcobaça Monastery: 295–299; map, 296

Alentejo region: 232–257; about, 240; guided tours, 236. See also Évora

Alfama (Lisbon): 34, 43, 44, 46, 51–60; best viewpoints, 43; eating, 155; fado, 60, 130–131; guided tours, 48–49; maps, 53, 154; transportation, 51–52; walking tour, 51–60

Algarve, the: 12, 181–231; map, 182–183; planning tips, 182–183; transportation, 183. See also specific destinations

Aljube Museum of Resistance and Freedom (Lisbon): 46–47, 82–83

Almanac: 424–425

Almendres Cromeleque: 251–252

Amarante: 403

Amoreiras (Lisbon): 45

Ancient Art, Museum of (Lisbon): 46, 91–93

Andante Card (Porto): 352

Anta Grande do Zambujeiro: 252–253

Anthony, Saint: 59, 82, 211, 318; Day, 59, 471

Apartment rentals: 444–447

Apps: 26, 456; booking sites, 444; language translation, 28; messaging, 457; navigation and maps, 437, 464; payment, 433; sightseeing, 439; user reviews, 445

April 25 Street (Lagos): 210

Aquarium, in Lisbon: 113

Archaeolological sites: See Megalithic sites; Romans, ancient

Architecture: castles, 421; churches, 420; Manueline, 104. See also Churches and cathedrals; Monasteries; and specific buildings

Arch of Triumph (Lisbon): 63

Arco de Almedina (Coimbra): 317, 322–323

Armazéns Cunhas (Porto): 362

Armazéns do Chiado Mall (Lisbon): 80, 124

Art museums: Gulbenkian Museum (Lisbon), 46, 86–91; Machado de Castro Museum (Coimbra), 321, 331–332; Museum and School of Portuguese Decorative Arts (Lisbon), 57–58; Museum of Ancient Art (Lisbon), 46, 91–93; Museum of Sacred Art (Évora), 245–246; National Tile Museum (Lisbon), 47, 113–114; Serralves Foundation Contemporary Art Museum and Park (Porto), 357, 384–385

Assembleia da República (Lisbon): 42

ATMs: 432–434

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 51, 469

Autocarros: See Buses

Avenida da Liberdade (Lisbon): 71–72, 139; eating, 153; map, 140; sleeping, 139–141

Avenida da República (Nazaré): 260

Avenida dos Aliados (Porto): 356, 359, 361; eating, 395; map, 360; sleeping, 390–391

Avenida Palace (Lisbon): 70, 133, 136

A Vida Portuguesa (Lisbon): 80, 122, 124

A Vida Portuguesa (Porto): 364

Avillez, José: 76, 80, 149–150, 394

Avis Coat of Arms: 279

Azulejos: 9–10, 115, 119; National Tile Museum (Lisbon), 47, 113–114; shopping for, 119, 367

B

Bacalhau interpretive center (Lisbon): 63–64

Bairro Alto (Lisbon): 34, 46, 72, 74, 80–81; best viewpoints, 43; eating, 150–151; fado, 128, 151; maps, 73, 142–143; transportation, 45, 72; walking tour, 72, 74, 80–81

Bairro do Avillez (Lisbon): 76, 150

Baixa (Coimbra): See Old Town (Coimbra)

Baixa (Lisbon): 43, 46, 60–72; background, 60, 62; eating, 144–148; maps, 61, 134–135, 142–143; nightlife, 124–125; sleeping, 133–137; walking tour, 62–72

Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 26. See also Money

Barnacles: See Percebes

Barril Beach: 228

Basilica of Our Lady of Fátima: 285

Batalha: 273–281

Batalha Monastery: 274–281; map, 275

Beaches: Barril Beach, 228; Cabo da Roca, 177; Cacela Velha, 228; Cape Sagres, 202–203; Cascais, 117–118; Estoril, 118; Ilha de Tavira, 227–228; Lagos, 206, 213, 214–215; Luz, 202–203; Nazaré, 263–264; Ponta da Piedade, 215; Praia Adraga, 177; Salema, 187–190; Tavira, 227–228

Beer: 75–76, 148, 453; Museum (Lisbon), 63

Belcanto (Lisbon): 80, 149–150

Belém (Lisbon): 34, 93–110; at a glance, 47; crowd-beating tips, 95; eating, 97; guided tours, 48–49; itineraries, 31; map, 94–95; planning tips, 94–95; sights, 47, 96–110; tourist information, 35, 96; transportation, 94–96

Belém Palace (Lisbon): 98

Belém Tower (Lisbon): 47, 109–110

Bertrand (Lisbon): 80

Biblioteca Joanina (Coimbra): 329–330

Biking: Coimbra, 338; Tavira, 222

Birding, on Cape Sagres: 203

Bishop’s Palace (Porto): 375

Blazons Hall (Sintra): 174

Boat cruises: Cape Sagres, 203; Coimbra, 334; Douro River, 353, 356, 358, 402–403, 408, 414; Lagos, 214; Lisbon, 48, 159; map, 460; Porto, 353, 356, 358

Bolhão Market (Porto): 357, 373

Bone Chapel (Évora): 247–248

Books, recommended: 472–474

Bookstores: Lisbon, 80; Porto, 364

Borges Market (Porto): 368

Bosch, Hieronymus: 93

Brits on the Douro: 405

Budgeting (budget tips): 23–24. See also Money-saving tips

Bullfights: Évora, 253; Lisbon, 131–132; Sítio, 268

Burel Mountain Originals (Lisbon): 80, 122

“Burning of Ribbons”: 328, 472

Buses (bus travel): 458–461; Alcobaça, 295, 300; the Algarve, 183; Batalha, 274, 281; budgeting, 23; Cape Sagres, 197, 205; Coimbra, 311, 314–315, 344; Évora, 233, 257; Fátima, 284, 286–287; Lagos, 207, 218; Lisbon, 38–39, 48, 158; map, 40–41; map of country, 460; Nazaré, 261, 272–273; Óbidos, 301, 308; Porto, 350, 352, 398; Salem, 184–185; Sintra, 163–165, 179–180; Tavira, 222, 231; Tomar, 287, 294

Business hours: 431

C

Cable cars: See Funiculars

Cabo da Roca: 176–177, 179–180

Cabo São Vincente: 195, 201–202

Cabral, Pedro: 106, 107–108, 200–201, 422, 423

Cabs: See Taxis

Cacela Velha: 228

Cacilhas: 34, 114, 116; eating, 114, 116; ferries, 48, 114

Cadaval Palace (Évora): 242–243

Café A Brasileira (Lisbon): 78, 146

Café Majestic (Porto): 372

Café Santa Cruz (Coimbra): 318, 337, 343

Cais da Estiva (Porto): 370

Cais da Ribeira (Porto): See Ribeira

Cais do Sodré Station (Lisbon): 114, 144

Cálem (Porto): 382

Camera Obscura (Tavira): 226

Camino de Santiago: 226

Camões, Luís de: 79, 80, 81, 101–102, 103, 106, 177, 277, 423, 474

Campgrounds: 227

Campo de Santa Clara (Lisbon): 36, 43, 124

Campolide (Lisbon): 45

Campo Ourique (Lisbon): 42, 145

Campo Pequeno (Lisbon): 131–132

Capela de Nossa Senhora da Saúde (Lisbon): 85

Capela dos Ossos (Évora): 247–248

Cape Sagres: 195–205; map, 198–199

Cape Sagres Fort: 197–201

Cape St. Vincent: 195, 201–202

Caravels: about, 108

Car insurance: 463

Carmo Church (Porto): 363

Carnation Revolution: overview, 77

Car navigation: 464–465

Carnival: 471

Car rentals: 23, 462–463; Lagos, 207

Car travel (driving): 25, 465–467; best two-week trip, 18–19; Alcobaça, 295; the Algarve, 231; Batalha, 274, 281; Cape Sagres, 197; Coimbra, 311, 314; Douro Valley, 403; Évora, 236; Fátima, 284; Lagos, 207; Lisbon, 158–159; mileage and time, 464; Nazaré, 261; Óbidos, 308; Porto, 350–351; road signs, 465; Salem, 185; Sintra, 162, 179; Tavira, 222, 231; Tomar, 287

Casa da Música (Porto): 385

Casa da Sorte (Coimbra): 317

Casa de S. Thiago do Castelo (Óbidos): 306

Casa de Serralves (Porto): 385

Casa do Infante (Porto): 378

Casal de Loivos: sleeping, 417

Casa Pastéis de Belém (Lisbon): 47, 98–99

Cascais: 117–118

Casino, in Estoril: 118

Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra): 169–170

Castle Garden (Tavira): 224–225

Castle of the Knights Templar (Tomar): 289, 292

Castles: architecture, 421. See also specific castles

Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals

Cell phones: 26, 454–457. See also Apps

Centro Comercial da Mouraria (Lisbon): 44, 85

Cervejaria da Trindade (Lisbon): 75–76, 148

Chanceleiros: sleeping, 416–417

Chão do Loureiro (Lisbon): 85

Chapel of Apparitions (Fátima): 286

Chapel of Bones (Évora): 247–248

Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Saúde (Lisbon): 85

Chiado (Lisbon): 34, 43, 46, 72, 74; best viewpoints, 43; eating, 148–150; fado, 129; map, 73; shopping, 80; sleeping, 137–139; transportation, 45, 72; walking tour, 72–81

Chiado Building (Coimbra): 317, 334

Christ of Majesty statue (Lisbon): 43, 52, 116–117

Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 420; Carmo Church (Porto), 363; Clérigos Church (Porto), 356–357, 365–366, 373–374; Coimbra Old Cathedral, 322, 332–334; Évora Cathedral, 244–246; Holy Trinity Church (Fátima), 285–286; Lisbon Cathedral, 46, 82; Lóios Church (Évora), 243–244; Misericórdia Church (Óbidos), 304; Misericórdia Church (Porto), 357, 368; Misericórdia Church (Tavira), 223–224; Our Lady of Grace (Sagres), 200; Our Lady of Nazaré (Sítio), 266–267; Our Lady of Victory (Batalha), 274–278; Porto Cathedral, 357, 374–375; St. Anthony Church (Lagos), 211; St. Francis Church (Évora), 247–248; St. Mary of Óbidos Church, 304; St. Nicholas Church (Lisbon), 65; St. Peter Church (Óbidos), 303; San Ildefonso Church (Porto), 361, 372; Santa Clara Church (Porto), 376; Santa Cruz Church (Coimbra), 318–320; Santa María Church (Tavira), 225–226; Santo Antão Church (Évora), 239; São Domingos Church (Lisbon), 66–67; São Francisco Church (Porto), 356, 369, 377–378; São Roque Church (Lisbon), 46, 74–75. See also Monasteries

Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 469

Clérigos Church and Tower (Porto): 356–357, 365–366, 373–374

Climate: 476

Clothing sizes: 475

Coach Museum (Lisbon): 47, 96–98

Coffee: 453–454

Coimbra: 14, 309–345; arrival in, 311, 314; eating, 342–344; entertainment, 337–338; helpful hints, 314; history timeline, 316; itineraries, 310; layout of, 310; maps, 312–313, 324, 340–341; planning tips, 310; sights/activities, 323–337; sleeping, 338–343; tourist information, 310; transportation, 311, 314–315, 344–345; walking tour, 315–323

Coimbra Municipal Museum: 334

Coimbra Old Cathedral: 322, 332–334

Coimbra Science Museum: 330–331

Coimbra University: See University of Coimbra

Coin market, in Lisbon: 124

Columbus, Christopher: 108, 201

Confeitaria Nacional (Lisbon): 66, 146

Conímbriga Roman Ruins: 335–337

Conservas (canned fish): 119, 122, 450

Consulates: 430

Convento da Madre de Deus (Lisbon): 113–114

Convento do Carmo (Lisbon): 76–77

Convent of Christ (Tomar): 289, 292

Cork: about, 255; shopping for, 118, 124, 246, 361

Costs of trip: 23

Covid-19 pandemic: 437; vaccine/test requirements, 25, 429–430

Credit cards: 27, 432–435

Cristo Rei (Lisbon): 43, 52, 116–117

Cromeleque dos Almendres: 251–252

Cruises: See Boat cruises

Cruise ships, in Lisbon: 159

Cryptoporticus of Aeminium (Coimbra): 331–332

Cuisine: 7–8, 449–452. See also Eating; Food; Markets

Currency and exchange: 432–434

Customs regulations: 436–437

D

Da Gama, Vasco: See Vasco da Gama

Debit cards: 27, 432–435

Dias, Bartolomeu: 103, 107–108, 201, 419, 423

Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations

Discounts: 431. See also Money-saving tips

Docapesca (Sagres): 197

Dolphin-watching, on Cape Sagres: 203

Douro Museum (Peso da Régua): 408–409

Douro River: 348, 349, 358, 370, 399, 413–414; boat cruises, 356, 358, 402–403, 408, 414; river taxi, 353, 356

Douro Valley: 16, 399–417; itineraries, 401; map, 400–401; quintas tours and tastings, 403–404, 406–407, 409–410, 414–415; tours, 403–404; transportation, 402–403

Drake, Francis: 202

Drinks: 452–454; terminology, 453. See also Ginjinha; Port wine; Wine and vineyards

Driving: See Car travel

E

Eating: 448–452; appetizers warning, 7, 150, 448; money-saving tips, 24; Portuguese restaurant phrases, 480; pricing, 449; tipping, 435, 448–449; typical Portuguese foods, 450–452. See also specific destinations

Economy: 424–425, 427–428

Edifício Chiado (Coimbra): 334

Edward VII Park (Lisbon): 34, 43, 46

El Corte Inglés (Lisbon): 124, 132

Electricity: 431

Elevador da Bica (Lisbon): 39, 43, 81

Elevador da Glória (Lisbon): 45, 72

Elevador de Santa Justa (Lisbon): 43, 45, 54, 78, 83

Elevador do Mercado (Coimbra): 321

Embaixada (Lisbon): 123

Embassies: 430

Emergencies: 430

Entertainment: See Fado; Nightlife

Environmental footprint (going green): 431–432

Estoril: 118

Estrela Basilica (Lisbon): 42

Estrela Park (Lisbon): 42

ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System): 430

Euro currency: 432–434

European Union (EU): 9, 427–428

Évora: 14, 232–257; arrival in, 233, 236; eating, 254–257; entertainment, 253; helpful hints, 236; layout of, 233; maps, 234–235, 238, 251; planning tips, 233; sights/activities, 237–253; sleeping, 253–254; tours, 236–237; transportation, 233, 236, 257; walking tour, 237–247

Évora, Museum of: 243–244

Évora Cathedral (Sé de Évora): 244–246

Évora Public Gardens: 249

Évora Public Market: 248

Évora Town Hall: 241

Évora University: 244, 249–250

Exchange rate: 433

F

Fado: about, 128; Coimbra, 322, 337–338; Évora, 253; Lisbon, 85, 127–130, 151; Porto, 386; Tavira, 224

Fado com História (Tavira): 224

Fado Museum (Lisbon): 46, 60, 130–131

Farol lighthouse (Sítio): 268

Fátima: 281–287; map, 282

Fátima Esplanade: 284

Fátima Light and Peace Exhibition: 285

Feira da Ladra (Lisbon): 124

Ferreira’s (Porto): 382–383

Ferries: Ilha de Tavira, 227; Lisbon, 48, 114

Festival de Sintra: 163, 472

Festivals: 471–472

Figueira Beach (Salema): 185, 189–190

Fish, canned: See Conservas

Fish auction, in Sagres: 197

Fishing, in Salema: 187

Flag, Portuguese: 425

Fleming, Ian: 118

Food: typical Portuguese foods, 450–452. See also Conservas; Eating; Francesinha; Markets; Pastel de nata; Percebes; Tripe; and specific destinations

Food tours: Lisbon, 50, 141; Porto, 358, 391

Fortaleza de Belixe: 202

Fortaleza de Sagres: 197–201

Fort Ponta da Bandeira (Lagos): 213

Foz da Figueira: 338

Foz do Douro (Porto): 383–384

Francesinha: 8, 391, 392, 396, 451

Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport (Porto): 397

Fundação de Serralves (Porto): 357, 384–385

Funiculars: Coimbra, 314, 321; Lisbon, 39, 45, 72, 112; Porto, 353, 376; Sítio, 265

Funicular dos Guindais (Porto): 353, 376

Furnas Beach: 202

G

Ginjinha: 68, 119 146, 303–304, 305, 453

Golf: 190

Government: 425, 427–428

Graça (Lisbon): 43

Grand Hall (Coimbra): 326–327

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 468–469; updates, 27, 468

Guides: See Tour guides

Gulbenkian Museum (Lisbon): 46, 86–91; concerts, 132; map, 87

H

Hard Rock Café (Lisbon): 72

Henry the Navigator: 91–92, 101, 106–107, 182, 195, 212, 277, 278, 289, 368–369, 374, 391, 419, 422; biographical sketch, 196, 423; House of (Porto), 378; Navigators’ School (Sagres), 197–201

Henry the Navigator Square (Porto): 368–369, 376–377

Hiking: Coimbra, 338; Salema, 190; Sintra, 169, 170–171

Historic inns: See Pousadas

History: 418–427

Holidays: 471–472

Holy Trinity Church (Fátima): 285–286

Holy Week: 471

Horse carriages, in Sintra: 165

Hostels: overview, 447–448. See also specific destinations

Hotels: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

House of Avis: overview, 279

House of Henry the Navigator (Porto): 378

House of Music (Porto): 385

I

Igreja da Santíssima Trindade (Fátima): 285–286

Igreja de São Francisco (Évora): 247–248

Igreja e Torre dos Clérigos (Porto): 365–366, 373–374

Ilha de Tavira: 227–228

Ingrina Beach: 202

Inside Lisbon: 48–49

Intendente (Lisbon): 122

Internet security: 457

Iron Gate (Coimbra): 321, 325

Itineraries: designing your own, 17, 20–22; must-see destinations, 12; worth-see destinations, 14, 16

J

Jardim da Manga (Coimbra): 320

Jardim de Diana (Évora): 242

Jardim do Príncipe Real (Lisbon): 153

Jardim Publico (Évora): 249

Jerónimos Monastery (Lisbon): 47, 99–105; map, 100

Jewish Quarter (Évora): 239

John (João) I (the Good): 66, 171, 172, 175, 196, 273–279, 419, 423, 425

John (João) III: 232, 238, 249, 279, 325–326

José I (the Reformer): 55, 60, 62–63, 69, 97–98, 249, 423

K

Kayaking, in Coimbra: 338

King João’s Library (Coimbra): 329–330

Kiosks, of Lisbon: 35, 36, 71

Knights Templar Castle (Tomar): 289, 292

Koolhaas, Rem: 385

Kopke Wine Shop (Porto): 383

L

Lagos: 205–218; eating, 216–218; helpful hints, 207; map, 208–209; sights/activities, 207–215; sleeping, 216; tourist information, 206–207; transportation, 207, 218

Lagos Market Hall: 213

Lagos Municipal Museum: 211

Lalique, René: 90

Language: drinks terms, 453; online translation tip, 431; Portuguese restaurant phrases, 480; Portuguese survival phrases, 479

Largo da Portagem (Coimbra): 315–316

Largo das Portas do Sol (Lisbon): 44–45

Largo de São Domingos (Lisbon): 67–68

Largo de São Miguel (Lisbon): 58

Largo do Carmo (Lisbon): 76

Largo do Contador Mor (Lisbon): 56, 155

Largo Rodrigues de Freitas (Lisbon): 44, 155

Largo Santa Luzia (Lisbon): 56–57

Largo São Cristóvão (Lisbon): 85

“Law 30”: 427

Leather gloves, shopping for: 122–123

Lello Bookstore (Porto): 364

LisboaCard: 35, 36–37, 162, 165, 438

Lisboa Park (Porto): 364–365

Lisbon (Lisboa): 12, 29–159; at a glance, 46–47; best viewpoints, 43; eating, 141–155; embassies, 430; entertainment, 124–132; helpful hints, 35–36; itineraries, 31; layout of, 31, 34; maps, 30, 32–33, 40–41, 53, 61, 73, 94–95, 120–121, 126, 134–135, 140, 142–143, 154; neighborhoods, 31, 34; nightlife, 124–130; planning tips, 31; vs. Porto, 351–352; shopping, 118–124; sights, 81–118; sleeping, 133–141; tourist information, 35; tours, 42–51; transportation, 36–41, 155–159; walking tours, 51–81. See also specific neighborhoods

Lisbon (Portela) Airport: 35, 155–156

Lisbon Cathedral (Sé): 45, 46, 82

Lisbon Earthquake of 1755: 29–30, 60, 62, 69, 93, 197, 219, 419, 425, 473

Lisbon Fish & Flavors: 472

Lisbon Maritime Museum: 47, 105–106

Lisbon Museum of Ancient Art: 46, 91–93

Lisbon Oceanarium: 113

Lisbon Shop: 122

Lisbon Story Center: 63

Lisbon Walker: 48–49

Lodging: See Pousadas; Sleeping; and specific destinations

Lóios Church (Évora): 243–244

Luz Beach: 202–203

LX Factory (Lisbon): 125, 127

M

McDonald’s (Porto): 361

Machado de Castro Museum (Coimbra): 321, 331–332

Magellan, Ferdinand: 106–107, 108, 200–201, 423

Magpie Room (Sintra): 172–173

Mail: 458. See also specific destinations

Manteigaria (Lisbon): 81, 149

Manuel I (the Fortunate): 29, 99–104, 115, 167, 279, 280, 319, 423

Manueline architecture: overview, 104

Mareta Beach: 202

Maritime museums: 224; Lisbon, 47, 105–106

Markets: Alcobaça, 299–300; Cascais, 117; Coimbra, 320; Évora, 248; Lagos, 213; Lisbon, 36, 42, 85, 124, 144–145; Nazaré, 264, 272; Porto, 357, 361–362, 368, 373; Salema, 193–194; Tavira, 227

Martinho da Arcada (Lisbon): 63

Medical help: 430

Megalithic sites: 250–253; guided tours, 236, 251

Mercado da Ribeira (Lisbon): 124, 144–145

Mercado de Campo de Ourique (Lisbon): 42, 145

Mercado de Escravos (Lagos): 211–212

Mercado Municipal (Coimbra): 320

Mesão Frio: 402, 403

Metric system: 475

Metro (Lisbon): 37–38, 156; map, 40–41; tickets, 36–37

Metro (Porto): 352

Miradouro das Portas do Sol (Lisbon): 43, 44, 57

Miradouro de Santa Catarina (Lisbon): 42, 43, 81

Miradouro de Santa Luzia (Lisbon): 56–57

Miradouro de São Jorge (Lisbon): 52, 54

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcãntara (Lisbon): 43, 72, 74

Misericórdia Church (Óbidos): 304

Misericórdia Church (Tavira): 223–224

Misericórdia Church and Museum (Porto): 357, 368

Miss Can (Lisbon): 56, 122, 155

Mobile phones: 26, 454–457. See also Apps

Monasteries: Jerónimos (Lisbon), 47, 99–105; Santa María (Alcobaça), 295–299; Santa María (Batalha), 274–281

Mondego River: 310, 315, 334; boat cruises, 334, 358; kayaking, 338

Money: 432–437; average daily expenses, 23; budgeting, 23–24

Money belts: 27, 36, 432, 434, 468

Money-saving tips: 23–24, 431; Lisbon, 35, 162, 165; sights, 437; sleeping, 23–24, 440–441

Moniz, Martim: 57

Monserrate: 176

Monument to the Discoveries (Lisbon): 47, 106–109

Moorish Castle (Sintra): 169–170

Mosteiro de Santa Maria (Alcobaça): 295–299

Mouraria (Évora): 84, 85, 241–242

Mouraria (Lisbon): 44, 47

Movies, recommended: 474

Movie theaters, in Lisbon: 132

MUDE-Museu do Design e da Moda (Lisbon): 65

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Lisbon): 46, 86–91; concerts, 132; map, 87

Museu da Ciência (Coimbra): 330–331

Museu de Marinha (Lisbon): 47, 105–106

Museu do Aljube (Lisbon): 46–47, 82–83

Museu do Carro Eléctrico (Porto): 383

Museu do Douro (Peso da Régua): 408–409

Museu dos Fósforos (Tomar): 292–293

Museu Dr. Joaquim Manso (Sítio): 268

Museum and School of Portuguese Decorative Arts (Lisbon): 57–58

Museum of Ancient Art (Lisbon): 46, 91–93

Museum of Évora: 243–244

Museum of Sacred Art (Évora): 245–246

Museum of the Portuguese Presidents (Lisbon): 98

Museu Municipal (Coimbra): 334

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (Lisbon): 46, 91–93

Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Lisbon): 47, 113–114

Museu Nacional dos Coches (Lisbon): 47, 96–98

Museu Nacional Machado de Castro (Coimbra): 331–332

Music: House of Music (Porto), 385. See also Fado

Musical instruments, shopping for: 123

N

Nabão River: 287, 288

Nasoni, Nicolau: 365–366, 368, 373, 374–375

National Coach Museum (Lisbon): 47, 96–98

National Palace (Sintra): 171–175

National Theater (Lisbon): 67, 132

National Tile Museum (Lisbon): 47, 113–114

Navigators’ School (Cape Sagres): 197–201

Nazaré: 14, 259–273; eating, 270–272; helpful hints, 263; layout of, 260; maps, 259, 262; planning tips, 258–259; sights/activities, 263–268; sleeping, 268–270; tourist information, 261; transportation, 261, 272–273

Nightlife: Coimbra, 337–338; Évora, 253; Lisbon, 124–130; Porto, 386; Salema, 194. See also Fado

O

Óbidos: 300–307; eating, 307; map, 302; sleeping, 306–307; transportation, 301, 308; walking tour, 301–305

Óbidos Town Square: 304

Óbidos walls: 300, 301, 303

Oceanário de Lisboa: 113

Old Cathedral of Coimbra: 322, 332–334

Old Market Hall (Tavira): 227

Old Town (Coimbra): 310, 315–323; eating, 342–344; map, 312–313; sleeping, 338–339, 342; walking tour, 315–323

Old Town Gate (Tavira): 223

Old University (Coimbra): See University of Coimbra

Oriente Train Station (Lisbon): 110–111, 157

Our Lady of Fátima: 67, 281, 285–286

Our Lady of Grace Church (Sagres): 200

Our Lady of Nazaré Church (Sítio): 266–267

Our Lady of Victory Church (Batalha): 274–278

P

Packing tips and checklist: 26, 477

Padaria Ribeiro (Porto): 362, 392

Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Lisbon): 47, 106–109

Palacio Cadaval (Évora): 242–243

Palácio da Bolsa (Porto): 356, 376–377

Palácio de Pena (Sintra): 165–169

Palácio Nacional (Sintra): 171–175

Paris em Lisboa: 80

Parque da Floresta: 190

Parque das Nacões (Lisbon): 34, 46, 110, 112; map, 111

Parque Dr. Manuel Braga (Coimbra): 334

Passports: 25, 26, 27, 430, 434

Pastelaria Briosa (Coimbra): 316

Pastel de nata: 98–99, 452; Alcobaça, 295; Lisbon, 78, 81, 98–99, 146; Óbidos, 304–305

Pedro I (the Just): 276, 279, 280, 423; biographical sketch, 299; tomb of (Alcobaça), 298–299

Pedro IV: 49, 68–69, 359, 361

Penacova: 338

Pena Palace (Sintra): 165–169

Pena Palace Park (Sintra): 169

Percebes: 7, 203, 260, 267–268, 270–271, 451

Peres, Vimara: 375

Peso da Régua: 402, 407–411; eating, 412; sights and tastings, 408–410; sleeping, 410–412; transportation, 402–403

Pessoa, Fernando: 63, 78, 79, 105, 423

Phones: 454–458

Pickpockets: 27, 36, 351, 430, 434–435

Pinhão: 402, 413–417

Pink Street (Lisbon): 125, 129

Police: 430

Pombal, Marquês de: 29–30, 54, 55, 62, 71–72, 76, 249, 399, 405, 423

Ponta da Piedade: 215

Ponte 25 de Abril (Lisbon): 52, 116

Ponte de Santa Clara (Coimbra): 315

Ponte Dom Luís I (Porto): 349, 370

Ponte Dona Maria Pia (Porto): 370

Ponte Vasco da Gama (Lisbon): 56–57, 113

Ponte Velha (Tomar): 288

Population: 424

Porta Férrea (Coimbra): 321, 325

Port and Douro Wines Institute (Porto): 369, 394

Portela Airport (Lisbon): 35, 155–156

Porto: 16, 346–398; at a glance, 356–357; arrival in, 350–351; best viewpoints, 351; eating, 391–397; helpful hints, 351–352; itineraries, 347; layout of, 348–349; vs. Lisbon, 351–352; maps, 348–349, 354–355, 360, 388–389; nightlife, 386; planning tips, 347; shopping, 361–362, 372–373; sights/activities, 358–385; sleeping, 386–391; tourist information, 350; tours, 357–358; transportation, 350–351, 352–353, 356, 397–398; walking tours, 358–371

Porto Cathedral: 357, 367

Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto): 374–375

Porto City Hall: 359

Porto City Wall: 370, 375–376

Portugal for the Little Ones (Coimbra): 334–335

Portuguese Decorative Arts, Museum and School of (Lisbon): 57–58

Portuguese restaurant phrases: 480

Portuguese survival phrases: 479

Port wine: 10; about, 380–381, 404–407, 452–453; Douro Valley, 403–410, 414–415; Lisbon, 72, 74, 127; Porto, 369, 394; Vila Nova de Gaia, 356, 378–383

Port Wine Institute (Lisbon): 72, 74, 127

Port-wine lodges, at Vila Nova de Gaia: 356, 378–383

Post offices: 458. See also specific destinations

Pousadas (historic inns): overview, 444–445

Pousada Convento de Évora: 242, 253

Pousada do Infante (Cape Sagres): 203

Pousada Óbidos: 306

Praça da Batalha (Porto): 372; sleeping, 387, 390

Praça da Figueira (Lisbon): 34, 43, 66; sleeping, 136

Praça da Liberdade (Porto): 359, 361

Praça da República (Tavira): 223

Praça da República (Tomar): 288

Praça da Ribeira (Porto): 371

Praça de Gomes Teixeira (Porto): 362

Praça de Lisboa Park (Porto): 364–365

Praça de Parada Leitao (Porto): 363

Praça de Sertório (Évora): 241

Praça do Comércio (Coimbra): 317

Praça do Comércio (Lisbon): 45; eating, 147–148

Praça do Giraldo (Évora): 237–239

Praça do Infante Dom Henrique (Porto): 368–369, 376–377

Praça dos Restauradores (Lisbon): 70–71

Praça Gil Eanes (Lagos): 207, 210

Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes (Porto): 362, 392

Praça Infante Dom Henrique (Lagos): 212

Praça Luís de Camões (Lisbon): 45, 80–81, 82

Praça Martim Moniz (Lisbon): 43, 44, 85; eating, 147

Praça Sousa Oliveira (Nazaré): 264, 268, 272

Praia Adraga: 177

Praia da Batata (Lagos): 206, 213, 214–215

Praia da Conceição (Estoril): 118

Praia das Moitas (Estoril): 118

Praia do Camilo: 215

Praia do Castelejo: 202

Praia Dona Ana (Lagos): 215

Prazeres Cemetery (Lisbon): 42

Príncipe Real (Lisbon): 45, 123–124, 153

Q

Quartos: 446–447; Cacela Velha, 228; Nazaré, 264, 270; Sagres, 204; Salema, 191, 194

Queima das Fitas: 328, 472

Quinta da Pacheca (Régua): 409–410, 411

Quinta da Regaleira (Sintra): 175–176

Quinta da Vallado (Régua): 410

Quinta de la Rosa (Pinhão): 415, 416

Quinta de Marrocos (Régua): 410

Quinta do Panascal (Pinhão): 414–415

R

Rabelo boats: 106, 346, 351, 371, 409

Rail passes: 23, 459, 468

Rail travel: See Train travel

Raposeira: 202

Rental properties: 444–447

Resources from Rick Steves: 468–469

Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations

Ria Formosa Natural Park: 228

Ribeira (Porto): 347, 348, 356, 369–371; eating, 395–396; funicular, 353, 376; map, 360; sleeping, 386–387; walking tour, 369–371

Ribeira das Naus (Lisbon): 127

Ribeira Market (Lisbon): 124, 144–145

Rio Tejo: 29, 34, 52, 64, 110; boat cruises, 48; ferries, 48, 114

Roman Aqueduct (Évora): 241

Roman Arch (Évora): 241

Roman Bridge (Tavira): 227

Romans, ancient: 29, 55, 88, 201, 210, 226, 227, 300, 403, 418; Coimbra, 331–332; Conímbriga, 335–337; Évora, 232, 239–242

Roman Temple (Évora): 242

Ronaldo, Cristiano: 423

Rooster of Barcelos: 10

Rossio (Lisbon): 34, 68–70; eating, 145–147; transportation, 45; walking tour, 68–72

Rossio Station (Lisbon): 70, 157

Rota dos Vinhos do Alentejo (Évora): 246

Royal Riding School (Lisbon): 98

Rua 1 de Dezembro (Lisbon): 147

Rua Augusta (Lisbon): 62, 64, 127

Rua Candido dos Reis (Cacilhas): 114

Rua Cinco de Outubro (Évora): 246–247

Rua da Conceição (Lisbon): 65

Rua da Fábrica (Porto): 361–362

Rua da Liberdade (Tavira): 226–227

Rua da Mouraria (Lisbon): 85

Rua da Prata (Lisbon): 65

Rua das Farinhas (Lisbon): 85

Rua das Flores (Porto): 367–368

Rua das Padarias (Sintra): 178

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão (Lisbon): 67, 68; eating, 151–152

Rua de Ferreira Borges (Coimbra): 317–318

Rua de Santa Catarina (Porto): 357, 372–373

Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo (Lisbon): 55–56

Rua de São Julião (Lisbon): 65

Rua Diario de Noticias (Lisbon): 124, 128

Rua Direita (Óbidos): 303–304

Rua do Capelão (Lisbon): 85

Rua do Comércio (Lisbon): 64–65

Rua Dom Antão de Almada (Lisbon): 66

Rua dos Pescadores (Salema): 187, 193

Rua Garrett (Lisbon): 79–80

Rua Josefa d’Óbidos: 303

Rua Nova da Trindade (Lisbon): 75

Rua Nova do Carvalho (Lisbon): 125, 129

Rua Olímpio Nicolau di Fernandes (Coimbra): 320

Rua Quebra Costas (Coimbra): 322

Rua São Pedro (Lisbon): 59–60

Rua 25 Abril (Lagos): 210

S

Sagres: 195–205; eating, 204–205; map, 198–199; sights/activities, 197–203; sleeping, 203–204; tourist information, 197; transportation, 197, 205

Sagres Fortress: 197–201

St. Anthony Church (Lagos): 211

St. Anthony’s Day: 59, 471, 472

St. Francis Church (Évora): 247–248

St. John the Baptist Chapel (Lisbon): 74–75

St. Mary of Óbidos Church: 304

St. Michael’s Chapel (Coimbra): 329

St. Nicholas Church (Lisbon): 65

St. Peter Church (Óbidos): 303

St. Vincent Lighthouse Museum: 201–202

Salazar, António: 9, 45, 64, 76, 77, 82, 83, 116, 226, 283, 309, 316, 325, 361, 426, 474; biographical sketch, 84, 423

Salema: 183–194; beaches, 187–190; eating, 192–194; helpful hints, 185–186; maps, 185, 188–189; nightlife, 194; sights/activities, 186–190; sleeping, 190–192; tourist information, 184; transportation, 184–185

Sandeman (Porto): 382

San Ildefonso Church (Porto): 361, 372

San Pedro Belvedere (Lisbon): 43, 72, 74

Santa Apolónia Station (Lisbon): 156–157, 159

Santa Catarina (Lisbon): 42, 43

Santa Clara Bridge (Coimbra): 315

Santa Clara Church (Porto): 376

Santa Cruz Church (Coimbra): 318–320

Santa Justa Lift (Lisbon): 43, 45, 54, 78, 83

Santa Luzia: 228

Santa Maria Church (Lagos): 211

Santa María Church (Tavira): 225–226

Santa Maria de Évora: 244–246

Santa María Monastery (Alcobaça): 295–299; map, 296

Santa María Monastery (Batalha): 274–281; map, 275

“Santa María Way” (Sintra): 171

Santiago de Compostela (Spain), transportation: 398

Santo Antão Church (Évora): 239

Santo Antonio at Parque da Floresta: 190

Santo António Church (Lagos): 211

São Bento Train Station (Porto): 350, 351, 352, 357, 366–367, 398

São Carlos Theater (Lisbon): 80

São Domingos Church (Lisbon): 66–67

São Francisco Church (Porto): 356, 369, 377–378

São Gonçalo: 403

São João Day: 351

São Jorge Castle (Lisbon): 43, 54–55

São Jorge Castle Gate (Lisbon): 51

São Roque Church (Lisbon): 46, 74–75

São Roque Museum (Lisbon): 75

Saudade: 6, 9, 128

Science Museum (Coimbra): 330–331

Scuba diving, on Cape Sagres: 203

Sé: See Churches and cathedrals

Seasons: 20, 27

Sebastian, King: 70, 173–174, 210, 279, 419, 422

Serralves Foundation Contemporary Art Museum and Park (Porto): 357, 384–385

Seven-petticoat women of Nazaré: 261, 267

Sevilla (Spain): 231; buses, 158, 218, 231

Shopping: clothing sizes, 475; Évora, 246–247; hours, 431; Lisbon, 118–124; Porto, 361–362, 372–373; Tavira, 222; VAT refunds, 436. See also Markets

Sightseeing: best two-week trip, 18–19; general tips, 438–439; maps and navigation tools, 437; must-see destinations, 12; planning tips, 437; reservations, tickets, and passes, 438; worth-see destinations, 14, 16. See also specific sights and destinations

SIM cards: 457

Sintra: 14, 160–180; eating, 178–179; helpful hints, 163; layout of, 162; maps, 161, 164, 172–173; planning tips, 160–161; reservations, 25; sights/activities, 165–177; sleeping, 177; tourist information, 162; transportation, 161–162, 163–166, 179–180

Sintra Moorish Castle: 169–170

Sítio : 260, 265–268; eating, 272; map, 266

Sítio Belvedere: 267

Sítio Museum: 268

Slave Market Museum (Lagos): 211–212

Sleep code: 440

Sleeping: 439–448; air-conditioning, 447; rates and deals, 23–24, 440–441; reservations, 23–24, 25, 442–443; types of accommodations, 441–448. See also Pousadas; Quartos; and specific destinations

Smartphones: 26, 454–457. See also Apps

Soccer: 132, 210, 351–352, 425

Solar do Vinho do Porto (Lisbon): 72, 74, 127

Special events: 471–472

Stock Exchange Palace (Porto): 356, 369, 376–377

Surfing: 203; Nazaré, 264, 268

T

Tagus River: See Rio Tejo

Tavira: 218–231; eating, 229–230; helpful hints, 222; map, 220–221; sights/activities, 223–228; sleeping, 228–229; tourist information, 219; tours, 222–223; transportation, 222, 231

Tavira Castle Garden: 224–225

Tavira Municipal Museum: 224

Tavira Old Market Hall: 227

Tavira Old Town Gate: 223

Tavira Riverside Park: 227

Tavira Tower: 226

Taxes: VAT refunds, 436

Taxis: 461–462; Coimbra, 314; Évora, 236; Lisbon, 39, 156; Porto, 356; Salema, 185, 186; Sintra, 165; Tavira, 222; tipping, 435

Taylor’s (Porto): 382

Tejo River: See Rio Tejo

Teleférico de Gaia (Porto): 353

Telephones: 454–458

Temperatures, average monthly: 476

Temptations of St. Anthony (Bosch): 93

Theft alerts: 27, 430, 434–435, 466; Lisbon, 36; Porto, 351

Time Out Market (Lisbon): 124, 144–145

Time zones: 430–431

Tipping: 435

Tomar: 287–294; map, 290–291

Tomar Knights Templar Castle: 289, 292

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Batalha): 279–280

Torre de Belém (Lisbon): 47, 109–110

Torre de Tavira: 226

Torre dos Clérigos (Porto): 356, 365–366, 373–374

Tour guides: 25, 27; Coimbra, 314; Évora, 237; helpful hints, 263; Lagos, 207; Lisbon, 50–51; Porto, 358

Tourist information: 430. See also specific destinations

Tours: Alentejo region, 236; best two-week trip, 18–19; Douro Valley, 408; Évora, 236–237; Lisbon, 42–51; Porto, 357–358; Rick Steves, 468; Salema, 186

Train travel: 458–460; the Algarve, 183; Cape Sagres, 205; Coimbra, 311, 344–345; Évora, 233, 257; Lagos, 207, 218; Lisbon, 156–158; map, 460; Nazaré, 273; Óbidos, 301, 308; Porto, 350, 397; Salem, 184–185; Sintra, 161–162, 163, 179–180; Tavira, 231; Tomar, 287, 294

Trams, in Lisbon: 38–39; map, 40–41

Trams, in Porto: 353

Tramway Museum (Porto): 383

Transportation: 458–468; budgeting, 23; map, 460; money-saving tips, 23. See also Buses; Car travel; Taxis; Train travel; Tuk-tuks; and specific destinations

Travel advisories: 429

Travel insurance: 25–26, 463

Travel smarts: 27–28

Travel tips: 429–432

Tribunal of the Inquisition (Évora): 244

Trip costs: 23

Tripe: 8, 391, 393, 451

Trolleys, in Lisbon: 38–39, 42–47, 94; map, 40–41; tickets, 36–37

Trolleys, in Porto: 353, 363

Tuk-tuks: Lisbon, 48; Porto, 357–358; safety tips, 36; Sagres, 197; Sintra, 165

25th of April Bridge (Lisbon): 52, 116

U

Uber: 461–462; Lisbon, 39, 156; Porto, 356

University of Coimbra: 321, 323–331; map, 324

University of Évora: 244, 249–250

University of Porto: 362

V

Valado: 273

Vale do Douro: See Douro Valley

Vasco da Gama: 6, 29, 63, 93, 102, 106–107, 110, 167, 196, 200–201, 249, 267, 419, 423; tomb of (Lisbon), 102–103

Vasco da Gama Bridge (Lisbon): 56–57, 112, 113

Vasco da Gama Mall (Lisbon): 111–112, 124

Vasco da Gama Tower (Lisbon): 112

Vasques de Carvalho (Porto): 383

VAT refunds: 436

Vila do Bispo: 202, 231

Vila Nova de Gaia: 349, 367, 370, 378–383; eating, 396–397; map, 379; port-wine lodges, 356, 378–383

Vila Sassetti (Sintra): 170–171

Vintage House Hotel (Pinhão): 413, 415, 416

Virgin of Fátima: 67, 281–283, 285–286

Viriato: 423

Visitor information: 430. See also specific destinations

Viva Viagem (Lisbon): 37

W

Weather: 20, 27, 476

Wine and vineyards: 452–453; Douro Valley, 403–407, 414–415; Évora, 246–247; Lisbon, 63, 119; Porto, 362, 394; Tavira, 222. See also Port wine

Wines of Portugal Tasting Room (Lisbon): 63, 119, 148

Wines of Portugal Tasting Room (Porto): 368, 394

Woolens, shopping for: 80, 122

Y

Yellow Boat (Lisbon): 48

Yellow Bus (Lisbon): 46–47, 48

Z

Zavial Beach: 202

Zurburán, Francisco de: 93