PRACTICALITIES

Travel Tips

Money

BEFORE YOU GO

IN EUROPE

TIPPING

GETTING A VAT REFUND

CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS

Sightseeing

MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS

PLAN AHEAD

RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES

AT SIGHTS

Sleeping

RATES AND DEALS

TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS

Eating

RESTAURANT PRICING

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT

PORTUGUESE BEVERAGES

Staying Connected

USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE

WITHOUT A MOBILE PHONE

MAIL

Transportation

TRAIN VERSUS BUS

TRAINS (COMBOIOS)

Map: Portugal’s Public Transportation

BUSES (AUTOCARROS)

TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES

RENTING A CAR

Map: Driving in Portugal

FLIGHTS

Resources from Rick Steves

This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.

Travel Tips

Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, on the travel pages of the US State Department (www.travel.state.gov) and Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov/travel). The US embassy website for Portugal is another good source of information (see below).

Covid Vaccine/Test Requirements: It’s possible you’ll need to present proof of vaccination against the coronavirus and/or a negative Covid-19 test result to board a plane to Europe or back to the US. Carefully check requirements for each country you’ll visit well before you depart, and again a few days before your trip. See the websites listed above for current requirements.

ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering Portugal and other Schengen Zone countries (quick and easy process). For the latest, check www.etiasvisa.com.

Tourist Information: Portugal’s national tourist office offers practical information, trip-planning ideas, and downloadable brochures on their website (www.visitportugal.com).

In Portugal, a good first stop in a new city is generally the tourist information office (posto de turismo)—abbreviated TI in this book. TIs are in business to help you spend money in their town—which can color their advice—but I still swing by to pick up a city map and get info on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Some TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so you can pick up maps and other info for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip.

Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 from a mobile phone or landline (operators typically speak English). If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.

Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy or consulate (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen items, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.

Embassies and Consulates: US Embassy—dial +351 217 273 300, services by appointment only (Avenida das Forças Armadas, Lisbon, https://pt.usembassy.gov).

Canadian Embassy—dial +351 213 164 600, consular services available Mon-Fri 9:00-12:00 (Avenida da Liberdade 198, third floor, Lisbon, www.canadainternational.gc.ca/portugal).

Avoiding Theft and Scams: Thieves target tourists throughout Portugal, especially in Lisbon and Porto. While hotel rooms are generally safe, thieves snatch purses, pick pockets, and break into cars. Be on guard, especially on the Metro and trolleys, and treat any disturbance around you as a smoke screen for theft. Don’t believe any “police officers” looking for counterfeit bills. When traveling by train, keep your luggage in sight.

Time Zones: Though Portugal and Spain are neighbors, Portugal sets its clock one hour earlier than Spain and most of continental Europe. (This is true even during Daylight Saving Time.) Portugal’s time zone is the same as Great Britain’s: five/eight hours ahead of the East/West coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your mobile phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).

Business Hours: In Portugal, some businesses take a lunch break (usually 12:00-13:30 or 12:30-14:00). Larger shops and museums stay open all day. Banks are generally open Monday through Friday from 8:30 to 15:00. Small shops are often open on Saturday only in the morning and are closed all day Sunday.

Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and appliances (newer hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.

Rip up this book! Turn chapters into mini guidebooks: Break the book’s spine and use a utility knife to slice apart chapters, keeping gummy edges intact. Reinforce the chapter spines with clear wide tape; use a heavy-duty stapler; or make or buy a cheap cover (see the Travel Store at RickSteves.com), swapping out chapters as you travel.

Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (ages 65 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only to European citizens.

Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com and DeepL.com are also handy. The Google Translate app converts spoken English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera.

Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint when traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them). Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Portugal’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed brochures, maps, or other materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, see RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.

Money

Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Europe. I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.

Credit Card: You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big (hotels, advance tickets) and small (little shops, food stands). Some European businesses have gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is the most widely accepted and simplest to use.

Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw a small amount of local cash. Wait until you arrive to get euros (European airports have plenty of ATMs); if you buy euros before your trip, you’ll pay bad stateside exchange rates. You’ll use cash more often in Portugal than in many other European countries. And cash can help you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work, and can be useful to pay for things like tips and local guides.

Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.

Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency (for example, if your debit card gets eaten by the machine).

BEFORE YOU GO

Know your cards. For credit cards, Visa and MasterCard are universal while American Express and Discover are less common. US debit cards with a Visa or MasterCard logo will work in any European ATM.

Go “contactless.” Get comfortable using contactless pay options. Check to see if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines), and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section for details). Both options are widely used in Europe.

Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.

Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.

Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can withdraw daily and ask for a higher daily limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not savings accounts.

Find out about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or MasterCard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new card. Reputable no-fee cards include those from Capital One, as well as Charles Schwab debit cards. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.

IN EUROPE

Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps

Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: These cards have the usual chip and/or magnetic stripe, but with the addition of a contactless symbol. Simply tap your card against a contactless reader to complete a transaction—no PIN or signature is required.

Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. To pay, hold your phone near a contactless reader; you may need to verify the transaction with a face scan, fingerprint scan, or passcode. If you’ve arrived in Europe without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone to work in this way.

Other Card Types: Chip-and-PIN cards have a visible chip embedded in them; rather than swiping, you insert the card into the payment machine, then enter your PIN on a keypad. In Europe, these cards have largely been supplanted by tap-to-pay cards, but you may be asked to use chip-and-PIN for certain purchases. Swipe-and-sign credit cards—with a swipeable magnetic stripe, and a receipt you have to sign—are increasingly rare.

Will My US Card Work? Usually, yes. On rare occasions, at self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks, tollbooths, or fuel pumps), some US cards may not work. Usually a tap-to-pay card does the trick in these situations. Just in case, carry cash as a backup and look for a cashier who can process your payment if your card is rejected. Drivers should be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. (In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card.) When approaching a toll plaza or ferry ticket line, use the “cash” lane.

Using Cash

Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate. In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in Portugal look for the Multibanco signs (marked with a blue-and-white MB logo). When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank.

If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later.

Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Your Cash, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see next).

Dynamic Currency Conversion: When withdrawing cash at an ATM or paying with a credit card, you’ll often be asked whether you want the transaction processed in dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While DCC offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate, and you’ll wind up losing money.

Exchanging Cash: Minimize exchanging money in Europe; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). In a pinch you can find exchange desks at major train stations or airports. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.

Security Tips

Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.

Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.

Avoid using a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.

To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).

Damage Control for Lost Cards

If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. With a mobile phone, call these 24-hour US numbers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), MasterCard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111). From a landline, you can call these US numbers collect by going through a local operator.

You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see RickSteves.com/help for more).

If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.

TIPPING

Tipping in Portugal isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.

Restaurants: At cafés and restaurants, a service charge is included in the price of what you order. If you had good service, it’s customary to leave up to 5 percent—or 10 percent for a splurge place. If paying with a credit card, be prepared to tip separately with cash or coins; credit card receipts often don’t have a tip line. For details on tipping in restaurants, see “Eating,” later.

Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €4.70, pay €5). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to give a little more.

Services: In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.

GETTING A VAT REFUND

Wrapped into the purchase price of your Portuguese souvenirs is a value-added tax (VAT, called IVA or Imposto sobre o Valor Acrescentado in Portuguese) of about 23 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €62 worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)

Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.

At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Europe.

At the Border or Airport: Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds (allow plenty of extra time to deal with this process). At some airports, you’ll have to go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. At other airports, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing. (Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee, but you’re paying for the convenience of receiving your money in cash immediately or as a credit to your card.) Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant.

CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS

You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).

To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).

For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Portugal’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.

MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS

A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Europe, simple maps are generally free at TIs and hotels.

You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device, which provides turn-by-turn directions for walking, driving, and taking public transit. Google Maps, Apple Maps, and CityMaps2Go allow you to download maps for offline use; ideally, download the areas you’ll need in advance. For certain features, you’ll need to be online—either using Wi-Fi or an international data plan.

PLAN AHEAD

Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours in the big cities—Lisbon and Porto—see this book’s “At a Glance” sidebars. Since the Covid-19 pandemic, hours for museums and sights have been unstable. Both before and during your trip, confirm the latest opening days and times with the TI or on a museum or sight’s official website (listed throughout this book).

Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.

Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.

If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.

Study up. To get the most out of the sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.

RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES

Many popular sights in Europe come with long lines—not to get in, but to buy a ticket. Visitors who buy tickets online in advance (or who have a museum pass covering these key sights) can skip the line and waltz right in. Advance tickets are generally timed-entry, meaning you’re guaranteed admission on a certain date and time.

For some sights, buying ahead is required (tickets aren’t sold at the sight and it’s the only way to get in). At other sights, buying ahead is recommended to skip the line and save time. And for many sights, advance tickets are available but unnecessary: At these uncrowded sights you can simply arrive, buy a ticket, and go in.

Don’t confuse the reservation options: available, recommended, and required. Use my advice in this book as a guide. Note any must-see sights that sell out long in advance and be prepared to buy tickets early. If you do your research, you’ll know the smart strategy.

Given how precious your vacation time is, I’d book in advance both where it’s required (as soon as your dates are firm) and where it will save time in a long line (in some cases, you can do this even on the day you plan to visit). In Portugal, this includes Sintra’s Pena Palace, Moorish Castle, and National Palace.

You’ll generally be emailed an eticket with a QR or bar code that you’ll store on your phone to scan at the entrance (if you prefer, you can print it out). At the sight, look for the ticket-holders line rather than the ticket-buying line; you may still have to wait in a security line.

In Lisbon, the LisboaCard, a pass sold at city TIs, covers all public transportation and grants free entry to many museums. It also offers discounts on river cruises, my recommended city tours, many other museums, and sights in Sintra (see here).

AT SIGHTS

Here’s what you can typically expect:

Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.

Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check day packs and coats. (If you’d rather not check your day pack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)

At churches—which often offer interesting art (usually free) and a cool, welcome seat—a modest dress code (no bare shoulders or shorts) is encouraged though rarely enforced.

Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.

Audioguides and Apps: I’ve produced a free, downloadable audio tour for my Lisbon City Walk; look for the in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.

Some sights offer audioguides with recorded descriptions in English. In some cases, you’ll rent a device to carry around (if you bring your own plug-in earbuds, you’ll enjoy better sound). Increasingly, museums and sights instead offer an audioguide app you can download (often free; check websites from home and consider downloading in advance, as not all sights offer free Wi-Fi).

Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).

Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.

Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy and air-conditioned places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.

Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.

Sleeping

Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s “Sleeping” sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to your sightseeing.

My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for Portuguese traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and a fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.

Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in Portugal.

Some people make reservations a few days ahead as they travel. This approach fosters spontaneity, and booking sites make it easy to find available rooms, but—especially during busy times—you run the risk of settling for lesser-value accommodations.

RATES AND DEALS

I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant. City taxes, which can vary from place to place, are generally insignificant (a few dollars per person, per night).

Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking hotel websites and booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself. This increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). And when you book on the hotel’s website, by email, or by phone, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites, giving them wiggle room to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included).

Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show the book upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.

TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS

Hotels

In this book, the price for a double room in a hotel ranges from around $60 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to $300 suites (maximum plumbing and more), with most clustering around $130.

Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in my listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.

As a budget alternative in Portugal, I also list several simple, family-run hotels (listed as a pensão or residencial); they’re easy to find, inexpensive, and, when chosen properly, a fun part of the Portuguese cultural experience.

Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door (addresses such as “26-3” indicate a building at #26, on the third floor). In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.

Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. You may have to climb a flight of stairs to reach the elevator (if so, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up).

Most European countries require hotels to collect your name, nationality, and passport number. At check-in, the receptionist might ask for your passport and may keep it for several hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to give them instead.

If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.

In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV and free Wi-Fi, which can vary in strength and quality. Simpler places rarely have a room phone.

Breakfast and Meals: Breakfast is generally included (sometimes continental, but often buffet).

Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in.

Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.

Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.

In Portugal, street noise can be high. You can request a room com vista (with a view) or tranquilo (quiet), but in most cases, the view comes with street noise. If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor.

To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.

For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Any regulated hotel will have a complaint book (livro de reclamações), which is checked by authorities. A request for this book will generally prompt the hotelier to solve your problem to keep you from writing a complaint. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.

Historic Inns

Portugal has luxurious, government-sponsored historic inns. These pousadas are often renovated castles, palaces, or monasteries, many with great views and stately atmospheres. While full of Old World character, they often are run in a very sterile, bureaucratic way, and can have faded furnishings that are a bit worn for the price range. These are pricey ($250-500 doubles) but can be a good deal for younger people (30 and under) and seniors (55 and over), who often get discounted rates; for details, bonus packages, and family deals, see www.pousadas.pt.

Short-Term Rentals

A short-term rental—whether an apartment, a house, or a room in a private residence—is a popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.

Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.

Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and VRBO let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as Interhomeusa.com and RentaVilla.com can provide a more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive).

Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to public transportation and how well connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-conditioning, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.

Think about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self check-in and minimal contact; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.

Confirming and Paying: Many places require payment in full before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).

Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place for several nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or rental house. Apartment or house rentals can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.

Rooms in Private Homes (Quartos): In touristy resorts—especially beach towns like Nazaré and Salema—you’ll typically find locals who’ve opened up a spare room to make a little money on the side. Usually fairly private and often located in small, apartment-type buildings, a quarto (KWAR-too; also known as an alojamento particular) is less expensive than a hotel ($45-75 for a double without breakfast). In Nazaré and Salema, you can stumble into town virtually any day (except August weekends) and find countless women hanging out on the streets with rooms to rent. Or just ask around town, at any bar. If you have the nerve to travel without reservations, this is an excellent budget deal. Have fun looking at several places, then hem and haw until the price goes down. Your room is likely to be large and homey, with old-time-elegant furnishings (and the bathroom down the hall). Quarto landladies generally speak only a little English, but they’re used to dealing with visitors. Given that the boss changes the sheets, people staying several nights are most desirable; one-night stays sometimes cost extra, and in the busy summer months there could be a minimum-night stay.

Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some are interested in getting to know the travelers who pass through their home.

Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com. To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.

Hostels

A hostel provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for under $30 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Family and private rooms are often available.

Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.

Portugal has plenty of youth hostels, but considering the great bargains on other accommodations, I don’t cover many in this book except for the stylish “design hostels” that are a Lisbon specialty. Big, convivial, and professional, these often have private rooms and appeal even to people who would normally choose a hotel (see the Lisbon chapter).

Eating

For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.

The Portuguese meal schedule is slightly later than in the US. Breakfast (pequeno almoço) is often just coffee and a sweet roll. Lunch (almoço) is served between 12:30 and 14:00, while supper (jantar) is from about 19:30 to 21:30. You can eat well in mom-and-pop restaurants for about €10, especially outside Lisbon. All restaurants are smoke-free.

Appetizers Aren’t Free: Appetizers (olives, bread, butter, pâtés, and a veritable mini buffet of other tasty temptations) brought to your table before you order are not free. This is common in Portugal as a way to curb your hunger while looking at the menu and waiting for your main dish to arrive. If you don’t want them, push them to the side—you won’t be charged if you don’t eat anything. Simple appetizers usually cost about €1 each, so it won’t break the budget—just don’t be surprised at extra charges on your bill. And it’s smart to be aware of this in unscrupulous, tourist-oriented restaurants, which may use overpriced appetizers to pad the bill.

Portions: Many restaurants save their customers money by portioning their dishes for two people. Menus often list prices for entrées in two columns: dose and meia dose. A dose (DOH-zeh) is generally enough to feed two, while a meia dose is a half-portion (plenty for one person). Restaurants have absolutely no problem with diners splitting a single dose.

Paying and Tipping: When you want the bill, say, “A conta, por favor.” Most mom-and-pop restaurateurs will figure the bill in front of you, so everyone agrees on the final amount to be paid.

In nearly all restaurants, service is included—your menu typically will indicate this by noting serviço incluído. Still, if you are pleased with the service, it’s customary to leave up to 5 percent, or 10 percent for top-notch service or in a fancy place. Leave the tip on the table. It’s best to tip in cash, even if you pay with your credit card (there’s generally not a place to include a tip on a credit card slip). There’s no need to tip if you order food at a counter.

RESTAURANT PRICING

I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.

The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a taste of the local cuisine at a reasonable price.

Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion-swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and refined cuisine.

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT

For a quick, cheap snack, drop by a bar or café. Bars offer an enticing selection of savory treats on display, such as codfish cakes (pastéis de bacalhau). Sandwiches (sandes) are everywhere. Cafés also offer snacks and are usually cheaper than bars. Many cafés double as lunch joints, which locals frequent. If you see a menu written on a paper tablecloth and taped in the window, you can be assured of a quick, home-cooked meal. Just don’t expect a fancy presentation (and be willing to share a table with a stranger—don’t worry, it makes for great conversation).

Portuguese cuisine is heavy on fish, meat, olive oil, and spices—with many Mediterranean accents. I’ve described some highlights in the “Bom apetite!” sidebar on here and defined some additional menu items below. Prato do dia is the daily special.

Seafood: Eat fresh seafood as much as you can in Portugal—except on Monday, when the fish isn’t fresh—the fishermen take Sunday off. Bacalhau—codfish that’s dried, salted, and then rehydrated—is a Portuguese staple. (Strangely, the codfish aren’t found in Portugal’s coastal waters but are fished in the North Atlantic.) The Portuguese also adore conservas—canned (“conserved”) fish and other seafood, often marinated with olive oil and spices (such as pepper, oregano, tomatoes, fennel, or red pepper). You’ll see tinned sardines, mackerel, tuna, salmon, and even octopus. These tend to be less salty or pungent than canned fish back home—give it a try. The Portuguese also have a knack for decorating the tins with colorful and creative artwork, making a walk through a conservas shop a feast for the eyes as well. Aficionados say that the best brand for sardines is Briosa, while Santa Catarina (from the Azores) has the best tuna. Some simple eateries sell cans of fish for you to open up at a table with some fresh bread...a satisfying (and very local) light lunch.

Other Dishes: Popular dishes include caldo verde (vegetable soup), alheira (smoked sausage made with bread, game, and no pork), and frango assado (roast chicken). The African-inspired piri-piri sauce—oil infused with hot chilis—is a treat if you like it hot and spicy. Don’t confuse piri-piri with pica pau, a flavorful white-wine sauce with lots of garlic and bay, often served with stewed beef.

Speaking of garlic, Portuguese chefs aren’t afraid of that pungent flavor. They also tend to go heavy on the salt, and many dishes come with a fresh, sweet punch of herbs—especially cilantro, parsley, and bay leaf.

Potatoes and greens are popular side dishes. Portugal also has a variety of hearty and delicious rice-based dishes, including arroz de tomate (like a tomato risotto), arroz de pato (savory rice with roasted duck and chorizo), and the stew-like arroz de mariscos. Carbs never went out of style in Portugal—it’s common to get both potatoes and rice with a meal.

Colonial Influences: The Portuguese have a special affinity for tropical fruits—thanks both to their own warm-weather outposts (Madeira and the Azores) and their former tropical colonies. You’ll see more kiwi, passionfruit, papaya, mango, and guava here than in most of Europe. Fresh-squeezed orange juice (from Algarve-grown fruit) is also very popular...and delicious. Other culinary holdovers from Portugal’s colonial days include spicy piri-piri sauce (described earlier), palm oil, and the powerful rum-like sugarcane firewater from Cape Verde, called simply grogue.

Meat and Seafood

Alheira: Pork-free smoked sausage

Bacalhau: Dried, salted cod that’s rehydrated and prepared in many different ways

Bacalhau à Brás: Salt cod, matchstick potatoes, and black olives scrambled with egg

Carne de porco à Alentejana: Stewed pork covered with clams

Conservas: Canned fish, marinated with olive oil and spices

Frango assado: Roast chicken, commonly served with piri-piri hot sauce

Percebes: Barnacles

Porco preto: Air-cured ham from ibérico pigs

Presunto: Air-cured ham

Sardinhas grelhadas: Fresh sardines, grilled or barbecued

Tripas à modo do Porto: Tripe served Porto-style

Rice, Soups, and Stews

Arroz de mariscos: Rice and mixed seafood stew

Arroz de pato: Duck and chorizo in a rice stew

Caldeirada de peixe: Like cataplana (see below), but cooked in a casserole

Caldo verde: “Green” soup of kale and potato puree

Cataplana: Seafood and potatoes cooked in a copper pot

Feijoada: Pork and bean stew

Sopa alentejana: Garlic soup with a poached egg, cilantro, and bread crumbs

Sopa de mariscos: Shellfish soup

Sopa de peixe: Fish soup

Sandwiches and Snacks

Apertivos: Appetizers

Batatas fritas: Potato chips

Bifana: Pork sandwich

Francesinha (“little French girl”): A sandwich of pork, sausage, and cheese, grilled and topped with more melted cheese and a spicy sauce

Pastéis de bacalhau: Codfish fritters

Petiscos: Portuguese-style tapas—cured meats, cheeses, olives

Prego: Steak sandwich

Sandes de leitão: Suckling-pig sandwich

Tosta mista: Grilled ham and cheese sandwich

Desserts

Arroz doce: Rice pudding with cinnamon

Barriga de freiras (“nuns’ belly”): Convent sweet made with egg yolks and sugar

Charcada: Eggy-almond pudding-like dessert

Papo de anjo (“angel’s double chin”): Convent sweet made from beaten egg yolks that are baked, then boiled in a sugar syrup

Pastel de nata: Custard tart

Pastel de Santa Clara: Almond and marmalade pastry

Pastel de Tentúgal: Sweet, eggy filling wrapped with puff pastry and dusted with powdered sugar

Pudim: Flan

Queque: Muffin

Salame de chocolate: Dark chocolate and broken cookies rolled into a salami-shaped log that’s sliced for serving

PORTUGUESE BEVERAGES

Wine, Beer, and Spirits

Despite its small size, Portugal is among the world’s top wine producers—bottling more than 150 million gallons in a good year. And Portuguese wines are cheap, decent, and distinctively fruity.

Vinho verde (VEEN-yoo VAIR-day) is light, refreshing, almost always white, and can be slightly fizzy. This “green wine” is actually golden in color, but “green” (young) in age—picked, made, and drunk within a year. Alvarinho grapes, from the northern Minho region, are low-sugar and high-acid. After the initial fermentation, winemakers introduce a second fermentation, whose byproduct is carbon dioxide—the light fizz. The wines are somewhat bitter alone but great with meals, especially seafood. The best are from the Monção, Amarante, and Aveleda regions, but the one you’ll see on every menu is the perfectly acceptable Casal Garcia. If you like white vinho verde, you might enjoy the harder-to-find red version. It’s dark in color, like a cabernet, but still fizzy and light in flavor, like a rosé—a unique combination.

The Dão region also produces fine red wines, mostly from the Mondego Valley between Coimbra, Guarda, and Viseu. They should sit for a year or two in the bottle before drinking.

The Alentejo region (look for bottles labeled “Borba,” a major producer) is known for high-quality reds that tend to be full-bodied and fruit-forward; the Alentejo is increasingly producing good whites as well. And the Douro Valley—best known as the place where grapes for port are grown—has recently earned an equally strong reputation for its table wines (look for vinho do Douro). If you find yourself drowning in choices, simply try a glass of the house wine (vinho da casa).

If you like port wine, what better place to sample it than its birthplace, Port-ugal? (For a crash course on port wine, see here.) Reserva on the label means it’s the best-quality port (and the most expensive). All bottles of port should have a selo de garantia (a seal of guarantee) issued by the Port Wine Institute.

Madeira, made from grapes grown in volcanic soil in the Madeira Islands, is fortified and blended (as is port), and usually served as a sweet dessert wine. The English and George Washington both liked it (“Have some Madeira, m’dear”), though today’s version is drier and less syrupy. A Madeira called Sercial is served chilled (like sherry) with almonds.

The favorite Portuguese spirit is ginjinha, a liqueur made with the sour cherry-like ginja berry. You’ll see shops selling shots on the street (particularly in Óbidos, where it’s traditionally sold in tiny, delicate, edible chocolate cups). To take a bottle home, look for the widely available brands Espinheira or Sem Rival; for something a notch better, look for Ginja MSR.

Beer (cerveja) is also popular—for a small draft beer, ask for uma imperial. You’ll see Super Bock in the north, and Sagres in the south—the Bud and Miller of Portugal. Each also produces versions that are dark (preta), nonalcoholic (sem álcool), or both.

Here are some common drinking terms:

Aguardente: Firewater distilled from grape seeds, stems, and skins, with a kick like a mule

Cerveja: Beer

Ginjinha: Sour-cherry liqueur, served at special bars in Lisbon and Óbidos

Grogue: Strong spirits from Cape Verde, derived from sugarcane

Imperial: Small draft beer

Vinho da casa: House wine

Vinho branco: White wine

Vinho tinto: Red wine

Vinho verde: “Green” wine (young, white wine)

Water, Coffee, and Other Nonalcoholic Drinks

Freshly squeezed orange juice (sumo de laranja), mineral water (água mineral), and soft drinks are widely available. When ordering water, fizzy or not, you will be asked, “Fresco o natural?” Fresco is chilled, and natural is room temperature.

Coffee lovers enjoy a café, the very aromatic shot of espresso so popular in Portugal. In Lisbon this is called a bica. For an espresso with a little milk (like a caffé macchiato), ask for a café pingado.

Here are some useful beverage phrases:

Abatanado: Black coffee (but be aware that every café in Portugal has a different take on this; asking for a café Americano might work better to meet your black-coffee expectations)

Água da torneira: Tap water

Água com/sem gás: Water with/without bubbles

Água mineral: Mineral water

Bica: Espresso (Lisbon)

Café: Espresso

Café pingado: Espresso with a little milk, similar to a caffé macchiato

Chá: Tea

Fresco: Chilled

Galão: Coffee drink similar to a latte, served in a tall glass and often sweetened

Leite: Milk

Meia de leite: Coffee with warm milk

Natural: Room temperature

Sumo: Juice

Sumo de laranja: Orange juice

Staying Connected

One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer? More easily and affordably than you might think.

The simplest solution is to bring your own device—phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it much as you would at home, following the money-saving tips below, such as getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.

USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE

Here are some budget tips and options.

Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers data and text, but not voice calls).

Hurdling the Language Barrier

Many Portuguese people—especially those in the tourist trade and in big cities—speak English. And, in general, the Portuguese speak more English than their Spanish neighbors, since English is required in school. (Their American movies are also subtitled, while the Spanish get their Hollywood flicks dubbed.) But locals will visibly brighten when you know and use some key Portuguese phrases (see “Portuguese Survival Phrases” on here). You’ll find that doors open more quickly and with more smiles when you can speak a few words of the language.

If you speak intermediate Spanish, you’ll be able to stumble through newspapers and read road signs, even if you can’t pronounce the words (spoken Portuguese sounds like a mix of a Slavic language and Spanish). If you take a Portuguese language course before your trip here, make sure your professor is Portuguese, not Brazilian—the accents are very distinct.

If you’re having trouble communicating in Portuguese, try English, French, and Spanish, in that order (because some locals give Spanish speakers the cold shoulder).

For more tips on hurdling the language barrier, consider the Rick Steves Portuguese Phrase Book (available at RickSteves.com).

Before your trip, research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.

Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.

Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. When you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) just long enough for the task at hand.

Even with an international data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype or FaceTime, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.

Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off, and change your email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).

Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, WhatsApp, FaceTime, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. Just log on to a Wi-Fi network, then connect with friends, family members, or local contacts who use the same service.

Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls, need a local phone number, or your provider’s international data rates are expensive, consider buying a SIM card in Europe to replace the one in your (unlocked) US phone or tablet. SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters and some newsstands (you may need to show your passport), and vending machines. If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop.

There are generally no roaming charges when using a European SIM card in other EU countries, but confirm when you buy.

WITHOUT A MOBILE PHONE

It’s less convenient but possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can make calls from your hotel and check email or get online using public computers.

Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls. You can use a prepaid international phone card (cartão telefónico com código pessoal, usually available at newsstands, tobacco shops, and train stations) to call out from your hotel.

Some hotels have public computers in their lobbies for guests to use; otherwise you can find them at public libraries (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). On a European keyboard, use the “Alt Gr” key to the right of the space bar to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. Portuguese keyboards are a little different from ours; to type an @ symbol, press the “Alt Gr” key and 2 at the same time. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy and paste it from a web page.

MAIL

You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and then “Know Before You Go.” The Portuguese postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (DHL.com).

Transportation

Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers, and those who want to leave the driving to others. Short-hop flights within Europe can creatively connect the dots. Be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city; with trains and buses you’re at the mercy of a timetable; flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport and leaves a larger carbon footprint.

If your itinerary mixes cities and countryside, my advice is to connect cities by train (or bus) and to explore rural areas by rental car. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.

TRAIN VERSUS BUS

If your trip will cover more of Portugal than just Lisbon, you may need to take a long-distance train or bus, rent a car, or fly. Portugal straggles behind the rest of Europe in train service but offers excellent bus transportation. Off the main Lisbon-Porto-Coimbra train lines, buses are usually a better bet. In cases where buses and trains serve the same destination, the bus is often more efficient, offering more frequent connections and sometimes a more central station. If schedules are similar, use the maps in this book to determine which station is closest to your hotel.

The best public transportation option is to mix bus and train travel. Always verify bus and train schedules before your departure. To ask for a schedule at an information window, say, “Horário para (fill in names of cities), faz favor.” (The TI will sometimes have schedules available.) To study train schedules in advance, see www.cp.pt for all domestic and Spain/France routes. Another good resource for train schedules throughout Europe is German Rail’s timetable (www.bahn.com).

Departures and arrivals are partidas and chegadas, respectively. These key Portuguese “fine print” words may also come in handy in your travels: Both as and aos mean “on”; de means “from,” as in “from this date to that date”; só means “only,” as in “only effective on...”; não means “not”; and feriado means “holiday.” On schedules, exceptions are noted, as in this typical qualifier: “Não se efectua aos sábados, domingos, e feriados oficiais” (“Not effective on Saturdays, Sundays, and official holidays”).

TRAINS (COMBOIOS)

The fastest Alfa Pendular and Intercidades trains serve the main Lisbon-Porto line with an occasional extension to Faro or Braga; these trains require seat reservations. Regional and Interregional “milk-run” trains serve most other routes, making lots of stops. On Portuguese train schedules, diario means “daily” and mudança de comboio means “change trains.”

Buying Tickets: Portuguese train tickets are a bargain compared to neighboring countries. Plan on about €20 for a typical second-class ticket on an InterCity train from Lisbon to Coimbra. If you’re pinching pennies, you can often cut your ticket price in half by buying tickets eight or more days in advance (exchangeable before departure but not refundable). Seniors over age 65 and kids ages 4-12 pay half the cost of regular fares; youths ages 13-25 save 25 percent.

Rail Passes: Because you’ll likely use a mix of trains and buses on your trip, a Eurail Portugal Pass doesn’t make much sense. Most travelers find that flights or buses (not covered by rail passes) are better options for any international route. For information on rail passes, visit RickSteves.com/rail.

International Trains: Only two trains per day cross into Spain (between Porto and Vigo, where you can connect to Santiago de Compostela). Service on the “Lusitânia” line (overnight between Lisbon and Madrid) and “Surexpreso” line (overnight between Lisbon, San Sebastián in Spain, and the French border) has been suspended since 2020. Promises by the national Spanish train service (Renfe) and the equivalent Portuguese company (CP) to modernize and reinstate service have failed to materialize.

BUSES (AUTOCARROS)

Portugal has several bus companies, sometimes running buses to the same destinations and using the same transfer points. If you have to transfer, make sure to look for a bus with the same name/logo as the company you bought the ticket from. The largest national company is Rede Expressos (covers buses both north and south of Lisbon, www.rede-expressos.pt [URL inactive]). Vamus (www.vamusalgarve.pt) covers some areas south of Lisbon, including the Algarve. Central Portugal is covered by all major bus companies, as well as Rodoviária do Tejo (www.rodotejo.pt). You can go online to plan bus trips between cities—and often to purchase tickets—but always confirm the schedule in person, especially for service between smaller towns.

Bus schedules in Portugal are clearly posted at each major station. Directo is “direct.” Slower ruta buses make many stops en route. Posted schedules list most, but not all, destinations. If your intended destination isn’t listed, check at the ticket/information window for the most complete schedule information. For long trips, your ticket might include an assigned seat. Many Portuguese are adamant about sticking to seat assignments, even if most of the bus is empty.

If the bus station is not central, ask at the TI about travel agencies near your hotel that sell bus tickets. Don’t leave a bus station to explore a city without checking your departure options and buying a ticket in advance if necessary (and possible). Bus service on holidays, Saturdays, and especially Sundays can be dismal.

You can (and most likely will be required to) stow your luggage under the bus. For longer rides, give some thought to which side of the bus will get the most sun, and sit on the opposite side. Even if a bus is air-conditioned and has curtains, direct sunlight can still heat up your seat. Long-distance (and most short-distance) buses are nonsmoking. Your ride will likely come with a soundtrack: recorded music (usually American pop), a radio, or sometimes videos. If you prefer silence, bring earplugs.

Drivers and station personnel rarely speak English. Buses usually lack WCs but stop every two hours or so for a 15- to 20-minute break. Ask the driver, “How many minutes here?” (“Quántos minutos aqui?”). Bus stations have WCs (carry tissue), and cafés offering quick and cheap food.

TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES

Most European taxis are reliable and cheap. In many cities, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. Drivers generally respond kindly to the request, “How much is it to (destination), more or less?” (“Quanto é para Belém, mais ou menos?”) Rounding the fare up to the nearest large coin (maximum of 10 percent) is adequate for a tip. Keep a map in your hand so the cabbie knows (or thinks) you know where you’re going. If you like ride-booking services such as Uber, their apps usually work in Europe just like they do in the US: Request a car on your mobile phone (connected to Wi-Fi or data), and the fare is automatically charged to your credit card.

RENTING A CAR

It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (AutoEurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper AutoEurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.

Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”

Rental Costs and Considerations

If you book well in advance, expect to pay roughly $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. To save money on fuel, request a diesel car.

Manual vs. Automatic: Almost all rental cars in Europe are manual by default—and cars with a stick shift are generally cheaper. If you need an automatic, reserve one specifically. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.

Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car rental websites.

Choosing Pick-up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.

Crossing Borders in a Rental Car: Be aware that international trips—say, picking up in Porto and dropping off in Madrid—while efficient, can be expensive if the rental company assesses a drop-off fee for crossing a border.

Always tell your car-rental company which countries you’ll be entering. Some companies levy extra insurance fees for trips taken in certain countries with certain cars (such as BMWs, Mercedes, and convertibles). Double-check with your rental agent that you have all the documentation you need before you drive off.

Via Verde Toll Sensor: To save some hassle paying tolls, rent a “Via Verde” automated toll sensor along with your car (figure about €2/day); at the end of your rental, the car agency will charge your credit card for the actual tolls you incur. Be sure the sensor is activated before you leave the rental lot. For more on tolls, see here.

Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.

Car Insurance Options

When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (free, but more complicated), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.

Basic CDW costs $15-30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).

If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your card company about how it works.

If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical option. For example, Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.

For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.

Navigation Options

If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.

Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—also have offline route directions, but you’ll need mobile data access for current traffic. For more on using a mapping app without burning through data, see “Using Your Phone in Europe,” earlier.

GPS Devices: If you want a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car (about $20/day, or sometimes included—ask). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Make sure you know how to use the device—and that the language is set to English—before you drive off.

Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at a local gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.

Driving

Drivers in Portugal encounter sparse traffic and very good roads connecting larger cities.

Road Rules: Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times, and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Seat belts are required by law in Portugal. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the “International Travel” section of the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn About Your Destination” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”). You may be stopped for a routine check by the police (be sure you have your rental paperwork close at hand).

Fuel: Gas and diesel prices are government controlled and the same everywhere. Gas is around $8.50 a gallon, and diesel is about $5. Be careful when filling up: The words are similar for unleaded gas (gasolina) and for diesel (gasóleo). Some pumps are color coded: Unleaded pumps are green and labeled “E,” while diesel pumps (often yellow or black) are labeled “B.” Note that your US credit and debit cards may not work at self-service gas pumps, as well as toll bridges and automated parking garages, even if they have a chip. Be sure to know your credit card’s PIN, but just in case, also carry sufficient cash.

Navigation: On freeways, navigate by direction (norte = north, oeste = west, sul = south, este = east). Also, since road numbers can be confusing and inconsistent, navigate by city names. You can pick up a Michelin map in the US or buy one of the good, inexpensive maps available throughout Portugal.

Parking: Parking areas in cities generally have a large white “P” on a blue background. Don’t assume it’s free—check around for meters or ticketing machines. Signs that say livre (free) mean a space is available—not free of charge.

Theft: Choose parking places carefully. Keep your valuables in your hotel room or, if you’re between destinations, covered in your trunk. Leave nothing worth stealing in the car, especially overnight. If your car’s a hatchback, take the trunk cover off at night so thieves can look in without breaking in. Try to make your car look locally owned by hiding the “tourist-owned” rental-company decals and putting a Portuguese newspaper in your front or back window. Ask your hotelier for advice on parking. In cities, you can park safely but expensively in guarded lots.

Tolls: Almost all Portuguese superhighways are subject to tolls (about €1 per 13 kilometers). There are a variety of ways to pay; for a rundown, see www.portugaltolls.com. Here are the basics:

First off, if renting your car in Portugal, the simplest (and recommended) solution is to get a Via Verde automated tolling device from your rental-car company (described in “Renting a Car,” earlier). With the Via Verde device, you can pass through tolling plazas using the lanes marked with a green-and-white V and the words Reservada a Aderentes.

If you’d rather pay tolls as you go, be prepared for two different types of tolls: ticket-based or electronic.

The majority of expressways are manually tolled: Simply take a ticket as you enter, and pay the toll as you leave (lanes are marked for credit cards or cash).

Other roads—such as the A-22 along the Algarve—are electronically tolled using cameras, which identify cars by their license plate as they zip past. Each time you drive under a toll camera, a sign tells you the fee (expect to pay about €10 to cross the entire Algarve coast, which covers the width of southern Portugal).

This electronic toll system offers three payment options, outlined below. To figure out the right option or to estimate your total tolls, start at www.portugaltolls.com (or if picking up your car in Portugal, ask for advice from the rental agency). The entire process is slick and easy.

A TOLLCard comes in prepaid amounts (€5, €10, €20, or €40) and is valid for one year. To use it, buy the card online (www.tollcard.pt) or from the postal service (Correios or CTT), then activate it by sending a text message from your mobile phone. You can check your balance online, plus you’ll receive a text message when it runs out (balance is refundable).

A Virtual Card is a three-day, €20 prepaid card that includes unlimited travel for those driving a car registered outside Portugal. It’s available online, at post offices, or at the Porto and Faro airports.

With an EASYToll card, your credit card will be charged each time you pass a toll point. You can buy this card online and at certain payment points along the border with Spain. Simply pop your credit card into the machine, which associates your card with your license number (and will charge a small fee for each use). This covers your car for all toll road use for a month (or until you cancel the account). When leaving the country, be sure to close your account: Go to www.portugaltolls.com, and enter the “identifier number” (located on your EASYToll card) and license plate number. If you don’t cancel the account, the next driver can zip around the country on your dime.

FLIGHTS

To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: Kayak is the top site for flights to and within Europe, easy-to-use Google Flights has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.

Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see my hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at RickSteves.com/hub-airports.

Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet or Ryanair. For flights within Portugal, the country’s national carrier is TAP Portugal (FlyTap.com). For flights between Lisbon and other cities in Europe, also try Iberia (Iberia.com), and Vueling Airlines (Vueling.com). Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and a larger carbon footprint than a train or bus.

Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).

Resources from Rick Steves

Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com

My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; my travel blog; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards, where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/forums).

Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).

Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).

Rick Steves’ Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More

Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year about 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to get our tour catalog, visit RickSteves.com/tours or call us at +1 425 608 4217.

Books: This book is just one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket Guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.

TV Shows and Travel Talks: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year (watch full episodes at my website for free). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (classroom.ricksteves.com). And to raise your travel I.Q., check out the video versions of our popular classes (covering most European countries as well as travel skills, packing smart, cruising, tech for travelers, European art, and travel as a political act—RickSteves.com/travel-talks).

Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced dozens of free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, see here.

Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.

Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a weekly selection of video clips from my public television show, my audio tours of Europe’s top sights, and live recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/watch-read-listen/audio/podcasts).