PRACTICALITIES

Travel Tips

Money

BEFORE YOU GO

IN EUROPE

TIPPING

GETTING A VAT REFUND

CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS

Sightseeing

MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS

PLAN AHEAD

RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES

AT SIGHTS

Sleeping

RATES AND DEALS

TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS

Eating

RESTAURANT PRICING

BREAKFAST

LUNCH AND DINNER

TRADITIONAL GERMAN FARE

BEVERAGES

Staying Connected

USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE

WITHOUT A MOBILE PHONE

MAIL

Transportation

TRAINS

Map: Germany’s Public Transportation

LONG-DISTANCE BUSES

TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES

RENTING A CAR

Map: Driving in Germany

FLIGHTS

Resources from Rick Steves

This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.

Travel Tips

Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, on the travel pages of the US State Department (www.travel.state.gov) and Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov/travel). The US embassy website for Germany is another good source of information (see below).

Covid Vaccine/Test Requirements: It’s possible you’ll need to present proof of vaccination against the coronavirus and/or a negative Covid-19 test result to board a plane to Europe or back to the US. Carefully check requirements for each country you’ll visit well before you depart, and again a few days before your trip. See the websites listed above for current requirements.

ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering Germany and other Schengen Zone countries (quick and easy process). For the latest, check www.etiasvisa.com.

Tourist Information: Germany’s national tourist office in the US is a wealth of information. Before your trip, scan their website (www.germany.travel) for information on festivals, castles, and biking, as well as regional and thematic itineraries.

In Germany, a good first stop is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). Throughout Germany, you’ll find TIs are usually well organized and have English-speaking staff. But be aware that TIs are in business to help you spend money in their town—which can color their advice. A few TIs, notably in Berlin, have been privatized; this means they have become sales agents for big tours and hotels. I still swing by the local TI to pick up a city map and get info on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife.

Some TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so you can pick up maps and other info for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip.

Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 from a mobile phone or landline (operators typically speak English). If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services. The US Embassy & Consulates website for Germany has a list of English-speaking doctors (+49 30 83050, https://de.usembassy.gov, search for “Medical Assistance”).

Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards,” later). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen items, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.

Embassies: US Embassy in Berlin—passport replacement by appointment only Wed-Thu, sign up online (Clayallee 170, +49 30 83050, http://de.usembassy.gov). Canadian Embassy in Berlin—consular services open Mon-Fri 9:00-12:00, closed Sat-Sun (Leipziger Platz 17, +49 30 2031 2470, www.germany.gc.ca).

Time Zones: Germany, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).

Business Hours: In Germany, most shops are open from about 9:00 until 18:00-20:00 on weekdays; smaller stores generally close earlier on Saturdays, and nearly all stores are shut up tight on Sundays and public holidays, so you’ll have to do your shopping the day before. The main exceptions are gas stations and stores in train stations.

In small towns, shops may take a midafternoon break (roughly between 12:00 and 14:00 or 15:00). Banks are generally open Monday to Friday from 9:00 to 15:00 (or later, up to 19:00). Many museums and sights are closed on Monday. Catholic regions, including Bavaria, shut down during religious holidays (see the appendix).

Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and appliances (newer hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.

Rip up this book! Turn chapters into mini guidebooks: Break the book’s spine and use a utility knife to slice apart chapters, keeping gummy edges intact. Reinforce the chapter spines with clear wide tape; use a heavy-duty stapler; or make or buy a cheap cover (see the Travel Store at RickSteves.com), swapping out chapters as you travel.

Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 65 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only to European citizens.

Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com and DeepL.com are also handy. The Google Translate app converts spoken or typed English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera.

Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint when traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them). Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed brochures, maps, or other materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, see RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.

Money

Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Europe. I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.

Credit Card: You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big (hotels, advance tickets) and small (little shops, food stands). Some European businesses have gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is the most widely accepted and simplest to use.

Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw a small amount of local cash. Wait until you arrive to get euros (European airports have plenty of ATMs); if you buy euros before your trip, you’ll pay bad stateside exchange rates. While most transactions are by card these days, some German beer gardens and other vendors remain cash-only. Cash can also help you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work, and can be useful to pay for things like tips and local guides.

Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.

Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency (for example, if your debit card gets eaten by the machine).

BEFORE YOU GO

Know your cards. For credit cards, Visa and MasterCard are universal while American Express and Discover are less common. US debit cards with a Visa or MasterCard logo will work in any European ATM.

Go “contactless.” Get comfortable using contactless pay options. Check to see if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines), and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section for details). Both options are widely used in Europe and are more secure than a physical credit card: Instead of recording your credit card number, a one-time encrypted “token” enables the purchase and expires shortly afterward.

Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.

Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.

Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can withdraw daily and ask for a higher daily limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not savings accounts.

Find out about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or MasterCard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new card. Reputable no-fee cards include those from Capital One, as well as Charles Schwab debit cards. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.

IN EUROPE

Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps

Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: These cards have the usual chip and/or magnetic stripe, but with the addition of a contactless symbol. Simply tap your card against a contactless reader to complete a transaction—no PIN or signature is required. This is by far the easiest way to pay and has become the standard in much of Europe.

Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. To pay, hold your phone near a contactless reader; you may need to verify the transaction with a face scan, fingerprint scan, or passcode. If you’ve arrived in Europe without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone to work in this way.

Other Card Types: Chip-and-PIN cards have a visible chip embedded in them; rather than swiping, you insert the card into the payment machine, then enter your PIN on a keypad. In Europe, these cards have largely been supplanted by tap-to-pay cards, but you may be asked to use chip-and-PIN for certain purchases. Swipe-and-sign credit cards—with a swipeable magnetic stripe, and a receipt you have to sign—are increasingly rare.

Will My US Card Work? Usually, yes. On rare occasions, at self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks, tollbooths, or fuel pumps), some US cards may not work. Usually a tap-to-pay card does the trick in these situations. Just in case, carry cash as a backup and look for a cashier who can process your payment if your card is rejected. Drivers should be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. (In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card). When approaching a toll plaza or ferry ticket line, use the “cash” lane.

Using Cash

Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate. In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in Germany ask for a Geldautomat. When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank.

If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later.

Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Your Cash, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see next).

Dynamic Currency Conversion: When withdrawing cash at an ATM or paying with a credit card, you’ll often be asked whether you want the transaction processed in dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While DCC offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate, and you’ll wind up losing money.

Exchanging Cash: Minimize exchanging money in Europe; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). In a pinch you can find exchange desks at major train stations or airports. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.

Security Tips

Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.

Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.

Avoid using a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.

To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).

Damage Control for Lost Cards

If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. With a mobile phone, call these 24-hour US numbers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), MasterCard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111). From a landline, you can call these US numbers collect by going through a local operator.

You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see RickSteves.com/help for more).

If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.

TIPPING

Tipping in Germany isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. However, tips are appreciated and expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.

Restaurants: You don’t need to tip if you order your food at a counter. At German restaurants that have a wait staff, it’s common to tip by rounding up (about 10 percent) after a good meal. If paying with a credit card, be prepared to tip separately with cash or coins; credit card receipts don’t often have a tip line. For details on tipping in restaurants, see here.

Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if your fare is €4.70, pay €5). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.

Services: In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.

GETTING A VAT REFUND

Wrapped into the purchase price of your German souvenirs is a value-added tax (VAT) of 19 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €25 worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)

Getting your refund is usually straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.

At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Europe.

At the Border or Airport: Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds (allow plenty of extra time to deal with this process). At some airports, you’ll have to go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. At other airports, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing. (Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee, but you’re paying for the convenience of receiving your money in cash immediately or as a credit to your card.) Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant.

CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS

You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).

To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).

For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Germany’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.

MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS

A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Europe, simple maps are generally free at TIs and hotels.

You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device, which provides turn-by-turn directions for walking, driving, and taking public transit. Google Maps, Apple Maps, and CityMaps2Go allow you to download maps for offline use; ideally, download the areas you’ll need before your trip. For certain features, you’ll need to be online—either using Wi-Fi or an international data plan.

PLAN AHEAD

Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see this book’s “At a Glance” sidebars for major cities (Munich, Salzburg, Dresden, Berlin, and Hamburg). Since the Covid-19 pandemic, hours for museums and sights have been unstable. Both before and during your trip, confirm the latest opening days and times with the TI or on a museum or sight’s official website (listed throughout this book).

Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.

Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.

If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.

Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.

RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES

Many popular sights in Europe come with long lines—not to get in, but to buy a ticket. Visitors who buy tickets online in advance (or who have a museum pass covering these key sights) can skip the line and waltz right in. Advance tickets are generally timed-entry, meaning you’re guaranteed admission on a certain date and time.

For some sights, buying ahead is required (tickets aren’t sold at the sight and it’s the only way to get in). At other sights, buying ahead is recommended to skip the line and save time. And for many sights, advance tickets are available but unnecessary: At these uncrowded sights you can simply arrive, buy a ticket, and go in.

Don’t confuse the reservation options: available, recommended, and required. Use my advice in this book as a guide. Note any must-see sights that sell out long in advance and be prepared to buy tickets early. If you do your research, you’ll know the smart strategy.

Given how precious your vacation time is, I’d book in advance both where it’s required (as soon as your dates are firm) and where it will save time in a long line (in some cases, you can do this even on the day you plan to visit).

You’ll generally be emailed an eticket with a QR or bar code that you’ll store on your phone to scan at the entrance (if you prefer, you can print it out). At the sight, look for the ticket-holders line rather than the ticket-buying line; you may still have to wait in a security line.

Sightseeing passes can be money savers and often let you skip the generally long ticket-buying lines at sights. In Berlin, for example, the Museum Pass Berlin is great for serious museumgoers, gaining you admission to more than 30 museums over a three-day period.

AT SIGHTS

Here’s what you can typically expect:

Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.

Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Most museums in Germany require you to check any bag bigger than a purse, and sometimes even purses. Museum lockers are free, but be prepared to pay a €1-2 deposit.

Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.

Audioguides and Apps: I’ve produced free, downloadable audio tours for my Munich City Walk, Salzburg Town Walk, Rothenburg Town Walk, Best of the Rhine Tour, and Berlin City Walk; look for the in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.

Some sights offer audioguides with useful recorded descriptions in English. Most of Berlin’s top museums are run by the government and include excellent audioguides with admission (you’ll need to leave an ID as a deposit). In some cases, you’ll rent a device to carry around (if you bring your own plug-in earbuds, you’ll enjoy better sound). Increasingly, museums and sights instead offer an app you can download with their audioguide (often free; check websites from home and consider downloading in advance as not all sights offer free Wi-Fi).

Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).

Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.

Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy and air-conditioned places to rejuvenate during a long visit). In Berlin, state-run museums offer free loaner stools, inviting you to camp out and really ponder your favorite work of art. The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.

Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.

Sleeping

Good-value accommodations in Germany are generally easy to find, comfortable, and often include a hearty breakfast (typically an all-you-can-eat buffet). Choose from hotels; smaller, cheaper hotels and bed-and-breakfasts (called Gasthof, Gasthaus, or Pension); rooms in private homes (Privatzimmer); self-catering apartments rented by the week (Ferienwohnung); and hostels (Jugendherberge).

Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to your sightseeing.

My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for German traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.

Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times, such as Easter weekend, the first weekend in May, Ascension weekend later in May, or Germany Unity Day on October 3. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in Germany.

Some people make reservations a few days ahead as they travel. This approach fosters spontaneity, and booking sites make it easy to find available rooms, but—especially during busy times—you run the risk of settling for lesser-value accommodations.

RATES AND DEALS

I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but these relative price categories remain constant.

City taxes, which can vary from place to place, are generally insignificant (a few dollars per person, per night; in Berlin, it’s 5 percent of the room rate). This may be included in the room price or may appear as an extra charge on your bill. In resort towns such as Baden-Baden and Staufen, visitors pay a small spa tax (per person and per night) that’s added to their bill.

Rates depend on the season and the day of the week, but peak times vary from one town to the next. Low season in Rothenburg is January-March, in Füssen it’s October-May, and in Nürnberg it’s July and August. While weekends are cheaper in Frankfurt and Nürnberg, weekdays are cheaper in Trier, Dresden, and Füssen. Munich hotels generally keep the same prices all week.

Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking hotel websites and booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself. This increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). And when you book on the hotel’s website, by email, or by phone, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites, giving them wiggle room to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included).

Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show this book upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.

Most hostels and some hotels and B&Bs offer half-board (Halb-pension), which means that dinner is included in the room price. This is often a good deal and gets you a hassle-free, value-priced three-course meal, but limits your choices. Many hotels (including the Ibis chain) give you the option of skipping breakfast and paying less. Although German hotel breakfasts are usually excellent, you can buy breakfast items easily and cheaply at a bakery or supermarket—the savings add up, especially for families.

TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS

Hotels

In this book, the price for a double room in a hotel ranges from €50 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to €400-plus (maximum plumbing and the works). In small towns, such as Bacharach or Rothenburg, you can find a good double with a private bath for around €80; in more expensive cities like Munich or Baden-Baden, you’ll usually pay €100 or more. Breakfast is often included in the quoted rate (except in Berlin), but you can usually add or remove a breakfast option when booking (sometimes continental, but often buffet; see “Eating,” later in this chapter).

Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.

While I favor smaller, family-run hotels, some chain hotels can be a good value; the Europe-wide Ibis/Mercure chain has many options (www.accorhotels.com). I’m also impressed with the homegrown, Hamburg-based German chain called Motel One, which specializes in affordable style and has branches in Berlin, Munich, Nürnberg, Hamburg, Frankfurt, Cologne, Leipzig, Dresden, and other cities (www.motel-one.com). Because hotel chains tend to have multiple branches scattered across a city, be sure you’re booking the location you want.

Because the train system in Germany is convenient and popular, both locals and foreigners have discovered that staying near the station saves hauling luggage. The concept of the train-station hotel, which went out of favor during the 20th century, is making a big comeback in Germany. Munich, Füssen, Baden-Baden, Frankfurt, Würzburg, Cologne, Nürnberg, Leipzig, and Dresden are among the destinations in this book that have good-value lodgings within steps of the train station.

Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.

Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. You may have to climb a flight of stairs to reach the elevator (if so, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up).

Most European countries require hotels to collect your name, nationality, and passport number. At check-in, the receptionist might ask for your passport and may keep it for several hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to give them instead.

If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.

In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV and free Wi-Fi, which can vary in strength and quality. Simpler places rarely have a room phone.

In Germany, beds usually come with a bottom sheet and a thick comforter. A double bed comes with two comforters—rather than one bigger one. It also frequently has two separate mattresses and sometimes two separate (but adjacent) frames—even if the bed is intended for couples. (A “real” double bed with a single mattress is called a Französisches Bett—a French bed.) Rooms with truly separate twin beds are less common in German hotels. When Americans request separate beds, German hotels sometimes give them normal doubles with complete sincerity—reasoning that the mattresses, though adjacent, are separate.

Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in.

Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.

Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.

If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.

For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.

Guesthouses

Guesthouses—the German equivalent to B&Bs—are small, warm, family-run accommodations. Known as Pensionen, Gasthäuser, or Gasthöfe in German, they are very common in areas popular with travelers (such as Germany’s Rhine, Romantic Road region, and southern Bavaria, and Austria’s Tirol and Salzburg). Compared to hotels, guesthouses give you double the cultural intimacy for half the price. While you may lose some of the conveniences of a hotel—such as in-room phones, frequent bed-sheet changes, and the ease of paying with a credit card—I happily make the trade-off for the lower rates and personal touches. If you have a reasonable but limited budget, skip hotels and look for smaller, family-run places.

A typical guesthouse has less than a dozen rooms and serves up a hearty breakfast. The smallest establishments are private homes with rooms (Zimmer) rented out to travelers. In general, you can expect rooms in guesthouses to be clean, comfortable, and simple, though usually homey. Germans, especially in the south, are enthusiastic builders who like showing off their carpentry and decorating skills.

Rooms can run the gamut. Some are suite-like, with multiple rooms, separate entrances, and private baths. Others are spare bedrooms in family homes, with no in-room plumbing (but you have access to the bathroom and shower in the home).

Germans depend heavily on expensive imported fuel and are very aware of their energy use. You’ll endear yourself to your hosts if you turn off lights when you leave and avoid excessively long showers.

Finding and booking a guesthouse is no different than reserving a hotel. Even most smaller places are listed on hotel-booking websites—but a direct booking is especially appreciated at mom-and-pop places, and will likely net you a better price. Private rooms are also available through Airbnb-type services (described next). If you haven’t booked ahead, look for signs that say Zimmer frei, which means rooms are available; Zimmer belegt means no vacancy. TIs often have a list of guesthouses.

Short-Term Rentals

A short-term rental—whether an apartment, a house, or a room in a private residence—is a popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.

Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.

Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and VRBO let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com and RentaVilla.com can provide a more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive).

Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to public transportation and how well connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-conditioning, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.

Think about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self check-in and minimal contact; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.

Confirming and Paying: Many places require payment in full before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).

Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place for several nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or rental house (shorter stays aren’t worth the hassle of arranging key pickup, buying groceries, etc.). Apartment or house rentals can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.

In rural areas, you can find reasonably priced vacation rentals (Ferienwohnungen), ideal for families and small groups who want to explore a region. This kind of arrangement is very popular with German vacationers. You usually get a suite of two or three rooms with a kitchen. Owners discourage short stays and usually require a minimum rental period (3-5 days), and sometimes a deposit.

Rooms in Private Homes: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some are interested in getting to know the travelers who pass through their home.

Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com. To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.

Hostels

A hostel (Jugendherberge) provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for about €35 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Family and private rooms are often available.

Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.

Eating

Germanic cuisine is heavy, hearty, meaty, tasty, and—by European standards—inexpensive. Each region has its specialties, which are often good values. Order house specials whenever possible. Look beyond the schnitzel and wurst and seek out lighter, innovative menu options. German chefs—especially in big cities—have picked up many international influences, using previously unknown spices and ingredients to jazz up their offerings. Be adventurous.

For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.

RESTAURANT PRICING

I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.

The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a taste of the local cuisine at a reasonable price.

Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion-swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and refined cuisine.

BREAKFAST

Many German hotels and pensions include breakfast in the room price and pride themselves on laying out an attractive buffet spread. (However, some hotels, especially in cities, let you choose whether to pay extra for breakfast.) Even if you’re not a big breakfast eater, take advantage of the buffet to fortify yourself for a day of sightseeing.

Expect sliced bread, rolls, pastries, cereal, yogurt (both plain and with fruit), eggs, cold cuts, cheese, and fruit. You’ll always find coffee, tea, and some sort of Saft (juice). Along with orange and apple, blended and fortified “multivitamin” juice is popular. This sweet, smooth blend of various fruits is less acidic than a citrus juice. A bottle of mineral water is standing by to mix with any juice to turn it into a Schorle (spritzer).

For breakfast, most Germans like bread or rolls topped with cheese or cold cuts, or a bowl of Müsli (an oaty cereal like granola, but less sweet), sometimes mixed with corn flakes. Instead of pouring milk over cereal, Germans often begin with a dollop of yogurt (or Quark—sweet curds that resemble yogurt), then sprinkle the cereal on top. If it’s not sweet enough, drizzle on some Honig (honey). Bircher Müsli is a healthy mix of oats, nuts, yogurt, and fruit. To make a German-style open-faced sandwich for breakfast, layer toppings such as Schinken (ham), Streichwurst (meat spread, often Leberwurst—liver pate), and Käse (cheese) on a slice of bread or a roll.

If a buffet has eggs, they’re most likely boiled (gekochte Eier). To eat one as the Germans do, set the egg in its stand, gently crack the shell around its perimeter and remove the top half, salt it, and eat it as if from a tiny bowl. Buffets in larger hotels might have Rühreier (scrambled eggs) or Spiegeleier (fried eggs—literally “mirror eggs”—typically sunny-side up).

In some hotels, a small garbage can is set on the table for you to dispose of trash as you eat.

LUNCH AND DINNER

German mealtimes align well with American stomachs; lunch is generally served from 12:00-14:00 and dinner from 18:00-21:00.

Traditional restaurants go by many names. For basic, stick-to-the-ribs meals—and plenty of beer—look for a beer hall (Brauhaus) or beer garden (Biergarten). Gasthaus, Gasthof, Gaststätte, and Gaststube all loosely describe an informal, inn-type eatery. A Kneipe is a bar, and a Keller (or Ratskeller) is a restaurant or tavern located in a cellar. A Weinstube serves wine and usually traditional food as well.

Many Germans are health-conscious and quite passionate about choosing organic (Bio) products: Bio fruits and vegetables, and even Bio bread, ice cream, and schnitzel. You’ll often see footnotes on restaurant menus marking which dishes have artificial ingredients. However, despite these healthy ways, many starchy, high-fat, high-calorie traditional foods remain staples of the national diet. (For a rundown of common German foods, see “Traditional German Fare,” later.)

Most eateries have menus tacked onto their front doors, with an English menu inside. If you see a Stammtisch sign hanging over a table at a restaurant or pub, it means that it’s reserved for regulars—don’t sit here unless invited. Once you’re seated, take your time—only a rude waiter will rush you. Good service is relaxed (slow to an American).

To wish others “Happy eating!” offer a cheery “Guten Appetit!” When you want the bill, say, “Die Rechnung, bitte” (dee REHKH-noong, BIT-teh).

Tipping: You only need to tip at restaurants that have table service. If you order your food at a counter, don’t tip. At restaurants with wait staff, it’s common to tip after a good meal by rounding up (roughly 10 percent). Rather than leaving coins behind on the table (considered slightly rude), Germans usually pay directly: When the server comes by with the bill, simply hand over paper money, stating the total you’d like to pay. For example, if paying for a €10 meal with a €20 bill, while handing your money to the server, say “Eleven, please” (or “Elf, bitte” if you’ve got your German numbers down). The server will keep a €1 tip and give you €9 in change.

Budget Tips

It’s easy to eat a meal for €10 or less here. At lunchtime, locals grab a sandwich (around €3) and perhaps a pastry (€1.50-2) from one of the ubiquitous bakeries, which often have tables to sit at (but not table service). If there aren’t any sandwiches on display at the bakery counter, ask to have one made.

Department-store cafeterias (usually on the top floor with a view) are common and handy, and they bridge the language barrier by letting you see your options. A Schnellimbiss—or simply Imbiss—is a small fast-food takeaway stand where you can get a bratwurst or other grilled sausage (usually less than €2, including a roll); for a rundown of common sausages, see “Best of the Wurst,” later.

All schnitzeled out? International restaurants provide a welcome break from Germanic fare. Italian, Turkish, and Asian food are generally a good value. A freshly baked pizza, a Turkish sandwich, or a rice or noodle dish will cost you €4-7, and can be packed up to enjoy on a park bench or in your room.

Stands and shops selling Turkish-style döner kebab—gyro-like, pita-wrapped rotisserie meat—are common (€4 at any time of day). Turkish cafés abound, selling not only the basic döner kebab, but also several variations, plus falafel (chickpea croquettes), “Turkish pizzas,” and much more.

Some restaurants offer inexpensive €7-10 weekday hot-lunch specials that aren’t listed on the regular menu (look for the Tageskarte or Tagesangebot, or just ask—sometimes available at dinner, too). For smaller portions, order from the kleine Hunger (small hunger) section of the menu. Simple dishes of wurst with sauerkraut and bread tend to run €7-9.

TRADITIONAL GERMAN FARE

Here are some typical dishes you’ll see at German eateries.

Specialties

Traditional German dishes tend to be meat-heavy. The classic dish is sausage—hundreds of varieties of bratwurst, Weisswurst, and other types of wurst are served with sauerkraut as an excuse for a vegetable (for a list of common types of wurst, see the “Best of the Wurst” section, later).

Many traditional eateries serve some kind of meat on the bone, such as pork knuckle (called Schweinshaxe or Eisbein on menus) or shoulder, which has been boiled or roasted until tender. It goes down well with a big mug of beer. The fish and venison here are also good.

Another ubiquitous meat dish is schnitzel (a meat cutlet that’s been pounded flat, breaded, and fried). Though traditionally made with veal, pork schnitzel is cheaper and more common.

You’ll often see stuck on the beginning and end of menu items a form of the word Braten (which can mean “roasted” or “grilled” or “fried”)—as in Bratkartoffeln (roasted potatoes), Schweinebraten (roasted pork), or Bratwurst (grilled sausage).

Here are a few other specialties—both regional and nationwide—to look for:

Aal Grün: Boiled eel served with Spreewaldsauce (parsley, dill, and cream sauce)

Bratkartoffeln: Fried potatoes

Dampfnudeln: Steamed bread roll with various toppings (also available sweet)

Eisbein (or Hachse, Haxe, Schweinshaxe): Pork knuckle, a.k.a. ham hock

Flammkuchen (or Dünnele): German version of white pizza, on a thin, yeastless dough; the classic version is topped with bacon and onions

Frikadellen (also called Klopse; in Berlin, Buletten; and in Bavaria, Fleischpfanzerl): Giant pan-fried meatball, sometimes flattened like a hamburger

Geschnetzeltes: Diced meat (usually chicken or veal) in a rich, creamy sauce, often with mushrooms

Kassler (or Kasseler): Salted, slightly smoked pork

Kohlrouladen: Cabbage rolls stuffed with minced meat

Königsberger Klopse (or Sossklopse): Meatball with capers and potatoes in a white sauce (a staple of eastern Germany)

Kümmelbraten: Crispy roast pork with caraway

Labskaus: Mushy mix of salted meat, potatoes, often beets, and sometimes topped with herring, pickles, or a fried egg

Leber Berliner Art: Pan-fried veal liver served with sautéed apple rings and onions

Maultaschen (“mouth pockets”): Large ravioli with various fillings, such as veal, cheese, and spinach

Mett (or Hackepeter): Raw, minced pork spread, eaten on bread

Ratsherrentopf: Stew of roasted meat with potatoes

Rollmops: Marinated pickled herring fillets wrapped around a filling of pickled cucumber or onion. A popular hangover cure.

Rostbrätel: Marinated and grilled pork neck

Rouladen (or Rinderrouladen): Strip of beef rolled up with bacon, onion, and pickles, then braised

Sauerbraten: “Sour”-marinated and roasted cut of beef (sometimes pork), typically served with red cabbage, potato dumplings, and gravy

Saure Zipfel: Bratwurst cooked in broth with vinegar and onions

Schäufele: Oven-roasted pork shoulder with gravy

Schlachtplatte (or Schlachtschüssel): “Butcher’s plate”—usually blood sausage, Leberwurst, and other meat over hot sauerkraut

Schnitzel Holstein: Schnitzel topped with a fried egg, capers, croutons, and smoked fish

Schweinebraten (or Schweinsbraten): Roasted pork with gravy

Senfeier: Hard-boiled eggs in mustard sauce served with potatoes (classic eastern German dish)

Spargel: Big, white or green asparagus in season in May and June

Speckpfannkuchen: Large, savory crêpe with bacon

Stolzer Heinrich: Grilled sausage in beer sauce (Berlin)

Stulle (or Butterbrot): Simple open-faced sandwich with butter and one topping

Best of the Wurst

Sausage (wurst) is a fast, tasty staple of the Germanic diet. Most restaurants offer it (often as the cheapest thing on the menu), but it’s more commonly eaten at takeout fast-food stands (called Würstchenbude in Germany or Würstelstand in Austria). Options go far beyond the hometown hot dog. Most are pork-based. Generally, the darker the weenie, the spicier it is.

Sausages can be boiled or grilled. The generic term Bratwurst (or Rostbratwurst) simply means “sausage for grilling or frying.” Brühwurst means boiled. Kochwurst describes sausage made of precooked ingredients, then lightly steamed. While some types of wurst can be found all over, others are unique to a particular area (as noted here).

When surveying your options at a sidewalk sausage stand or butcher (Metzgerei), these terms may help:

Blutwurst (or Blunzen): Made with congealed blood. Variations include Schwarzwurst, Rotwurst, and Beutelwurst.

Bockwurst: Medium-thick pork-and-veal sausage with a mild, grassy flavor and a toothsome, smoky casing

Bosna: Spicy sausage with onions and sometimes curry (Austrian)

Cervelat: Smoky, mild, chewy sausage that’s butterflied at each end before grilling (mostly Swiss)

Currywurst: Grilled pork sausage with curry-flavored ketchup, often chopped into small pieces. It’s served mit or ohne Darm (with or without skin; with skin tastes smokier)

Debreziner: Long, lightly smoked sausage flavored with paprika

Frankfurter: A skinny, pink, boiled sausage—the ancestor of our hot dog (also called Wienerwurst, Wienerwürstchen, or simply Wiener)

Jagdwurst: Baloney-like “hunter’s sausage”—smoked pork with garlic and mustard

Käsekrainer: Boiled, with melted cheese inside (Austrian)

Knackwurst (or Knockwurst): Short, stubby, garlicky, beef or pork sausage with a casing that “cracks” (knackt) when you bite into it

Krakauer: Type of Polish sausage (kiełbasa)

Landjäger: Skinny, spicy, air-dried (almost withered and sometimes flattened, not round) salami. Ahle Wurst is similar.

Leberkäse: Finely ground, mildly flavored pork meat baked into a loaf shape. A Leberkäsesemmel is a thick slice off the loaf served sandwich-like in a split roll.

Leberwurst: Usually made from pig or calf livers and customarily served as a spread on open-face sandwiches, often with mustard or pickled cucumber

Mettwurst: Cured and smoked pork sausage that ranges from fine to coarse in texture

Milzwurst: Made of pig spleen (Milzstückchen)

Nürnberger: Short and spicy grilled pork sausage from Nürnberg (also available throughout Bavaria), usually eaten three or six (or more) at a time, often lined up in a bun (Drei im Weggla means “three in bun”)

Saumagen: “Sow’s stomach” stuffed with meat, vegetables, and spices

Teewurst: Air-dried, often smoked pork sausage similar to prosciutto, traditionally spread on bread and eaten at teatime (hence the name). It can also be grilled.

Thüringer: Long, skinny, peppery, and wedged into a much shorter roll. Thüringer Rotwurst is a blood-sausage variation.

Weisswurst: White sausage from Munich, boiled and speckled green with parsley; made formerly from veal, though now often pork. Peel off the casing before you eat it. Traditionally served in the morning with sweet mustard and a pretzel, but now eaten at any time of day (and all over Bavaria).

Accompaniments: Sauces and sides include Senf (mustard; ask for süss—sweet; or scharf—spicy), ketchup, curry-ketchup, or Currysauce (a tasty curry-infused ketchup), Kraut (sauerkraut), and sometimes horseradish (called Meerrettich in the north, Kren in the south and Austria). Grüne Sosse, a green sauce made of sour cream blended with herbs, is a Frankfurt specialty.

At sausage stands, wurst usually comes with a roll (Semmel—not your typical hot-dog bun). The sausage might be inside the roll, or it may come on a plate with the roll to the side. You might be given the choice of a slice of bread (Brot), a pretzel (Brezel), or in restaurants, potato salad.

Starches

Besides bread (Brot) and potatoes (Kartoffeln; boiled, fried, or grilled), other typical starches include:

Kartoffelsalat: Potato salad

Knödel (Klösse in the north): Large dumplings, made from potatoes but also from wheat, sourdough, semolina, or breadcrumbs, sometimes with liver or spinach added

Pommes: French fries

Schupfnudeln: Dense, stubby, diamond-shaped potato noodles

Spaetzle: Little noodles made from egg dough scraped through a wide-holed sieve; often served with melted cheese and fried onions as a standalone meal (Käsespätzle)

Salads

Germans make excellent salads; for a meal-sized one, order a Salatteller. Besides grüner Salat (mostly lettuce), you’ll likely come across these options:

Bauernsalat: Greek salad, sometimes with sausage

Bohnensalat: Bean salad

Fleischsalat: Chopped cold cuts mixed with pickles and mayonnaise

Gemischter Salat (or Bunter Salat): A mixed salad of lettuce, fresh and (often) pickled veggies, and a tasty dressing

Gurkensalat: Cucumber salad—usually just cukes in vinegar

Krautsalat: Cabbage salad, similar to coleslaw

Nudelsalat: Pasta salad

Ochsenmaulsalat: “Ox mouth salad” with vinegar, onion, and herbs

Oliviersalat: Russian-style salad—potatoes, eggs, vegetables, and mayonnaise

Wurstsalat: Chopped sausage in onion and vinegar

Snacks

Pretzels (Brezeln), either plain or buttered, make for an inexpensive snack. The brown crust comes from dunking them in water boiled with baking soda or lye.

Brotzeit (“bread time”) is the all-purpose word for a light between-meals snack that’s served cold. Brotzeit involves cold cuts, cheeses, breads, and other cold snacks, such as salads and some sausages. Other snack items include:

Kartoffelkäse: “Potato cheese” spread made of mashed potatoes, onion, and sour cream (but no cheese)

Matjesfilet: Raw herring in yogurt

Obatzda: Pungent, orange Bavarian cheese spread with paprika and onions

Schmalzbrot: Bread smeared with lard

Schnittlauchbrot: Bread with cream cheese and diced chives

Sweets

Make sure to visit a German bakery (Bäckerei) or pastry shop (Konditorei) to browse the selection of fresh pastries (Feingebäck) and cakes (Kuchen). You’ll see pastries in all kinds of shapes: Schnecken (spiral “snails”), strudel (filled pastry cut into slices), croissants (sometimes called Gipfel or Kipferl, “peak”), and Taschen (“pockets”). Fillings include jam (Marmelade or Konfitüre), apple (Apfel), cherry (Kirsche), raisins (Rosinen), nut (Nuss), almond (Mandel), poppy seeds (Mohn), or cheese curds (Quark, usually sweetened). Don’t mistake Mohn (which is black) for cinnamon (Zimt).

Here are some other sweets you might see:

Amerikaner: A big, round spongy cookie with a thick layer of glaze frosting on top

Berliner: A jelly-filled doughnut (also called Krapfen in Bavaria, or Berliner Pfannkuchen in Berlin).

Berliner Luft: An airy dessert made of cream, eggs, and gelatin, and served with raspberry sauce

Nussecke: Triangular “nut corner,” with a hazelnut layer over a cookie base, with sides dipped in chocolate

Rohrnudel: Roll-like sweet dumpling with raisins

Schnecken: “Snail”-shaped pastry roll with raisins and nuts

Gummi Bears from the German candy company Haribo are everywhere and taste better here close to the source. Ice-cream stores abound (often run by Italian immigrants). While you can always get a cone to go (ask for eine Kugel, a scoop—literally “ball”), many Germans sit down to enjoy their ice cream, ordering fancy sundaes in big glass bowls.

BEVERAGES

Water, Juice, and Soft Drinks

At restaurants, waiters aren’t exactly eager to bring you Leitungswasser (tap water), preferring that you buy Mineralwasser (mit/ohne Gas—with/without carbonation). Half-liter mineral-water bottles are available everywhere for about €1. (I refill my water bottle with tap water.)

Popular soft drinks include Apfelschorle (half apple juice, half sparkling water) and Spezi (cola and orange soda). Menus list drink sizes by the tenth of a liter, or deciliter (dl): 0.2 liters is a small glass, and 0.4 or 0.5 is a larger one. Buy juice at a grocery store in cheap liter boxes, then drink some and store the extra in your water bottle.

At stores, most bottled water and soft drinks require a deposit (Pfand; usually €0.15 or €0.25—listed in small print on the shelf’s price label), which is refunded if you return the bottle for recycling. You can generally return bottles to any supermarket, provided the bottle is a type they sell. Larger supermarkets have vending machine-like bottle-return stations (marked Leergutrückgabe or Leergutannahme) that issue a coupon after you insert your bottles (redeem when you pay for your groceries). If you don’t want to bother getting your deposit back but do care about recycling, set the bottle on top of or right next to any trash can, whether on the street or in your hotel room. Chances are someone will collect it for the extra cash.

Beer

The average German drinks 25 gallons of beer a year and has a tremendous variety to choose from. Flaschenbier is bottled, and vom Fass is on tap. A typical bottle size is 33 centiliters (cl; about 12 ounces), and beer from the tap comes in 30 cl or 50 cl pours (10 or 17 ounces). When ordering beer in Bavaria, the standard order is eine Mass (a whole liter, or about a quart); for something smaller, ask for eine Halbe (a half-liter, not always available). For tips on visiting a Biergarten, see here.

Broadly speaking, most German beers fall into four main categories:

Helles Bier: Closest to American-style beer, this is the generic name for pale lager. Light-colored (but not “lite” as in low-calorie), a helles Bier is similar to a Pilsner, but with more malt. Helles Bier is usually served either in a straight glass (Stange, meaning “rod,” which its shape resembles) or a mug. Unfiltered lager (like cask ale) is Kellerbier or Zwickelbier.

Dunkles Bier: This is a general term for dark beer. Munich-style dunkles is sweet and malty, while farther north it’s drier and hoppier. Variations include Schwarzbier (a “black” lager with a chocolaty flavor), Rauchbier (with a “smoky” flavor, from Bamberg), and Weihnachsbier (or Festbier—a seasonal Christmas beer). Dunkles Bier, like helles Bier, is typically served in a straight glass or mug.

Weissbier or Weizenbier: “White” or “wheat” beer (better known in North America as Hefeweizen) is a yeasty, highly caloric beer. It is poured slowly to build a frothy head in a tall, rounded-top glass and served with a lemon wedge. Unfiltered Weissbier, especially common in the south, is cloudy (and usually called Hefeweizen). Kristallweizen is a clear, filtered, yeast-free wheat beer. Roggenbier is darker colored and made with rye.

Pilsner (a.k.a. Pilsener or simply Pils): This is a barley-based, bottom-fermented, flavorful, hoppy, light-colored beer. Particularly common in the north, a Pilsner is usually served in a tall, slender, tapered, and sometimes stemmed glass. If it takes a while for the beer to arrive, it’s because they’re waiting for the head to die down.

Regional Specialties and Variations: Kölsch is Cologne’s mild brew, served in trays of small, straight glasses. Berliner Weisse is a fizzy, slightly sour brew, often sweetened with a shot of syrup. The same approach helps sweeten Leipziger Gose, a very sour wheat beer. And Bavaria (Munich especially) has a wide array of special beers. Most famous are Bockbier, a high-alcohol, high-calorie, hoppy, bittersweet amber traditionally consumed during Lent (when monks were fasting and needed liquid nourishment); and Märzenbier, a light, malty, and highly alcoholic lager brewed in March (März) to be ready for Oktoberfest.

Other Beer Drinks: Radler (literally “bicyclist”—thought of as refreshing and not too intoxicating for a biker on a hot day) is half lager and half lemon soda. Wheat beer and lemon soda is Russ (or Russ’n). Cola-beer mixes are also common: Diesel (a.k.a. Schmutziges or Krefelder) is cola and lager, and Colaweizen is cola and wheat beer. The closest thing to our “lite” beer is leichtes Bier—a low-calorie, low-alcohol wheat beer.

Nonalcoholic Beer: While virtually all nonalcoholic brews in the US are watery, bitter lagers, Germany produces some excellent alcohol-free white/wheat beers (Weisses), which have a somewhat sweeter flavor—very smooth drinking on a hot day. Teetotalers, or anyone who wants a refreshing beer at lunch without being tipsy all afternoon, can look for “alkoholfreies Bier.” There’s also the drink called Malztrunk (or Malzbier)—the dark, sweet, malted beverage (resembling dark beer) that children quaff before they start drinking the real thing.

Wine

Though famous for its beer, Germany also has excellent wine. The best-known white wines are from the Rhine and Mosel, and there are some good reds (usually from the south), including Dornfelder (velvety, often oaky, sometimes sweet) and Spätburgunder (or Blauburgunder; German for “pinot noir”).

Wein is commonly sold by the deciliter, with prices listed per 1 dl (sometimes written as 0.1 L on menus; 1 dl is about 3.5 ounces). You can order by the glass simply by asking for ein Glas, or to clarify that you don’t want much, eine Dezi (one deciliter). For a mini-pitcher of wine, ask for ein Viertel (quarter-liter, about two glasses’ worth). For a half-liter pitcher (about four glasses), request ein Halber. For white wine, ask for Weisswein; red wine is Rotwein. Order your wine lieblich (sweet), halbtrocken (medium), or trocken (dry). A Weinschorle is a spritzer of white wine pepped up with a little sparkling water.

Here are some of the white wines you may see:

Eiswein: Ultra-sweet dessert white made from frozen shriveled grapes

Gewürztraminer: Aromatic, intense, and “spicy”

Grauburgunder: German for “pinot gris”—a soft, full-bodied white

Hurdling the Language Barrier

German—like English, Dutch, Swedish, and Norwegian—is a Germanic language, making it easier on most American ears than Romance languages (such as Italian and French). These tips will help you pronounce German words: The letter w is always pronounced as “v” (e.g., the word for “wonderful” is wunderbar, pronounced VOON-der-bar). The vowel combinations ie and ei are pronounced like the name of the second letter—so ie sounds like a long e (as in hier and Bier, the German words for “here” and “beer”), while ei sounds like a long i (as in nein and Stein, the German words for “no” and “stone”). The vowel combination au is pronounced “ow” (as in Frau). The vowel combinations eu and äu are pronounced “oy” (as in neu, Deutsch, and Bräu, the words for “new,” “German,” and “brew”). To pronounce ö and ü, purse your lips when you say the vowel; the other vowel with an umlaut, ä, is pronounced the same as e in “men.” (In written German, these can be depicted as the vowel followed by an e—oe, ue, and ae, respectively.) The letter Eszett (ß) represents ss. Written German capitalizes all nouns.

Though most young or well-educated Germans—especially those in the tourist trade and in big cities—speak at least some English, you’ll get more smiles if you learn and use German pleasantries. Study the German survival phrases in the appendix. Give it your best shot. The locals will appreciate your efforts.

For more tips on hurdling the language barrier, consider the Rick Steves German Phrase Book (available at RickSteves.com).

Liebfraumilch: Semisweet “beloved maiden’s milk” blending Riesling with Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau

Müller-Thurgau: Light and flowery, best when young, smooth, and semisweet

Riesling: Fruity, fragrant, elegant

Silvaner (or Grüner Silvaner): Acidic, fruity white from Franconia, comes in jug-shaped bottle

Many hotels serve the inexpensive Sekt, or German champagne, at breakfast. Also keep an eye out for Apfelwein (“apple wine”—hard cider, especially popular in Frankfurt). In winter, Glühwein (hot mulled wine) is popular.

Staying Connected

One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer? More easily and affordably than you might think.

The simplest solution is to bring your own device—phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it much as you would at home, following the money-saving tips below, such as getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.

USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE

Here are some budget tips and options.

Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers data and text, but not voice calls).

Before your trip, research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.

Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most online tasks for Wi-Fi. Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.

Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. When you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) just long enough for the task at hand.

Even with an international data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype or FaceTime, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.

Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off, and change your email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).

Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, WhatsApp, FaceTime, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. Just log on to a Wi-Fi network, then connect with friends, family members, or local contacts who use the same service.

Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls, need a local phone number, or your provider’s international data rates are expensive, consider buying a SIM card in Europe to replace the one in your (unlocked) US phone or tablet. SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters and some newsstands (you may need to show your passport), and vending machines. If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop. There are generally no roaming charges when using a European SIM card in other EU countries, but confirm when you buy.

WITHOUT A MOBILE PHONE

It’s less convenient but possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can make calls from your hotel and check email or get online using public computers.

Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls. You can use a prepaid international phone card (usually available at newsstands, tobacco shops, and train stations) to call out from your hotel.

Some hotels have public computers in their lobbies for guests to use; otherwise you may find them at public libraries (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). On a European keyboard, use the “Alt Gr” key to the right of the space bar to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy and paste it from a web page.

MAIL

You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and search for “Know Before You Go.” The German postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (DHL.com).

Transportation

Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers and those who want to leave the driving to others. Short-hop flights within Europe can creatively connect the dots. Be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city; with trains and buses you’re at the mercy of a timetable; flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport and leaves a larger carbon footprint.

If your itinerary mixes cities and countryside, my advice is to connect cities by train (or bus) and to explore rural areas by rental car. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.

TRAINS

German trains—most operated by Deutsche Bahn (DB, Bahn.com), Germany’s national railway—are speedy, comfortable, and nonsmoking. They cover cities and small towns well, but a few out-of-the-way places (such as Bavaria’s Wieskirche) are only reachable by bus. Though German trains are fairly punctual, very tight connections can be a gamble.

Once the obvious choice for long-distance travel within Germany, DB trains now face competition from private trains and buses (described later). Green FlixTrains (www.flixtrain.com) run between big cities in (mostly) northern Germany, while Westbahn (https://westbahn.at) runs trains from Munich to Salzburg and Vienna. Their tickets and schedules are independent from the DB system. Flix Trains don’t accept rail passes but Eurail passes are valid on Westbahn.

If you have a rail pass, you can hop on any DB train without much forethought (though for a small fee, you can reserve a seat on a fast train, especially recommended for holiday weekends and in summer). Without a rail pass, you can save a lot of money by understanding the difference between fast trains and cheaper “regional” trains. The following sections relate only to DB trains.

Types of Trains

The three levels of DB trains differ in price, speed, and comfort. ICE trains (white with red trim and streamlined noses) are the fastest, zipping from city to city in air-conditioned comfort, and costing proportionately more. Midlevel IC and EC trains are also white with red trim, but look older than the ICEs. Regional trains (mostly red and labeled RB, RE, IRE, or S on schedules) are slowest but cost much less. Milk-run S and RB trains stop at every station.

If you have a rail pass, take the fastest train available; rail-pass holders don’t pay a supplement for the fast ICE trains. If you’re buying point-to-point tickets, taking a slower train can save a lot of money. You also save with day-pass deals valid only on slower trains.

Schedules

Schedules vary by season, weekday, and weekend. Verify train times listed in this book at Bahn.com. This website also includes public transport in cities (buses, trams, and subways). The handy DB Navigator app is also a useful tool for schedules.

You can print out a step-by-step itinerary at bahn.com (click on “Print View” and “Details”) or by using the trackside machines marked Fahrkarten (usually silver, red, and blue). The touch-screen display gives you an English option; choose “Timetable Information,” indicate your point of departure and destination, and then hit “Print” for a personalized schedule, including transfers and track numbers. At staffed train stations, attendants will print out a step-by-step itinerary for you, free of charge.

If you’re changing trains en route and have a tight connection, note the numbers of the platforms (Bahnsteig or Gleis) where you will arrive and depart (listed on itineraries). This will save you precious time hunting for your connecting train.

To reach Germany’s train information number, dial +49 30 311 682904 and ask for an English speaker.

Rail Passes

Deutsche Bahn’s German Rail Pass can be a great value, often saving money while allowing you to hop on trains at your convenience (most daytime routes in Germany, including fast ICE trains, do not require seat reservations). Rail passes are an even better deal if you’re under 28 (you qualify for a youth pass) or traveling with a companion (you save with the “twin” rate). If you plan to use a pass to cover a few longer trips, extra days are cheap to add at the time of purchase (about $20-25 per person). But for shorter hops only, a rail pass probably isn’t worth it, especially if you get discounts on point-to-point tickets and day passes (explained later).

Eurail now markets a Eurail Germany Pass following the same price structure as the original German Rail Pass, but with a few differences, such as night train rules and international travel bonuses. If you’re traveling beyond Germany (and beyond the international train coverage of the German Rail Pass), consider the Eurail Global Pass, covering most of Europe. If you buy separate passes for neighboring countries, note that you’ll use a travel day on each when crossing the border.

Your rail pass covers certain extras, including travel on city S-Bahn systems (except in Berlin, where it’s only good on S-Bahn lines between major train stations), German buses marked “Deutsche Bahn” or “DB” (run by the train company), and international express buses operated by Deutsche Bahn (covered by either a German Rail Pass or a pass for both countries of travel). Rail passes also get you a 20-percent discount on K-D Line boats on the Rhine and Mosel Rivers and the Romantic Road bus. Flexipass holders should note that fully covered (“free”) trips start the use of a travel day, while discounted trips do not.

Because Salzburg, Austria, is so close to the German border, traveling to or from the city on the main line from Munich counts as traveling within Germany, as far as your rail pass is concerned (Salzburg is the official border station on that line).

For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail-pass options for your train trip, visit RickSteves.com/rail.

Point-to-Point Tickets

Ticket fares are shown in the “Rail Pass or Point-to-Point Tickets?” sidebar and, for some journeys, at Bahn.com and the DB Navigator app (though not for most trains outside of Germany). Deutsche Bahn can charge a wide variety of fares for the same journey, depending on the type of train, whether changes are permitted, the time of day, how far ahead you purchase the ticket, and other considerations. The Bahn.com website and the DB Navigator app may ask you to choose between several types of fares as you book. Understand your options to get the best deal.

Kids: Up to four kids ages 6-14 travel free with anyone 15 or older, but the ticket needs to list the number of children (unless purchased from a regional-train ticket machine). Kids under age 6 don’t need tickets.

First Class vs. Second Class: First-class tickets usually cost 50 percent more than second-class tickets. While first-class cars are a bit more spacious and quieter than second class, the main advantage of a first-class ticket is the lower chance that the cars will fill up. In Germany, seat assignments are automatically included with first-class tickets for faster trains, but they’re optional for rail pass holders. Riding in second class gets you there at the same time, and with the same scenery. As second-class seating is still comfortable and quiet, most of my readers find the extra cost of first class isn’t worth it. Germans tell me they never ride in first class unless someone else is paying for it.

Rail Pass or Point-to-Point Tickets?

Will you be better off buying a rail pass or point-to-point tickets? It pays to know your options and choose what’s best for your itinerary.

Rail Passes

A German Rail Pass lets you travel by train in Germany for three to fifteen days (consecutively or not) within a one-month period. Discounted “Twin” rates are offered for two people traveling together. Germany is also covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass.

Discounted rates are offered for youths (ages 12-27). Up to two kids (ages 4-11) can travel free with each adult-rate pass (including the German Twin pass, but not with Eurail senior rates for ages 60 and up). All passes offer a choice of first or second class for all ages.

While most rail passes are delivered electronically, it’s smart to get your pass sorted before leaving home. The German Rail Pass is also sold at main train stations and airports in Germany. For more on rail passes, including current prices and purchasing details, visit RickSteves.com/rail.

Point-to-Point Tickets

If you’re taking just a couple of train rides, buying individual point-to-point tickets may save you money over a pass. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.

Map shows approximate costs, in US dollars, for one-way, second-class tickets on faster trains.

Full-Fare Tickets (Normalpreis or Flexpreis): The most you’ll ever have to pay for a journey is this unrestricted fare (the term Normalpreis is used for regional trains, and Flexpreis for fast trains). These fares allow you to easily change your plans and switch to an earlier or later train, without paying a penalty. (If you buy a Normalpreis ticket for a slower train, though, you can’t use it on a fast one without paying extra.)

Discount Fares (Sparpreis): If you reserve a ticket on a fast train at least a day in advance and are comfortable committing to specific departure times, you can usually save 25-75 percent over the Flexpreis. These tickets are more restrictive; you must take the train listed on the ticket (or pay a €10 fee to cancel at least one day ahead in exchange for a voucher, not a cash refund). The cheapest (Super Sparpreis) are not refundable or changeable. Discounted fares go on sale six to nine months in advance and remain available until one day before departure, though the cheap seats often sell out earlier.

Savings on Slow Trains: You can usually save money on point-to-point tickets if you’re willing to skip Germany’s high-speed trains (IC, EC, and ICE) and limit yourself to regional trains (most commonly labeled RB, RE, IRE, or S, but also a range of region-specific names). For example, Freiburg to Baden-Baden might cost €30 by ICE, €25 by EC, or €15 by RE train. To limit your search to these slower, cheaper trains, select “only local transport” on the Deutsche Bahn website or at ticket machines.

Day Passes

You may save even more with two types of extremely popular day passes valid only on slow trains: the various Länder-Tickets and the Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket. They are most cost-effective for groups of two to five people, but single travelers can benefit from them, too.

Länder-Ticket (Regional Day Pass): In English, Länder-Tickets are sometimes called “regional day tickets” or listed under “regional offers.” With a Länder-Ticket, up to five people traveling together get unlimited travel in second class on regional trains for one day at a very cheap price (generally €24-26 for the first person plus €6-8 for each additional person). There are a few restrictions: A Länder-Ticket only covers travel within a certain Land (Germany’s version of a US state, such as Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, Saxony, or Rheinland-Pfalz), doesn’t work for the fastest classes of trains (ICE, IC, EC), and doesn’t cover travel on weekdays before 9:00. Still, Länder-Tickets offer big savings, don’t require advance purchase, and are also valid on local transit. For example, a Bayern-Ticket (the Bavarian version of a Länder-Ticket) not only gets you from Munich to Füssen, but also covers the bus from Füssen to Neuschwanstein and back.

Some scenarios: From Munich to Nürnberg, ICE express trains take one hour and 10 minutes and cost €55 at full fare; RE regional trains take at least 35 minutes longer and cost €40. However, a Bayern-Ticket lets one person ride the RE trains in Bavaria for only €25 (plus €8 for each additional person), provided you leave after 9:00. Plus, if you return that same day, there’s no additional cost. The Baden-Ticket offers similar deals on the run from Freiburg to Baden-Baden, and the Rhineland-Pfalz-Ticket makes sense for longer day trips around the Rhine and the Mosel (for example, from Bacharach or Trier to Burg Eltz). Sometimes several smaller Länder are covered by a single ticket. For example, the Sachsen-Ticket covers trips in Saxony (including Dresden and Leipzig) as well as the neighboring Länder of Sachsen-Anhalt (Wittenberg) and Thuringia (Erfurt and Eisenach).

Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket (Country-wide Day Pass): This ticket works like a Länder-Ticket, but gives you the run of the whole country. It’s valid on any regional train anywhere in Germany, but doesn’t include city transit (first person-€42, each additional passenger-€78, maximum of 5 travelers, only valid weekdays after 9:00, but on a Saturday or Sunday it starts at midnight). Two people could make the four-hour trip from Frankfurt to Trier on regional trains for €49 with a Quer-durchs-Land ticket. This trip would otherwise cost €91 for two people. For even larger groups, these tickets save serious money.

Buying Tickets

Online: You can buy train tickets online (www.bahn.com) and print them out, or save them to your phone as an eticket. If you print out your ticket, the conductor may also ask to see your passport. You can also book seat reservations (optional) with a rail pass for trips within Germany—start to buy a regular ticket, then check the box for “seat only (no ticket).” Another option is to use the DB Navigator app.

At the Station: Major German stations have a handy Reisezentrum (travel center) where you can ask questions and buy tickets (with a €2 markup for the personal service). You can also buy tickets from machines, which come in two types.

The silver, red, and blue touch-screen machines (marked with the Deutsche Bahn logo and Fahrkarten, which means “tickets”) are user-friendly. They sell both short- and long-distance train tickets, and print schedules for free. Touch the flag to switch to English (some rare screens are German-only). You can pay with bills, coins, or credit cards—but US credit cards may not work. There’s one exception: Any trip that is entirely within the bounds of a city’s metropolitan transport network (e.g., Frankfurt-Bacharach or Nürnberg-Rothenburg) is considered local: Tickets can only be bought on the day of travel, and you must pay cash.

Each German city transport network also has its own machines that sell local public transit tickets as well as same-day tickets to nearby destinations (usually including Länder-Ticket day passes). At some smaller, unstaffed stations, these machines are the only ticket-buying option. You’ll see the logo of the city or regional transport network on the machine. Increasingly, these machines are multilingual, with touch screens, and take American cards with contactless pay or chip-and-PIN options (though others take only cash and German cards).

On the Train: If you boarded without a ticket, you can purchase one from the DB website (www.bahn.com) or with the DB Navigator app up to 10 minutes after entering the train (you’ll need Internet access). Conductors no longer sell tickets, and you can get fined without one. Note that ticket checkers on local trains aren’t necessarily in uniform.

Getting a Seat

As you board or exit a train, you’ll usually have to push a button or flip a lever to open the door. Watch locals and imitate.

On the faster ICE, IC, and EC trains, it costs €4.50 extra per person to reserve a seat, which you can do at a station ticket desk, a touch-screen machine, or online (especially useful with a rail pass or a second-class ticket). If buying a first-class ticket on these trains, you can add a seat assignment for free at the time of purchase. German trains generally offer ample seating, but popular routes do fill up, especially on holiday weekends. If your itinerary is set, seat reservations can be worth it for the peace of mind. They’re especially smart for small groups and families (€9 reservation cap for families) and for anyone traveling at peak times.

On ICE trains, families with small children can book special compartments called Kleinkindabteil, which have extra room for strollers and diaper changing, for the regular seat-reservation price.

With rare exceptions, there’s no need to go through a US agent to make a seat reservation in advance of your trip; just do it online or at a German station. Reservations may be required on international trains and buses (specified in schedule). Slower regional trains don’t even accept them.

If you have a seat reservation, while waiting for your train to arrive, note the departure time and Wagen (car) number and look along the train platform for the diagram (Wagenstandanzeiger) showing what sector of the platform the car will arrive at (usually A through F). Stand in that sector to avoid a last-minute dash to the right car or a long walk through the train to your seat. This is especially important for ICE trains, which are often divided into two unconnected parts.

If you’re traveling without a reservation and are looking for an open seat, check the displays (or, in older trains, the slips of paper) that mark reserved seats. If you have a hard time finding an unreserved seat, take a closer look at the reservations—if you find a seat that’s reserved for a leg of the journey that doesn’t overlap with yours, you’re free to take the seat. For example, if you’re traveling from Frankfurt to Würzburg on a Munich-bound train, and you find a seat reserved only from Würzburg to Munich, it’s all yours—you’ll be getting off the train as the reservation holder boards in Würzburg.

In stations without elevators, you can take advantage of the luggage belts along the stairs to each platform. They start automatically when you put your bag on the bottom or top of the belt.

Bikes on Board

Your bike can travel with you for €5 per day on regional trains or €9 per trip on fast trains. Deutsche Bahn’s helpful website even has a list of bike-rental shops that are in or near train stations. Rentals usually run about €10-15 a day, and some rental outfits offer easy “pick up here and drop off there” plans.

LONG-DISTANCE BUSES

While most American travelers still find the train to be the better option (mainly because rail passes make German train travel affordable and no-hassle), ultra-low-fare long-distance buses are worth considering. For example, a full-fare (second-class) train ticket from Munich to Freiburg can cost almost €100, while a bus ticket for this route can cost €20 or less (it helps if you’re willing to buy a few days ahead and aren’t picky about departure times).

While buses don’t offer as extensive a network as trains, they do cover the most popular cities for travelers, often with a direct connection. The primary disadvantage to buses is limited capacity: Buses are far less likely than trains to have a seat available for those who show up sans ticket (especially on either end of a weekend). And compared to trains, buses also offer fewer departures per day, though your options probably aren’t too shabby on major routes served by multiple operators. Trains also beat buses in travel time and convenience, although often not by much. For the Munich-Freiburg trip, bus travelers will spend about an hour or two longer en route than they would on the train (more if stuck in traffic—though train delays can happen, too).

Bus tickets are sold on the spot (on board and/or at kiosks at some bus terminals), but because the cheapest fares often sell out, it’s best to book online as soon as you’re sure of your plans (at a minimum, book a few days ahead to nab the best prices). The main bus operator is FlixBus (www.flixbus.de). Though not as comfortable as trains, their brightly colored buses are surprisingly well outfitted and make for a more pleasant ride than your average Greyhound trip. Most offer free Wi-Fi and onboard snack bars and WCs.

Bus terminals vary; you may find a true depot with ticket kiosks and overhead shelter, or just a stretch of street with a cluster of bus stops. Serious bus stations are labeled across Germany as “ZOB” (for Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof—central bus station). While most cities’ bus terminals are usually a block or two from the train station, in some bigger cities (such as Munich and Berlin), bus travelers have to go a little farther afield to catch their ride.

TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES

Most European taxis are reliable and cheap. In many cities, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. If you like ride-booking services such as Uber, their apps usually work in Europe just like they do in the US: Request a car on your mobile phone (connected to Wi-Fi or data), and the fare is automatically charged to your credit card.

RENTING A CAR

It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (AutoEurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper AutoEurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.

Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”

Rental Costs and Considerations

If you book well in advance, expect to pay $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking.

Manual vs. Automatic: Almost all rental cars in Europe are manual by default—and cars with a stick shift are generally cheaper. If you need an automatic, reserve one specifically. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.

Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car rental websites.

Choosing Pick-up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the location you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.

Crossing Borders in a Rental Car: Be aware that international trips—say, picking up in Berlin and dropping off in Prague—can be expensive if the rental company assesses a drop-off fee for crossing a border.

Always tell your car-rental company exactly which countries you’ll be entering. Some companies levy extra insurance fees for trips taken in certain countries with certain cars (such as BMWs, Mercedes, and convertibles). Double-check with your rental agent that you have all the documentation you need before you drive off (especially if you’re crossing borders into non-Schengen countries, such as Croatia, where you might need to present proof of insurance).

Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.

Car Insurance Options

When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (free, but more complicated), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.

Basic CDW costs $15–30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10–30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).

If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your card company about how it works.

If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical option. For example, Travel Guard (TravelGuard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.

For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.

Navigation Options

If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.

Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—also have offline route directions, but you’ll need mobile data access for current traffic. For more on using a mapping app without burning through data, see “Using Your Phone in Europe,” earlier.

GPS Devices: If you want a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car (about $20/day, or sometimes included—ask). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Make sure you know how to use the device—and that the language is set to English—before you drive off.

Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at a local gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.

Driving

Road Rules: Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times, and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. In Germany, kids under age 12 (or less than about 5 feet tall) must ride in an appropriate child-safety seat. Seat belts are mandatory for all, and two beers under those belts are enough to land you in jail. You’re required to use low-beam headlights if it’s overcast, raining, or snowing. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light, unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the “International Travel” section of the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn About Your Destination” box, then click on “Travel & Transportation”).

Fuel: Unleaded gasoline comes in “Super” (95 octane) and “Super Plus” (98 octane). Pumps marked “E10” or “Super E10” mean the gas contains 10 percent ethanol—make sure your rental can run on this mix. You don’t have to worry about learning the German word for diesel (it’s Diesel). Some pumps are color-coded: Unleaded pumps are green and labeled “E,” while diesel pumps (often yellow or black) are labeled “B”. Your US credit and debit cards may not work at self-service gas pumps. Pay the attendant or carry enough euros.

Navigation: Use good local maps and study them before each drive. Learn which exits you need to look out for, which major cities you’ll travel toward, where the ruined castles lurk, and so on. Every long drive between my recommended destinations is via the autobahn (super-freeway), and nearly every scenic backcountry drive is paved and comfortable. Learn the universal road signs (explained in charts in most road atlases and at service stations). To get to the center of a city, follow signs for Zentrum or Stadtmitte. Ring roads go around a city.

The Autobahn: Blue signs direct you to the autobahn, which generally provides the shortest trip between any two points (no speed limit in many sections, toll-free within Germany). To understand this complex but super-efficient freeway, look for the Autobahn Service booklet at any autobahn rest stop (free, lists all stops, services, road symbols, and more). Learn the signs: Dreieck (“three corners”) means a Y-intersection; Autobahnkreuz is where two expressways cross. Rest stops are spaced about every 20 miles and often have a gas station, a restaurant, a minimarket, and sometimes a tourist information desk. Peruse the map and anticipate which town names to look out for. Know what you’re looking for—miss it, and you’re long autobahn-gone. When navigating, you’ll see Nord, Süd, Ost, and West. Electronic signs warning of dangerous conditions may include one of these words: Unfall (accident), Nebel (fog), or Stau (congestion).

Autobahns in Germany are famous for having no speed limit, but many sections do have a limit, particularly in urban areas and near complicated interchanges. Sometimes there are signs with “dynamic” limits that change depending on traffic conditions. There are also cameras that take pictures of the speeder’s license plate—so obey the law or be prepared to pay.

It’s important to stay alert on the autobahn: Everything happens much more quickly, and the speed differential between lanes can be dangerous for unaccustomed drivers. Watch for potential lane changers, whether from your right or from behind—a roaring Mercedes can appear out of thin air in your rearview mirror.

Even if you’re obeying posted limits, don’t cruise in the passing lane; stay right (it’s the law). Since it’s illegal to pass on the right on the autobahn, drivers will angrily flash their lights, and possibly tailgate, if you drive in a passing lane. Obstructing traffic on the autobahn is against the law—so running out of fuel, or even cruising in the far-left lane—is not only dangerous, it can earn you a big ticket. In fast-driving Germany, the backed-up line caused by an insensitive slow driver is called an Autoschlange, or “car snake.” What’s the difference between a car snake and a real snake? According to locals, “On a real snake, the ass is in the back.”

Umweltplakette for Driving in German Cities: To drive into specially designated “environmental zones” (Umweltzone) in the centers of many German cities—including Munich, Freiburg, Frankfurt, Cologne, Dresden, Leipzig, and Berlin—you are required to display an Umweltplakette sticker. Literally “environmental sticker,” these come standard with most German rental cars (ask when you pick up your car). If you’re renting a car outside of Germany and plan to enter one of these cities, be sure you have one (sold cheap—around €10—at the border and at gas stations; you’ll need the registration and legal paperwork that came with your rental; see www.umwelt-plakette.de).

Parking: To park on the street, pick up a blue parking clock (Parkscheibe, available free at gas stations, police stations, and Tabak shops). Display your arrival time on the clock and put it on the dashboard, so parking attendants can see you’ve been there less than the posted maximum stay. Your US credit and debit cards may not work at automated parking garages—bring cash.

Theft: Thieves easily recognize rental cars and assume they are filled with a tourist’s gear. Be sure all your valuables are out of sight and locked in the trunk, or even better, with you or in your room.

Driving in Austria: If you side-trip by car into Austria, bring your US driver’s license and get an International Driving Permit (for details, go to RickSteves.com and search for “IDP”). Austria charges drivers who use their expressways. You’ll need to have a vignette sticker stuck to the inside of your rental car’s windshield (€9.50 for 10 days, buy at border crossing, big gas stations near borders, or a rental-car agency). Place it on your windshield exactly as shown on the back of the sticker, and keep the lower tear-off portion—it’s your receipt. A few short expressway stretches are conveniently exempt from the sticker requirement (see the Salzburg chapter for details). Dipping into Austria on regular roads—such as around Reutte in Tirol, or the less-direct route between the German border and Salzburg—requires no special payment. In Austria, green signs direct you to the autobahn, and autobahn speed limits are enforced.

FLIGHTS

To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: Kayak is the top site for flights to and within Europe, easy-to-use Google Flights has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.

Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see my hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at RickSteves.com/hub-airports.

Flights within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet or Ryanair. Others with strong presence in Germany are Eurowings, Condor, WizzAir, and TUIfly. Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and a larger carbon footprint than a train or bus.

Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).

Resources from Rick Steves

Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com

My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; my travel blog; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/forums).

Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).

Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).

Rick Steves’ Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More

Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year over 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to get our tour catalog, visit RickSteves.com/tours or call us at +1 425 608 4217.

Books: This book is just one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.

TV Shows and Travel Talks: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year (watch full episodes at my website for free). In particular, two Rick Steves’ Europe TV shows worth viewing are my Berlin episode and my one-hour special on The Story of Fascism in Europe. My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (Classroom.RickSteves.com). And to raise your travel I.Q., check out the video versions of our popular classes (covering most European countries as well as travel skills, packing smart, cruising, tech for travelers, European art, and travel as a political act—RickSteves.com/travel-talks).

Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced dozens of free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, see here.

Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.

Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a weekly selection of video clips from my public television show, my audio tours of Europe’s top sights, and live recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/watch-read-listen/audio/podcasts).