S

Sablet: 654, 660, 664

Sacré-Cœur (Paris): 49, 115–116

S. Paul Monastery and Hospital (St-Rémy): 637–639

St. Aubin: 876

St. Bénezet Bridge (Avignon): 614–615

St. Catherine Church (Honfleur): 234–235

St. Catherine’s Tower (Dinan): 332

St-Cirq Lapopie: 512–514

St-Cyprien: market, 447

St-Denis Church (Amboise): 369

Ste. Cécile Cathedral (Albi): 522–525

Sainte-Chapelle (Paris): 48, 66–68, 122; map, 67

Ste. Madeleine Basilica (Vézelay): 893–896

Ste-Mère Eglise: 293–295

St-Emilion: 440, 497–499

St. Etienne Cathedral (Bourges): 900–902

St. Etienne Church (Honfleur): 234

St. Francois de Sales Church (Annecy): 790

St. Genest Church (Flavigny): 887

St-Geniès: market, 447

St. Georges Church (Lyon): 920

St. Georges de Boscherville Abbey: 224

St-Jacut-de-la-Mer: 348

St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: 744

St. Jean Cathedral (Lyon): 926–927

St-Jeannet: 779–780

St. Julien-le-Pauvre Church (Paris): 65

St-Laurent-sur-Mer: 280; sleeping, 288–289

St. Leo IX Chapel (Eguisheim): 987–988

St. Louis Cathedral (Blois): 401

St. Maclou Church (Rouen): 221

St-Malo: 338–348; eating, 346–348; helpful hints, 342; map, 341; nightlife, 347; sights/activities, 342–346; sleeping, 346; tourist information, 340; transportation, 320, 340, 348

St-Malo bulldogs: 343

St-Malo Ramparts: 338, 342–344

St-Marcellin-lès-Vaison: 657

St. Martin Church (Colmar): 962

St. Michael’s Chapel (Rocamadour): 509

St. Michael’s Church (Chamonix): 811–812

St. Michael’s Church (Villefranche): 732–733

St. Michel Church (Roussillon): 670

St-Mihiel: 1057–1058

St. Nazaire Church (Carcassonne): 542

St. Nazaire Tower (Carcassonne): 542

St. Nicholas Church (Blois): 401

St-Paul-de-Vence: 775–777

St. Peter’s Cathedral (Annecy): 791

St. Peter’s Church (Mont St-Michel): 310

St. Pierre Church (Avignon): 617

St-Rémy-de-Provence: 636–642; map, 638

St. Réparate Cathedral (Nice): 703

St-Romain: 877

St. Sacerdos Cathedral (Sarlat): 452

St. Salvy Church and Cloister (Albi): 528

St. Sauveur Church (Dinan): 331–332

St. Saveur Church (Rocamadour): 509–510

St-Suliac: 334–335

St. Sulpice Church (Fougères): 353

St. Sulpice Church (Paris): 100–101

St. Thomas Church (Strasbourg): 1012–1013

St. Trophime Church (Arles): 588–589

St. Trophime Cloisters (Arles): 589–590

St. Vincent Church (Les Baux): 635

Salin de Giraud: 596–597

Salvador Dalí Theater-Museum (Figueres): 564

Sanctuary of Our Lady of Rocamadour: 507–510

Santenay: 877

Santons: 660, 700; Museum (Les Baux), 635

Saône River: 909, 914, 920; cruises, 919, 934

Sarlat-la-Canéda: 447–460; eating, 458–459; helpful hints, 450–451; maps, 449, 457; markets, 447, 450, 453–454; self-guided walk, 451–455; sleeping, 455–458; tourist information, 448; transportation, 448, 460

Satie (Erik) Museum (Honfleur): 237–238

Savigny-lès-Beaune: 873–874, 880

Saving Private Ryan (movie): 268, 280, 1144

Savoie: See Alps; Chamonix

Schweitzer, Albert: 983, 992; biographical sketch, 994; Museum (Kaysersberg), 996

Seasons: 19, 22

Séguret: 654, 658–660

Seine River: 34, 71–72, 224, 225, 228, 234, 238, 239, 368–369; beaches, in Paris, 48, 71–72; canooeing, 368; cruises, 46–47, 123

Semur-en-Auxois: 889, 891

Sensation Vin (Beaune): 861–862

Sentier du Littoral (Villefranche): 733–734

Sentier Touristique de Tirepoil: 770–771

Sewers of Paris: 94

Shakespeare and Company (Paris): 65

Shopping: clothing sizes, 1145; hours, 1073–1074; Paris, 117–120; VAT refunds, 1079. See also specific destinations

Sightseeing: best three-week trip, 20–23; designing an itinerary, 18–19, 22–24; maps and navigation tools, 1080; must-see destinations, 12–14; planning tips, 1080–1081; reservations, 27, 1081; worth-it destinations, 15–16. See also specific sights and destinations

Sigolsheim: 997

Silk, in Lyon: 929–932

SIM cards: 1115

Sisteron: 678

Skiing, in Chamonix: 832

Sleep code: 1083

Sleeping: 1083–1093; booking sites, 1086; budget tips, 25–26, 1083–1084; reservations, 25–26, 27, 1090–1091; types of accommodations, 1084–1093. See also specific destinations

Sleeping Beauty castle (Ussé): 424

Smartphones: 28, 1113–1115. See also Apps

Sorbonne (Paris): 66

Sorgue River: 667–668

Souillac: market, 447

Spain: day trip, 564

Special events: 1139–1141. See also specific destinations

Stained Glass Center, International (Chartres): 194–195

Stein, Gertrude: 113

Strasbourg: 1004–1017; eating, 1015–1016; helpful hints, 1005–1008; history of, 1009; map, 1006–1007; planning tips, 1004; sights/activities, 1008–1014; sleeping, 1014–1015; tourist information, 1004; transportation, 1004–1005, 1017

Strasbourg Archaeological Museum: 1011

Strasbourg Cathedral: 1008–1011, 1014

Strasbourg-Entzheim Airport: 1005

Strasbourg Historical Museum: 1012

Strasbourg Museum of Fine Arts: 1011

Suzette: 662

Switzerland: car travel, 784; hiking, 832–833; Martigny, 811, 834

Sword of Roland: 509

Synagogues: 617; Avignon, 617

T

Taittinger (Reims): 1038

Taizé: 907–908

Talloires: 796

Tanners’ Quarter (Colmar): 958

Tapisserie de Bayeux: 250–251

Taxes: VAT refunds, 1079

Taxis: 1127; Lyon, 918; Nice, 691; Paris, 42–44, 124–125; to/from airports, 160–162; tipping, 1078, 1079. See also specific destinations

Téléphériques: See Gondolas, in Chamonix

Telephones: 1113–1115

Temperatures, average monthly: 1146

TGV trains: 1117, 1120, 1122–1123; map, 1118–1119; Paris, 163, 164, 167

Théâtre Antique (Roman Theater): Arles, 587–588; Lyon, 917, 923–926; Orange, 644–646

Théâtre des Jacobins (Dinan): 329

Theft alerts: 29, 31, 1072, 1134; Nice, 687; Paris, 36

Time zones: 1073

Tintin (comic strip): 411

Tipping: 1078

Tobacco stands (tabacs): 1116; Paris, 38

Tollbooths, about: 1135

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Paris): 105–106

Tonnellerie Francois Frères (St-Romain): 877

TootBus (Paris): 46, 124

Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri: 88; Museum (Albi), 525–528

Tour Bidouane (St-Malo): 343

Tour de France: 103, 1140

Tour de Madeloc: 563–564

Tour du Mont Blanc: 810, 828–829

Tour Eiffel (Paris): 48, 90–94, 123; tickets, 27, 90–91

Tour guides: 28. See also specific destinations

Tourist information: 1072. See also specific destinations

Tourist scams, in Paris: 36–37

Tourist trains: See Petit train

Tour Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 224

Tour Métallique (Lyon): 920

Tour Montparnasse (Paris): 102

Tour Philippe-le-Bel (Villeneuve): 619–620

Tours: Rick Steves, 1137. See also specific destinations

Tours-sur-Marne: 1042

Traboules: 917, 926, 929

Train stations, in Paris: 162–167; map, 163

Train travel: 1117–1125; baggage check, 1124; best three-week trip, 22–23; budgeting, 25; coping with strikes, 1123; general tips, 1124–1125; glossary of terms, 1124; map, 1118–1119; Paris, 41, 162–167; reservations, 27, 1122–1123, 1125; schedules, 1117; tickets, 1121, 1125. See also specific destinations

Tranchée des Baïonnettes (Verdun): 1056

Trans Côte d’Azur: 683, 692–693, 724

Transilien: 40, 41, 163–164

Transportation: 1116–1136; budgeting, 25; budget tips, 26; map, 1118–1119; pre-booking, 27. See also Boat cruises; Buses; Car travel; Train travel; and specific destinations

Travel advisories: 1071

Travel insurance: 28, 1073, 1130

Travel smarts: 29, 31–32

Travel tips: 1071–1074

Treverien: 333

Triangle of Friendship (Chamonix): 811

Trianon Palaces (Versailles): 170, 173, 183–185

Trip costs: 25

Trocadéro (Paris): 123

Troglodyte houses (Amboise): 372

Trophée des Alpes: 739

Truffles: 118–119, 445–446, 450, 454

Tuileries Garden (Paris): 72

Turckheim: 982–983

U

Uber: 1127; Lyon, 918; Nice, 691; Paris, 42, 124–125, 160, 161

Unicorn tapestries: 49, 97, 100

Unterlinden Museum (Colmar): 963–968

Ussé Château: 424

Utah Beach: 289–295; maps, 262–263, 291

Utah Beach Landing Museum: 292–293

V

Vacqueyras: 663

Vaison-la-Romaine: 571, 648–658; eating, 656–657; helpful hints, 649–651; map, 650; sights/activities, 651–654; sleeping, 654–655; tourist information, 648–649; transportation, 649, 657–658

Valle d’Aosta, Italy: 834–835, 841

Vallée Blanche (Alps): 817, 819

Vandenesse-en-Auxois: 883–884

Van der Weyden, Roger: 856–857

Van Gogh, Vincent: 87–88, 619; in Arles, 578, 582; self-guided walk, 582–593; in St-Rémy, 637–639

VAT refunds: 1079

Vedettes du Pont Neuf (Paris): 46–47

Vegetarians: 1102

Vélib’ Bikes (Paris): 45

Vence: 777–781

Vence Museum: 779

Venus de Milo: 76–77

Vercingétorix: 884, 885, 886, 970

Verdun: 16, 1046–1049; maps, 1020–1021; planning tips, 1018; sleeping and eating, 1048–1049; tourist information, 1047; transportation, 1018–1019, 1047, 1049

Verdun Battlefields: 1046–1048, 1049–1057; background, 1051–1052; driving tour, 1052–1057; eating, 1050–1051; map, 1050; transportation, 1051

Verdun Memorial Museum: 1054

Vernon: 195–197, 200

Verrerie d’Art de Kaysersberg: 994

Versailles: 169–185; map, 174–175; orientation, 173, 176–177; planning tips, 172–173; transportation, 170–172

Versailles Château: 48, 169–170, 177–181; map, 179; orientation, 173, 176–177; self-guided tour, 177–181

Versailles Gardens: 169–170, 173, 176–177, 181–183; spectacles in, 176–177; transportation, 182

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin (Reims): 1039

Vézelay: 892–897

Victoire de Samothrace: 77

Victory Monument (Verdun): 1048

Vieil-Armand WWI Memorial (Cernay): 982

Vienne River: 416, 417; canoeing, 416, 423–424; cruises, 416

Vierville-sur-Mer: 281, 284; sleeping, 288–289

Vieux Bassin (Honfleur): 228, 232, 240; eating, 242–243

Vieux Colmar: See Old Town

Vieux Lyon: 914, 917, 926–930; eating, 939; maps, 928, 940–941; nightlife, 937; sleeping, 937–938

Vieux Nice: 686, 692, 698–703; eating, 714–715; maps, 688–689, 716–717; self-guided walk, 698–703; sleeping, 714–715

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (Cap Ferrat): 741–743

Village des Martyrs (Oradour-sur-Glane): 495–497

Village Détruit de Fleury (Verdun): 1054–1055

Villa La Leopolda (Villefranche-sur-Mer): 738

Villa Masséna (Nice): 694–695

Villandry: 423, 433–435; eating, 426, 435

Villandry Château: 361, 433–435

Ville Basse (Carcassonne): 534, 545

Ville-Basse (Vaison-la-Romaine): 648, 654; eating, 656–657; sleeping, 655

Villefranche-sur-Mer: 676, 677, 690, 726–738; map, 730–731

Villefranche-sur-Mer Citadel: 733

Villefranche-sur-Mer Harbor: 729, 732; eating, 735–736

Villefranche-sur-Saône: 944

Ville-Haute (Vaison-la-Romaine): 648, 653–654; eating, 656; sleeping, 655

Villeneuve Château (Vence): 779

Villeneuve-lès-Avignon: 619–620

Vineyards: See Wine and vineyards

Visitor information: 1072. See also specific destinations

Vitrac: 462, 463

Vitteaux: 891

Volnay: 875

Vosne-Romanée: 881

Vougeot: 881–882

Vouvray: 363, 375, 378

W

Walking: See Hiking

Watchman’s home (Bayeux): 253

Way of the Cross (Rocamadour): 503, 507, 508, 509

Weather: 19, 22, 1146

Western Emerald Coast: 348–352

Wilde, Oscar: 113

Wine and vineyards: 1112–1113; Beaujolais, 910, 919, 944–945; Bordeaux, 498–499; Côtes du Rhône, 571, 646, 654, 658–664; Languedoc-Roussillon, 518–519, 538, 546, 562, 563–564; Loire Valley, 363, 375, 378, 411, 420, 422–423; Lyon, 910; Paris, 153; Provence,: guided tours, 573–575; Riviera, 685; savoring tactics, 1110–1111; vocabulary, 1111. See also Alsatian wines; Burgundy wines; Champagne

Wine Road (Alsace): See Route du Vin

Winged Victory of Samothrace: 77

Winters, Richard: 291–292

World War I: 95, 532, 946, 994, 1003, 1030, 1068; Verdun Battlefields, 1046–1048, 1049–1057; Vieil-Armand WWI Memorial (Cernay), 982

World War II: 95–96, 245, 253, 584, 950, 983, 1003, 1028, 1068; Deportation Memorial (Paris), 63–64; Holocaust Memorial (Paris), 112; Kaysersberg, 994, 996, 997; Museum of the Surrender (Reims), 1031; Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux), 255; Resistance and Deportation History Center (Lyon), 917; Village des Martyrs (Oradour-sur-Glane), 495–497. See also D-Day beaches

Y

Yachts of Antibes: 766

Yves Brayer Museum (Les Baux): 635

Z

Zellenberg: 1001