INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Y
Z      

A

Abbeys: Cluny, 904, 905–907; Fontenay, 887–889; Fontevraud, 361, 435–437; Jumièges, 224–225; Mont St-Michel, 310–315; Notre-Dame de Sénanque, 673; St. Georges de Boscherville, 224

Abri du Cap Blanc: 483, 488–489

Absinthe: 527, 592, 767

Acccommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Aiguille du Dru (Alps): 819

Aiguille du Midi Gondola (Alps): 808–809, 810, 814–819; hiking, 824–825; maps, 809, 815; overview, 810, 814–816

Airbnb: 25–26, 26, 1086–1087, 1091; Paris, 138

Airborne Museum (Utah Beach): 294–295

Airlines (airfares): 25, 1136

Airports: Geneva, 788, 805, 841; Lyon, 915; Nice, 725; Paris, 157–162; Strasbourg, 1005

Aître St. Maclou (Rouen): 221–222

À l’Aise Breizh (Dinan): 330

Albert I Park (Nice): 697

Albert Schweitzer Museum (Kaysersberg): 996

Albi: 519–530; eating, 529–530; helpful hints, 521–522; map, 520; sights/activities, 522–528; sleeping, 529; tourist information, 521; transportation, 521, 530

Alésia MuséoParc (Alise-Ste-Reine): 884–885

Alet: 344, 345–346

Alise Ste-Reine: 884–885, 889, 891

Allen, Paul: 729

All the Light We Cannot See (Doerr): 339, 1142

Almanac: 1060

Aloxe-Corton: 872–873, 879

Alpilles Mountains: 586–587, 631

Alps (Alpes-Savoie): 15, 782–841; geology, 820–821; map, 783; planning tips, 783–784; transportation, 784. See also Annecy; Chamonix

Alsace: 16, 946–1017; cuisine, 949; map, 947; planning tips, 948; transportation, 948. See also specific destinations

Alsatian folk dancing and music: 971, 1014

Alsatian half-timbered houses: 959, 960, 961, 998, 1002–1003

Alsatian Museum (Strasbourg): 1012

Alsatian wines: 949–950, 975–985; about, 980–981; Colmar, 954, 958, 961, 967–968, 971, 975; Eguisheim, 989–990; map, 977; Riquewihr, 998–1001; Route du Vin, 975–985; tours, 979, 981

Amboise: 364–387; eating, 382–384; helpful hints, 365, 368; as home base, 355; maps, 366–367, 386–387; self-guided walk, 368–370; sights/activities, 368–378; sleeping, 378–382; tourist information, 364–365; transportation, 365, 384–387

Amboise City Hall Museum: 370

Amboise Clock Tower: 370

Amboise Royal Castle (Château): 360–361, 371–372, 374

American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 278–280

American Cemetery and Memorial (Thiaucourt): 1058

American Church (Paris): 122

American Hospital (Paris): 37

Amphithéâtre (Arles): 585–586

Amsterdam: train travel, 164, 167

Angladon Museum (Avignon): 619

Angoville-au-Plain Church: 290–291

Anis candies: 885, 887

Annecy: 785–802; eating, 800–801; helpful hints, 788–789; history of, 790; maps, 786–787, 794; nightlife, 801; sights/activities, 789–798; sleeping, 799–800; tourist information, 785; transportation, 786–788, 802

Annecy Château Museum: 792–793

Annecy, Lake: 785, 790, 793–795; beaches, 793; bike path, 795; boating, 789, 793–794; cruises, 794–795; drive around, 797–798; map, 794

Annecy Museum: 790–792

Antibes: 677, 760–774; eating, 772–774; helpful hints, 764–765; as home base, 675–676; map, 762–763; self-guided walk, 765–768; sights/activities, 765–771; sleeping, 771–772; tourist information, 761; transportation, 761, 764, 765, 774

Antibes History and Archaeology Museum: 769

Antibes Market Hall: 764, 766–767, 773–774

Anybody’s Tombstone (Dinan): 329

Aosta, Italy: 834–835, 841

Apartment rentals: 1086–1087, 1091–1092; Paris, 138

Aperitifs: 1113

Apps: 28, 1115; maps and navigation, 1080, 1130, 1132; messaging, 1115; Paris, 38; payment, 28, 1076; sightseeing, 1082; translation, 1074; user reviews, 1087

Aquarium, in Monaco: 756–757

Aqueduct (Pont du Gard): 626–631

“Arc de Triomphe” (Orange): 646

Arc de Triomphe (Paris): 49, 105–106, 123

Archaeological museums: Alise Ste-Reine, 884–885; Antibes, 769; Arles, 594–595; Cluny, 905; Colmar, 967; Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, 483, 485–486; Lyon, 923–926; Nice, 707; Paris, 97, 100; Pont du Gard, 629; Strasbourg, 1011

Archaeological sites: See Cro-Magnon caves; Roman sites

Argentière: 830–831, 832

Arlaten Folk Museum (Arles): 590, 593–594

Arles: 571, 577–605; eating, 601–605; helpful hints, 579, 582; maps, 580–581, 597, 602–603; planning tips, 578; self-guided walk, 582–593; sights/activities, 582–599; sleeping, 599–600; tourist information, 578; transportation, 578–579, 582, 605

Arles Ancient History Museum: 594–595

Arles Roman Arena: 585–586

Arles Roman Theater: 587–588

Army Museum (Paris): 48, 95–96

Arpentis Château: 381

Arromanches: 268–274; eating, 274; map, 269; sights, 270–272; sleeping, 272–273

Arromanches 360° Theater: 271

Art: history timeline, 1064–1065; of the Riviera, 683–684. See also Cro-Magnon caves; Impressionism; and specific artists

Art museums: general tips, 1081–1082. See also specific art museums

Arve River: 810, 812–813, 831

Atelier de Soierie (Lyon): 931

Athenaeum (Beaune): 849

Atlantic Wall: 255, 275, 276, 293, 300, 343

ATMs: 1075–1077. See also specific destinations

Attitude, French: 30

Aude River: 545

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 28, 1138

Aure River: 245, 254

Autoire: 502

Auvers-sur-Oise: guided tours, 52–53

Auzou (Rouen): 215

Avant Port (Honfleur): 233

Avenue de la République (Beaune): 859

Avenue Jean Médecin (Nice): 699

Avignon: 571, 606–626; eating, 624–625; helpful hints, 610–611; maps, 608–609, 622–623; self-guided walk, 612–618; sights/activities, 612–620; sleeping, 620–624; tourist information, 606–607; tours, 611–612; transportation, 607, 610, 625–626

Avignon City Hall: 612

Avignon Festival: 606, 610, 1140

Avignon Market Hall: 611–612, 617–618

Avignon Ramparts: 614

Avignon Synagogue: 617

Avignon Waterwheel: 618

Aÿ: 1042

Azay-le-Rideau: 355, 427–430

Azay-le-Rideau Château: 361, 427–429

B

Baeckeoffe: 949

Baie des Anges (Nice): 695

Ballooning: 362, 444, 469

Band of Brothers (movie): 268, 289, 292

Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 28. See also Money

Barrage Vauban (Strasbourg): 1013

Bartholdi, Frédéric-Auguste: 930–931, 932, 954, 958, 959, 960; Museum (Colmar), 961, 969–971

Basilica of Ste. Madeleine (Vézelay): 893–896

Basse Corniche: 738–739

Bastides: 530–533

Bastille Opera (Paris): 122

Bateaux-Mouches (Paris): 46

Bateaux Parisiens (Paris): 46

Baths of Constantine (Arles): 593

Batobus (Paris): 47

Battle of Hastings: overview, 252

Battle of Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 255

Bayeux: 203, 245–260; eating, 258–259; helpful hints, 248–249; map, 246–247; sights, 250–255; sleeping, 256–258; tourist information, 245; tours, 249; transportation, 245, 248, 259–260

Bayeux Cathedral: 251–253

Bayeux Tapestry: 250–251

Bay of Angels (Nice): 695

Bay of Mont St-Michel: 303, 307–308

Bayonet Trench (Verdun): 1056

Beaches: Annecy, 793; Antibes, 766, 769–770; Cap Ferrat, 743–744; Cap Fréhel, 350–351; Collioure, 556, 560–561, 562; Dinard, 344; Dunes de Chevrêts, 352; Etrétat, 239–240; Nice, 686, 690, 696; Paris, 48, 71–72; Pont du Gard, 629; St-Malo, 338, 343, 347–348; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 734. See also D-Day beaches

Beaujolais: 910, 944–945; tours, 919

Beaulieu-sur-Mer: 744

Beaune: 844, 847–868, 877; eating, 866–868; helpful hints, 848–849; maps, 850–851, 864–865; shopping, 849; sights/activities, 853–862; sleeping, 862–863; tourist information, 847–848; tours, 852–853; transportation, 848, 868

Beaune Clock Tower: 858

Beaune Ramparts: 860

Beaune region: 869–883; maps, 876, 878; north vineyard loop, 874, 877–880; Route des Grands Crus, 874, 880–883; south vineyard loop, 874, 875–877

Beauvais Airport (Paris): 161–162

Bed-and-breakfasts (chambres d’hôtes): 1089–1090. See also specific destinations

“Bedford Boys”: 284

Beer: about, 1113

Belvédère de la Crête: 797

Belvédère du Roc de Chère: 797

Belvès: market, 447

Bennwihr: 983

Bergheim: 984, 1002–1003

Berthillon (Paris): 152

Beverages: 1109–1113. See also Wine and vineyards

Beynac: 462, 464, 471–475; eating, 475; market, 447, 472; sleeping, 474–475

Beynac Château: 472–474

Bibliothèque Carnegie (Reims): 1029

Big Red One Museum (Colleville-sur-Mer): 277–278

Biking (bike rentals): 1135–1136; Tour de France, 103, 1140; Alsace, 954–955, 979–981, 984, 986, 992, 996–997, 1001; Amboise, 368, 374–375; Annecy, 789, 795; Antibes, 764; Arles, 579, 582; Avignon, 610; Bayeux, 249; Beaune, 852–853, 869; Blois, 398, 401; Burgundy, 852–853, 869, 874, 875, 877, 879; Carcassonne, 535, 538; Chambord, 810; Chinon, 416, 423; Colmar, 954–955; Dinan, 328; Dordogne, 443; Eguisheim, 986; Giverny, 197; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 665–666; Kaysersberg, 992, 996–997; Loire Valley, 359–360, 374–375, 398, 401, 406, 416, 423; Luberon, 665–666; Lyon, 918; Mont St-Michel, 301, 306; Nice, 690, 692; Normandy, 263; Paris, 44–45; tours, 50–51; Provence, 573, 610, 637, 654; Rance River Valley, 333–334; Reims, 1023; Ribeauvillé, 984; St-Emilion, 497; St-Malo, 342; St-Rémy-de-Provence, 573, 637; Sarlat, 450; Strasbourg, 1005–1006; Vaison-la-Romaine, 649, 654; Versailles, 182; Villenfranche-sur-Mer, 727

BlaBlaCar: 303, 724, 788, 802, 841, 944, 1126

Black Virgins: 508, 509

Bléré: sleeping, 381–382

Blois: 355, 395–404; map, 396–397

Blois Royal Castle (Château): 360, 398–400

Blues clubs, in Paris: 121

Boat cruises: Annecy, 794–795; Avignon, 611; Beynac, 474; Carcassonne, 545; Chinon, 416; Colmar, 955–956; Dinan, 334; Dinard, 344; Honfleur, 239; La Roque-Gageac, 469; Lyon, 919, 934; Nice, 692–693; Paris, 46–47, 123; Riviera, 683, 692–693, 724; Strasbourg, 1014; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 734

Boating: Amboise, 368; Annecy, 789, 793–794; Antibes, 765; Chenonceaux, 389; hotel barges, overview, 1092–1093; Lyon, 916; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 734. See also Canoeing

Bocuse, Paul: 910, 916, 930, 942–943; Les Halles, 916, 943

Bonaparte Bridge (Lyon): 915, 919–920, 934

Bonaparte, Napoleon: See Napoleon Bonaparte

Bon Marché (Paris): 120

Bonnieux: 674

Books, recommended: 1141–1143

Bordeaux: 498–499

Boudin, Eugène: 228, 233; biographical sketch, 236; Museum (Honfleur), 235–237

Boules: 125, 128, 344, 467, 727, 775; about, 574

Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 933

Boulevard Malesherbes (Paris): 119

Bourges: 899–904; map, 901

Bourges Cathedral: 900–902

Bourges Medieval Quarter: 899, 902–903

Bouzy: 1041–1042

Braille, Louis: 102

Brancion: 907

Brasserie Bofinger (Paris): 148

Brayer (Yves) Museum (Les Baux): 635

Breakfast: overview, 1094–1095

British Military Cemetery (Bayeux): 255

Brittany: 15, 321–353; cuisine, 324; map, 322–323; planning tips, 322; transportation, 323. See also specific destinations

Bruniquel: 531

Brussels: train travel, 167

Budgeting (budget tips): 25–26. See also Money-saving tips

Bullgames, in Arles: 598–599

Burgundy: 16, 842–908; at a glance, 844; cuisine, 844–845; maps, 843, 890; planning tips, 843–844; transportation, 844, 869. See also specific destinations

Burgundy Canal: 883

Burgundy’s Land and Climates (Beaune): 848, 858–859

Burgundy wines: 845–846, 859–862, 869–883; Beaune, 849, 859–862, 867; maps, 876, 878; museums, in Beaune, 858; savoring tactics, 1110–1111; shipping home, 860–861; tours, 852–853, 861; transportation, 869

Buses (bus travel): 1126–1127; best three-week trip, 22–23; Paris, 41–42, 128, 134, 167; to/from airports, 159, 161–162; scenic route #69, 43; tours, 45–46, 124. See also specific destinations

Business hours: 1073–1074

Butterfly Exhibit (Hunawihr): 984

C

Cabs: See Taxis

Caen: 297–301

Caen Memorial Museum: 297–300

Cafés (brasseries): 1100–1103; tipping, 1078, 1101. See also specific destinations

Café de la Mairie (Paris): 120

Café de la Paix (Paris): 109, 119

Café la Nuit (Arles): 592

Cahors: 514–515; market, 447

Calvados: 206, 229, 248–249, 280–281, 285

Calvet Museum (Avignon): 619

Camargue Museum: 597

Camargue, the: 596–598; map, 597

Camembert cheese: 207, 663, 1097

Campervan rentals: 1130

Camping (campgrounds): overview, 1093

Canadian Cemetery (Juno Beach): 297

Canadian D-Day sites: 295–297

Canal de Bourgogne: 883

Canal du Midi (Carcassonne): 545

Canauxrama (Paris): 47

Cancale: 351, 352

Candes-St-Martin: 423–424

Cannes Film Festival: 678, 711, 1140

Canoeing: Amboise, 368; Chinon, 416, 423–424; Dinan, 328; Dordogne River, 443, 462–465; Loire River, 416, 423–424; Pont du Gard, 629

Cap d’Antibes: 765, 768, 770–771

Cap Ferrat: 734, 740–744; cruises, 692–693, 734; map, 741

Cap Fréhel: 350–351

Carcassonne: 533–551; eating, 549–550; helpful hints, 535, 538; maps, 536–537, 540, 552; nightlife, 545–546; self-guided walk, 538–543; sights/activities, 538–545; sleeping, 546–549; tourist information, 534; transportation, 534–535, 550–551

Carcassonne Walls: 539, 541–542, 544

Carennac: 500, 502

Car insurance: 1129–1130

Car leasing: 1130

Carnavalet Museum (Paris): 49, 111, 148

Carnegie Library (Reims): 1029

Carnival (Nice): 678, 711, 1139

Car rentals: 25, 1127–1129. See also specific destinations

Carrières de Lumières (Les Baux): 635

Car travel (driving): 1132–1135; best three-week trip, 20–21; distances and time, 1129; driving tips, 1134–1135; navigation options, 1130, 1132; Paris, 167–168; road signs, 1131, 1132. See also specific destinations

Casinos: Chamonix, 813; Monte Carlo, 757–759; Nice, 696

Castelnau-Bretenoux Château: 502

Castelnaud: 462, 463, 464, 470–471; sleeping, 471

Castelnaud Château: 470–471

Castelnau-de-Montmiral: 533

Castle Hill (Nice): 692, 698, 709–710

Castles: See Châteaux

Catacombs of Paris: 102–103

Cathars: overview, 524

Cathédrale de Monaco: 756

Cathédrale Notre-Dame: See Notre-Dame Cathedral

Cathédrale Russe (Nice): 692, 708–709

Caunes-Minervois: 548–549; cooking classes, 538; sleeping, 549

Caussade: 531

Cavaillon melons: 576

Cave art: See Cro-Magnon caves

Caveau de Puligny-Montrachet: 871, 875–876

Caveau des Vignerons (Amboise): 375

Caveau des Vignerons (Morey-St-Denis): 882

Caves Plouzeau (Chinon): 422

Cell (mobile) phones: 1113–1115. See also Apps

Cénac: 465; market, 447

Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Lyon): 934–935

Centre International du Vitrail (Chartres): 194–195

Centre Pompidou (Paris): 49, 112–113; sleeping near, 136–137

Ceramics, Museum of (Rouen): 224

Céret: 564–565

Cernay: 982

Cézanne, Paul: 86–87, 106, 619, 932

Chagall, Marc: 561, 564–565, 684, 776, 778, 1035; gravesite, in St-Paul-de-Vence, 776; Museum (Nice), 692, 704–705

Chagny: 872, 877

Chalet de la Floria (Alps): 830–831

Chambolle-Musigny: 882

Chambord Château: 360, 404–409; map, 406

Chamonix: 802–841; at a glance, 811, 823; eating, 838–840; helpful hints, 805, 808; hiking, 823–833; maps, 806–807, 809, 815, 826–827; planning tips, 802–803; self-guided walk, 811–814; sights/activities, 811–834; sleeping, 835–838; tourist information, 803; transportation, 803–805, 808–811, 840–841

Chamonix City Hall: 811

Chamonix Protestant Church: 813–814

Champagne: 1018, 1035–1044, 1113; about, 1037

Champagne G. Tribaut (Hautvillers): 1042–1043

Champagne Herbert Beaufort (Bouzy): 1042

Champagne region: 1018–1046; cuisine, 1019; maps, 1020–1021, 1041; planning tips, 1018; transportation, 1018–1019

Champ de Mars (Paris): 94, 128

Champlain, Samuel de: 228

Champs-Elysées (Paris): 34–35, 48, 103–104, 123; map, 104–105

Changing of the Guard (Monaco): 753, 755

Chapelle Cocteau (Villefranche): 732

Chapelle du Rosaire (Vence): 779–780

Chapelle et Phare de la Garoupe (Antibes): 770

Chapel of Penitents (Les Baux): 635

Chapel of St. Leo IX (Eguisheim): 987–988

Chapel of St. Pierre (Villefranche): 732

Chapel of the Rosary (Vence): 779–780

Charlemagne: 217, 516, 533, 539, 922, 1061

Charles de Cazanove (Reims): 1036

Charles de Gaulle Airport (Paris): 157–160, 162; map, 158; sleeping, 138

Chartres: 186–195; map, 188–189; sight, 187–195; tourist information, 187

Chartres Cathedral: 186, 187–194; map, 191

Chassagne-Montrachet: 876

Châteauneuf-en-Auxois: 883–884, 891

Châteaux (castles): architecture, 1067; history, 376–377; Amboise, 360–361, 371–372, 374; Annecy, 792–793, 800; Arpentis, 381; Azay-le-Rideau, 361, 427–429; Beynac, 472–474; Blois, 360, 398–400; Castelnau-Bretenoux, 502; Castelnaud, 470–471; Chambord, 360, 404–409; Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, 883–884; Chaumont-sur-Loire, 360, 412–415; Chenonceau, 360, 388–394; Cheverny, 360, 409–411; Chinon, 420–422; Clos de Vougeot, 881; Clos-Lucé (Amboise), 361, 372–374; Collioure, 561; Comtal (Carcassonne), 543, 544–545; Eza, 746–747; Fayrac, 464; Grimaldi (Antibes), 767; Guédelon, 897–898; Hautes Corbières, 551–553; Haut-Kœnigsbourg, 984–985; Husseren Les Cinq, 990; Langeais, 361, 430–433; La Rochepot, 876–877; Lastours, 554–555; Montfort, 462; Nazelles, 381; Perreux, 380–381; Peyrepertuse, 553–554; Pray, 380, 384; Quéribus, 554; Rivau, 424, 425; Rocamadour, 507; Savigny, 873–874, 880; Ussé, 424; Villandry, 361, 433–435; Villeneuve (Vence), 779. See also Versailles Château

Chaumont-sur-Loire Château: 360, 412–415

Cheeses: 153, 207, 344, 363, 445, 576, 784, 845, 910, 1019, 1097, 1108

Chemin de la Croix (Rocamadour): 503, 507, 508, 509

Chemin des Douaniers (Villefranche): 733

Chemin des Fontaines (St-Cirq Lapopie): 654

Chemins de Lumières Light Show (Beaune): 858

Chénas: 944

Chenonceau Château: 360, 388–394

Chenonceaux: 355, 388–395; map, 390

Cher River: 359, 388

Cheverny Château: 360, 409–411

Child, Julia: 215, 226

Chinon: 355, 416–427; eating, 426; helpful hints, 416–417; maps, 418–419, 430–431; nightlife, 424; self-guided walk, 417–420; sights/activities, 417–424; sleeping, 425–426; tourist information, 416; transportation, 426–427

Chinon Château: 420–422

Chinon Town Museum: 420

Chiroubles: 944

Chisseaux: eating, 395

Chocolat (movie): 885, 887

Chocolate: 119, 215, 370, 590, 700, 870, 887, 1109

Chocolates: 887

Christmas markets: 1141; Annecy, 785; Strasbourg, 1014

Churches (eglises): architecture, 1066. See also specific churches

Church of the Holy Cross (Kaysersberg): 995

Church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes): 767

Cimetière du Père Lachaise (Paris): 49, 113–114

Citadelle Souterraine (Verdun): 1048

Classical theaters: See Théâtre Antique

Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 28, 1137

Climate: 19, 22, 1146

Clos de Vougeot Château: 881

Clos Les Teurons (Beaune): 860

Clos-Lucé Château (Amboise): 361, 372–374

Clothing sizes: 1145

Cluny: 904–908

Cluny Abbey: 842, 904, 905–907

Cluny Museum (Paris): 49, 66, 97, 100

Cluny Museum of Art and Archaeology: 905

Cocteau (Jean) Chapel (Villefranche): 732

Coffee: 1111–1112

Col de Balme: 832

Col de Banyuls: 564

Col de la Chaîne Mountain Pass: 662

Col de la Forclaz: 798

Collection Lambert (Avignon): 619

Collégiale Notre-Dame (Beaune): 857

Colleville-sur-Mer: 277

Colline du Château (Nice): 692, 698, 709–710

Collioure: 556–568; eating, 566–568; helpful hints, 558–560; map, 558–559; nightlife, 562–563; planning tips, 557; sights/activities, 560–565; sleeping, 565–566; tourist information, 557; transportation, 557–558, 568

Collioure Royal Castle (Château): 561

Collioure Stone Windmill: 563

Colmar: 950–975; eating, 973–975; helpful hints, 954–955; maps, 952–953, 957; nightlife, 971; self-guided walk, 956–963; sights/activities, 956–971; sleeping, 972–973; tourist information, 950–951; tours, 954–956; transportation, 951, 954, 975

Colmar Dominican Church: 962–963, 968–969

Colmar Old Town: See Old Town

“Colmar Pocket” Museum (Turckheim): 983

Comtal Château (Carcassonne): 543, 544–545

Conciergerie (Paris): 69–70

Concoeur: 881

Confit de canard: 140, 363, 444–446, 1107

Confluence (Lyon): 933–934

Conservatoire de Dentelles (Bayeux): 254

Consulates: 1072–1073

Cooking classes: Carcassonne, 538; Nice, 693; Paris, 152–153; Sarlat, 451

Cordes-sur-Ciel: 531

Côte d’Azur: See Riviera; and specific destinations

Côte de Grâce (Honfleur): 238

Côte d’Emeraude: 348–352

Côtes du Rhône: 647–664

Côtes du Rhône Wine Road: 571, 658–664; guided tours, 573–575, 648; map, 659

Cougnac Cave: 482–483, 494–495

Courbet, Gustave: 84

Courses camarguaises, in Arles: 598–599

Courseulles-sur-Mer: 296–297

Cours Jean Jaurès (Avignon): 606

Cours Saleya (Nice): 697, 701–702, 718

Cousteau Aquarium (Monaco): 756–757

Couttet Park (Chamonix): 813

Covid-19 vaccination requirements: 1071

Crayon (Lyon): 923

Créancey: 891

Credit cards: 28, 1074–1078, 1130

Crêpes: about, 1100

Crépon: sleeping, 273

Crestet: 654, 661–662

Crockpots (baeckeoffe), about: 949

Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 916, 920, 932–933

Cro-Magnon caves: 440, 475–495; at a glance, 482–483; guided tours, 443–444, 484; helpful hints, 484; map, 478–479; overview, 475–477, 480–481; planning tips, 481–484; reservations, 484

Crown of Thorns: 61–62, 68

Cryptoporticos (Arles): 588

Cryptoportique (Reims): 1029–1030

Crystal Museum Center (Chamonix): 834

Cuisine: 7–8, 1105–1109; Alsace, 949; Brittany, 324; Burgundy, 844–845; Champagne region, 1019; Dordogne, 444–447; Languedoc-Roussillon, 518–519; Loire Valley, 362–363; Lyon, 910, 938–939; Normandy, 206–207, 318; picnics, 1095–1110; Provence, 576–577; Reims, 1019; Riviera, 684–685; Savoie, 784; to-go foods, 1098–1100

Curie, Marie: 102

Currency and exchange: 1075

Customs House (Colmar): 956

Customs regulations: 1079–1080

Cycling: See Biking

D

Daladier Bridge (Avignon): 611

Dalí (Salvador) Theater-Museum (Figueres): 564

Daumier, Honoré: 84

David, Jacques-Louis: 79, 619

Da Vinci Code: 894

Da Vinci, Leonardo: 78, 364, 370, 371, 372–374, 376; Mona Lisa, 78–79

D-Day beaches (Normandy): 203, 260–301; American sites, 274–295; Canadian sites, 295–297; helpful hints, 267–268; history timeline, 264–265; map, 262–263; planning tips, 261–262; tours, 206, 249, 259–260, 264–267; from Paris, 52–53, 262; transportation, 262–267

D-Day Experience (Utah Beach): 295

D-Day Landing Museum (Arromanches): 271–272

Dead Man’s Corner (Utah Beach): 295

Debit cards: 28, 1074–1078

Degas, Edgar: 86, 97, 106, 223, 619

De Gaulle Airport (Paris): See Charles de Gaulle Airport

De Gaulle, Charles: 96, 105, 253, 255, 297, 299

Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 85

Delacroix, Eugène: 80, 101, 223, 254

Dentelles de Montmirail: 662

Department stores, in Paris: 117–118, 120

Deportation Memorial (Paris): 63–64

Deux Chevaux Car Tours (Paris): 124

Dietary restrictions: 1102

Dinan: 324–338; eating, 336–337; helpful hints, 327–328; map, 326–327; nightlife, 337; self-guided walk, 328–332; sights/activities, 328–335; sleeping, 335–336; tourist information, 325; transportation, 325–327, 338

Dinan Clock Tower: 329

Dinan Old Port: 332–333, 334, 337

Dinan Ramparts: 332

Dinard: 344–345

Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations

Discounts: See Money-saving tips

Dizy: 1042

Doerr, Anthony: 339, 1142

Dolder Museum (Riquewihr): 1000

Domaine Comte Senard (Aloxe-Corton): 873, 879

Domaine de Balme (Alps): 832–833

Domaine de Cassan Winery: 662–663

Domaine de Coyeux Winery: 663

Domaine de la Chevalerie (Chinon): 423

Domaine de la Giraudière (Villandry): 426, 435

Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles): 170, 173, 183–185; map, 184

Domaine de Mourchon Winery: 661

Domaine Ernest Burn (Gueberschwihr): 982

Domaine Lejeune (Pommard): 870

Domaines d’Aloxe-Corton: 872, 879

Dominican Church (Colmar): 962–963, 968–969

Domme: 462, 466–467; market, 447, 466

Dordogne: 14, 439–515; at a glance, 440; cuisine, 444–447; as home base, 441; maps, 442, 501; markets, 447; planning tips, 439–441; tours, 443–444; transportation, 442–443. See also specific destinations

Dordogne River: 439, 460; canoeing, 443, 462–465; cruises, 469, 474; map, 464–465

Dordogne River Valley: 440, 460–475

Douaumont Ossuary (Verdun): 1055–1056

Dried sausages (saucissons secs): 446, 1097

Driving: See Car travel; and specific destinations

Ducal Palace (Nice): 701

Duclair: 224

Duingt: 796

Dumas, Alexandre: 102

Dunes de Chevrêts: 352

E

Eastern Dordogne: 440, 500–512; map, 501

Eating: 1093–1109; budget tips, 26; restaurant phrases, 1156; restaurant pricing, 1094; tipping, 1078, 1101. See also Cuisine; Markets; and specific destinations

Ecomuseum of Ochre (Roussillon): 670

Economy: 1060, 1069–1070

Eglise de Carsac: 461

Eglise des Dominicains (Colmar): 962–963, 968–969

Eglise Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 213–215

Eglise St-Jacques (Nice): 702

Eglise St-Pierre (Mont St-Michel): 310

Eglise Ste. Catherine (Honfleur): 234–235

Eglise St. Salvi et Cloître (Albi): 528

Egouts de Paris: 94

Eguisheim: 985–991; map, 988–989

Eguisheim Castle: 987–988

Eiffel Tower (Paris): 48, 90–94, 123; tickets, 27, 90–91

Eiffel Tower neighborhood (Paris): 35, 90–97; eating, 144–145; map, 92–93

Eleanor of Aquitaine: 416, 421, 436, 900

Electricity: 1074

Embassies: 1072–1073

Emerald Coast: 348–352

Emergencies: 1072; Paris, 37

Englesqueville la Percée: 284

Environmental footprint (going green): 1074

Epernay: 1043–1044

Espace Notre-Dame (Paris): 48, 57

Espace Tairraz (Chamonix): 834

Espace Van Gogh Easel (Arles): 590–591

Etang de Vaccarès: 597–598

Etape Gourmande (Villandry): 426, 435

ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization): 27, 1071–1072

Etrétat: 239–240

Euro currency: 1075

Eurostar: 167, 1123

Exchange rate: 1075

Eza Château: 746–747

Eze-Bord-de-Mer: 745, 748

Eze Church: 747

Eze-le-Village: 745–748

F

Faience: 220–221, 224

Falafel Row (Paris): 150

Fat Tire Tours (Paris): 45, 50–51

Fauchon (Paris): 119

Fauvism: 561–562

Fayencerie Augy (Rouen): 220–221

Fayrac Château: 464

Festivals: 1139–1141. See also specific festivals

Figueres: 564

Films, recommended: 1143–1144

Flag, French: 1060

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain: 885–887, 891

Fleurie: 944

Fleury, Destroyed Village of: 1054–1055

Flower markets: Nice, 701; Paris, 69

Foie gras: 444–447, 454, 461, 529, 949, 1019; about, 472–473, 1106

Fondation Maeght (St-Paul-de-Vence): 776–777

Fondation Van Gogh (Arles): 591

Font-de-Gaume Cave: 482, 487–488

Fontenay Abbey (Burgundy): 887–889

Fontevraud Modern Art Museum: 437

Fontevraud Royal Abbey: 361, 435–437

Fontvieille: sleeping, 600

Fontvieille (Monaco): 748, 755–756

Food: See Cheeses; Chocolate; Cooking classes; Cuisine; Dried sausages; Eating; Foie gras; Markets; Olive oil; Truffles

Food allergies: 1102

Food tours: Avignon, 611; Nice, 693; Paris, 152

Fort Carré (Antibes): 765, 769

Fort de Douaumont (Verdun): 1057

Fort du Petit Bé (St-Malo): 343

Forteresse Royale de Chinon: 420–422

Fort la Latte: 349–350

Fort St. Elme (Collioure): 563

Forum Square (Arles): See Place du Forum

Foucault pendulum: 101

Fougères: 353

Fourvière Hill (Lyon): 914, 921–926

Fragonard Perfume Factory (Eze): 747

Frank Gehry Tower (Arles): 596

French Alps: See Alps

French attitude: 30

French language: See Language

French Riviera: See Riviera

French Riviera Pass: 677–678

Fuissé: 945

Funiculars: See Gondolas, in Chamonix

G

Gadagne Museums (Lyon): 930

Galamus Gorges: 551

Galerie Mario Colonel (Chamonix): 834

Galeries Lafayette (Paris): 118, 122

Galland (Amboise): 365

Gare d’Austerlitz (Paris): 166–167

Gare de Bercy (Paris): 167

Gare de l’Est (Paris): 165–166

Gare de Lyon (Paris): 157, 165

Gare du Nord (Paris): 164

Gare Montparnasse (Paris): 164–165

Gare St. Lazare (Paris): 166

Garibaldi, Giuseppe: 710

Garnier Opera (Paris): 49, 107–109, 122–123

Gauguin, Paul: 88, 97, 932

Gauls: 652, 842, 884–885, 891, 911, 923–926, 1059; about, 886

Gay nightlife, in Paris: 134

Gehry (Frank) Tower (Arles): 596

Génépi: 808

Geneva Airport: 788, 805, 841

Géricault, Théodore: 80, 223, 254, 619

German Military Cemeteries (Normandy): 287–288, 315

German Military Cemetery (Bergheim): 1003

Gevrey-Chambertin: 882–883

Gigondas: 663–664

Gîtes: overview, 1090–1091

Giverny: 195–201; eating, 200–201; guided tours, 52–53; map, 196; sleeping, 200

Glaciorium (Alps): 822

Glanum (St-Rémy): 639–640

“Golden Beach” (Omaha Beach): 283

Gondolas, in Chamonix: 808–809, 810, 814–819, 822–823; maps, 809, 815

Gordes: 671, 672–673

Gorges de Galamus: 551

Gouffre de Padirac: 510–511

Government: 1060, 1069–1070

Gramat: 502

Grand Allée des Promenades (Reims): 1026

Grand Balcon Nord (Alps): 824–825

Grand Balcon Sud (Alps): 810, 825, 828–829

Grande Corniche: 738–739

Grand Prix of Monaco: 678, 711, 748, 753, 754, 1140

Grand Rue (Bergheim): 1002–1003

Grand Rue (Colmar): 960–961

Grand Rue (Eguisheim): 986–987

Grand Rue (Mont St-Michel): 302, 308–310

Grand Rue (Ribeauvillé): 984

Grimaldi Château (Antibes): 767

Gros Horloge (Rouen): 216

Grotte de Font-de-Gaume: 482, 487–488

Grotte de Rouffignac: 482, 492–494

Grotte du Pech Merle: 483, 514

Grotte Préhistorique des Merveilles: 507

Grottes de Cougnac: 482–483, 494–495

Grünewald, Matthias, Isenheim Altarpiece: 965–967

Gueberschwihr: 982

Guédelon Château: 897–898

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1137; updates, 29, 1136

Guy de Chassey (Louvois): 1040–1041

H

Half-timbered houses of Alsace: 959, 960, 961, 998, 1002–1003

Halles Boulingrin Market (Reims): 1030, 1045

Hamlet (Versailles): 185

Hanggliding: 798, 833

Hartmannswillerkopf (Cernay): 982

Haussmann, Baron Georges-Eugène: 108

Hautes Corbières Château: 551–553

Haut-Kœnigsbourg Château: 984–985

Hautvillers: 1042–1043

Helbronner: 808, 814, 818, 834–835

Henri de Villamont (Savigny): 873, 880

Hermès (Paris): 120

Heurtault Tower (Amboise): 372

High Corniche: 738–739

Hiking (walking): Albi, 528; Alet, 345; Alsace, 981–982; Annecy, 796–797; Antibes, 770–771; Avignon, 614; Bayeux, 254; Beaune, 859–860; Beynac, 472–474; Bourges, 902–903; Burgundy, 859–860, 869; Cap Ferrat, 744; Cap Fréhel, 350–351; Carcassonne, 544–545; Chamonix, 823–833; map, 826–827; Collioure, 561–562, 563–565; Dinan, 332–333; Duingt, 796; Eguisheim, 986–988; Eze, 746–747, 748; Fort la Latte, 349–350; Giverny, 197; Honfleur, 238–239; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 667–668; Kaysersberg, 996–997; Lastours, 555; Mont St-Michel, 308–310; Nice, 690; Omaha Beach, 281–284; Pont du Gard, 628–631; Rance River Valley, 333–335; Ribeauvillé, 984; Riquewihr, 996–997, 998–1001; Roussillon, 669–670; St-Malo, 344; Vaison-la-Romaine, 654; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 690, 733–734

Hill towns of the Luberon: 571, 664–674; map, 666–667

Historial Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 220

History: 1059–1069; timeline, 1064–1065

Holidays: 1139–1141

Holocaust Memorial (Paris): 112

Honfleur: 203, 228–244; eating, 242–244; helpful hints, 229, 232; map, 230–231; nightlife, 240; self-guided walk, 232–234; sights/activities, 232–240; sleeping, 240–242; tourist information, 228–229; transportation, 229, 244

Honfleur Jetty/Park: 238–239

Horse and Bird of Prey Show (Chambord): 406

Horse-drawn carriage rides: 538, 955

Hospices de Beaune: 853–857

Hospitals: 1072; Paris, 37

Hostels (auberge de jeunesse): overview, 1093. See also specific destinations

Hot-air ballooning: 362, 444, 469

Hotels: glossary of terms, 1088; modern chains, 1089; overview, 1084–1089; rates and deals, 1083–1084; reservations, 1090–1091. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations

Hotel barges, overview: 1092–1093

Hôtel de la Cité (Carcassonne): 542–543, 545

Hôtel Dieu des Hospices de Beaune: 853–857

Hôtel l’Aiguille du Midi (Alps): 837–838

Hôtel La Mirande (Avignon): 616, 621, 624

Hôtel Negresco (Nice): 694, 711, 713

Houdini, Harry (Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin): 400

House of Etienne de la Boëtie (Sarlat): 451–452

“House of Heads” (Colmar): 963

House of Magic (Blois): 400

Hugo, Victor: 102, 108, 145, 314, 377; House (Paris), 110

Huisnes-sur-Mer: 315

Hunawihr: 983–984

Hundred Years’ War: 213

Hurepel de Minerve: 555

Husseren Les Cinq Château: 990

I

Ile Besnard: 352

Ile de la Cité (Paris): 34, 56–62; eating, 153–154; map, 58–59

Ile St. Louis (Paris): 49, 62–64, 123; eating, 151–153; map, 58–59; sleeping, 137–138

Ill River: 1012, 1013; cruises, 1014

Illuminated Lyon: 915, 937

Impressionism: 85–87, 89–90, 96–97, 106, 195, 198–199, 228, 233. See also specific artists

Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique: 79–80, 83–84, 223

Institute of Oceanography (Villefranche): 733

International Center for Cave Art (Lascaux): 482, 490–492

International Stained Glass Center (Chartres): 194–195

Internet security: 1116

Isenheim Altarpiece (Grünewald): 965–967

Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: 665–669

Italy: 834–835; gondola to, 814–819, 834–835

J

Janmot, Louis: 932

Jardin Anglais (Dinan): 328

Jardin de la Paix (Cape Ferrat): 744

Jardin des Papillons (Hunawihr): 984

Jardin d’Eté (Arles): 587

Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris): 101

Jardin du Rocher des Doms (Avignon): 613–614

Jardin Exotique d’Eze: 747

Jardins de Saint-Martin (Monaco): 756

Jazz clubs, in Paris: 121

Jewish Art and History Museum (Paris): 111–112

Jewish Ghetto (Nice): 703

Jewish Quarter (Paris): 111–112; eating, 149–150

Joan of Arc: 62, 101, 208, 213–215, 218, 224, 309, 376, 416, 420, 421–422, 903, 922–923, 1028, 1033, 1035, 1061; biographical sketch, 214; Museum (Rouen), 220

Joan of Arc Church (Rouen): 213–215

Joan of Arc Tower (Rouen): 224

John, Elton: 692–693

Joucas: 670, 671–672; sleeping, 671–672

Juliénas: 944

Julien Bridge: 674

Jumièges Abbey: 224–225

Juno Beach: 295–297; map, 262–263

Juno Beach Centre (Courseulles): 295–297

K

Kayaking: See Canoeing

Kaysersberg: 983, 992–998; map, 993

Kaysersberg City Hall: 992

Kaysersberg History Museum: 995

Kaysersberg’s Bridge: 996

Keratry Mansion (Dinan): 329

Kientzheim: 997, 1001

Koïfhus (Colmar): 956

L

La Basoche (Lyon): 929

La Belle Iloise (Dinan): 330, 331

La Cambe: 287

La Capelière: 597–598

La Cave Voltaire (Chinon): 422

Lac Blanc (Alps): 810, 830

Lace Conservatory (Bayeux): 254

La Cité (Carcassonne): 534, 539–543; eating, 549–550; map, 540; sleeping, 546–547

La Cité Médiévale (Rocamadour): 503–504, 511

La Cité Religieuse (Rocamadour): 503, 507–510

La Cohue (Dinan): 331

La Condamine (Monaco): 749

La Confluence (Lyon): 933–934

Lacoste: 673–674

La Craquanterie (Dinan): 329

La Croix de Lorraine: 297

La Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 916, 920, 932–933

La Digue de la Mer: 598

Ladurée (Paris): 119

Lady and the Unicorn tapestries: 49, 97, 100

La Ferme de la Sapinière (Omaha Beach): 280–281

La Flégère Lift (Alps): 810, 822–823, 830

La Fontaine Roesselmann (Colmar): 960

La Lieutenance (Honfleur): 232

La Maison des Climats (Beaune): 848, 858–859

La Maison du Chocolat (Paris): 120

Langeais Château: 361, 430–433

Langrolay: sleeping, 336

Language: barrier and French attitude, 30; coffee and tea lingo, 1109; hotel lingo, 1088; online translation tip, 1074; Paris Métro, 40; picnic terms, 1096; pronunciation guide, 1149–1153; restaurant phrases, 1156; road signs, 1131; survival phrases, 1155; train terms, 1124; wine lingo, 1111, 1113

Languedoc-Roussillon: 15, 516–568; cuisine, 518–519; map, 517; planning tips, 517–518; transportation, 518. See also specific destinations

Lantern of the Dead (Sarlat): 452

La Petite France (Strasbourg): 1015

La Rochepot Château: 876–877

La Roque-Gageac: 462, 465, 467–470

La Roque St-Christophe: 483, 489–490

La Route des Anciennes Abbayes: 224–225

La Route Napoléon: 678

La Salle, René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de: 217

Lascaux: 482, 490–492

Lascaux Centre International de l’Art Pariétal: 482, 490–492

Lastours Châteaux: 554–555

Latin Quarter (Paris): 65–66

La Tour de Faure: 103, 514

La Tour Eiffel (Paris): 48, 90–94, 123; tickets, 27, 90–91

La Tour Métallique (Lyon): 920

La Turbie: 738–739

La Villasse Ruins (Vaison): 652–653

Le Bassin (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 667–668

Lebrec Calvados (Omaha Beach): 285

Le Brévent Gondola (Alps): 808–810, 822, 830

Le Bugue: market, 447

Le Caveau des Musignys: 882

Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Manet): 85

Left Bank (Paris): 35, 97–103; eating, 154–156; guided tours, 47, 50; maps, 98–99, 155; shopping, 119–120

Léhon: 333, 337

Le Mans Auto Race: 1140

Le Mémorial de Caen: 297–300

Le Mistral: 577

Le Mulet (Chamonix): 811

Le Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 619

Leonardo da Vinci Park (Amboise): 372–374

Le Parc Mini-Châteaux (Amboise): 374

Le Petit Musée de Guignol (Lyon): 930

Le Saut aux Loups: 438

Les Baux: 571, 631–636; map, 633

Les Baux Castle Ruins: 631, 632, 634–635

Les Bossons: sleeping, 837–838

Les Chemins de Lumières Light Show (Beaune): 858

Les Egouts de Paris: 94

Le Semnoz: 793, 798

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac: 483, 484–495; caves near, 487–495; market, 447; sleeping, 487

Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (Versailles): 176–177

Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes (Versailles): 123, 177

Les Grands Montets: 819, 832

Les Halles (Avignon): 617–618

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse: 916, 943

Les Houches: 830–831, 832; skiing, 832

Les Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 916, 924, 1140

Les Praz: 822–823, 825, 828, 831

Les Rochers Sculptés (Rothéneuf): 351

Le Trophée des Alpes: 739

L’Hospitalet (Rocamadour): 503, 506–507, 510–511

Libération Market (Nice): 710

Liberty Leading the People (Delacroix): 80

Liberty Tree (Bayeux): 253

Ligré: sleeping, 426

Limeray: sleeping, 382

L’Index Lift (Alps): 822–823, 830

L’Officiel des Spectacles: 36, 121

Loire River: 354; biking along, 359–360, 374–375, 398, 401; canoeing, 416; home base, 355

Loire Valley: 12, 354–438; châteaux at a glance, 360–361; châteaux history, 376–377; cuisine, 362–363; map, 356–357; planning tips, 355–358; tours, 360–362; from Paris, 52–53; transportation, 358–360; wines, 363, 375, 378, 411, 420, 422–423. See also specific destinations

London: train travel, 167

Longest Day, The (movie): 268, 289, 293, 1144

Longues-sur-Mer Gun Battery: 275–277

L’Orangerie (Paris): 48, 89–90

L’Ossuaire de Douaumont (Verdun): 1055–1056

Lot River Valley: 440, 512–515; map, 501

Loubressac: 502

Louis Vuitton (Paris): 104

Louis XIV (Sun King): Versailles, 177–181

Louvois: 1040–1041

Louvre Museum (Paris): 48, 72–81; map, 73; self-guided tour, 76–81

Low Corniche: 738–739

Lower Town (Les Baux): 635–636

Luberon hill towns: 571, 664–674; map, 666–667

Lugdunum Gallo-Roman Museum (Lyon): 917, 923–926

Luges: 798, 833

LUMA Arles: 596

Lumière Museum (Lyon): 917, 935–936

Luncheon on the Grass (Manet): 85

Luxembourg Garden (Paris): 101

Lyon: 16, 909–944; at a glance, 917; arrival in, 914–915; cuisine, 910, 938–939; eating, 938–943; helpful hints, 915–916; maps, 912–913, 928, 940–941; nightlife, 936–937; orientation, 911, 914; planning tips, 909–910; shopping, 932; sights/activities, 919–936; sleeping, 937–938; tourist information, 914; tours, 918–919; transportation, 914–915, 916–918, 943–944

Lyon Airport: 915

Lyon City Card: 914, 921

Lyon City History Museum: 930

Lyon Museum of Fine Arts: 917, 931–932

Lyon Opera House: 923

Lyon traboules: 917, 926, 929

M

Madeloc Tower: 563–564

Maeght Foundation (St-Paul-de-Vence): 776–777

Magic, House of (Blois): 400

Maginot Monument (Verdun): 1053

Magny-en-Bessin: sleeping, 273

MAHB (Bayeux): 254

Mail: 1115–1116. See also specific destinations

Maison de la Magie (Blois): 400

Maison de la Montagne (Chamonix): 811–812

Maison de la Truffe (Paris): 118

Maison des Climats (Beaune): 848, 858–859

Maison des Têtes (Colmar): 963

Maison du Beurre Bordier (St-Malo): 344

Maison Forte de Reignac: 489

Maison Herzer (Kaysersberg): 995

Maison Pfister (Colmar): 961

Maison Rouge (Chinon): 420

Maisons Satie (Honfleur): 237–238

Malaucène: 662

Manet, Edouard: 84, 85, 97, 619

Manoir de Gisson (Sarlat): 454

Manville Mansion City Hall (Les Baux): 635

Maps: navigation tools, 1080, 1130, 1132. See also Map Index

Marais (Paris): 35, 110–113, 131–137; eating, 145–151; guided tours, 47, 50; maps, 132–133, 146–147; shopping, 119; sleeping, 134–137

Marie-Antoinette: 69, 70, 181, 183–185

Markets: 1098–1099; Albi, 521, 528; Amboise, 365; Annecy, 788; Antibes, 764, 766–767, 773–774; Arles, 579, 598; Avignon, 617–618; Bayeux, 248; Beaune, 848; Bergheim, 1003; Beynac, 447, 472; Blois, 397; Bonnieux, 674; Bourges, 899–900; Carcassonne, 535; Castelnaud, 464; Chamonix, 805; Chartres, 186; Chinon, 416; Cluny, 905; Collioure, 558; Colmar, 954, 958–959; Dinan, 327, 331; Dinard, 345; Domme, 447, 466; Dordogne, 445–447, 447; Honfleur, 229, 233; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 665, 668; Kaysersberg, 997–998; La Roque-Gageac, 467–468; Lyon, 916, 933, 943; Martel, 500; Mortemart, 497; Nice, 697, 701–702, 710, 718; Orange, 642; Paris, 69, 94; Reims, 1030, 1045; Rouen, 212, 222; St-Emilion, 497; St-Rémy-de-Provence, 637; Sarlat, 447, 450, 453–454; Strasbourg, 1014; Vaison-la-Romaine, 649; Vence, 778; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 727

Marmottan Museum (Paris): 49, 96–97

Martel (Reims): 1039

Martel (town): 500

Martigny, Switzerland: 811, 834

Mary Magdalene: 892, 894, 895–896

Masséna Museum (Nice): 708

Massif Fortifié de Souville (Verdun): 1053

Matignon: 349

Matisse, Henri: 90, 113, 528, 561–562, 564–565, 932; Chapel of the Rosary (Vence), 779–780; Museum (Nice), 692, 705–707

Matterhorn: 817, 824

Maussane: 636; eating, 636

Mayle, Peter: 569, 664, 1142

Medical help: 1072; Paris, 37

Medieval Quarter (Bourges): 899, 902–903

Mémorial de Caen: 297–300

Mémorial de la Déportation (Paris): 63–64

Mémorial de la Shoah (Paris): 112

Mémorial de Verdun: 1054

Mémorial 39/45 Museum (Alet): 345

Menthon-St-Bernard: 797

Menton: 748

Mer de Glace (Alps): 810, 819–822, 824–825

Merveilles Cave: 507

Metallic Tower (Lyon): 920

Meter Man (Colmar): 961

Metric system: 1144–1146

Métro (Paris): 39–41, 128, 134; Cité “Metropolitain” stop, 69; tickets, 38–39

Meursault: 870–871, 875; eating, 868, 871

Middle Corniche: 738–739

Minerve: 555–556

Minivan tours: overview, 1127

Miró, Joan: 564–565, 776

Mischief and Mayhem (Aloxe-Corton): 872–873, 879

Mistral, Frédéric: 592

Mistral winds: 577

Mobile phones: 1113–1115. See also Apps

Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Nice): 692, 707

Modern-Art Museum (Céret): 564–565

Moët et Chandon (Epernay): 1043–1044

Monaco: 677, 748–760; eating, 759; helpful hints, 753; map, 750–751; self-guided walk, 754–757; sight/activities, 754–759; sleeping, 759; tourist information, 749; transportation, 752, 753–754, 759–760

Monaco Cathedral: 756

Monaco Grand Prix: 678, 711, 748, 753, 754, 1140

Monaco Philharmonic Orchestra: 753

Monaco-Ville: 749, 754–757, 759

Mona Lisa (da Vinci): 78–79

Monastère St. Paul de Mausole (St-Rémy): 637–639

Monet, Claude: 85–86, 106, 217, 223, 228, 233, 932, 968; Gardens and House (Giverny), 195, 198–199; gravesite, in Giverny, 199; Marmottan Museum (Paris), 49, 96–97; Orangerie Museum (Paris), 48, 89–90

Money: 1074–1080; average daily expenses, 25; budgeting, 25

Money belts: 36, 1077

Money-saving tips: 25–26, 1074; Lyon, 914; Paris, 38–39, 54–55, 139, 172; Riviera, 677–678; sightseeing, 1081; sleeping, 1083–1084; Strasbourg, 1005

Mont-Alban Fort: 734

Montbard: 891–892

Mont Blanc: 782, 802, 812; Tour du Mont Blanc, 810, 828–829

Mont Blanc Automobile Club: 788–789

Mont Blanc Museum (Alps): 834

Monte Carlo: See Monaco

Monte Carlo Ballet: 753

Monte Carlo Casino: 757–759

Montée de la Grande Côte (Lyon): 933

Montenvers: 810, 819–822, 824–825

Montfort: 461–462, 466

Montignac: 490–492; market, 447

Montmartre (Paris): 35, 49, 114–116; eating, 156–157; map, 115

Montmartre Museum (Paris): 116

Montparnasse Tower (Paris): 102

Mont Rouge: 670

Mont St-Michel: 203, 301–320; eating, 318–319; helpful hints, 306–307; maps, 305, 309; sights/activities, 307–315; sleeping, 316–318; tourist information, 303–304; transportation, 301–303, 304–306, 319–320

Mont St-Michel Abbey: 310–315

Mont St-Michel Bay: 303, 307–308

Mont St-Michel Ramparts: 315

Montsec Monument (St-Mihiel): 1058

Mont Ventoux: 614, 647

Monument to Reporters (Bayeux): 255

Monument to the Dying Lion (Verdun): 1053

Morey-St-Denis: 882

Morrison, Jim: 113

Mortemart: 497

Moutarderie Fallot (Beaune): 859

Movies, recommended: 1143–1144

Moyenne Corniche: 738–739

Mumm (Reims): 1036, 1038

Musée Alpin du Mont Blanc (Alps): 834

Musée Angladon (Avignon): 619

Musée Archéologique: See Archaeological museums

Musée Calvet (Avignon): 619

Musée Carnavalet (Paris): 49, 111, 148

Musée-Château d’Annecy: 792–793

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Orange): 646

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Baron Gérard (Bayeux): 254

Musée d’Art et Histoire du Judaïsme (Paris): 111–112

Musée d’Art Moderne de Céret: 564–565

Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Nice): 692, 707

Musée de la Reddition (Reims): 1031

Musée de l’Armée (Paris): 48, 95–96

Musée de l’Orangerie (Paris): 48, 89–90

Musée de Montmartre (Paris): 116

Musée Départemental Arles Antiques: 594–595

Musée des Beaux-Arts: Lyon, 917, 931–932; Nice, 707–708; Paris, 106; Rouen, 222–223; Strasbourg, 1011

Musée des Confluences (Lyon): 934

Musée des Cristaux (Chamonix): 834

Musée d’Ethnographie et d’Art Populaire Normand (Honfleur): 233–234

Musée de Vence: 779

Musée d’Histoire et d’Archéologie (Antibes): 769

Musée d’Orsay (Paris): 48, 81–89; maps, 83, 87; self-guided tour, 82–89

Musée du Débarquement (Arromanches): 271–272

Musée du Débarquement (Utah Beach): 292–293

Musée du Louvre (Paris): 48, 72–81; map, 73; self-guided tour, 76–81

Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon): 613

Musée du Vin de Bourgogne (Beaune): 858

Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 619

Musée Le Carroi (Chinon): 420

Musée le Secq des Tournelles (Rouen): 224

Musée Lumière (Lyon): 917, 935–936

Musée Marmottan Monet (Paris): 49, 96–97

Musée Masséna (Nice): 708

Musée Matisse (Nice): 692, 705–707

Musée Mémorial de la Bataille de Normandie (Bayeux): 255

Musée Mémorial d’Omaha Beach: 281

Musée National d’Art Moderne (Paris): 112–113

Musée National de Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 483, 485–486

Musée National du Moyen Age (Paris): 49, 97, 100

Musée National March Chagall (Nice): 692, 704–705

Musée Océanographique (Monaco): 756–757

Musée Picasso (Antibes): 767, 768–769

Musée Picasso (Paris): 49, 111

Musée Réattu (Arles): 593

Musée Rodin (Paris): 49, 96

Musées Gadagne (Lyon): 930

Musée Toulouse-Lautrec (Albi): 525–528

Musée Yves Brayer (Les Baux): 635

Museon Arlaten (Arles): 593–594

MuséoParc Alésia (Alise-Ste-Reine): 884–885

Museums: sightseeing tips, 1081–1082. See also specific museums

Museum of Annecy: 790–792

Museum of Ceramics (Rouen): 224

Museum of Decorative Arts (Strasbourg): 1011

Museum of Ethnography (Honfleur): 233–234

Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny): 199

Museum of Ironworks (Rouen): 224

Museum of Santons (Les Baux): 635

Museum of the Sea (Honfleur): 233

Museum of the Surrender (Reims): 1031

Museum of the Wine of Burgundy (Beaune): 858

Museum Pass (Paris): 54–55, 56, 172, 173

Mushroom caves: 438

Mustard Mill (Beaune): 859

N

Nançon River: 353

Napoleon Bonaparte: 79, 105–106, 181, 184, 738, 1063; Tomb (Paris), 48, 95–96

Narbonne Gate (Carcassonne): 539

National Guard Memorial (Omaha Beach): 284

National Museum of Prehistory (Les Eyzies): 483, 485–486

NaturOparc (Hunawihr): 984

Nazelles-Négron: sleeping, 381

Nice: 677, 685–725; at a glance, 692; arrival in, 686–687; eating, 715–722; helpful hints, 687, 690; as home base, 675; maps, 688–689, 712, 716–717, 721, 728–729; nightlife, 710–711; self-guided walk, 693–703; shopping, 687; sights/activities, 693–710; sleeping, 711–715; tourist information, 686; tours, 691–693; transportation, 686–687, 690–691, 723–725

Nice Airport: 725; sleeping near, 715

Nice Archaeological Museum: 707

Nice Carnival: 678, 711, 1139

Nice Fine Arts Museum: 707–708

Nice Jazz Festival: 1140

Nice Modern and Contemporary Art Museum: 692, 707

Nice Opera House: 700

Normandy: 12, 202–320; at a glance, 203; cuisine, 206–207, 318; map, 204–205; planning tips, 202–203; tours, 206; transportation, 204–206. See also D-Day beaches

Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 278–280

Normandy Bridge: 233, 239

Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 255

Norman Popular Arts (Honfleur): 233–234

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Chartres): 186, 187–194; map, 191

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Paris): 48, 57, 60–62, 64–65, 123; fire of 2019 and rebuilding, 57; map, 60; virtual tour of interior, 61–62

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Reims): 1028, 1031–1035

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Rouen): 217–220; light show, 212

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Strasbourg): 1008–1011, 1014

Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Lyon): 917, 921–923

Notre-Dame de Grâce Chapel (Honfleur): 238

Notre-Dame de l’Annonciation (Nice): 702

Notre-Dame des Anges (Collioure): 561

Notre-Dame des Anges (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue): 668

Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbey: 673

Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 916, 924, 1140

Nuits-St-Georges: 880

O

Oceanography Museum (Monaco): 756–757

Ochre Cliffs Trail (Roussillon): 670

Ochre Ecomuseum (Roussillon): 670

Old Honfleur: 232–234, 240; map, 230–231

Old Lyon: See Vieux Lyon

Old Market Hall (Colmar): 958–959

Old Nice: See Vieux Nice

Old Town (Colmar): 956–963; eating, 973–974; map, 957; nightlife, 971; sleeping, 972–973

Olive oil: 446–447, 700, 720

Omaha Beach: 274–289; eating, 285, 289; maps, 262–263, 275; sleeping near, 288–289

Omaha Beach Beachfront Drive: 283–284

Omaha Beach Focal Point: 282–284

Omaha Beach Memorial Museum: 281

Omaha Beach Memorial Statues: 283

Opera: Lyon, 923; Nice, 700; Paris, 49, 107–109, 122–123

Opéra Bastille (Paris): 122

Opéra Exhibit (Paris): 84–85

Opéra Garnier (Paris): 49, 107–109, 122–123

Opéra neighborhood (Paris): 35, 106–109; map, 107

Oradour-sur-Glane: 440, 495–497

Orange: 571, 642–647; map, 643

Orangerie Museum (Paris): 48, 89–90

Orange Roman Theater: 644–646

Orches: 877

Orly Airport (Paris): 160–161, 162; sleeping, 138

Orsay Museum (Paris): 48, 81–89; maps, 83, 87; self-guided tour, 82–89

Our Lady of Rocamadour: 507–510

Overlord Museum (Omaha Beach): 280

P

Packing tips and checklist: 28, 1147

Padirac Cave: 510–511

Palace of Justice (Rouen): 216–217

Palace of the Popes (Avignon): 615–616

Palace Square (Avignon): 612–613

Palace Square (Monaco): 754–755

Palais de Justice (Paris): 68–69, 216–217

Palais de la Méditerranée (Nice): 696

Palais de l’Isle (Annecy): 790–791

Palais des Papes (Avignon): 615–616

Palais du Tau (Reims): 1028

Palais Jacques Cœur (Bourges): 903

Palais Jean de Bourbon (Cluny): 905

Palais Princier (Monaco): 755

Palais Rohan (Strasbourg): 1011

Palais Royal (Paris): 81

Panthéon (Paris): 49, 101–102; eating near, 156

Paragliding: 798, 833

Parc de la Bouzaize (Beaune): 859

Parc de la Tete d’Or (Lyon): 916

Parc de Loisirs des Planards (Chamonix): 823, 833

Parc de Merlet (Chamonix): 823

Paris: 12, 33–160; at a glance, 48–49; arrondisements, 34–35; eating, 138–157; entertainment, 121–123; excursion areas, 169–201; helpful hints, 36–38; money-saving tips, 38–39, 54–55, 139, 172; nightlife, 121–125; orientation, 34–35; planning tips, 33–34; self-guided walks, 56–72, 103–104, 118–120; shopping, 117–120; sights, 72–116; sightseeing strategies, 37, 53–55; sleeping, 125–138; tourist information, 35–36; tours, 45–47, 50–53, 124–125; transportation, 38–45, 157–168. See also specific neighborhoods

Paris Catacombs: 102–103

Paris Métro: See Métro

Paris Museum of Fine Arts: 106

Paris Museum Pass: 54–55, 56, 172, 173

Paris Plages: 48, 71–72

Paris Sewer Museum: 94

Paris Voice: 36, 121

Parthenon Friezes: 77

Passage de l’Argue (Lyon): 932

Passports: 27, 1072

Patriarche Père et Fils (Beaune): 861

Pech Merle Cave: 483, 514

Pedestrian safety, in Paris: 37

Penitents Chapel (Les Baux): 635

Père Lachaise Cemetery (Paris): 49, 113–114

Perfume: 117, 590, 747

Périgord-Aventure et Loisirs: 463

Pernand-Vergelesses: 879, 880

Perreux Château: 380–381

Petit Balcon Sud (Alps): 830–831

Petite France (Strasbourg): 1013, 1014, 1015

Petite Venise (Colmar): 959, 971; eating, 974

Petit Palais (Paris): 106

Petit Palais Museum (Avignon): 613

Petit Thouars Château (Chinon): 422–423

Petit train (tourist trains): Albi, 522; Amboise, 368; Avignon, 611–612; Bayeux, 249; Beaune, 852; Carcassonne, 538; Chamonix, 808; Collioure, 559–560; Colmar, 955; Dinan, 328; Eguisheim, 986; Giverny, 197; Honfleur, 229, 232; Nice, 691; Riquewihr, 1001; Rocamadour, 506; Strasbourg, 1007–1008; Vaison-la-Romaine, 650; Versailles, 182

Peyrepertuse Château: 553–554

Pfister House (Colmar): 961

Philip the Fair Tower (Villeneuve): 619–620

Phones: 1113–1115

Piaf, Edith: 113, 732, 1144

Picasso, Pablo: 90, 113, 564–565, 776, 932, 968; Museum (Antibes), 767, 768–769; Museum (Paris), 49, 111

Pickpockets: See Theft alerts

Picnics: 1095–1110; vocabulary, 1096. See also Markets

Pigalle (Paris): 116

Piscine du Centre Sportif Richard Bozon (Chamonix): 823

Place Albert I (Antibes): 761

Place Balmat (Chamonix): 812–813

Place Benjamin Zix (Strasbourg): 1013

Place Billard (Chartres): 186

Place Charles de Gaulle (Bayeux): 253

Place Dauphine (Paris): 70

Place de la Bastille (Paris): 122; eating, 148–149

Place de la Cathédrale (Strasbourg): 1008

Place de la Liberté (Sarlat): 453

Place de la Madeleine (Paris): 109, 118

Place de la Mairie (Roussillon): 670

Place de l’Ancienne Douane (Colmar): 958

Place de la République (Arles): 588

Place de l’Horloge (Avignon): 612

Place de l’Opéra (Paris): 119

Place de République (St-Rémy): 637

Place des Capucins (Lyon): 933

Place des Celestins (Lyon): 937–938

Place des Châtaignes (Avignon): 617

Place des Merciers (Dinan): 330

Place des Oies (Sarlat): 454

Place des Terreaux (Lyon): 930–931, 933

Place des Vosges (Paris): 110; eating, 145, 148; sleeping, 134–136

Place Drouet d’Erlon (Reims): 1026–1027, 1044–1045

Place du Centenaire (Eze): 746

Place du Change (Lyon): 930

Place du Château (Carcassonne): 543

Place du Châteaux Saint-Léon (Eguisheim): 987

Place du Dr. Pierre Walter (Bergheim): 1003

Place du Forum (Arles): 592–593; eating, 604–605

Place du Forum (Reims): 1029–1030; eating, 1045

Place du Général de Gaulle (Chinon): 419–420

Place du Grand Puits (Carcassonne): 543

Place du Guesclin (Dinan): 327–329

Place du Marché Ste. Catherine (Paris), eating: 149

Place du Mont Blanc (Chamonix), market: 805

Place du Palais (Avignon): 612–613

Place du Palais (Monaco): 754–755

Place du Peyrou (Sarlat): 451–452

Place du Trocadéro (Paris): 94, 123

Place du Vieux Marché (Rouen): 212, 213

Place Garibaldi (Nice): 703, 710, 719

Place Général Leclerc (Collioure): 558

Place Jeanne d’Arc (Chinon): 416

Place Lamartine (Arles): 583–584

Place Louis Lépine (Paris): 69

Place Louis XII (Blois): 397

Place Madeleine (Beaune), eating: 867–868

Place Masséna (Nice): 686, 698–699; eating, 720

Place Michel Debré (Amboise): 370

Place Nautique (Lyon): 934

Place Neuve St. Jean (Lyon): 929

Place Notre-Dame (Annecy): 791

Place Rossetti (Nice): 703

Place Ste. Cécile (Albi): 522

Place St. Jean (Carcassonne): 543, 550

Place St. Marc (Rouen): 222; market, 212, 222

Place St. Michel (Paris): 66

Place St. André-des-Arts (Paris): 66

Place St. Patrice (Bayeux): 248, 257

Place Vendôme (Paris): 119

Place Voltaire (Arles): 585

Plage d’Albigny (Annecy): 793

Plage de la Gravette (Antibes): 766, 770

Plage de la Paloma (Cap Ferrat): 744

Plage de la Salis (Antibes): 770

Plage de Passable (Cap Ferrat): 743

Plage de Port d’Avall (Collioure): 562

Plage d’Imperial (Annecy): 793

Plage Municipale de Sevrier (Annecy): 793

Plage St. Vincent (Collioure): 562

Plague Cemetery (Rouen): 221–222

Plan de l’Aiguille (Alps): 810, 818, 821, 824–825, 833, 838

Planpraz (Alps): 810, 822, 825, 828–830

Pléhérel-Plage: 350–351

Ploubalay: 348

Poilâne (Paris): 120

Pointe du Chevet: 349

Pointe du Grouin: 352

Pointe du Hoc: 285–287

Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument: 285–287

Pointe Helbronner: 808, 814, 818, 834–835

Pôle International de la Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 483, 485

Politics: 1069–1070

Pommard: 870

Pompidou Center (Paris): 49, 112–113; sleeping near, 136–137

Pontal d’Entreves: 808, 835

Pont au Double (Paris): 65

Pont Bonaparte (Lyon): 915, 919–920, 934

Pont d’Avignon (pont St. Bénezet): 614–615

Pont de Normandie: 233, 239

Pont des Arts (Paris): 71

Pont de Tancarville: 225

Pont du Corbeau (Strasbourg): 1012

Pont du Gard: 571, 626–631; map, 628

Pont du Gard Museum: 629

Pont Julien: 674

Pont Morens (Annecy): 791

Pont Neuf (Paris): 71

Pontorson: 318; sleeping, 318

Pont St. Louis (Paris): 62

Pont Tournelle (Paris): 63

Pont Valentré (Cahors): 514–515

Pont Vieux (Albi): 528

Pont Vieux (Carcassonne): 534, 545

Population: 1060

Port de Lyvet: 334

Porte d’Aude (Carcassonne): 545

Porte de Dinan (St-Malo): 344

Porte de Mars (Reims): 1030

Porte des Champs Vauverts (St-Malo): 343

Port-en-Bessin: 277

Porte Sainte Anne (Fougères): 353

Porte St. Pierre (St-Malo): 343–344

Porte St. Thomas (St-Malo): 342–343

Port Winston Artificial Harbor (Arromanches): 270–271

Post offices: 1115–1116; Monaco, 753, 757. See also specific destinations

Pouilly-en-Auxois: 891

Pouilly-Fuissé: 871, 945

Pray Château: 380, 384

Prehistoric caves: See Cro-Magnon caves

Prehistory Welcome Center (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac): 483, 485

Presqu’île (Lyon): 914, 930–932; eating, 932, 939, 942; map, 940–941; nightlife, 937; sleeping, 938

Prince of Monaco’s Car Collection (Monaco): 757

Prince’s Palace (Monaco): 755

Printemps (Paris): 118, 119

Printemps de Bourges: 900

Promenade Bords de l’Aure: 254

Promenade des Anglais (Nice): 686, 692, 695–698, 711; eating, 718, 722; map, 688–689; self-guided walk, 693–698; sleeping, 713

Promenade du Moulinet (Dinard): 345

Promenade du Paillon (Nice): 699

Pronunciation guide: 1149–1153

Provence: 14, 569–674; at a glance, 571; cuisine, 576–577; maps, 570, 572; market days, 577; planning tips, 569–571; tours, 573–575; transportation, 571–573. See also specific destinations

Puces St. Ouen (Paris): 36

Puligny-Montrachet: 871–872, 875

Puppets of the World Museum (Lyon): 930

Puycelsi: 531–533

Puymin: 651

Q

Quai de l’Horloge (Paris): 70

Quai des Etats-Unis (Nice): 697

Quai Eustache Chappuis (Annecy): 790

Quai Saint-Etienne (Honfleur): 233

Quartier Latin (Paris): See Latin Quarter

Quéribus: 554

R

Rabanel, Jean-Luc: 590, 601

Rabelais, François: 417–420

Rail passes: 27, 1117, 1120, 1123, 1137

Rail travel: See Train travel

Rance River: 325, 332; canoeing, 328; cruises, 334

Rance River Valley: 333–335

Réattu Museum (Arles): 593

Refuge du Plan de l’Aiguille (Alps): 818, 825, 838

Reims: 16, 1020–1046; champagne, 1035–1044; cuisine, 1019; eating, 1044–1046; helpful hints, 1023; maps, 1020–1021, 1024–1025; planning tips, 1018, 1020–1021; self-guided walk, 1026–1031; sights/activities, 1026–1039; sleeping, 1044; tourist information, 1022; tours, 1023; transportation, 1018–1019, 1022–1023, 1026, 1046

Reims Cathedral: 1028, 1031–1035

Reims City Hall: 1030

Reims Covered Market Hall: 1030

Reims Market Hall: 1045

Renault (Paris): 104

Renoir, Pierre-Auguste: 86, 97, 223, 968

Rental properties: See Apartment rentals

RER (Réseau Express Régionale): 38, 41, 159–162, 170–171

Resistance and Deportation History Center (Lyon): 934–935

Resources from Rick Steves: 1136–1138

Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations

Rhône River: 611, 614–615, 909, 933–934, 944

Rhône Valley: 944–945

Ribeauvillé: 984

Richard the Lionheart: 219, 421, 436, 473, 508, 892

Riquewihr: 983, 997, 998–1001; map, 999

Rivau Château: 424, 425

Riviera: 14, 675–781; at a glance, 677; art scene, 683–684; cuisine, 684–685; helpful hints, 677–678; home base, 675–676; maps, 676, 679; planning tips, 676–677; tours, 683; transportation, 678–683. See also specific destinations

Rocamadour: 503–512; eating, 511–512; helpful hints, 505–506; history of, 508; map, 501, 504–505; sights/activities, 506–511; sleeping, 511; tourist information, 504; transportation, 504–505

Rocamadour Château: 507

Roc de Chère: 797

Rodin, Auguste: 89, 931–932; Museum (Paris), 49, 96

RoissyBus: 159

Roman Bridge (Julien): 674

Roman Bridge (Vaison-la-Romaine): 653

Romanée-Conti (Vosne-Romanée): 881

Roman sites (ancient Romans): 369, 541, 575–576, 738–739, 967, 1059; Alise Ste-Reine, 884–885; Arles, 577–578, 585–586, 587–589, 594–595; Glanum (St-Rémy), 639–640; Lyon, 923–926; Orange, 644–646; Pont du Gard, 626–631; Pont Julien, 674; Reims, 1030; Vaison-la-Romaine, 651–653

Roman theaters: See Théâtre Antique

Roque St-Christophe: 483, 489–490

Rosary, Chapel of the (Vence): 779–780

Rothéneuf: 351

Rouen: 197, 203, 207–228; eating, 226–227; helpful hints, 209, 212; map, 210–211; planning tips, 208; self-guided walk, 212–222; sights/activities, 222–225; sleeping, 225–226; tourist information, 208–209; transportation, 209, 227–228

Rouen Great Clock: 216

Rouen Museum of Fine Arts: 222–223

Rouen Panorama: 216

Rouen Plague Cemetery: 221–222

Rouffignac Cave: 482, 492–494

Rousseau, Jean-Jacques: 102, 393, 790, 1063; biographical sketch, 792

Roussillon: 669–672

Route de la Champagne (Reims): 1039–1043; map, 1041

Route des Anciennes Abbayes: 224–225

Route des Bastides Albigeoises: 530–533

Route des Grands Crus: 874, 880–883; map, 878

Route du Beaujolais: 944

Route du Vin (Alsace): 975–985; map, 977

Route Napoléon: 678

Route of the Ancient Abbeys: 224–225

Route of the Bastides: 530–533

Royal Abbey of Fontevraud: 361, 435–437

Rue Alphonse Karr (Nice): 687

Rue Biscarra (Nice): 720

Rue Cler (Paris): 48, 94, 125, 128; eating, 140–145; maps, 126–127, 142–143; sleeping, 128–131

Rue de Bretagne (Paris): 151

Rue de Dinan (St-Malo): 344

Rue de la Bombarde (Lyon): 929

Rue de la Bûcherie (Paris): 65

Rue de la Cavalerie (Arles): 584

Rue de la Cordonnerie (Dinan): 330–331, 337

Rue de la Monnaie (Lyon): 937

Rue de la Monnaie (Strasbourg): 1013

Rue de la Paix (Paris): 119

Rue de la Pinterie (Fougères): 353

Rue de la Poissonnerie (Nice): 702

Rue de la République (Annecy): 791

Rue de la République (Arles): 590

Rue de la République (Lyon): 932

Rue de la République (Sarlat): 455

Rue de la Salamandre (Sarlat): 452–453

Rue de la Ville (Honfleur): 234

Rue de Lutèce (Paris): 69

Rue des Marchands (Colmar): 956–958, 961

Rue des Petites Boucheries (Honfleur): 234

Rue des Pierres Plantées (Lyon): 933

Rue des Rosiers (Paris): 149–150

Rue des Tables Claudiennes (Lyon): 933

Rue des Teinturiers (Avignon): 618

Rue des Têtes (Colmar): 963

Rue de Talleyrand (Reims): 1027

Rue Droite (Nice): 702–703

Rue du Bœuf (Lyon): 929

Rue du Cloître Notre-Dame (Paris): 62

Rue du Conseil Souverain (Colmar): 971

Rue du Docteur Fanton (Arles): 590–591, 601

Rue du Général de Gaulle (Riquewihr): 998–999

Rue du Jerzual (Dinan): 331

Rue du Maroquin (Strasbourg): 1011

Rue du Rempart (Eguisheim): 986–987

Rue Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 215–216

Rue Mercière (Lyon), eating: 942

Rue Nationale (Amboise): 369–370

Rue Obscure (Villefranche): 732–733

Rue Rabelais (Chinon): 416

Rue Royale (Paris): 119

Rue St. Dominique (Paris), eating: 144–145

Rue St. François de Paule (Nice): 700

Rue St. Honoré (Paris): 119

Rue St. Jean (Lyon): 927, 929

Rue St. Séverin (Paris): 65–66

Rue Victor Hugo (Lyon): 932

Rue Voltaire (Arles): 584–585

Rue Voltaire (Chinon): 420

Russian Cathedral (Nice): 692, 708–709

RV rentals: 1130

Ryes: sleeping, 273