Shopping in Paris

Shopping in chic Paris is altogether tempting—even reluctant shoppers can find good reasons to indulge. Wandering among elegant boutiques provides a break from the heavy halls of the Louvre and, if you approach it right, a little cultural enlightenment.

Even if you don’t intend to buy anything, budget some time for window shopping, or, as the French call it, faire du lèche-vitrines (“window licking”).

Before you enter a Parisian store, remember the following points:

• In small stores, always say, “Bonjour, Madame/Monsieur” when entering. And remember to say, “Au revoir, bonne journée, Madame/Monsieur” when leaving.

• The customer is not always right. In fact, figure the clerk is doing you a favor by waiting on you.

• Except in department stores, it’s not normal for the customer to handle clothing. Ask first before you pick up an item: “Je peux?” (zhuh puh), meaning, “Can I?”

• By law, the price of items in a window display must be visible. It’s often written on a slip of paper set on the floor or framed on the wall and gives a good indication of the shop’s general price range.

• Don’t feel obliged to buy. If a shopkeeper offers assistance, just say, “Je regarde, merci.”

• Saturday afternoons are très busy. Some small stores may not open until 14:00 on Mondays.

• Shops are generally closed on Sunday. Exceptions include the department stores listed below, the Carrousel du Louvre (underground shopping mall at the Louvre with a Printemps department store), and some shops near Sèvres-Babylone. You’ll also find shops open along the Champs-Elysées and in the Marais.

• For information on VAT refunds and customs regulations, see here.

Department Stores (Les Grands Magasins)

Parisian department stores begin with their showy perfume and purse sections, almost always central on the ground floor and worth a visit to see how much space is devoted to these luxuries. Helpful information desks are usually located at the main entrances near the perfume section (with floor plans in English). Stores generally have affordable restaurants (some with view terraces) and a good selection of fairly priced souvenirs and toys. Opening hours are customarily Monday through Saturday from 10:00 to 19:00 or 20:00. The major stores (like those listed here) are open shorter hours on Sundays, and all are jammed on Saturdays.

You’ll find both Galeries Lafayette and Printemps stores in several neighborhoods. The most convenient and most elegant sit side by side behind the Opéra Garnier, complementing that monument’s similar, classy ambience (Mo: Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette, Havre-Caumartin, or Opéra). This branch of Galeries Lafayette is a must-see for its dazzling stained-glass belle époque dome hovering 150 feet overhead and its seventh floor (la terrasse), with a grand, open-air rooftop view of tout Paris, starring the backside of the Opéra Garnier.

Boutique Strolls

Give yourself a vacation from sightseeing by sifting through window displays, pausing at corner cafés, and feeling the rhythm of neighborhood life. Two very different areas to lick some windows are described next: Place de la Madeleine to Place de l’Opéra (near the Opéra Garnier), and Sèvres-Babylone to St. Sulpice (in the Left Bank).

Place de la Madeleine to Place de l’Opéra

The ritzy streets connecting several high-priced squares—Place de la Madeleine, Place de la Concorde, Place Vendôme, and Place de l’Opéra—form a miracle mile of gourmet food shops, glittering jewelry stores, posh hotels, exclusive clothing boutiques, and people who spend more on clothes in one day than I do in a good year. This walk highlights the value Parisians place on outrageously priced products (follow along using the “Opéra Neighborhood” map on here).

Start at Eglise de la Madeleine (Mo: Madeleine). From the Métro stop, we’ll work counterclockwise around Place de la Madeleine. Pass the massive columns of the church and colorful flower stalls to reach the northwest corner of the square, where you’ll find a row of delicacy shops.

Step inside the tiny Maison de la Truffe (#19) to get a whiff of the product—truffles, those prized, dank, and dirty cousins of mushrooms. Check out the tiny jars in the display case. Ponder how something so ugly, smelly, and deformed can cost so much.

Next door, the venerable Mariage Frères (#17) demonstrates how good tea can smell and how beautifully it can be displayed. At Caviar Kaspia (#17) you can add caviar, eel, and vodka to your truffle collection. The caviar from beluga sturgeon in the Caspian Sea sells for up to €12,500 a kilo (that’s about €5,700 a pound—think I’ll pass on that today). Demand for fish eggs must be strong, because a competitor (Café-Caviar Prunier) has opened next door.

Next up is Fauchon Thé et Infusion and Le Grand Café (#11). These vestiges of the once great Fauchon comestibles empire consist of a shoebox-size shop selling fancy teas with the iconic black and pink Fauchon colors and a café serving meals and pastries in its pink-and-black interior.

Cross over Boulevard Malesherbes, then pass the exclusive Lucas Carton restaurant and a stylish whiskey boutique to find Patrick Roger Chocolates (#3). This place is famous for its chocolates, and even more so for M. Roger’s huge, whimsical, 100-pound chocolate sculptures.

Continue on, turning right down Rue Royale. Along this broad boulevard, we trade expensive food for expensive...stuff. There’s Dior, Chanel, and Gucci. Check out Ladurée (#16) for an out-of-this-world pastry break in the busy 19th-century tea salon, or to just pick up some world-famous macarons.

Continue east down Rue St. Honoré, a three-block parade of chic boutiques—L’Oréal cosmetics, Jimmy Choo shoes, Valentino, Versace, and so on. Looking for a €1,000 handbag? This is your spot.

Find the shortcut on the left at #362 or turn left on Rue de Castiglione to reach Place Vendôme. This octagonal square is très elegant—enclosed by symmetrical Mansard buildings around a 150-foot column. On the left side is the original Hôtel Ritz, opened in 1898. The square is known for its upper-crust jewelry and designer stores—Van Cleef & Arpels, Dior, Chanel, Cartier, and others.

Leave Place Vendôme by continuing straight up Rue de la Paix—strolling by still more jewelry, high-priced watches, and crystal—and enter Place de l’Opéra. You’re in the middle of Right Bank glamour. If you’re shopping till you’re dropping, the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps department stores are located a few blocks up Rue Halévy. If you’re exhausted from counting the zeros on price tags, relax with a drink at the venerable Café de la Paix across from the Opéra Garnier. It’s an appropriately elegant—and pricey—way to end this tour.

Sèvres-Babylone to St. Sulpice

This Left Bank shopping stroll runs from the Sèvres-Babylone Métro stop to St. Sulpice Church, near Luxembourg Garden and Boulevard St. Germain, finishing near the Odéon Métro stop. You’ll sample smart clothing boutiques and clever window displays—and be tempted by tasty treats—while enjoying one of Paris’ more attractive and boutique-filled neighborhoods (see the “Left Bank” map on here).

Start at the Sèvres-Babylone Métro stop (take the Métro or bus #87). Directly across from the Métro, you’ll find the Bon Marché, Paris’ oldest and most upscale department store (opened in 1852). From the Bon Marché, start heading down Rue de Sèvres (along the right side). Within a few steps, you’ll find La Maison du Chocolat (#19). What began in the 1970s as a boutique chocolaterie is now a worldwide chain for chocoholics. Be sure to lick the chocolate off your fingers before entering the world of Hermès (#17), famous for its pricey silk scarves.

Almost next door, find Maje, a French store with prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) fashion a notch above mass market. Across the street sits the marvelously old-school Au Sauvignon Café (open daily; 80 Rue des Saint-Pères). Its corner perch is well situated for watching the conveyor belt of smartly coiffed shoppers glide by.

Continue a block farther down Rue de Sèvres to Place Michel Debré, a six-way intersection. From there, boutique-lined streets fan out like spokes on a wheel. Each street merits a peek if shopping matters to you.

Start by making a short detour up Rue du Cherche-Midi, with an ever-changing but always chic selection of shoe, handbag, and clothing stores. Find Paris’ most celebrated bread—beautiful round loaves with designer crust—at the red brick, low-key Poilâne (#8). Look for samples. Parisians love getting their punitions (punishments—buttery shortbread cookies) here.

Now track back and turn right down Rue du Vieux-Colombier. On the next two blocks, you’ll pass many stores that specialize in just one or two items. At Longchamp (#21), you can hunt for a stylish French handbag in any color. If the man or petit-garçon in your life needs a swimsuit, check out Vilebrequin (#5). There’s Aubade (#4) for lingerie and Hervé Chapelier (#1) for travel totes and handbags.

Spill into Place St. Sulpice, with its big, twin-tower church. Café de la Mairie is a great spot to sip a café crème, admire the lovely square, and consider your next move. If you’d like more shopping options, you’re in the heart of boutique shopping. As for me, stick a fourchette in me—I’m done.

Entertainment in Paris

Paris is brilliant after dark. Save energy from your day’s sightseeing and experience the City of Light lit.

Jazz and Blues Clubs

With a lively mix of American, French, and international musicians, Paris is an internationally acclaimed jazz capital. You’ll pay €12-25 to enter a jazz club (may include one drink; if not, expect to pay €5-10 per drink; beer is cheapest). See L’Officiel des Spectacles under “Concerts” for listings, or, even better, the Paris Voice website noted in the last section. You can also check each club’s website or drop by the clubs to check out the calendars posted on their front doors. Music starts after 21:00 in most clubs. Some offer dinner concerts from about 20:30 on. Here are several good bets:

Caveau de la Huchette, a fun, characteristic old jazz/dance club, fills an ancient Latin Quarter cellar with live jazz and frenzied dancing every night (admission about €16, €10 for those under 25, drinks from €7.50, daily from 21:00, no reservations needed, buy tickets at the door, 5 Rue de la Huchette, Mo: St-Michel, +33 1 43 26 65 05, www.caveaudelahuchette.fr).

For a spot teeming with late-night activity and jazz, go to the two-block-long Rue des Lombards, at Boulevard Sébastopol, midway between the river and the Pompidou Center (Mo: Châtelet). Au Duc des Lombards is one of the most popular and respected jazz clubs in Paris, with concerts nightly in a great, plush, 110-seat theater-like setting (€25-55, buy online and arrive early for best seats, reasonable drink prices, shows usually at 19:30 and 21:30, 42 Rue des Lombards, +33 1 42 33 22 88, www.ducdeslombards.com). Le Sunside is just a block away. The club offers two little stages (ground floor and downstairs): “Le Sunset” stage tends toward contemporary world jazz; “Le Sunside” stage features more traditional and acoustic jazz (concerts €25-40, a few are free; 60 Rue des Lombards, +33 1 40 26 46 60, www.sunset-sunside.com).

Classical Concerts

For classical music on any night, consult L’Officiel des Spectacles (www.offi.fr) and look for posters at tourist-oriented churches. From March through November, these churches regularly host concerts: St. Sulpice, St. Germain-des-Prés, La Madeleine, St. Eustache, St. Julien-le-Pauvre, and Sainte-Chapelle.

Sainte-Chapelle: Enjoy the pleasure of hearing Mozart, Bach, or Vivaldi surrounded by 800 years of stained glass (unheated—bring a sweater). The acoustical quality is surprisingly good. There are usually one or two concerts per evening. Tickets run about €40-50, and the more you pay, the closer you sit, though there isn’t a bad seat in the chapel. Seats are unassigned within each section, so arrive at least 30 minutes early to get through the security line and snare a good view.

Several companies sell tickets online but easiest by far is to buy at www.fnactickets.com (search “Sainte-Chapelle”). The small box office (with schedules and tickets) is to the left of the chapel entrance gate (8 Boulevard du Palais, Mo: Cité). Schedules and tickets are also available at www.euromusicproductions.fr.

Other Venues: Look for daytime concerts in parks such as the Luxembourg Garden. Even the Galeries Lafayette department store offers concerts. Many of these concerts are free (entrée libre), such as the Sunday atelier concert sponsored by the American Church (generally Sept-June at 17:00 but not every week and not in Dec, 65 Quai d’Orsay, Mo: Invalides, RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma, +33 1 40 62 05 00, www.acparis.org). The Army Museum offers inexpensive afternoon and evening classical music concerts all year round (for programs—in French only—see www.musee-armee.fr). There are also concerts at the Eiffel Tower and at the Louvre’s auditorium (schedule posted on French version of website—look for “En ce moment/événements & activités” at www.louvre.fr).

Opera

Paris is home to two well-respected opera venues. The Opéra Bastille is the massive modern opera house that dominates Place de la Bastille. Come here for state-of-the-art special effects and modern interpretations of classic ballets and operas. In the spirit of this everyman’s opera, unsold seats are available at a big discount to seniors and students 15 minutes before the show. Standing-room-only tickets for €15 are also sold for some performances (Mo: Bastille).

The Opéra Garnier, Paris’ first opera house, hosts opera and ballet performances. Come here for grand belle époque decor (Mo: Opéra; generally no performances mid-July-mid-Sept). To get tickets for either opera house, it’s easiest to reserve online at www.operadeparis.fr, or call +33 1 71 25 24 23 (office closed Sun). You can also buy tickets in person at their ticket offices (open Mon-Sat: Opéra Bastille 14:30-18:30, Opéra Garnier from 11:30; both also open an hour before show; closed Sun).

Evening Sightseeing

Various museums (Orsay, Pompidou, Marmottan, and the Louvre) are open late on different evenings—called Visites Nocturnes—offering the opportunity for more relaxed, less crowded visits. An elaborate sound-and-light show (Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes) takes place in the gardens at Versailles on some Saturday evenings in summer (see the next chapter).

Seine River Cruises

Several companies offer cruises after dark as well as dinner cruises on huge glass-domed boats (or open-air decks in summer) with departures along the Seine, including from the Eiffel Tower. Bateaux Parisiens is considered the best of the lot for dinner cruises (www.bateauxparisiens.com).

Night Walks

Go for an evening walk to best appreciate the City of Light. Break for ice cream, pause at a café, and enjoy the sidewalk entertainers as you join the post-dinner Parisian parade.

▲▲▲Trocadéro and Eiffel Tower: This is one of Paris’ most spectacular views at night. Take the Métro to the Trocadéro stop and join the party on Place du Trocadéro for a magnificent view of the glowing Eiffel Tower. It’s a festival of hawkers, gawkers, drummers, and entertainers.

▲▲Champs-Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe: The Avenue des Champs-Elysées is best after dark. Start at the Arc de Triomphe (open late), then stroll down Paris’ glittering grand promenade.

▲▲Ile St. Louis and Notre-Dame: This stroll features floodlit views of Notre-Dame and a taste of the Latin Quarter. Find your way to the east end of charming Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, stopping for dinner—or at least a Berthillon ice cream (at #31) or Amorino Gelati (at #47). At the west end of Ile St. Louis, cross Pont St. Louis to Ile de la Cité, with a knockout view of Notre-Dame. Wander to the Left Bank on Quai de l’Archevêché, and drop down to the river for the best floodlit views.

▲Deux Chevaux Car Tours

If rumbling around Paris and sticking your head out of the rolled-back top of a funky old Citroën 2CV car à la Inspector Clouseau sounds like your kind of fun, two enterprising companies have you covered with a veritable fleet of these “tin-can” cars. (Night is best for the tour; skip it in daylight.) The informal student-drivers are not professional guides and their services can be unreliable—but they will speak some English. Appreciate the simplicity of the car. It’s France’s version of the VW Beetle and hasn’t been made for decades. Notice the bare-bones dashboard. Ask your guide to honk the horn, run the silly little wipers, and open and close the air vent—c’est magnifique!

Either of these companies will pick you up and drop you at your hotel or wherever you choose. 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie (“4 wheels under 1 umbrella”) offers several tours with candy-colored cars (for 2 people it’s about €50/person for 45 minutes or €75 for 90 minutes; 10 percent tip appropriate if you enjoyed your ride, longer tours available, maximum 3 people/car, +33 1 58 59 27 82, +33 6 67 32 26 68, www.4roues-sous-1parapluie.com). Paris Authentic offers similar options and prices (+33 6 64 50 44 19, www.parisauthentic.com).

▲Nighttime Bus Tours

Take a double-decker bus tour for an entertaining overview of the city at its floodlit and scenic best. Although there’s recorded information, bring your city map to stay oriented as you go. Left-side seats are better, the trip is worthwhile even in the rain, and the driver slows for photos at viewpoints (€33, www.tootbus.com; €40 on Big Bus Paris tour, www.bigbustours.com, book online for best rates).

▲▲▲Floodlit Paris Driving Tour by Taxi or Uber

Seeing the City of Light floodlit is one of Europe’s best travel experiences and a great finale to any day in Paris. I recommend hiring a taxi or Uber driver to take you on a circular, one-hour route from Place du Châtelet (near Notre-Dame) to the Eiffel Tower along the Left Bank, then back along the Right Bank via the Champs-Elysées. Start on Place du Châtelet (a taxi stand is on the northwest corner), at any convenient point along the route, or from your hotel. Review with the driver exactly where you hope to stop (“arrêt”) along the way.

Sunday is the best night, as there’s less traffic. Complete your tour by midnight, when lights are shut off at major monuments. Your other timing consideration: The Eiffel Tower twinkles for only the first five minutes of each hour after dark. If you start at Place du Châtelet at half past the hour, you should be right on time for the sparkles.

This loop costs around €50 (more on Sun). If your driver was easy to work with, add a 10 percent tip; if not, tip just 5 percent. Drivers can take up to four people in a cab or regular sedan, though this is tight for decent sightseeing (with three, everyone gets a window).

Sleeping in Paris

I’ve focused my recommendations on the following safe, handy, and colorful neighborhoods: the village-like Rue Cler (near the Eiffel Tower), the artsy and trendy Marais (near Place de la Bastille), and the historic island of Ile St. Louis (next door to Notre-Dame).

If you’re looking on your own for accommodations (beyond this book’s listings), consider also the classy Luxembourg Garden area (on the Left Bank) and the less polished, less central, but less pricey Montmartre neighborhood. For lower rates or greater selection, look farther from the river (prices drop proportionately with distance from the Seine), but be prepared to spend more time on the Métro or the bus getting to sights.

For some travelers, short-term, Airbnb-type rentals can be a good alternative; search for places in my recommended hotel neighborhoods. I also list a few rental agencies and give suggestions for sleeping near Paris’ airports. For more details on reservations, short-term rentals, and chain hotels in Paris, see the “Sleeping” section in the Practicalities chapter.

RUE CLER NEIGHBORHOOD

(7th arr., Mo: Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, Invalides)

Rue Cler is so French that when I step out of my hotel in the morning, I feel like I must have been a poodle in a previous life. How such coziness lodged itself between the high-powered government district, the Eiffel Tower, and Les Invalides, I’ll never know. This is a neighborhood of wide, tree-lined boulevards, stately apartment buildings, and lots of Americans. Hotels here are pricey but considering the elegance of the neighborhood, it’s worth the added euros. And for sightseeing, you’re within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower, Army Museum, Seine River, Champs-Elysées, riverside promenade, and Orsay and Rodin museums.

On Rue Cler you can eat and browse your way through a street full of cafés, pastry shops, delis, cheese shops, and colorful outdoor produce stalls. Afternoon boules on the Esplanade des Invalides or in the Champ de Mars park is a relaxing spectator sport. The manicured gardens behind the golden dome of the Army Museum are free, peaceful, and filled with flowers (at southwest corner of grounds), and the riverside promenade along the Seine is a fine place to walk, run, bike, or just sit and watch the river of people stroll by.

Laundry: Here are three handy locations: on Rue Augereau, on Rue Amélie (both between Rue St. Dominique and Rue de Grenelle), and at the southeast corner of Rue Valadon and Rue de Grenelle.

Métro Connections: Key Métro stops are Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, and Invalides. The useful RER/Train-C line runs from the nearby Pont de l’Alma and Invalides stations, serving Versailles to the southwest; the Marmottan Museum and Auvers-sur-Oise to the northwest; and the Orsay Museum, Latin Quarter (St. Michel stop), and Austerlitz train station to the east.

Bus Routes: These are the most useful routes for the Rue Cler area; for stop locations, see the “Rue Cler Hotels” map. Line #69 along Rue St. Dominique (eastbound to Les Invalides, Orsay, Louvre, Marais, and Père Lachaise), #63 along the Quai d’Orsay (eastbound to Orsay, Latin Quarter Gare de Lyon; westbound to Trocadéro, Marmottan), and #92 along Avenue Bosquet (northbound to Champs-Elysées and Arc de Triomphe; southbound to Army and Rodin museums, Montparnasse Tower, Gare Montparnasse).

Taxi: You’ll find taxi stands just off Place L’Ecole Militaire and near the intersection of Avenue Bosquet and Rue de Grenelle.

In the Heart of Rue Cler

Many of my readers stay in the Rue Cler neighborhood. If you want to disappear into Paris, choose a hotel elsewhere. The following hotels are within Camembert-smelling distance of Rue Cler.

$$$$ Hôtel du Cadran,**** a well-placed boule toss from Rue Cler, is modern and très stylish, with a wine bar in its lobby, designer rooms, and free access to a spa. The hotel has rooms in two locations a block apart. The main hotel has 40 tight rooms (“superior” rooms worth the extra euros), and their 12-room annex has larger rooms, though you’ll sleep well in either (RS% includes big breakfast—use code “RICK,” 10 Rue du Champ de Mars, +33 1 40 62 67 00, www.cadranhotel.com, resa@cadranhotel.com).

$$$ Hôtel Relais Bosquet*** is a fine and well-run hotel in an ideal location, with comfortable public spaces and smartly configured rooms that are large by local standards and feature effective darkness blinds (RS%—use code “RSDEAL,” good but pricey breakfast buffet with eggs and sausage, 19 Rue du Champ de Mars, +33 1 47 05 25 45, www.hotel-paris-bosquet.com, hotel@relaisbosquet.com).

$$$ Grand Hôtel Lévêque,*** recently updated, has a terrific location on Rue Cler and good rooms but unappealing public spaces and a less engaged staff (29 Rue Cler, +33 1 47 05 49 15, www.hotel-leveque.com, info@hotelleveque.com).

$$$ Cler Hotel*** is an eager-to-please boutique hotel with appealing decor, a small outdoor patio, and a killer location right on Rue Cler. Rooms are well designed; those fronting Rue Cler come with some early morning noise as shopkeepers begin their days (RS%, 24 bis Rue Cler, +33 1 45 00 18 06, www.clerhotel.com, contact@clerhotel.com). The helpful owners also run the sharp $$$ Hôtel la Canopée,*** on a quiet street near the Champs-Elysées, with 25 modern and tastefully decorated rooms and a pleasing patio (RS%, Mo: Miromesnil, 15 Rue de Penthièvre—see “Champs-Elysées Area” map on here, +33 1 86 22 21 21, www.hotelcanopee.com, contact@hotelcanopee.com).

$$ Hôtel de la Motte Picquet,*** at the corner of Rue Cler and Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, is an intimate and modest little place with 16 compact yet comfortable-enough rooms. The terrific staff makes staying here a pleasure (RS%—use code “STEVE-SMITH,” family rooms, good—and free—breakfast served in a minuscule breakfast room, 30 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, +33 1 47 05 09 57, www.hotelmottepicquetparis.com, book@hotelmottepicquetparis.com).

$$ Hôtel du Champ de Mars*** is a top choice, brilliantly located just 30 yards off Rue Cler. This plush little hotel has a small-town feel from top to bottom. Single rooms are well priced, and double rooms are snug but lovingly kept by hands-on owner Céline. It’s popular, so book well ahead (continental breakfast only, 7 Rue du Champ de Mars, +33 1 45 51 52 30, www.hotelduchampdemars.com, reservation@hotelduchampdemars.com).

$$ Hôtel Beaugency*** has 30 smallish but well-configured rooms, most with double beds, and a lobby that you can stretch out in. It’s a good value on a quieter street a short block off Rue Cler (free breakfast for Rick Steves readers, 21 Rue Duvivier, +33 1 47 05 01 63, www.hotel-beaugency.com, infos@hotel-beaugency.com).

Closer to Rue St. Dominique (and the Seine)

$$$ Hôtel de Londres Eiffel**** is a fine value and my closest listing to the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de Mars park. Here you get immaculate, warmly decorated rooms (several are connecting, for families), welcoming public spaces, and a terrific staff that can help with sight reservations and more. It’s a bit less convenient to the Métro but very handy to buses and RER/Train-C (RS%—use code RSNMP, some Eiffel Tower view rooms, 1 Rue Augereau, +33 1 45 51 63 02, www.londres-eiffel.com, info@londres-eiffel.com, helpful Arnaud and Adrien).

$ Hôtel de la Tour Eiffel** is a fair budget value (though prices can skyrocket at peak times) on a quiet street near several of my favorite restaurants. The rooms are simple yet have air-conditioning (breakfast deal arranged with nearby café). The six sets of connecting rooms are handy for families (RS%, 17 Rue de l’Exposition, +33 1 47 05 14 75, www.hotel-toureiffel.com, hte7@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel Eiffel Kensington** is a very simple place close to the Eiffel Tower offering basic comfort and an indifferent staff (some partial Eiffel Tower views, no air-con but ceiling fans, 79 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, +33 1 47 05 74 00, www.hotel-eiffel-kensington.com, hotelkensington@gmail.com).

Near La Tour Maubourg Métro Stop

These listings are within three blocks of the intersection of Avenue de la Motte-Picquet and Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg.

$$$$ Hôtel de Latour-Maubourg**** owns a peaceful manor-home setting with 17 plush, mostly large, and wonderfully traditional rooms; a small patio; and free spa for clients (across from La Tour-Maubourg Métro station at 150 Rue de Grenelle, +33 1 47 05 16 16, www.latourmaubourg.com, info@latourmaubourg.com).

$$$ Hôtel les Jardins d’Eiffel*** is a big place on a quiet street, with formal service, a peaceful patio, and a spacious lobby. The 81 rooms—some with partial Eiffel Tower views, some with balconies—offer a bit more space and quiet than other hotels (parking garage, 8 Rue Amélie, +33 1 47 05 46 21, www.hoteljardinseiffel.com, paris@hoteljardinseiffel.com).

$$$ Hôtel de l’Empereur*** is red-velvet plush and delivers smashing views of Invalides from many of its fine rooms. All rooms have queen- or king-size beds, are well designed with hints of the emperor, and are large by Paris standards (a few good family rooms, 2 Rue Chevert, +33 1 45 55 88 02, www.hotelempereurparis.com, contact@hotelempereur.com).

$$$ Hôtel Muguet*** is sharp, quiet, well located, and reasonable, with tastefully appointed rooms and a helpful staff (some view rooms, 11 Rue Chevert, +33 1 47 05 05 93, www.hotelparismuguet.com, contact@hotelparismuguet.com).

Near Ecole Militaire Métro Stop

These listings are a five-minute walk from Rue Cler, near the Ecole Militaire Métro stop or RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma.

$$$ Inwood Hotels has three sister hotels in this neighborhood; all are ****, well located, and offer top comfort and professional service—for a price (be clear about cancellation policies before booking). Public spaces and rooms are polished. The first two offer Rick Steves readers free breakfast; use www.inwood-hotels.com for booking at all three. Hôtel la Bourdonnais, near the Champ de Mars park, is the largest of the three and closest to the Eiffel Tower with tower views from several of its plush and comparatively spacious rooms (113 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, +33 1 47 05 45 42, labourdonnais@inwood-hotels.com). Hôtel le Walt has a nice interior courtyard terrace (37 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, +33 1 45 51 55 83, lewalt@inwood-hotels.com). Hôtel le Tourville is the most intimate and a lovely place to stay (6 Avenue de Tourville, +33 1 47 05 62 62, letourville@inwood-hotels.com).

$$$ Hôtel Eiffel Turenne*** is a good choice with sharp, well-maintained rooms, a pleasing lounge, and a service-oriented staff (20 Avenue de Tourville, +33 1 47 05 99 92, www.hoteleiffelturenne.com, reservation@hoteleiffelturenne.com).

$$$ Hôtel le Cercle-Tour Eiffel,*** a few steps from Champ de Mars park and the Eiffel Tower, is well run with stylish public spaces, plush and bigger-than-average rooms with modern accents, and a very narrow elevator (free breakfast for Rick Steves readers who book direct, 117 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, +33 1 47 05 42 30, https://hotelcercleparis.com, contact@hotelcercleparis.com).

$$$ Hôtel de la Paix,*** run by the same folks as the previous hotel, is a small place buried on a quiet lane. It has tasteful rooms with tight but good bathrooms and five true singles (free breakfast for Rick Steves readers who book direct, 19 Rue du Gros Caillou, +33 1 45 51 86 17, https://hotelparispaix.com, contact@hotelparispaix.com).

$$ Hôtel Duquesne Eiffel,*** a few blocks farther from the action, is handsome, hospitable, and reasonably priced. It features a welcoming lobby and staff, a streetfront terrace, and comfortable rooms—some with terrific Eiffel Tower views (RS%; big, hot breakfast—free for my readers; 23 Avenue Duquesne, +33 1 44 42 09 09, www.hotel-duquesne-eiffel-paris.com, hotel@hde.fr).

MARAIS

Those interested in a more central, diverse, and lively urban locale should make the Marais their Parisian home. This is jumbled, medieval Paris at its finest, where stone mansions sit above trendy bars, antique shops, and smart boutiques. The streets are an intriguing parade of artists, students, tourists, immigrants, and baguette-munching babies in strollers. The Marais is also known as a hub of the Parisian gay and lesbian scene.

In the Marais you have these sights close at hand: Carnavalet Museum, Victor Hugo’s House, Jewish Art and History Museum, Pompidou Center, and Picasso Museum. You’re also a manageable walk from Paris’ two islands (Ile St. Louis and Ile de la Cité), home to Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. The Opéra Bastille, La Coulée Verte Promenade-Park, Place des Vosges (Paris’ oldest square), the Jewish Quarter (Rue des Rosiers), the Latin Quarter, and nightlife-packed Rue de Lappe are also walkable. Strolling home (day or night) from Notre-Dame along Ile St. Louis is marvelous.

Most of my recommended hotels are a few blocks north of the Marais’ main east-west drag, Rue St. Antoine/Rue de Rivoli.

Laundry: Here are three that you can count on: at 40 Rue du Roi de Sicile, on Impasse Guéménée (north of Rue St. Antoine), and on Rue du Petit Musc (south of Rue St. Antoine).

Métro Connections: Key Métro stops in the Marais are, from east to west: Bastille, St-Paul, and Hôtel de Ville (Sully-Morland, Pont Marie, and Rambuteau are also handy). Métro connections are excellent, with direct service to the Louvre, Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, and La Défense (all on line 1); the Rue Cler area, Place de la Madeleine, and Opéra Garnier/Galeries Lafayette (line 8 from Bastille stop); and four major train stations: Gare de Lyon, Gare du Nord, Gare de l’Est, and Gare d’Austerlitz (all accessible from Bastille stop).

Bus Routes: For stop locations, see the “Marais Hotels” map. Line #69 on Rue St. Antoine (eastbound to Père Lachaise; westbound to Louvre, Orsay, and Rodin museums, Army Museum, Rue Cler, Eiffel Tower), #87 on Boulevard Henri IV (westbound to Ile St. Louis, Boulevard St. Germain, St. Sulpice Church/Luxembourg Garden, Musée d’Orsay; eastbound to Gare de Lyon), and #96 on Rues Turenne and Rivoli (westbound to Ile de la Cité, St. Sulpice, Gare Montparnasse).

Taxi: You’ll find taxi stands on the north side of Rue St. Antoine (across from St. Paul church), on Place de la Bastille (where Boulevard Richard Lenoir meets the square), and behind the Hôtel de Ville on Rue du Lobau (where it meets Rue de Rivoli).

Near Place des Vosges

(3rd and 4th arr., Mo: Bastille, St-Paul, or Hôtel de Ville)

$$$$ Hôtel le Pavillon de la Reine,***** 15 steps off the beautiful Place des Vosges, merits its stars with top service and comfort and exquisite attention to detail, from its melt-in-your-couch lobby to its luxurious rooms (free access to spa and fitness room, parking, 28 Place des Vosges, +33 1 40 29 19 19, www.pavillon-de-la-reine.com, contact@pdlr.fr).

$$$ Hôtel Bastille Spéria*** is situated a short block off Place de la Bastille, offering impersonal service and good comfort in a happening location. The 42 rooms have designer decor and are relatively spacious; rooms on the sixth floor have the most character (1 Rue de la Bastille, Mo: Bastille, +33 1 42 72 04 01, www.hotelsperia.com, info@hotelsperia.com).

$$$ Hôtel St. Louis Marais*** is an intimate and sharply managed little hotel that sits on a quiet street a few blocks from the river. The handsome, well-priced rooms have character and spacious bathrooms (1 Rue Charles V, Mo: Sully-Morland, +33 1 48 87 87 04, www.saintlouismarais.com, marais@saintlouis-hotels.com).

$$$ Hôtel Castex*** is a well-located choice—on a quiet street near Place de la Bastille—with narrow and tile-floored rooms that could use a facelift. Their system of connecting rooms allows families total privacy between two rooms, each with its own bathroom (free buffet breakfast for Rick Steves readers, just off Place de la Bastille and Rue St. Antoine at 5 Rue Castex, Mo: Bastille, +33 1 42 72 31 52, www.castexhotel.com, info@castexhotel.com).

$$$ Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc*** is a lovely but pricey hotel that’s ideally located for connoisseurs of the Marais who don’t need air-conditioning. In the lobby, artful decor meets stone walls and oak floors; rooms are thoughtfully appointed, and corner rooms are wonderfully bright in the City of Light. Rooms on the street can have some noise until the bars close (family rooms, some view rooms, 3 Rue de Jarente, Mo: St-Paul, +33 1 48 87 62 11, www.hoteljeannedarc.com [URL inactive], information@hoteljeannedarc.com).

$$$ Hôtel de Neuve*** is a small, central, and basic place in need of some TLC. They serve high tea in the afternoon and offer decent rates. Twin rooms come with tub-showers and are a bit larger (behind the Monoprix at 14 Rue Neuve St. Pierre, Mo: St-Paul, +33 1 44 59 28 50, www.hoteldeneuveparis.com, bonjour@hoteldeneuveparis.com).

$$ Sully Hôtel,* right on Rue St. Antoine, is a basic, cheap place run by affable Monsieur Zeroual. The rooms are bare bones and bathrooms can be musty, but it’s a fair budget value in this neighborhood. Two can spring for a triple for more room (family rooms, no elevator, no air-con, no breakfast, 48 Rue St. Antoine, Mo: St-Paul, +33 1 42 78 49 32, www.sullyhotelparis.com, sullyhotel@orange.fr).

¢ MIJE Youth Hostels: The Maison Internationale de la Jeunesse et des Etudiants (MIJE) runs two classy, old residences, ideal for budget travelers. Each is well maintained, with simple, clean, single-sex one- to ten-bed rooms. The hostels are MIJE Fourcy (bigger and louder, 6 Rue de Fourcy, just south of Rue de Rivoli) and MIJE Fauconnier (no elevator, 11 Rue du Fauconnier). Neither has double beds or air-conditioning. Both have private showers in every room—but bring your own towel or buy one there (includes breakfast, required membership-€3 extra/person, Wi-Fi in common areas only, rooms locked 12:00-15:00). They share the same contact information (+33 1 42 74 23 45, www.mije.com, info@mije.com) and Métro stop (St-Paul). Show up by noon or call to confirm a later arrival time.

Near the Pompidou Center

(4th arr., Mo: St-Paul, Hôtel de Ville, or Rambuteau)

These hotels are farther west, closer to the Pompidou Center than to Place de la Bastille.

$$$ Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais*** transports you to the 18th century, with a small lobby that’s cluttered with bits from an elegant old Marais house. If you want traditional French decor, stay here. Located on a busy street, it’s well cared for, filled with character—and popular, so book well ahead (12 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 42 72 34 12, www.carondebeaumarchais.com, hotel@carondebeaumarchais.com).

$$$ Hôtel de la Bretonnerie*** makes a fine Marais home. Located three blocks from the Hôtel de Ville, it has a warm, welcoming lobby and helpful staff. Its 30 good-value rooms are on the larger side with an antique, open-beam warmth (family rooms, one free breakfast for Rick Steves readers who book direct, no air-con, between Rue Vieille du Temple and Rue des Archives at 22 Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, +33 1 48 87 77 63, www.hotelparismaraisbretonnerie.com, hotel@bretonnerie.com).

$$$ Hôtel Beaubourg*** is an excellent value on a small street in the shadow of the Pompidou Center. The place is surprisingly quiet, and the 28 plush and traditional rooms are well appointed with colorful touches (bigger doubles are worth the extra cost, 11 Rue Simon Le Franc, Mo: Rambuteau, +33 1 42 74 34 24, www.hotelbeaubourg.com, reservation@hotelbeaubourg.com).

$$$ Hôtel de Nice,*** on the Marais’ busy main drag, features a turquoise-and-fuchsia “Marie-Antoinette-does-tie-dye” decor. This character-filled place is littered with paintings and layered with carpets, and its 23 Old World rooms have thoughtful touches, though bathrooms are tight (reception on second floor, 42 bis Rue de Rivoli, +33 1 42 78 55 29, www.hoteldenice.com, contact@hoteldenice.com).

$$$ D’Win Hôtel** is a better value in the thick of the Marais, with a helpful staff and 33 relatively spacious and quiet rooms (family rooms, no elevator, 20 Rue du Temple, +33 1 44 54 05 05, www.dwinhotel.com, contact@dwinhotel.com).

$$ Hôtel du Loiret*** has a basic lobby but rents good rooms with tight bathrooms at fair rates (no air-con, expect some noise, 8 Rue des Mauvais Garçons, +33 1 48 87 77 00, www.hotel-du-loiret.fr [URL inactive], hotelduloiret@hotmail.com).

ILE ST. LOUIS

(4th arr., Mo: Pont Marie)

The peaceful, residential character of this river-wrapped island, with its brilliant location and homemade ice cream, has drawn Americans for decades. There are no budget deals here—all the hotels are three-star or more—though prices are respectable considering the level of comfort and wonderful location. The island’s village ambience and proximity to the Marais, Notre-Dame, and the Latin Quarter make this area well worth considering. For locations, see the “Marais Hotels” map, earlier. There are no Métro stops on Ile St. Louis; expect a 10-minute walk to the closest station—Pont Marie—or a bit farther to Cité. Bus #69 works well for Ile St. Louis residents.

$$$$ Hôtel du Jeu de Paume**** occupies a 17th-century tennis center. Its magnificent lobby and cozy public spaces make it a fine splurge. Greet Lemon (luh-moe), le chien, then take a spin in the glass elevator for a half-timbered treehouse experience. The 30 rooms are carefully designed and tasteful, though not particularly spacious (you’re paying for the location and public areas). Most rooms face a small garden courtyard; all are pin-drop peaceful (apartments for 4-6 people, 54 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 43 26 14 18, www.jeudepaumehotel.com, info@jeudepaumehotel.com).

The next two places share the same hands-on owner and comfort. $$$$ Hôtel de Lutèce*** has a welcoming wood-paneled lobby and cozy rooms. Rooms on lower floors have high ceilings. Twin rooms are larger and the same price as doubles; there are a few good triple rooms (65 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 43 26 23 52, www.hoteldelutece.com, bonjour@hoteldelutece.com).

$$$ Hôtel des Deux-Iles*** has a fun lobby and rents lovely green-hued rooms with a few true singles. It’s cheaper than the Lutèce—you can’t go wrong in either place (59 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 43 26 13 35, www.deuxiles-paris-hotel.com, bonjour@hoteldesdeuxiles.com).

$$$ Hôtel Saint-Louis*** blends character with modern comforts. The sharp rooms come with warm wood floors and exposed beams. Rates are reasonable...for the location (some rooms with balcony, 75 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 46 34 04 80, www.saintlouisenlisle.com, isle@saintlouis-hotels.com).

AT OR NEAR PARIS AIRPORTS

At Charles de Gaulle Airport: These three places are located a few minutes from the terminals (outside the T-3 RER/Train-B stop and on the CDGVAL airport shuttle train loop). All have restaurants. For locations, see the map on here.

$$$ Novotel*** is a step up from cookie-cutter airport hotels (+33 1 49 19 27 27, https://novotel.accor.com, h1014@accor.com).

$$ Hôtel Ibis CDG Airport** is huge and offers standard airport accommodations (+33 1 49 19 19 19, https://ibis.accor.com, h1404@accor.com). There are several IBIS airport hotels to choose from—you want IBIS Terminal 3.

$$ Holiday Inn Express** is also a good value and close (www.ihg.com, reception@hiexpariscdg.com).

Near Orly Airport: These two chain hotels are your best options near Orly. Both have free shuttles (navettes) to the terminals.

$$$ Hôtel Mercure Paris Orly Tech*** provides good comfort for a price (+33 8 25 80 69 69, https://mercure.accor.com, h1246@accor.com).

$$ Hôtel Ibis Orly Tech Aéroport** is reasonable and basic (+33 1 56 70 50 60, https://ibis.accor.com, h1413@accor.com).

APARTMENT RENTALS

Consider this option if you’re traveling as a family, in a group, or staying at least a few nights. Intrepid travelers around the world are accustomed to using Airbnb and VRBO when it comes to renting a vacation apartment. In Paris, you have many additional options among rental agencies, and I’ve found those listed below to be the most reliable. Their websites are good and essential to understanding your choices: Paris Perfect (RS%, www.parisperfect.com), Cobblestone Paris Rentals (RS%—use code “RSPARIS,” www.cobblestoneparis.com), Home Rental Service (www.homerental.fr), Haven in Paris (https://havenin.com), Paris Home (www.parishome2000.com), Paris for Rent (www.parisforrent.com), and Cross-Pollinate (www.cross-pollinate.com).

Eating in Paris

The Parisian eating scene is kept at a rolling boil. Entire books (and lives) are dedicated to the subject. Paris is France’s wine-and-cuisine melting pot. There is no “Parisian cuisine” to speak of (only French onion soup is truly Parisian), but it draws from the best of France. Paris could hold a gourmet Olympics and import nothing.

My restaurant recommendations are mostly centered on the same great neighborhoods as my hotel listings; you can come home exhausted after a busy day of sightseeing and find a good selection of eateries right around the corner. And evening is a fine time to explore any of these delightful neighborhoods, even if you’re sleeping elsewhere. Serious eaters looking for even more suggestions should consult the always-appetizing ParisByMouth.com, an eating-and-drinking guide to Paris.

Many restaurants offer à la carte only; others have set-price menus—good values if you want that much food. To maximize your experience, it’s fun and fine to share. (You can even request a small extra plate.) Remember that a service charge is included in the prices (so little or no tipping is expected).

Many restaurants close Sunday and/or Monday. Most open for dinner around 19:00, though a few serve “nonstop” all day. Last seating is usually at about 22:00. Eat early with tourists or late with locals—restaurants that are popular with locals get crowded after 21:00.

For more advice on eating in Paris, including restaurant pricing; dining in restaurants, cafés, and brasseries; getting takeout and assembling a picnic; and a rundown of French cuisine, see the “Eating” section of the Practicalities chapter.

RUE CLER NEIGHBORHOOD

On and Near Rue Cler

(Mo: Ecole Militaire)

$ Café du Marché boasts the best seats on Rue Cler. The owner’s philosophy is “brasserie on speed”—crank out good-enough food at fair prices to appreciative locals and savvy tourists. It’s high-energy, with young waiters who barely have time to smile...très Parisian. This place works well if you don’t mind dining on average-quality cuisine with a lot of commotion (daily, serves continuously, no reservations, often packed after 19:00, at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue du Champ de Mars, 38 Rue Cler, +33 1 47 05 51 27).

$ L’Eclair, a few doors down from Café du Marché, is a bar-meets-bistro with a limited but top-quality menu, a trendy vibe, and terrific seating amid the Rue Cler market action (daily until late, 32 Rue Cler, +33 1 44 18 09 04).

$ Marzo draws lots of locals for wood-fired pizza and antipasti at good prices. It’s bright, lively, and a classy place to enjoy Italian fare (daily, 1 Rue du Champs de Mars, +33 1 40 62 90 95).

$ Le Petit Cler is an adorable and popular little bistro with long leather booths, a vintage interior, tight ranks of tiny and cramped tables—indoors and out—and simple, inexpensive plats, omelets, and soups. Eating (or just drinking) outside here with a view of Rue Cler can be marvelous (daily, arrive early or call in advance; delicious pots de crème and good breakfasts as well; 29 Rue Cler, +33 1 45 50 17 50).

$$ Café Roussillon offers a rustic, pub-like ambience with food that works well for families. You’ll find hearty hamburgers, salads, daily specials, and easygoing waiters (daily, serves nonstop from lunch until late, indoor seating only, corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler, +33 1 45 51 47 53). While less charming than other spots, it’s more likely to have a table available.

$$$ Le Florimond is fun for a special occasion. Locals come for classic French cuisine at fair prices. Friendly Laurent, whose playful ties change daily, gracefully serves one small room of tables and loves to give suggestions. Pascal, his chef of many years, produces particularly tasty stuffed cabbage that can feed two and confit de canard. The house wine is excellent (closed Sat-Sun, reservations smart, 19 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, +33 1 45 55 40 38, www.leflorimond.com).

$$$ Bistrot Belhara delivers a vintage French dining experience in an intimate space. Chef-owner Thierry cooks up a blend of inventive and classic dishes and offers a tasty menu. Earnest and helpful Frédéric runs the front of the house with a smile (closed Sun-Mon, reservations smart, a block off Rue Cler at 23 Rue Duvivier, +33 1 45 51 41 77, www.bistrotbelhara.com).

Close to Ecole Militaire

(Mo: Ecole Militaire)

$$ Le Septième Vin is a cozy and welcoming bistro. Hervé cooks while wife Stéphanie serves delicious traditional cuisine at good prices in a romantic and very Parisian setting (closed Sun, the confit de canard and dorade are memorable, 68 Avenue Bosquet, +33 1 45 51 15 97).

$$ Café le Bosquet is a contemporary Parisian brasserie facing a busy street where you’ll dine for a decent price inside or outside on a broad sidewalk. Come here for standard café fare—salad, French onion soup, steak-frites, or a plat du jour. Lanky owner “Jeff” offers three-course meals and plats (serves nonstop, closed Sun, corner of Rue du Champ de Mars at 46 Avenue Bosquet, +33 1 45 51 38 13, www.bosquetparis.com).

$$ La Terrasse du 7ème is a sprawling, happening café with grand outdoor seating and a living room-like interior with comfy love seats. It overlooks a busy intersection with a constant parade of people and traffic. Chairs face the street, as a meal here is like dinner theater—and the show is slice-of-life Paris (nonstop service—and parade of pedestrians—daily until late; good salades, French onion soup, and foie gras; 2 Place de L’Ecole Militaire, +33 1 45 55 00 02).

Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, East of Avenue Bosquet

(Mo: La Tour-Maubourg)

$$ Rosemarie is worth the longer walk to lose the tourists and dine very well on traditional cuisine in a pleasant setting at good prices. Philippe—a refugee from a more famous restaurant—carefully prepares your meal while his charming wife Nina serves (closed Sat-Sun, 149 Rue de l’Université, +33 1 45 51 03 71).

$$ Bistrot Chez France is a simple place lined with red-velvet booths where the focus is on food, not charming ambience. You must order from the two- or three-course menu. Sit back and trust Régis to manage your meal (closed Sun, good choices of classic French cuisine, well-priced and accessible wine options, 9 Rue Amelie, +33 1 40 67 96 54).

$$$ Thoumieux is the neighborhood’s grand brasserie, with a showy interior lined with red velvet chairs and decked with chandeliers. Come here for a gourmet experience with waiters who will fuss over you. Because it’s popular with locals, it’s quiet until 20:00 (daily, 79 Rue St. Dominique, +33 01 47 05 49 75).

$$$ Au Petit Tonneau is an endearing French bistro with its original time-warp decor, fleur-de-lis tiled floor, and carefully prepared food from a limited menu. Away from the Rue Cler tourist crush, this place is real, the cuisine is delicious, and the experience—mixing casual with classy—is what you came to France for (closed Mon off-season, good à la carte choices, well-priced wines, 20 Rue Surcouf, +33 1 47 05 09 01, charming owner Arlette at your service).

Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, West of Avenue Bosquet

(Mo: Ecole Militaire unless otherwise noted)

$$ Le P’tit Troquet is a petite eatery taking you back to the Paris of the 1920s. Anna serves while hubby José cooks a tasty range of traditional choices. The homey charm of the tight little dining room makes this place a delight (dinner service from 18:30, closed Sun, reservations smart, €40 three-course dinner menu, 28 Rue de l’Exposition, +33 1 47 05 80 39, www.leptittroquet.fr).

$$ Café de Mars is a relaxed place where mellow Pierre features creative cuisine that draws from many countries—and half the menu is vegetarian. With its simple setting and fair prices, it feels more designed for neighbors than tourists. It’s also comfortable for single diners thanks to its welcoming counter (closed Sun-Mon, open from 18:30, 11 Rue Augereau, +33 1 45 50 10 90).

$$ Comptoir de la Traboule, a tiny wine bar with a fun vibe and counter-style seats, serves tasty shareable plates that they’ll happily match with fairly priced wines (daily, 1 bis Rue Augereau, +33 1 43 19 02 08).

$ Le Royal is a little neighborhood fixture offering cheap and simple traditional dishes. This humble place, with prices and decor from another era, comes from an age when cafés sold firewood and served food as an afterthought (lunch and dinner most days, 212 Rue de Grenelle, +33 1 47 53 92 90).

Affordable Italian: Fun and characteristic, $$ Ristorante Gusto Italia serves classic dishes and pizza in tight quarters (daily, two locations—199 Rue de Grenelle and a less-appealing sister across the street, +33 1 45 55 00 43).

Rue St. Dominique Lineup

(Mo: Ecole Militaire or RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma)

A terrific string of restaurants gathers a few short blocks from the Eiffel Tower. Find the western end of Rue St. Dominique between Rue Augereau and Rue de l’Exposition for the restaurants below. Each is distinct, offering a different experience and price range. None is really cheap (except for the crêperie), but each is a good value, delivering top-quality cuisine.

$$$ La Fontaine de Mars, a longtime favorite and neighborhood institution, is charmingly situated on a tiny, jumbled square with tables jammed together for the serious business of eating. Reserve in advance for a table on the ground floor or square, but pass on the upstairs room (daily, superb foie gras and desserts, 129 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 47 05 46 44, www.fontainedemars.com).

$$$$ Le Violon d’Ingres has earned a Michelin star and makes for a good excuse to dress up and dine finely in Paris. Glass doors open onto a serious but accessible eating scene. Service is formal yet helpful (daily, reservations essential, order à la carte or consider their €170 seven-course tasting menu, €60 lunch menu, 135 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 45 55 15 05, www.leviolondingres.paris).

$$$ Les Cocottes attracts a crowd of in-the-know Parisians and tourists with its foodie energy and trendy-trad dishes served in cocottes—small cast-iron pots. There’s good outside seating, or sit inside at one of the high tables or the long, inviting bar facing the kitchen action (daily, nonstop service from noon until late, 135 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 45 50 10 28).

¢ Crep’ and Tea is a one-woman show with sweet-as-they-get Fatima serving a creative menu of homemade crêpes in her tidy, shoebox-size room with Tetris seating (daily, 139 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 45 51 70 78).

MARAIS

The trendy Marais is filled with diners enjoying fine food in colorful and atmospheric eateries. The scene—gay, fun, and creative—is competitive and changes all the time. I’ve listed an assortment of places, all handy to recommended hotels, that offer good food at decent prices plus a memorable experience.

On Romantic Place des Vosges

(Mo: St-Paul or Bastille)

This square offers Old World Marais elegance, a handful of eateries, and an ideal picnic site until dusk, when the park closes. Strolling around the arcade after dark is more important than dining here—fanciful art galleries alternate with restaurants and cafés. Choose a restaurant that best fits your mood and budget; most have arcade seating and provide big space heaters to make outdoor dining during colder months an option. Also consider just a drink on the square at Café Hugo.

$$ La Place Royale, offering a traditional menu and an exceptional location on the square—with comfortable seating inside or out—is good for a relaxed lunch or dinner. Come here for the setting and snag an outdoor table under the arches. The hearty cuisine is priced well and served nonstop all day, and Arnaud’s lengthy wine list is reasonable. Splitting a large salad and ordering two main courses works well for two diners (daily, reserve ahead to dine outside under the arcade, lunch specials, 2 bis Place des Vosges, +33 1 42 78 58 16).

$ Café Hugo, named for the square’s most famous resident, serves salads and basic café fare with a Parisian energy. The food’s just OK, but the setting’s terrific, with good seating under the arches (daily, 22 Place des Vosges, +33 1 42 72 64 04).

Near Place des Vosges

(Mo: Chemin Vert)

$$ Chez Janou, a Provençal bistro, tumbles out of its corner building and fills its broad sidewalk with happy eaters. Don’t let the trendy, youthful crowd and the density of diners intimidate you: It’s relaxed and charming, with helpful and patient service. The curbside tables are inviting, but I’d sit inside (with very tight seating) to immerse myself in the pleasant commotion. The style is French Mediterranean, with an emphasis on vegetables (daily—book ahead or arrive when it opens at 19:00, 2 blocks beyond Place des Vosges at 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, +33 1 42 72 28 41, www.chezjanou.com). They serve 81 varieties of pastis (licorice-flavored liqueur; browse the list above the bar).

$$ Le Petit Marché, popular with tourists and locals, delivers a warm bistro experience inside and out with friendly service and a tasty cuisine that blends French classics with an Asian influence (smart to book a day ahead, daily, 9 Rue du Béarn, +33 1 42 72 06 67, www.lepetitmarche.eu).

At Carnavalet Museum

(Mo: St-Paul or Pont-Marie)

$ Fabula, a café at the Carnavalet Museum, serves original snacks and drinks in two peaceful courtyards during the day. It transforms into a stylish $$$ restaurant for a timeless dinner from May to September (entrance west of the museum, closed Mon, 23 Rue de Sévigné, +33 1 86 95 10 61).

Near Place de la Bastille

(Mo: Bastille or St-Paul)

$$$ Brasserie Bofinger, an institution since 1864, specializes in seafood and traditional Alsatian cuisine. The food quality is not what it used to be, but you’ll eat amid one-of-a-kind ambience in elaborately decorated ground-floor rooms reminiscent of the Roaring 1920s. Reserve ahead to dine under the grand 1919 coupole (sous le dôme; “soo luh dohm”) and avoid eating upstairs. If you’ve always wanted one of those pricey picturesque multitiered seafood platters, this is a good place, though the Alsatian dishes are far cheaper (daily, 5 Rue de la Bastille, +33 1 42 72 87 82, www.bofingerparis.com).

$$$ Grande Brasserie, nearby, offers très authentic food in a fine setting. Their traditional French œuf mayonnaise won a world championship in 2023 (daily, 6 Rue de la Bastille, +33 9 75 80 99 72).

$$ Le Temps des Cerises is a warm place with loads of character, a young and lively vibe, tight inside seating, and a couple of outdoor tables. (There are a few more upstairs that I’d avoid.) Come for a glass of wine at the small zinc bar and stay for a very tasty dinner. The caring waiters serve generous portions (daily, reasonable wine list, at the corner of Rue du Petit Musc and Rue de la Cerisaie, 31 Rue de la Cerisaie, +33 1 42 72 08 63).

$ Crêpes and Pizza: Two tiny budget finds are open daily and sit side by side where Rue St. Paul meets Rue Neuve St. Pierre. Both are open daily and have good but limited seating inside and out. Crêpolog dishes out a tasty range of savory and dessert crêpes using fresh batter and offers a good formule with hard cider (Mo: St-Paul, +33 1 43 48 28 34). La Cerise sur la Pizza (“Cherry on the Pizza”) fires up Marseille-style thin-crust pizza (eat there or take it to go, Mo: St-Paul, +33 1 42 78 15 59).

In the Heart of the Marais

(Mo: St-Paul)

$$$ Chez Mademoiselle’s eclectic decor and fun energy recall charming owner Alexia’s previous career as a French comédienne. This local favorite comes with lots of noise, making it good for a fun night out. Dine inside or at a sidewalk table. Ingredients are fresh and prepared simply. Let the easygoing staff share their enthusiasm for the seasonal dishes before you choose (daily from 19:30, good wine list, 16 Rue Charlemagne, +33 1 42 72 14 16).

$$ On Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: This small, romantic square just off Rue St. Antoine is cloaked in extremely Parisian, leafy-square ambience. It feels like the Latin Quarter but classier. On a balmy evening, it’s a neighborhood favorite, with a handful of restaurants offering mediocre cuisine (you’re here for the setting). It’s also family-friendly: Most places serve French hamburgers, and kids can dance around the square while parents relax. Survey the options. You’ll find several French bistros with similar features and menus. Le Marché is a good choice.

$$ Les Bougresses, just off the charming square, offers less romance but far more taste and a fine three-course menu for under €30. Stepping inside this cozy place, you feel like you’ve joined a food lovers’ party with owners Mika and Constantin overseeing the fun (closed Mon, open from 18:30, inside seating only, 6 Rue de Jarente, +33 1 48 87 71 21).

In the Jewish Quarter, Rue des Rosiers

(Mo: St-Paul or Hôtel de Ville)

$$ Chez Marianne is a neighborhood fixture that serves tasty Jewish cuisine in a fun atmosphere with Parisian élan. Choose an indoor spot with a cluttered wine shop/deli feeling, or sit outside. You’ll select from a list of hot and cold zakouskis (like Jewish tapas or mezes) to assemble your plat. It’s Jewish “diaspora cuisine”—from Israel to Iberia to Poland. Vegetarians will find great options (long hours daily, takeaway falafel sandwiches, 2 Rue des Hospitalières St. Gervais—at the corner with Rue des Rosiers, +33 1 42 72 18 86).

$$ Le Loir dans la Théière (“The Dormouse in the Teapot”—think Alice in Wonderland) is a cozy, mellow teahouse offering a welcoming ambience for tired travelers (laptops and smartphones are not welcome). It’s ideal for lunch but slammed on weekends. They offer a daily assortment of creatively filled quiches and bake an impressive array of homemade desserts that are proudly displayed in the dining room (daily for lunch; dessert only after 15:00, 3 Rue des Rosiers, +33 1 42 72 90 61).

$ Falafel Row is a series of inexpensive joints that line Rue des Rosiers between Rue des Ecouffes and Rue Vieille du Temple. Take a stroll along this short stretch to compare the filling falafel sandwiches and other Jewish dishes, then decide. Takeout service draws a constant crowd (long hours most days, most are closed Fri evening and all day Sat).

Close to Hôtel de Ville

(Mo: Hôtel de Ville)

$$ Au Bourguignon du Marais is a dressy wine bar/bistro for Burgundy lovers, where excellent wines (Burgundian only, available by the glass) blend with a good selection of well-designed dishes and efficient service. The œufs en meurette are mouthwatering and the bœuf bourguignon could feed two (daily, pleasing indoor and outdoor seating on a perfect Marais corner, 52 Rue François Miron, +33 1 48 87 15 40).

$$ Les Philosophes has an effervescent Parisian vibe where you can rub elbows with locals and tease the friendly waiters. Read the tiny print on the menu to learn about the owner’s “Real Home Cooking” philosophy. The long corner terrace is terrific (nonstop service from 12:00 until very late; no reservations, arrive early to avoid lines; closed Mon-Tue, 28 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 48 87 49 64).

$ Au Petit Fer à Cheval, serving fairly priced, standard café fare, seems tailor-made for memories. The horseshoe-shaped zinc bar, which feels like a movie set, immerses you in the clatter of the scene. The tight dining room in the rear is Old World adorable—a tobacco-stained Cubist time warp. And the few outdoor tables offer classic café seating that is street-theater perfect (closed Mon-Tue, 30 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 42 72 47 47).

$ L’Ebouillanté is a breezy café, romantically situated near the river on a broad, cobbled pedestrian lane behind a church. With outdoor seating on flimsy chairs and an artsy interior, it’s good for an inexpensive and relaxing tea, snack, or lunch—or dinner on a warm evening. Their bricks—paper-thin, Tunisian-inspired pancakes stuffed with what you’d typically find in an omelet—come with a small salad (closed Mon, a block off the river at 6 Rue des Barres, +33 1 42 74 70 52).

$ BHV Department Store’s fifth-floor cafeteria provides nice views, good prices, and many main courses to choose from plus a salad bar. It’s family-easy (daily 11:00-19:00, hot food served until 16:00, at intersection of Rue du Temple and Rue de la Verrerie, one block from Hôtel de Ville).

Close to Rue de Bretagne

(Mo: Filles du Calvaire or Rambuteau)

$$ Breizh Café is worth the hike for some of the best Breton crêpes in Paris (“Breizh” means Brittany). This simple joint serves organic crêpes—both sweet and savory. They talk about cider like a sommelier would talk about wine. Try a sparkling cider, a Breton cola, or my favorite—lait ribot, a buttermilk-like drink in which purists dunk their buckwheat crêpe (daily, serves nonstop until late, reservations highly recommended, 109 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 42 72 13 77, www.breizhcafe.com/le-marais).

ILE ST. LOUIS

(Mo: Pont Marie)

These recommended spots—ranging from rowdy to petite, rustic to elegant—line the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile (for locations, see the “Marais Restaurants” map, earlier).

$$$ Les Fous de l’Ile is a tasty, lighthearted mash-up of a collector’s haunt, art gallery, and bistro. It’s a fun place to eat bistro fare with gourmet touches for a good price (daily, 33 Rue des Deux Ponts, +33 1 43 25 76 67).

$$ L’Orangerie is an inviting, rustic yet elegant place with soft lighting, comfortable spacious seating, and a hushed ambience. The cuisine blends traditional with modern touches; good value two- or three-course menus (closed Mon, 28 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 85 15 21 31).

$ Auberge de la Reine Blanche—woodsy, cozy, and tight—welcomes diners willing to rub elbows with their neighbors. Earnest owner Michel offers basic French cuisine at reasonable prices. Along with like-mother-made-it comfort food, he serves good dinner salads (dinner only, closed Mon, 30 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 85 15 21 30).

$ Café Med Crêperie, near the pedestrian bridge to Notre-Dame, is a tiny, cheery place with good-value salads, crêpes, pasta, and several meat dishes (daily, 77 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 43 29 73 17). Two less atmospheric crêperies are just across the street.

Ice Cream Dessert: Half the people strolling Ile St. Louis are licking an ice cream cone because this is the home of the famous les glaces Berthillon (now sold throughout Paris, though still made here on Ile St. Louis). The original Berthillon shop, at 31 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, is marked by the line of salivating customers (closed Mon-Tue). For a less famous but still satisfying treat, the Italian gelato a block away at Amorino Gelati is giving Berthillon competition (daily until late, no line, bigger portions, easier to see what you want, and they offer small tastes—Berthillon doesn’t need to, 47 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 44 07 48 08). Having a little of each is not a bad thing.

ILE DE LA CITÉ

These two eateries are near Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle on Ile de la Cité. For locations, see the “Historic Paris Walk” map on here.

$$ Les Deux Palais is a venerable bistro with old-school ambience that takes you back to the 1870s. With professional service, decent prices, and a convenient location facing Sainte-Chapelle (across from the exit), it’s handy for lunch or a drink while sightseeing (daily, 3 Boulevard du Palais, +33 1 34 54 20 86).

$$ Au Bougnat delivers traditional cuisine at very fair prices with oodles of character. It’s a short hop from Notre-Dame and where local cops and workers get sandwiches, coffee, and reasonably priced menus (closed Sun, 26 Rue Chanoinesse, +33 1 43 54 50 74).

LEFT BANK

Near the Odéon Theater

(Mo: Odéon)

$$$ Brasserie Bouillon Racine is an Art Nouveau carnival of carved wood, stained glass, and old-time lights reflected in beveled mirrors. Come for the convivial space, not the food. It’s like having dinner with Alphonse Mucha and a bunch of tourists. The over-the-top decor and energetic waiters create an inviting atmosphere. Check upstairs before choosing a table. There’s Belgian beer on tap and a fascinating history on the menu (daily, serves nonstop, 3 Rue Racine, +33 1 44 32 15 60).

$$$ La Méditerranée is all about seafood from the south served in a dressy pastel setting...with a similar clientele. The scene and the cuisine are formal yet accessible, and the view of the Odéon is formidable (daily, reservations smart, facing the Odéon at 2 Place de l’Odéon, +33 1 43 26 02 30, www.la-mediterranee.com).

$ Café de l’Odéon, on a square with the venerable theater, is a summer-only place to munch a simple meal with a stylish young crowd (service is outdoors-only in good weather). The menu offers a limited selection of cheese and meat platters at fair prices—you’ll feel like a winner eating light but well in such a Parisian setting (daily in summer, no reservations, good salads, reasonable plats, Place de l’Odéon, +33 7 72 36 69 13).

$$$ Le Comptoir Restaurant is a venerable splurge with a vintage interior where foodies enjoy classic dishes with a modern flair. Reservations are not accepted, but service is nonstop from noon, so arrive early to land a table in this lively and jammed streetside setting (daily, 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, +33 1 44 27 07 97).

$$ L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre and L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer are two stand-up-only hors d’oeuvres bars sitting next door to the mothership restaurant described above. They serve an array of French-Basque tapas on sleek zinc counters. De la Terre focuses on meats and food from the land, while de la Mer is all about seafood. Each is a long, narrow mosh pit of eaters, with the same formula and experience: illustrated menu cards hanging from the ceilings, loud music, tiny shelves for your drink and food, and a dike-like bar protecting the waitstaff from the commotion (daily, 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, +33 1 44 27 07 97).

$$ Breizh Café, described earlier in my Marais choices, also serves upscale crêpes a short hop off Boulevard St. Germain. The staff is welcoming, the outside terrace offers a classic perch on a busy street, and the interior has a stone-wall-and-oak-floor warmth. If tables are full, snag a spot at the bar (limited choices, daily, reservations smart, 1 Rue de l’Odéon, +33 1 42 49 34 73, www.breizhcafe.com).

$ Restaurant Polidor is the Parisian equivalent of a beloved neighborhood diner. A fixture here since 1845, it’s prized for its unpretentious quality cooking, lively old-Paris atmosphere, and fair value. Noisy, happy diners sit tightly at shared tables, savoring classic bourgeois plats from every corner of France. The drawers you see at the back on the left? They held napkins for regulars. The back room is quieter and less memorable (daily, reservations smart, 41 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, +33 1 43 26 95 34, www.polidor.com).

Between the Panthéon and the Cluny Museum

(Mo: Cluny La Sorbonne or RER/Train-B: Luxembourg)

$$$ Les Papilles is worth the walk. You’ll dine surrounded by bottles of wine in a warm, woody bistro and eat what’s offered...and you won’t complain. It’s one menu, no choices, and no regrets. Select your wine from the shelf or ask for advice from the burly, rugby-playing owner, then relax and let the food arrive. Reserve ahead and make sure that you’re OK with what he’s cooking (closed Sun-Mon, 30 Rue Gay-Lussac, +33 1 43 25 20 79, www.lespapillesparis.fr).

$$ Le Soufflot, named after the architect of the Panthéon, delivers dynamite views of the inspiring dome. Dine on café cuisine or just enjoy a drink (16 Rue Soufflot, +33 1 43 26 57 56).

Cafés on Place de la Sorbonne: Several cafés are on an appealing little square surrounding a gurgling fountain and facing Paris’ legendary Sorbonne University—just a block from the Cluny Museum. $$ Café de l’Ecritoire is handy for a simple brasserie lunch with salads, plats du jour, and seating inside and out.

IN MONTMARTRE, NEAR SACRE-CŒUR

For locations, see the “Montmartre” map on here.

$$$ Le Moulin de la Galette is a fine place to dine chez Renoir under the famous windmill. Along with the stylish decor, there’s well-respected classic French cuisine (daily, 83 Rue Lepic, +33 1 46 06 84 77).

$$$ Le Coq & Fils venerates poultry. The proud chef serves Paris’ best roast chicken, pigeon, or duck—slow cooked for three hours, then roasted and served with tasty fries and terrific desserts. Sharing a whole bird is best. No red meat or vegetarian options (daily, reservations smart, 98 Rue Lepic, +33 1 42 59 82 89, https://lecoq-fils.com).

$ L’Eté en Pente Douce is a good budget choice, hiding under some trees just downhill from the crowds on a classic neighborhood corner. It features cheery indoor and outdoor seating, cheap plats du jour and salads, vegetarian options, and good wines (daily, many steps below Sacré-Cœur to the left as you leave, 8 Rue Paul Albert, +33 1 42 64 02 67).

$$ Le Progrès is straight out of a movie, with a vintage wood-paneled interior and reasonably priced cuisine (daily, 7 Rue des Trois Frères, +33 1 42 64 07 37).

$ Le Relais Gascon is a pleasing bistro with a string of tables lining its front, a warm interior, and a focus on cuisine from France’s southwest regions (daily, serves nonstop from noon until late, 6 Rue des Abbesses, +33 1 42 58 58 22).

AT GARE DE LYON

$$$$ Le Train Bleu is a grandiose restaurant with a low-slung, leather-couch café-bar area built right into the train station for the Paris Exhibition of 1900 (which also saw the construction of the Pont Alexandre III and the Grand and Petit Palais). It’s simply a grand-scale-everything experience, with over-the-top belle époque decor that speaks of another age, when going to dinner was an event—a chance to see and be seen. Forty-one massive paintings of scenes along the old rail lines tempt diners to consider a getaway. Reserve ahead for dinner, or drop in for a drink before your train leaves (up the stairs opposite track L, Gare de Lyon, 4 Place Louis-Armand, +33 1 43 43 09 06, www.le-train-bleu.com).

Paris Connections

Whether you’re aiming to catch a train or plane, budget plenty of time to reach your departure point. Factor in traffic delays and walking time through huge stations and vast terminals.

BY PLANE

Charles de Gaulle Airport

Paris’ main airport (code: CDG, www.parisaeroport.fr/en/charles-de-gaulle-airport) has three terminals: T-1, T-2, and T-3. Major airlines from the US use T-1 or T-2. Connect the three terminals and several hotels with the free CDGVAL shuttle train (departs every 5 minutes, 24/7). Allow a full hour, gate-to-gate, to travel between terminals. All three terminals have access to ground transportation.

When leaving Paris, make sure you know which terminal you are departing from (if it’s T-2, you’ll also need to know which hall you’re leaving from—they’re labeled A through F).

Services: Terminals 1 and 2 have Paris Tourisme information desks, where you can get city maps, buy a Paris Museum Pass, and get tickets for the RoissyBus or RER/Train-B to Paris—a terrific time- and hassle-saver. You’ll also find ATMs (distributeurs) and currency-exchange desks, free Wi-Fi, shops, cafés, and bars. If you’re returning home and want a VAT refund, look for tax-refund centers in the check-in area.

Terminal 1 (T-1)

This small, circular terminal is easy to navigate. If arriving here by bus or taxi, walk around the terminal clockwise after passing customs to find RoissyBus, car-rental counters, and taxis (all well signed). The Paris Tourisme desk is to the left after passing customs. The CDGVAL shuttle train is on the first floor up, check-in for departing flights and most food services are on the third floor, and arrivals are on the fifth floor.

Terminal 2 (T-2)

This long, horseshoe-shaped terminal is divided into six halls, A through F. Prepare for long walks and short train rides to baggage claim and exits.

Shuttle buses (navettes) circulate between T-2 halls A, C, and F on the arrivals level. To find bus stops for RoissyBus, follow bus signs and bus icons from exit (sortie) 8 (see the “Charles de Gaulle Airport” map).

T-2 has a train station with RER trains into Paris and longer-distance trains to other areas of France, including high-speed TGV (InOui) trains. It’s located between T-2 C/D and T-2 E/F, below the Sheraton Hotel. It’s here where you’ll also find the poorly signed CDGVAL shuttle trains (just ask).

Car-rental offices, post offices, pharmacies, and ATMs are all well signed. T-2 E/F has duty-free shopping arcades, and other T-2 halls have smaller duty-free shops. You can stash your bags at Bagages du Monde, above the train station in T-2 (daily 6:00-21:30, www.bagagesdumonde.com).

Terminal 3 (T-3)

The smallest of the three terminals, T-3 serves mostly smaller, low-cost, and charter airlines. It has limited shops and food services, and no tourist office or car rental. You will find direct RER service to Paris and a stop for the CDGVAL shuttle train. The handy RER-B station and RoissyBus bus stop are a five-minute walk away at Roissypole. BlaBlaCar and FlixBus depart from here, as do shuttles to airport-area hotels.

Getting Between Charles de Gaulle Airport and Paris

Buses, RER trains, airport vans, and taxis link the airport’s terminals with central Paris. Total travel time to your hotel should be around 1.5 hours by bus and Métro, one hour by train and Métro, and 50 minutes by taxi. At the airport, buses and taxis require shorter walks than the RER train. Transfers to Métro lines often involve stairs and long corridors. For more information, check the “To & From” tab at ParisAeroport.fr/en/charles-de-gaulle-airport.

By RoissyBus: This bus drops you off at the Opéra Métro stop in central Paris (€16, runs 6:00-23:00, 3-4/hour, 50 minutes; buy ticket at airport Paris Tourisme desk, ticket machine, or on bus; www.ratp.fr [URL inactive]). The RoissyBus arrives on Rue Scribe close to two Métro entrances. For a taxi, walk to the front of the lavish Opéra.

By RER Train: Paris’ commuter RER/Train-B is the fastest public transit option for getting between the airport and the city center (€11.45, runs 5:00-24:00, 4/hour, about 35 minutes; you’ll see “RER” or “Train” on maps and signage). There are two RER/Train-B train stations at CDG airport: a busy one at Terminal 2 and a quiet one near Terminal 3 (called Roissypole). The two stations are connected to all terminals by frequent CDGVAL shuttle trains.

RER/Train-B runs directly to several central RER/Métro stations (including Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, St. Michel, and Luxembourg); from there, you can hop on the Métro to your destination. Although handy and cheap, RER/Train-B can require walking with your luggage through big, crowded stations—especially at Châtelet-Les Halles, where a transfer to the Métro can take 10 to 15 minutes and may include stairs.

To return to the airport on RER/Train-B from central Paris, allow plenty of time to get to your departure gate (plan for a 15-minute Métro or bus ride to the closest RER/Train-B station, a 15-minute wait for your train, a 35-minute train ride, plus walking time through the stations and airport). When you catch your train, make sure the sign over the platform shows Aéroport Roissy-Charles de Gaulle as a stop (not every RER/Train-B serves the airport). If you’re not clear, ask another rider, “Air-o-por sharl duh gohl?”

By Taxi or Uber: Taxis charge a flat rate into Paris (€62 to the Left Bank, €55 to the Right Bank). Taxis can comfortably carry three people with bags, and are legally required to accept a fourth passenger (beyond that, there’s an extra passenger supplement). Official taxi stands are well signed.

Have your hotel arrange taxi trips from Paris to the airport. Specify that you want a real taxi (un taxi normal), not a limo service that costs €20 more. For weekday-morning departures (7:00-10:00), reserve at least a day ahead (€7 reservation fee payable by credit card).

Uber offers Paris airport pickup and drop-off for the same rates as taxis, but since they can’t use the bus-only lanes (normal taxis can), expect some added time. Charles de Gaulle does not have a designated ride-sharing pickup point, making Uber a more complicated option. You’ll have to work out a meeting point with your driver.

Private Car Service: Inter Service Prestige is a reliable service with good rates (+33 7 62 23 23 31, www.isprestige.com).

Orly Airport

This easy-to-navigate airport (code: ORY, www.parisaeroport.fr/en/orly-airport) feels small, but it has all the services you’d expect at a major airport: ATMs and currency exchange, car-rental desks, cafés, shops, post offices, and more.

Orly has four terminals (1-4). At all terminals, arrivals are on the ground floor (level 0) and departures are on level 1. You can connect the terminals with the Orlyval shuttle train, which is free within the airport (well-signed).

Services: Paris Tourisme desks are in the arrivals area (a good spot to buy the Paris Museum Pass and tickets for public transit into Paris).

Getting Between Orly Airport and Paris

Trams, buses, the Métro, RER trains, and taxis connect Paris with Orly. Bus stops and taxis are centrally located at arrivals levels and are well signed.

By Métro: Sometime during 2024, Métro line 14 will connect Orly Airport with Paris, serving all stops on line 14, including Gare de Lyon, Châtelet, and Gare St-Lazare.

By Tram: For the cheapest (but slow) access to central Paris (best for the Marais area), take tram line 7 from outside Terminal 4 (direction: Villejuif-Louis Aragon) to the Villejuif station to catch Métro line 7 (you’ll need one fare for the tram and one for the Métro—buy a Navigo Easy card at the Paris Tourisme desk in the terminal, 4/hour, 45 minutes to Villejuif Métro station, then 15-minute Métro ride to the Marais).

By RER Train: Either the Orlybus or the Orlyval shuttle train will take you to RER/Train-B, with connections to the Luxembourg Garden area, Notre-Dame Cathedral, handy Métro line 1 at the Châtelet stop, Gare du Nord, and Charles de Gaulle Airport. You can use a Navigo Easy card with a €10.50 Orlybus add-on or Navigo Découverte pass for the Orlybus (and RER), but not the Orlyval shuttle train.

The Orlybus goes directly to the Denfert-Rochereau Métro and RER/Train-B station (€11.50, 3/hour, 30 minutes). The pricier but more frequent—and more comfortable—Orlyval shuttle train takes you to the Antony RER/Train-B station (€15.40—from ticket machine buy a “combination ticket” to central Paris, not the €12 ticket just to Antony, 6/hour, 40 minutes). Once at either RER/Train-B station, take the train in direction: Mitry-Claye or Aéroport Charles de Gaulle to reach central Paris.

For access to Left Bank neighborhoods (including Rue Cler) via RER/Train-C, take bus #183 from Terminal 4 to the Pont de Rungis station (€2, 10 minutes), then catch RER-C (€4.45) to St. Michel, Musée d’Orsay, Invalides, or Pont de l’Alma (direction: Versailles Château-Rive Gauche or Pontoise, 4/hour, 35 minutes).

By Taxi: Taxis wait outside baggage claim areas. Allow 30 minutes for a taxi ride into central Paris (fixed fare: €32 for Left Bank, €37 for Right Bank).

By Uber: Follow the signs to Ground Transportation and Baggage Claim, exit the terminal, and look for signs showing Passenger Pickups or TNC/Rideshares, then call or message your driver with your precise location.

Beauvais Airport

Budget airlines such as Ryanair use this small airport with two terminals (T-1 and T-2), offering dirt-cheap airfares but leaving you 50 miles north of Paris. Still, this airport has direct buses to Paris and is handy for travelers heading to Normandy or Belgium (car rental available). The airport is basic, waiting areas can be crowded, and services are sparse (code: BVA, www.aeroportparisbeauvais.com).

Getting Between Beauvais Airport and Paris

By Bus: Buses depart from a stop between the two terminals (€17 one-way, 2/hour, 1.5 hours to Paris, buy ticket online to save time, http://tickets.aeroportbeauvais.com [URL inactive]). Buses arrive at Porte Maillot on the west edge of Paris (where you can connect to Métro line 1 and RER/Train-C); the closest taxi stand is next door at the Hôtel Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile.

By Train: You’ll first connect from Beauvais Airport to the town’s train station: Take the Hôtel/Aéroport Navette shuttle or local buses #6 or #601 (4/hour, 25 minutes). From here, trains connect Beauvais’ city center and Paris’ Gare du Nord (1-2/hour, 1.5 hours).

By Taxi: Cabs run from Beauvais Airport to the Beauvais train station or city center (€20), or to central Paris (allow €180 and 1.5 hours).

Connecting Paris Airports

Charles de Gaulle and Orly

RER/Train-B connects Charles de Gaulle and Orly but requires a transfer to/from the Orlyval train. It’s faster than a taxi when there’s traffic (€24.60 for the RER and Orlyval trains, 5/hour, 1.5 hours). This line splits at both ends: Heading from Charles de Gaulle to Orly, take trains that serve the Antony stop (direction: St-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse), then transfer to the Orlyval shuttle train; heading from Orly to Charles de Gaulle, take trains that end at the airport—Aéroport Charles de Gaulle-Roissy, not Mitry-Claye (use Navigo Découverte or Navigo Easy card with five-zone add-on).

Taxis take about one hour and are easiest, but pricey (about €100, book online for best rates, https://city-airport-taxis.com).

Charles de Gaulle (or Orly) and Beauvais

You can connect Charles de Gaulle or Orly to Beauvais by train to Gare du Nord, then to the town of Beauvais. From there, you can take a shuttle, local bus, or taxi to Beauvais Airport. From Charles de Gaulle, take RER/Train-B to Gare du Nord; from Orly, take the Orlybus or Orlyval shuttle train (described under “Orly Airport”) to the RER train station to pick up RER/Train-B to Gare du Nord.

Taxis between Charles de Gaulle and Beauvais take one hour and cost about €120; from Orly, it’s about a 1.5-hour taxi ride and about €150 (https://city-airport-taxis.com).

BY TRAIN

In this section, I provide an overview of Paris’ major train stations and specialty train routes from Paris, including the Eurostar. For more details on train schedules, buying tickets, and using France’s long-distance rail system, see the Practicalities chapter.

Paris is Europe’s rail hub, with six major stations and one minor station, and trains heading in different directions:

• Gare du Nord (northbound trains)

• Gare Montparnasse (west- and southwest-bound trains)

• Gare de Lyon (southeast-bound trains)

• Gare de l’Est (eastbound trains)

• Gare St. Lazare (northwest-bound trains)

• Gare d’Austerlitz (southwest-bound trains)

• Gare de Bercy (smaller station mostly serving cities in Burgundy)

At any train station, you can get schedule information, make reservations, and buy tickets for any destination. The main train stations all have free Wi-Fi, banks or currency exchanges, ATMs, train information desks, cafés, newsstands, and clever pickpockets (pay attention in ticket lines—keep your bag firmly gripped in front of you). Not all have baggage checks.

Each station offers two types of rail service: long-distance to other cities, called Grandes Lignes (major lines, TGV—also called InOui—or slower, TER trains that serve smaller destinations and generally don’t require reservations); and commuter service to nearby areas, called Banlieue, Transilien, or RER train lines A-K. Ticket windows identified as Ile-de-France are for Transilien trains serving destinations just outside Paris (usually no more than an hour away). When arriving by Métro, follow signs for Grandes Lignes-SNCF to find the main tracks.

Paris train stations can be intimidating, but if you slow down and ask for help, you’ll find them manageable and efficient. All stations have a central information booth (accueil); bigger stations have roving helpers, usually wearing red or blue vests. They’re capable of answering rail questions more quickly than the staff at the information desks or ticket windows.

Gare du Nord

The granddaddy of Paris’ train stations serves cities in northern France and international destinations north of Paris, including Copenhagen, Amsterdam, and the Eurostar to London (see details later in this section). A helpful TI kiosk is opposite track 8.

Key Destinations Served by Gare du Nord Grandes Lignes: Brussels (at least hourly, 1.5 hours), Bruges (at least hourly, 3 hours, change in Brussels), Amsterdam (8/day direct, more with transfer, 3.5 hours), Berlin (6/day, 8.5 hours, change in Cologne or Dortmund), Koblenz (10/day, 5 hours, change in Cologne, more from Gare de l’Est that don’t cross Belgium), and London by Eurostar (1-2/hour, 2.5 hours).

By Banlieue/RER Lines: Charles de Gaulle Airport (4/hour, 35 minutes, track 41-44) and Pontoise (2/hour, 50 minutes).

Gare Montparnasse

This big, modern station covers three floors, serves lower Normandy and Brittany, and has TGV service to the Loire Valley and southwestern France, as well as suburban service to Chartres. Trains to Chartres usually depart from tracks 18-24.

Most services are provided on the top level (second floor up, Hall 1), where all trains arrive and depart. Baggage check (consignes) and WCs are by track 24, and the ticket office (billetterie) is by track 1. City buses are out front, between the train station and the Montparnasse Tower (down the escalator through the glassy facade). Bus #96 is good for connecting to Marais and Luxembourg-area hotels, while #92 is ideal for Rue Cler hotels (both easier than the Métro).

Key Destinations Served by Gare Montparnasse: Chartres (14/day, 1 hour), Amboise (10/day, 1.5-3 hours with change in St-Pierre-des-Corps, requires TGV reservation; non-TGV trains leave from Gare d’Austerlitz), Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (2-3/day, 4 hours, via Rennes or Caen), Dinan (6/day, 3 hours, change in Rennes and Dol), Bordeaux (hourly, 2.5 hours), Sarlat (4/day, 5 hours, change in Bordeaux), Toulouse (hourly, 4.5 hours, many with change in Bordeaux), Albi (almost hourly, 6.5 hours, change in Montauban or Toulouse), Tours (8/day, 1 hour), and Hendaye (8/day, 5 hours, connect here to San Sebastian by local train).

Gare de Lyon

This huge, bewildering station offers TGV and regular service to southeastern France, Italy, Switzerland, and other international destinations. Grandes Lignes and Banlieue lines share the same tracks. Platforms are divided into two areas: Hall 1 (tracks A-N) and Hall 2 (tracks 5-23). Hall 3 is underground with more ticket offices, food services, and quieter waiting areas—but no trains.

Hall 2 has the best services—including a train-information office, a pharmacy, and a handy Monop grocery store. You’ll find baggage check (consignes) in Hall 2 down the ramp, opposite track 17, and in Hall 1, downstairs by track M. Don’t leave the station without at least taking a peek at the recommended Le Train Bleu Restaurant in Hall 1, up the stairs opposite tracks G-L (no elevator, see listing on here).

Key Destinations Served by Gare de Lyon: Beaune (roughly hourly at rush hour but few midday, 2.5 hours, most require change in Dijon), Dijon (TGV trains only, roughly hourly, 1.5 hours; see Gare de Bercy for local trains), Chamonix (6/day, 7 hours, two changes, some change in Switzerland), Annecy (hourly, 4 hours, many with change in Lyon), Lyon (at least hourly, 2 hours), Avignon (10/day direct, 2.5 hours to Avignon TGV station; 8/day, 3.5 hours to Avignon Centre-Ville Station), Arles (11/day, 4 hours), Nice (hourly, 6 hours, may require change; night train available, 12 hours), Carcassonne (10/day, 5-6 hours, 1-2 changes), Zürich (4/day direct, 4 hours; more with transfer, 6 hours), Venice (7/day, 11 hours with 1-3 changes), Rome (7/day, 12 hours, 1-3 changes), Bern (8/day with change in Basel, 4.5 hours), Interlaken (8/day with change in Basel, 6 hours, 8/day more from Gare de l’Est), and Barcelona (2-4/day direct, 7 hours).

Gare de l’Est

This two-floor station (with underground Métro and mini shopping mall) serves northeastern France and international destinations east of Paris. All trains depart at street level from tracks 1-30. Separate monitors show Ile-de-France and Grandes Lignes departures.

A train-information and ticket office is opposite track 7 and around the corner. Most other services are on the floor below, opposite tracks 12-20 (baggage check, car rental, WC, small grocery store, and Métro access). Access to taxis and buses is in front of the station.

Key Destinations Served by Gare de l’Est: Colmar (12/day by TGV, 2.5 hours, 3 direct, others change in Strasbourg), Strasbourg (hourly by TGV, under 2 hours), Reims Centre station (6/day by direct TGV, 45 minutes, more with transfer in Champagne-Ardenne, 75 minutes), Verdun (5/day direct to Meuse TGV station and shuttle bus, 2 hours; 3 hours with transfer), Interlaken (12/day, 6 hours, 1-2 changes, faster trains from Gare de Lyon), Zürich (12/day, 5-7 hours, 1-2 changes, faster direct trains from Gare de Lyon), Frankfurt (4 direct/day, 4 hours; more with change in Karlsruhe, 4.5 hours), Munich (1/day direct, 6/day with 1 change, 6 hours), and Berlin (6/day, 8.5 hours, 1 change; trains run via Germany, not Belgium).

Gare St. Lazare

This compact station serves upper Normandy, including Rouen and Giverny. All trains arrive and depart one floor above street level.

From the Métro, follow signs to Grandes Lignes to reach the tracks a few floors up (escalators available). On departure monitors, purple squares are for tracks 1-11, green for tracks 12-21, and blue for tracks 22-27. Most Grandes Lignes to Normandy depart from tracks 22-27 (though a few depart from the Ile-de-France section). Ile-de-France trains depart from 1-16. Baggage check is available near the station at Annexx Lockers (6 Rue de Constantinople, www.lockers.fr).

Key Destinations Served by Gare St. Lazare: Giverny (train to Vernon, about hourly, 1 hour; then bus to Giverny, 2/hour, 15 minutes), Pontoise (1-2/hour, 40 minutes), Rouen (nearly hourly, 1.5 hours), Le Havre (hourly, 2.5 hours, some change in Rouen), Honfleur (13/day, 2-3.5 hours, via Lisieux, Deauville, or Le Havre, then bus), Bayeux (hourly, 2.5 hours, several direct, most change in Caen), Caen (hourly, 2.5 hours), and Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (4/day, 4-5.5 hours, via Caen; more trains from Gare Montparnasse).

Gare d’Austerlitz

This small station provides non-TGV service to the Loire Valley and southwestern France. All tracks are at street level. Baggage check and WCs are at “Espaces Services,” near track 1. To get to the Métro and RER/Train-C, you must walk outside and along either side of the station.

Key Destinations Served by Gare d’Austerlitz: Orly Airport (via RER/Train-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes to the Pont de Rungis station, then take bus #183), Versailles (via RER/Train-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes), Amboise (10/day, 2 hours direct, 2.5 hours with transfer, usually in Orléans), and Blois (12/day, 1.5 hours direct, 2 hours with transfer, usually in Orléans).

Gare de Bercy

This smaller station mostly handles southbound non-TGV trains such as to Dijon (6/day, 3 hours), but some TGV trains also stop here in peak season (Mo: Bercy, one stop east of Gare de Lyon on line 14, exit the Bercy Métro station and it’s across the street). Facilities are limited—just a WC and a sandwich-fare takeout café.

By Eurostar

To London: The Eurostar zips you from Gare du Nord in downtown Paris to St. Pancras station in downtown London at 190 mph in 2.5 hours (about hourly). The tunnel crossing under the English Channel is a 20-minute, silent, 100 mph nonevent. Your ears won’t even pop.

A one-way ticket between London and Paris can vary widely in price: for instance, $60-275 (Standard class), $150-375 (Standard Premier), and $400 (Business Premier). Fares depend on how far ahead you reserve and whether you’re eligible for discounts.

Buy tickets ahead at RickSteves.com/Rail or at Eurostar.com. In continental Europe, you can buy Eurostar tickets at any major train station in any country or at any travel agency that handles train tickets (booking fee). If you have a Eurail Global Pass, you’ll need to pay for seat reservations (available at Eurostar departure stations, Eurail.com, or by phone with Eurostar; can sell out).

Arrive early to go through security and passport control (must be completed at least 30 minutes before departure—and there can be lines).

To Amsterdam and Brussels: The Eurostar also connects Paris with Amsterdam and Brussels. Check the schedule and book early for the best rates (www.eurostar.com).

BY BUS OR CAR

Buses run by FlixBus or BlaBlaCar generally provide the cheapest—if more time-consuming—transportation between French cities, airports, and popular destinations without convenient rail connections (such as Mont St-Michel). See the Practicalities chapter for details.

Drivers in Paris should prepare for monumental traffic jams during rush hour and slow driving at any time of day. Street parking is generally free at night (20:00-9:00) and all day Sunday. Meters limit street parking to a maximum of two hours; a full day on the street will cost you about €65. Underground garages are plentiful in Paris; for locations, see www.parisfranceparking.com. Some hotels offer discounted parking—ask your hotelier.