PRACTICALITIES
RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES
Map: France’s Public Transportation
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.
Travel Tips
Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, at Travel.State.gov (US State Department travel pages) and CDC.gov (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention). The US embassy website for France is another good source of information (see later).
While most countries no longer require proof of Covid-19 vaccination for entry, some sights or tours may still have vaccination requirements (check websites). Even if it’s not required for your itinerary, it’s smart to pack a copy of your vaccine record and/or store a photo of your Covid-19 vaccine card on your phone.
ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering France and other Schengen Zone countries (quick and easy process). For the latest, check https://travel-europe.europa.eu/etias_en.
Tourist Information: The French national tourist office is a wealth of information. Before your trip, scan their website—http://us.france.fr. It has particularly good resources for special-interest travel and plenty of free-to-download brochures. Paris’ official TI website, www.parisinfo.com, offers practical information on hotels, special events, museums, children’s activities, fashion, nightlife, and more.
In France, a good first stop is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). TIs are in business to help you spend money in their town—which can color their advice—but I still swing by to pick up a city map and get info on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Towns with a lot of tourism generally have English-speaking guides available for private hire through the TI (about €100-150 for a 2-hour guided town walk).
The French call TIs by different names: Office de Tourisme and Bureau de Tourisme are used in cities; Syndicat d’Initiative and Information Touristique are used in small towns. Also look for Accueil signs in airports and at popular sights. These information booths are staffed with seasonal helpers who provide tourists with limited, though generally sufficient, information. Smaller TIs are often closed from 12:00 to 14:00 and on Sundays.
Trip-Planning Services: Several private companies offer trip-planning services for a fee. Detours in France offers self-drive itinerary packages, hotel bookings, and guided tours of any region in France (+33 09 83 20 71 56, www.detours-in-france.com).
Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 (operators typically speak English). For hearing-assisted help for all services, dial 114. If you get sick, do as the French do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy or consulate (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen items, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For help with a lost phone, see “Damage Control for Lost Phones” on here. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.
US Consulates and Embassies: Appointment required, http://fr.usembassy.gov. Paris +33 1 43 12 22 22 (2 Avenue Gabriel, to the left as you face Hôtel Crillon, Mo: Concorde). Lyon +33 1 43 12 48 60 (2 Rue Président Carnot). Marseille +33 1 43 12 47 54 (Place Varian Fry).
Canadian Consulate and Embassy: Appointment required, www.canadainternational.gc.ca/france. Paris +33 1 44 43 29 00 (130 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Mo: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule). Lyon +33 4 78 84 39 19 (3 Place de la Bourse). Nice +33 4 93 13 17 19 (37 Boulevard Dubouchage).
Time Zones: France, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).
Business Hours: You’ll find much of rural France closed weekdays from 12:00 to 14:00 (lunch is sacred). On Sunday, most businesses are closed (family is sacred), though some small shops such as boulangeries (bakeries) are open until noon, special events and weekly markets pop up, and museums are open all day (but public transportation options are limited). On Mondays, some businesses are closed until 14:00 and possibly all day. Smaller towns are often quiet and downright boring on Sundays and Mondays, unless it’s market day.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and appliances (hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.
Rip up this book! Turn chapters into mini guidebooks: Break the book’s spine and use a utility knife to slice apart chapters, keeping gummy edges intact. Reinforce the chapter spines with clear wide tape, use a heavy-duty stapler, or make or buy a cheap cover (see the Travel Store at RickSteves.com), swapping out chapters as you travel.
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, youths under 18 and students and teachers with proper identification cards (www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Seniors age 65 and over may get the odd discount, but don’t get your hopes up. To inquire about a senior discount, ask, “Réduction troisième âge?” (ray-dewk-see-ohn trwah-zee-ehm ahzh). Some discounts are available only to European citizens. However, non-European seniors (ages 60+) can get a 30 percent discount on all SNCF train fares with a reasonably priced Carte Avantage Senior card (see here).
Online Translation Tips: The Google Translate app converts spoken or typed English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera. Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com and DeepL.com are also handy.
Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint when traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them), and turn the air-conditioning off when you leave the room. Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, see RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.
Money
Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Europe. I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Credit Card: You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big (hotels, advance tickets) and small (little shops, food stands). Some European businesses have gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is widely accepted and simplest to use.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw a small amount of local cash. For the most part, it’s best to wait until you arrive to get euros (European cities have plenty of ATMs); if you buy euros before your trip, you’ll pay bad stateside exchange rates. While many transactions are by card these days, cash can help you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work, and can be useful to pay for things like tips and local guides.
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.
Stash of Cash: For an emergency reserve, in most of Europe bring dollars. But in France, consider bringing €200 (bring euros, as dollars can be hard to change in France).
BEFORE YOU GO
Know your cards. For credit cards, Visa and Mastercard are universal while American Express and Discover are less common. US debit cards with a Visa or Mastercard logo will work in any European ATM.
Go “contactless.” Contactless pay options are now standard in much of Europe. Check to see if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines) and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section for details). Both options are more secure than a physical credit card: Instead of recording your credit-card number, a one-time encrypted “token” enables the purchase and expires shortly afterward.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.
Report your travel dates. Some banks want to know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards overseas, specifically when and where you’re headed. Depending on your bank, you can do this either online or over the phone.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can withdraw daily and ask for a higher daily limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not savings accounts.
Find out about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or Mastercard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). Shop around; you can compare credit cards on Bankrate.com. Some cards offer lower international fees than others—and some don’t charge any at all. If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new card. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.
IN EUROPE
Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps
Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: These cards have the usual chip and/or magnetic stripe, but with the addition of a contactless symbol. Simply tap your card against a contactless reader to complete a transaction—no PIN or signature required (except in some cases as a security measure for larger purchases). This is by far the easiest way to pay and is available in much of Europe.
Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. To pay, hold your phone near a contactless reader; you may need to verify the transaction with a face scan, fingerprint scan, or passcode. If you’ve arrived in Europe without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone to work in this way. Note that Venmo does not work in France.
Will My US Card Work? Usually, yes. On rare occasions, you may run into a situation where your card doesn’t work. This is most likely at self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks, tollbooths, or fuel pumps). Usually a tap-to-pay card does the trick in these situations. If not, look for a cashier who can process your payment manually, or use cash. Drivers should be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. (In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card.) When approaching a toll plaza or ferry ticket line, use the “cash” lane.
Always Choose to Pay in the Local Currency: During a credit card transaction, the payment terminal will often ask whether you want to pay in US dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While this “service”—called Dynamic Currency Conversion (DCC)—offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate and/or higher fees, and you’ll wind up losing money.
Using Cash
Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars. In Europe, the universal term for an ATM is “bankomat”; in France ask for a distributeur (dee-stree-bew-tur).
The best option is an ATM operated by a bank, which offers local cash calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate. Look for a cash machine marked with a bank logo, and ideally use one just outside a brick-and-mortar bank (in the rare event that you have any issues).
You’ll more commonly see cash machines run by exchange or money-transfer companies, which have unfavorable rates, higher fees, or both. These can be marked Euronet, Travelex, Your Cash, and Cashzone—or simply marked generically, as “bankomat” or “ATM.” Avoid these unless you enjoy paying too much for your local cash.
Rip-off exchange ATMs are often the only option at airports and train stations. On arrival, consider using a cashless payment option to get downtown, then find a real bank near your hotel to withdraw local currency.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later. When offered the choice to process your transaction in US dollars or the local currency, always choose the local currency for the best rates.
Exchanging Cash: Minimize exchanging money in Europe; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). In a pinch, you can find exchange desks at major train stations or airports. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
Security Tips
Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your passport and backup cash and cards secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money and one card in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front of the machine. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Avoid using a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).
Damage Control for Lost Cards
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to your bank (using a secure app) or the following global customer-assistance centers. With a mobile phone, call these 24-hour US numbers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), Mastercard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111).
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see RickSteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.
TIPPING
Tipping (donner un pourboire) in France isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: At cafés and restaurants, a service charge is included in the price of what you order, and it’s unnecessary to tip extra, though you can for helpful service. If paying with a credit card, be prepared to tip separately with cash or coins; credit card receipts usually don’t have a tip line. For details on tipping in restaurants, see “Eating,” later.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €13, pay €14). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.
Services: For local guides, private drivers, or others who spend several hours with you, and significantly improve the quality of your trip, a healthy tip (of around 10 percent) is not extravagant. In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a good job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
GETTING A VAT REFUND
Wrapped into the purchase price of your French souvenirs is a value-added tax (VAT) of about 20 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €175 worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.
At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document, called a bordereau de détaxe (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Europe.
At the Border or Airport: Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds (allow plenty of extra time to deal with this process and have your purchased items easily accessible for inspection). At some airports, you’ll go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. Elsewhere, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing, or you may be able to do it at a self-validation kiosk. (Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee, but you’re paying for the convenience of receiving your money in cash immediately or as a credit to your card.) Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant.
CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to France’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS
Your best navigation tool is on your phone. Google Maps (and similar mapping apps) offer turn-by-turn directions for walking and driving, as well as detailed public transit instructions in most big cities. Simply plug in a destination and instantly get detailed directions for reaching it on foot or by subway, bus, or tram—including where to catch it, how long it takes, where to get off, and how far you’ll walk at the other end.
To conserve data, most mapping apps let you download maps in advance (do this when you’re on strong Wi-Fi). However, offline maps may not include every feature (most in-city public transit navigation doesn’t work offline). For more on how to get online with your phone during your trip, see here.
For offline navigation, the maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Europe, simple paper maps are generally free at TIs and hotels; maps with more detail are sold at newsstands and bookstores.
PLAN AHEAD
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see the “At a Glance” sidebars for many of the destinations in this book. Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking their websites.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Opening days and hours can fluctuate; confirm the latest with the TI or at the sight’s official website (listed throughout this book).
Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.
If you plan to hire a local guide (recommended in this book and at local TIs), reserve well ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES
Many popular sights in France come with long ticket-buying lines. Visitors who buy tickets online in advance (and in Paris, a Museum Pass covering key sights) can skip the line and waltz right in. Advance tickets are generally timed-entry, meaning you’re guaranteed admission on a certain date and time.
For some sights, buying ahead is required (tickets aren’t sold at the sight and it’s the only way to get in). At other sights, buying ahead is recommended to skip the line and save time. And for many sights, advance tickets are available but unnecessary: At these uncrowded sights you can simply arrive, buy a ticket, and go in.
Don’t confuse the reservation options: available, recommended, and required. Use my advice in this book as a guide. If you do your research, you’ll know the smart strategy.
You’ll generally be emailed an eticket with a QR or bar code that you’ll store on your phone to scan at the entrance (if you prefer, you can print it out). Look for the ticket-holders line rather than the ticket-buying line; you may still have to wait in a security line.
Several cities offer sightseeing passes (listed in this book) that can be worthwhile values. Another smart choice is to buy a Paris Museum Pass, which can save you money and speed you through lines at some covered sights. For details on the advance ticketing and the Paris Museum Pass, see the Paris chapter.
AT SIGHTS
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check day packs and coats. (If you’d rather not check your day pack, try carrying it tucked under your arm as you enter.)
At churches—which often offer interesting art (usually free) and a cool, welcome seat—a modest dress code (no bare shoulders or shorts) is encouraged though rarely enforced.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Audioguides and Apps: For those visiting Paris, I’ve produced a free, downloadable audio tour for my Historic Paris Walk, plus tours of the Louvre, Orsay Museum, Rue Cler, Versailles, and Père Lachaise Cemetery. For more on my audio tours, see here.
Some sights offer audioguides with worthwhile recorded descriptions in English. Often you’ll use free Wi-Fi to download the tour to your mobile device on the spot; less frequently you’ll borrow or rent a device preloaded with the audio content at the museum. Bring your own plug-in earbuds to enjoy better sound (with a splitter, two can often share one rented device).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item. Say the title or artist’s name, or point to the photograph in this book and ask for its location by asking, “Où est?” (oo ay).
Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy and air-conditioned places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.
Sleeping
Good-value accommodations in France are generally easy to find, if you book far enough ahead. Choose from one- to five-star hotels (two and three stars are my mainstays), bed-and-breakfasts (chambres d’hôtes, usually cheaper than hotels), hostels, campgrounds, and vacation homes (gîtes, rented by the week).
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping section. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to sightseeing.
My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for French traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and a fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a spa. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. Reserving ahead is particularly important for Paris—the sooner, the better. Doing so usually saves you money, as room rates often rise dramatically the closer you reserve to your arrival date. Wherever you’re staying, be ready for larger crowds in May and September and during these holiday periods: Easter weekend, Labor Day, Ascension weekend, Pentecost weekend, Bastille Day and the week during which it falls, and the winter holidays (mid-Dec-early Jan). Note that many holiday weekends fall in May, jamming French hotels. In August and at other times when business is slower, some Paris hotels offer lower rates to fill their rooms. Check hotel websites for the best deals. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in France.
RATES AND DEALS
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant.
Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking hotel websites and booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself, by phone, email, or on the hotel’s website. This increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). When you book direct, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites—in exchange, ask if they can give you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast. French hotels recently won the right to undercut Booking.com and Hotels.com prices on their websites; virtually all offer lower rates if you book direct. If the price they quote is higher than the offer on a booking site, let the hotel know, and they’ll usually adjust the rate.
Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this book by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show it upon arrival, and sometimes stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
Room Taxes: Hotels in France must charge a daily tax (taxe du séjour) of about €1-4 per person per day (based on the number of stars the hotel has). Some hotels include it in their prices, but most add it to your bill.
TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS
Hotels
In this book, the price for a double room will normally range from €80 to €400 (luxurious lobbies and rooms), with most clustering around €100-150 (with private bathrooms and air-conditioning).
Most hotels also offer single and triple rooms, and some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple. A triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
The French have a simple hotel rating system based on amenities and rated by stars (indicated in this book by asterisks, from * through *****). One star is modest, two has most of the comforts, and three is generally a two-star with a fancier lobby and more elaborately designed rooms. Four-star places give a bit more comfort than those with three. Five stars probably offer more luxury than you’ll have time to appreciate. Two-star-and-above hotels are required to have an English-speaking staff, though nearly all hotels I recommend have someone who speaks English.
The number of stars does not always reflect room size or guarantee quality. One- and two-star hotels are less expensive, but some three-star and four-star hotels offer good value, justifying the extra cost. Unclassified hotels (no stars) can be bargains...or depressing dumps.
Within each hotel, prices vary depending on the size of the room, whether it has a tub or shower, and the bed type (tubs and twins usually cost more than showers and double beds). If you have a preference, ask for it. Hotels often have more rooms with tubs (which the French prefer) and are inclined to give you one by default. You can save lots by finding the rare room without a private shower or toilet.
Most French hotels have queen-size beds in double rooms—to confirm, ask, “Avez-vous des lits queen-size?” (ah-vay-voo day lee queen-size). Many hotels push two twins together under king-size sheets and blankets to make le king-size. If you’ll take either twins or a double, ask for a generic une chambre pour deux (room for two) to avoid being needlessly turned away. Some hotels have a few family-friendly rooms that open up to each other (chambres communiquantes).
Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.
Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. If stairs are unavoidable, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up.
Most European countries require hotels to collect your name, nationality, and passport number. At check-in, the receptionist might ask for your passport and may keep it for several hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to give them instead.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV and free Wi-Fi, which can vary in strength and quality.
Some places provide quilts as the only bed covering. While comfortable, they’re warm in summers (forcing me to use air-conditioning)—ask the hotel for a sheet (uhn drah) for cooler sleeping.
Breakfast and Meals: Most hotels offer breakfast, but it’s rarely included in the room rates—pay attention when comparing rates between hotels (though some offer free breakfast to Rick Steves readers or with direct booking, and are noted in this book). The price of breakfast correlates with the price of the room: The more expensive the room, the more expensive the breakfast. This per-person charge rises with the number of stars the hotel has and can add up, particularly for families. While hotels hope you’ll buy their breakfast, it’s optional unless otherwise noted; to save money, head to a bakery or café instead.
Some hoteliers, especially in resort towns, strongly encourage their peak-season guests to take demi-pension (half-pension)—that is, breakfast and either lunch or dinner. By law, they can’t require you to take half-pension unless you are staying three or more nights, but, in practice, some do during high season. And though the food is usually good, it limits your ability to shop around. I’ve indicated where I think demi-pension is a good value. Hoteliers uniformly detest it when people bring food into bedrooms. Dinner picnics are particularly frowned upon: Hoteliers worry about cleanliness, smells, and attracting insects. Be tidy and considerate.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it’s smart to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in. Some hoteliers will ask you to sign their Livre d’Or (literally “Golden Book,” for client comments). They take this seriously and enjoy reading your remarks.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to calling an English-speaking doctor, or finding a good restaurant, a late-night pharmacy, or a self-service launderette (laverie automatique, lah-veh-ree oh-to-mah-teek).
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.
If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I rarely bother to use one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
Modern Hotel Chains: France is littered with ultramodern hotels, providing drivers with low-stress accommodations often located just outside town. The clean and inexpensive Ibis Budget chain (about €55/room for up to three people), the more attractive and spacious standard Ibis hotels (€120-175 for a double), and the cushier Mercure and Novotel hotels (€175-300 for a double) are all run by the same company, Accor (www.accorhotels.com). Though hardly quaint, these can be a good value (look for deals on their websites), particularly when they’re centrally located; I list several in this book. Other chains to consider are Kyriad, with moderate prices and good quality (www.kyriad.com), and the familiar-to-Americans Best Western (www.bestwestern.com). Château and Hotels Collection has more cushy digs (www.lescollectionneurs.com).
Bed & Breakfasts
B&Bs (chambres d’hôte, abbreviated “CH”) generally are found in smaller towns and rural areas. They’re usually family-run and a good deal, offering double the cultural intimacy for less than most hotels. While you may lose some hotel conveniences—such as lounges, TVs, daily bed-sheet changes, and credit-card payments—I happily make the trade-off for the personal touch and lower rates. It’s always OK to ask to see the room before you commit. And though some CHs post small Chambres or Chambres d’hôte signs in their front windows, many are found only through the local tourist office.
I recommend reliable CHs that offer a good value and/or unique experience (such as CHs in renovated mills, châteaux, and wine domaines). For a list of over 21,000 chambres d’hôte throughout France, check www.chambres-hotes.fr. You can see images of places to stay, make a reservation, and get directions for any listing on the website. While chambres d’hôte have their own star-rating system, it doesn’t correspond to the hotels’ rating system. To avoid confusion, I haven’t listed these stars for CHs. But virtually all my recommended CHs have private in-room bathrooms and Wi-Fi, some have common rooms with refrigerators and kitchenettes, and some are air-conditioned. Doubles generally cost €70-100; fancier places are about €100-150. Breakfast is usually included, but not always—ask. Tables d’hôte are CHs that offer an optional home-cooked dinner (usually a great value, must be requested in advance). And though your hosts may not speak English, they will almost always be enthusiastic and pleasant.
Gîtes
Countryside gîtes (pronounced “zheet”) are usually urbanites’ second, countryside homes, rentable by the week, from Saturday to Saturday. Gîtes are best for drivers (they’re usually rural, with little public-transport access) and ideal for families and small groups (since they can sleep many for the same price). Homes range in comfort from simple cottages and farmhouses to restored châteaux (BYO soap, shampoo, etc.). Sheets or linens may be included or provided for a bit extra. Like hotels, all gîtes are rated for comfort from one to four épis (ears of corn). Two or three épis generally indicate sufficient quality, but I’d look for three for more comfort. Prices generally range from €500 to €1,500 per week, depending on house size and amenities such as pools. Some owners may not speak English, so be prepared to do business in French.
For more information on gîtes, visit www.gites-de-france.com (with the most rentals) or www.gite.com [URL inactive]. Also check sites like Airbnb and HomeAway/VRBO (see next).
Short-Term Rentals
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, a house, or a room in a private residence—is a popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and VRBO let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com and RentaVilla.com can provide more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive). For a list of rental agencies in Paris, see here.
Or try France Homestyle, which handpicks every home and apartment they list (US +1 206 325 0132, www.francehomestyle.com, info@francehomestyle.com).
Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to public transportation, and how well connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-con, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
Think about the kind of experience you want: just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self-check-in and minimal contact; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require payment in full before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to conduct your transaction outside the listing site; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place for several nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or house. These can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.
Rooms in Private Homes: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some are interested in getting to know the travelers who pass through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com.
Hotel Barges
These are a fun option in canalside towns; I’ve listed a few in this book. If you’re interested in renting one for more than a night or two, try Papillon Barge (https://frenchcanalboatcompany.com), French Country Waterways (www.fcwl.com), or the cheaper bed-and-breakfast Barge Nilaya (+33 6 51 25 78 46, www.bargenilaya.fr). For a comprehensive source on enjoying the rivers and canals of France, check www.french-waterways.com.
Hostels
A hostel (auberge de jeunesse) provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for about €40 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share a booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.
Hip Hop Hostels is a clearinghouse for budget hotels and hostels in Paris. It’s worth a look for its good selection of cheap accommodations (+ 33 1 48 78 10 00, www.hiphophostels.com).
Camping
In Europe, camping is more of a social than an environmental experience. It’s a great way for American travelers to make European friends. Camping sites average about €20-30 per night, and almost every destination recommended in this book has a campground within a reasonable walk or bus ride from the town center and train station. A tent, pillow, and sleeping bag are all you need. Some campgrounds have small grocery stores and washing machines, and some even come with cafés and miniature golf. Local TIs have camping information. You’ll find more detailed information in the annually updated Michelin Camping France, available in the United States and at most French bookstores.
Eating
The French eat long and well. Relaxed and tree-shaded lunches with a chilled rosé, three-hour dinners, and endless hours of sitting in outdoor cafés are the norm. Here, celebrated restaurateurs are as famous as great athletes, and mamas hope their babies will grow up to be great chefs. Cafés, cuisine, and wines should become a highlight of any French adventure: It’s sightseeing for your palate. Even if the rest of you is sleeping in a cheap hotel, let your taste buds travel first-class in France.
You can eat well without going broke—but choose carefully: You’re just as likely to blow a small fortune on a mediocre meal as you are to dine wonderfully for €25. Read the information that follows and consider my restaurant suggestions in this book.
For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big signs boasting, “We Speak English.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price. In Paris, restaurant lunches are a great value, as most places offer the same quality and similar selections for far less than at dinner. If you’re on a budget or just like going local, try making lunch your main meal, then have a lighter evening meal at a café.
RESTAURANT PRICING AND HOURS
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a taste of the local cuisine at a reasonable price.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion-swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and refined cuisine.
Most of my restaurant listings are open daily for lunch and dinner; I’ve noted exceptions.
BREAKFAST
Most hotels serve an optional breakfast, which is usually pleasant and convenient (generally €12-20, price rises proportionately with room cost). Almost all offer a buffet breakfast (cereal, yogurt, fruit, cheese, ham, croissants, juice, and hard-boiled eggs). Some add scrambled eggs and sausage. Before committing to breakfast, check to see if it’s included in your room rate; if not, scan the offerings to be sure it’s to your liking. Once committed, it’s self-service and as much as you want. Coffee is usually self-serve as well. If there’s no coffee machine and you want to make your own café au lait, find the hot milk and mix it with your coffee. If your hotelier serves your coffee, ask for café avec du lait. For your basic American-style coffee (black and not too strong), ask for café allongé (ah-lohn-jay).
Breakfast is a great time to try the country’s delightful array of breads, pastries, jams, and more. Many hotels and B&Bs take pride in serving these extremely fresh—often with a different selection each day.
If all you want is coffee or tea and a croissant, the corner café or bakery offers more atmosphere and is less expensive (though you get more coffee at your hotel). Go local at a café and ask for une tartine (ewn tart-een), a baguette slathered with butter or jam. If you crave eggs for breakfast, order une omelette or œufs sur le plat (fried eggs). Some cafés and bakeries offer worthwhile breakfast deals with juice, croissant, and coffee or tea for about €8-12 (for more on coffee and tea drinks, see the “Beverages” section, later).
To keep it cheap, pick up some fruit at a grocery store and pastries at your favorite boulangerie and have a picnic breakfast, then savor your coffee at a café bar (comptoir) while standing, like the French do.
PICNIC DINING AND FOOD TO GO
Whether going all out on a perfect French picnic or simply grabbing a sandwich to eat on an atmospheric square, dining with the town as your backdrop can be one of your most memorable meals.
Picnics
Great for lunch or dinner, French picnics can be first-class affairs and adventures in high cuisine. Be daring. Try the smelly cheeses, strange-looking pâtés, and minuscule yogurts. You’ll find tasty inexpensive sandwiches, to-go salads, quiches, crêpes, and high-quality takeout at bakeries, charcuteries, and market stands (see “Assembling a Picnic,” next).
Shopkeepers are accustomed to selling small quantities of produce. Get a succulent takeaway salad and ask for a fork. While single-use plastic cups and silverware are no longer allowed in France, biodegradable ones should be available at grocery stores. Plastic bags are not available at markets; bring or buy your own bag (cheap at stores and very handy) or day pack for carrying items.
If you need a knife or corkscrew, buy it cheap at a grocery shop or borrow one from your hotelier (but please don’t picnic in your room, as French hoteliers uniformly detest this). Though drinking wine in public places is taboo in the US, it’s pas de problème in France. Wine merchants sell chilled, picnic-friendly bottles that they’ll happily open for you. Scenic picnic sites are everywhere.
Assembling a Picnic: Visit several small stores to put together a complete meal. Shop early, as many shops close from 13:00 to 14:00 for their lunch break. Say “Bonjour madame/monsieur” as you enter, then point to what you want and say, “S’il vous plaît.” For other terminology you might need while shopping, see the sidebar.
At the boulangerie (bakery), buy some bread. A baguette usually does the trick, or choose from the many loaves of bread on display: pain aux céréales (whole grain with seeds), pain de campagne (country bread, made with unbleached bread flour), pain complet (wheat bread), or pain de seigle (rye bread). To ask for it sliced, say “Tranché, s’il vous plaît.”
At the pâtisserie (pastry shop, which is often the same place you bought the bread), choose a dessert that’s easy to eat with your hands. My favorites are éclairs (chocolat or café flavored), individual fruit tartes (framboise is raspberry, fraise is strawberry, citron is lemon), and macarons (made of flavored cream sandwiched between two meringues).
At the crémerie or fromagerie (cheese shop), choose a sampling of cheeses (un assortiment). I usually get one hard cheese (like Comté, Cantal, or Beaufort), one soft cow’s milk cheese (like Brie or Camembert), one goat’s milk cheese (anything that says chèvre), and one blue cheese (Roquefort or Bleu d’Auvergne). Goat cheese usually comes in individual portions. For all other large cheeses, point to the cheese you want and ask for une petite tranche (a small slice). The shopkeeper will show you the size of the slice about to be cut, then look at you for approval. If you’d like more, say, “Plus.” If you’d like less, say “Moins.” If it’s just right, say “C’est bon!”
Market day (jour de marché) is a big deal throughout France. They have been a central feature of life in rural areas since the Middle Ages. No single event better symbolizes the French preoccupation with fresh products—and their strong ties to the soil—than the weekly market. Many locals mark their calendars with the arrival of fresh produce.
Markets (marchés) combine products from area farmers and artisans, and offer a mind-boggling array of choices, from the perishable (produce, meats, cheeses, breads, and pastries) to the nonperishable (kitchen wares, inexpensive clothing, brightly colored linens, and pottery). Les marchés brocantes specialize in quasi-antiques and flea-market bric-a-brac (think rummage sale). Many marchés have good selections of produce and some brocantes.
Notice the signs as you enter towns indicating the jours du marché (essential information to any civilized soul, and a reminder not to park on the streets the night before—be on the lookout for stationnement interdit signs that mark “no parking” areas). Most marchés take place once a week in the town’s main square; larger marchés spill onto nearby streets.
Usually, the bigger the market, the greater the overall selection—particularly of nonperishable goods. Bigger towns (such as Beaune and Arles) may have two weekly markets. The biggest market days are usually on weekends, so that everyone can go.
Market day is as important socially as it is commercially—it’s a weekly chance for locals to resume friendships and get the current gossip. Here neighbors can catch up on Henri’s barn renovation, see photos of Jacqueline’s new grandchild, and relax over un café. Dogs are tethered to café tables while friends exchange kisses. Tether yourself to a table and observe: three cheek-kisses for good friends (left-right-left), a fourth for friends you haven’t seen in a while. (The appropriate number of kisses varies by region—Paris, Lyon, and Provence have different standards.) It’s bad form to be in a hurry on market day. Allow the crowd to set your pace.
It’s a joy to assemble picnics at an open-air market. Most perishable items are sold directly from the producers—no middlemen, no credit cards, just really fresh produce (du pays means “grown locally”). Sometimes you’ll meet a widow selling a dozen eggs, two rabbits, and a wad of herbs tied with string. But most vendors follow a weekly circuit of markets they feel works best for them, showing up in the same spot every week, year in and year out. Notice how much fun they have chatting up their customers and one another. Many vendors speak enough English to assist you in your selection. Markets usually end by 13:00—in time for lunch, allowing the town to reclaim its streets and squares.
At the charcuterie or traiteur (for deli items, prepared salads, meats, and pâtés), I like a slice of pâté de campagne (country pâté made of pork) and saucissons secs (dried sausages, some with pepper crust or garlic—you can ask to have it sliced thin like salami). I get a fresh salad, too. Typical options are carottes râpées (shredded carrots in a tangy vinaigrette), salade de betteraves (beets in vinaigrette), and céleri rémoulade (celery root with a mayonnaise sauce). The food comes in takeout containers, and they may supply a biodegradable fork.
At a cave à vin you can buy chilled wines that the merchant is usually happy to open and recork for you.
At a supermarché, épicerie, or magasin d’alimentation (grocery store or minimart), you’ll find biodegradable cutlery and glasses, paper plates, and napkins, plus drinks, chips, and a display of produce. Daily Monop’ and Carrefour City stores are everywhere and convenient one-stop places for assembling a picnic. They offer wraps; juices; €5 fresh salads with chicken, salmon, or just veggies (often with a fork included—noted on the packaging); and small containers of carottes râpées (shredded carrots), salade de betteraves (beets), and céleri rémoulade (celery root slaw).
The best shopping option is to visit an open-air market (marché). These are fun and photogenic, but shut down around 13:00 (many are listed in this book; local TIs have complete lists). For tips, see the “Market Day” sidebar.
Other To-Go Food Options
You’ll find plenty of to-go options at crêperies, bakeries, and small stands. Baguette sandwiches, quiches, and pizza-like items are tasty, filling, and budget-friendly (about €6).
Sandwiches: Anything served à la provençale has marinated peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant. A sandwich à l’italienne is a grilled panini (usually referred to as pannini). Here are some common sandwiches:
Fromage (froh-mahzh): Cheese only
Jambon beurre (zhahn-bohn bur): Ham and butter (a tasty, true French classic)
Jambon crudités (zhahn-bohn krew-dee-tay): Ham with tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, and mayonnaise
Fougasse (foo-gahs): Bread rolled up with salty bits of bacon, cheese, or olives
Poulet crudités (poo-lay krew-dee-tay): Chicken with tomatoes, lettuce, maybe cucumbers, and always mayonnaise
Saucisson beurre (soh-see-sohn bur): Thinly sliced sausage and butter
Thon crudités (tohn krew-dee-tay): Tuna with tomatoes, lettuce, and maybe cucumbers, but definitely mayonnaise
Quiche: Typical quiches you’ll see at shops and bakeries are lorraine (ham and cheese), fromage (cheese only), aux oignons (with onions), aux poireaux (with leeks—my favorite), aux champignons (with mushrooms), au saumon (salmon), or au thon (tuna).
Crêpes: The quintessentially French thin pancake called a crêpe (rhymes with “step,” not “grape”) is filling, usually inexpensive, and generally quick. Place your order at the crêperie window or kiosk, and watch the chef in action. But don’t be surprised if they don’t make the crêpe for you from scratch; at some crêperies, they might premake a stack of crêpes and reheat them when they fill your order.
Crêpes generally are sucrée (sweet) or salée (savory). Technically, a savory crêpe should be made with a heartier buckwheat batter, and is called a galette. However, many cheap and lazy crêperies use the same sweet batter (de froment) for both their sweet-topped and savory-topped crêpes. A socca is a chickpea crêpe.
Standard crêpe toppings include cheese (fromage; usually Swiss-style Gruyère or Emmental), ham (jambon), egg (œuf), mushrooms (champignons), chocolate, Nutella, jam (confiture), whipped cream (chantilly), apple jam (compote de pommes), chestnut cream (crème de marrons), and Grand Marnier.
RESTAURANT AND CAFE DINING
To get the most out of dining out in France, slow down. Give yourself time to dine at a French pace, engage the server, show you care about food, and enjoy the experience as much as the food itself. If you want a full meal, head to a restaurant or bistro, where you can choose from a two- to four-course set menu or order à la carte. If all you want is a salad, crêpe, bowl of soup, or other simple, quick meal, go to a café, a crêperie, or a takeout joint.
French servers probably won’t overwhelm you with friendliness. As their tip is already included in the bill (see “Tipping,” later), there’s less schmoozing than we’re used to at home. Notice how hard they work. They almost never stop. Cozying up to clients (French or foreign) is probably the last thing on their minds. They’re often stuck with client overload, too, because the French rarely hire part-time employees, even to help with peak times. To get a server’s attention, try to make meaningful eye contact, which is a signal that you need something. If this doesn’t work, raise your hand and simply say, “S’il vous plaît” (see voo play)—“please.”
This phrase also works when you want to ask for the check. In French eateries, a server will rarely bring you the check unless you request it. To the French, having the bill dropped off before asking for it is gauche. But busy travelers are often ready for the check sooner rather than later. If you’re in a hurry, ask for the bill when your server comes to clear your plates or checks in to see if you want dessert or coffee. To request your bill, say, “L’addition, s’il vous plaît.” If you don’t ask now, the wait staff may become scarce as they leave you to digest in peace. (For a list of other restaurant survival phrases, see the appendix.)
Note that all café and restaurant interiors are smoke-free. Today the only smokers you’ll find are at outside tables, which—unfortunately—may be exactly where you want to sit.
Tipping: At cafés and restaurants, a 12-15 percent service charge is always included in the price of what you order (service compris or prix net), but you won’t see it listed on your bill. Unlike in the US, France pays servers a decent wage (a favorite café owner told me that his servers earn more than some high school teachers). Because of this, most locals only tip a little, or not at all. When dining, expect reasonable, efficient service. If you don’t get it, skip the tip. If you feel the service was good, tip a little—about 5 percent; maybe 10 percent for terrific service. To tell the server to keep the change when you pay, say “C’est bon” (say bohn), meaning “It’s good.” If you are using a credit card, leave your tip in cash—credit-card receipts usually don’t have space to add a tip. Never feel guilty if you don’t leave a tip. Still, be aware that some servers in areas popular with Americans may ask for a tip (knowing that Americans are accustomed to tipping generously). Don’t feel pressured to tip in these circumstances. If you choose to, tip 10 percent or less.
Cafés and Brasseries
French cafés and brasseries provide user-friendly meals and a relief from sightseeing overload. They’re not necessarily cheaper than many restaurants and bistros, and famous cafés on popular squares can be pricey affairs. Their key advantage is flexibility: They offer long serving hours, and you’re welcome to order just a salad, a sandwich, or a bowl of soup, even for dinner. It’s also OK to share starters and desserts, though not main courses.
Cafés and brasseries usually open by 7:00, but closing hours vary. Unlike some restaurants, which open only for dinner and sometimes for lunch, many cafés and all brasseries serve food throughout the day (usually with a limited menu during off hours), making them the best option for a late lunch or an early dinner. Service Continu or Service Non-Stop signs indicate continued service throughout the day. Small-town cafés often close their kitchens from about 14:00 until 18:00.
Check the price list first, which by law should be posted. There are two sets of prices: You’ll pay more for the same drink if you’re seated at a table (salle) than if you’re seated or standing at the bar or counter (comptoir). (For tips on ordering coffee and tea, see the “Beverages” section, later.)
At a café or a brasserie, if the table is not set, it’s fine to seat yourself and just have a drink. However, if it’s set with a placemat and cutlery, you should ask to be seated and plan to order a meal. If you’re unsure, ask the server before sitting down.
Ordering: A salad, crêpe, croque monsieur, or omelet is a fairly cheap way to fill up. Omelets come lonely on a plate with a basket of bread. Sandwiches, generally served day and night, are inexpensive, but most are very plain (boulangeries serve better ones). To get more than a piece of ham (jambon) on a baguette, order a sandwich jambon crudités (garnished with veggies). Popular sandwiches are the croque monsieur (grilled ham-and-cheese) and croque madame (monsieur with a fried egg on top).
Salads are typically meal size and often can be ordered with warm ingredients mixed in, such as melted goat cheese, fried gizzards, or roasted potatoes. One salad is perfect for lunch or a light dinner. See the “French Cuisine” section later for a list of classic salads.
The daily special—plat du jour (plah dew zhoor)—is your fast, hearty, and garnished hot plate for about €15-30. At most cafés, feel free to order only entrées (which in French means the starter course); some find these lighter and more to their taste than a main course. A vegetarian can enjoy a tasty, filling meal by ordering two entrées.
Regardless of what you order, bread is free but almost never comes with butter; to get more bread, just hold up your basket and ask, “Encore, s’il vous plaît?”
Restaurants
Choose restaurants filled with locals. Consider my suggestions and your hotelier’s opinion, but trust your instincts. If a restaurant doesn’t post its prices outside, move along.
Restaurants open for dinner around 19:00 (I’ve noted exceptions) and are most crowded at about 20:00 (21:00 in cities). The early bird gets the table. Last seating is usually about 21:00 (22:00 in cities and on the French Riviera; possibly later in Paris). The best restaurants are commonly small and known to locals (your competition for a table). Book ahead when possible (a day is usually fine; your hotel can help) or arrive right when the restaurant opens and cross your fingers.
The French seek approval that a restaurant has met certain (usually high) standards. Look for red Bib Michelin decals; these are not the Michelin stars you’re thinking about but still acknowledgement that the restaurant has been tested and approved by an objective reviewer. Yellow Gault&Millau decals are a similarly good sign, as is a red, white, and blue R (for Maître Restaurateur), indicating that the chef has undergone certain training requirements.
Tune in to the quiet, relaxed pace of French dining. The French don’t do dinner and a movie on date nights; they just do dinner. The table is yours for the night. Notice how quietly French diners speak in restaurants and how few phones you see during a meal, and how this improves your overall experience. Go local.
Ordering: In French restaurants, you can choose something off the menu (la carte), or, at many places, you can order a multicourse, fixed-price meal (confusingly, called a menu). If you ask for un menu (instead of la carte), you’ll get a fixed-price meal.
Ordering à la carte gives you the best selection. I enjoy going à la carte, especially when traveling with others and eating family style (servers are usually happy to accommodate this approach and will bring small extra plates). It’s traditional to order an entrée (a starter—not a main dish) and a plat principal (main course), though it’s also common to order only a plat principal—and maybe a dessert. Plats are generally more meat-based, while entrées usually include veggies. Multiple-course meals, while time-consuming (a positive thing in France), create the appropriate balance of veggies to meat. Elaborate meals may also have entremets—tiny dishes served between courses. Wherever you dine, consider the server’s recommendations and anything de la maison (of the house), as long as it’s not an organ meat (tripe, rognons, or andouillette).
Two people can split an entrée or a big salad (small-size dinner salads are usually not offered à la carte) and then each gets a plat principal. It’s also usually OK for two to order two entrées and split a plat principal—ask. If all you want is a salad or soup, go to a café or brasserie.
Fixed-price menus—which usually include two or three courses—are always a better deal than eating à la carte, provided you want several courses. At most restaurants offering fixed-price menus, the price for a two- or three-course menu is only slightly higher than a single main course from the à la carte list (though the main course is usually larger than the one you get with the fixed-price menu). With a three-course menu you’ll choose a starter of soup, appetizer, or salad; select from three or four main courses with vegetables; and finish up with a cheese course and/or a choice of desserts. It sounds like a lot of food, but portions are a bit smaller with fixed-price menus, and what we cram onto one large plate they spread out over several courses. If you’re dining with a friend, one person can get the full menu while the other can order just a plat (and share the menu courses). Also, many restaurants offer less expensive and less filling two-course menus, sometimes called formules, featuring an entrée et plat, or plat et dessert. Many restaurants have a reasonable menu-enfant (kid’s meal).
Wine and other drinks are extra, and certain premium items add a few euros, clearly noted on the menu (supplément or sup.).
Lunch: If a restaurant serves lunch, it generally begins at 12:00 and goes until 14:00, with last orders taken at about 13:30. If you’re hungry when restaurants are closed (late afternoon), go to a boulangerie, brasserie, or café (see previous section). Even fancy places usually have affordable lunch menus (often called formules or plat de midi), allowing you to sample the same gourmet cooking for a lot less than the price of dinner.
In the south, I usually order une entrée and un plat from la carte (often as a two-course menu or formule), then find an ice-cream or crêpe stand and take a dessert stroll. If that sounds like too much, just order un plat (but don’t skip the dessert stroll!).
Restaurants are almost always a better value in the countryside than in Paris. If you’re driving, look for red-and-blue Relais Routier decals on main roads outside cities, indicating that the place is recommended by the truckers’ union. These truck-stop cafés offer inexpensive and hearty fare.
FRENCH CUISINE
General styles of French cooking include cuisine gastronomique (classic, elaborately prepared, multicourse meals), cuisine semi-gastronomique or bistronomie (the finest-quality home cooking), cuisine des provinces (traditional dishes of specific regions), and nouvelle cuisine (a focus on smaller portions and closer attention to the texture and color of the ingredients). Sauces are a huge part of French cooking. In the early 20th century, the legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier identified five French “mother sauces” from which all others are derived: béchamel (milk-based white sauce), espagnole (veal-based brown sauce), velouté (stock-based white sauce), hollandaise (egg yolk-based white sauce), and tomate (tomato-based red sauce).
The following list will help you navigate a typical French menu. Galloping gourmets should bring a menu translator. The most complete (and priciest) menu reader around is A to Z of French Food by G. de Temmerman (look for the cheaper app). The Marling Menu-Master is also good. The Rick Steves French Phrase Book, with a menu decoder, works well for most travelers. For dishes specific to each region, see the “Cuisine Scene” sections throughout this book.
If you’re interested in learning to cook French cuisine (not just eat it), look for my listings of food tours and cooking classes or check out L’Atelier des Chefs, a network of cooking schools located in many cities throughout France, with top classes at good rates (from €19, www.atelierdeschefs.fr).
First Course (Entrée)
Crudités: A mix of raw and lightly cooked fresh vegetables, usually including grated carrots, celery root, tomatoes, and beets, often with a hefty dose of vinaigrette dressing. If you want the dressing on the side, say, “La sauce à côté, s’il vous plaît” (lah sohs ah koh-tay, see voo play).
Escargots: Snails cooked in parsley-garlic butter. You don’t even have to like the snail itself. Just dipping your bread in garlic butter is more than satisfying. Prepared a variety of ways, the classic is à la bourguignonne (served in their shells).
Foie gras: Rich and buttery in consistency—and hefty in price—this pâté is made from the swollen livers of force-fed geese (or ducks, in foie gras de canard). Put small chunks on bread—don’t spread it, and never add mustard. For a real French experience, try this dish with a sweet white wine (such as a Muscat).
Huîtres: Oysters, served raw any month, are particularly popular at Christmas and on New Year’s Eve, when every café seems to have overflowing baskets in their window.
Œuf mayo: A simple hard-boiled egg topped with a dollop of flavorful mayonnaise
Pâtés and terrines: Slowly cooked ground meat (usually pork, though game, poultry liver, and rabbit are also common) that is highly seasoned and served in slices with mustard and cornichons (little pickles). Pâtés are smoother than the similarly prepared but chunkier terrines.
Soupe à l’oignon: Hot, salty, filling, and easiest to find at cafés, French onion soup is a beef broth served with a baked cheese-and-bread crust over the top.
Salads (Salades)
With the exception of a salade mixte (simple green salad, often difficult to find), the French get creative with their salades. Here are some classics that can be served as a main course:
Salade de chèvre chaud: This mixed-green salad is topped with warm goat cheese on small pieces of toast.
Salade de gésiers: Though it may not sound appetizing, this salad with chicken gizzards (and often slices of duck) is worth a try.
Salade composée: “Composed” of any number of ingredients, this salad might have lardons (bacon), Comté (a Swiss-style cheese), Roquefort (blue cheese), œuf (egg), noix (walnuts), and jambon (ham, generally thinly sliced).
Salade gourmande: The “gourmet” salad varies by region and restaurant but usually features cured and poached meats served on salad greens with a mustard vinaigrette.
Salade niçoise: A specialty from Nice, this tasty salad usually includes greens topped with ripe tomatoes, raw vegetables (such as radishes, green peppers, celery, and perhaps artichoke or fava beans), tuna (usually canned), anchovy, hard-boiled egg, and olives.
Salade paysanne: You’ll usually find potatoes (pommes de terre), walnuts (noix), tomatoes, ham, and egg in this salad.
Main Course (Plat Principal)
Duck, lamb, and rabbit are popular in France, and each is prepared in a variety of ways. You’ll also encounter various stew-like dishes that vary by region. The most common regional specialties are described here.
Bœuf bourguignon: A Burgundian specialty, this classy beef stew is cooked slowly in red wine, then served with onions, potatoes, and mushrooms.
Cabillaud: Cod is France’s favorite fish, cooked in many ways that vary by region, but most commonly with butter, white wine, and herbs.
Confit de canard: A favorite from the southwest Dordogne region is duck that has been preserved in its own fat, then cooked in its fat, and often served with potatoes (cooked in the same fat). Not for dieters. (Note that magret de canard is sliced duck breast and very different in taste.)
Coq au vin: This Burgundian dish is rooster marinated ever so slowly in red wine, then cooked until it melts in your mouth. It’s served (often family-style) with vegetables.
Daube: Generally made with beef, but sometimes lamb, this is a long and slowly simmered dish, typically paired with noodles or other pasta.
Escalope normande: This specialty of Normandy features turkey or veal in a cream sauce.
Gigot d’agneau: A specialty of Provence, this is a leg of lamb often grilled and served with white beans. The best lamb is pré salé, which means the lamb has been raised in salt-marsh lands (like at Mont St-Michel).
Le hamburger: This American import is popular in France. Cafés and restaurants serve it using local sauces, breads, and cheeses. It’s fun to see their interpretation of this classic American dish.
Poulet rôti: Roasted chicken on the bone—French comfort food
Saumon and truite: You’ll see salmon and trout (truite) dishes served in various styles. The salmon usually comes from the North Sea and is always served with sauce, most commonly a sorrel (oseille) sauce.
Steak: Referred to as pavé (thick hunk of prime steak), bavette (skirt steak), faux filet (sirloin), or entrecôte (rib steak), French steak is usually thinner and tougher than American steak and is always served with sauces (au poivre is a pepper sauce, une sauce roquefort is a blue-cheese sauce). Because steak is usually better in North America, I generally avoid it in France (unless the sauce sounds good). You will also see steak haché, which is a lean, gourmet hamburger patty served sans bun. When it’s served as steak haché à cheval, it comes with a fried egg on top.
By American standards, the French undercook meats: Their version of rare, saignant (seh-nyahn), means “bloody” and is close to raw. What they consider medium, à point (ah pwan), is what an American would call rare. Their term for well done, or bien cuit (bee-yehn kwee), would translate as medium for Americans (and overdone for the French).
Steak tartare: This wonderfully French dish is for adventurous types only. It’s very lean, raw hamburger served with savory seasonings (usually Tabasco, capers, raw onions, salt, and pepper on the side) and topped with a raw egg yolk. This is not hamburger as we know it, but freshly ground beef.
Cheese Course (Le Fromage)
The cheese course is served just before (or instead of) dessert. It not only helps with digestion, it also gives you a great opportunity to sample the tasty regional cheeses—and time to finish up your wine. Between cow, goat, and sheep cheeses, there are more than 350 different ones to try in France. Some restaurants will offer a cheese platter (plateau de fromages), from which you select a few different kinds. A good platter has at least four cheeses: a hard cheese (such as Cantal), a flowery cheese (such as Brie or Camembert), a blue or Roquefort cheese, and a goat cheese.
To sample several types of cheese from the cheese plate, say, “Un assortiment, s’il vous plaît” (uhn ah-sor-tee-mahn, see voo play). You’ll either be served a selection of several cheeses or choose from a large selection offered on a cheese tray. If you serve yourself from the cheese tray, observe French etiquette and keep the shape of the cheese: Shave off a slice from the side or cut small wedges.
A glass of good red wine is a heavenly complement to your cheese course—but if you’re eating goat cheese, do as the French do and opt for white wine.
Dessert (Le Dessert)
If you order espresso, it will always come after dessert. To have coffee with dessert, ask for “café avec le dessert” (kah-fay ah-vehk luh day-sayr). See the list of coffee terms next. Here are the types of treats you’ll see:
Baba au rhum: Pound cake drenched in rum, served with whipped cream
Café gourmand: An assortment of small desserts selected by the restaurant, served with an espresso—a great way to sample several desserts
Crème brûlée: A rich, creamy, dense, caramelized custard
Crème caramel: Flan in a caramel sauce
Fondant au chocolat: A molten chocolate cake with a runny (not totally cooked) center; also known as moelleux (meh-leh) au chocolat
Fromage blanc: A light dessert similar to plain yogurt (yet different), served with sugar or herbs
Glace: Ice cream—typically vanilla, chocolate, or strawberry
Ile flottante: A light dessert consisting of islands of meringue floating on a pond of custard sauce
Mousse au chocolat: Chocolate mousse
Profiteroles: Cream puffs filled with vanilla ice cream, smothered in warm chocolate sauce
Riz au lait: Rice pudding
Sorbets: Light, flavorful, and fruity ices, sometimes laced with brandy
Tartes: Open-face pie, often filled with fruit
Tarte tatin: Apple pie like grandma never made, with caramelized apples, cooked upside down, but served upright
BEVERAGES
In stores, unrefrigerated soft drinks, bottled water, and beer are cheaper than cold drinks. Bottled water and boxed fruit juice are the cheapest drinks. Avoid buying drinks to-go at streetside stands; you’ll pay far less in a shop.
In bars and at eateries, be clear when ordering drinks—you can easily pay €10 for an oversized Coke and €15 for a supersized beer at some cafés. When you order a drink, state the size in centiliters (don’t say “small,” “medium,” or “large,” because the server might bring a bigger drink than you want). For something small, ask for 25 centilitres (vant-sank sahn-tee-lee-truh; about 8 ounces); for a medium drink, order 33 cl (trahnte-trwah; about 12 ounces—a normal can of soda); a large is 50 cl (san-kahnt; about 16 ounces); and a super-size is one liter (lee-truh; about a quart—which is more than I would ever order in France). The ice cubes melted after the last Yankee tour group left.
France is peppered with wineries and wine-tasting opportunities. For some, the vast range of French wines can be overwhelming, particularly when faced with a no-nonsense winemaker or sommelier. Follow my tips, and don’t linger if you don’t feel welcome.
It helps to know what you like (drier or sweeter, lighter or full-bodied, fruity or more tannic, and so on). The people serving you may know those words in English, but you’re wise to learn the key words in French.
French wines usually have a lower alcohol level than American or Australian wines. While Americans might like a big, full-bodied wine, most French prefer subtler flavors that won’t overwhelm their meal. They judge a wine by how well it pairs with food. The French enjoy sampling younger wines and divining how they will taste in a few years, allowing them to buy bottles at cheaper prices and stash them in their cellars. Americans want it now—for today’s picnic.
At tastings, vintners and wine shops are hoping you’ll buy a bottle or two (otherwise you may be asked to pay a small tasting fee). They understand that North Americans can’t take much wine with them, but they hope you’ll look for their wines when you’re back home. Some places will ship wine—ask.
Here are some phrases to get you started when wine-tasting:
Hello, madam/sir.
Bonjour, madame/monsieur.
(bohn-zhoor, mah-dahm/muhs-yuh)
We would like to taste a few wines.
Nous voudrions déguster quelques vins.
(noo voo-dree-ohn day-gew-stay kehl-kuh van)
We would like a wine that is ____ and ____.
Nous voudrions un vin ____ et ____.
(noo voo-dree-ohn uhn van ____ ay ____)
Fill in the blanks with your favorites from this list:
| English | French |
| red | rouge (roozh) |
| white | blanc (blahn) |
| rosé | rosé (roh-zay) |
| light | léger (lay-zhay) |
| full-bodied | robuste (roh-bewst) |
| fruity | fruité (frwee-tay) |
| sweet | doux (doo) |
| tannic | tannique (tah-neek) |
| fine | fin, avec finesse (fan, ah-vehk fee-nehs) |
| ready to drink (mature) | prêt à boire (preh ah bwar) |
| not ready to drink | fermé (fair-may) |
| oaky or woody | boisé (bwah-zay) |
| from old vines | de vieilles vignes (duh vee-yay-ee veen-yuh) |
| sparkling | pétillant (pay-tee-yahn) |
Water, Juice, and Soft Drinks
The French are willing to pay for bottled water with their meal (eau minérale; oh mee-nay-rahl) because they prefer the taste over tap water. Badoit is my favorite carbonated water (l’eau gazeuse; loh gah-zuhz) and is commonly available. To get a free pitcher of tap water, ask for une carafe d’eau (ewn kah-rahf doh). Otherwise, you may unwittingly buy bottled water.
In France limonade (lee-moh-nahd) is Sprite or 7-Up. For a fun, bright, nonalcoholic drink of 7-Up with mint syrup, order un diabolo menthe (uhn dee-ah-boh-loh mahnt). For 7-Up with fruit syrup, order un diabolo grenadine (think Shirley Temple). Kids love the local orange drink, Orangina, a carbonated orange juice with pulp. They also like sirop à l’eau (see-roh ah loh), flavored syrup mixed with carbonated water.
For keeping hydrated on the go, hang on to your store-bought water bottle and refill. I drink tap water throughout France, filling up my bottle in hotel rooms.
Coffee and Tea
The French define various types of espresso drinks by how much milk is added. To the French, milk is a delicate form of nutrition: You need it in the morning, but as the day goes on, too much can upset your digestion. Therefore, the amount of milk that’s added to coffee decreases as the day goes on. The average French person thinks a café au lait is exclusively for breakfast, and a café crème is only appropriate through midday. You’re welcome to order a milkier coffee drink later in the day, but don’t be surprised if you get a funny look.
In cafés, stand at the bar to sip your drink and get the lowest prices. Before ordering at a table, check out the price list (les prix de consommation), which should be prominently displayed. This shows the price of the most commonly ordered drinks au comptoir (at the counter) and en salle (seated at a table). I use the price of un café (shot of espresso) at the counter as a reference—if the price is about €2, the place is likely to be reasonable. If given a choice between a small, medium, or large beverage, be aware that small is usually the norm and larger drinks can be crazy pricey.
By law, a server must give you a glass of tap water with your coffee or tea if you request it; ask for “un verre d’eau, s’il vous plaît” (uhn vehr doh, see voo play).
Here are some common coffee and tea drinks:
Café (kah-fay): Shot of espresso
Café allongé, a.k.a. café long (kah-fay ah-lohn-zhay; kah-fay lohn): Espresso topped up with hot water—like an Americano
Noisette (nwah-zeht): Espresso with a dollop of milk (best value for adding milk to your coffee)
Café au lait (kah-fay oh lay): Espresso mixed with lots of warm milk (used mostly for coffee made at home; in a café, order café crème)
Café crème (kah-fay krehm): Espresso with a sizable pour of steamed milk (closest thing you’ll get to an American-style latte)
Grand crème (grahn krehm): Double shot of espresso with a bit more steamed milk (and often twice the price)
Décafféiné (day-kah-fee-nay): Decaf—available for any of the above
Thé nature (tay nah-tour): Plain tea
Thé au lait (tay oh lay): Tea with milk
Thé citron (tay see-trohn): Tea with lemon
Infusion (an-few-see-yohn): Herbal tea
Alcoholic Beverages
The legal drinking age is 18—at restaurants it’s normal for wine to be served with dinner to teens.
Wine: Wines are often listed in a separate carte des vins. House wine is generally cheap and good enough (about €7/glass). Finer wines are harder to find by the glass. At a café, a carafe of house wine costs around €18. To order less expensive wine, ask for table wine (vin de table).
Here are some important wine terms:
Vin de table (van duh tah-bluh): House wine
Verre de vin rouge (vehr duh van roozh): Glass of red wine
Verre de vin blanc (vehr duh van blahn): Glass of white wine
Pichet (pee-shay) or carafe (kah-rahf): Pitcher or carafe
Demi-pichet (duh-mee pee-shay): Half-carafe
Quart (kar): Quarter-carafe (ideal for one)
Bouteille (boo-teh-ee): Bottle
Demi-bouteille (duh-mee boo-teh-ee): Half-bottle
Beer: Local bière (bee-ehr) costs about €6 at a restaurant and is cheaper on tap (une pression; ewn pres-yohn) than in the bottle. France’s best-known beers are Alsatian; try Kronenbourg or the heavier Pelfort Brune (one of your author’s favorites). Craft beers (bière artisanale) are very popular—and every region is making craft beers these days.
Aperitifs: Champagne is a popular way to start your evening in France. For a refreshing before-dinner drink, order a kir (pronounced “keer”)—a thumb’s level of crème de cassis (black currant liqueur) topped with white wine (upgrade to a kir royal if you’d like it made with champagne). Also consider a glass of Lillet, a sweet, flowery fortified wine from Bordeaux. Pastis, the standard southern France aperitif, is a sweet anise (licorice) drink that comes on the rocks with a glass of water (cut it with water to taste). Un Monaco is a red drink made with beer, grenadine, and lemonade.
After Dinner: In France, ordering un digestif is common to complete a good dinner. If you like brandy, try a marc (regional brandy—e.g., marc de Bourgogne), an Armagnac, cognac’s cheaper twin brother, or a Calvados (apple brandy from Normandy).
Staying Connected
A mobile device is an indispensable tool for efficient travel. Fortunately, staying connected in Europe gets less complicated (and less expensive) each year. You can use your device much like you do at home, by either getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.
USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers unlimited text and low-speed data, plus reasonable per-minute voice calls).
Here’s how to dial from anywhere in the US or Europe, using the phone number of one of my recommended Paris hotels as an example (01 47 05 25 45). If a number starts with 0, drop it when dialing internationally (except when calling Italy).
Phone numbers in this book are presented exactly as you would dial them from a US mobile phone. For international access, press and hold 0 (zero) to get a + sign, then dial the country code (33 for France) and phone number.
To call the Paris hotel from any location, dial +33 1 47 05 25 45.
Replace + with 011 (US/Canada access code), then dial the country code (33 for France) and phone number.
To call the Paris hotel from your home landline, dial 011 33 1 47 05 25 45.
Replace + with 00 (Europe access code), then dial the country code (33 for France, 1 for the US) and phone number.
To call the Paris hotel from a Spanish landline, dial 00 33 1 47 05 25 45.
To call my US office from a French landline, dial 00 1 425 771 8303.
To place a domestic call (from a French landline or mobile), drop +33 and dial the phone number (including the initial 0).
To call the Paris hotel from Nice, dial 01 47 05 25 45.
Local Numbers: European phone numbers and area codes can vary in length and spacing, even within the same country. Mobile phones use separate prefixes (for instance, in France, Paris landline numbers begin with 01, and mobile numbers begin with 06 or 07).
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: It’s generally not possible to dial European toll or toll-free numbers from a US mobile or landline (although you can sometimes get through using Skype). Look for a direct-dial number instead.
Calling the US from a US Mobile Phone, While Abroad: Dial +1, area code, and number.
More Phoning Help: See HowToCallAbroad.com.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi (pronounced wee-fee in French). Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public transit hubs, important train stations, airports, aboard trains and buses, and at some autoroute (highway) rest stops.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. Turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) only when you can’t find Wi-Fi.
Save large-data tasks for Wi-Fi. If your included data is slow or metered, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype or FaceTime, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off.
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, FaceTime, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost voice calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. WhatsApp is especially popular with Europeans, and is often the easiest way to communicate with guides, drivers, or other local contacts.
Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls, need a local phone number, or your provider’s international data rates are expensive, consider getting a European SIM card to replace the one in your (unlocked) device. SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters, some newsstands (you may need to show your passport), and vending machines. If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop. Some newer devices may also allow you to download an eSIM from an international provider. There are generally no roaming charges when using a European SIM card in other EU countries, but confirm when you buy.
Damage Control for Lost Phones: Losing your phone can be a significant inconvenience. Before you leave home, make sure your device is set up for automatic cloud backups, and enable the “find my phone” feature (make sure you have access to it from another device, like your travel partner’s phone or a laptop). Familiarize yourself with your phone’s “lost and lock” mode, which you should enable from another device if it goes missing. Report the loss to your mobile carrier; if your phone remains lost, use the “wipe” feature to erase its data.
For details on sending packages to your own home or to others, visit www.cbp.gov, then select “Travel” and “Know Before You Go.”
The French postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com). French post offices are referred to as La Poste or sometimes the old-fashioned PTT, for “Post, Telegraph, and Telephone.” Hours vary, though most are open weekdays 8:00-19:00 and Saturday morning 8:00-12:00. Stamps are also sold at tabacs. It costs about €1.50 to mail a postcard to the US. One convenient, if expensive, way to send packages home is to use the post office’s Colissimo XL postage-paid mailing box. It costs €55-90 to ship boxes weighing 5-7 kilos (about 11-15 pounds).
Transportation
Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers, and those who want to leave the driving to others. Short-hop flights within Europe can creatively connect the dots. Be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city; with trains and buses you’re at the mercy of a timetable; flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport and leaves a larger carbon footprint.
If your itinerary mixes cities and countryside, my advice is to connect cities by train (or bus) and to explore rural areas by rental car. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.
In cities, arriving by train in the middle of town makes hotel-hunting and sightseeing easy. But in France, many destinations are small, remote places far from a station, such as Honfleur, Mont St-Michel, D-Day beaches, Loire Valley châteaux, Dordogne caves, and villages in Provence and Burgundy. In such places, taking trains and buses can require great patience, planning, and time. If you’ll be relying on public transportation, focus on fewer destinations, or hire one of the excellent minivan tour guides I recommend.
I’ve included two sample itineraries—by car and by public transportation—to help you explore France smoothly; you’ll find these on here and here.
TRAINS
France’s SNCF rail system, short for Société Nationale Chemins de Fer, sets the pace in Europe (www.sncf.com). Its high-speed trains (TGV, tay zhay vay; Train à Grande Vitesse—also called InOui) have inspired bullet trains throughout the world. The TGV, which requires a reservation, runs at 170-220 mph. Its rails are fused into one long, continuous track for a faster and smoother ride. The TGV has changed commuting patterns throughout France by putting most of the country within day-trip distance of Paris.
The Trainline app is a great tool for looking up schedules and buying tickets (you’ll receive a QR code for your trip, which the conductor will scan onboard). Any staffed train station also has schedule information, can make reservations, and can sell tickets for any destination. For more on train travel, see RickSteves.com/rail.
Schedules
Schedules change by season, weekday, and weekend. Verify train times and frequencies shown in this book—use the Trainline app, go to Bahn.com (Germany’s excellent all-Europe schedule site), or check locally at train stations.
In France, bigger stations may have helpful information agents roaming the station (usually in bright red or blue vests) and at Accueil or Information offices or booths. Make use of their help; don’t stand in a ticket line if all you need is a train schedule or to confirm a departure time.
Rail Passes
The single-country Eurail France Pass can be a good value for long-distance train travelers. Each day of use of your France Pass allows you to take as many trips as you want on one calendar day (you could go from Paris to Beaune in Burgundy, enjoy a wine tasting, then continue to Avignon, stay a few hours, and end in Nice—though I wouldn’t recommend it).
Rail passes are delivered electronically via email and must be activated through the Eurail Rail Planner app. Download the app before you leave home. To activate your pass, enter the following in the app: the pass number (provided in the rail pass email), your passport number, and the pass activation date (your first day of travel using the pass). Before boarding any train with a digital pass, open the app and “register” the specific journey you’re taking (regardless of whether the train requires seat reservations). The app then generates a bar code (or QR code) that the ticket inspector will scan.
Be aware that France’s fast TGV and international trains require paid seat reservations (starting at €13). Particularly on international trains, places for rail-pass holders can be limited—which means trains may “sell out” for pass holders well before they’ve sold out for ticket buyers. Reserving these fast trains at least several weeks in advance is recommended (for strategies, see “Reservations,” later).
You’ll save money with the second-class version of the France Pass, but first class gives you more options when reserving popular TGV routes. A first-class pass also grants you access to “Salon des Grand Voyageurs” lounges in many bigger-city stations. These first-class lounges are more basic than airport lounges—but they often offer free coffee and water, Wi-Fi, WCs, and a place to charge your phone.
For most trips in France, buy second-class point-to-point tickets. Long-distance trips are where you can really save money with either a rail pass or advance-purchase ticket discounts. Note that if you’re connecting the French Alps with Alsace, you might travel through Switzerland, a route that requires France Pass holders to buy a ticket for that segment (about €50).
If your trip extends beyond France, consider the Eurail Global Pass, covering most of Europe. For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail-pass options for your train trip, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
Buying Tickets
Online: You can buy tickets from home or on-the-go in France at SNCF’s online sales site (www.sncf-connect.com) or through the Trainline app.
While there’s no deadline to buy any train ticket, the fast, reserved TGV trains get booked up. Buy well ahead for any TGV you cannot afford to miss. Tickets go on sale about four months in advance, with a wide range of prices. The cheapest tickets sell out early and reservations for rail-pass holders also get more expensive as seats fill up.
To buy the cheapest advance-discount tickets (up to 60 percent less than full fare), check the app or visit www.sncf-connect.com three to four months ahead of your travel date.
Will you be better off buying a rail pass or point-to-point tickets? It pays to know your options and choose what’s best for your itinerary.
A Eurail France Pass lets you travel by train in France for one to eight days (consecutively or not) within a one-month period. France is also covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass.
Discounted rates are offered for seniors (age 60 and up) and youths (ages 12-27). Up to two kids (ages 4-11) can travel free with each adult-rate pass (but not with senior rates). All passes offer a choice of first or second class for all ages.
While most rail passes are delivered electronically, it’s smart to get your pass sorted before leaving home. For more on rail passes, including current prices and purchasing, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
If you’re taking just a couple of train rides, buying individual pointto-point tickets may save you money over a pass. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass plus reservations. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.
Map shows approximate costs, in US dollars, for one-way, second-class tickets on faster trains.
Some of the cheapest rates you’ll see are for a no-frills version of TGV called OuiGo Grande Vitesse (www.ouigo.com; tickets sold online only). These run equally fast but have all second-class seating, luggage limits, seats assigned just a few days before departure, and require you to be at the station at least 30 minutes before departure. They sometimes use alternate stations (such as Marne-la-Vallée outside central Paris), and they don’t accept rail passes. They also offer similar discounts on some slower departures called OuiGo Train Classique.
Note that with either the SNCF or OuiGo site, many US credit cards won’t work unless your bank has certain security protocols set up, such as the “Verified by Visa,” “Mastercard SecureCode,” or “American Express SafeKey” programs. PayPal is accepted for just a few (nonrefundable) ticket types, not including OuiGo.
US customers can order tickets through an international agency, such as at RickSteves.com/rail (no OuiGo sales) or Trainline (www.trainline.eu), which includes OuiGo departures (and accepts PayPal and Apple Pay). Both charge about the same rates (in euros or dollars).
Senior Discount: For non-Europeans ages 60 and up, the best deal going is the €49 Carte Avantage Senior card, good for 30 percent off all train fares—first and second class—for a year. The card easily pays for itself in a few trips. For details, check “Offers” at www.sncf-connect.com.
In France: You can buy train tickets in person at any train station, either from a staffed ticket window or from a machine. (Don’t wait to buy tickets onboard: You’ll pay a hefty surcharge.)
The ticket machines available at most stations are great time-savers when other lines are long. While most machines accept American credit cards if you know your PIN, be prepared with euro coins and bills just in case. Some machines have English instructions, but for those that don’t, here are the basic prompts. (Turn the dial or move the cursor to your choice, and press “Validez” to agree to each step.)
1. Quelle est votre destination/origin? (What’s your destination/starting location?)
2. Billet Plein Tarif (Full-fare ticket—yes for most.)
3. 1ère ou 2ème (First or second class; normally second is fine.)
4. Nombre de personnes (Number of people traveling)
5. Aller simple ou aller-retour? (One-way or round-trip?)
6. Prix en Euro (The price should be shown if you get this far.)
Reservations
Reservations are required for any TGV or Intercité train, couchettes (sleeping berths) on night trains, and some other trains where indicated in timetables. You can reserve any train at any station any time before your departure, subject to availability. If you’re buying a point-to-point ticket for a TGV or Intercité train, you’ll reserve your seat when you purchase your ticket.
Popular TGV routes can fill up quickly. It’s wise to book well ahead for any TGV, especially on the busy Paris-Avignon-Nice line. If the TGV trains you want are fully booked, check for slower TER trains serving the same destination, as these don’t require reservations.
With a rail pass, reservations cost €13-20 for domestic travel, depending on the type of train and when you buy them. Seat reservations on international trains, including Eurostar and international TGV routes, usually range from €10 to €38, depending on the destination and class of service (and can cost much more in first class on TGV Lyria trains to Swiss cities).
Rail-pass holders can book TGV reservations directly at French stations or on Eurail’s website (your account is linked with your pass in the Rail Planner app). Given the possible difficulty of getting TGV reservations with a rail pass, I recommend making those reservations online before you leave home.
For trains other than the TGV and Intercité, reservations are generally unnecessary, but are advisable during busy times (for example, Friday and Sunday afternoons, Saturday mornings, weekday rush hours, and holiday weekends; see “Holidays and Festivals” in the appendix).
Baggage Check
While baggage check (Consigne or Espaces Bagages) is not available at most train stations, you can usually find a place to stash your bag for a small fee near a station. I list baggage check places throughout this book, but new places pop up every year—check online or ask at the TI.
Several online sources allow travelers to arrange baggage storage in advance at shops near train stations in select towns and major cities. Check NannyBag.com/en to see if they serve your destinations.
Major museums and monuments often have free baggage check or lockers for visitors. Even if the sight is not particularly interesting to you, the entry fee may be worth it if you need to stow your bags for a few hours.
For security reasons, all baggage should carry a tag with the traveler’s first and last name and current address (though it’s not enforced). This applies to hand luggage as well as bigger bags that are stowed. Free tags are available at many train stations.
Train Tips
At the Station
• Arrive at the station at least 30 minutes before your departure, when platform numbers are typically posted. Large stations have separate information (accueil) windows; at small stations the ticket office gives information.
• Small stations are minimally staffed; if there is no agent at the station, go directly to the tracks and look for the overhead sign that confirms the track for your train.
• Larger stations have platforms with monitors showing TGV layouts (numbered forward or backward) so you can figure out where your car (voiture) will stop on the long platform.
• Travelers with first-class tickets or rail passes can gain access to Grand Voyageur lounges at some stations.
Validating Tickets, Reservations, and Rail Passes
• At major stations (including all Paris stations) you must scan your ticket at turnstiles to access the tracks. Smaller stations without turnstiles still use the old system of validating your ticket in yellow machines near the platform or waiting area. Print-at-home tickets and etickets may not require validation—just show your QR code to the conductor on the train or scan it at the platform.
• If you have a rail pass and your train requires a reservation, at major stations you will need to present your reservation QR code (in your Rail Planner app or saved separately) for scanning before boarding the train. For all other trains, conductors will scan your code on board. Having a printed back-up or screenshot of your reservation code is helpful (in case Wi-Fi is spotty at the station).
On the Train
• Before getting on a train, confirm that it’s going where you think it is. For example, if you want to go to Bayeux, ask the conductor or any local passenger, “A Bayeux?” (ah bah-yuh).
• Some longer trains split off cars en route. Make sure your train car is continuing to your destination by asking, for example, “Cette voiture va à Avignon?” (seht vwah-toor vah ah ah-veen-yohn; “This car goes to Avignon?”).
• If a non-TGV train seat is reserved, it’ll likely be labeled réservé, with the cities to and from which it is reserved.
• If you don’t understand an announcement, ask your neighbor to explain: “Pardon madame/monsieur, qu’est-ce qui se passe?” (kehs kee suh pahs; “Excuse me, what’s going on?”).
• Verify with the conductor all the transfers you must make: “Correspondance à Lyon?” (“Must I transfer to get to Lyon?”)
• To guard against theft, keep your bags in sight (directly overhead is ideal but rarely available—the early boarder gets the best storage space). If you must store them in the lower racks by the doors (available in most cars), pay attention at stops. Your bags are most vulnerable to theft before the train takes off and whenever it stops.
BUSES
For international connections, buses are often far cheaper (but much slower) than trains: For example, a Eurostar train to Amsterdam from Paris takes three hours and costs about €120; a bus costs only €25 but takes more than six hours. The bus is also the cheapest way to cross the English Channel; book at least two days in advance for the best fares.
Eurolines is the old standby; two relative newcomers (BlaBlaCar and FlixBus) are cutting prices drastically, adding more destinations, and ramping up onboard comfort with easy-to-use apps, Wi-Fi, and snacks. These companies provide service from train stations and airports to places within France plus many international destinations. If the schedule works for you, it’s a handy and cheap way to connect Paris airports with other French destinations (Blois, Rouen, and Caen, for example) and skip central Paris train stations. The number of smaller destinations they serve is increasing, so it’s worth checking for your trip if trains are not convenient.
BlaBlaCar has routes mostly within France but also serves some European cities (central Paris stop is at Gare de Bercy, Mo: Bercy, some trips leave from Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports, easy online booking, www.blablacar.com). German-run FlixBus connects key cities within France and throughout Europe, often from secondary airports and train stations (central Paris stop is near Gare de Bercy at 208 Quai de Bercy, handy eticket system and easy-to-use app, +33 1 76 36 04 12, www.flixbus.com). Eurolines’ buses depart from several locations in Paris (www.eurolines.com).
Regional Bus Tips
These tips apply to buses you’ll use to get to smaller towns, and for day trips to sights (like Pont du Gard from Avignon or Nîmes).
• Read the train tips described earlier—many also apply to buses (check schedules in advance, arrive at the station early, confirm the destination before you board, find out if you need to transfer, etc.).
• The bus company websites I’ve listed in this book are usually in French only (the website www.rome2rio.com is in English and extremely helpful). Here are some key phrases you’ll see: horaires (schedules), en semaine (weekday), samedi (Saturday), dimanche (Sunday), jours fériés (holidays), LMMJV (Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday), année (bus runs all year on the days listed), vac (runs only during summer vacations), scol/scolaire (runs only when school is in session), ligne (route or bus line), and réseau (network—usually all routes).
• Use TIs to help plan your trip and verify times (TIs have area bus schedules).
• Be aware that service is sparse or nonexistent on Sunday. Wednesday bus schedules may be different during the school year, as school lets out early this day (and regional buses generally operate school service).
• Confirm a bus stop’s location in advance (rural stops are often not signed) and be at bus stops at least five minutes early.
Regional Minivan Excursions
Worthwhile day tours are generally available in regions where bus and train service is sparse. For the D-Day beaches, Loire Valley châteaux, Dordogne Valley villages and caves, Cathar castles near Carcassonne, Provence’s villages and vineyards, the Route du Vin (Wine Road) in Alsace, other Normandy and Brittany sights (including Mont St-Michel), and wine tasting in Burgundy, I list reliable companies that provide this helpful service at fair rates. Some of these minivan excursions just offer transportation between the sights; others add a running commentary and information on regional history.
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Most European taxis are reliable and reasonable. Often, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. In some cities, you can use an app called Free Now to hail a taxi. This can be a convenient alternative to calling a dispatcher or finding a taxi stand; prices are fixed up-front, and you can pay with a credit card (through the app).
Uber and other ride-booking apps operate in some parts of Europe, and rides can be cheaper than taxis. However, the details may differ from location to location. In some places, Uber works just like back home; in others, the app looks the same, but it hails a regular taxi rather than a private car. Uber is banned in some cities and countries, though sometimes similar companies operate where Uber cannot. In France, Uber services generally work in only the larger cities and are not much cheaper than taxis.
BlaBlaCar offers both nearby and long-distance ride-sharing, connecting drivers with riders who can share the cost of gas, freeway tolls, and other expenses (www.blablacar.in). It’s the cheapest way to get around France.
RENTING A CAR
It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt, and the French agency, ADA (www.ada.fr). Consolidators such as Auto Europe (www.autoeurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper www.autoeurope.eu)—compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.
Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
Rental Costs and Considerations
If you book well in advance, expect to pay roughly $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking.
Manual vs. Automatic: Cars with manual transmission are more common in Europe and generally cheaper than automatic. If you need an automatic, it’s wise to book well in advance. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.
Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car rental websites. If you’re considered too young or too old, look into leasing (covered later), which has less stringent age restrictions.
Choosing Pickup/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose. Except at airports and major train stations, most rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime.
When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.
If you want a car for only a day or two (e.g., for the Côtes du Rhône wine route, Luberon villages, D-Day beaches, or Loire Valley châteaux), you’ll likely find it easy to rent on the spot just about anywhere in France. In many cases, this is a worthwhile splurge. All you need is your American driver’s license and a major credit card (figure €60-100/day; some include unlimited mileage, others give you 100 kilometers—about 60 miles—for free).
Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, GPS, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.
Car Insurance Options
When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (essentially “free,” but more complicated if you need to use it), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW costs $15-30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works. If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical choice.
Both of these options are typically valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland and Italy.
For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.
Leasing
For trips of three weeks or more, consider leasing (which automatically includes zero-deductible collision and theft insurance). By technically buying and then selling back the car, you save money on taxes and insurance. Leasing provides you a brand-new car with unlimited mileage and a 24-hour emergency assistance program. You can lease for as little as 21 days to as long as five and a half months; Idea Merge offers two-week leases. Car leases must be arranged from the US. One of several companies offering affordable lease packages is Auto Europe.
These reliable companies offer 21-day lease packages: Auto France (Peugeot cars only, +1 800 572 9655, www.autofrance.net) and Kemwel (Peugeot only, +1 877 820 0668, www.kemwel.com).
RV and Campervan Rental
Even given the extra fuel costs, renting your own rolling hotel can be a great way to save money, especially if you’re sticking mainly to rural areas. Keep in mind that RVs in France are much smaller than those you see at home. Consider Van It (rents pop-top VW Eurovan campers that are easy to maneuver on small roads, +33 06 95 99 61 46, www.van-it.com).
Navigation Options
If you’ll be navigating using your phone, remember to bring a car charger. Most rental cars are equipped with a USB port so you can run your phone’s GPS through the dashboard display, but it can also be smart to bring a device mount.
Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—provide offline route directions, but you’ll need data access for current traffic.
GPS Devices: Most cars come with a dedicated GPS unit, though it’s sometimes an add-on cost (about $15-20/day). The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Make sure you know how to use the device—and that the language is set to English—before you drive off.
Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with GPS, I always have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone’s GPS stops working. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at a local gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.
Michelin maps are available throughout France at bookstores, newsstands, and gas stations (about €6 each, cheaper than in the US). The Michelin #721 France map (1:1,000,000 scale) covers this book’s destinations with good detail for drivers. Drivers should also consider the soft-cover Michelin France atlas (the entire country at 1:200,000, well organized in a €20 book with an index and maps of major cities). Spend a few minutes learning the Michelin key to get the most sightseeing value out of these maps.
DRIVING
It’s a pleasure to explore France by car, but you need to know the rules.
Road Rules: Seat belts are mandatory for all, and children under age 10 must be in the back with a special seat. In city and town centers, traffic merging from the right (even from tiny side streets) may have the right-of-way (priorité à droite). So even when you’re driving on a major road, pay attention to cars merging from the right. In contrast, cars entering the countless roundabouts must yield (cédez le passage). You can’t turn right on a red light, U-turns are illegal, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right.
When navigating France’s narrow village lanes, you’ll likely encounter short sections where cars must pass single file, one direction at a time (to control speeds). At those spots, you’ll see a sign with thick and thin arrows pointing up and down. A thick (white) arrow pointing up in the direction you’re traveling means you have priority to pass through the section; a red arrow indicates you must yield to cars coming the other way.
Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be on at all times (in France, they must be used in any case of poor visibility), and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the “International Travel” section at Travel.State.gov (enter France in the “Learn About Your Destination” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”).
Speed Limits: Because speed limits are by road type, they typically aren’t posted, so it’s best to memorize them:
• Two-lane D and N routes outside cities and towns: 80 or 90 km/hour, varies by region
• Two-lane roads in villages: 50 km/hour (unless posted at 30 km/hour)
• Divided highways outside cities and towns: 90-110 km/hour
• Autoroutes (toll roads): 130 km/hour (unless otherwise posted)
If it’s raining, subtract 10 km/hour on D and N routes and 20 km/hour on divided highways and autoroutes.
Road speeds are monitored regularly with cameras—a mere two kilometers over the limit yields a pricey ticket (a minimum of about €70). Signs warn drivers a few hundred yards before the camera and show the proper speed (see image on this page). Look for a sign with a radar graphic that says Pour votre sécurité, contrôles automatiques.
Fuel: Gas (essence) is expensive—normally about $7 per gallon. Know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Many Americans get marooned by filling with unleaded in a diesel car (many rentals are diesel). Some pumps are color-coded: Unleaded pumps are green and labeled “E” while diesel pumps (often yellow or black) are labeled “B.”
Fuel is most expensive on autoroutes and cheapest at big supermarkets. Your US credit and debit cards may not work at self-serve pumps—so you may need to find gas stations with attendants (all autoroute stations have them, as do most countryside stations during business hours)—and be sure to know your card’s PIN (explained earlier, under “Money”).
Autoroutes and Tolls: Autoroute tolls are pricey, but the alternative to these super-“feeways” usually means being marooned in countryside traffic—especially near the Riviera.
You’ll usually take a ticket when entering an autoroute and pay when you leave. Figure roughly €1 in tolls for every 15 kilometers driven on the autoroute (or about €15 for two hours).
Autoroute gas stations are open on Sundays and usually come with well-stocked minimarts, clean restrooms, cafeterias, maps, local products, and Wi-Fi. For more information, see www.autoroutes.fr.
Highways: Roads are classified into departmental (D), national (N), and autoroutes (A). D routes (usually yellow lines on maps) are often slower but the most scenic. N routes and important D routes (red lines) are the fastest after autoroutes (orange lines on maps). Green road signs are for national routes; blue are for autoroutes.
Parking: Finding a parking place can be a headache in larger cities. Ask your hotelier for ideas, and pay to park at well-patrolled lots (blue P signs direct you to parking lots in French cities). Parking garages require that you take a ticket with you and pay at a machine (called a caisse) on your way back to the car or at a machine at the exit. Overnight parking in garages (usually 19:00-8:00) is generally reasonable (priciest in cities).
Metered parking is strictly monitored in France. At parking machines (called an horodateur, usually one per block), prepare to enter your car’s license plate number and the amount of time you need (take a picture of your license plate to recall the number, payment with coins or credit card; you may also be able to use an app such as Pay by Phone). While the first 30 minutes is often free, you still need to input your license number and get a ticket. Metered parking is sometimes free 12:00-14:00 and usually free 19:00-9:00 and on Sundays (varies by city and parking area). Avoid spaces outlined in blue, as they require a special permit.
Theft: Theft is a problem. Be sure all of your valuables are out of sight and locked in the trunk—or, even better, in your room. And don’t assume that just because you’re parked on a main street that you’ll be fine. Thieves work fast.
Driving Tips
• At intersections and roundabouts, French road signs use the name of an upcoming destination for directions, not the highway number. That upcoming destination could be a major city, or it could be the next minor town up the road. Familiarize yourself with the names of towns and cities along your route.
• Allow extra time for slow traffic when driving on any roads but autoroutes (tractors, trucks, and hard-to-decipher signs all deserve blame). First-timers should estimate how long they think a drive will take...then double it.
Biking
You’ll find areas in France where public transportation is limited and bicycle touring might be a good idea. For many, biking is a romantic notion, and the novelty wears off after the first hill or headwind. Realistically evaluate your physical condition, be clear on your limitations, and consider an e-bike. Electric-assist bikes are available everywhere in France—making biking a reasonable option for many. For a good touring bike, figure about €15 for a half-day and €20 for a full day (double that for e-bikes). You’ll pay more for better equipment; generally the best bikes are available through bike shops, not at train stations or other outlets.
Whether on a standard bike or an e-bike, start with an easy pedal, then decide how ambitious you feel. Most find that one hour on a narrow, hard seat is enough. I’ve listed bike-rental shops where appropriate (TIs can also guide you) and suggested a few of my favorite rides. French cyclists often do not wear helmets, though most rental outfits have them (for a small fee).
FLIGHTS
To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: Easy-to-use Google Flights is the top site for flights to and within Europe, Kayak has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.
Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another.
Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. If you’re visiting one or more French cities on a longer European trip—or linking up far-flung French cities (such as Paris and Nice)—a flight can save both time and money. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet, Vueling, or Ryanair. Also check Air France for specials. Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and leaving a larger carbon footprint than a train or bus.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
Resources from Rick Steves
Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com
My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, beautiful photos, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.
Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/forums).
Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).
Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).
Rick Steves’ Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More
Small-Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year more than 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of around 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to book a tour, visit RickSteves.com/tours or call us at +1 425 771 8303.
Books: This book is just one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket Guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows and Video Library: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year. Watch full episodes for free (RickSteves.com/tv). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (Classroom.RickSteves.com).
Monday Night Travel Talks: To raise your travel I.Q., join our virtual travel party every Monday, featuring Rick Steves guides discussing European destinations, art, culture, food, travel tips, and more. Join the live events or check out the video recordings (RickSteves.com/mnt).
Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced 60 free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, visit RickSteves.com/audioeurope.
Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.
Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a selection of video clips from my public television show, and video recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/podcasts).