PRACTICALITIES
SWISS TRAVEL PASS AND SWISS MUSEUM PASS
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.
Travel Tips
Travel Advisories: Before traveling, check updated health and safety conditions, including restrictions for your destination, on the travel pages of the US State Department (www.travel.state.gov) and Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov/travel). The US embassy website for Switzerland is another good source of information (see below).
Covid Vaccine/Test Requirements: It’s possible you’ll need to present proof of vaccination against the coronavirus and/or a negative Covid-19 test result to board a plane to Europe or back to the US. Carefully check requirements for each country you’ll visit well before you depart, and again a few days before your trip. See the websites listed above for current requirements.
ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering Switzerland and other Schengen Zone countries (quick and easy process). For the latest, check www.etiasvisa.com.
Tourist Information: The Swiss national tourist office in the US is a wealth of information (+1 800 794 7795, MySwitzerland.com). Before your trip, download brochures (including regional and city maps, festival schedules, and hiking information).
In Switzerland, a good first stop in every town is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). While you can get plenty of information online, I still swing by to pick up a city map and get info on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Throughout Switzerland, you’ll find TIs are usually well organized and always have an English-speaking staff. Most TIs are run by the government, which means their information isn’t colored by a drive for profit.
Some TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so you can pick up maps for other destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip.
Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 from a mobile phone or landline (operators typically speak English). If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to the US embassy (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen items, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.
US Embassy in Bern: Dial +41 31 357 7011, services by appointment only; Mon-Fri 9:00-11:30, closed Sat-Sun—after-hours +41 31 357 7777; Sulgeneckstrasse 19, Ch.usembassy.gov/embassy/bern.
Canadian Embassy in Bern: Dial +41 31 357 3200, services by appointment only; Mon-Fri 8:30-11:30, closed Sat-Sun; Kirchenfeldstrasse 88, Switzerland.gc.ca.
Borders: Although Switzerland isn’t in the European Union, it does belong to the Schengen Zone, which means border controls are a wave-through. Even so, remember that when you change countries, you also change currencies, country dialing codes, and Unterhosen. (You’ll still go through a full passport control when flying to or from non-Schengen countries, including the UK.)
Time Zones: Switzerland, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).
Business Hours: In large cities, shops are generally open Monday through Friday 9:00-18:30 (later on Thursday) and Saturday 8:00-17:00. Smaller shops, and all shops in villages, typically close for one or two hours at lunchtime—often from 12:00 to 14:00. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open, while shops and banks are closed, public transportation options are fewer, and there’s no rush hour. Many sights are closed on Monday (head for the hills).
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and newer appliances (newer hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US.
Switzerland uses its own style of electrical plugs, not shared with any other country in Europe: three slim round prongs arranged in a triangular shape: Don’t buy an adapter with the thicker (“Schuko” style) prongs—it won’t work. You’ll often see wall sockets with a three-plug cloverleaf pattern. If you already have an adapter for European plugs, you may not need another adapter for Switzerland—European plugs will fit in Swiss sockets if the prongs are of the slimmer type and ungrounded, and if the body of the adapter is small enough to fit in a recessed outlet. If your adapter doesn’t work in your hotel room’s sockets, ask your hotelier if they have one you can borrow, or buy one locally.
Rip up this book! Turn chapters into mini guidebooks: Break the book’s spine and use a utility knife to slice apart chapters, keeping gummy edges intact. Reinforce the chapter spines with clear wide tape; use a heavy-duty stapler; or make or buy a cheap cover (see the Travel Store at RickSteves.com), swapping out chapters as you travel.
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 65 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only to European citizens.
Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com and DeepL.com are also handy. The Google Translate app converts spoken or typed English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera.
Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint when traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them). Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). Skip printed brochures, maps, or other materials that you don’t plan to keep—get your info online instead. To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with a self-imposed carbon tax, see RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.
Money
Here’s my basic strategy for using money wisely in Europe. I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Credit Card: You’ll use your credit card for purchases both big (hotels, advance tickets) and small (little shops, food stands). Some European businesses have gone cashless, making a card your only payment option. A “tap-to-pay” or “contactless” card is the most widely accepted and simplest to use.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw a small amount of local cash. Wait until you arrive to get francs (European airports have plenty of ATMs); if you buy francs before your trip, you’ll pay bad stateside exchange rates. While most transactions are by card these days, cash can help you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work, and can be useful to pay for things like tips and local guides. But don’t take out too much, or you may find you can’t use it all.
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank) in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.
Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency (for example, if your debit card gets eaten by the machine).
BEFORE YOU GO
Know your cards. For credit cards, Visa and MasterCard are universal while American Express and Discover are less common. US debit cards with a Visa or MasterCard logo will work in any European ATM.
Go “contactless.” Get comfortable using contactless pay options. Check to see if you already have—or can get—a tap-to-pay version of your credit card (look on the card for the tap-to-pay symbol—four curvy lines), and consider setting up your smartphone for contactless payment (see next section for details). Both options are widely used in Europe and are more secure than a physical credit card: Instead of recording your credit card number, a one-time encrypted “token” enables the purchase and expires shortly afterward.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for each of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases. Allow time to receive the information by mail—it’s not always possible to obtain your PIN online or by phone.
Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can withdraw daily and ask for a higher daily limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not savings accounts.
Find out about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or MasterCard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new card. Reputable no-fee cards include those from Capital One, as well as Charles Schwab debit cards. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.
IN EUROPE
Using Credit Cards and Payment Apps
Tap-to-Pay or Contactless Cards: These cards have the usual chip and/or magnetic stripe, but with the addition of a contactless symbol. Simply tap your card against a contactless reader to complete a transaction—no PIN or signature is required. This is by far the easiest way to pay and has become the standard in much of Europe. Some small businesses (such as market stalls or food stands) accept only tap cards, and sometimes don’t accept cash.
Payment Apps: Just like at home, you can pay with your smartphone or smartwatch by linking a credit card to an app such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. To pay, hold your phone near a contactless reader; you may need to verify the transaction with a face scan, fingerprint scan, or passcode. If you’ve arrived in Europe without a tap-to-pay card, you can easily set up your phone to work in this way.
Other Card Types: Chip-and-PIN cards have a visible chip embedded in them; rather than swiping, you insert the card into the payment machine, then enter your PIN on a keypad. Swipe-and-sign credit cards—with a swipeable magnetic stripe, and a receipt you have to sign—are increasingly rare.
Will My US Card Work? Usually, yes. On rare occasions, at self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks, tollbooths, or fuel pumps), some US cards may not work. Usually a tap-to-pay card does the trick in these situations. Just in case, carry cash as a backup and look for a cashier who can process your payment if your card is rejected. Drivers should be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. (In some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you can purchase with any US card). When approaching a toll plaza or ferry ticket line, use the “cash” lane.
Using Cash
Cash Machines: European cash machines work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate. In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in Switzerland, ask for a Bankomat or Geldautomat in German, or a distributeur in French. When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later.
Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Your Cash, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see next).
Dynamic Currency Conversion: When withdrawing cash at an ATM or paying with a credit card, you’ll often be asked whether you want the transaction processed in dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While DCC offers the illusion of convenience, it comes with a poor exchange rate, and you’ll wind up losing money.
Exchanging Cash: Minimize exchanging money in Europe; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). In a pinch you can find exchange desks at major train stations or airports. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
Security Tips
Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Avoid using a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while your bank investigates.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).
Damage Control for Lost Cards
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. With a mobile phone, call these 24-hour US numbers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), MasterCard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111). From a landline, you can call these US numbers collect by going through a local operator.
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see RickSteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.
TIPPING
Tipping in Switzerland isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: You don’t need to tip if you order your food at a counter. At Swiss restaurants that have a wait staff, it’s common to tip by rounding up (about 5-10 percent) after a good meal. If paying with a credit card, be prepared to tip separately with cash or coins; credit card receipts don’t often have a tip line. For more details on tipping in restaurants, see the “Eating” section, later.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is 13 CHF, pay 15 CHF). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.
Services: In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a franc or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
GETTING A VAT REFUND
Wrapped into the purchase price of your Swiss souvenirs is a value-added-tax (VAT) of about 8 percent (one of the lowest in Europe). You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than 300 CHF worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.
At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Europe.
At the Border or Airport: Process your VAT document at your last stop in Switzerland (such as the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds (allow plenty of extra time to deal with this process). At some airports, you’ll have to go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. At other airports, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing. (Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee, but you’re paying for the convenience of receiving your money in cash immediately or as a credit to your card.) Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant.
CUSTOMS FOR AMERICAN SHOPPERS
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit https://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing can be hard work. If you’re spending time in urban Switzerland, use these tips to make your museum visits meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
MAPS AND NAVIGATION TOOLS
A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. In Europe, simple maps are generally free at TIs and hotels.
You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device, which provides turn-by-turn directions for walking, driving, and taking public transit. Google Maps, Apple Maps, and CityMaps2Go allow you to download maps for offline use; ideally, download the areas you’ll need before your trip. For certain features, you’ll need to be online—either using Wi-Fi or an international data plan.
PLAN AHEAD
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. Since the Covid-19 pandemic, hours for museums and sights have been unstable. Both before and during your trip, confirm the latest opening days and times with the TI or on a museum or sight’s official website (listed throughout this book).
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas and New Year’s. A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually more peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
Study up. To get the most out of the sight descriptions in this book, read them before your visit.
SWISS TRAVEL PASS AND SWISS MUSEUM PASS
The Swiss Travel Pass (described on here) doubles as a Swiss Museum Pass while your pass is valid; the sights described in this book that are covered are listed below. The Museum Pass on its own costs about $180, covers admission to more than 500 museums, and is good for a year. For a full list of covered sights, see Museumspass.ch.
• Zürich: National Museum Zürich and Rietberg Museum
• Luzern: Rosengart Collection, History Museum, Luzern Museum of Art, Bourbaki Panorama, Glacier Garden, Richard Wagner Museum, and Fortress Fürigen Museum in nearby Stansstad; 50 percent off Swiss Transport Museum
• Bern: Museum of Fine Arts, Paul Klee Center, and Einstein Museum/Bern Historical Museum
• Murten and Nearby: Town Museum in Murten and Roman Museum in Avenches
• Near Interlaken: Museum of Tourism in Unterseen and Ballenberg Open-Air Museum in Brienz
• Zermatt: Matterhorn Museum
• Appenzell Region: Appenzell Museum, Appenzell’s two modern art museums, and folk museums in Stein and Urnäsch
• Lausanne: City History Museum, Collection de l’Art Brut, Lausanne Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts, Musée de l’Elysée, Museum for Contemporary Design and Applied Arts, and Olympic Museum
• Lake Geneva Region: Château de Chillon
• French Swiss Countryside: La Maison du Gruyère Cheese Factory, Musée Gruèrien, Gruyères Castle, H. R. Giger Museum, Tibet Museum, and Cailler Chocolate Factory
• Upper Engadine: Alpine Museum in Pontresina, Chesa Planta in Samedan, and Berry Museum and Engadiner Museum in St. Moritz
• Other Scenic Rail Journey Stops: Museo Casa Console in Poschiavo
AT SIGHTS
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check day packs and coats. (If you’d rather not check your day pack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Audioguides and Apps: Some sights offer audioguides with recorded descriptions in English. In some cases, you’ll rent a device to carry around (if you bring your own plug-in earbuds, you’ll enjoy better sound). Increasingly, museums and sights instead offer an app you can download with their audioguide (often free; check websites from home and consider downloading in advance as not all sights offer free Wi-Fi).
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy and air-conditioned places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.
Sleeping
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to your sightseeing.
My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to luxurious rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for Swiss traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and a fun-loving philosophy than oversized TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in Switzerland.
Some people make reservations a few days ahead as they travel. This approach fosters spontaneity, and booking sites make it easy to find available rooms, but—especially during busy times—you run the risk of settling for lesser-value accommodations.
RATES AND DEALS
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant. Part of the room price is a local tax (about $2-6 per person per night). In return, you get perks such as free local transport or museum discounts. In a few towns (and some types of accommodations) the tax is included in quoted room rates; in most others, it’s broken out.
Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking hotel websites and booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself. This increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). And when you book on the hotel’s website, by email, or by phone, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites, giving them wiggle room to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included).
Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show this book upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
TYPES OF ACCOMMODATIONS
Hotels
Swiss hotels are, generally speaking, clean, comfortable, and efficiently run by English-speaking staff. Plan on spending about $180-300 for a double room in a hotel or $120-175 for a double (with the bathroom down the hall) in a small guesthouse. Double rooms with bath for less than $175 are rare. Even dormitory beds are expensive.
Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.
Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. You may have to climb a flight of stairs to reach the elevator (if so, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up).
Swiss law requires hotels to collect your name, nationality, and passport number. At check-in, the receptionist might ask for your passport and may keep it for several hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk, bring a copy to give them instead.
Smoking is prohibited in many Swiss hotels, sometimes by law (depending on the region) and sometimes by choice. Nearly all the hotels I list are completely nonsmoking, and all of them offer nonsmoking rooms. If it’s important to you to have a nonsmoking room, ask for one.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV and free Wi-Fi, which can vary in strength and quality. Simpler places rarely have a room phone.
Breakfast and Meals: Swiss hotel breakfasts are usually excellent: fruit, eggs, muesli, cheese, fresh bread, and yogurt. Some places give you the option of skipping breakfast and paying less; you can buy breakfast items easily and cheaply at a bakery or supermarket—the savings add up, especially for families. Some places offer “half-board,” which means that dinner is included in the room price. This is often a good deal and gets you a hassle-free, value-priced three-course meal, but limits your choices.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.
If you think that night noise might be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
Pensions
Compared to hotels, pensions (small guesthouses) and rooms in private homes give you double the cultural intimacy for half the price. While you may lose some of the conveniences of a hotel—such as lounges, in-room phones, daily bed-sheet changes, and credit-card payments—I happily make the tradeoff for the lower rates and personal touches.
Small guesthouses go by several inexact German names: Pension, Gasthaus, Gästezimmer, even “B&B” (in French, it’s also pension). In many parts of Switzerland, people rent out rooms (Zimmer) in their homes to travelers. Look for Zimmer Frei, Zimmer mit Frühstück, or Privatzimmer signs in German-speaking areas and chambres d’hôte in French Switzerland.
Don’t confuse Privatzimmer with the Ferienwohnung, which is a self-catering apartment rented out by the week or fortnight.
Camping and Other Budget Beds
Campers can manage with listings at EuroCampings.co.uk or with help from the local TI (ask for a regional camping listing). Your hometown travel bookstore should also have guidebooks on camping in Europe. You’ll find campgrounds just about everywhere you need them. Look for Campingplatz signs. You’ll meet lots of Europeans, as camping is a popular, middle-class-family way to go. Campgrounds are cheap ($10 per person), friendly, safe, more central and convenient than rustic, and rarely full.
A fluffy straw bed awaits you at a number of farms that have opened their haylofts to sleepy tourists. It’s a fun hostel alternative and more comfortable than you’d think (for details, visit www.myfarm.ch, and search for “Sleeping on Straw”).
Many hotels and campsites provide dormitory-style accommodations in bunk-bedded rooms. These slumber mills may be less charming than cozy hostels, but they’re cheap and convenient.
Mountain Hotels: For hikers, the grand-but-rustic mountain hotels, many of which date back to the 19th century, are fine options. For many, the best part is sharing the tranquility and powerful remoteness with like-minded hikers who all are motivated to make the most of it. These hotels can be a hike of several hours from the nearest paved road or mountain lift, and generally have both double rooms and Matratzenlagers (lofts lined with mattresses). As there is no alternative, most expect visitors to get half-board (breakfast and dinner) with their reservations; food is good if simple (helicopter services deliver groceries weekly). Electricity can be limited or nonexistent—as can hot or even running water. A woody double room with half-board runs about $100 (dorm beds are cheaper). See www.sac-cas.ch for a map and database of Swiss mountain huts.
Short-Term Rentals
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, a house, or a room in a private residence—is a popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and VRBO let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com and RentaVilla.com can provide a more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive).
Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to public transportation, and how well connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-conditioning, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
Think about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self check-in and minimal contact; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require payment in full before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place for several nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or rental house, called Ferienwohnung in German. Apartment or house rentals can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.
Rooms in Private Homes: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some are interested in getting to know the travelers who pass through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com. To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
Hostels
Switzerland has a wonderful network of official hostels (Jugendherberge in German, auberge de jeunesse in French) that charge under $100 per night for beds (for a full list, see www.youthhostel.ch). Choose your hostel selectively: They can be cozy mountain chalets, serene lakeside villas—or antiseptic spaces overrun by noisy school groups. While official hostels are clean and predictable, they can also have an institutional feel.
Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Many hostels offer inexpensive evening meals (about 17-20 CHF), but there are also posh boutique hostels with in-house restaurants that are significantly more expensive. Expect youth groups in spring, crowds in the summer, snoring, and variability in quality from one hostel to the next. Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com or www.swissbackpackers.ch). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.
Eating
For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
The Swiss eat when we do and enjoy a straightforward, no-nonsense cuisine. Specialties include delicious fondue, rich chocolates, a melted cheese dish called raclette, Rösti (hash browns), fresh dairy products (try Birchermüesli for breakfast or an afternoon snack), 100 varieties of cheese, and Fendant—a good, crisp white wine.
The exorbitant prices at Swiss restaurants—up to double what you’d pay in neighboring Germany—mean that eating here demands some different strategies if you’re on a budget. Think of restaurants with table service as a luxury for special occasions, and self-service cafeterias and supermarkets as your everyday options. Bakeries also sell sandwiches, quiches, and the like. A night on the town can be a major splurge. Locals call sitting on the pavement around a bottle of wine “going out.”
If breakfast is included in your room price, don’t miss it. But if your hotel gives you the option to skip an expensive breakfast and pay a lower rate, consider saying yes and eating more cheaply on your own.
Tipping: If you buy food at a counter, don’t tip. Service is included at Swiss restaurants with table service, but it’s customary to round up the bill (5-10 percent; for a 19-CHF meal, pay 20 CHF. (Rounding up isn’t required, though, and no one will come running after you if you don’t.)
When paying, the Swiss tell the server how much they’d like the bill to be. For example, if paying for an 8.10-CHF drink with a 20-CHF bill, say “Nine francs” or (“Neun Franken”). The server will keep a .90-CHF tip and give you 11 CHF in change. With a card, just ask the server to round up the total to include the tip. (While uncommon in most of Europe, this is standard practice in Switzerland.) It’s unlikely that you’ll be given a receipt with a tip line to fill in, though a few restaurants may be adding these.
RESTAURANT PRICING
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a pleasant meal with good-quality food.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and refined cuisine.
BUDGET OPTIONS
Grocery Stores: The midrange Migros and Co-op grocery stores are the hungry hiker’s best budget bet. Larger stores have a great selection of prepared foods and picnic fixings. These include a huge variety of salads (green, potato, pasta, or meat—sometimes sold with a plastic fork), decorated hard-boiled eggs (called Picknickeier), premade sandwiches, delicious cheese, single portions of cake and ice cream, inexpensive chocolate bars, and sometimes, a hot-meal counter. You’ll also see Manor (“mah-NOR”), a more elegant supermarket chain, and Aldi, a discount grocery store with a limited range. Manor is actually a department store (and many Migros and Co-ops are as well), with the supermarket typically hiding in the basement.
By law, most supermarkets are required to close on Sunday, with exceptions for stores in train stations and in some towns where grocery stores are allowed to open for a few hours on Sunday afternoons (a controversial issue in Switzerland). In larger cities, supermarket chains have skirted the law by building big stores in malls attached to train stations.
In larger cities such as Bern, Co-op and Migros also have smaller outlets that focus on prepared foods for takeout. You’ll find many locals here, picking up lunch to enjoy on a park bench, at the office, or on a train ride.
Self-Service Cafeterias and Buffets: Cafeterias have good food at much lower prices than restaurants with table service. You’ll find them in most cities, usually at downtown branches of Manor, Co-op, and Migros supermarkets (in descending order of fanciness). In cities, some are on the top floor or even the rooftop—giving you a great view at budget prices.
Manor’s cafeterias (called “Manora”) feature lush salad bars, tasty entrées, and fresh-squeezed juices (I’ve listed several specific Manora locations in this book). Co-op and Migros cafeterias are only a little more modest. A main course at a cafeteria is usually cooked to order in front of you and will cost 14-19 CHF; drinks and dessert run about 3-4 CHF each. Some self-service cafeterias have free tap water, often hidden in an inconspicuous place to encourage diners to pay for bottled drinks.
While cafeteria food may not be inventive, it is typical, fresh, and high quality (these are supermarkets, after all); they’re also popular with locals. Eating some of your meals at cafeterias can free up money for splurges on traditional dishes at fine restaurants with table service.
Another common type of self-service eatery is a gourmet buffet (often vegetarian) that is charged by weight. Look for Hiltl (in Zürich) and the Tibits chain (in Zürich, Bern, and Luzern).
Hostels: Swiss hostels that belong to the Hosteling International network usually offer a fine four-course dinner for around 20 CHF, with free tap water—a great deal for guests. In a few cases this is open to nonguests, too, at a slightly higher price (call to reserve).
Global Food: Asian and Middle Eastern restaurants abound, but are generally not as much of a bargain as in neighboring countries (a döner kebab costs around 10 CHF and a main course at an Asian restaurant about 20 CHF). The same goes for pizzerias, which are often upscale places with table service and 20-CHF pies; takeout orders are often slightly cheaper than the sit-down price.
RESTAURANTS
The cheapest main courses at Swiss restaurants start at around 20 CHF—typically starchy dishes topped with meat or cheese (pasta, pizza, and potato dishes) or sausages with kraut or potato salad. Meat courses (served with a starch and vegetable) will run you 28-45 CHF at an average restaurant. Many restaurants offer a daily special—a main course for about 25 CHF (at least Mon-Fri at lunch, sometimes weekends and evenings, too). High-priced drinks can quickly run up the cost of a meal.
Different kinds of restaurants offer different experiences. Hotels often serve fine food. A Gaststätte is a simple, less expensive restaurant. A Weinstübli (wine bar) or Bierstübli (tavern) usually serves food, too. Mountain huts—called Hütte—generally have hot chocolate and hearty meat-and-potato meals. Smoking is no longer allowed inside Switzerland’s eateries (though a few places skirt the laws with enclosed verandas for smokers). If you’re not too hungry, order from the kleine Hunger (small hunger) section of the menu.
Most restaurants tack a menu onto their door for browsers and have an English menu inside. If you ask for the Menü (or menu in French), you won’t get a list of dishes; you’ll get a fixed-price meal of several courses. If you simply want a list of what’s cooking, ask for die Speisekarte (dee SHPIE-zeh-kar-teh; la carte in French).
Only a rude server will rush you. Good service is relaxed (slow to an American). To wish others “Happy eating!” offer a cheery “En Guete!” When you want the bill, request “Die Rechnung, bitte.” (See the survival phrases in the appendix for more tips.)
SWISS CUISINE
Here at this meeting point of European cultures, a region’s food is heavily influenced by the cuisine of neighboring countries. You’ll find heavy wurst-and-kraut fare in German-speaking areas; delicate, subtle French cuisine in the west; and pasta and polenta dishes all’Italiana in Ticino. In alpine regions, most meals are still built on the hardy ingredients that can be produced and stored in the mountains: cheese, potatoes, onions, cheese, cabbage, sausage, cheese, cured meat...and more cheese.
Traditional Dishes
Aside from clocks and banks, Switzerland is known for its cheese. Gruyère cheese is hard, with a strong flavor; Emmentaler is also hard, but milder (and looks like what we call “Swiss cheese”). Appenzeller is the incredibly pungent cheese from the northeast of Switzerland, with a smell that verges on nauseating...until you taste it.
Two of Switzerland’s best-known specialties are cheese-based. (Swiss people typically eat these at home, so restaurants featuring them tend to cater to tourists.) Käsefondue is usually Emmentaler and Gruyère cheese melted with white wine, garlic, nutmeg, and other seasonings. You use a long fork to dip cubes of bread into it. The price for fondue is calculated per person (about 25-30 CHF), and most restaurants have a two-person minimum. While the Swiss consider fondue a winter-only meal, it’s served year-round in touristed areas, and there’s nothing silly about eating it “out of season.” Note that “meat fondue,” in which you cook raw meat in broth at your table, is not typically Swiss. Sometimes called fondue chinoise (Chinese fondue), this is an Asian-style hot pot.
Raclette is cheese slowly melted on a special appliance; as it softens, scrape a mound off and eat it with potatoes, pickled onions, and gherkins. (In restaurants, raclette sometimes comes as little slices of cheese already melted.)
Another must-try dish, most typical in the mountains of the German-speaking areas, is Rösti—sort of like hash browns. The potatoes are grated coarsely, then often molded into a loose, round patty. Try Rösti topped with alpine cheese, a bit of bacon or ham, or with an egg cracked over it...yum.
Each region has its own specialties. In French-speaking Switzerland, white wine and heavy cream are used in many dishes, and you’ll occasionally see horsemeat on the menu. The cuisine in eastern Switzerland (Pontresina, St. Moritz) uses chestnuts in many forms, wild mushrooms, and air-dried beef. Southwestern Switzerland (Zermatt area) specializes in all kinds of cheese, and their favorite white wine is Fendant.
Despite all the cheese and potatoes, the Swiss tend to be health-conscious; after all, they invented muesli. While the dry muesli served at breakfast buffets is unremarkable, Birchermüesli—a yummy mixture of fresh yogurt, fresh fruit, nuts, and juice- or milk-soaked oats—is worth trying. Restaurants often feature a Fitnessteller (“fitness plate”)—usually a large mixed salad that comes with steak, chicken, or fish. Bio means organically grown (a Biolädeli is a store that sells organic products).
Of course, on the other end of the health spectrum, there’s the famous Swiss chocolate. The vast variety of chocolate flavors available in any Swiss supermarket—let alone a specialty chocolate shop—is staggering. Only chocolate actually produced in the country is granted the honor of being called Swiss. Stroll the chocolate aisle of a grocery store and take your pick.
Beverages
Wine: Swiss wine is good, but expensive because of high production costs and mostly small vineyards. The Swiss certainly have plenty of winemaking experience—they’ve been growing grapes since Roman times. Since Swiss wine is not well known outside of the country, and very little is exported, this is your chance to try the local Wein/vin/vino. About two-thirds of the production is white, and much of that is made from the Chasselas (a.k.a. Fendant) grape. Swiss specialties include the red Dole (a light-bodied blend of pinot noir and gamay grapes), Gutedel (or Chasselas; full, fruity, dry white); Fendant (a dry white that pairs well with cheese dishes), St. Saphorin (lovely, fruity white from Lake Geneva), and Merlot del Ticino (full-bodied red from Italian-speaking Switzerland).
Menus list drink size by the “deci”—a deciliter (dl, tenth of a liter). In German-speaking areas, order wine by the Glas (glass) or Viertel (quarter liter, or 8 ounces). Order it süss (sweet), halb trocken (medium), or trocken (dry); weiss (white), or rot (red). To order white wine, for instance, you can say, “Ein Viertel Weisswein, bitte.” For fun, try ordering the same thing in colloquial Swiss German: “Ä Viertel Wiisewyy, bitte” (ih FEER-tehl VEE-seh-vee, BIT-teh).
In French Switzerland, wine comes either by le verre (a glass, 1-2 dl), la carafe (3 dl or 5 dl), or la bouteille (bottle). Order by requesting “Un verre de vin blanc, s’il vous plaît” (or “vin rouge” if you prefer red). In the Ticino region, un boccalino is a small, decorated 8-ounce ceramic jug filled with the local red wine.
Beer: Swiss beer is surprisingly good and inexpensive. Most of the beer is light, golden-colored lager, but you’ll also find other types, such as Hefeweizen and Dunkel (dark) beers. Each pub has one brand of a local beer on tap, with others available in bottles. Feldschlössen is the largest brewery in the country, and you’ll see its red-castle logo all over. But the Swiss are loyal to their local brews; for example, in the Appenzell region, Appenzeller is the beer of choice. The standard size, measured in centiliters (cl), is a Stange (33 cl); the smaller size is called a Herrgöttli (20 cl). Beer mixed with lemon-flavored soda or Citro (lemonade) is called a Panaché. In summer, this lightly sweet, sudsy drink is more refreshing than straight beer.
Water: Switzerland has a tradition of free fountains, with fresh, mountain-chilled water, in squares and other central points around cities and towns. I assume I can fill my bottle from any well-maintained public fountain unless I see a sign saying otherwise (kein Trinkwasser means it’s not potable). At restaurants, tap water, which many servers aren’t eager to bring you, is Leitungswasser (l’eau du robinet in French). Ask for it by name, or you’ll receive—and be charged for—Mineralwasser (mit/ohne Gas, with/without carbonation).
Other Nonalcoholic Drinks: Instead of Coke, try the local favorite, Rivella, a carbonated, vitamin-rich soft drink made with 35 percent whey (called “milk serum” on the label). Its unusual—but not unpleasant—taste isn’t milky at all; it’s more like chewable vitamins. It comes in several color-coded varieties: Red is regular; blue is low-calorie; green is mixed with green tea. Süssmost is apple juice.
As an alternative to hot chocolate, try Ovomaltine. The Swiss have a fondness for this hot drink powder—the main ingredient is barley malt, flavored with chocolate so kids will drink it, and fortified with vitamins. (In the US and Britain, Ovaltine is a variation on this drink.) Crispy, Ovomaltine-flavored chocolate bars are also popular for their malted-milk-ball taste.
If you’re hiking or skiing, and you stop at a mountain hut for a hot cocoa or Ovomaltine, a key word to know is Mélange—which tops the drink with whipped cream.
Staying Connected
One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer? More easily and affordably than you might think.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it much as you would at home, following the money-saving tips below, such as getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning.
USING YOUR PHONE IN EUROPE
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (for example, T-Mobile’s covers data and text, but not voice calls).
Before your trip, research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts) and connect to Wi-Fi as needed. When you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) just long enough for the task at hand.
Even with an international data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype or FaceTime, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app content. Check your device’s settings menu for ways to turn this off, and change your email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, WhatsApp, FaceTime, and Google Meet are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. Just log on to a Wi-Fi network, then connect with friends, family members, or local contacts who use the same service.
Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls, need a local phone number, or your provider’s international data rates are expensive, consider buying a SIM card in Europe to replace the one in your (unlocked) US phone or tablet. SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters and some newsstands (you may need to show your passport), and vending machines. If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop.
Since Switzerland is not part of the EU, you’ll often pay high roaming charges when you use a SIM card from another European country here. To be on the safe side, remove any other European cards from your phone unless you know they include a reasonably priced Switzerland plan. Visit a store run by one of the major Swiss phone operators (Swisscom and Sunrise) and ask about their talk, text, and data options.
Here’s how to dial from anywhere in the US or Europe, using the phone number of one of my recommended Gimmelwald hotels as an example (033 855 3575). If a number starts with 0, drop it when dialing internationally (except when calling Italy).
Phone numbers in this book are presented exactly as you would dial them from a US mobile phone. For international access, press and hold 0 (zero) to get a + sign, then dial the country code (41 for Switzerland) and phone number.
To call the Gimmelwald hotel from any location, dial +41 33 855 3575.
Replace + with 011 (US/Canada access code), then dial the country code (41 for the Switzerland) and phone number.
To call the Gimmelwald hotel from your home landline, dial 011 41 33 855 3575.
Replace + with 00 (Europe access code), then dial the country code (41 for Switzerland, 1 for the US) and phone number.
To call the Gimmelwald hotel from a German landline, dial 00 41 33 855 3575.
To call my US office from a Dutch landline, dial 00 1 425 771 8303.
To place a domestic call (from a Swiss landline or mobile), drop +41 and dial the phone number (including the initial 0).
To call the Gimmelwald hotel from Bern, dial 033 855 3575.
Local Numbers: European phone numbers and area codes can vary in length and spacing, even within the same country. Mobile phones use separate prefixes (for instance, in Switzerland, mobile numbers begin with 07).
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: It’s generally not possible to dial European toll or toll-free numbers from a US mobile or landline (although you can sometimes get through using Skype). Look for a direct-dial number instead.
Calling the US from a US Mobile Phone, While Abroad: Dial +1, area code, and number.
More Phoning Help: See HowToCallAbroad.com.
WITHOUT A MOBILE PHONE
It’s less convenient but possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can make calls from your hotel and check email or get online using public computers.
Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls. You can use a prepaid international phone card (usually available at newsstands, tobacco shops, and train stations) to call out from your hotel.
Some hotels have public computers in their lobbies for guests to use; otherwise you may find them at public libraries (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). On a European keyboard, use the “Alt Gr” key to the right of the space bar to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy and paste it from a web page.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and search for “Know Before You Go.” The Swiss postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (DHL.com).
Transportation
Because Switzerland’s train network is excellent, I recommend using public transportation here. Only a few areas—like the Appenzell region and the French Swiss countryside—are better by car. Cars are an expensive headache in the bigger cities. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.
TRAINS
Trains in Switzerland are generally slick, speedy, and punctual, with synchronized connections. They’re also clean, roomy, and nonsmoking. Few places in Switzerland are out of reach of the train system—but those that are can be reached by bus (in rural areas, the yellow PostBuses usually run in sync with trains).
Virtually all Swiss stations have luggage lockers. In smaller towns, lockers are sometimes too small to fit larger bags, but if asked nicely the ticket office will usually store bigger luggage for the same price.
Many Swiss trains and stations are marked “SBB CFF FFS.” All those letters mean the same thing (“Swiss Federal Railways”), in three different languages: German, French, and Italian. Quite a few of Switzerland’s trains are, however, run by small private companies—particularly in mountain areas. Though private, these companies all take part in the same website with schedule and pricing information.
Schedules
For timetables and online tickets, visit the official SBB website (www.sbb.ch; www.rail.ch gets you straight to the English version). Better yet, download and use the SBB Mobile app, which includes up-to-the-moment departure information on trains, buses, and even many funiculars and boats throughout Switzerland. This is a great tool whether you’re using public trams in a big city, or traveling across the country. (For in-city transit, Google Maps has similar information and may be easier to use.) Note: Prices shown on the SBB website and app look deceptively low, as by default, it assumes you have a Swiss Half-Fare Card (as most Swiss do). To see the full price, select “No Discount.” Germany’s excellent all-Europe timetable, www.bahn.com, also covers Switzerland, but doesn’t always give fare information. Although Switzerland has a 24-hour train-info number, it’s so expensive that using it is a last resort (+41 848 44 66 68).
In stations, yellow posters show departures, but not arrival times at destinations. At the cost of waiting in line, ticket-office staff will print out a step-by-step itinerary for you, free of charge. It can help to know that most routes follow a regular schedule, with the same pattern usually repeated every hour or half-hour.
Intercity trains (IC, ICN, and EC) are the fastest, interregional trains (IR) come next, “regional expresses” (RE) skip minor stops, and most other trains (including those beginning with S) stop at all stops. Knowing these codes can help you save time by zeroing in on the fastest train available.
Tickets
If you’re traveling without a rail pass, get train tickets online, on the SBB Mobile app, or at the station—either at the ticket windows, or at the easy-to-use machines. You’re not normally allowed to buy your ticket on board the train. The penalty for boarding a train without a ticket is 90 CHF—which Swiss conductors strictly enforce.
When buying point-to-point train tickets in Switzerland, watch for “supersaver” fares that give you a discount off the regular price, but restrict you to one departure time and aren’t changeable. Regular undiscounted fares are tied to a given route on a particular day, but not a specific departure time. Tickets on fast trains often cost the same or only a little more than tickets on slower trains.
At larger stations, ticket offices may have separate windows for international travel, which close earlier than the regular domestic sales windows.
The Swiss rarely make seat reservations on trains. Reservations are important only on certain special or international trains (for example, they’re required on the Glacier Express, the Gotthard Panorama Express, and on TGV trains to France). They can also provide peace of mind at busy travel times (the Rail.ch website helpfully indicates how crowded a train is expected to be). Buy seat reservations at any ticket counter, online, or via the SBB Mobile app.
If you’re waiting on the platform for your train, and you have a reserved seat or are planning to sit in first class, look for blue diagrams or monitor displays that show the sector of the platform where the various cars in the train will stop (usually A through F). Stand in the appropriate sector to avoid a last-minute dash to your car or a long walk through the train to your seat.
Rail Passes
Because of high ticket prices, rail passes are a good deal in Switzerland, often even for just a three-day trip. For such a little country, Switzerland has a dizzying array of train passes and deals—but for most travelers, the Swiss Travel Pass is the way to go. For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail pass options for your train trip, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
Swiss Travel Pass: If you’re going to Switzerland to relax, this pass may be overkill, but if you’re hoping to pack a lot in, the convenience and likely cost savings of the Swiss Travel Pass are huge. While not cheap, it includes rail travel throughout Switzerland, lake boats, buses, in-city transit, most museums in the country, and a half-price discount on most high-mountain trains and lifts. And it’s super-convenient: Rather than nickel-and-diming as you go, flashing your Swiss Travel Pass instantly opens doors all over the country.
Will you be better off buying a rail pass or point-to-point tickets? It pays to know your options and choose what’s best for your itinerary.
A Swiss Travel Pass lets you travel by train in Switzerland for three to fifteen days (consecutively or not) within a one-month period. This pass also covers boats, buses, many museum admissions, and gives discounts on mountain trains and lifts.
Switzerland is also covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass. It’s generally cheaper to buy one pass for your whole trip than separate, single-country passes. But since Eurail passes don’t cover all the same extras that a Swiss Travel Pass does, different combinations are worth considering.
Switzerland’s many travel options also include a one-month Half-Fare Card for discounts on individual point-to-point tickets and various local or regional passes.
While most rail passes are sold electronically by international agents like Rick Steves’ Europe, the Swiss Travel Pass and related products are also sold at train stations in Switzerland and at www.rail.ch (search for “Swiss Travel Pass”). For more on rail passes, including current prices and purchasing, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go train fares for your itinerary and compare that to the price of a rail pass. A pass can help with expensive lift tickets and other bonuses in Switzerland, so remember to include these in your comparison.
Map shows approximate costs, in US dollars, for one-way, second-class tickets.
The pass comes in both consecutive-day and flexipass versions. Both versions cover the cost of most transportation options for a specified number of days (but do not cover seat reservations). Second class is 35 percent cheaper than first class. They are phasing out the paper pass in favor of an electronic version, which you’ll show on your phone (or you can print it out).
Swiss Half-Fare Card: This card gives you a 50 percent discount off all national and private trains, PostBuses, boats, and many lifts ($125 for one month). This can save you money if your Swiss travel adds up to more than $250 in point-to-point tickets.
Swiss Family Card: This card allows children ages 6-15 to travel free with their parents who are using a Swiss Travel Pass or one-month Half-Fare Card for visitors (kids are free even on high-mountain routes where the parents may pay extra). If parents are not buying a pass, the similar Swiss Junior Travelcard costs 30 CHF/1 child or 60 CHF/2 or more children at Swiss stations, valid for one year. A Children’s Co-Travelcard works for non-parents (30 CHF/each child). Children under 6 always travel free.
Eurail Global Pass: This pass covers most European railways for as few as three travel days within a month or as long as three months continuously in either first or second class. They can make sense if Switzerland is part of a multicountry trip. All Eurail passes allow up to two kids (ages 4-11) to travel free with each adult, and rates are discounted for youths under 28 or seniors age 60 or older.
Rail Pass Bonuses and Discounts: If you buy a rail pass, know what extras are included—for example, Swiss Travel Passes can get you free entry to many museums and discounts on many mountain lifts. Always ask. The Eurail Global Pass also includes some deals in Switzerland beyond simple trains (such as discounts on lake boats and some mountain lifts), but the coverage and discounts aren’t as extensive as the Switzerland-only passes. (For example, lifts in Zermatt are discounted and PostBuses nationwide are free with a Swiss Travel Pass, but both are full price with a Global Pass.)
If your rail pass is a flexipass (covering a certain number of days spread over a longer span, rather than consecutive days), it pays to maximize the benefits you use on a single calendar day. With a flexi version of a Swiss Travel Pass, all coverage and discounts are offered only on the counted travel days. Even if you use the pass just for a short bus ride, a museum entrance, or a discounted ticket, you start the use of a flexi-day. If you don’t have more travel planned on the same day, it can make sense to pay out of pocket rather than using a valuable day of your flexipass.
With a Eurail Global Pass, discounted (but not free) trips—most notably many mountain lifts—are still offered at the lower price anytime within the validity window (not just on a flexi-day).
Train Tips
Scenic Rail Journeys: In addition to being convenient for transportation, many of Switzerland’s trains are also breathtakingly scenic. Several trips are particularly beautiful and billed as special “theme” routes for tourists. For many visitors, these are a Swiss highlight, and I’ve devoted an entire chapter to them (see the Scenic Rail Journeys chapter).
Using Rail Passes on Private Lines: Switzerland has some privately owned train lines. Most notably, the private Jungfrau Railway operates the trains from Interlaken up the Lauterbrunnen Valley and to the Jungfraujoch. In this region, Swiss Travel Pass coverage switches to just a discount above Wengen, Grindelwald, or Mürren, but Eurail Global Pass coverage switches to a discount once you board a Jungfrau Railway train at Interlaken. If your rail pass doesn’t cover an entire journey, pay for the “uncovered” portion at the station before you board the train.
Check Your Bags: If you’re town- or mountain-hopping through Switzerland by train, a great way to lighten your load is by sending your baggage ahead (drop it off at the station before 19:00, pay 12 CHF with ticket or rail pass, maximum 55 pounds). Your bag will show up at the designated station within 36 hours of your arrival (usually faster) and will be held for four days for free (after that, it’s a few francs a day). Door-to-door delivery is available with an additional flat fee of 40 CHF per travel group and offers a same-day express upgrade in some locations for another 30 CHF per group. See www.rail.ch for details.
The Swiss have come up with an impressive variety of ways to conquer peaks and reach the best viewpoints and trailheads with minimum sweat. Known generically as “lifts,” each of these contraptions has its own name and definition. Use the right terms, and impress your new Swiss friends.
Cogwheel Train: A train that climbs a steep incline using a gear system, which engages “teeth” in the middle of the tracks to provide traction. Also known as “rack-and-pinion train” or “rack railway.” In German, it’s a Zahnradbahn (train à cremaillère in French and ferrovia a cremagliera in Italian).
Funicular: A car that is pulled by a cable along tracks up a particularly steep incline, often counterbalanced by a similar car going in the opposite direction (which you’ll pass halfway through the ride). Funiculars, like cogwheel trains, are in contact with the ground at all times. In German, it’s a Standseilbahn (funiculaire in French and funicolare in Italian).
Cable Car: A large passenger car, suspended in the air by a cable, which travels between stations without touching the ground. A cable car holds a large number of people (sometimes dozens at a time), who generally ride standing up. When a cable car reaches a station, it comes to a full stop to allow passengers to get on and off. In German, it’s a Seilbahn (téléphérique in French and funivia in Italian).
Gondola: Also suspended in the air by a cable, but smaller than a cable car—generally holding fewer than 10 people, who are usually seated. Gondolas move continuously, meaning that passengers have to hop into and out of the moving cars at stations. Generally, gondolas have many smaller cars strung along the same cable. In German, it’s a Gondel (télécabine in French and telecabine in Italian). Confusingly, the “car” compartment of a cable car is sometimes referred to as a “gondola.”
Bike ’n’ Rail: You can rent a bike at more than 80 Swiss rail stations, usually at the baggage counter, for 38 CHF per day (33 CHF with rail pass; 27 CHF/half-day, 22 CHF with rail pass, helmets included). You may be able to return the bike at another station (10 CHF extra, no half-day discount). They also have electric bikes, tandem bikes, and kids’ bikes. For more information, see www.rail.ch under “Station & Services.” Though not required, online reservations are encouraged. For suggested bike routes in Switzerland, visit www.veloland.ch.
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
While most European taxis are reliable and cheap, Swiss taxis are expensive (Zürich’s were recently ranked among the priciest in the world). Public transit is extremely efficient; using it to get to outlying sights or an airport is still the best option. If you like ride-booking services such as Uber, their apps work in Zürich, Lausanne, and Geneva just like they do in the US: Request a car on your mobile phone (connected to Wi-Fi or data), and the fare is automatically charged to your credit card.
RENTING A CAR
It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (AutoEurope.com or the often cheaper AutoEurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.
Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
Rental Costs and Considerations
If you book well in advance, expect to pay roughly $350-500 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking.
Manual vs. Automatic: Almost all rental cars in Europe are manual by default—and cars with a stick shift are generally cheaper. If you need an automatic, reserve one specifically. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.
Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car-rental websites.
Choosing Pick-Up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.
Have the Right License: If you’re renting a car in Switzerland, bring your driver’s license. If you’re also planning to drive in Austria or Italy, you’re also technically required to have an International Driving Permit—an official translation of your license (sold at AAA offices for about $20 plus the cost of two passport-type photos; see AAA.com). How this is enforced varies: I’ve never needed one.
Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.
Car Insurance Options
When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW; also called “loss damage waiver” or LDW by some firms) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (free, but more complicated), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW costs $15-30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your card company about how it works.
If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical option. For example, Travel Guard (TravelGuard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.
For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.
Navigation Options
If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.
Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your mobile phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—also have offline route directions, but you’ll need mobile data access for current traffic. For more on using a mapping app without burning through data, see “Using Your Phone in Europe,” earlier.
GPS Devices: If you want a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car (about $20/day, or sometimes included—ask). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Make sure you know how to use the device—and that the language is set to English—before you drive off.
Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always have a paper map—ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at a local gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.
DRIVING
You can get anywhere quickly on Switzerland’s fine road system, the world’s most expensive per mile to build.
Road Rules: By law, you must use your headlights day and night in Switzerland (driving without them on will earn you a 40-CHF fine). Seat belts are required, and two beers under those belts are enough to land you in jail. Children under 12 (yes, 12) need to ride in a child-safety seat. Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, like many other European countries, Switzerland forbids handheld mobile-phone use. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the “International Travel” section of the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn About Your Destination” box, then click on “Travel & Transportation”).
Tolls: Drivers pay an annual 40-CHF fee for a permit to use Swiss autobahns. Check to see if your rental car already has one of these windshield stickers, called a “vignette”—if you picked it up in Switzerland, it most likely does. If not, buy it at border crossings, gas stations, post offices, or car-rental agencies. Anyone caught driving on a Swiss autobahn (indicated by green signs with a white expressway symbol) without this tax sticker is likely to be stopped and slapped with a steep fine (200 CHF plus the 40-CHF fee).
Fuel: Gas and diesel are both expensive—often around $8 per gallon. US credit and debit cards may not work at pay-at-the-pump stations, but are generally accepted (with a PIN code) at staffed stations. Diesel rental cars are common; make sure you know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Some pumps are color-coded: Unleaded pumps are green and labeled “E,” while diesel pumps (often yellow or black) are labeled “B.”
Signage: Know the universal road signs (shown in this chapter and explained in charts in most road atlases and at service stations). Dreieck (literally, “three corners”) means a Y in the road; Autobahnkreuz is an intersection (carrefour in French). Exits are spaced about 20 miles apart and often have a gas station (bleifrei/sans plomb are German/French for “unleaded”), a restaurant, a minimart, and sometimes a tourist information desk. Exits and intersections refer to the next major city or the nearest small town. Look at your map and anticipate which town names to watch out for. Know what you’re looking for—miss it, and you’re long autobahn-gone. When navigating, you’ll see Nord, Süd, Ost, West, or Mitte (nord, sud, est, ouest, or centre in French).
To get to the center of a city, follow signs for Zentrum or Stadtmitte (centre-ville in French). Ring roads go around a city.
Parking: Even in small towns, prime parking spots usually require payment. But it’s easy to find free short-term parking in relatively central “blue zone” spaces, which require a blue cardboard “parking disc” clock (Parkscheibe, available free at TIs, gas stations, police stations, and Tabak shops). It’s easy: Display your arrival time on the clock (you can scoot it up to the nearest full hour or half-hour) and put it on the dashboard, so parking attendants can see how long you’ve been there. Unless the sign indicates otherwise, you can park for free for an hour past the time set on your clock. If you arrive after 11:30, you can leave your car till 14:30, and if you arrive after 18:00, you’re good until 9:00 the next day. Blue zones aren’t patrolled overnight (19:00-8:00) or on Sundays, so you don’t need to display a disc during those times.
FLIGHTS
To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: Kayak is the top site for flights to and within Europe, easy-to-use Google Flights has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the cost for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.
Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see my hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at RickSteves.com/hub-airports.
Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet and Ryanair. Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and a larger carbon footprint than a train or bus.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.com for the latest rules).
Resources from Rick Steves
Begin Your Trip at RickSteves.com
My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of travel talks; my travel blog; our latest guidebook updates (RickSteves.com/update); and the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.
Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (RickSteves.com/forums).
Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (RickSteves.com/shop).
Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (RickSteves.com/rail).
Rick Steves Tours, Guidebooks, TV Shows, and More
Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. Each year about 30,000 travelers join us on about 1,000 Rick Steves bus tours. You’ll enjoy great guides and a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers). You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to get our tour catalog, visit RickSteves.com/tours or call us at +1 425 608 4217.
Books: This book is just one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket Guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books, cruising guides, and travelogues on European art, history, and culture—appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows and Travel Talks: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year (watch full episodes at my website for free). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (Classroom.RickSteves.com). And to raise your travel I.Q., check out the video versions of our popular classes (covering most European countries as well as travel skills, packing smart, cruising, tech for travelers, European art, and travel as a political act—RickSteves.com/travel-talks).
Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced dozens of free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, see here.
Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.
Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a weekly selection of video clips from my public television show, my audio tours of Europe’s top sights, and live recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/watch-read-listen/audio/podcasts).