Experiences in Edinburgh — Rick Steves Scotland (5th Ed, 2024)

Rising up from the heart of Edinburgh, Holyrood Park is a lush green mountain squeezed between the parliament/Holyroodhouse (at the bottom of the Royal Mile) and my recommended B&B neighborhood south of the center. You can connect these two zones via an early-morning or late-evening hike (in June, the sun comes up early, and it stays light until nearly midnight). Or, for a more serious climb, make the ascent to the summit of Arthur’s Seat, the 822-foot-tall remains of an extinct volcano. You can run up like they did in Chariots of Fire, or just stroll. At the summit, you’ll be rewarded with commanding views of the town and surroundings.

Hiking along the Salisbury Crags: There are three ways to connect the Royal Mile and the B&B neighborhood to the south by foot. Unfortunately, the most scenic option, the Radical Road route along the Salisbury Crags, has been closed since 2018 due to rock falls. There are plans to reinforce the rocks and reopen the path, so ask. The other alternatives are harder (hiking steeply up along the top of those cliffs), or easier but less scenic (walking across the meadow that fills the saddle of this promontory).

From the Royal Mile: Begin in the parking lot below the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Facing the cliff, you’ll see two trailheads. If the Radical Road trail to the right is open, take it. At the far end, you can descend into the Dalkeith Road area or continue steeply up the switchback trail to the Arthur’s Seat summit (described later). If the Radical Road trail is closed, head to the left (with the big play field on your left) and find the trail that cuts through the meadow across the saddle of land between the peaks. Alternatively, you can hike steeply up to the top of the Salisbury Crags for a more demanding, but scenic, hike. These trails meet up on the other side, near the base of the Arthur’s Seat hike.

From the B&B Neighborhood South of the Center: From the Commonwealth Pool, take Holyrood Park Road, bear left at the first roundabout, then turn right at the second roundabout (onto Queen’s Drive). Soon you’ll see the trailhead, which splits into various options. If the Radical Road to the left—under the dramatic cliffs—is open, take it for fantastic views as you head toward the Royal Mile. Otherwise, head straight ahead across the meadow. (See the map on here to trace these directions.) Or, for more of a hike, angle up to the left here to find a trail that goes along the top of the Salisbury Crags. The steep Piper’s Walk up to Arthur’s Seat also begins here, on the right.

Summiting Arthur’s Seat: For a moderately strenuous hike to a hilltop viewpoint right in the city center, consider summiting Arthur’s Seat. While the distance is not great, the hike is steep and the footing can be challenging, with irregularly spaced stone steps most of the way; as these have been worn smooth by hikers, they can be slippery on the way down, even when dry (and treacherous when wet). Those in great shape can make it from the park at the bottom to the summit in about 20 minutes; mere mortals should allow more time. The payoff at the top is sweeping, 360-degree views over all of Edinburgh and its surroundings.

The most direct route to the summit is the steep stone steps nicknamed the Piper’s Walk that rise straight up from above the B&B neighborhood side of the hill. For a more gradual approach, curl around the back of Arthur’s Seat (as you approach from the B&B area, hook around to the right). This 2.5-mile walk takes you scenically over Duddingston Loch (and Duddingston village, described later—for a longer hike, you can combine this walk with that one). When you reach the smaller lake called Dunsapie Loch, head up (either through the steep meadow or along the nearby trail) to reach the craggy top of Arthur’s Seat. (Taxis can take you as far up as the Dunsapie Loch car park—trimming the walk about in half—but you still face a steep ascent from here.) Regardless of how you approach, you’ll have to traverse the final, steep, rocky path to the summit, where intrepid hikers appreciate the grand views while taking turns snapping selfies at the block marking the highest point in Edinburgh.

▲Dean Village and the Water of Leith Walkway

The Water of Leith Walkway is a 12-mile, mostly level urban trail that follows Edinburgh’s river all the way to its historic port, at Leith. To escape the city on a refreshing, easy-to-follow stroll, you can follow just a short segment of the path. Locals enjoy the one-mile stretch from Roseburn to Dean Village, but the most popular option is to begin in Dean and walk a mile to Stockbridge, or to extend another half-mile or so to Canonmills near the Royal Botanic Garden (described below). For some light commentary en route, download free audio tour tracks at www.waterofleith.org.uk/walkway. Along the way, watch for a series of human-sized sculptures standing in the river, by British artist Antony Gormley (best known for the gigantic, winged Angel of the North statue you may have passed if you drove up here from England).

Beginning in Dean Village: Descend to the adorable Dean Village—situated along a bend in the river just along the northern edge of the West End. (It’s an easy walk from the New Town, and reachable by several buses—including #19 and #37.) With the lovely river gushing through its middle, Dean has two scenic bridges, a variety of higgledy-piggledy houses, and a gigantic red-brick social housing complex from 1884 with turrets and crenellations, giving it a certain Hogwarts air. Go on a little loop through Dean, crossing both the bigger stone bridge and the lower footbridge. While it seems cute as a pin today, Dean originated as a gritty industrial slum, with churning mills and waterwheels.

Dean Village to Stockbridge and the Royal Botanic Garden: To enjoy a short stretch of the walkway, leave Dean Village at the end near the stone bridge and follow the clearly marked brown Water of Leith Walkway signs along “Miller Row.” You’ll pass under a gigantic bridge (built by Thomas Telford in 1830), then an elegant Neoclassical structure housing St. Bernard’s Well. Soon you’ll reach Stockbridge. Pass under the first bridge, then—at the second bridge—cross over the river to find the trail that continues along the left bank. Stockbridge is an enjoyable place to poke around, with several restaurants, cafés, pubs, and the popular Golden Hare Books.

From Stockbridge, carry on, carefully tracking Water of Leith Walkway signs to stay on course. You’ll wind up on the thickly wooded Rocheid Path (named for the main donors of the Royal Botanic Garden) until you emerge again at a busy urban intersection called Canonmills. This is a good place to head up the road to enter the Royal Botanic Garden.

To Leith Through St. Mark’s Park: From here you could instead continue a couple more miles all the way into Leith. Along the way, you’ll pass through the beautiful St. Mark’s Park, with wide, grassy lawns. As you approach Leith, the trail carries on through a little greenbelt surrounded by urban blight—less romantic, but still apart from the bustle of the city. Finally, you reach the place where the river meets the industrial basins of Leith. It’s an easy 25-minute tram ride back to Princes Street or the West End.

Duddingston Village and Dr. Neil’s Garden

This low-key, 30-minute walk goes from the B&B neighborhood south of the center to Duddingston Village—a former village that got absorbed by Edinburgh but still retains its old, cobbled feel, local church, and great old-time pub, the recommended Sheep Heid Inn. Also, here is Dr. Neil’s Garden—a peaceful, free garden on a loch.

Walk behind the Commonwealth Pool along Holyrood Park Road. Before the roundabout, just after passing through the wall/gate, take the path to your right. This path runs alongside the Duddingston Low Road all the way to the village and garden. Ignore the road traffic and enjoy the views of Arthur’s Seat, the golf course, and eventually, Duddingston Loch. When you reach the cobbled road, you’re in Duddingston Village, with the church on your right and the Sheep Heid Inn a block down on your left. Another 100 feet down the main road is a gate labeled “The Manse” with the number 5—enter here for the garden.

Dr. Neil’s Garden (also known as the Secret Garden) was started by doctors Nancy and Andrew Neil, who traveled throughout Europe in the 1960s gathering trees and plants. They brought them back here, planted them on this land, and tended to them with the help of their patients. Today it offers a quiet, secluded break from the city, where you can walk among flowers and trees and over quaint bridges, get inspired by quotes written on chalkboards, or sit on a bench overlooking the loch (free, daily 10:00-17:00, charming café open Thu-Sun, +44 784 918 7995, www.drneilsgarden.co.uk).

▲Calton Hill

For an easy walk for fine views over all of Edinburgh and beyond, head up to Calton Hill—the monument-studded bluff that rises from the eastern end of the New Town. From the Waverley Station area, simply head east on Princes Street (which becomes Waterloo Place).

About five minutes after passing North Bridge, watch on the right for the gated entrance to the Old Calton Cemetery—worth a quick walk-through for its stirring monuments to great Scots. The can’t-miss-it round monument honors the philosopher David Hume; just next to that is a memorial topped by Abraham Lincoln, honoring Scottish-American troops who were killed in combat. The obelisk honors political martyrs.

The views from the cemetery are good, but for even better ones, head back out to the main road and continue a few more minutes on Waterloo Place. Across the street, steps lead up into Calton Hill. Explore the park, purchased by the city in 1724 and one of the first public parks in Britain. Informational plaques identify the key landmarks. At the summit of the hill is the giant, unfinished replica of the Parthenon, honoring those lost in the Napoleonic Wars. Donations to finish it never materialized, leaving it with the nickname “Edinburgh’s Disgrace.” Nearby, the old observatory holds an old telescope, and the back of the hillside boasts sweeping views over the Firth of Forth and Edinburgh’s sprawl. Back toward the Old Town, the tallest tower (shaped like a 19th-century admiral’s telescope) celebrates Admiral Horatio Nelson. There’s an interesting, free exhibit about Nelson at the base of the tower. While you can pay to climb it for the view, it doesn’t gain you much. The best views are around the smaller, circular Dugald Stewart Monument, with postcard panoramas overlooking the spires of the Old Town and the New Town.

LEISURE ACTIVITIES

Several enjoyable activities cluster near the B&B area around Dalkeith Road—see the “B&Bs and Restaurants South of the City Center” map, later, for the first two spots, and the “Greater Edinburgh” map on here for the third. For details and current rates, check their websites.

The Royal Commonwealth Pool is an indoor fitness and activity complex with a 50-meter pool, gym/fitness studio, and kids’ soft play zone (21 Dalkeith Road, +44 131 667 7211, www.edinburghleisure.co.uk).

The Prestonfield Golf Club, also an easy walk from the B&Bs, has golfers feeling like they’re in a country estate (book tee time online or by phone, dress code, 6 Priestfield Road North, +44 131 667 8597, www.prestonfieldgolf.co.uk).

At the Midlothian Snowsports Centre (a little south of town in Hillend; better for drivers), you can try skiing without any pesky snow. It feels like snow-skiing on a slushy day, even though you’re schussing over matting misted with water. Four tubing runs offer fun even for nonskiers generally Mon-Fri 9:30-21:00, Sat-Sun until 19:00, shorter hours off-season, Biggar Road, +44 131 445 4433, www.midlothian.gov.uk).

EDINBURGH’S FESTIVALS

Every summer, Edinburgh’s annual festivals turn the city into a carnival of the arts. The season begins in July with the Jazz and Blues Festival (www.edinburghjazzfestival.com) and continues into August with a riot of overlapping events known collectively as the Edinburgh Festival. There are enough music, dance, drama, film, and multicultural events to make even the most jaded traveler giddy with excitement. Every day is jammed with formal and spontaneous fun. Many city sights run on extended hours. It’s a glorious time to be in Edinburgh...if you have (and can afford) a room. If you’ll be in town in August, book your room and tickets for major events (especially the Tattoo) as far ahead as you can.

The official Edinburgh International Festival is the original. Major events sell out well in advance (ticket office at the Hub, in the former Tolbooth Church near the top of the Royal Mile, +44 131 473 2000, www.eif.co.uk). For planning purposes, the best overall website is EdinburghFestivalCity.com. Several publications—including the festival’s official schedule, the Edinburgh Festivals Guide Daily, The List, Fringe Program, and Daily Diary—list and evaluate festival events. The Scotsman newspaper reviews every show.

The less formal Fringe Festival, featuring edgy comedy and theater, is huge—with 2,000 shows—and has eclipsed the original festival in popularity (ticket/info office just below St. Giles’ Cathedral on the Royal Mile, 180 High Street, bookings +44 131 226 0000, www.edfringe.com). Tickets may be available at the door, and half-price tickets for some events are sold on the day of the show at the Half-Price Hut, located at The Mound, near the Scottish National Gallery.

The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo is a massing of bands, drums, and bagpipes, with groups from all over the former British Empire and beyond. Displaying military finesse with a stirring lone-piper finale, this grand spectacle fills the castle esplanade (nightly during Aug except Sun, performances Mon-Fri at 21:30, Sat at 18:15 and 21:30; standard tickets start at £35 and go up from there, booking starts the prior Oct, Fri-Sat shows sell out first, all seats generally sold out by early summer, some scattered same-day tickets may be available; box office open Mon-Fri 10:00-16:30, closed Sat-Sun; 1 Cockburn Street, behind Waverley Station, +44 131 225 1188, www.edintattoo.co.uk). Some performances are filmed by the BBC and later broadcast as a big national television special that is an annual ritual for the people of Britain.

The International Film Festival presents a hand-picked selection of innovative cinema, included full-length feature films, shorts, documentary, and experimental films (www.edfilmfest.org.uk).

Other summer festivals cover books (mid-late Aug, www.edbookfest.co.uk) and art (late July-Aug, www.edinburghartfestival.com). The Festival of Politics is held in the Scottish parliament building. It’s a busy weekend of discussions and lectures on environmentalism, globalization, terrorism, gender, and other issues (www.festivalofpolitics.scot).

Shopping in Edinburgh

Edinburgh is bursting with Scottish clichés for sale: kilts, shortbread, whisky...if they can slap a tartan on it, they’ll sell it. Your challenge is finding something a wee bit more authentic. If you want to be sure you are taking home local merchandise, check if the label reads: “Made in Scotland.” “Designed in Scotland” actually means “Made in China.” Shops are usually open around 10:00-18:00 (often later on Thu, shorter hours or closed on Sun). Tourist shops are open longer hours.

SHOPPING STREETS AND NEIGHBORHOODS

Near the Royal Mile: The Royal Mile is intensely touristy, mostly lined with interchangeable shops selling made-in-China souvenirs. In general, the area near Grassmarket, an easy stroll from the top of the Royal Mile, offers more originality. Victoria Street, which climbs steeply downhill from the Royal Mile (near Tolbooth Church/The Hub) to Grassmarket, has a fine concentration of local chain shops, including I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger and Walker Slater for designer tweed, plus a Harry Potter store, and more clothing and accessory shops. On Grassmarket, the Hawico shop sells top-quality cashmere milled in southern Scotland. Exiting Grassmarket opposite Victoria Street, Candlemaker Row is more artisan, with boutiques selling hats (from dapper men’s caps to outrageous fascinators), jewelry, art, design items, and even fossils. The street winds a couple of blocks up toward the National Museum; Greyfriars Bobby awaits you at the top of the street.

In the New Town: For mass-market shopping, you’ll find plenty of big chain stores along Princes Street—Marks & Spencer, H&M, Zara, Primark, a glitzy Apple Store, and so on. Parallel to Princes Street, George Street has a few higher-end chain stores (including some from London, such as Molton Brown). Just off St. Andrew Square is a branch of the posh London department store Harvey Nichols. And just beyond that is the high-end St. James Quarter shopping mall (look for the shiny gold spiral building).

For more local, artisan shopping, check out Thistle Street, lined with some fun eateries and some fun boutiques selling jewelry, shoes, and clothing.

WHAT TO SHOP FOR

Whisky

Whisky shops are a dime a dozen around the Royal Mile. But the places I’ve listed here distinguish themselves by their tradition and helpful staff. See the “Whisky and Gin Tasting” sidebar, earlier, for more guided tasting options. Before buying whisky, read all about Scotland’s favorite spirit on here.

Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop is not a tourist sight—don’t expect free samples or a hand-holding shopping experience. Founded in 1842, this firm prides itself on bottling good whisky straight from casks at the distilleries, without all the compromises that come with profitable mass production (coloring with sugar to fit the expected look, watering down to reduce the alcohol tax, and so on). Those drinking Cadenhead-bottled whiskies will enjoy the pure product. If you’re serious about buying, the staff can explain the sometimes-complex whisky board and talk you through flavor profiles (prices start around £11.50 for about 3.5 ounces; open Mon-Sat 10:30-17:30, closed Sun; 172 Canongate, +44 131 556 5864, www.cadenhead.scot).

Whiski Rooms Shop, just off the Royal Mile, comes with a knowledgeable, friendly staff that happily assists novices and experts alike to select the right bottle. Their adjacent bar usually has about 400 open bottles: Serious purchasers can get a sample. You can order a shareable flight in the bar, which comes with written information about each whisky you’re sampling (variety of options around £30-45, available anytime the bar is open). Or you can opt for a guided tasting (£30 for one-hour introductory tasting, £75 for 1.5-hour premium tasting, chocolate and cheese pairings also available, reserve ahead; shop open daily 10:00-19:00, Fri-Sat until 20:00, bar until 23:00; 4 North Bank Street, +44 131 225 1532, www.whiskirooms.co.uk).

Near the B&B Neighborhood: Perhaps the most accessible place to learn about local whiskies is conveniently located in the B&B area south of the city center. WoodWinters has a passion both for traditional spirits and for the latest innovations in Edinburgh’s booze scene. It’s well stocked with 300 whiskies and gins, as well as wines and local craft beers. Curious browsers can ask to sample a wee dram (Mon-Thu 10:00-19:00, Fri-Sat until 20:00, Sun 13:00-17:00, 91 Newington Road—for location, see the “B&Bs and Restaurants South of the City Center” map, +44 131 667 2760, https://woodwinters.com).

Kilts

Many of the kilt outfitters you’ll see along the Royal Mile are selling cheap knockoffs, made with printed rather than woven tartan material. If you want a serious kilt—or would enjoy window-shopping for one—try the place below. They have a few off-the-rack options, but to get a kilt in your specific tartan and size, they’ll probably take your measurements, custom-make it, and ship it to you. For a good-quality outfit (kilt, jacket, and accessories), plan on spending about £1,000.

Nicolson Kiltmakers has a respect for tradition and quality. Owner Gordon enlists and trains local craftspeople who specialize in traditionally manufactured kilts and accessories. He prides himself on keeping the old ways alive (in the face of deeply discounted “tartan tat”) and actively cultivates the next generation of kiltmakers (Mon-Sat 9:30-17:30, Sun 12:00-16:00, 189 Canongate, +44 131 558 2887, www.nicolsonkiltmakers.com). Their second branch, a couple of blocks up the Royal Mile at 19 St. Mary’s, has rental kilts and their workshop.

Tweed

Several places around town sell the famous Harris Tweed, the authentic stuff hand woven on the Isle of Harris in the far west of Scotland. Harris Tweed is a protected name, so if the label says “Harris,” you know it’s the real thing. Walker Slater is the place to go for top-quality tweed at top prices. They have two locations on Victoria Street, just below the Royal Mile near Grassmarket: menswear at #16 and womenswear at #46. You’ll find a rich interior and a wide variety of gorgeous jackets, scarves, bags, and more. This place feels elegant and exclusive (Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun from 11:00, www.walkerslater.com). Harris Tweed is also available at the Tartan Weaving Mill at the top of the Royal Mile (daily 9:00-18:30, 555 Castlehill, +44 131 220 2477).

Jewelry

Jewelry with Celtic designs, mostly made from sterling silver, is a popular and affordable souvenir. While you’ll see it sold around town, Celtic Design (156 Canongate) offers a quality and tasteful selection.

Nightlife in Edinburgh

Night Walks

A guided evening walk is a worthwhile way to spend an evening. Here are two options.

▲▲Literary Pub Tour

This two-hour walk is an interesting and worthwhile way to spend an evening. Think of it as a walking theatrical performance, where you follow the witty dialogue of two actors as they debate the great literature of Scotland. (You may ask yourself if this is high art or the creative re-creation of fun-loving louts fueled by a passion for whisky.) You’ll cover a lot of ground, wandering from Grassmarket over the Old Town and New Town, with stops in three to four pubs, as your guides share their takes on Scotland’s literary greats. The tour meets at the Beehive Inn on Grassmarket (£20—no cash, just show up or book online, drinks extra; June-July and Sept nightly at 19:30; April-May and Oct Thu-Sun; March and Nov-Dec Fri and Sun; Aug and Jan-Feb private tours only by request; 18 Grassmarket, +44 800 169 7410, www.edinburghliterarypubtour.co.uk).

▲Ghost Walks

A variety of companies lead spooky walks around town, providing an entertaining and affordable night out (offered nightly, most around 19:00 and 21:00, easy socializing for solo travelers). These two options are the most established.

Auld Reekie Tours offers a scary array of walks daily and nightly. Auld Reekie intertwines the grim and gory aspects of Scotland’s history with the paranormal, witch covens, and pagan temples. They take groups into the “haunted vaults” under the old bridges “where it was so dark, so crowded, and so squalid that the people there knew each other not by how they looked, but by how they sounded, felt, and smelt.” The guides are passionate, and the stories are genuinely spooky. Even if you don’t believe in ghosts, you’ll be entertained (£18-22, 1-1.5 hours, book online, all tours leave from the tourist information kiosk in front of the modern Bank of Scotland building on the Royal Mile, opposite Deacon Brodie’s Tavern at 300 Lawnmarket, +44 131 557 4700, www.auldreekietours.com).

Cadies & Witchery Tours are theatrical, with a balance of historical context and slapstick humor that’s fun for families. They offer two different 90-minute walks: an afternoon tour of Greyfriars Cemetery, with a bit more of a historical focus (£15, at 14:00, meet at the Cadies and Witchery Tours Shop at 84 West Bow—where Victoria Street bends down toward Grassmarket); and an evening Ghosts and Gore walk by a costumed guide—a bit goofier, with more jumps and scares (£13, at 19:00, leaves from outside the Witchery Restaurant at the top of Royal Mile near the Esplanade). Tours may not run every day—check schedule and make required reservations online (+44 131 225 6745, www.witcherytours.com).

Dance and Theater

Scottish Folk Dancing

You can watch traditional ceilidh dancing on some Fridays at Ghillie Dhu, a beautifully restored hall in the former St. Thomas Episcopal Church in the New Town (£45.95 includes 3-course dinner, see website or TI for schedule and to book, 2 Rutland Place, +44 131 222 9930, https://ghillie-dhu.co.uk).

If you’d like to try ceilidh dancing yourself, there are often opportunities around town—ask at the TI. You’ll get some instruction first, then be invited to take the floor!

The Spirit of Scotland Show, near the National Museum just south of the Royal Mile, includes a traditional dinner with all the edible clichés, followed by a full slate of swirling kilts, blaring bagpipes, storytelling, and Scottish folk dancing. As this is designed for tour groups, you’ll sit in a big music hall, served en masse before enjoying the stage show with an old-time emcee. For most travelers, it’s painfully cheesy (£85 for dinner and show, runs most nights in summer, fewer shows off-season, check details and book online or at TI; Royal College of Surgeons on Nicolson Street—see the “Edinburgh City Center Eateries” map, later, +44 131 618 9899, https://spiritofscotlandshow.com [URL inactive]).

Theater

Even outside of festival time, Edinburgh is a fine place for lively and affordable theater and live music. For a rundown of what’s on, see https://list.co.uk.

▲▲Live Music in Pubs

While traditional music venues have been eclipsed by beer-focused student bars, Edinburgh still has a few good pubs that can deliver a traditional folk-music fix. Unless otherwise noted, the following places are open daily and get going around 21:00 or 22:00 (sometimes a bit earlier); check their websites or drop by to ask for details. Many places that advertise “live music” offer only a solo singer/guitarist rather than a folk group. The monthly Gig Guide (free at TI, accommodations, and pubs; www.gigguide.co.uk) lists several places each night that have live music, divided by genre (pop, rock, world, and folk). For locations, see the “Edinburgh City Center Eateries” map, later.

Classic Music Pubs South of the Royal Mile:

For a musical pub crawl, do a loop of these three options, which are some of the most reliably good spots in town for traditional folk music.

Tight, stuffy Sandy Bell’s offers frequent live folk music—sometimes in the afternoon as well as most evenings. There’s no food, drinks are cheap, tables are small, and the vibe is local (near the National Museum of Scotland at 25 Forrest Road, +44 131 225 2751, https://sandybells.com).

Captain’s Bar, with a pleasantly salty nautical theme, is a crowded but cozy, music-focused pub with live sessions of folk and traditional music nightly (daily 14:00 until late, 4 South College Street, www.captainsedinburgh.com).

The Royal Oak, a characteristic, snug place for a dose of folk and blues, feels like a friend’s living room (daily midday until late, just off South Bridge opposite Chambers Road at 1 Infirmary Street, +44 131 557 2976, www.royal-oak-folk.com).

Grassmarket Neighborhood

This area below the castle bustles with live music and rowdy people spilling out of pubs and into what was (once upon a time) a busy market square. While it used to be a mecca for Scottish folk music, today it’s more youthful with a heavy-drinking, rowdy feel...not really for serious folk connoisseurs. Still, it can be fun to wander through this lively area late at night and check out the scene. Thanks to the music and crowds, you’ll know where to go...and where not to go.

The Fiddlers Arms has a charming Grassmarket pub energy with live folk, pop, or rock, depending on the night (Fri-Sat from 21:00, also Thu in July-Aug, at the far end of the square). Check out Biddy Mulligans or White Hart Inn (both on Grassmarket and both usually with a single Irish folk singer nightly). Finnegan’s Wake, on Victoria Street (which leads down to Grassmarket), is more of a down-and-dirty, classic rock bar with dancing. The Bow Bar, a couple doors away on Victoria Street, has no music but offers a hard-to-resist classic pub scene.

On the Royal Mile

The Scotsman’s Lounge, just a few steps off the Royal Mile down Cockburn Street, may be the most central spot to find good folk music. Despite its touristy location, the clientele feels local. It’s also a rare spot where you can often find afternoon sessions—starting at 17:00—rather than just later in the evening (73 Cockburn Street, +44 131 225 7726).

Nearby, two characteristic pubs steps apart on High Street (opposite the Radisson Blu Hotel) offer a fun setting, classic pub architecture and ambience, and live music (generally a single folk guitarist) for the cost of a beer: Whiski Bar (mostly trad and folk nightly, www.whiskibar.co.uk) and Mitre Bar (acoustic pop/rock with some trad; usually weekends only).

Just a block away (on South Bridge) is Whistle Binkies Live Music Bar. While they rarely do folk or Scottish trad, this is the most serious of the music pubs, with an actual stage and several acts nightly (schedule posted outside makes the genre clear; young crowd, fun energy, sticky floors, no cover, +44 131 557 5114, https://whistlebinkies.com).

Farther down the Royal Mile, No. 1 High Street is an accessible little pub with a love of folk and traditional music (1 High Street, +44 131 556 5758, https://no1highstreetedinburgh.co.uk). World’s End, across the street, also has music many nights (4 High Street, +44 131 556 3628).

South of the Center, Near the B&B Neighborhood

The pubs in the B&B area don’t typically have live music, but some are fun evening hangouts (for locations, see the “B&Bs and Restaurants South of the City Center” map, later).

Leslie’s Bar, sitting between a working-class and an upper-class neighborhood, has two sides. Originally, the gang (men) would go in on the right to gather around the great hardwood bar, glittering with a century of Cheers ambience. Meanwhile, the more delicate folk (women) would slip in on the left, with its discreet doors, plush snugs (cozy private booths), and ornate ordering windows. Since 1896, this Victorian classic has been appreciated for both its real ales and its huge selection of fine whiskies (listed on a lengthy menu). Dive into the whisky mosh pit on the right and let them show you how whisky can become “a very good friend” (daily from 12:00 until late, 49 Ratcliffe Terrace, +44 131 667 7205).

Other good pubs in this area include The Old Bell (uphill from Leslie’s, popular and cozy, with big TV screens) and The Salisbury Arms (bigger, more sprawling, feels upscale); both are described later, under “Eating in Edinburgh.”

Sleeping in Edinburgh

I’ve recommended accommodations in three areas: the city center, the West End, and a quieter neighborhood south of town.

To stay in the city center, you’ll select from large hotels and mostly impersonal guesthouses. The West End (just a few blocks from the New Town, spanning from Haymarket to Charlotte Square) offers a few comfortable hotels and guesthouses. These places provide a calm retreat in a central location.

For the classic B&B experience (friendly hosts and great cooked breakfasts), look south of town near Dalkeith Road, Mayfield Gardens, or Mayfield Road. From this area, it’s a long walk to the city center (about 30 minutes) but a quick bus or taxi/Uber ride.

Note that during the festivals in August, Edinburgh hotel and B&B prices skyrocket and most places do not accept bookings for one- or even two-night stays. If coming in August, book far in advance. Conventions, rugby matches, school holidays, and weekends can make finding a room tough at other times of year, too.

HOTELS IN THE CITY CENTER

These places are mostly characterless, but they’re close to the sightseeing action and Edinburgh’s excellent restaurant and pub scene. In each case, I’d skip the institutional breakfast and eat out. You’ll generally pay about £25 a day to park near these hotels.

$$$$ The Inn on the Mile is your trendy, super-central option, filling a renovated old bank building right in the heart of the Royal Mile (at North Bridge/South Bridge). The nine bright and stylish rooms are an afterthought to the busy upmarket pub, which is where you’ll check in. If you don’t mind some noise (from the pub and the busy street) and climbing lots of stairs, it’s a handy home base (breakfast extra, air-con, 82 High Street, +44 131 556 9940, www.theinnonthemile.co.uk, info@theinnonthemile.co.uk).

$$$$ Grassmarket Hotel’s 42 rooms are quirky and fun, from the Dandy comic-book wallpaper to the giant wall map of Edinburgh equipped with planning-your-visit magnets. The hotel is in a great location right on Grassmarket overlooking the Covenanters Memorial and above Biddy Mulligans Bar (family rooms, elevator serves half the rooms, 94 Grassmarket, +44 131 220 2299, https://grassmarkethotel.co.uk).

$$$ The Place Hotel has a fine New Town location 10 minutes north of the train station. This impersonal choice occupies three grand Georgian townhouses, with no elevator and long flights of stairs leading up to the 48 contemporary, no-frills rooms. Their outdoor terrace with retractable roof and heaters is a popular place to unwind (save money with a smaller city double, 34 York Place, +44 131 556 7575, www.placehotels.co.uk, frontdesk@yorkplace-edinburgh.co.uk).

$$$ Ten Hill Place Hotel is a 10-minute walk from the Royal Mile, down a quiet courtyard. It’s owned by the 500-year-old Royal College of Surgeons, and profits go toward the college’s charitable goals. Its 129 rooms are classy, and some have views of the Salisbury Crags (breakfast extra, family rooms, elevator, 10 Hill Place, +44 333 003 5242, www.tenhillplace.com, reservations@tenhillplace.com).

$$ Motel One Edinburgh Royal, part of a stylish German budget-hotel chain, is between the train station and the Royal Mile; its 208 rooms feel upscale and trendy for its price range (pay more for a park view or less for a windowless “basic” room with skylight, breakfast extra, elevator, 18 Market Street, +44 131 220 0730, www.motel-one.com, edinburgh-royal@motel-one.com).

$$ Motel One Edinburgh Princes is a good deal for its location, with 140 rooms, some with nice views of Waverley Station and the Old Town. The rooms are cookie cutter, but the sprawling ballroom-like lounge offers great views (breakfast extra, family rooms, reception on first floor, elevator, 10 Princes Street, enter around the corner on West Register Street, +44 131 550 9220, www.motel-one.com, edinburgh-princes@motel-one.com).

Chain Hotels in the Center: Besides my recommendations above, you’ll find a number of chain hotels close to the Royal Mile, including Leonardo Royal Hotel (43 Jeffrey Street); Adagio Aparthotel (tempting location along the sleepier lower stretch of the Royal Mile at 231 Canongate); Ibis Hotel (three convenient branches: near the Tron Church, along the busy South Bridge, and on St. Andrew Square in the New Town); Holiday Inn Express (two locations: just off the Royal Mile at 300 Cowgate and one on Picardy Place in the New Town), and Travelodge Central (just below the Royal Mile at 33 St. Mary’s Street; additional locations in the New Town).

HOSTELS

¢ Baxter Hostel is an appealing boutique hostel. Occupying one floor of a Georgian townhouse (up several long, winding flights of stairs and below two more hostels), it has tons of ambience: tartan wallpaper, wood paneling, stone walls, decorative tile floors, and a beautifully restored kitchen/lounge that you’d want in your own house. Space is tight—hallways are snug, and five dorms share one bathroom. Another room, with four beds, has its own en-suite bathroom (includes scrambled-egg breakfast; small fee for towel, travel adapters, and locks; 5 West Register Street, +44 131 503 1001, www.thebaxterhostel.com, thehost@thebaxterhostel.com).

¢ Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel rents 65 rooms accommodating three to six people (all with private bathrooms and lockers). Guests can eat cheaply in the cafeteria or cook for the cost of groceries in the members’ kitchen (private rooms available, pay laundry, 15-minute downhill walk from Waverley Station—head down Leith Walk, pass through two roundabouts, hostel is on your left—or take bus #22 to Annadale Street, #25 to Leopold Place, or tram to McDonald Road, 9 Haddington Place off Leith Walk, +44 131 524 2090, www.hostellingscotland.org.uk, central@hostellingscotland.org.uk).

¢ A&O Edinburgh City, part of a German chain, is just off the Royal Mile and rents 272 bunks; private and family rooms are also available. Bar 50 in the basement has an inviting lounge. Half of the rooms function as a university dorm during the school year, becoming available just in time for the tourists (breakfast extra, kitchen, laundry, free daily walking tour, 50 Blackfriars Street, +44 131 524 1989, www.aohostels.com).

¢ Cheap and Scruffy Bohemian Hostels in the Center: These three sister hostels—popular crash pads for young, hip backpackers—are beautifully located in the noisy center (some locations also have private rooms, www.macbackpackers.com): High Street Hostel (8 Blackfriars Street, just off High Street/Royal Mile, +44 131 557 3984); Royal Mile Backpackers (105 High Street, +44 131 557 6120); and Castle Rock Hostel (just below the castle and above the pubs, 15 Johnston Terrace, +44 131 225 9666).

THE WEST END

The area just west of the New Town and Charlotte Square is a quiet, classy, residential area of stately Georgian buildings, and my recommendations here offer character and hospitality. Though these places aren’t as intimate as my recommended B&Bs south of town, the West End is convenient to most sightseeing. It’s an easy 10- to 15-minute walk to bustling Princes Street. (For a quicker approach to the Royal Mile—without the steep hike—you can curl around the back of the castle on King’s Stables Road to reach Grassmarket in about 10 minutes, then huff up scenic Victoria Street.)

To get here from the train station, take the Airlink #100 from South St. David Street to Shandwick Place, or take the train to Haymarket Station (depending on your hotel—confirm in advance). Coming from Princes Street or the airport, take the tram to the West End stop.

$$$$ B+B Edinburgh is a classic, upscale boutique hotel with 27 comfortable rooms; the ones in back have grand views over Dean Village and the outskirts of Edinburgh. The public spaces (including a museum-like library) are stately and impressive, and it’s situated on quiet Rothesay Terrace, where you’ll feel like a diplomat retreating to your private suite (family rooms, elevator, 3 Rothesay Terrace, +44 131 225 5084, www.bb-edinburgh.com, info@bb-edinburgh.com).

$$$$ Angels Share Hotel is a cheerful, well-run, inviting place with a proud Scottish heritage. Each of its tidy, stylish 31 rooms is named after a contemporary Scottish figure (his or her portrait hangs above your bed). The attached bar serves a great breakfast and has live music on weekends (elevator, 11 Hope Street, +44 131 247 7006, https://angelssharehotel.com, reception@angelssharehotel.com).

$$ 22 Chester Street offers a mix of Georgian charm and Ikea comfort, renting five smartly appointed rooms near St. Mary’s Cathedral. The lounge is an elegant and cozy place to unwind. Two rooms have private bathrooms down the hall, and a couple of rooms are below street level but get plenty of light (book by email for RS%, family rooms, no breakfast but lounge has stocked fridge and microwave, pay street parking only, pay laundry, 22 Chester Street, +44 7872 944 710, lukasz801@hotmail.com, owner Mary and manager Lukasz).

B&Bs SOUTH OF THE CITY CENTER

A B&B generally provides more warmth and lower prices. At these places south of the center, character is provided by the personality quirks of the hosts and sometimes the decor. In general, cash is preferred and can lead to discounted rates.

Numerous buses run to this area from the Princes Street stops near Waverley Station (see “Arrival in Edinburgh,” earlier) and from the South Bridge stop just off the Royal Mile (15-20 minutes). Confirm your bus number and stop with your B&B. Taxi or Uber fare between the city center and these B&Bs is about £8-10.

Near the B&Bs, you’ll find plenty of fine eateries and some good, classic pubs. A few places have their own private parking; others offer access to easy, free street parking (ask when booking). The nearest launderette is Ace Cleaning Centre (see “Helpful Hints” at the beginning of this chapter).

Near Dalkeith Road

Most of my B&Bs near Dalkeith Road are located south of the Royal Commonwealth Pool.

$$$ Hotel Ceilidh-Donia is bigger (17 rooms) and more hotel-like than other nearby B&Bs, with a bar and a small reception area, but managers Kevin and Susan and their staff provide guesthouse warmth. The back deck is a pleasant place to relax on a warm day. The name—a pun on “ceilidh” and “Caledonia”—is pronounced “kayley-donya” (family room, 2-night minimum on peak-season weekends, 14 Marchhall Crescent, +44 131 667 2743, www.hotelceilidh-donia.co.uk, reservations@hotelceilidh-donia.co.uk).

$$ Gifford House, on busy Dalkeith Road, is a bright, flowery retreat with six peaceful, colorful rooms (some with ornate cornices and views of Arthur’s Seat) and compact, modern bathrooms (RS% with cash, family rooms, street parking, 103 Dalkeith Road, +44 131 667 4688, www.edinburghbedbreakfast.co.uk, giffordhouse@btinternet.com; Margaret, David, and Melanie).

$$ Ard-Na-Said B&B, in an elegant 1875 Victorian house, has seven bright, spacious rooms with modern bathrooms, including one ground-floor room with a pleasant patio and two with Ard-Na-Said (Arthur’s Seat) views (no breakfast, 2-night minimum preferred in summer, off-street parking, 5 Priestfield Road, +44 131 283 6524, www.ardnasaid.co.uk, info@ardnasaid.co.uk, Audrey Ballantine and son Steven).

$$ AmarAgua Guest House is an inviting Victorian home away from home, with six welcoming rooms—a couple with four-poster beds—and eager hosts (one double with private bath down the hall, 2-night minimum, no kids under 12, street parking, electric-car charger, 10 Kilmaurs Terrace, +44 131 667 6775, www.amaragua.co.uk, reservations@amaragua.co.uk, Lucia and Kuan).

$ Airdenair Guest House is a hands-off, bare-bones guesthouse, with no formal host greeting (you’ll get an access code to let yourself in) and a self-serve breakfast buffet. But the price is right, and the seven simple rooms—some with older bathrooms—do the trick (29 Kilmaurs Road, +44 781 731 3035, https://airdenair.co.uk, contact@airdenair.co.uk, Duncan).

On or near Mayfield Gardens

These higher-end places are just a couple of blocks from the Dalkeith Road options, along the busy Newington Road (which turns into Mayfield Gardens). All have private parking.

$$$ At 23 Mayfield Guest House, Ross and Kathleen (with their wee helpers Ethan and Alfie) rent seven splurge-worthy, thoughtfully appointed rooms complete with high-tech bathrooms (rain showers and motion-sensor light-up mirrors). Little extras—such as fresh herb-infused water and gourmet breakfasts with homegrown produce, an inviting guest lounge outfitted with leather-bound Arthur Conan Doyle books, an “honesty bar,” and classic black-and-white movie screenings—make you feel like royalty (RS% with cash, family room, 2-night minimum preferred in summer, 23 Mayfield Gardens, +44 131 667 5806, www.23mayfield.co.uk, info@23mayfield.co.uk).

$$$ Barony House is run with infectious enthusiasm by Aussies Paul and Susan. Susan has decorated the place with incredible care, adding handmade flourishes that revive the house’s historical character while injecting it with fun and style—and she also cooks a wonderful variety of breakfasts. They have six elegant doubles, including two in the “garden” level next door, in a former servants’ quarters—now a peaceful retreat with access to a shared kitchen (3-night minimum preferred in summer, no kids under 9, 20 Mayfield Gardens, +44 131 662 9938, https://baronyhouse.co.uk, booknow@baronyhouse.co.uk).

$$$ Glenalmond House, run by Jimmy and Fiona Mackie, has nine smart rooms, two with garden patios (RS% with cash, discounts for longer stays, family room, no kids under 5, 25 Mayfield Gardens, +44 131 668 2392, www.glenalmondhouse.com, enquiries@glenalmondhouse.com).

$$ Kingsway Guest House, with seven bright and stylish rooms, is owned by conscientious, delightful Gary and Lizzie, who have thought of all the little touches and offer good advice on neighborhood eats (RS% with cash, family rooms, one room with private bath down the hall, off-street parking, 5 East Mayfield, +44 131 667 5029, https://edinburgh-guesthouse.com, info@kingswayguesthouse.com).

$$ Sonas Guest House has nine simple, cheerful, and homey rooms, five of which have bathtubs (no breakfast—but many options nearby, no children under 12, 3 East Mayfield, +44 7828 903 361, www.sonasguesthouse.com, info@sonasguesthouse.com, Irene and Dennis).

On Mayfield Road

These accommodations are just one block over from Mayfield Gardens.

$$$ Highfield Guest House feels a bit more refined, with five rooms, crisp decor, and white tablecloths in the dining room—where you are welcome to enjoy takeout (no breakfast, one single has a private shower room, street parking, 83 Mayfield Road, +44 131 667 8717, www.highfieldgh.co.uk, info@highfieldgh.co.uk; Maggie, Gordon, and Kate).

$$ Lauderville Guest House, run by upbeat Simon, has seven rooms with modern flourishes and a lovely garden in back (2- or 3-night minimum in peak times, private parking, 52 Mayfield Road, +44 7887 648 111, www.laudervilleguesthouse.com, res@laudervilleguesthouse.co.uk).

Eating in Edinburgh

Edinburgh is thriving with dining options. Tourists and chain restaurants clog the famous stretches, but if you walk just a few blocks away from the tacky strips, you’ll find a different world. Things are very competitive, and even high-end places offer specials for lunch and sometimes early dinner. Reservations are essential in August and on weekends, and a good idea anytime for fine dining.

Here are some favorites of mine, designed to fill the tank economically at lunchtime or give you a great experience for dinner. With the ease and economy of Uber and the bus system, don’t be too tied to your hotel or B&B neighborhood for dinner.

THE OLD TOWN

Just off the Royal Mile on George IV Bridge

$$$ Le Bistrot is a delightful café hiding just steps off the Royal Mile in the same building as the French consulate (as if put here to promote a love of French culture). Its glowy ambience, authentic French menu, and great prices make this a welcoming spot to have dinner before an evening stroll down the Royal Mile—when all the crowds have gone to the pubs. Try their soup or fish of the day (daily, affordable fixed-price lunch, 59 George IV Bridge, +44 131 225 4021, https://lebistrot.co.uk).

$$$$ Ondine Seafood Restaurant is a dressy, top-end restaurant with a smart clientele and a quality, sophisticated vibe; it’s has some of the best seafood in town. It’s a block off the Royal Mile, upstairs in a modern building with a sleek dining room that overlooks the busy road but feels a world apart. If you’re looking for deals, an oyster happy hour runs Tue-Fri from 17:30-18:30 (closed Sun-Mon, 2 George IV Bridge, +44 131 226 1888, www.ondinerestaurant.co.uk).

$$$ The Outsider is a proudly independent bistro with a noisy, energetic vibe filling its sleek, sprawling dining room. The good-value menu features fresh, modern Scottish cuisine with daily specials “until sold out” scribbled on it. Ask for a window table at the back for views of the castle floating above the rooftops (daily, long list of lunches under £10 available until 17:00, reservations smart, 15 George IV Bridge, +44 131 226 3131, www.theoutsiderrestaurant.com, Eddie and partners).

Along the Royal Mile, Downhill from St. Giles’ Cathedral

Though the eateries along this most-crowded stretch of the city are invariably touristy, the scene is fun. Sprinkled among this list are some places offering better values and maybe fewer tourists.

$$$ Devil’s Advocate is a popular gastropub that hides down the narrow lane called Advocates Close, directly across the Royal Mile from St. Giles. It’s a mix of old and new Edinburgh, with an old cellar setting—exposed stone and heavy beams—done up in modern style. Creative whisky cocktails kick off a menu that dares to be adventurous, but with a respect for Scottish tradition (daily, 9 Advocates Close, +44 131 225 4465, https://devilsadvocateedinburgh.co.uk).

$$$$ Wedgwood Restaurant is romantic, contemporary, chic, and gourmet without pretense. Paul Wedgwood cooks while his wife Lisa serves with appetizing charm. The cuisine: creative, modern Scottish with an international twist. They’re known for their scallops and roe deer; consider their “Wee Tour of Scotland” tasting menu for £80. Don’t come here to eat and run—your meal will be the event of the evening. I like the ground level with the Royal Mile view and the busy kitchen ambience better than their basement seating (closed Mon-Tue, lunch specials, fine wine by the glass, reservations smart, 267 Canongate on Royal Mile, +44 131 558 8737, www.wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk).

$$ David Bann Vegetarian Restaurant is a worthwhile stop for vegetarians in need of a break from traditional veggie grub. This place—with its candles and cocktail bar—doesn’t have even a hint of hippie. It’s upscale, sleek, minimalist, and stylish (gorgeously presented dishes), serious about quality, and organic. There’s an enthusiastic local following—and decadent desserts (daily, vegan and gluten-free options, a long block off the Royal Mile at 56 St. Mary’s Street, +44 131 556 5888, www.davidbann.co.uk).

Quick, Easy, and Cheap Breakfast and Lunch Options

$$ Edinburgh Larder promises “a taste of the country” in the center of the city. With a boho/granola aesthetic, they focus on high-quality, homestyle breakfasts and lunches made from seasonal, local ingredients. The café, with table service, is a convivial space with rustic tables filled by local families. Their “Little Larder” sister outlet next door offers a shorter but similar menu (Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00, Sat-Sun from 9:00, 15 Blackfriars Street, +44 131 556 6922).

$ Mimi’s Little Bakehouse, a handy Royal Mile outpost of a prizewinning bakery, serves up baked goods—try the scones—as well as soups, wraps, and sandwiches in their cute and modern shop (Mon-Thu 9:00-17:00, Fri-Sun until 18:00, 250 Canongate, +44 131 556 6632).

$ Clarinda’s Tea Room, near the bottom of the Royal Mile, is a charming time warp—a fine and tasty place to relax after touring the Mile or the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Stop in for a quiche, salad, or soup lunch. It’s also great for sandwiches and tea and cake anytime (no reservations, Mon-Sat 9:00-16:30, Sun from 9:30), 69 Canongate, +44 131 557 1888).

$ Oink is handy for a cheap sandwich to go near the top (34 Victoria Street) or bottom (82 Canongate) of the Royal Mile. They carve from a freshly roasted pig each afternoon for sandwiches that come in “piglet,” “oink,” or “grunter” sizes (that’s small, medium, large). Watch the pig shrink in the front window throughout the day (daily until 17:00 or whenever they run out of meat, +44 777 196 8233). There’s also a location in the New Town, at 38 Hanover Street.

$ I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger, tucked down Victoria Street just off the top of the Royal Mile, stocks a wide variety of Scottish, English, and international cheeses. They’re as knowledgeable about cheese as they are generous with samples. This is a great spot to pick up some high-quality cheese for a snack or picnic (daily until 18:00 or 19:30, 30A Victoria Street, +44 131 226 6215).

$ The Haggis Box—a food counter inside the lobby of the Scottish Storytelling Center—is the place for adventurous eaters who want to sample haggis. You can get haggis plus neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes)—including a vegan version—for under £10, with interesting sauces; they also have soup of the day and quiche (daily until 17:00, 43 High Street, +44 780 221 6987).

Historic Pubs for Grub Along the Mile

To grab some forgettable pub grub in historic surroundings, consider one of these landmark pubs. All offer basic meals for around £10-15 (cheaper lunch deals) and serve food daily from about 12:00 to 21:00. Deacon Brodie’s is the most touristy and famous. The others have better ambience and feature music at night.

$$ Deacon Brodie’s Tavern, at a dead-center location on the Royal Mile, has a sloppy pub on the ground floor with a sloppy restaurant upstairs (435 Lawnmarket).

$$ The Mitre Bar has a classic interior, and their menu includes good meat pies (131 High Street). The nearby $$ Whiski Bar is also a good option.

$$ The World’s End Pub, farther down the Mile at Canongate, is a colorful old place dishing up hearty meals from a creative menu in a fun, dark, and noisy space (4 High Street).

Near the National Museum

These restaurants (all within about 100 yards of each other) are happily removed from the Royal Mile melee and skew to a youthful clientele with few tourists. After passing the Greyfriars Bobby statue and the National Museum, fork right onto Forrest Road.

$ Union of Genius is a creative soup kitchen with a strong identity. They cook up a selection of delicious soups with fun twists each morning at their main location in Leith, then deliver them to this shop by bicycle (for environmental reasons). Good salads and fresh-baked breads supplement the soups. The “flight” comes with three small cups of soup and three types of bread. Line up at the counter, then either take your soup to go or sit in the cramped interior—just a couple of tables and counter seating (Mon-Sat until 16:00, closed Sun, 8 Forrest Road, +44 131 226 4436).

$$ Mums, a kitschy Scottish diner, serves up comfort food just like mum used to make. The extensive menu offers huge portions of heavy, greasy Scottish/British standards—bangers (sausages), meat pies, burgers, and artery-clogging breakfasts (the latter served until 12:00)—plus vegetarian options. There’s often a line out the door on weekends (daily, 4 Forrest Road, +44 131 260 9806).

$$ Ting Thai Caravan is a loud, industrial-mod eatery serving adventurous Thai street food (soups, noodles, and curries). It’s a young, stark, and simple place with thumping music, communal tables, and great food (daily, 8 Teviot Place, +44 131 225 9801). There are other locations around Edinburgh, too.

Other places worth considering here include a branch of the local taqueria chain $$ El Cartel and pizzeria $ Civerinos Slice.

THE NEW TOWN

In the Georgian part of town, you’ll find a bustling world of office workers, students, and pensioners doing their thing. These eateries are all within a 10-minute walk of Waverley Station.

Favorites on or near St. Andrew Square

In addition to the options listed below, St. Andrew Square is home to several Edinburgh branches of trendy London restaurants, including Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen, Wagamama (Asian noodles), and Wahaca (Mexican).

$$$ The Magnum Restaurant and Bar is a relaxed, classy pub-gone-bistro serving beautifully presented Scottish dishes with smart service and no pretense. The appetizing menu is creative and inviting. A block beyond the tourist zone, it feels like a neighborhood favorite (daily, lunch specials, 1 Albany Street, +44 131 557 4366).

$$$ Dishoom is a sprawling, high-energy, Bombay Café phenom. The menu makes Indian food joyfully accessible. You’ll enjoy upscale South Asian cuisine in a bustling, dark, 1920s dining room on the second floor overlooking St. Andrew Square; there are also a few outdoor tables (I’d avoid the basement). It’s a popular spot but no reservations are taken after 17:45, so arrive early or plan to wait (long hours daily, 3A St. Andrew Square, +44 131 202 6406).

$$$ Café Royal is the perfect fin de siècle setting for a coffee, beer, or light meal. Drop in, if only to admire the 1880 tiles featuring famous inventors. The menu is both traditional and modern, with vegetarian dishes and lots of oysters (daily, 19 West Register Street, +44 131 556 1884, no reservations). The attached small $$$$ restaurant specializes in oysters, fish, and game. While dressier, stuffier, and more expensive, it is good.

$$$$ The Dome Restaurant, filling what was a fancy bank, serves modern international cuisine around a classy bar and under an elegant 19th-century skylight dome. Soft jazz and a chic, white-tablecloth ambience makes for an opulent atmosphere (daily, lunch deals, early-bird special until 18:30, reserve for dinner or stop in for a drink under the dome, 14 George Street, +44 131 624 8624, www.thedomeedinburgh.com).

$ St. Andrew’s and St. George’s Church Undercroft Café, in the basement of a fine old church, is the cheapest place in town for soup, sandwiches, quiche, or scones for lunch. Your tiny bill helps support the Church of Scotland (Mon-Fri until 14:00, closed Sat-Sun, just off St. Andrew Square at 13 George Street, +44 131 225 3847). It’s run by sweet volunteers who love to chat.

$ Oink—the pig roastery described earlier along the Royal Mile—also has a location in the heart of the New Town (daily until 17:00 or until sold out, 38 Hanover Street).

Supermarkets: Ideal for picnic fare, Marks & Spencer Food Hall offers an assortment of tasty hot foods, prepared sandwiches, fresh bakery items, and a wide selection of wines and beverages. It’s just a block from the Scott Monument and the Princes Street Gardens (daily, Princes Street 54—separate stairway next to main M&S entrance leads directly to food hall, +44 131 225 2301). Sainsbury’s supermarket, a block off Princes Street, offers grab-and-go items (long hours daily, on corner of Rose Street on St. Andrew Square).

Hip Eateries on and near Thistle Street

Peaceful little Thistle Street has a cluster of enticing eateries.

$$$ Le Café St. Honoré, tucked away like a secret bit of old Paris, is a charming place with friendly service and walls lined with wine bottles. It serves French-Scottish cuisine in tight, Old World, cut-glass elegance to a dressy crowd (closed Tue-Wed, two- and three-course lunch and dinner specials, reservations smart—ask to sit upstairs rather than in the basement, 34 Northwest Thistle Street Lane, +44 131 226 2211, www.cafesthonore.com).

$$$ The Bon Vivant is woody, youthful, and candlelit, with a rotating menu of French/Scottish dishes, lots of champagne and wines by the glass, and a companion wine shop next door. They have fun tapas plates and heartier dishes, served either in the bar up front or in the restaurant in back (daily, Mon-Thu dinner only, reservations smart, 55 Thistle Street, +44 131 225 3275, https://bonvivantedinburgh.co.uk).

$$$ Fishers in the City, a good place to dine on seafood, has an inviting menu and lots of nice wines by the glass. The energy is lively, the clientele is smart, and the room is bright and airy with a simple elegance (daily, book ahead, 58 Thistle Street, +44 131 225 5109, www.fishersrestaurants.co.uk).

THE WEST END

In this posh neighborhood of high-end eateries, the following places have character, tasty food, and fair prices. For locations, see the “West End Hotels and Restaurants” map.

$$$ La P’tite Folie Restaurant occupies a quirky, half-timbered Tudor house that once housed a Polish Catholic church. Its sophisticated, local clientele goes for flavorful specialties like steak and duck—all with a French flair (closed Sun-Mon, good-value two-course lunch, reservations smart, 9 Randolph Place, +44 131 225 8678, www.laptitefolie.co.uk). Under the same roof, $$ Le Di-Vin Wine Bar is in the nave of the church, with an extensive wine list and nice cheese-and-meat boards (closed Sun, +44 131 538 1815).

$$$ BABA—technically in the New Town (facing Charlotte Square) but close to the West End—is a wonderful spot for charcoal-grilled, Lebanese-style small plates in a hip and trendy, ramshackle-chic atmosphere. As it’s as popular as it is delicious, it’s smart to book ahead (daily, in the Kimpton Hotel at 130 George Street, +44 131 527 4999, www.baba.restaurant).

$$ La Piazza stands out among several Italian restaurants in this neighborhood. It’s a welcoming place with solid pasta dishes, pizzas, and an Italian villa vibe. Pleasant terrace tables are out back (Mon-Fri lunch and dinner, Sat dinner only, closed Sun, 97 Shandwick Place, +44 131 221 1150).

$$ Teutchers is a friendly joint on cute William Street, with a fun vibe and nice tables in a rustic space. The food is a cut above typical pub grub (daily, 26 William Street, +44 131 225 2973).

Supermarket: There’s a handy Sainsbury’s near my recommended West End accommodations (long hours daily, 32 Shandwick Place). A Marks & Spencer is at the Haymarket train station (open daily).

IN THE B&B NEIGHBORHOOD, TO THE SOUTH

These places are within a 10-minute walk of my recommended B&Bs. For locations, see the “B&Bs and Restaurants South of the City Center” map, earlier. For a cozy drink after dinner, visit the recommended pubs in the area (see “Nightlife in Edinburgh,” earlier). Except for the “memorable meals” places at the end of this section, I wouldn’t eat here unless you’re staying nearby.

Pub Grub

$$ The Salisbury Arms is a gastropub serving upscale, traditional classics with flair. While they have a bar area and a garden terrace, I’d dine in their elegant restaurant section. The menu ranges from burgers and salads to more sophisticated dishes (daily, book ahead for restaurant, no reservations taken for pub, across from the pool at 58 Dalkeith Road, +44 131 667 4518, www.thesalisburyarmsedinburgh.co.uk).

$$ The Old Bell Inn, with an old-time sports-bar ambience—fishing, golf, horses, lots of TVs—serves an extensive menu of pub meals with daily specials. This is a classic “snug pub”—all dark woods and brass beer taps, littered with evocative knickknacks (daily, bar tables can be reserved, 233 Causewayside, +44 131 668 1573, www.oldbelledinburgh.co.uk).

Eateries Around Newington Road

$$ Southpour is a nice place for a local beer, craft cocktail, or reliable meal from a menu of salads, sandwiches, meat dishes, and other comfort foods. The brick walls, wood beams, and giant windows give it a warm and open vibe (daily, 1 Newington Road, +44 131 650 1100).

$$ Voujon Restaurant serves a fusion menu of Bengali and Indian cuisines. Vegetarians appreciate the expansive yet inexpensive offerings (daily for dinner only, 107 Newington Road, +44 131 667 5046).

$$$ Haldi, near my recommended B&Bs on Mayfield Gardens, takes a fresh, gourmet approach to Indian cuisine for less-than-gourmet prices. A few traditional favorites appear alongside mainly new inspirations, all with a seasonal, local focus and a simply beautiful presentation (meat or veggie tasting menu available, reservations smart for tasting menu or dinner at peak times, Wed-Mon dinner only, closed Tue, 38 Mayfield Gardens, +44 131 241 8938, https://haldiedinburgh.co.uk).

Groceries: On the main streets near the restaurants you’ll find Sainsbury’s Local and Co-op (on South Clerk Street), and Tesco Express and another Sainsbury’s Local one block over on Causewayside (all open until at least 22:00).

Memorable Meals Farther Out

$$$$ Rhubarb Restaurant specializes in Old World elegance. It’s in Prestonfield House—an over-the-top riot of antiques, velvet, tassels, and fringe. The plush dark-rhubarb decor reminds visitors that this was the first place where rhubarb was propagated in Scotland (18th century). It’s a short taxi ride past the other recommended eateries behind Arthur’s Seat, in a huge estate with big, shaggy Highland cattle enjoying their salads al fresco. At night, it’s a candlelit wonder. Most spend a ton here. Reserve in advance and dress up if you can (daily, afternoon tea served 12:00-19:00, Priestfield Road, +44 131 662 2303, www.prestonfield.com.

$$ The Sheep Heid Inn, Edinburgh’s oldest and most inviting public house, is equally notable for its history, date-night appeal, and elevated gastropub-type food (with the same owners, and a similar menu, as The Salisbury Arms, above). It’s a short cab ride or pleasant 30-minute walk from the B&B neighborhood, but it’s worth the effort to dine in this dreamy setting in the presence of past queens and kings—choose between the bar downstairs, dining room upstairs, or outside in the classic garden courtyard. Ask to see—or try—the original skittle alley (a type of bowling game), in a back room. Book ahead before you make the trip (daily, 43 The Causeway, +44 131 661 7974, www.thesheepheidedinburgh.co.uk).

Edinburgh Connections

BY TRAIN OR BUS

From Edinburgh by Train to: Glasgow (7/hour, 50 minutes), St. Andrews (train from Haymarket to Leuchars, 2/hour, 1 hour, then 10-minute bus into St. Andrews), Stirling (2-3/hour, 45 minutes), Pitlochry (6/day direct, 2 hours, more with transfer), Inverness (6/day direct, 3.5 hours, more with transfer), Oban (roughly 6/day, 4.5 hours, change in Glasgow), York (3/hour, 2.5 hours), London (3/hour, 4.5 hours), Durham (2/hour direct, 2 hours, less frequent in winter), Newcastle (3/hour, 1.5 hours), Keswick/Lake District (8/day to Penrith—more via Carlisle, 1.5 hours, then 40-minute bus ride to Keswick), Birmingham (hourly, 5 hours, more with transfer), Crewe (every 2 hours, 3 hours), Bristol, near Bath (hourly, 6.5 hours), Blackpool (about every 2 hours, 3.5 hours, transfer in Preston). Train info: +44 345 748 4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk.

By Citylink Bus: Direct buses go to Glasgow (#900, 4/hour, 1.5 hours), Inverness (#M90, 8/day, 4 hours), Pitlochry (#M90, 8/day, 2.5 hours), and Stirling (every 2 hours on #909, 1.5 hours). Bus #913 runs just once each morning to Glencoe (4 hours) and Fort William (4.5 hours); with a transfer, you can use this bus to reach Oban (4.5 hours, change in Tyndrum) and Portree on the Isle of Skye (8 hours, change in Fort William). Otherwise, you can reach Oban, Glencoe, Fort William, and Portree by taking a train to Glasgow, then catching a bus from there. For details, see “Getting Around the Highlands” on here. For bus info, stop by the station or visit www.citylink.co.uk); note that Megabus, which shares a parent company, also sells tickets for Citylink buses (www.megabus.com).

Additional long-distance routes may be operated by National Express (www.nationalexpress.com).

BY PLANE

Edinburgh Airport is located eight miles northwest of the center (code: EDI, www.edinburghairport.com). A taxi or Uber between the airport and city center costs about £30 (25 minutes to downtown, West End, or Dalkeith Road).

The airport is also well connected to central Edinburgh by tram and bus. Both are to the far left as you exit the terminal building: Look for bus stop A; the tram tracks are across the street. Trams make several stops in town, including at the West End, along Princes Street, and at St. Andrew Square, then continue to Leith (£7.50, £9.50 round-trip, buy ticket from machine or on website for slight discount, runs every 5-10 minutes from early morning until about 23:00, 35 minutes, www.edinburghtrams.com). The Lothian Airlink bus #100 drops you in the West End or near Waverley Station (£5.50, £8 round-trip, runs every 10 minutes, 30 minutes, +44 131 555 6363, www.lothianbuses.com).

ROUTE TIPS FOR DRIVERS HEADING SOUTH

If you’re linking by car to England, note that it’s 100 miles south from Edinburgh to Hadrian’s Wall; to Durham, it’s another 50 miles.

To Hadrian’s Wall: From Edinburgh, head south on Dalkeith Road (a handy Cameron Toll Shopping Center with a Sainsbury’s grocery and cheap gas is off to your right as you head out of town; gas and parking behind store). Follow Dalkeith Road for about four miles (10 minutes) until you reach the Sheriffhall roundabout. Take the exit to A-68 (straight ahead). The A-68 road takes you to Hadrian’s Wall in 2.5 hours. You’ll pass Jedburgh and its abbey after one hour. (For one last shot of Scotland shopping, there’s a bus tour’s delight just before Jedburgh, with kilt makers, woolens, and a sheepskin shop.) Across from Jedburgh’s lovely abbey is a free parking lot, a good visitors center, and pay WCs. The England/Scotland border is a fun, quick stop (great view, ice cream, and tea caravan). Just after the turn for Colwell, turn right onto the A-6079, and roller-coaster four miles down to Low Brunton. Then turn right onto the B-6318, and stay on it by turning left at Chollerford, following the Roman wall westward.

To Durham: If you’re heading straight to Durham, you can take the scenic coastal route on the A-1 (a few more miles than the A-68, but similar time), which takes you near Holy Island and Bamburgh Castle.

▲▲Holyrood Park: Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags