INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Y

A

Aberdeenshire Coast: 444–445

Aberdour Castle: 561

Aberfoyle: 222–223

Aberlour: 430–431

Abertarff House (Inverness): 384

Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Act of Union (1707): 49, 81, 202, 496

Afternoon tea: 529; Edinburgh, 53, 62–63, 88, 93, 133; Glasgow, 160, 169–170, 191–192

Airbnb: 22, 514–515, 519

Air-conditioning, in hotels: 520

Airports: Edinburgh, 33, 141–142; Glasgow, 193–194; Kirkwall, 466

Air travel: 21, 552

Aldour Bridge (Pitlochry): 417

Alfred Dunhill Links Championship (St. Andrews): 229–230

Almanac, Scotland: 483

Ambulance: 500

Andrew, Saint: 89

“Angels’ share”: 418, 531

Angels’ Share, The (movie): 559

Anstruther: 255

An Torr: 316, 319–320

Apartment rentals: 514–515, 518–520

Apothecary’s Tower (Portree): 348

Applecross: 449, 452

Applecross Road: 449

Apps: 26, 535–536; Edinburgh transit, 36; maps and navigation, 36, 508, 546; messaging, 536; Orkney Islands, 467; payment, 26, 504; sightseeing, 508, 510; user reviews, 515

Archaeological sites: See Prehistoric sites

Ardconnel Street (Inverness): 390

Ardmair: 455

Ardsmuir Prison: 561

Ardvrech Castle: 456

Argyle Battery (Edinburgh): 63–64

Argyle Street (Glasgow): 153–155; eating, 190–191

Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders Museum (Stirling): 205

Argyll Arcade (Glasgow): 155

Argyll’s Lodging (Stirling): 206–207

Arisaig: 335

Armadale Castle: 370–371, 491

Arrochar: 301

Arthur’s Seat (Edinburgh): 87, 107–108

Ashton Lane (Glasgow): 165, 182, 188–189

Athenaeum (Glasgow): 157

Atholl Country Life Museum: 425

Atholl Road (Pitlochry): 413–415

Atlantis Leisure Centre (Oban): 278

ATMs: 503–505

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 553

Auld Reekie Tours (Edinburgh): 118

B

Bagpipes: 207–208, 388, 412, 560; National Piping Centre (Glasgow), 150, 160, 169

Baile Mòr (Iona): 292

Bakehouse Close (Edinburgh): 84, 561

Balfron: 222

Ballachulish: 287, 312; eating, 324; sleeping, 323

Ballater: 411, 438–440

Balloch: 301

Ballymeanoch: 307

Balmoral Cairns Walk: 443

Balmoral Castle: 411, 434–438, 490

Balmoral Hotel (Edinburgh): 56

Balnaknock: 361

Balquhidder: 225

Bank of Scotland (Edinburgh): 47, 77, 90

Banks (banking): alerting to travel, 25. See also Money

Bank Street (Edinburgh): 47–48

Barnhouse Village: 473

Barrie, J. M.: 83, 100

Bath Street (Glasgow): 182

Battle of Bannockburn: 72, 195, 214–215; background, 214–215, 485; Visitors Centre and Monument, 214–215

Battle of Culloden: 7, 221, 395–400; background, 396–397, 491

Battle of Stirling Bridge: 195, 201, 205, 212–214

Battle of the Spoiling Dike: 372

Beaches: Bora, 460; Ceannabeinne, 457; Durness, 457; East Neuk, 254–255; Iona, 297; Lochinver, 456; Melvich, 458; Orkney Islands, 462, 479; St. Andrews, 232, 237; Scourie, 456

Bealach na Bà: 449

Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs): overview, 516–518. See also specific destinations

Beer: 529, 532; Tennent’s Brewery (Glasgow), 150, 174. See also Pubs

Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre: 452

Ben More (Mull): 291

Ben Nevis: 288, 313, 328–329

Bettyhill: 458

Beverages: 529–534. See also Afternoon tea; Beer; Whisky

Biking (bike rentals): Edinburgh, 33–34; Glencoe, 313; Inverness, 380–381; Oban, 274; Pitlochry, 413; Portree, 343

Birding: 299, 300

Bishop’s Palaces (Kirkwall): 468

Blackness Castle: 561

Black puddings: 525

Black Spout (Pitlochry): 418–419

Blair Athol Distillery (Pitlochry): 410, 417–418

Blair Atholl: 425

Blair Castle: 410, 424–425, 491

Blue Badge Local Guides (Edinburgh): 37

Boat cruises: Loch Katrine, 224; Loch Ness, 381, 405, 406; Oban, 275. See also Ferries

Bonnie Price Charlie: See Charles Edward Stuart

Books, recommended: 556–558; for children, 560

Bora: 460

Boswell, James: 50, 83, 101, 557

Botticelli, Sandro: 93–94

“Bouncy Bridge” (Inverness): 384, 386

Braemar: 436, 440–441, 443

Braemar Castle: 441

Braemar Gathering: 440–441

Braemar Highland Games Centre: 441

Breakfast (fry-up): overview, 523

Brexit: 91, 498

Bridge of Allan: 211; eating, 211

Bridge Street (Ballater): 439

Bridge Street (Edinburgh): 51

Brig O’Turk: 225

Britannia Royal Yacht (Leith): 38–39, 102–103

“British”: use of term, 497

British Golf Museum (R&A World Golf Museum; St. Andrews): 232, 243–244

British Open (St. Andrews): 229–230, 241

British radio: 545

British-Yankee vocabulary: 565–569

Broadford: 370; eating, 370

Brown, John: 437–438

Brush-skiing, in Hillend: 111

Buchanan Street (Glasgow): 155, 157–160, 181

Budgeting: 21

Budget tips: See Money-saving tips

Burial Island: 312

Burns, Robert: 50, 76, 77, 80–81, 82, 100, 104, 156, 492, 525, 556, 558; biographical sketch, 494–495; Writers’ Museum (Edinburgh), 46, 76–77

Burrell Collection (Glasgow): 151, 180–181

Buses: 542; Edinburgh, 35–36, 40; map, 538. See also specific destinations

Business hours: 501

Butts Wynd (St. Andrews): 233

Byres Road (Glasgow): 161

Byre Theater (St. Andrews): 230

C

Cabs: 543; tipping, 506. See also specific destinations

Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop (Edinburgh): 52, 114–115

Cadies & Witchery Tours (Edinburgh): 118

Cairngorms National Park: 409, 422, 428, 434

Caledonian Canal: 332–333, 387, 406–408

Caledonian Canal Centre: 407, 408

Callander: 227

Calton Cemetery (Edinburgh): 52, 110

Calton Hill (Edinburgh): 52, 110–111

Calvin, John (Calvinism): 78, 234, 235, 486

Camera obscura (Edinburgh): 39, 45, 73

Cameron Square (Fort William): 327

Campervan rentals: 521

Camping, overview: 521

Candlemaker Row (Edinburgh): 113

Canongate (Edinburgh): 52–53

Canongate Kirk (Edinburgh): 52–53

Canonmills (Edinburgh): 109

Cardhu Distillery (Cardow): 430, 433–434

Carfax Close: 561

Car insurance: 545–546

Car navigation: 546

Car rentals: 21, 543–545; Orkney Island, 466; Portree, 343

Car travel (driving): 547–551; best two-week trip, 18–19; distances and time, 547; road signs, 548; roundabouts, 549–550. See also specific destinations

Castlehill (Edinburgh): 44–45

Castles: architecture, 489; at a glance, 490–491; Ardvrech Castle, 456; Armadale Castle, 370–371, 491; Balmoral Castle, 411, 434–438, 490; Blair Castle, 410, 424–425, 491; Braemar Castle, 441; Cawdor Castle, 401–402, 490; Craigmillar Castle, 106, 491, 561; Doune Castle, 219–220, 491, 561; Dunnottar Castle, 411, 444–445, 491; Dunollie Castle, 277–278; Dunrobin Castle, 460–461; Duntulm Castle, 360; Dunvegan Castle, 363–365, 490; Eilean Donan Castle, 373–374, 449, 490; Glamis Castle, 253–254, 491; Inveraray Castle, 303, 305, 491; Inverness Castle, 383, 386; Mey Castle, 459; St. Andrews Castle, 235, 237, 491; Stirling Castle, 198–206, 490; Urquhart Castle, 405–406, 491. See also Edinburgh Castle

Castle Sands (St. Andrews): 237

Castle Stalker: 286–287

Cathedral of St. Columba (Dunkeld): 425–426

Cathedral Precinct (Glasgow): 170–174

Causewayhead Road (Stirling): 210

Cawdor (village): 402

Cawdor Castle: 401–402, 490

Ceannabeinne Beach: 457

Ceilidh dancing: 184, 246, 280, 377

Cell phones: 26. See also Apps

Celtic Shop (Glasgow): 154

Chain restaurants, overview: 527–528

Chariots of Fire (movie): 107, 232

Charles Edward Stuart (“Bonnie Price Charlie”): 90, 99–100, 195, 202, 328, 331, 333–334, 334, 344, 360, 364, 370, 491–492; Battle of Culloden, 395–400, 491

Charles I: 68, 99, 328, 487

Charles II: 49, 68, 99

Charlotte Square (Edinburgh): 61

Childhood, Museum of (Edinburgh): 39, 51, 81

Children, recommended books: 560

Churches: architecture, 488. See also specific churches

Church of the Holy Rude (Stirling): 206

Church Street (Inverness): 384–385

Clachaig Inn: 316, 319, 322, 324

Cladich Farm Highland Cattle: 306

Clan system: 372, 482

Clarinda’s Tea Room (Edinburgh): 53, 133

Classroom Europe, Rick Steves: 26, 553

Clava Cairns: 400–401, 561

Climate: 20, 563

Clothing sizes: 562–563

Clyde River: 143, 178–180; boat cruises, 180; shipyards of Glasgow, 179

Cockburn Street (Edinburgh): 50–51

Coffin Cairn: 316

Colbost: eating, 354, 367

Columba, Saint: 294, 295, 385, 425–426, 482

Columba 1400 Centre (Skye): 359

Commando Memorial (Spean Bridge): 329

Consulates: 500

Coral Beach (Skye): 366

Corrieshalloch: 453–454

Costs of trip: 21

Covid-19: 58, 160; entry requirements, 499

Craigellachie: 431

Craigellachie Bridge: 431

Craigmillar Castle: 106, 491, 561

Craignure (Mull): 291

Crail: 254–255

Cranesmuir: 561

Crannog Centre (Loch Tay): 225, 410, 426–427

Crannogs: 225, 410, 426–427, 482

Crathie Kirk (Ballater): 437

Credit cards: 25, 502–506, 546

Cresswell Lane (Glasgow): 165, 182

Crofting: 360–361, 362, 458–459, 460

Cromwell, Oliver: 68, 325, 445, 487

Crown jewels: 68–69

Crown Square (Edinburgh): 66, 68

Cruises: See Boat cruises

Cuillin Hills: 368–369

Culloden Battlefield: 15, 395–400; background of, 396–397, 491; self-guided tour, 397–400; tours, 382, 395–396

Culross: 218–219

Culross Abbey: 219

Culross “Palace”: 218

Currency and exchange: 503

Customs regulations: 507

D

Dalí, Salvador: 177

Dalkeith Road (Edinburgh): 30; eating, 139–140; hiking, 108; map, 128–129; pubs, 120–121; shopping, 116; sleeping, 127–130

Dancing: See Ceilidh dancing; Highland dancing

Deacon Brodie’s Tavern (Edinburgh): 47, 136

Deanston Distillery (Doune): 220, 225

Dean Village: 108–109

Debit cards: 25, 502–506

Deeside: 411, 434–444; hiking, 411, 441–444

Dee Valley Confectioners (Ballater): 439

Department stores: Edinburgh, 58, 113; Glasgow, 155

Desserts, overview: 529

Devil’s Staircase: 316, 321

Dewar, Donald: 159

Dining: See Eating

Dinosaurs: 87, 175–176, 403

Discounts: 501. See also Money-saving tips

Discovery (Dundee): 250–251

Discovery Point (Dundee): 250–251

Distilleries: See Whisky

Dochart Falls: 225, 427–428

Dr. Neil’s Garden (Edinburgh): 109–110

Dog Cemetery (Edinburgh): 66

Dolly the sheep: 89

Dome, the (Edinburgh): 59

Doune Castle: 219–220, 491, 561

Downton Abbey (TV series): 303, 305

Doyle, Arthur Conan: 83

Drambuie: 370

Driving: See Car travel

Drygate Brewing (Glasgow): 174

Drymen: 221

Duddingston Village (Edinburgh): 109–110

Dufftown: 432

Duirinish Peninsula: 366

Duirinish Standing Stone: 366

Duke’s Pass: 223–224

Dunadd: 307

Dunbar’s Hospital (Inverness): 384

Dun Beag Broch (Skye): 366

Dunbeath: 460

Duncan, John: 98

Duncansby Head Lighthouse: 459–460

Duncansby Stacks: 460

Dunchraigaig Cairn: 307

Dundee: 249–253

Dunkeld: 410, 425–426

Dunnet: 458–459

Dunnet Head: 458

Dunnottar Castle: 411, 444–445, 491

Dunollie Castle and Museum: 277–278

Dunrobin Castle: 460–461

Duntulm Castle: 360

Dunvegan Castle: 363–365, 490

Durham: car travel, 142

Durness: 456, 457

Dyce, William: 97–98

Dynamic currency conversion: 504

Dynamic Earth (Edinburgh): 87–88

E

Earl’s Palaces (Kirkwall): 468

Easdale (Seil): 280

East Coast: 460–461

Eastern Scotland: 16, 409–445; at a glance, 410–411; map, 412. See also specific destinations

East Neuk: 254–255

East Sands (St. Andrews): 237

Eating: 521–529; chain restaurants, 527–528; money-saving tips, 22, 523–524, 526, 527–529; tipping, 506, 522. See also specific destinations

Economy of Scotland: 483

Edinburgh: 12, 29–142; at a glance, 38–39; arrival in, 31–33; eating, 131–141; embassies, 500; experiences, 107–113; festivals, 33, 111–113, 555–556; helpful hints, 33–35; itineraries, 30; nightlife, 117–121; orientation, 30–31; shopping, 113–117; sights, 62–106; sleeping, 121–131; tourist information, 31; tours, 36–37, 40–41, 117–118; transportation, 31–33, 35–36, 141–142; walking tours, 41–61

Edinburgh, Museum of: 39, 52, 84

Edinburgh Airport: 33, 141–142

Edinburgh Castle: 43–44, 62–73, 490; eating, 62–63; general info, 38, 62–63; guided tours, 62; map, 64–65; self-guided tour, 63–73

Edinburgh Festival: 33, 111–112, 556; tickets, 24–25, 45, 112

Edinburgh Fringe Festival: 33, 50, 112, 556

Edinburgh Gin: 75

Edinburgh Hub: 45, 112

Edinburgh International Film Festival: 112, 556

Edinburgh Jazz and Blues Festival: 111, 556

Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour: 117

Edinburgh Military Tattoo: 33, 43, 112, 556; tickets, 24–25, 112

Edinburgh Tour Guides: 36–37

Edradour Distillery (Pitlochry): 418–419

Eilean Donan Castle: 373–374, 449, 490

Electricity: 501

Elgol: 369

Elizabeth The Queen Mother: 253–254, 459, 491

Embassies: 500

Emergencies: 500

“English”: use of term, 497

Entertainment: budgeting, 21. See also Music; Pubs; Scottish folk evenings; Theater

Environmental footprint (going green): 501

Etape Loch Ness bike race (Inverness): 377

Events: See Festivals

Exchange rate: 503

Explorers Garden (Pitlochry): 416

F

Fairy Flag: 364

Fairy Glen (Skye): 362

Fairy Pools (Skye): 367, 368–369

Falkirk: 215–218

Falkirk Wheel: 216–218

Falls of Dochart: 225, 427–428

Falls of Measach: 454

Fergusson, Robert: 53

Ferries: 542–543; Iona, 287–289, 291–292; Kerrera, 278–279; Mull, 287–289; Oban, 286; Orkney Islands, 463, 466, 480; Skye, 330, 331, 332, 335, 337–338; Staffa, 290

Ferry Road (Pitlochry): 413–414

Festival of Politics (Edinburgh): 112–113

Festivals: 555–556; Edinburgh, 33, 111–113, 556; Inverness, 377. See also specific festivals

Fingal’s Cave (Staffa): 299–300

Finnieston (Glasgow): 146, 167–168; eating, 190–191; nightlife, 183; sleeping, 184–185

Finn MacCool: 300

Fionnphort (Mull): 291, 292

Firth of Forth: 195

Fish-and-chips: 246–247, 285, 324, 345, 353, 408, 455, 470, 524

Fisheries Museum (Anstruther): 255

Flag, Scottish: 483

Flodden Wall (Edinburgh): 52

Flodigarry: 359–360

Folk evenings: See Scottish folk evenings

Folk museums: 280, 314–315; Newtonmore, 410, 423–424

Foog’s Gate (Edinburgh): 65

Fort Augustus: 330–331, 406, 408

Fort William: 15, 325–331; eating, 330; itineraries, 309; maps, 310–311, 326; sights, 327–329; sleeping, 329–330; tourist information, 327; transportation, 330–331

Frasers (Glasgow): 155

Fringe Festival (Edinburgh): 33, 50, 112, 556

G

Gaelic language: 259–260, 382–383, 532

Gaelic pubs, in Glasgow: 182

Gainsborough, Thomas: 95–96

Gair Loch: 453

Gairloch: 453

Gallanach: 279

Geography of Scotland: 483

George IV Bridge (Edinburgh): 47; eating, 131–132

George IV of the United Kingdom: 7, 60

George Square (Glasgow): 156

George Street (Edinburgh): 59, 113

Georgian House (Edinburgh): 38, 61, 101–102

Georgian New Town (Edinburgh): See New Town

Ghost walks: Edinburgh, 118; St. Andrews, 230; Stirling, 207

Giant Angus MacAskill Museum (Skye): 365

Gig Guide: 31, 183

Gillespie Wynd (St. Andrews): 232

Gills Bay: 459, 463, 466

Gin distilleries: in Edinburgh, 115; Stirling Distillery, 208

Gladstone’s Land (Edinburgh): 38, 46, 73, 76

Glamis Castle: 253–254, 491

Glasgow: 12, 143–194; at a glance, 150–151; arrival in, 146–147; eating, 188–192; entertainment, 182–184; helpful hints, 147–148; itineraries, 144–145; maps, 145, 148–149, 153, 162–163, 186–187; nightlife, 182–184; orientation, 146; shopping, 181–182; sights/activities, 168–181; sleeping, 184–188; tourist information, 146; tours, 151–152; transportation, 146–147, 148–151, 193–194; walking tours, 152–168

Glasgow Botanic Gardens: 161, 164

Glasgow Cathedral: 150, 170, 171–172; eating near, 192

Glasgow City Chambers: 156

Glasgow Gallery of Modern Art: 156

Glasgow International Airport: 193–194

Glasgow Royal Concert Hall: 158–159

Glasgow School of Art: 158, 170

Glebe Cairn: 308

Glen Aray: 305

Glenbrittle: 369

Glencoe: 15, 310–325; eating, 323–324; helpful hints, 313; itineraries, 309; map, 310–311; sights/activities, 313–321; sleeping, 322–323; tourist information, 312–313; transportation, 325

Glencoe Folk Museum: 314–315

Glencoe Lochan: 317–319

Glencoe Massacre (1692): 314–315, 328, 490

Glencoe Pass: 316

Glencoe Ski Centre: 317

Glencoe Valley: 315–317; driving tour, 315–317; hiking, 317–321; map, 318–319

Glencoe Visitor Centre: 313, 315, 316, 324

Glen Croe: 301

Glen Etive: 316–317

Glenfiddich Distillery (Dufftown): 411, 430, 432

Glenfinnan: 331, 333–334

Glenfinnan Monument: 334

Glenfinnan Viaduct: 334

Glenlee (Glasgow): 180

Glenlivet Distillery: 430, 433

Golf: about, 242; British Open, 229–230, 241; Cawdor, 402; Edinburgh, 111; Pitlochry, 416; St. Andrews, 231–232, 240–244; museum, 232, 243–244; reservations, 25, 241

Good Spirits Company (Glasgow): 157–158, 182

Gordon Square (Fort William): 327

Government: 483, 496–498

Grassmarket (Edinburgh): 92–93, 113; pubs, 119–120

Great Glen Fault: 407

Great Glen Way: 261, 387

Greyfriars Bobby Statue (Edinburgh): 47, 91–92

Greyfriars Cemetery (Edinburgh): 91–92

Gruinard Beach: 453

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 553; updates, 27, 552

Gunn, Neil: 460, 558

H

Hadrian’s Wall: 482; car travel, 142, 194

Haggis: 133, 136, 222, 525

Haggis Experience (Balfron): 222

Haggis hurling: 265

Haig, Douglas, Earl: 71, 84, 100

Hamilton Grand (St. Andrews): 231–232

Hanover Street (Edinburgh): 60

Harris Tweed: 117

Harry Potter sights: 48, 83, 92, 312, 313, 316; Jacobite Steam Train, 332

Harvey Nichols (Edinburgh): 113

Heart of Midlothian (Edinburgh): 48

Hebrides: 270–308. See also specific destinations

Helix Park (Falkirk): 216

Herring: 276, 342, 345

Hidden Valley: 316, 320

Higgs, Peter: 101

Highlands: 257–480; at a glance, 15–16; hiking, 261; safety, 260–261; itineraries, 262–263, 266; map, 258–259; overview, 5–6, 9, 257–269; tours,: from Edinburgh, 40–41; from Glasgow, 152; from Inverness, 381–382; from Oban, 274, 275; transportation, 266–269. See also specific destinations

Highland Boundary Fault: 220, 222, 257, 301, 481

Highland cattle: 181, 261, 436; Cladich Farm, 306

Highland Clearances: 252, 357

Highland dancing: 265, 267, 280, 348, 441

Highlander (movie): 559

Highland Folk Museum (Newtonmore): 410, 423–424, 561

Highland Games: 262, 264–265, 556; Braemar, 440–441; Inverness, 377; Oban, 274; Pitlochry, 413; Skye, 347

Highland Park Distillery (Kirkwall): 469

High Street (Edinburgh): 47–48, 50–51

Hiking (walking): Ben Nevis, 329; Deeside, 411, 441–444; Duke’s Pass, 223–224; Edinburgh, 107–111; Fort William, 327; Glencoe, 317–321; Highlands, overview, 261; Inverness, 387; Pitlochry, 416; Skye, 348–349, 365–366, 368–369; Stirling, 205–206

Hillend: 111

Hillhead (Glasgow): 146, 161, 164–165; eating, 188–190; map, 162–163; nightlife, 183; shopping, 182; sleeping, 185

Hillhead Bookclub (Glasgow): 164–165, 183, 189

Himalayas Course (St. Andrews): 243

Historic Scotland’s Explorer Pass: 21, 31, 509–510

Hogmanay: 556

Holidays: 555–556

Holyroodhouse Palace (Edinburgh): 38, 54–55, 86–87, 490

Holyrood Park (Edinburgh): 107–108

Hootananny (Inverness): 384, 388

Hostels: 520–521; Edinburgh, 125; Inverness, 391; Oban, 284; Portree, 350

Hotels: overview, 513–516; rates and deals, 511–512; reservations, 24, 518–519; small, overview, 516–518. See also specific destinations

Hub, the (Edinburgh): 45, 112

Hume, David: 48, 50, 52, 110, 492

Hunterian Gallery (Glasgow): 151, 166, 174–175

Hunterian Museum (Glasgow): 151, 166, 175–176

Hutton, James: 50

I

I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger (Edinburgh), 136; (St. Andrews), 248

Indian cuisine: overview, 528–529

Industrial Revolution: 90–91, 492–493

Inner Hebrides: 15, 270–308; map, 288. See also specific destinations

Inn on the Mile (Edinburgh): 51, 121

Internet security: 536

Inveraray: 305

Inveraray Castle: 303, 305, 491

Inveraray Jail: 305

Inverewe Gardens (Polewe): 453

Invermoriston: 407

Inverness: 15, 225, 376–394; eating, 392–393; excursion areas, 395–402; helpful hints, 377, 380; itineraries, 375; maps, 378–379, 404; nightlife, 388–389, 393; orientation, 376; shopping, 388; sights/activities, 386–387; sleeping, 389–391; tourist information, 376; tours, 380–382; transportation, 377, 393–394, 444; walking tour, 382–386

Inverness Botanic Gardens: 387

Inverness Castle: 383, 386

Inverness Clock Tower: 382

Inverness Museum and Art Gallery: 386

Inverness Old High Church: 385

Inverness Shinty Club: 377, 387

Iona: 292–298; eating, 298; history of, 295; map, 293; sights/activities, 293–297; sleeping, 297; tours, 287–289; transportation, 287–290, 293

Iona Abbey: 294–296

Iona Community’s Welcome Centre: 296

Iona Heritage Centre: 294

Irish connection: 304

Irn-Bru: 10, 415, 498, 534

Island of Discussion: 312

Isle of Hoy: 479

Isle of Iona: 292–298; eating, 298; history of, 295; map, 293; sights/activities, 293–297; sleeping, 297; tours, 287–289; transportation, 287–290, 293

Isle of Kerrera: 278–279

Isle of Lewis: 454

Isle of Mull: 291–292; tours, 287–289; transportation, 287–290

Isle of Seil: 279–280

Isle of Skye: 15, 336–374; feuding clans of, 372; itineraries, 337, 355; map, 340–341; sights, 356–371; tours, 341; from Inverness, 381–382; transportation, 337–339. See also specific destinations

Isle of Staffa: 298–300; transportation, 290

Italian Chapel (Scapa Flow): 476–477

Itineraries: designing your own, 17, 20, 23; Edinburgh, 30; Glasgow, 144–145; Glencoe, 309; Highlands, 262–263, 266; Inner Hebrides, 270–271; Inverness, 375; Northern Scotland, 447; Orkney Islands, 463; St. Andrews, 227; Skye, 337, 355; Stirling, 196

J

Jacobites: best sights, 492; overview, 487, 490–492

Jacobite Exhibit (Glenfinnan): 333–334

Jacobite Steam Train: 332

James V of Scotland: 68, 201, 202–203, 486

James VI of Scotland: 68, 70, 89, 99, 201, 205, 486–487

James VII of Scotland: 99

Jenners Department Store (Edinburgh): 58

Jewelry stores, in Edinburgh: 117

John Knox House (Edinburgh): 39, 51, 82–83

John Muir Trust (Pitlochry): 415

John Muir Way: 261

Johnnie Walker: 430, 433–434; Princes Street (Edinburgh), 75

John O’Groats: 448, 459–460

Johnson, Samuel: 50, 557

Jute Museum (Dundee): 252–253

K

Kayaking: 230, 275, 341

Kelpies (Falkirk): 215–216

Kelvin, Lord William Thomson: 167

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Glasgow): 150, 167, 176–178; eating near, 190

Kelvingrove Lawn Bowling (Glasgow): 178

Kelvingrove Park (Glasgow): 167

Kenmore: 225, 426

Kerrera: 278–279

Kilmartin Glen: 306–308

Kilmartin Museum: 308

Kilt Rock (Skye): 358–359

Kilts: overview, 7–8; shopping for, 116, 388

Kincraig: 423

Kinlochewe: 452

Kinlochmore: 321

Kirk, Robert: 223

Kirkwall: 462, 463, 467–471; eating, 470–471; sights, 467–469; sleeping, 470; tourist information, 467

Knights of the Thistle Chapel (Edinburgh): 79–80

Knockan Crag: 455

Knox, John: 49, 78–79, 80, 99, 171, 234, 235, 486; House (Edinburgh), 39, 51, 82–83

Kyleakin: 369–370

Kyle of Durness: 456

Kyle of Lochalsh: 370

Kyle of Tongue: 458

L

Lady Stair’s Close (Edinburgh): 39, 46, 76

Laich Hall (Edinburgh): 70

Laidhay Croft Museum (Latheron): 460

Lallybroch: 561

Landseer, Edwin: 97

Language: 483; British-Yankee vocabulary, 565–569; Scots words, 532–533. See also Gaelic language

Language barrier: 10, 532–533

Latheron: 460

Lawn bowling: Glasgow, 178; Oban, 278; Pitlochry, 416

Lawnmarket (Edinburgh): 45–46

Lealt Gorge: 358

Leault Working Sheepdogs: 410, 422–423

Leith Walkway: 108–109

Lennon, John: 457

Leoch Castle: See Doune Castle

Leslie’s Bar (Edinburgh): 120–121

Leuchars: 227–228, 249

Lighthouse, the (Glasgow): 155, 159

Linlithgow Palace: 561

Linn of Dee: 441, 443–444

Lister, Joseph: 167

Literary Pub Tour (Edinburgh): 117

Little Loch Broom: 453

Live music: See Music

Livingstone, David: 57, 172

Loch Achray: 224, 225

Loch Achtriochtan: 316

Loch Assynt: 456

Loch Awe: 305

Loch Carron: 449

Loch Coruisk: 369

Loch Drunkie: 224

Loch Dunvegan: 362, 365

Loch Eriboll: 457

Loch Ewe: 453

Loch Fyne: 303

Lochgilphead: 305

Loch Glendhu: 456

Lochinver: 456

Loch Katrine: 224–225

Loch Lomond: 220–222, 301

Loch Long: 301

Loch Maree: 452–453

Loch Muick: 442–443

Lochnagar: 442–443

Loch nan Uamh: 335

Loch Ness: 15, 403–405; cruises, 381, 405, 406; map, 404; tours, from Inverness, 381

Loch Ness Centre: 405

Loch Ness Marathon (Inverness): 377

Loch Ness monster: 403–405

Loch Shiel: 334

Loch Tay: 225, 426–427

Loch Torridon: 452

Loch Venachar: 225

Love Your Sweets (Pitlochry): 414–415

Lowlands: 29–256; at a glance, 12; overview, 5–6, 9. See also Edinburgh; Glasgow; St. Andrews; Stirling

Luvians Bottle Shop (St. Andrews): 248

M

Macbeth (Shakespeare): 254, 401, 485, 558

McCaig’s Tower (Oban): 276

MacDonald, Flora: 344, 360, 364, 387, 397; Monument, 361

MacDonalds clan: 360, 370–371, 372

MacDougall clan: 277–278

MacGregor, Rob Roy: 223, 225

MacGregor’s Bar (Inverness): 388, 393

Mackenzie clan: 336, 352, 372, 373–374, 561

Mackintosh, Charles Rennie: 91, 144, 150, 155, 177; biographical sketch, 158–159; House (Glasgow), 151, 166, 174–175; at the Willow (Glasgow), 160, 169–170, 181, 191–192

MacLeod clan: 363–365, 372

McTaggart, William: 98

Maeshowe: 472–473

Mail: 536–537

Makars’ Court (Edinburgh): 76

Mallaig: 332, 335

Mandela, Nelson: 157

Maps: See Map Index

Markets: 526; Edinburgh, 33; Inverness, 384. See also Mercat cross

Market Street (St. Andrews): 239–240; eating, 245–246

Marks & Spencer: 528; (Edinburgh), 138, 139

Martin, George R.: 448

Martyrs’ Monument (Edinburgh), 52; (St. Andrews), 232

Mary, Queen of Scots: 68, 82–83, 86–87, 89–90, 99, 201, 204, 235, 240, 396, 486

Mary-Ann’s Cottage (Dunnet): 458–459

Mary King’s Close (Edinburgh): 39, 81

Mayfield Gardens (Edinburgh): 30; sleeping, 130–131

Meall House (Portree): 346–347

Measach Falls: 454

Medical help: 500

Melvich: 458

Menteith Lake: 222

Mercat cross: Edinburgh, 49–50; Inverness, 383; Kirkwall, 468–469; Portree, 344; Stirling, 208

Mercat Tours (Edinburgh): 37

Merchant City (Glasgow): 155–156, 182

Metric system: 562–563

Mey Castle: 459

Midges: 260, 387, 441

Midhope Castle: 561

Midlothian Snowsports Centre (Hillend): 111

Military Tattoo (Edinburgh): 33, 43, 112, 556; tickets, 112

Mobile phones: 26, 534–536. See also Apps

Money: 502–507; average daily expenses, 21; budgeting, 21

Money-saving tips: 21–22, 501; eating, 523–524, 526, 527–529; sightseeing passes, 21, 31, 509–510; sleeping, 21–22, 511–512

Mons Meg (Edinburgh): 66

Monty Python and the Holy Grail (movie): 219, 312

Morriston Falls: 407

Mound, the (Edinburgh): 56, 77

Movies, recommended: 559–560

Muir, John: 415

Muir of Dinnet National Nature Reserve: 441–442

Mull: 291–292; tours, 287–289; transportation, 287–290

Mungo, Saint: 156, 164, 172–173

Museum of Childhood (Edinburgh): 39, 51, 81

Museum of Edinburgh: 39, 52, 84

Museum of the Isles (Skye): 371

Museum on the Mound (Edinburgh): 77

Music: Edinburgh, 119–121; Glasgow, 161, 183–184, 189–190; Inverness, 388–389; Oban, 280–281; Portree, 349; Stirling, 207–208. See also Scottish folk evenings

N

National Covenant: 79

National Gallery (Edinburgh): 38, 56, 93–98

National Library of Scotland (Edinburgh): 47, 77

National Museum of Scotland (Edinburgh): 38, 47, 88–91; eating near, 136–137

National Piping Centre (Glasgow): 150, 160, 169

National Portrait Gallery (Edinburgh): 38, 59, 98–101

National Trust for Scotland: 509

National War Memorial (Edinburgh): 70–71

National War Museum Scotland (Edinburgh): 71, 73

Necropolis (Glasgow): 151, 170, 173

Neist Point and Lighthouse: 366–367

Nelson Mandela Place (Glasgow): 157

Neptune’s Staircase: 332–333

Ness of Brodgar: 473–474

Nether Largie North Cairn: 308

Nether Largie Standing Stones: 308

Nevis Range Mountain Experience: 328–329

Newington Road (Edinburgh): eating, 140

Newtonmore, folk museum: 410, 423–424

New Town (Edinburgh): 30, 55–61; eating, 137–138; map, 56–57; museums, 93–102; shopping, 113; walking tour, 55–61

Nicolson Kiltmakers (Edinburgh): 116

Nightlife: budgeting, 21. See also Music; Pubs; Theater

No. 1 High Street (Edinburgh): 120

Nor’ Loch (Edinburgh): 55

North Beach (Iona): 297

North Coast: 447–448, 456–460; map, 450–451

Northern Scotland: 16, 446–480; itineraries, 447; map, 450–451. See also specific destinations

North Pier (Oban): 275–276, 279

Northwest Skye: 362–367

Nunnery Ruins (Iona): 294

O

Oban: 15, 225, 271–287; eating, 284–286; helpful hints, 274; itineraries, 270–271; maps, 272–273, 288, 302; nightlife, 280–281; sights/activities, 275–280; sleeping, 281–284; tourist information, 271; tours, 274, 275; transportation, 271, 274, 286–287

Oban Lawn Bowling Club: 278

Oban War & Peace Museum: 277

Oban Whisky Distillery: 277

Old Calton Cemetery (Edinburgh): 52, 110

Old Course (St. Andrews): 231–232, 241, 243; reservations, 25, 241

Old High Church (Inverness): 385

Old Kirkyard (Stirling): 206

Old Man of Hoy: 480

Old Man of Storr (Skye): 348–349, 357–358

Old Parliament House (Edinburgh): 49, 81

Old Town (Edinburgh): 30; eating, 131–137; maps, 42–43, 122–123, 134–135; Royal Mile walk, 41–55; sleeping, 121, 124–125

One O’Clock Gun (Edinburgh): 64

Òran Mòr (Glasgow): 161, 183, 189–190

Orbital Recreational Track: 319

Orkney chairs: 476

Orkney Islands: 461–480; itineraries, 463; map, 464–465; sights/activities, 471–480; tours, 466–467; from Inverness, 382, 466; transportation, 463, 466, 480. See also Kirkwall

Orkney Museum (Kirkwall): 468

Our Dynamic Earth (Edinburgh): 87–88

Outlander (novels and TV series): 84, 218, 219, 312, 361, 401, 424, 558; locations in Scotland, 561; tours: from Edinburgh, 37, 40; from Inverness, 380, 382

P

Packing tips and checklist: 26, 564

Palace of Holyroodhouse (Edinburgh): 38, 54–55, 86–87, 490

Parliament Building (Edinburgh): 38, 53–54, 84–85, 495–496

Passports: 24, 27, 500

Pentland Firth: 461

People’s Story Museum (Edinburgh): 39, 52, 83–84

Phones: 534–536

Pickering’s at Summerhall Distillery (Edinburgh): 75

Pickpockets: See Theft alerts

Picts: 89, 101, 304, 307, 385, 386, 417, 461, 471, 482

Pimm’s: 534

Pitlochry: 16, 225, 410–422; eating, 421; helpful hints, 412–413; map, 414–415; sights/activities, 413–419; sleeping, 419–420; tourist information, 412; transportation, 421–422

Pitlochry Bowling Club: 416

Pitlochry Dam Visitors Center: 416–417

Pitlochry Enchanted Forest: 413

Pitlochry Festival Theatre: 416

Pitlochry Golf Course: 416

Pitlochry Whisky Walk: 418–419

Pitt, William: 60

Pittenweem: 254–255

Polewe: 453

Police: 500

Pollok Country Park (Glasgow): 181

Pollok Country Park: 561

Port of Leith Distillery (Edinburgh): 103–104

Portree: 342–355; eating, 352–355; helpful hints, 342–343; map, 343–347; nightlife, 349; sights/activities, 343–349; sleeping, 349–351; tourist information, 342

Portree Harbor: 344–346; eating, 353

Portree Medical Centre: 347

Post offices: 536–537. See also specific destinations

Pot Still (Glasgow): 192

Potterrow (Edinburgh): 92

Pound, British: 503

Prehistoric sites: 306–308, 400–401, 417, 442, 471–476, 481–482

Prestonfield Golf Club (Edinburgh): 111

Prestonfield House (Edinburgh): 140

Prestwick Airport: 194

Prince’s Cairn: 335

Princes Square (Glasgow): 155, 182

Princes Street (Edinburgh): 113

Princes Street Gardens (Edinburgh): 57, 61

Provand’s Lordship (Glasgow): 170, 173

Pubs: 526–527; beer, 529, 532; eating at, 526–527; Edinburgh, 51, 117, 119–121, 136, 139–140; Fort Augustus, 408; Fort William, 330; Glasgow, 182–184; Inverness, 389; Oban, 281; St. Andrews, 247–248; Seil, 280; Stirling, 211

Puffins of Staffa: 299, 300

Q

Queen Anne Garden (Stirling): 201

Queen Elizabeth Forest Park: 223

Queen’s Gallery (Edinburgh): 39, 54, 87

Quiraing, the: 359

R

Radio: 545

Radisson Blu Hotel (Edinburgh): 51

Raeburn, Henry: 97

Rail passes: 538, 540, 552–553

Rail travel: See Train travel

Ramsay, Allan: 97, 492

Rannoch Moor: 317

Raphael: 94

R&A World Golf Museum (St. Andrews): 232, 243–244

Real Mary King’s Close (Edinburgh): 39, 81

Redpath, Anne: 98

Regimental Museum (Stirling): 205

Rembrandt van Rijn: 95, 180

Rental properties: 514–515, 518–520

Resources from Rick Steves: 552–554

Rest-and-Be-Thankful Pass: 302

Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations

Rick Steves resources: 552–554

Riddles Court (Edinburgh): 46

Ring of Brodgar: 474

River Clyde: 143, 178–180; boat cruises, 180; shipyards of Glasgow, 179

River Dee: 434, 441, 443–444

River Forth: 196

River Lealt: 358

River Muick: 442–443

River Ness: 376, 386, 387

Riverside Museum (Glasgow): 150, 178–180

River Spey: 428

Road to the Isles: 331–335

Robertsons of Pitlochry: 414

Robert the Bruce: 63, 68, 89, 201, 202, 304, 485; Battle of Bannockburn, 195, 214–215, 485; biographical sketch, 72

Rocheid Path (Edinburgh): 109

Rose Street (Edinburgh): 60–61

Rosslyn Chapel (Roslin): 39, 104–105

Rothesay Rooms Restaurant (Ballater): 439

Rowling, J.K.: 83, 92. See also Harry Potter sights

Royal and Ancient Golf Club (St. Andrews): 231–232, 241, 243

Royal Apartments (Edinburgh): 69–70

Royal Apartments (Stirling): 203–204

Royal Botanic Garden (Edinburgh): 106, 109

Royal Commonwealth Pool (Edinburgh): 111

Royal Exchange Square (Glasgow): 155–156

Royal Hotel (Portree): 344

Royal Mile (Edinburgh): 30, 38, 41–43; bike tours, 36–37; eating, 131–136; guided tours, 37; hiking, 107–108; map, 42–43; pubs, 119, 120, 136; shopping, 113; sights, 73–88; walking tour, 43–55

Royal Scottish Academy (Edinburgh): 93

Royal Yacht Britannia (Leith): 38–39, 102–103

RRS Discovery (Dundee): 250–251

Rubens, Peter Paul: 95

Russian Arctic Convoy Museum (Ullapool): 453

S

Sabhal Mòr Ostaig (Skye): 371

Sainsbury’s: 528; (Edinburgh), 138, 139, 140; (St. Andrews), 248

St. Andrews: 12, 226–249; arrival in, 227–229; eating, 245–248; excursion areas, 249–256; golf, 25, 231–232, 240–244; helpful hints, 229–230; itineraries, 227; maps, 228–229, 250; orientation, 227; sleeping, 244–245; tourist information, 227; tours, 230; transportation, 227–229, 249; walking tour, 230–240

St. Andrew’s and St. George’s Church (Edinburgh): 59, 138

St. Andrews Castle: 235, 237, 491

St. Andrew’s Cathedral: 237–239

St. Andrew’s Church (Fort William): 327

St. Andrews Old Course: 231–232, 241, 243; reservations, 25, 241

St. Andrews Preservation Trust Museum and Garden: 239

St. Andrew Square (Edinburgh): 58–59; eating, 137–138

St. Andrews University: See University of St. Andrews

St. Columba Cathedral (Dunkeld): 425–426

St. George’s Church (Glasgow): 157

St. Giles’ Cathedral (Edinburgh): 38, 49, 77–81; map, 79; self-guided tour, 78–81

St. James Quarter (Edinburgh): 113

St. Magnus Cathedral (Kirkwall): 467–468

St. Margaret’s Chapel (Edinburgh): 65–66

St. Margaret’s Hope: 463, 466, 479, 480

St. Mark’s Park (Edinburgh): 109

St. Mary’s College (St. Andrews): 240

St. Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art (Glasgow): 151, 170, 172

St. Nicholas Garden (Glasgow): 173

St. Oran’s Chapel (Iona): 294

St. Rule’s Church (St. Andrews): 239

St. Salvator’s College (St. Andrews): 232–234

Salisbury Crags: 107–108

Sally’s Quad (St. Andrews): 233

Salmon ladder, in Pitlochry: 412–413, 416–417

Sandemans New Edinburgh: 37

Sand surfing, in St. Andrews: 230

Sauchiehall Street (Glasgow): 160, 182

Scapa Distillery (Kirkwall): 469

Scapa Flow: 476–480

Scapa Flow Visitors Centre: 479–480

Scorrybreac Path (Skye): 348

Scot, average: 483

Scotch Malt Whisky Society (Edinburgh): 74–75

Scotch whisky: See Whisky

Scotch Whisky Experience (Edinburgh): 39, 45, 74

Scotland’s Jute Museum (Dundee): 252–253

Scotland’s Secret Bunker (St. Andrews): 255–256

Scott, Walter: 7, 46, 76, 83, 104, 156, 223, 224, 493, 557; Monument (Edinburgh), 57–58

“Scottish”: use of term, 497

Scottish Crannog Centre (Loch Tay): 225, 410, 426–427

Scottish Crown Jewels (Edinburgh): 68–69

Scottish Fisheries Museum (Anstruther): 255

Scottish folk dancing, in Edinburgh: 118–119

Scottish folk evenings: Edinburgh, 118–119; Inverness, 388–389; Oban, 280–281

Scottish Highland Games: See Highland Games

Scottish Highlands: See Highlands; and specific destinations

Scottish National Gallery (Edinburgh): 38, 56, 93–98

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Edinburgh): 106

Scottish National Party (SNP): 495, 497

Scottish National Portrait Gallery (Edinburgh): 38, 59, 98–101

Scottish National War Memorial (Edinburgh): 70–71

Scottish Parliament Building (Edinburgh): 38, 53–54, 84–85, 495–496

Scottish Reformation: overview, 234, 486

Scourie: 456

Scrabster: 458; ferry, 463, 480

Sea Kayak Oban: 275

Seasons: 20

Secret Garden (Edinburgh): 109–110

Seil: 279–280

Seven Bridges: 441

Sheadar: 361

Shieldaig: 452

Shinty, in Inverness: 377, 387

Shopping: clothing sizes, 562–563; hours, 501; VAT refunds, 506–507. See also specific destinations

Sightseeing: best two-week trip, 18–19; budgeting, 21; general tips, 510–511; maps and nagivation tools, 507; passes, 21, 31, 509–510; planning tips, 508; reservations and advance tickets, 508–509. See also Itineraries; and specific sights and destinations

Signal Rock: 316, 319–320

SIM cards: 536

Sir Walter Scott Monument (Edinburgh): 57–58

Skaill House: 475–476

Skara Brae: 474–476

Skye: 15, 336–374; feuding clans of, 372; itineraries, 337, 355; map, 340–341; sights, 356–371; tours, 341; from Inverness, 381–382; transportation, 337–339. See also specific destinations

Skye Bridge: 331, 337, 370

Skye Ferry: 330, 331, 332, 335, 337–338

Skye Gathering Hall (Portree): 347

Skye Museum of Island Life: 360–361

Skyfall (movie): 312, 316–317, 559

Sleat Peninsula: 370–371

Sleep code: 512

Sleeping: 511–521; rates and deals, 511–512; reservations, 24, 518–519; types of accommodations, 513–521; user reviews, 515. See also specific destinations

Sligachan: 369

Sligachan Hotel: 351, 354, 368

Smartphones: 26, 534–536. See also Apps

Smith, Adam: 50, 53, 492

Smoo Cave: 457

Soccer: Edinburgh, 48; Glasgow, 144, 147–148, 154

Somerled Square (Portree): 343–344

South Bridge Street (Edinburgh): 51

Speyside: 410, 428–434

Speyside Cooperage (Craigellachie): 411, 431–432

Speyside Whisky Trail: 428–434; map, 429

Sports Hall of Fame (Edinburgh): 91

Staffa: 298–300; tours, 290; transportation, 290

Staffin: 359

Stalker Castle: 286–287

Sterling, British pound: 503

Stevenson, Robert Louis: 6, 46, 47, 76, 82–83, 84, 100, 101, 317, 335, 557, 558, 560

Stirling: 12, 195–212; eating, 210–211; itineraries, 196; maps, 197, 200, 213; sights/activities, 198–208; sleeping, 209–210; tourist information, 196, 198; tours, 207; transportation, 198, 212

Stirling Bagpipes: 207–208

Stirling Castle: 198–206, 490; eating near, 210–211; self-guided tour, 201–206

Stirling Distillery: 208

Stirling Ghost Walk: 207

Stirling Heads Gallery: 204

Stirling Old Town Jail: 207

Stirling Smith Art Gallery and Museum: 208

Stob Dearg: 316

Stob Mhic Mhartuin: 321

Stockbridge: 108–109

Stock Exchange (Glasgow): 157

Stonehaven: 445

Stone of Dunfallandy: 417

Stone of Scone: 69

Stones of Stenness: 473

Storr’s Old Man (Skye): 348–349, 357–358

Strathaven Terrace (Oban): 282

Strathcanaird: 455

Strathcarron: 449

Stromness: 463, 480

Study, the, hiking: 320–321

Sutherland Clan: 460–461

Sutherland Monument: 460

Swimming: Edinburgh, 111; Oban, 278

T

Talisker Distillery (Skye): 367

Tarbet: 301

Tartan Weaving Mill (Edinburgh): 45, 117

Taxes: VAT refunds, 506–507

Taxis: 543; tipping, 506. See also specific destinations

Taybank Gardens (Dunkeld): 426

Taymouth Castle: 426

Tea: See Afternoon tea

Telephones: 534–536

Telford, Thomas: 109, 291, 331–333, 344, 345, 368, 407, 431

Temperatures, average monthly: 563

Temple Wood Stone Circles: 308

Tenement House (Glasgow): 150, 160, 168

Tennent’s Brewery (Glasgow): 150, 174

Theater: Edinburgh, 119; Pitlochry, 416; St. Andrews, 230. See also Edinburgh Festival

Theft alerts: 27, 500

Thistle Chapel (Edinburgh): 79–80

Thistle Street (Edinburgh): 60, 113; eating, 138

Three Chimneys Restaurant (Colbost): 354, 367

Three Lochs Forest Drive: 223–224

Three Sisters: 316, 320

Thurso: 458

Ticks: 260–261

Tigh-an-Truish (Seil): 280

Time zones: 500–501

Tip of Trotternish: 359–360

Tipping: 506, 522

Tolbooth Church (Edinburgh): 45, 112

Tomb of the Eagles: 479

Tomnahurich Bridge: 387

Tomnaverie Stone Circle: 442

Torabhaig Distillery (Skye): 371

Torridon: 452

Tour guides: Edinburgh, 37; reservations, 25; tipping, 506. See also specific destinations

Tourist information: 499–500. See also specific destinations

Tours: Rick Steves, 553. See also specific destinations

Train travel: 537–542; map, 538; tickets, 539, 540, 541–542. See also specific destinations

Transportation: 537–552; budgeting, 21; map, 538; prebooking, 24. See also specific destinations

Travel advisories: 499

Travel insurance: 25, 502, 546

Travel smarts: 27–28

Travel tips: 499–501

Trip costs: 21

Tron Church (Edinburgh): 51

Trossachs National Park: 220–225

Trossachs Woollen Mill (Callander): 225

Trotternish Peninsula: 356–362; map, 356

TV series, recommended: 559–560

Tweed, shopping for: 117, 271

Two Churches Walk (Skye): 366

U

Uber: 36, 141, 149–150, 543

Uig: 359, 361

Ullapool: 454–455

Union Street (Inverness): 384

University of Glasgow: 165–167, 175

University of St. Andrews: 230, 232–235, 236, 240; accommodations, 245; student life, 236

University of Sterling: 211

Unstan Chambered Cairn: 472–473

Urquhart Castle: 405–406, 491

V

Van der Goes, Hugo: 94–95

VAT refunds: 506–507

Verdant Works Jute Museum (Dundee): 252–253

Victoria, Queen: 8, 71, 73, 156, 328, 413, 436, 438, 443, 493

Victoria & Albert Museum of Design Dundee: 251–252

Victorian Market (Inverness): 384

Victoria Street (Edinburgh): 47–48, 113

Vikings: 88, 105, 295, 461–462, 468, 471, 474, 478, 482–483

Visitor information: 499–500. See also specific destinations

Voluntary Guides Association (Edinburgh): 37

W

Waitrose (Glasgow): 161

Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh: 56

Walker’s Shortbread: 430–431

Wallace, William: 63, 66, 72, 89, 195, 202, 223, 485; biographical sketch, 67; Monument (Stirling), 201, 212–214

Wardlaw Museum (St. Andrews): 234–235

Wardpark Studios: 561

Water of Leith Walkway: 108–109

Watt, James: 50, 156, 166, 492

Waverley Bridge (Edinburgh): 55–57

Waverley Station (Edinburgh): 31–32, 141; baggage storage, 33

Weather: 20, 35, 563

Wentworth Prison: 561

Wentworth Street (Portree): 344

West Coast Tours: 274, 287–288, 289

West End (Edinburgh): 30–31; eating, 138–139; map, 126; sleeping, 125–127

West End (Glasgow): 146, 160–168; eating, 188–191; map, 162–163; nightlife, 184; sights, 174–178; sleeping, 184–185; walking tour, 160–168

Wester Ross: 447–448

West Highland Museum (Fort William): 328

West Highland Railway Line: 332

West Highland Way: 222, 261, 321, 327–328

West Sands (St. Andrews): 232

Whale watching: 275, 300

Whaligoe Steps: 460

Whiski Rooms Shop (Edinburgh): 47, 115–116

Whisky: 530–531, 532–533; making, 530–531; tasting tips, 531; types of, 530; Cardhu, 433–434; Deanston Distillery (Doune), 220; Edinburgh, 74–75, 113–116; Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop, 52, 114–115; Port of Leith Distillery, 103–104; Scotch Whisky Experience, 39, 45, 74; Glasgow, 157–158, 182, 192; Glenfiddich, 411, 430, 432; Glenlivet, 430, 433; Inverness, 389; Kirkwall, 469; Oban, 277; Pitlochry, 414, 417–419; St. Andrews, 248; Skye, 367, 371; Speyside Whisky Trail, 428–434

Whistler, James: 175

White Horse Close (Edinburgh): 53

Wick: 460

Wilkie, David: 97

William Wallace Monument (Stirling): 201, 212–214

Willow Tea Rooms (Glasgow): 160, 169–170, 181, 191–192

WoodWinters: Edinburgh, 116; Stirling, 211

Working Sheepdogs (Leault): 410, 422–423

World’s End (Edinburgh): 52

World’s End Pub (Edinburgh): 136

World War I: 70–71, 313–314, 344, 385, 413, 493–494

World War II: 70–71, 277, 328, 335, 360, 385, 453, 494; Scapa Flow, 476–480

Writers’ Museum (Edinburgh): 39, 46, 76–77

Y

Yesnaby: 476